(a) Artisan textile samples

Ten scarves and shawls from the initial set of 20 used in the two FG discussions were used for the quantitative consumer study. The authors chose a wide range of scarves/shawls representing higher and lower quality based on feedback in the FG. The textiles included in Phase 2 included samples that had various structural differences, design differences, edge finishes, fiber contents, and other variations (Table 1).

**Table 1.** Description and images of the ten scarves and shawls that were used as samples during the quantitative consumer study. **Table 1.** Description and images of the ten scarves and shawls that were used as samples during the quantitative consumer study. **Table 1.** Description and images of the ten scarves and shawls that were used as samples during the quantitative consumer study. **Table 1.** Description and images of the ten scarves and shawls that were used as samples during the

*Textiles* **2021**, *1*, FOR PEER REVIEW 5

*Textiles* **2021**, *1*, FOR PEER REVIEW 5

*Textiles* **2021**, *1*, FOR PEER REVIEW 5


**Table 1.** *Cont. Textiles* **2021**, *1*, FOR PEER REVIEW 6 *Textiles* **2021**, *1*, FOR PEER REVIEW 6 *Textiles* **2021**, *1*, FOR PEER REVIEW 6 *Textiles* **2021**, *1*, FOR PEER REVIEW 6


**Table 1.** *Cont. Textiles* **2021**, *1*, FOR PEER REVIEW 7

#### (b) Consumers (b) Consumers

Women between the ages of 18 and 75 years (includes Generation Z through Baby Boomers) were included. Consumers selected had to have usually purchased their own clothes, had no fabric-related restrictions or allergies, and were available and interested in participating in the study. A total of 196 consumers evaluated the artisan textiles at the Center for Sensory Analysis and Consumer Behavior in Manhattan, KS (USA). Women between the ages of 18 and 75 years (includes Generation Z through Baby Boomers) were included. Consumers selected had to have usually purchased their own clothes, had no fabric-related restrictions or allergies, and were available and interested in participating in the study. A total of 196 consumers evaluated the artisan textiles at the Center for Sensory Analysis and Consumer Behavior in Manhattan, KS (USA).

(c) Questionnaire development (c) Questionnaire development

The study questionnaire included an informed consent statement, demographic (5) questions, a five-point scale question (with anchor points of "very poor" and "excellent") that assessed how participants rated the quality of a scarf or shawl, and a five-point purchase-interest question [30]. The five questions on consumer demographics included questions on age, gender, level of education, and nine-point Likert scales on level of interest in artisan textiles and willingness to purchase natural or organic and environmentally friendly products. A five-point intensity scale that ranged from "does not apply at all" to "applies completely" assessed the degree of applicability for each of the quality statements selected for the quantitative phase for each scarf/shawl. The study questionnaire included an informed consent statement, demographic (5) questions, a five-point scale question (with anchor points of "very poor" and "excellent") that assessed how participants rated the quality of a scarf or shawl, and a five-point purchase-interest question [30]. The five questions on consumer demographics included questions on age, gender, level of education, and nine-point Likert scales on level of interest in artisan textiles and willingness to purchase natural or organic and environmentally friendly products. A five-point intensity scale that ranged from "does not apply at all" to "applies completely" assessed the degree of applicability for each of the quality statements selected for the quantitative phase for each scarf/shawl.

(d) Consumer testing (d) Consumer testing

Consumer testing occurred throughout several sessions at a central location in Manhattan, KS (USA). Up to ten consumers participated in each session. Each participant was given a translucent plastic bin containing a single textile labeled with a three-digit code. Consumers had 3 min to evaluate each sample. After each sample evaluation, research assistants gathered the samples, refolded, and distributed samples again. The testing design was randomized and balanced in a Williams square design such that each participant assessed all 10 samples. Consumer testing occurred throughout several sessions at a central location in Manhattan, KS (USA). Up to ten consumers participated in each session. Each participant was given a translucent plastic bin containing a single textile labeled with a three-digit code. Consumers had 3 min to evaluate each sample. After each sample evaluation, research assistants gathered the samples, refolded, and distributed samples again. The testing design was randomized and balanced in a Williams square design such that each participant assessed all 10 samples.

(e) Textile-Quality Index (e) Textile-Quality Index

A TQI was calculated by adding up the individual scores for each of the six (or eight) key statements that were indicated based on the statistical analysis (Cronbach's alpha). In the case of the six-statement index, the TQI could range from 6 to 30, with 6 indicating extremely poor quality and 30 indicating the highest quality. (f) Statistical analysis A TQI was calculated by adding up the individual scores for each of the six (or eight) key statements that were indicated based on the statistical analysis (Cronbach's alpha). In the case of the six-statement index, the TQI could range from 6 to 30, with 6 indicating extremely poor quality and 30 indicating the highest quality.

Percentage counts were computed for demographic questions on age and education. (f) Statistical analysis

Analysis of variance (ANOVA) was conducted for data collected by each of the different intensity scales. It is worth noting that the data were, in general, normally distributed, and parametric analysis could be used. Computations of unstandardized coefficient alpha (Cronbach's alpha) were used to Percentage counts were computed for demographic questions on age and education. Analysis of variance (ANOVA) was conducted for data collected by each of the different intensity scales. It is worth noting that the data were, in general, normally distributed, and parametric analysis could be used.

assess the internal consistency of the quality statements. Internal validation of the shortlisted statements that were identified by Cronbach's alpha for the consumer-based Computations of unstandardized coefficient alpha (Cronbach's alpha) were used to assess the internal consistency of the quality statements. Internal validation of the

quality scale was conducted using Pearson correlation coefficients. A set of two correla-

shortlisted statements that were identified by Cronbach's alpha for the consumer-based quality scale was conducted using Pearson correlation coefficients. A set of two correlation tests comprised one based on the participants as a whole sample and another where correlations were determined for each participant. These correlation tests assessed the association between a quality score and a Textile-Quality Index (TQI) score. The TQI scores were generated by summing up the individual scores received for each of the quality statements that were recommended by coefficient alpha. Based on the findings from coefficient alpha computations, it would be assumed that the recommended quality statements were found to perform consistently within as a group versus as individual quality parameters. This, then, would imply that by measuring the correlation between the quality score and the TQI, the authors could determine whether the recommended set of statements was indeed assessing, and could be relied on to measure, the quality of artisan clothing by consumer researchers. Indices similar in performance to the TQI have been previously used to internally validate consumer-based scales [41,42]. A Pearson correlation coefficient (R) value of R = 0.55 was used a reference. This meant that for the 196 participants, any R ≥ 0.55 was considered to indicate between a moderate positive and strong positive relationship between that particular participant's quality score and the TQI. Put simply, when that person's score for the TQI increases, their score for quality would also increase. The same can be said for when the overall correlation tests where participants were treated as a whole.

All analyses were run using XLSTAT (version 2020.1, AddinSoft, New York, NY, USA).

#### **3. Results**

#### *3.1. Phase 1—Qualitative Studies (Focus Groups)*

The FGs participants gave 46 high-quality statements (Table 2) and 40 low-quality statements (Table 3). In refining statements from FG1, the FG 2 participants modified some statements. For example, FG 2 replaced "harsh hand-feel" with "rough feel", which the FG 2 participants found to be a more appropriate consumer descriptor for the quality of the scarves and shawls.

**Table 2.** List of 46 high-quality terms/statements for textiles that were generated from the focus groups.



**Table 2.** *Cont.*

The 86 generated statements were reviewed by the authors, and statements that were not directly related to quality, and statements that were ambiguous and/or confusing, were removed, which brought the total list of statements down to 52 statements (Table 4). Some statements were reworded to shorter phrases or words that would be suitable for quantitative consumer testing (but only if the core meaning was maintained).

Items that were considered the same, similar, or opposite to a selected statement and were eliminated.

**Table 3.** A list of 40 low-quality statements for textiles that were generated from the focus groups.


**Table 3.** *Cont.*
