Search Results (11)

This study presents numerical simulations of the Aysén tsunami, which occurred on 21 April 2007. The tsunami was triggered by hundreds of landslides caused by a magnitude 6.2 earthquake. With an estimated wave height of 50 m at the northern tip of the Mentirosa Island, the event resulted in 10 fatalities and the destruction of multiple salmon farms along the fjord. We employed the NHWAVE and FUNWAVE-TVD numerical software to conduct a series of simulations using various landslide configurations and two approaches to model landslide motion: a viscous flow and a solid slide governed by Coulomb friction. The numerical results indicate that the solid landslide model without basal friction provides the most accurate representation of the measured in situ run-up heights and generates the largest inundation areas. Furthermore, the simulation results show that the arrival time of the tsunami waves was approximately 600 s. Our findings indicate that the volume of the landslide is the most critical factor in determining tsunami wave heights. Additionally, the Coulomb friction angle is another significant parameter to consider in the modeling process. Full article

Accurately simulating wave breaking is crucial for modeling hydrodynamics over steep coral reef slopes, yet it remains a challenge for Boussinesq-type models like FUNWAVE-TVD. The model’s standard hybrid breaking mechanism, triggered by a fixed free surface elevation-to-depth ratio ($\eta /d>0.8$), often lacks physical sensitivity to local slope and wave conditions prevalent in reef environments and suffers from inaccuracies associated with using η as a direct proxy for wave height (H). This study introduces and validates a novel, enhanced hybrid breaking module within FUNWAVE-TVD, specifically designed to overcome these limitations on steep slopes. The core novelty lies in the synergistic implementation of two key components: (1) replacing the fixed threshold with a dynamic, physically-based criterion derived from the Modified Goda formula (MGO) by Rattanapitikon and Shibayama, which calculates the breaking wave height ($H_b$) based on local depth, slope, and deep-water wavelength; and (2) developing and applying a practical method, using the wave vertical asymmetry relationship proposed by Yu and Li, to dynamically convert the calculated $H_b$ into an equivalent breaking surface elevation threshold (${\eta }_b$). This derived dynamic threshold (${\eta }_b/d$) is then used to trigger the model’s existing switch from Boussinesq to Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations (NSWE), allowing for energy dissipation via shock-capturing while retaining the physical basis of the MGO criterion. The performance of this enhanced module was rigorously evaluated against five laboratory experiments of regular waves breaking on impermeable slopes ranging from mild (1:10) to extremely steep (1:1), contrasting results with the original FUNWAVE-TVD. The modified model demonstrates significantly improved accuracy (model skill increases ranging from 10.16% to 42.49%) compared to the original model for breaking location and wave height prediction on steeper slopes ($m\ge 1:6$). Conversely, tests on the 1:1 slope confirmed the inherent limitations of the MGO criterion itself under surging breaker conditions ($m\ge 1:2.3$), highlighting the applicability range. This work provides a validated methodology for incorporating slope-aware, dynamic breaking criteria effectively into hybrid Boussinesq models, offering a more robust tool for simulating wave processes on steep reef topographies. Full article

In this study, a Boussinesq-type wave model, namely FUNWAVE-TVD, was employed to explore solitary wave processes over coral atolls in two horizontal dimensions. First, a typical solitary wave propagation process over an idealized atoll in a field scale is simulated and analyzed. Then the effects of reef flat water depth, reef flat width, reef surface roughness, fore-reef slope, and lagoon water depth on the distribution of maximum surface elevations over atolls are investigated. Moreover, the effect of a channel on the reef flat is also studied. It is found that during solitary wave propagation, the coral reefs of an atoll can provide effective shelter for the lagoon inside; however, there will be an area of wave height enhancement near the lagoon edge at the lee side of an atoll. The maximum surface elevations over the entire atoll increase significantly with the rise in reef flat water depth, or reduced reef flat width and reef surface roughness, while the lagoon water depth and fore-reef slope have minimal influence. As the reef flat water depth increases or the reef surface roughness decreases, the extent of the wave height enhancement area at the lee side also undergoes an expansion. The presence of a channel in the reef flat mainly leads to two regions of increased wave height. The more the position of the channel deviates from the front of the atoll, the smaller the increase effect and range of the two regions will be. As the channel width increases, the increase effect and range of the two regions will also increase. Full article

In order to better understand the role of coral reefs around an isolated island in mitigating tsunami hazards, this study performed a horizontally two-dimensional (2DH) numerical study of tsunami-like solitary wave propagation and run-up around an idealized reef-fringed island. The shock-capturing Boussinesq wave model, the FUNWAVE-TVD is used in the present study and well-validated with existing experimental data for its robustness in predicting 2DH solitary wave processes around an island. Based on the validated model, the typical solitary propagation process around the reef-fringed island and the effects of morphological and hydrodynamic parameters on the maximum run-up heights were systematically investigated. It is found that coral reefs can effectively reduce maximum run-up heights around an isolated island. The reef flat’s water depth, reef flat width, and reef surface roughness are the main factors affecting maximum run-up heights around an island, while the fore-reef slope has little impact. For the idealized reef-fringed island in this study, sea-level rise will cause coral reefs to lose their protective capability on the lee side, and the presence of coral reefs may even enhance tsunami hazards around an island when the reef flat width is very narrow or coral bleaching happens. Full article

Coastal inundation has recently started to require significant attention worldwide. The increasing frequency and intensity of extreme events (sea storms, tsunami waves) are highly stressing coastal environments by endangering a large number of residential areas, ecosystems, and tourist facilities, and also leading to potential environmental risks. Predicting such events and the generated coastal flooding is thus of paramount importance and can be accomplished by exploiting the potential of different tools. An example is the combination of remote sensors, like marine radars, with numerical models. Specifically, while instruments like X-band radars are able to precisely reconstruct both wave field and bathymetry up to some kilometers off the coast, wave-resolving Boussinesq-type models can reproduce the wave propagation in the nearshore area and the consequent coastal flooding. Hence, starting from baseline simulations of wave propagation and the conversion of water elevation results into radar images, the present work illustrates the reconstruction of coastal data (wave field and seabed depth) using a specifically suited data processing method, named the “Local Method”, and the use of such coastal data to run numerical simulations of coastal inundation in different scenarios. Such scenarios were built using two different European beaches, i.e., Senigallia (Italy) and Oostende (Belgium), and three different directional spreading values to evaluate the performances in cases of either long- or short-crested waves. Both baseline and inundation simulations were run using the FUNWAVE-TVD solver. The overall validation of the methodology, in terms of maximum inundation, shows its good performance, especially in cases of short-crested wind waves. Furthermore, the application on Oostende Beach demonstrates that the present methodology might work using only open-access tools, providing an easy investigation of coastal inundation and potential low-cost integration into early warning systems. Full article

The presence of wave coherence, which contributes to the inhomogeneity of wave characteristics and significantly affects wave processes over nearshore regions of the Yellow River Delta (YRD), was simulated and analyzed in this study. A phase-resolving Boussinesq-type wave model, FUNWAVE-TVD, was used to simulate waves with desirable coherency effects. Bathymetry and topography data were obtained from the Chinese nautical chart and E.U. Copernicus Marine Service Information. After the model configuration, spatial distributions of the root mean square and significant wave heights, and the maximum cross-shore current velocity and vorticity over the domain with respect to different degrees of wave coherence and energy spectrum discretization were investigated. The results indicate that the complexity of the spatial distribution and magnitude of longshore variations in wave statistics are proportional to the degree of coherence. Waves with higher coherency exhibit more complex variabilities and stronger fluctuations along the longshore direction. The influence of morphological changes on wave height in the YRD was discernible by comparing the results with and without coherency effects. The cross-shore current velocity decreased as the waves moved toward the surf zone, while the vorticity accelerated, indicating a higher shear wave magnitude. The simulated wave dissipates more than 60% (80%) of its energy when it reaches water depths of less than 5 m (2 m) and completely dissipates when it breaks at the shore. Full article

The phenomenon of wave breaking dominates the hydrodynamics of the surf zone. Therefore, numerical modelling of shallow water phenomena requires a proper reproduction of the wave breaking mechanism. In this study, we analyze the ability of two open-source Boussinesq-type models, Celeris and FUNWAVE-TVD (Total Variation Diminishing version), to correctly reproduce wave breaking. The main aim is to obtain aware tools for numerical modelling of surf zone hydrodynamics. The results are compared with physical model tests and Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) numerical modelling. Full article

Tsunamis are among the deadliest threats to coastal areas as reminded by the recent tragic events in the Indian Ocean in 2004 and in Japan in 2011. A large number of tropical islands are indeed exposed due to their proximity to potential tsunami sources in tectonic subduction zones. For these territories, assessing tsunamis’ impact is of major concern for early warning systems and management plans. The effectiveness of inundation predictions relies, among other things, on processes engaged at the scale of the local bathymetry and topography. As part of the project C3AF that aimed to study the consequences of climate change on the French West Indies, we used the numerical model SCHISM to simulate the propagation of several potential tsunamis as well as their impacts on the Guadeloupe islands (French West Indies). Working from the findings of the most recent studies, we used the simulations of four scenarios of collapse of the Cumbre Vieja volcano in La Palma, Canary islands. We then used FUNWAVE-TVD to simulate trans-Atlantic wave propagation until they reached the Guadeloupe archipelago where we used SCHISM to assess their final impact. Inundation is quantified for the whole archipelago and detailed for the most exposed areas. Finally, in a climate change perspective, inundation is compared for different sea levels and degrees of vegetation cover deterioration using modified friction coefficients. We then discuss the results showing that climate change-related factors would amplify the impact more in the case of smaller inundation along with model limitations and assumptions. Full article

Industry-specific tools for analyzing and optimizing the design of wave energy converters (WECs) and associated power systems are essential to advancing marine renewable energy. This study aims to quantify the influence of phase information on the device power output of a virtual WEC array. We run the phase-resolving wave model FUNWAVE-TVD (Total Variation Diminishing) to generate directional waves at the PacWave South site offshore from Newport, Oregon, where future WECs are expected to be installed for testing. The two broad cases presented correspond to mean wave climates during warm months (March–August) and cold months (September–February). FUNWAVE-TVD time series of sea-surface elevation are then used in WEC-Sim, a time domain numerical model, to simulate the hydrodynamic response of each device in the array and estimate their power output. For comparison, WEC-Sim is also run with wave energy spectra calculated from the FUNWAVE-TVD simulations, which do not retain phase information, and with wave spectra computed using the phase-averaged model Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN). The use of spectral data in WEC-Sim requires a conversion from frequency to time domain by means of random superposition of wave components, which are not necessarily consistent because of the linear assumption implicit in this method. Thus, power response is characterized by multiple realizations of the wave climates. Full article

This study utilized a shock-capturing Boussinesq model FUNWAVE-TVD to investigate the maximum momentum flux in the solitary wave run-up zone over back-reef slopes. Validation results of the present model were compared to the previous version of FUNWAVE using the eddy viscosity breaking model to demonstrate the advantages of the shock-capturing method in predicting the breaking solitary wave transformation and run-up over fringing reefs. A series of numerical experiments was designed comprehensively and performed then to obtain a new formulation for the envelope of the spatial distribution of the maximum momentum flux within the solitary wave run-up zone over back-reef beaches, which is different from the one used over uniformly-sloping beaches. Finally, the effects of the variation of reef parameters (i.e., the fore-reef slope angle, reef flat width, and water depth over the reef flat) on the maximum momentum flux at the initial shoreline were investigated to better understand the role of fringing reefs in the mitigation of tsunami hazard. Full article

Broken wave characteristics in front of a vertical seawall were modeled and studied using a shock-capturing Boussinesq wave model FUNWAVE-TVD. Validation with the experimental data confirmed the capability of FUNWAVE-TVD in predicting the wave characteristics via the shock-capturing method. Compared to the results obtained from the Boussinesq model coupled with an empirical breaking model, the advantage of the present shock-capturing model for the broken waves near a vertical seawall was clearly revealed. A preliminary investigation of the effects of the key parameters, such as the incident wave height, water level at the seawall, and seabed slope, on the wave kinematics (i.e., the root mean square of the surface fluctuations and depth-averaged horizontal velocity) near the seawall was then conducted through a series of numerical experiments. The numerical results indicate the incident wave height and the water depth at the seawall are the important parameters in determining the magnitude of the wave kinematics, while the effect of the seabed slope seems to be insignificant. The role of the breaking point locations is also highlighted in this study, in which case further breaking can reduce the wave kinematics significantly for the coastal structures predominately subjected to broken waves. Full article