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10.3390/molecules26216611
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Article

Phenylalanine Butyramide Is a New Cosmetic Ingredient with Soothing and Anti-Reddening Potential

by
Ritamaria di Lorenzo
1,
Antonietta Bernardi
1,
Lucia Grumetto
1,
Antonia Sacchi
1,
Carmen Avagliano
1,
Serena Coppola
2,3,
Anna Fiorenza de Giovanni di Santa Severina
2,3,
Cristina Bruno
2,3,
Lorella Paparo
2,3,
Sonia Laneri
1,* and
Irene Dini
1,*
1
Department of Pharmacy, University of Naples Federico II, Via Domenico Montesano 49, 80131 Napoli, Italy
2
Department of Translational Medical Science, University of Naples Federico II, Via Sergio Pansini 5, 80131 Naples, Italy
3
ImmunoNutritionLab at the CEINGE-Biotecnologie Avanzate s.c.ar.l Research Center, University of Naples Federico II, 80131 Naples, Italy
*
Authors to whom correspondence should be addressed.
Molecules 2021, 26(21), 6611; https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26216611
Submission received: 14 October 2021 / Revised: 27 October 2021 / Accepted: 29 October 2021 / Published: 31 October 2021
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Lipids and Alkaloids for Therapeutic and Cosmetic Applications)
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Abstract

Human skin is colonized by diverse commensal microbes, making up the skin microbiota (SM), contributing to skin integrity and homeostasis. Many of the beneficial effects aroused by the SM are exerted by microbial metabolites such as short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs), including butyric acid. The SCFAs can be used in cosmetic formulations against skin diseases to protect SM by preserving and/or restoring their natural balance. Unpleasant sensorial properties and unfavorable physico-chemical properties of butyrate strongly limit its cosmetic use. In contrast, some butyrate derivatives, including phenylalanine butyramide (C13H18N2O2, FBA), a solid form of butyric acid, are odorless while retaining the pharmacokinetic properties and safety profile of butyric acid. This study assessed the FBA’s permeation across the skin and its soothing and anti-reddening potential to estimate its cosmetic application. The dosage method used to estimate FBA’s levels was validated to be sure of analytical results. The FBA diffusion tests were estimated in vitro using a Franz-type vertical diffusion cell. The soothing action was evaluated in vivo by Colorimeter CL400, measuring the erythema index. The results suggest that the FBA represents an innovative way to exploit the benefits of butyric acid in the cosmetic fields since it cannot reach the bloodstream, is odorless, and has a significative soothing action (decrease the erythema index −15.7% after 30′, and −17.8% after 60′).
Keywords: butyrate; skin microbiota; skin permeation; erythema index; soothing and anti-reddening effect butyrate; skin microbiota; skin permeation; erythema index; soothing and anti-reddening effect

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MDPI and ACS Style

di Lorenzo, R.; Bernardi, A.; Grumetto, L.; Sacchi, A.; Avagliano, C.; Coppola, S.; de Giovanni di Santa Severina, A.F.; Bruno, C.; Paparo, L.; Laneri, S.; et al. Phenylalanine Butyramide Is a New Cosmetic Ingredient with Soothing and Anti-Reddening Potential. Molecules 2021, 26, 6611. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26216611

AMA Style

di Lorenzo R, Bernardi A, Grumetto L, Sacchi A, Avagliano C, Coppola S, de Giovanni di Santa Severina AF, Bruno C, Paparo L, Laneri S, et al. Phenylalanine Butyramide Is a New Cosmetic Ingredient with Soothing and Anti-Reddening Potential. Molecules. 2021; 26(21):6611. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26216611

Chicago/Turabian Style

di Lorenzo, Ritamaria, Antonietta Bernardi, Lucia Grumetto, Antonia Sacchi, Carmen Avagliano, Serena Coppola, Anna Fiorenza de Giovanni di Santa Severina, Cristina Bruno, Lorella Paparo, Sonia Laneri, and et al. 2021. "Phenylalanine Butyramide Is a New Cosmetic Ingredient with Soothing and Anti-Reddening Potential" Molecules 26, no. 21: 6611. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26216611

APA Style

di Lorenzo, R., Bernardi, A., Grumetto, L., Sacchi, A., Avagliano, C., Coppola, S., de Giovanni di Santa Severina, A. F., Bruno, C., Paparo, L., Laneri, S., & Dini, I. (2021). Phenylalanine Butyramide Is a New Cosmetic Ingredient with Soothing and Anti-Reddening Potential. Molecules, 26(21), 6611. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules26216611

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