Plants Used in Cosmetics

A special issue of Cosmetics (ISSN 2079-9284).

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (30 September 2018) | Viewed by 93995

Special Issue Editor

Department of Chemistry and Pharmacy, University of Sassari, 07100 Sassari, Italy
Interests: antimicrobial activity evaluation of plant extracts; buccal formulations; challenge test; cosmetic preservatives; veterinary formulations
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Vegetal extracts and herbs have been used for cosmetic purposes by many civilizations since time immemorial, and plants were, for centuries, the only way to obtain colorants, fragrances and products for soothing and protecting skin. In more recent times, with the development of chemistry and petrochemistry, synthetic raw materials of interest to the cosmetic industry became available in huge quantities and at low price and largely replaced natural extracts and compounds. However, in the last few decades cosmetic ingredients based on plants or plants derivatives have made a powerful comeback, and claims referring to “plant origin”, “natural origin” and “naturally derived”—to name just a few—have become a major trend in the field of beauty. This trend reversal is largely consumer-driven and depends on several reasons; they include the increasing aversion for animal-derived products, ecological concerns and—probably the most important—the large number of myths about the safety of some controversial cosmetic ingredients that in recent times pervaded the media and the net. These health-related allegations involve specific chemicals (being parabens the most debated), and, although there is no conclusive scientific evidence of health risk for these compounds, a rising number of consumers are concerned about them and demand their replacement with natural alternatives, perceived as safer than synthetic products. As a consequence, plant ingredients in cosmetics are continually gaining popularity. Today, it is widely contended that the plant kingdom represents an enormous reservoir of biologically active chemicals, which are widely employed in medicine to treat all kind of illnesses and can also act as functional substances in cosmetic formulations. Products of plant origin used in cosmetics include vegetable oils and other lipids, essential oils used as fragrances or for their antimicrobial activities, ingredients for skincare and hair care, and antioxidants, to name just a few. Nowadays, plant material used to produce cosmetic ingredients comes from a variety of sources, which include not only conventional horticultural production (in field or greenhouse), but also wild harvest in developing countries and biotechnological methods (e.g., tissue cultures, hydroponic systems, fermentation of genetically modified organisms, microalgae cultures). The multiplicity of sources of plant cosmetic ingredients poses many different ethical and scientific issues previously not considered or underestimated, such as sustainability of the supply chain, preservation of biodiversity, improved isolation and extraction techniques, the evaluation of safety of new raw materials, and, finally, the development of innovative formulations.

This Special Issue is dedicated to plants used for the development of cosmetics (both botanical species of traditional use and exotic plants introduced in cosmetics to fulfil market demand), innovative plant-based cosmetic ingredients, and potential cosmetic use of plants traditionally intended for other purposes.

Original research articles and reviews are welcomed and encouraged.

Dr. Claudia Juliano
Guest Editor

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Cosmetics is an international peer-reviewed open access semimonthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 1800 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • Plants
  • Cosmetics
  • Natural ingredients
  • Herbal products

Published Papers (7 papers)

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Research

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12 pages, 1884 KiB  
Article
Herbal Cosmetics Knowledge of Arab-Choa and Kotoko Ethnic Groups in the Semi-Arid Areas of Far North Cameroon: Ethnobotanical Assessment and Phytochemical Review
by Evariste Fongnzossie Fedoung, Tize Zra, Christine Fernande Nyangono Biyegue, Achille Nouga Bissoue, Suzanne Baraye and Nole Tsabang
Cosmetics 2018, 5(2), 31; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics5020031 - 02 May 2018
Cited by 5 | Viewed by 10646
Abstract
The plant-based traditional knowledge of many Cameroonian populations concerning beauty and skin care is still poorly documented, yet they are real resources of innovation and economic development. The aim of this study is to document the indigenous knowledge of Choa Arab and Kotoko [...] Read more.
The plant-based traditional knowledge of many Cameroonian populations concerning beauty and skin care is still poorly documented, yet they are real resources of innovation and economic development. The aim of this study is to document the indigenous knowledge of Choa Arab and Kotoko ethnic group in Kousséri (Far North Region of Cameroon) about plants used for cosmetics. Ethnobotanical data collected among key informants revealed a total of 13 plants species belonging to 12 families used by local people. Canarium schweinfurthii Engl and Santalum album L. obtained the highest frequency of citation. Trees are the most abundant life forms, while barks and seeds are the most frequently used parts. More than 40% of recorded plants are used for skin care. The cosmetic allegations of recorded plants include: dermatology, anti-cancers, antioxidant agent, perfume, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, wounds healing activity, skin lightening, dental caries, astringent and hair care. They all contain various phytochemicals that are of interest in cosmetics. Despite the strong relationship between the Choa Arab and Kotoko people and herbal cosmetic ingredients, these plants are still less investigated for their cosmetic application. The authors urge for the development of sustainable supply chain for plants with potentials as cosmetics, involving local communities in the planning, implementation and monitoring process, following principles of Nagoya protocol on Access and Benefit Sharing. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Plants Used in Cosmetics)
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17 pages, 1633 KiB  
Article
Cosmeceutical Properties of Two Cultivars of Red Raspberry Grown under Different Conditions
by Maria Papaioanou, Evangelia G. Chronopoulou, Gheorghii Ciobotari, Rodica C. Efrose, Liliana Sfichi-Duke, Marianna Chatzikonstantinou, Evangelia Pappa, Ioannis Ganopoulos, Panagiotis Madesis, Irini Nianiou-Obeidat, Taofen Zeng and Nikolaos E. Labrou
Cosmetics 2018, 5(1), 20; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics5010020 - 28 Feb 2018
Cited by 13 | Viewed by 8852
Abstract
Plant selection, input, and field management are proven strategies that produce high yields of crops bearing selected desirable characteristics for the nutraceutical and cosmeceutical industry. This study reports on the effect of substrate and light on selected quantitative and qualitative bioactive properties of [...] Read more.
Plant selection, input, and field management are proven strategies that produce high yields of crops bearing selected desirable characteristics for the nutraceutical and cosmeceutical industry. This study reports on the effect of substrate and light on selected quantitative and qualitative bioactive properties of two cultivars of Rubus idaeus L (‘Ruvi’ and ‘Cayuga’). Our results demonstrated that the quantitative and qualitative fruit characteristics (yield, fruit dimensions, titratable acidity, and total soluble solids contents), plant growth, biosynthesis of secondary metabolites, and total antioxidant capacity, are significantly affected by genotype, light intensity, and substrate type. Fruits from ‘Ruvi’ plants cultivated under low light conditions, on soil/peat substrate exhibited high levels of antioxidant capacity, phenolics, flavonoids, anthocyanins, and high inhibitory potency towards the skin-regulating enzymes tyrosinase and elastase. Extract derived from these fruits was formulated into a topical skin care cream. This cream exhibited excellent compatibility and stability characteristics. Our research concluded that quantity and quality of Rubus idaeus L. fruits could be efficiently managed through conventional agronomic practices. Our project determined the optimal agronomic management practices to produce desirable characteristics and maximize bioactive content that determine the nutraceutical and cosmeceutical quality of the red raspberry. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Plants Used in Cosmetics)
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21 pages, 2352 KiB  
Article
Development of a Natural Anti-Age Ingredient Based on Quercus pubescens Willd. Leaves Extract—A Case Study
by Hortense Plainfossé, Pauline Burger, Stéphane Azoulay, Anne Landreau, Grégory Verger-Dubois and Xavier Fernandez
Cosmetics 2018, 5(1), 15; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics5010015 - 27 Jan 2018
Cited by 12 | Viewed by 10745
Abstract
Consumers pay more and more attention not just to the safety and health aspects of ingredients entering their cosmetics’ formulations, but also to their potency, origin, processing, ethical value and environmental footprint. Sustainability of the supply chain, preservation of biodiversity, as well as [...] Read more.
Consumers pay more and more attention not just to the safety and health aspects of ingredients entering their cosmetics’ formulations, but also to their potency, origin, processing, ethical value and environmental footprint. Sustainability of the supply chain, preservation of biodiversity, as well as greener extraction techniques are hence very popular with consumers. Consumers are primarily concerned by the efficacy of the cosmetic products they use and continuously scrutinize product labels, so marketing arguments need to be based on rigorous testing and reliable results to support claims (anti-age, anti-pollution, etc.) displayed on the product’s packaging. As a result, the increasing demand for natural ingredients with assessed bioactivities has profoundly modified the strategies adopted by cosmetic professionals to innovate in terms of actives. Sourcing and developing new natural cosmetic actives is a long-term procedure that is thoroughly described in the present paper, via the example of the design of both liquid and solid ingredients based on Quercus pubescens Willd. leaves extract, for which anti-age properties were assessed by a combination of in vitro assays. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Plants Used in Cosmetics)
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1155 KiB  
Article
Whitening Agents from Reseda luteola L. and Their Chemical Characterization Using Combination of CPC, UPLC-HRMS and NMR
by Pauline Burger, André Monchot, Olivier Bagarri, Philippe Chiffolleau, Stéphane Azoulay, Xavier Fernandez and Thomas Michel
Cosmetics 2017, 4(4), 51; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics4040051 - 25 Nov 2017
Cited by 3 | Viewed by 7284
Abstract
Skin whitening agents occupy an important part of the dermo-cosmetic market nowadays. They are used to treat various skin pigmentation disorders, or simply to obtain a lighter skin tone. The use of traditional skin bleachers (e.g., hydroquinone, corticoids) is now strictly regulated due [...] Read more.
Skin whitening agents occupy an important part of the dermo-cosmetic market nowadays. They are used to treat various skin pigmentation disorders, or simply to obtain a lighter skin tone. The use of traditional skin bleachers (e.g., hydroquinone, corticoids) is now strictly regulated due to their side effects. When considering this and the growing consumers’ interest for more natural ingredients, plant extracts can be seen as safe and natural alternatives. In this perspective, in vitro bioassays were undertaken to assess cosmetic potential of Reseda luteola, and particularly its promising whitening activities. A bioguided purification procedure employing centrifugal partition chromatography, Ultra Performance Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (UPLC-HRMS) and NMR was developed to isolate and identify the whitening agents (i.e., luteolin and apigenin) from aerial parts of R. luteola. UPLC-HRMS also enabled the characterization of acetylated luteolin- and apigenin-O-glycosides, which occurrence is reported for the first time in R. luteola. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Plants Used in Cosmetics)
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Review

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20 pages, 3518 KiB  
Review
Secondary Plant Metabolites for Sun Protective Cosmetics: From Pre-Selection to Product Formulation
by Liudmila Korkina, Vladimir Kostyuk, Alla Potapovich, Wolfgang Mayer, Nigma Talib and Chiara De Luca
Cosmetics 2018, 5(2), 32; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics5020032 - 02 May 2018
Cited by 26 | Viewed by 11571
Abstract
Topical sun protective cosmetics (sunscreens, pre- and post-sun) have been intensively developed and produced to protect human skin against solar irradiation-associated damages/pathologies. Unfortunately, routine cosmetics for sun protection containing synthetic organic and/or physical sunscreens could exert adverse effects towards human organisms and bring [...] Read more.
Topical sun protective cosmetics (sunscreens, pre- and post-sun) have been intensively developed and produced to protect human skin against solar irradiation-associated damages/pathologies. Unfortunately, routine cosmetics for sun protection containing synthetic organic and/or physical sunscreens could exert adverse effects towards human organisms and bring undesirable ecological changes. Terrestrial and marine plant species, being exposed to sun light for hundreds of millions of years, have evolved two pro-survival strategies: effective protection against/adaptation to its deleterious effects and the use of solar energy for photosynthesis/photo-biochemical reactions. Secondary plant metabolites (SPM) are primary sensors of solar energy and mediators of its use (photo-sensitisers) or neutralisation (photo-protectors). A similar double photo-protective/photo-sensitising system is built in within human skin. Modern development of toxicologically/ecologically safe yet effective sun-protective cosmetics attempts to pre-select photo-stable and non-phototoxic SPMs that provide broad UVA + UVB sunscreen, free radical scavenging and direct antioxidant defence, endogenous antioxidant rescue, induction of antioxidant enzymes (indirect antioxidant defence), and normalisation of metabolic and immune responses to UVA + UVB. Proper formulation of sun protective cosmetics should assure targeted delivery of photo-active SPMs to definite skin layers to invigorate the built in photo-chemical skin barrier. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Plants Used in Cosmetics)
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16 pages, 325 KiB  
Review
A Critical View of Different Botanical, Molecular, and Chemical Techniques Used in Authentication of Plant Materials for Cosmetic Applications
by Samantha Drouet, Laurine Garros, Christophe Hano, Duangjai Tungmunnithum, Sullivan Renouard, Daniel Hagège, Benoit Maunit and Éric Lainé
Cosmetics 2018, 5(2), 30; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics5020030 - 01 May 2018
Cited by 23 | Viewed by 7904
Abstract
A number of approaches can be implemented to ensure plant-based material authentication for cosmetic applications. Doing this requires knowledge and data dealing with botany, molecular biology, and analytical chemistry, the main techniques of which are described here. A comprehensive and critical view of [...] Read more.
A number of approaches can be implemented to ensure plant-based material authentication for cosmetic applications. Doing this requires knowledge and data dealing with botany, molecular biology, and analytical chemistry, the main techniques of which are described here. A comprehensive and critical view of the methods is provided with comments as well as examples of their application domains. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Plants Used in Cosmetics)
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18 pages, 489 KiB  
Review
Cosmetic Functional Ingredients from Botanical Sources for Anti-Pollution Skincare Products
by Claudia Juliano and Giovanni Antonio Magrini
Cosmetics 2018, 5(1), 19; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics5010019 - 06 Feb 2018
Cited by 45 | Viewed by 32392
Abstract
Air pollution is a rising problem in many metropolitan areas around the world. Airborne contaminants are predominantly derived from anthropogenic activities, and include carbon monoxide, sulfur dioxide, nitrogen oxides, volatile organic compounds, ozone and particulate matter (PM; a mixture of solid and liquid [...] Read more.
Air pollution is a rising problem in many metropolitan areas around the world. Airborne contaminants are predominantly derived from anthropogenic activities, and include carbon monoxide, sulfur dioxide, nitrogen oxides, volatile organic compounds, ozone and particulate matter (PM; a mixture of solid and liquid particles of variable size and composition, able to absorb and delivery a large number of pollutants). The exposure to these air pollutants is associated to detrimental effects on human skin, such as premature aging, pigment spot formation, skin rashes and eczema, and can worsen some skin conditions, such as atopic dermatitis. A cosmetic approach to this problem involves the topical application of skincare products containing functional ingredients able to counteract pollution-induced skin damage. Considering that the demand for natural actives is growing in all segments of global cosmetic market, the aim of this review is to describe some commercial cosmetic ingredients obtained from botanical sources able to reduce the impact of air pollutants on human skin with different mechanisms, providing a scientific rationale for their use. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Plants Used in Cosmetics)
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