Search Results (123)

The ecological transition of the cosmetics industry emphasizes the need for sustainable formulations based on natural raw materials without compromising efficacy. Anti-aging skincare is a major cosmetic application, as skin aging can be accelerated by oxidative stress and extracellular matrix degradation mediated by enzymes. In this context, identifying natural ingredients with antioxidant and enzyme-modulating properties is of increasing interest. Prosopis cineraria (Ghaf), the national plant of the United Arab Emirates, thrives in arid environments and is hypothesized to produce bioactive secondary metabolites. Ghaf extract was evaluated for its antioxidant potential and enzyme-modulating properties relevant to skin aging. Chemical profiling (UHPLC–DAD–HRMS/MS) revealed a polyphenol-rich composition dominated by catechins and flavonoid derivatives. The extract exhibited exceptionally high radical scavenging activity in the DPPH, ABTS and ORAC assays and showed a strong correlation with its elevated total phenolic content. In addition to antioxidant effects, Ghaf extract demonstrated biologically relevant inhibition of elastase, hyaluronidase, tyrosinase and collagenase, skin-aging-related enzymes involved in extracellular matrix degradation and pigmentation. These combined in vitro activities suggest that Ghaf extract may represent a multifunctional natural ingredient for future dermocosmetic applications. Accordingly, preliminary Pickering emulsions containing the extract were formulated and characterized to demonstrate the technological feasibility of its incorporation into a topical cosmetic vehicle. These findings warrant future studies aimed at evaluating the efficacy of Ghaf-containing formulations in cellular, ex vivo and in vivo skin models. Full article

Skin aging is a central focus of skin health. Supramolecular chemistry has emerged as a powerful strategy for enhancing the performance of cosmetic active ingredients. Adenosine is a promising anti-aging ingredient in skincare products, but its cosmetic application is limited by poor water solubility and low skin penetration. This study developed a supramolecular complex combining adenosine with ectoine through cocrystallization. The supramolecular assembly was characterized by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and thermogravimetric analysis (TGA). Powder X-ray diffraction (PXRD), Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and density functional theory (DFT) calculations revealed extensive hydrogen-bonding networks between the components. The optimal supramolecular composition (1:1.5 molar ratio) achieved a 5.5-fold increase in water solubility. The supramolecular organization enhanced skin permeability by 3.1-fold in ex vivo porcine skin models. In fibroblast cell models, the supramolecular system exhibited superior antioxidant activity with 30.3% greater reactive oxygen species (ROS) reduction and restored cellular adenosine triphosphate (ATP) levels by 2.1-fold under H₂O₂-induced oxidative stress compared to individual components. These findings demonstrate that the adenosine–ectoine supramolecular complex represents an innovative multifunctional ingredient for basic anti-aging cosmetics, offering enhanced delivery, improved safety, and superior biological efficacy through supramolecular engineering. Full article

Fruit tree leaves are an abundant agro-waste material with promising yet underexplored biological potential. This study compared the biological activity of aqueous extracts obtained from apple (Malus domestica), apricot (Prunus armeniaca), and cherry (Prunus cerasus) leaves and their kombucha-fermented counterparts in the context of cosmetic and dermatological applications. Phytochemical composition before and after fermentation was analyzed chromatographically. Antioxidant activity was evaluated using DPPH, ABTS, and FRAP assays, while intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) levels in keratinocytes and fibroblasts were assessed using the H₂DCFDA probe. Cytotoxicity was determined by Alamar Blue and Neutral Red assays. Antimicrobial activity against seven bacterial strains was investigated using minimum inhibitory concentration and disc diffusion methods. Anti-inflammatory activity was evaluated in LPS-stimulated THP-1 cells by measuring TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL-6 levels using ELISA. The influence of the samples on collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase activity was also analyzed. Fermentation increased the content of selected phenolic compounds and enhanced antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and anti-ageing properties. Ferments more effectively reduced oxidative stress in skin cells and showed no cytotoxicity within the tested concentration range. These findings indicate that kombucha fermentation may support the valorization of fruit tree leaf agro-waste as multifunctional ingredients for skincare formulations. Full article

The demand for naturally derived ingredients in cosmetics is constantly growing, with marine algae emerging as promising candidates due to their rich antioxidant and protective metabolites. Skin aging, driven by oxidative stress, impaired hydration, and weakening of the dermal–epidermal junction (DEJ), manifests as dryness, loss of elasticity, and reduced density. Conventional synthetic antioxidants raise safety concerns, highlighting the need for effective natural alternatives. Ecklonia cava, an edible brown seaweed abundant in phlorotannins, has been reported to possess strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, yet its effects on key molecular markers of hydration and DEJ integrity remain underexplored. In this study, we standardized an E. cava extract (ECE) and evaluated its antioxidant activity, gene regulatory effects, and clinical efficacy. ECE was standardized by measuring total polyphenols and flavonoids, evaluated by DPPH scavenging assay, and shown to upregulate DEJ-related genes, reinforcing dermal–epidermal cohesion. A randomized clinical trial further confirmed that topical application of ECE improved hydration, elasticity, and density compared with placebo, with benefits evident within weeks. Collectively, these findings establish ECE as a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient capable of protecting the skin while enhancing structural and functional aspects of skin health, supporting its potential application in anti-aging skincare. Full article

Extracted from Ganoderma lucidum mycelium, the developed β-1,3;1,6-glucan rich polysaccharides have the potential to be used during the industrial production of health food products due to their inhibition of metabolic syndrome, immunomodulatory and antitumor activities and other health benefits. Ganoderma active polysaccharides (GAP) have also been found to promote skin health, particularly due to their antioxidant and anti-aging properties. The present study investigates the skin-protective properties of polysaccharides purified from Ganoderma mycelium cultivated using stress-tolerance technology and a fully plant-based medium. The effects of the GAP are investigated in both in vitro and human studies. The results of the study indicate that the developed GAP effectively inhibit 32.4% of tyrosinase activity and 30.6% of melanin production in B16F10 cells. Furthermore, in scratch assays using NIH 3T3 cells, these GAP also promote cell migration and wound healing. In human studies, GAP demonstrated no potential for skin irritation while effectively reducing skin wrinkles, enhancing skin brightness, diminishing erythema, and increasing epidermal hydration. In hot-flux patch-induced erythema experiments, these GAP were found to be capable of alleviating erythema severity by up to 48%. The present study demonstrates that GAP, which can be produced industrially using innovative technologies and is rich in highly water-soluble β-1,3;1,6-glucan with a triple-helix structure, holds potential for application in the skincare industry. Full article

Exosomes are revolutionizing skincare as natural messengers for cell communication, yet their transition into cosmetics is often limited by the ethical and regulatory hurdles of their animal or human sourcing. This study describes the development and validation of vegan exosome-like biomimetic vesicles (EBVs) generated from the microalgae Chlamydomonas reinhardtii that reproduce the structural and functional logic of mammalian exosomes. Their structural biomimetism was confirmed through physical, lipidomic, and proteomic characterizations, revealing bilamellar vesicles (average diameter ~160 nm) containing 109 membrane lipids and 1369 proteins. Their functional biomimetism was assessed via 3′ mRNA sequencing, which showed that the EBVs induced transcriptional responses in human fibroblasts functionally analogous to human-derived exosomes in matrix-remodeling and anti-aging pathways. In vitro, the EBVs showed a 166.7% higher dermal delivery bias than standard liposomes and accelerated wound healing. Ex vivo, 2% EBVs protected skin explants against UV-A stress, showing 92% protective efficacy for excessive melanin production upon oxidative stress. Furthermore, the EBVs supported hair follicle anagen markers and follicle stem cell metabolism, significantly upregulating SOX9 (p = 0.0022). A 56-day placebo-controlled clinical study confirmed significant improvements in wrinkle depth (−12.2%), elasticity (+4.9%), and radiance (+20.0%). These results position EBVs as a scalable, high-performance alternative for next-generation anti-aging cosmetic applications. Full article

In order to enhance the value and stability of vegetable oils, they may be enriched with essential oils and plant extracts with strong antioxidant activity, yielding innovative formulations with potential applications in skincare. The present research aims to investigate the bioactive properties of an Usnea barbata extract in Jojoba oil (JO) enriched with 5% Peppermint oil (PEO), and 10% vitamin E (PJO). The oil extract (UBPJO) was obtained through cold maceration. The UBPJO antioxidant activity was investigated using ABTS (2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid)) and DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl)-based methods. The sunscreen capacity of UBPJO was evaluated by measuring their sun protection factor (SPF) values. The antimicrobial potential was investigated against S. aureus, E. coli, and C. albicans. The antioxidant activity of UBPJO was 1.5 times higher than that of PJO. Consequently, the sunscreen efficacy (assessed by SPF measurements) indicated satisfactory UVB protection abilities against S. aureus (UBPJO vs. PJO: 32.41 vs. 30.58). UBPJO exhibited significantly greater inhibitory effects compared to PJO against S. aureus (MIC = 18.75 ± 6.25 vs. 37.50 ± 0.00, p < 0.05). and C. albicans (9.62 ± 2.87 vs. 37.5 ± 12.5, p < 0.05). The bioactive properties investigated in the present study support the inclusion of UBPJO in various skin protective formulations with antiaging, antibacterial, and antifungal effects. Full article

Background: Effective anti-aging requires dual strategies to stimulate regeneration and counteract damage. While the combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) and carnosine (CA) holds great promise, their effectiveness is hampered by instability and poor skin penetration. Methods: To overcome these challenges, this study developed HPR and CA co-encapsulated nanoliposomes (HC-NLPs) via high-pressure homogenization as an advanced epidermal/dermal delivery system. Results: HC-NLPs markedly improved skin retention of HPR (58.97%) and CA (111.36%) compared to the free combination (Free-HC). In cellular studies, HC-NLPs displayed excellent biocompatibility and demonstrated a 4.7-fold higher cellular uptake. This led to enhanced proliferative (EdU positive rate increased by 78.32%) and migratory (wound closure improved by 31.5%) capacities. Moreover, HC-NLPs effectively reinforced multiple skin-protective processes associated with aging, including enhanced resistance to oxidative and glycation-induced damage, suppressed inflammatory responses, and strengthened cellular barrier integrity. In 3D skin models, HC-NLPs promoted collagen deposition and improved tissue morphology compared to Free-HC. Their superior in vivo antioxidant and anti-aging effects were further validated in Zebrafish assays. HC-NLPs effectively co-deliver HPR and CA, markedly improving their stability, skin penetration, and cellular internalization. Conclusions: The formulation demonstrates comprehensive pro-regenerative, anti-inflammatory, antioxidative, and anti-glycation effects, representing a promising nano-delivery strategy for advanced anti-aging skincare. Full article

Kalanchoe daigremontiana, a succulent herbaceous plant in the Crassulaceae family from Madagascar, has gained global popularity as an ornamental and medicinal species. This review examines the traditional uses, phytochemical composition, biological properties, toxicological aspects, and regulatory challenges of K. daigremontiana. The traditional medicinal uses of its leaves and roots include treating burns, rheumatic disorders, hypertension, diabetes, kidney pain, diarrhea, cough, fever, gastric issues, anxiety, inflammation, and cancer. Chemical compounds identified include phenolic acids, flavonoids, tannins, alkaloids, glycosides, saponins, sterols, terpenes, and fatty acids, with phenolic compounds and bufadienolides being predominant. In vitro studies of the crude extracts, bufadienolide-rich fractions, and isolated compounds have shown antioxidant, antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral, antiparasitic, anthelmintic, anti-inflammatory, anticoagulant, anti-aging, cytotoxic, antitumoral, and antiproliferative properties. In vivo studies have demonstrated hepatoprotective, skincare, and cardiac-glycoside-like effects. While crude extracts and bufadienolide-rich fractions have shown toxic effects in 2-week-old chicks, guinea pigs, and Artemia salina, no toxicity has been reported in goats, broiler chickens, laying hens, or human erythrocytes. Although K. daigremontiana-based products are commercially available as dietary supplements with various health claims, these lack scientific validation. Despite the potential pharmaceutical applications of K. daigremontiana, further research is needed to determine its effects, dosage, mechanisms, long-term safety, and side effects, with clinical studies essential to validate its therapeutic potential. Full article

Background/Objectives: Retinoids are the gold standard for topical anti-aging treatments; however, their application is frequently limited by skin irritation and poor tolerability, particularly in sensitive or aged populations. Consequently, there is a growing demand for plant-based alternatives that offer comparable efficacy with an improved safety profile. The present study aims to explore the effects of rosemary aqueous extract (RE) on skin aging and its potential as a safe and effective alternative to retinol. Methods: Comparative RNA sequencing was employed to analyze the transcriptomic profiles of RE and retinol in human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). Efficacy of collagen synthesis was evaluated using in vitro 2D and 3D skin models. As aging is associated with chronic inflammation, the responses of HDFs from young versus elderly donors under chronic IL-1β stimulation were compared, and a novel inflammaging model combining repetitive UVA irradiation with chronic cytokine (IL-1β and TNF-α) stimulation was utilized. Potential for neurogenic irritation was assessed by measuring transient receptor potential vanilloid subtype 1 (TRPV1) expression in SH-SY5Y neuronal cells. Results: RE was revealed to regulate gene expression in a pattern analogous to retinol, while also modulating distinct pathways related to wound healing and oxidative stress. RE not only enhanced collagen I synthesis but also protected against UVA-induced damage by preserving epidermal thickness, restoring the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ), and reducing inflammation. Furthermore, RE demonstrated protective effects in the inflammaging model, effectively countering the synergistic damage caused by combined intrinsic and extrinsic stressors. Notably, RE downregulated TRPV1 expression in SH-SY5Y cells, suggesting a potential of reducing skin itching sensation. Conclusions: These findings position RE as a multifaceted anti-aging ingredient that not only represents a promising candidate for a retinol alternative, but also in the context of inflammaging and sensitive skin conditions, highlighting its potential impact on the future of anti-aging skincare. Full article

Chronic ultraviolet (UV) exposure disrupts dermal collagen homeostasis and accelerates skin aging. This study evaluated the protective effects of black ginseng extract (BGE) against UV-induced photoaging in human dermal fibroblasts. BGE restored collagen-related markers, including COL5A1 and COL7A1, improved fibroblast proliferative capacity, and reduced senescence-associated changes under UV stress. Data-independent acquisition (DIA) proteomics identified broad pathway modulation by BGE, involving extracellular matrix remodeling, chromatin organization, and stress-response processes. To validate genome maintenance-related signals highlighted by proteomics, qPCR showed that BGE increased telomere/replication-associated genes compared with the UV group, including POT1 (2.29-fold) and ORC1 (6.70-fold). In addition, comet assay imaging indicated reduced UV-associated DNA damage features following BGE treatment. Overall, these findings indicate that BGE mitigates UV-induced photoaging phenotypes in fibroblasts, with collagen-related recovery and multi-level protective responses, supporting its potential as a natural bioactive ingredient for anti-photoaging skincare applications. Full article

In recent years, active monomers derived from Chinese herbal medicine and their derivatives have attracted significant attention in the field of skincare product development. Artemisinin and its derivatives, including dihydroartemisinin (DHA), exhibit diverse pharmacological activities such as anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, immunomodulatory, and antitumor effects, showing promising therapeutic potential in skin-related diseases. However, systematic studies on artemisinins in cosmetics are lacking. This study aimed to evaluate the cosmetic potential of DHA by investigating its anti-aging, anti-hair loss, antibacterial, whitening, and anti-glycation activities. Results showed that DHA exhibits multiple biological activities: DHA exhibits anti-aging activity by promoting collagen I synthesis in HDF cell, exhibits anti-hair loss effect by modulating VEGF and DKK1 expression in DPC cell, exhibits antibacterial activity against Malassezia furfur, exhibits whitening activity by suppressing melanin synthesis, and exhibits anti-glycation activity by suppressing glycation reactions. Overall, with the broad biological activities, we believe that DHA holds encouraging promise in the cosmetics industry. Full article

Intrinsic aging and external stimuli such as UV exposure contribute to heightened MMP-1 expression, leading to collagen deterioration and weakening of the skin’s structural framework, hallmarks of aging tissue. Peucedanum japonicum, a plant consumed in East Asia, contains antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compounds, but its effects on skin aging remain unclear. This study profiled six major bioactive compounds in P. japonicum leaves and roots and evaluated their protective effects in TNF-α-stimulated human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs). Phytochemical profiles were determined, and biological activity was evaluated by measuring intracellular ROS, MMP-1 secretion, and COL1A1 expression. Both leaf and root extracts exhibited antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity, with leaves generally showing stronger effects. Among the six compounds, chlorogenic acid (1) demonstrated the most potent activity. It markedly decreased intracellular ROS, suppressed MMP-1 secretion, and enhanced COL1A1 expression in TNF-α-stimulated NHDFs, indicating protection against inflammation-induced collagen degradation. These findings suggest that P. japonicum, particularly its chlorogenic acid (1) content, may be a promising natural resource for anti-aging skincare and therapies targeting inflammation-associated skin damage. Full article

Arthrospira platensis (commonly known as Spirulina platensis) is a blue-green microalga increasingly used in skincare due to its antioxidant and dermo-protective properties, primarily attributed to components such as phycocyanin and carotenoids. However, the intense blue color of phycocyanin can limit its cosmetic appeal. In this study, we investigated the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, skin lightening and photoprotective activity of Elixspir^®, a novel light-colored aqueous extract of Spirulina, using both 2D and 3D skin cell models. We demonstrated that Elixspir^® exerts strong antioxidant and cytoprotective effects by reducing intracellular ROS levels and modulating cellular thiol redox state. Its anti-pigmentation potential was supported by tyrosinase inhibition, while anti-inflammatory activity was principally due to ability to reduce PGE2 levels. Finally, we demonstrated an unprecedented photoprotective effect of Elixspir^®, highlighting its potential as a novel active ingredient for skin defense against environmental stressors. Overall, these results provide a molecular-level understanding of Elixspir^® multifunctional bioactivity and support its application as a skin-lightening, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and photoprotective ingredient in the formulation of innovative skin anti-aging treatments. Full article

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated by ultraviolet (UV) radiation accelerate skin aging by activating matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) signaling pathways. Therefore, antioxidants that can suppress ROS generation and downstream signaling cascades are considered promising anti-aging agents. In this study, five methoxyflavones were isolated from Kaempferia parviflora (black ginger) rhizomes—5,7,3′,4′-tetramethoxyflavone (1), 3,5,7,4′-tetramethoxyflavone (2), 5,7,4′-trimethoxyflavone (3), 3,5,7,3′,4′-pentamethoxyflavone (4), and 5,7-dimethoxyflavone (5)—using LC–MS-guided fractionation and identified via NMR and LC–MS analysis. Their biological activities were evaluated in tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α)-stimulated normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs). All methoxyflavones, except compound 3, significantly suppressed TNF-α-induced ROS generation, while compounds 3–5 markedly reduced MMP-1 secretion. Among them, compounds 4 and 5 exerted the strongest protective effects by modulating distinct MAPK pathways: compound 4 selectively inhibited p38 phosphorylation, whereas compound 5 selectively suppressed ERK phosphorylation. Both compounds attenuated ECM degradation and enhanced antioxidant defenses in a concentration-dependent manner. Collectively, these findings highlight the mechanistic significance of methoxyflavones 4 and 5 as dual-acting antioxidant and ECM-protective agents that counteract skin aging through selective regulation of MAPK signaling. Their potential as natural anti-photoaging ingredients warrants further validation in in vivo models and clinical studies for future skincare applications. Full article