Search Results (157)

The textile and clothing industry exerts a significant environmental impact in the EU, contributing heavily to water, land, and resource depletion, with waste generation expected to rise sharply due to fast fashion trends. Accelerating circularity and closed-loop production is critical to reduce the sector’s ecological footprint. This study investigates newer approaches for the removal of indigo prints from cotton (CO) and polyester (PES) textiles using aqueous-based solutions and/or ozone treatment. Aqueous alkaline solutions containing reducing agents and surfactants were evaluated, as well as dry and wet ozone treatments. The efficacy of colour removal was assessed via spectrophotometric analysis [colour strength (K/S) and colour difference (ΔE)] and the fabrics were tested for dimensional stability and tensile strength before and after treatment. Results reveal that surfactant-assisted aqueous treatments enable effective pigment removal and maintain textile properties, supporting subsequent reprinting for textile upcycling. Wet ozone treatment also promoted substantial decolourisation, particularly in cellulosic substrates. Although PES samples exhibited better mechanical resistance, they revealed limited pigment extraction upon ozone treatment. These findings demonstrate the potential of chemical treatments using aqueous-based solutions and surfactants for circular textile applications, facilitating pigment removal without compromising substrate integrity, and boosting the upcycling. Full article

The development of bio-based inks represents a promising strategy to reduce the environmental impact of digital printing technologies. This study investigates the formulation and performance of water-based inks incorporating two renewable pigments: a fermentation-derived indigo pigment and a plant-extracted yellow pigment. Special attention was given to dispersion optimization of the poorly water-soluble indigo pigment. Extended mechanical dispersion (115 h in a ball mill) proved critical to achieve colloidal stability, enabling the preparation of inks that met standard rheological and physicochemical criteria for inkjet printing with piezoelectric printheads. Both inks were applied on a variety of substrates, including cotton, polyester, leather, and kraft paper, pre-treated, in the case of the textiles, with either a cationic biopolymer or a synthetic polyurethane-based binder. Colorimetric evaluation confirmed effective deposition and uniformity, with the indigo ink producing deep blue hues and superior overall fastness than the yellow ink, particularly in washing and rubbing tests. The yellow pigment ink showed good stability but once applied to the fabric, the resulting print exhibited poor fastness, particularly against light exposure, indicating limited durability of the coloration on the textile. Shelf-life analysis of the indigo ink revealed a decline in viscosity and surface tension over time, though the colour and particle size remained stable, particularly under room temperature conditions. These findings confirm the potential of fermentation-derived indigo as a robust bio-based alternative to synthetic dyes and its superior performance in relation to other nature extracted pigments, which, although facilitating ink preparation due to their higher water solubility, result in lower-fastness prints. Full article

In this study, the interfacial phenomena of cotton/polyester blended fabric modified with enzymes and chitosan were investigated. Enzymatic pretreatments (bioactivation) were carried out using a pectinase complex (Biosol PRO), an esterase complex (Texazym PES), and a combination of both. Bioactivation aimed to activate the surface and improve interfacial properties, primarily the hydrophilicity of the polyester component in the blend. For the functionalization of bio-activated blended fabrics, a homogenized chitosan solution in a 3% acetic acid was prepared and applied in a pad–dry–cure process. Changes after enzyme bioactivation, chitosan functionalization, and three washing cycles were monitored by interfacial phenomena—including zeta potential, isoelectric point (IEP), specific surface charge, and contact angle, as well as wetting time and maximum wetted radius—measured using a Moisture Management Tester (MMT). Mechanical and spectral properties of fabrics and antimicrobial efficacy were determined as well. Although esterase and pectinase act on different components of the fabric, both contribute to improved fabric properties, especially when used together. The presence of chitosan on the fabric after three washing cycles was confirmed on enzyme-bioactivated fabrics by zeta potential, IEP, and specific surface charge. The antimicrobial activity was confirmed as well. The best results were obtained after functionalization with chitosan on the esterase-bioactivated surface. Overall, these treatments provide flexible and mechanically stable functionalization, demonstrating both antimicrobial effectiveness and washing stability, with the possibility of easy implementation in the textile industry. Full article

Scalable halogen-free flame-retardant textile finishes remain challenging, particularly regarding laundering durability and industrially viable processing. Here, two phytate flame retardants, poly(vinylammonium) phytate (PVAmPA, partly bio-based) and chitosan phytate (ChiPA, fully bio-based), were applied to cotton (CO), polyester (PET), and a CO/PET blend by a single-step, binder-assisted coating. Both coatings suppressed surface flaming in ISO 15025 on all substrates. Although laundering at 40 °C caused systematically higher wash-off for ChiPA, surface flame suppression was retained for most coated fabrics, with the exception of ChiPA on CO and PVAmPA on PET. Thermogravimetric analysis showed earlier decomposition and increased residue formation for both systems, with the residue at 700 °C increasing from 4.5% to 18.2% for CO_PVAmPA and from 4.5% to 15.2% for CO_ChiPA. In microscale combustion calorimetry, PVAmPA reduced the heat release capacity (HRC) from 251 to 168 J/(g·K) for CO/PET, whereas ChiPA showed its strongest effect on PET, reducing HRC from 413 to 222 J/(g·K). Gas-phase analyses indicated enhanced water release for both coatings and additional NH₃ evolution for PVAmPA. Overall, binder-assisted, single-step phytate coatings provide a scalable route to halogen-free flame retardancy, with PVAmPA showing the most robust overall durability and ChiPA offering a fully bio-based alternative with strong substrate-dependent performance. Full article

Conductive thread is an integral aspect of smart textiles in the domain of electronic textiles (e-textiles). This study unveils the development of twelve distinct variants of conductive threads using the twisting method: the fusion of copper filament with cotton and polyester threads. The threads are coated with a carbon paste solution enriched with dissolved sea salt. The carbon paste is obtained from non-functional dry cell batteries, conventionally categorized as hazardous electronic waste (e-waste), which underscores an economically viable and environmentally sustainable approach. Experiments proved that each variant demonstrates minimal electrical resistance. The lowest resistance, 0.0164 ± 0.0001 Ω/cm, was achieved by Carbon-Coated Cotton Twisted Copper Thread-II. Comparative evaluation with commercially available conductive threads, including Bekaert Bekinox^® VN type (12/1x275/100z), indicated comparable or moderately lower resistance values for the developed copper-based threads. Mechanical–electrical stability under bending, twisting, and wash–dry cycles confirmed consistent conductive performance with minimal resistance variation. Practical demonstrations further validated the integration of the threads into fabric-based flexible circuits and wearable electronic systems. These findings demonstrate that twisted copper-based conductive threads derived from sustainable coating materials provide a promising alternative for smart textile and wearable electronic applications. Future research should focus on scalable fabrication, enhanced coating fixation, and long-term durability assessment. Full article

Textile-to-textile recycling is increasingly recognised as essential to reduce the environmental footprint of the textile sector, yet fibre-to-fibre routes remain constrained by complex composition of fibre blends, chemical finishes and the degradation of fibre quality during repeated processing. This review provides a comprehensive overview of recycling strategies for major textile fibres, cotton, polyester, viscose, polyamide, and wool, from a fibre-level perspective, highlighting the relationships between fibre chemistry, structure, and recyclability. Mechanical, chemical, and biological recycling routes are analysed with a particular focus on fibre integrity, yarn and fabric performance, and their suitability for industrial textile applications rather than solely on waste management aspects. The review also examines industrial initiatives and emerging technologies driving the transition towards circular textile systems, critically identifying key barriers such as feedstock heterogeneity, fibre blending, and downcycling. Building on existing review articles on textile recycling, this work synthesises current knowledge on fibre-to-fibre routes, compares different process options in terms of recycled-fibre quality and scalability, and highlights remaining technological and implementation gaps. To advance textile circularity, integrated recycling frameworks are proposed that align material design, process optimisation, and policy instruments. This work contributes a cross-disciplinary understanding of how fibre-level innovation can enable resource-efficient, closed-loop textile production, offering a roadmap for future sustainable materials engineering in industrial textile systems. Full article

A method for simultaneous classification of fabric material and color based on hyperspectral imaging and visual detection is proposed. Fabric material classification is performed using hyperspectral imaging (HSI) combined with a one-dimensional convolutional neural network (1D-CNN), while fabric color recognition is achieved using an red-green-blue (RGB) camera and a color classification model. Material and color features from the same fabric sample are matched to realize synchronous classification. Experiments were conducted on three fabric materials (cotton, polyester, and cotton–polyester blend) and eight colors. At a conveyor speed of 1 m/s, the sorting success rates reach 95.0% for cotton, 97.5% for polyester, and 85.0% for cotton–polyester blended fabrics. The proposed method demonstrates reliable performance for single-material fabrics and good industrial applicability for automated fabric sorting. Full article

The construction sector faces increasing pressure to reduce the embodied energy of building materials while valorizing industrial waste streams. This study evaluates the direct incorporation of post-industrial textile waste (100% cotton and cotton–polyester blends) in its native form to develop high-performance cementitious ceiling sheets. Composites were fabricated under a controlled hydraulic compaction pressure of 2.0 MPa, optimized to achieve matrix densification while preserving the integrity of the fibrous network. Viscoelastic recovery of the compressed fibers induced a hierarchical double-porosity architecture characterized by macro-voids and hollow fiber lumens. This microstructural evolution reduced thermal conductivity to 0.091 W/m·K, approximately 50% lower than commercial cement–fiber benchmarks—without compromising mechanical compliance. Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) revealed a mechanistic decoupling between water absorption and dimensional stability. Although the CP15 formulation (15 wt.% cotton–polyester) exhibited high moisture uptake (~21%), thickness swelling remained limited to 1.35%. This dimensional stability is attributed to the hydrophobic polyester framework, which bridges microcracks and constrains hygroscopic expansion within the cellulosic phase. The optimized CP15 composite achieved a Modulus of Rupture (MOR) of 8.75 MPa, exceeding ISO 8336 Category C, Class 2 requirements. Despite increased thickness, the areal density (10.84 kg/m²) remains compatible with standard gypsum-grade suspension systems, eliminating the need for structural modification. These findings establish a scalable, direct-valorization strategy for circular construction materials delivering enhanced thermal insulation and robust performance under tropical climatic conditions. Full article

Functional polymers are designed to enhance the evaporative cooling capacity of sports clothing ensembles, though little is known about how they alter the material properties of commonly used fabrics. The aim of this study was to quantify the impact of a commercially available textile finish treatment (HeiQ Smart Temp ^TM) on the structural, thermal, and moisture management properties of synthetic (SYN; 100% polyester) and blended (BLEND; 47% lyocell, 46% cotton, 7% elastane) fabrics. Structural (fabric mass, thickness, bulk density, relative porosity), thermal (air permeability, water vapour permeability, water vapour resistance) and moisture management properties (wetting time, spreading speed, wetting radius, absorption, vertical wicking rate) were assessed and compared between treated and untreated samples. Significant improvements (p < 0.05) in air permeability (SYN: Δ 26.0 mm.s⁻¹; BLEND: Δ 61.6 mm·s⁻¹), wetting time (SYN: Δ 0.3 s; BLEND: Δ 0.3 s), and spreading speed (BLEND: Δ 1.1 mm·s⁻¹; SYN: no change) were recorded following treatment. Non-significant changes in water vapour permeability (SYN: Δ 0.1; BLEND: Δ 0.1), water vapour resistance (SYN: Δ 0.7 Pa·m²W⁻¹; BLEND: Δ 0.4 Pa·m²W⁻¹) and vertical wicking (BLEND: Δ 6.1 mm·s⁻¹; SYN: no change) were also observed following treatment. Though not all material properties improved, this study provides evidence that the functional polymer treatment can enhance the evaporative cooling capacity of sports clothing fabrics. Future research is needed to understand how these results translate to physiological, perceptual, and performance-based effects in wearer trials during exercise. Full article

Despite the enormous amounts of waste textiles produced by the world’s textile industry’s explosive growth, resource utilization rates are still poor. Cotton/polyester blended waste fabrics make up a sizable share, and sorting them precisely is essential to increasing recycling value and promoting the circular economy in the textile industry. Traditional mechanical and human sorting techniques are ineffective and inaccurate; current spectral analysis algorithms mainly concentrate on quantitative composition prediction and are insufficiently capable of differentiating between waste fabrics with comparable content gradients. To address these challenges, this paper proposes an improved 1DCNN model (Dual-1DCNN-Residual-SE) integrated with Near-Infrared (NIR) hyperspectral imaging technology. This model takes raw spectral data and Savitzky-Golay (SG) smoothing data as dual-channel inputs, introducing residual connections to capture subtle spectral differences between similar fabric categories, and employs SE attention mechanisms to adaptively enhance key features. Comparative experiments with four traditional algorithms—KNN, RF, SVM, and PLS—demonstrate that the proposed model achieves a classification accuracy of 95.94%, surpassing the best traditional algorithm SVM (88.12%) by 7.82%. Ablation experiments confirm each enhanced module’s efficacy. This study achieves high-precision classification of cotton/polyester blended waste fabrics, providing technical support for intelligent sorting of industrial waste fabrics. Full article

The textile dyeing sector is one of the largest industrial consumers of freshwater and a major source of chemically polluted effluents. To address increasing sustainability demands, this study investigates the feasibility of partially replacing process water with membrane bioreactor (MBR)-treated municipal wastewater in the dyeing of polyester and cotton fabrics. Controlled laboratory trials were carried out using water mixtures containing 0–100% MBR-treated wastewater to evaluate their influence on fabric integrity, coloration, and performance. The experimental work included blind dyeing and both monochromatic and trichromatic dyeing tests. Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) was used to assess potential modifications to fiber structure, while colorimetric measurements (CIELAB L*, a*, b*, ΔE*) quantified visual differences among samples. Fastness to washing and light was evaluated following the corresponding ISO standards. Results showed no detectable alterations in fiber chemical structure for either cotton or polyester, regardless of the water composition. Color differences remained low across all dyeing conditions, and fastness values fell within typical industrial ranges, with polyester showing the highest overall stability. Overall, the study demonstrates that up to 25% of process water can be substituted with MBR-treated municipal wastewater without compromising dyeing quality, supporting the implementation of circular water strategies in textile finishing. Full article

This study explored, for the first time, the simultaneous dyeing and functionalization of textiles using enzymatically synthesized mixtures of phloridzin and esculin oligomers. Initial screening using multifiber fabric containing diacetate, cotton, polyamide, polyester, polyacrylonitrile, silk, viscose, and wool revealed that the oligomers successfully imparted color and high antioxidant activity to cotton, polyamide, and viscose. These three materials were therefore selected for determination of key process parameters’ influence, including temperature (35 °C and 75 °C), reaction time (6 h and 19 h), and oligomers’ concentration (1.5 and 3.0 mg/mL). Treated fabrics were evaluated for color strength (K/S), antioxidant activity, and prebiotic capacity (in vitro stratum corneum model), with all properties assessed before and after washing. The results showed that several functionalized fabrics retained coloration and functionality after washing, while fabrics functionalized with esculin oligomers’ mixture showed strong prebiotic capacity. Overall, the polyamide that functionalized with 3.0 mg/mL esculin oligomers for 19 h at 35 °C was identified as a promising candidate for reusable colored textiles, including dermatology-oriented garments for sensitive or atopic skin, sportswear, protective workwear, and daily use functional items such as hygienic pads or cloth liners. These findings demonstrate the feasibility of developing textiles with targeted prebiotic functionality. Full article

Polyester/cotton blended fabrics—valued for comfort and durability—face significant fire hazards due to a synergistic “scaffold effect” during combustion. Conventional treatments with high temperature or some acidic phosphorus flame retardants during preparation often compromise the mechanical strength. Inspired by mussel adhesion chemistry, a mechanically enhanced polyester/cotton fabric was developed by using a novel bio-inspired phosphorus/nitrogen (P/N) synergistic coating. A uniform polydopamine-polyethylenimine (PDA-PEI) layer is rapidly deposited via co-deposition, suppressing dopamine self-polymerization. Subsequent covalent bonding with 2,2-dimethyl-1,3-propanediyl bis (phosphoryl chloride) (DPPC) establishes a robust P/N network. The fabricated PDA-PEI/DPPC coating reduces peak heat release rate (pHRR) and total heat release (THR) by 57.7% and 32.6%, respectively, in cone calorimetry, achieving self-extinguishment and a high limiting oxygen index (LOI) of 24.6%. Remarkably, the coating simultaneously increases the weft-direction breaking strength by 55% and elongation at break by 27.2%; these changes overcome the typical mechanical degradation associated with acidic phosphorus flame retardants. A comprehensive analysis reveals a synergistic mechanism: phosphoric acids catalyze cellulose dehydration and char layer formation in the condensed phase (90% stable C–C bonds), while radical scavengers (PO·, HPO·, and PDA) and non-flammable gases suppressed gas-phase combustion. This work presents a facile and effective strategy for fabricating high-performance and mechanically robust flame retardant polyester/cotton textiles, demonstrating the significant potential for improving fire safety in practical applications. Full article

During use, the surface of textile fabrics is prone to wear, which can cause changes such as pilling. Pilling (entanglement of fibers) is primarily assessed using the standard visual method EN ISO 12945-4:2020, but it can also be quantitatively measured by instrumental methods with image analysis software. Due to non-uniform digital imaging conditions, such as variations in magnification and analyzed surface area, the assessed area is often inconsistent. As a result, the total percentage of the fabric specimen surface area covered with pills is often omitted. To ensure uniform digital imaging, an innovative apparatus was designed and constructed in this research and applied to woven fabrics made from 100% cotton, wool, viscose, polyamide 6.6, polyester, and acrylic fiber. Pilling in the fabric specimens was induced by rubbing with the Martindale pilling tester (EN ISO 12945-2:2020) using two different abradant materials, through predefined pilling rubs ranging from 125 to 30,000. Pilling assessment was conducted using both the visual method and the improved instrumental method, following established grading classes based on the total percentage of the fabric specimen surface area covered with pills. The research results highlight the importance of uniform digital imaging and digital grading, as these demonstrate the high comparability of pilling grades assigned by the standard visual method while providing better distinction between consecutive grades. Full article

This study presents the development of hydrophobic coatings for textile applications using natural biopolymers. Natural polysaccharides and waxes in the form of microcapsules were incorporated into a polysaccharide matrix to produce a microcapsule-based coating. Several coating formulations were prepared, incorporating varying concentrations of microcapsules and crosslinking agent (including versions without crosslinker) and subsequently applied to cotton and polyester fabrics using the rod-coating process. The coated fabrics were analyzed in order to evaluate the improvement in hydrophobicity and possible changes in physical properties, while the initial washing stability of the coating was analyzed by determining resistance to one domestic washing cycle. The coating increased the water contact angle from a highly hydrophilic to hydrophobic state (above 120°). After washing, the samples largely retained their hydrophobic properties, with some of them still exceeding a water contact angle (WCA) of 120°. The findings indicate that natural biopolymer microcapsule-based coatings, even without crosslinker, can effectively impart stable hydrophobic properties to textiles, thereby offering a safer alternative to conventional coatings containing per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS). Full article