Search Results (14)

This research explores the underappreciated traditional cold-water baths of Western Anatolia, once integral to the region’s agrarian culture. Due to waves of change, which had markedly begun by the pandemic in 2019 and the aftermath of the 2020 Samos earthquake, there has been a growing interest in living in peri-urban areas, resulting in the invasion of agricultural grounds by new construction, mainly including detached houses with gardens. Such a harsh growth not only threatens the fertile lands, but also the irreplaceable cultural heritage they embrace. In this regional frame, this study focuses on three surviving baths within the Karaburun Peninsula, casting light on their current precarious state as relics of a diminishing rural way of life and local heritage. The traditional cold-water baths, constructed amidst agricultural fields for seasonal use in select villages throughout İzmir, stand as unique exemplars of rural architecture. Characterised by their singular domed chambers and their reliance on water from adjacent wells, these structures today face abandonment and disrepair. Through a multi-disciplinary lens blending ethnography, oral history, and spatial analysis, this paper portrays these unassuming yet culturally impactful baths, elucidating their intrinsic value within the heritage domain. The inquiry contributes significantly to the heritage conservation discussion, highlighting the broad spectrum of values beyond mere historical interest. By articulating the symbiotic relationship between heritage and its community, this research underscores the pressing need to weave these baths into the fabric of current social structures, safeguarding their place within the collective memory. Full article

Three-dimensional (3D) spacer fabric has the characteristics of a light weight and high strength, and its unique three-dimensional structure gives it great potential for development in terms of insulation. For the purpose of further improving the thermal insulation performance of 3D spacer fabric, the fabric was treated with silica aerogel while solving the problem of powdering during use. Firstly, the electronic Jacquard machine was modified for weaving spacer fabrics. The ground warp yarns were controlled by two groups of heald frames with various positions of heald eye, forming a double-shuttle. The longitudinal warp yarns were controlled by the Jacquard healdwine to prepare a spacer Jacquard fabric with a spacing of 5 mm. Secondly, polyurethane foam was applied as a carrier to compound with silica aerogel. The experimental results demonstrate that the strength of the composite fabrics is significantly increased, while the toughness is decreased. With the increase in silica aerogel content, the pore size of foam becomes smaller, and the degree of foam fragmentation increases, showing a trend of increasing thermal insulation performance followed by a decreasing insulation performance. When the aerogel content is 3.3%, the composite fabric has the optimal thermal insulation performance. Full article

Afropean anthropologist, philosopher, and art curator Dénètem Touam Bona is an original “border thinker” and “crosser” of geographic and conceptual boundaries working within a tradition of Caribbean historical poetics, notably represented by Édouard Glissant. He explores ideas of “fugue” and “refuge” in light of the experience of maroons or escaped slaves, key actors of the simultaneous expansion of freedom and industrial-scale chattel slavery in the Americas. In “Freedom as Marronage” (2015), Neill Roberts defines freedom itself as perpetual flight, and locates its very origins in the liminal and transitional spaces of slave escape, offering a perspective on modernity that gives voice to hunted fugitives, defiant of its ecology, enclosures, and definition, and who were ultimately excised from its archive. Touam Bona’s “cosmo-poetics” excavates marronage as a mode of invention, subterfuge and utopian projection that revisits its history and representation; sacred, musical, ecological, and corporeal idioms; and alternative forms of community, while also inviting contemporary parallels with the “captives” of the global border regime, namely fugitives, nomads, refugees, and asylum seekers who perpetually evade norms, controls, and domestication. He deploys the metaphor of the liana, a long-stemmed tropical vine that climbs and twines through dense forests, weaving relation in defiance of predation, to evoke colonized and displaced peoples’ subterranean evasion of commodification, classification, control, cultural erasure, and ecological annihilation. This article frames his work within an Afro-diasporic history and transnational cultural criticism that envisions fugitivity and exilic spaces as dissonant forms of resistance to the coloniality of power, and their relevance to understanding racialization, representations of the past, and narratives of freedom and belonging across borders. Full article

Historical marquisette curtains were composed of lightweight fabrics, woven in an open-mesh and leno-type weave, usually made of silk, and found in Qing imperial buildings. As panel curtains, they were exposed to light, and so underwent fading. This study investigated the manufacturing technology and fading mechanism of dyed marquisette fabric from the Studio of Cleansing Fragrance, the Palace Museum (Beijing). The technological aspects were identified. The types of weave, fiber, and adhesive used to fix the curtain to the wooden frame were identified through microscopic observation and infrared spectroscopy. A color change characterization was performed based on UV-visible diffuse reflectance spectra. The textile colorant was identified as malachite green (MG), and its degradation by light was subsequently studied by dynamic photolysis experiments in a kinetic solution for the rapid exploration of by-products. The main degradation pathways were thus identified and the factors responsible for the induced color changes were discussed. A comparison of the liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC–MS) results of the products derived from the photolysis method as well as of the samples extracted from the object allowed for the identification of the presence of different degradation pathways in the faded and unfaded parts of the textile. A metabolomics analysis was applied to account for the differences in the degradation pathways. Full article

In response to U.S. government restrictions imposed as part of a nationwide response to the COVID-19 pandemic, charismatic worship leader Sean Feucht began a series of worship concerts. Feucht positioned these protests as expressions of Christian religious freedom in opposition to mandated church closings and a perceived double-standard regarding the large gatherings of protesters over police violence against Black and Brown persons. Government restrictions challenged the sine qua non liturgical act of encounter with God for evangelicals, Pentecostals, and Charismatics: congregational singing in Praise and Worship. However, as Feucht’s itinerant worship concerts traversed urban spaces across the U.S. to protest these restrictions, the events gained a double valence. Feucht and event attendees sought to channel God’s power through musical worship to overturn government mandates and, along the way, they invoked longstanding social and racial prejudices toward urban spaces. In this essay, I argue that Feucht’s events reveal complex theological motivations that weave together liturgical-theological, social, and political concerns. Deciphering this complex tapestry requires a review of both the history of evangelical engagement with urban spaces and the theological history of Praise and Worship. Together, these two sets of historical resources generate a useful frame for considering how Feucht, as a charismatic musical worship leader, attempts to wield spiritual power through musical praise to change political situations and the social conditions. Full article

The work is framed within Printed Electronics, an emerging technology for the manufacture of electronic products. Among the different printing methods, the roll-to-roll flexography technique is used because it allows continuous manufacturing and high productivity at low cost. Nevertheless, the incorporation of the flexography printing technique in the textile field is still very recent due to technical barriers such as the porosity of the surface, the durability and the ability to withstand washing. By using the flexography printing technique and conductive inks, different printings were performed onto woven fabrics. Specifically, the study is focused on investigating the influence of the structure of the woven fabric with different weave construction, interlacing coefficient, yarn number and fabric density on the conductivity of the printing. In the same way, the influence of the weft composition was studied by a comparison of different materials (cotton, polyester, and wool). Optical, SEM, color fastness to wash, color measurement using reflection spectrophotometer and multi-meter analyses concluded that woven fabrics have a lower conductivity due to the ink expansion through the inner part of the textile. Regarding weft composition, cotton performs worse due to the moisture absorption capacity of cellulosic fiber. A solution for improving conductivity on printed electronic textiles would be pre-treatment of the surface substrates by applying different chemical compounds that increase the adhesion of the ink, avoiding its absorption. Full article

The continuing interest and progress in indigenous communities and local economies based on traditional, cultural, and ecological knowledge contributes to indigenous resilience. Here we report on an ongoing collaborative project investigating the process of renewal of cultural heritage through strengthening the roots of indigenous cultural traditions of knowledge and practice, and the changing concepts of tradition. The project investigates the various mechanisms for conserving indigenous culture: How the heritage of indigenous culture is reconstructed; how this heritage is related to the social frame and practice of everyday life; how power intervention affects the contestation of heritage; and in the context of heritage contestation, how cultural heritage turns into economic capital in the tourism economy of the community. The project explores the process of cultural heritagization of indigenous traditional knowledge through six individual projects in the areas of food and edible heritage, ethnic revival, weaving, solidarity economy, cultural ecotourism, and indigenous agro-products. In addition, the project examines the establishment of a constructive dialogue between the “traditional future”, cultural heritage literature and local practice in the interest of the consolidation of alternative development. Full article

This paper describes a novel method for the rapid construction of skin, using multiple layers of aligned electrospun fibers as starting scaffolds. Scaffolds were spun from biodegradable L-lactide/glycolide (molar ratio 10:90) with predominantly parallel arrays of fibers attached peripherally to thin 304 stainless steel layer frames. Each layer frame was held between two thicker support frames. Human skin cells were seeded onto multiple (three–nine) scaffolds. Dermal fibroblasts were seeded on both sides of each scaffold except for one on which keratinocytes were seeded on one side only. Following 48 h of culture, the scaffolds and layer frames were unmounted from their support frames, stacked, with keratinocytes uppermost, and securely held in place by upper and lower support frames to instantly form a multilayered “dermis” and a nascent epidermis. The stack was cultured for a further 5 days during which time the cells proliferated and then adhered to form, in association with the spun fibers, a mechanically coherent tissue. Fibroblasts preferentially elongated in the dominant fiber direction and a two-dimensional weave of alternating fiber and cell alignments could be constructed by selected placement of the layer frames during stacking. Histology of the 7-day tissue stacks showed the organized layers of fibroblasts and keratinocytes immuno-positive for keratin. Electron microscopy showed attachment of fibroblasts to the lactide/glycolide fibers and small-diameter collagen fibers in the extracellular space. This novel approach could be used to engineer a range of tissues for grafting where rapid construction of tissues with aligned or woven layers would be beneficial. Full article

Urban Microclimate Canopy is a digitally fabricated fiber glass structure supporting climbing plants in order to explore new ways of integrating vegetation in densely built urban environments. A prototype was designed and manufactured in the context of an interdisciplinary studio with master’s students following an approach of research by design. Varying the assembly of winding frames and fiber weaving syntax generates diverse geometric shape and structural performance. For two short-term exhibitions, ivy plants were temporarily installed in the structure. This first step was followed with a reflection of systematic integration of the growth processes of climbing plants and parametric design. An iterative solution is given, consisting of a feedback loop linking the design of the technical structure, the simulation of plant growth, and the simulation of the environmental effects of the hybrid structure. To achieve this a novel framework for simulating twining plant’s growth on network-like structures is presented: external stimuli define a cone-shaped circumnutation space (searching space model) which results in a climbing path (climbing steps model). The framework is constructed to integrate improved individual functions (such as stimuli of circumnutation) for better simulation results. To acquire more knowledge about interactions between the plants and the fiber structure, the prototype was installed permanently and planted with three different climbing plants, representing different climbing mechanisms. Full article

In the present paper, we obtain some new inequalities for weaving K-frames in subspaces based on the operator methods. The inequalities are associated with a sequence of bounded complex numbers and a parameter $\lambda \in \mathbb{R}$ . We also give a double inequality for weaving K-frames with the help of two bounded linear operators induced by K-dual. Facts prove that our results cover those recently obtained on weaving frames due to Li and Leng, and Xiang. Full article

Historical weaving techniques have evolved in time and space giving as result more or less fabrics with different aesthetical characteristics. These techniques were transferred along the main silk production centers, thanks to the European Silk Road and creating a common European Frame on themes and techniques. These had made it complicated to determine whether a fabric corresponds to one century or another. Moreover, in order to understand their creation, it is necessary to determine the number of weaves and interlacements that each textile has, therefore, mathematical models can be extracted from these layers. In this sense, three dimensional (3D) virtual representations of the internal structure of textiles are of interest for a variety of purposes related to fashion, industry, education or other areas. The aim of this paper is to propose a mathematical modelling of historical weaving techniques by means of matrices in order to be easily mapped to a virtual 3D representation. The work focuses on historical silk textiles, ranging from the 15th to the 19th centuries. We also propose a computer vision-based strategy to extract relevant information from digital imagery, by considering different types of images (textiles, technical drawings and macro images). The work here presented has been carried out in the scope of the SILKNOW project, which has received funding from the European Union’s Horizon 2020 research and innovation program under grant agreement No. 769504. The results shown in the paper are preliminary and will be improved in the scope of the project. Full article

In this paper, we present several new inequalities for weaving frames in Hilbert spaces from the point of view of operator theory, which are related to a linear bounded operator induced by three Bessel sequences and a scalar in the set of real numbers. It is indicated that our results are more general and cover the corresponding results recently obtained by Li and Leng. We also give a triangle inequality for weaving frames in Hilbert spaces, which is structurally different from previous ones. Full article

This essay lays the elaborate textile of feminist discourse alongside the equally rich fabric of contemporary female Buddhist monasticisms, taking note of places the latter has pulled threads from the former, but also pointing out the ways in which female monastics lead agentive, creative, and sometimes rebellious female lives that in subtle and not so subtle ways resist the label “feminist,” or contribute a new motif or fiber to the feminist weave. Case study reports on two innovative Buddhist female communities in Malaysia and Nepal, chosen because they offer examples of innovations within the context of Buddhist female monasticism that are interestingly complex as examples of Buddhist feminist consciousness, will serve to make visible a few particular female Buddhist monastic perspectives. Respectfully called in as interlocutors and cotheorizers, the monastic persons described here offer religious perspectives on norm-following, agency, and coalition-building that expand the feminist frame. Full article

Bicycles are known to be rich source of kinetic energy, some of which is available for harvesting during speedy and balanced maneuvers by the user. A conventional dynamo attached to the rim can generate a large amount of output power at an expense of extra energy input from the user. However, when applying energy conversion technology to human powered equipments, it is important to minimize the increase in extra muscular activity and to maximize the efficiency of human movements. This study proposes a novel energy harvesting methodology that utilizes lateral oscillation of bicycle frame (weaving) caused by user weight shifting movements in order to increase the pedaling force in uphill riding or during quick speed-up. Based on the 3D motion analysis, we designed and implemented the prototype of an electro-dynamic energy harvester that can be mounted on the bicycle’s handlebar to collect energy from the side-to-side movement. The harvester was found to generate substantial electric output power of 6.6 mW from normal road riding. It was able to generate power even during uphill riding which has never been shown with other approaches. Moreover, harvesting of energy from weaving motion seems to increase the economy of cycling by helping efficient usage of human power. Full article