Understanding Intangible Culture Heritage Preservation via Analyzing Inhabitants’ Garments of Early 19th Century in Weld Quay, Malaysia
Abstract
:1. Introduction
2. Narrative Analysis for Mining the Data of Material Culture
3. Interview Process
3.1. Background Study on Informant A
3.2. Background Study on Informant B
4. From Stories to Data Analysis
4.1. Narrative Stories Based on Informant A and His Grandfather
“I have seen those pants before as my father wore them too. The pants were called ‘ngau tau fu’.”(Inf A, 20-L119)
“It is like towel. Shui mang is a kind of cloth.”(Inf A, 21a-L111)
“They were pants, but the pattern of these pants was different from others. The waistband area was tied with long piece of cloth. The lower part of the pants was very broad.”(Inf A, 21b-L112)
“The main purpose is to ease the laborers when they were working, so that they could easily move while carrying the goods. It’s just like Bruce Lee’s costume in the movie.”(Inf A, 21c-L113)
“Yes! The upper part of the pants consists of shui mang. Whenever the laborers required much strength for carrying goods, they would tighten the knot of the shui mang. It is a long piece of cloth.”(Inf A, 21d-L115)
“…because there was no rubber at the waist. The top part of the pants will then be folded down and cover the shui mang.”(Inf A, 22a-L116)
“…so then laborers can keep money in the folded area, as they couldn’t bring a wallet with them.”(Inf A, 22b-L117)
“…Laborers wore black in color. They usually kept their upper body naked.”(Inf A, 23a-L92)
“You mean the mandarin jacket with fabric buttons?”(Inf A, 23b-L102)
“The mandarin jacket consists of four pockets. They wore it with a matching hat.”(Inf A, 23c-L95)
“They didn’t button up the jacket. The jacket was with buttons but it was not buttoned up. The people in the past wouldn’t wear two pieces of clothing due to the hot weather. Furthermore, the fabric of the jacket was very thick. It was as thick as canvas.”(Inf A, 24-L104)
“The mandarin jacket was in blue. The blue looked ugly. They normally dyed the fabric with blue color, just like the blue that is used in the logo of Barisan Nasional.”(Inf A, 25a-L93)
“This tone of blue was used in the past, as it was resistant to dirt. Dirt can be easily visible on lighter colored fabric. Moreover, they didn’t have strong detergent during that time. They only used soap to wash clothes.”(Inf A, 25b-L108)
“It was made in a factory, but there were limited choices of colors, such as brown, beige, and black…”(Inf A, 26a-L109)
“No, only long pants were available. They were mainly wooden brown and black in color. However, the main color for shirt was blue, white, and beige…”(Inf A, 26b-L121)
“…The fabric was dyed with dark color, so it could absorb heat easily…”(Inf A, 26c-L105)
“Cotton must be the only material used to make clothes because polyester was not available during that time.”(Inf A, 27a-L84)
“…Only cotton was available in the past. Another material widely used by people was Ma (linen).”(Inf A, 27b-L85)
“Ma (linen) has a rougher surface than cotton. Cotton and silk can be said as the best materials back then. Only these three materials were used in the past.”(Inf A, 27c-L86)
“…Those who dressed in white were policemen and government officers. However, the British usually wore shirts and short pants, which were both white in color. The short pants were so referred to as ‘ma yin tong’ in Cantonese.”(Inf A, 28a-L121)
“…There were many pleats found at the waist area because the lower part of the pants was very broad…”(Inf A, 28b-L122)
“I didn’t see any Malays in Weld Quay. It was rare. Maybe one or two Malays who were wearing songkok will show up there. There were many Chinese.”(Inf A, 29a-L126)
“There was also the Penang Acheh Association. There were quite a number of them around Weld Quay if you are talking about Malay ethnics from Acheh.”(Inf A, 29b-L127)
“Same as the native Malays, they normally wore sarung and songkok.”(Inf A, 29c-L128)
4.2. Narrative Stories Based on Informant B
“Hokkien…Hokkien…still Hokkien yeah! Hokkien people…Hokkien people in those days is about 40–50%, and Kwangtung, Cantonese is 20%, Teowchew is 15%, Hakka 8%.”(Inf B, 7a-L94)
“Kwangtung they don’t really find them… because you know Cantonese they are tin miners. Penang not many Cantonese.”(Inf B, 7b-L92)
“Before these clan jetties came about, they were staying in the like Stewart Lane… all these places… the coolie house. One house fifty to sixty people all back then.”(Inf B, 8-L12)
“Yes! Clan jetty is like a great doubt that they can carry heavy goods. Some clan jetties are only for charcoal. Like the last few one… the Yeoh Jetty is actually for charcoal.”(Inf B, 9a-L69)
“…Yeah… and it is very shaky and then they construct themselves and then they were poor Chinese. Where they have money to build a strong…err…this…err…pier. No, that’s not pier. So whether they really carry heavy goods and go through the clan jetty and you find opposite the clan jetty, they are not really warehouses. So this is more for residential. So the Chinese…from the clan jetty also go to the pier to get the things down…up and down lah.”(Inf B, 9b-L71)
“Yeah, the clan jetties are good example. Not all of them nah… Err… I think that Lee Jetty, Chew Jetty, Lim Jetty and most of the people work as the porters lah. Stevedores! We have a good call… stevedores! or you can call them as coolies.”(Inf B, 10a-L11)
“…the coolies are either Chinese or Indian carried all the goods to the… the gudangs.”(Inf B, 10b-L9)
“As in Kedah Malays stayed in the Seberang Perai.”(Inf B, 11a-L30)
“So… very few really crossed to the island side lah. So if we’re talking about Malay, there…many of them would be the Acheh Malay descendants.”(Inf B, 11b-L31)
“Okay…if you want to define Malay…err…In town, the urban Malay…there’s one from Acheh.”(Inf B, 11c-L28)
“Muslims err… they were…there is no record of showing them were working as the laborers because they were farmers. Paddy field…farmers…and fisherman in Tanjong Tokong.”(Inf B, 11d-L16)
“We have to be more specific because…and then we also have the Jawi Peranakan. They are some mixed. Malay mixed with the Indian–Muslim, some also mixed with the Arabic. We have the mahadrami…Hadrami Muslim…is from Yemen. Actually they went through Acheh, and from Acheh, they came to Penang. Hadrami ya…Some are Arabs. So Muslim…We have to group them as Muslims. It’s so mixed already.”(Inf B, 12a-L32)
“…but those days what we meant the Muslim communities is err…ar Lebuh Acheh, setting up their printing shops. Some of the Malay in Jawi… the earliest comes in this countries to set up their printing bookshop.”(Inf B, 12b-L22)
“Arabic guys also… Hadrami ya…appear…yeah…The record shows 500 of them…by Acheh come to Penang and they want to set up like Acheh Mosque…all these things and a lot of them actually are Iman…and well-known.”(Inf B, 12c-L33)
5. Collaborative Analysis Process
5.1. Garments of Chinese Ethnic at Weld Quay
5.2. Garments of Indian Communities at Weld Quay
5.3. Garments of Malay Communities at Weld Quay
5.4. Garments of British or European Communities in Weld Quay
6. Conclusions
Author Contributions
Funding
Institutional Review Board Statement
Informed Consent Statement
Data Availability Statement
Acknowledgments
Conflicts of Interest
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Data Coding Used in the Transcription of Informant A and B | Representation of the Data Code |
---|---|
Inf A | Informant A |
Inf B | Informant B |
Numbering in the middle of the code (1a, 1b, 2, 3, 5a, 5b…) | The sequence of the transcription used in the narrative stories |
The last numbering of the code (L1, L2…L128) | These codes are used to refer the narrative stories that are extracted from which part of the full/original interview transcriptions. |
Theme | Aspect | Description | Informants | |
---|---|---|---|---|
A | B | |||
Garments worn by different ethnic groups in the past life in trading port of Weld Quay | Garments of Ethnic Chinese | Chinese laborers were either kept their body naked or wore mandarin jacket with a matching hat and they would wear long bucket pants at the bottom. | ✓ | ✗ |
Limited choice of color used to make costume. The main colors of the mandarin jacket were blue, white, and beige, whereas for pants it was wooden brown and black. | ✓ | ✗ | ||
Garments of Ethnic Malay | Malay-Acheh that showed up in Weld Quay also dressed resembling native Malay. They wore sarung and songkok as well. | ✓ | ✗ | |
Garments of British | British wore shirt and short pants, which were white in color. Policemen and government officers were both dressed in white. | ✓ | ✗ | |
Fabric | The fabrics mainly used to make clothes were cotton, silk, and linen. | ✓ | ✗ | |
Occupational Activities Happened in Weld Quay Trading Port | Chinese Ethnic in Weld Quay | Not all of the Chinese communities worked as stevedores at the port. | ✓ | ✓ |
The major Chinese communities in Penang were Hokkiens; not many Kwangtung people were found in Penang back then. | ✗ | ✓ | ||
Chinese communities settled down at the clan jetties were all Hokkiens | ✓ | ✓ | ||
Only Hokkiens from Chew, Lim, Lee, and Ong Jetty would work as stevedores | ✗ | ✓ | ||
Kwantung people settled down near to the area of Kuan Yin Teng | ✓ | ✗ | ||
Most of the Kwangtungs worked as tin miner but not stevedores. | ✗ | ✓ | ||
Indian Ethnic in Weld Quay | Most of the Indian communities worked as stevedores at the port. | ✓ | ✓ | |
Indian communities were separated in a few types | ✗ | ✓ | ||
Malay Ethnic in Weld Quay | Native Malays were rarely showed up in Weld Quay’s trading port. They worked as farmers or fisherman. | ✓ | ✓ | |
Malays who would show up in Weld Quay were Malay-Acheh, as there was a mosque named Lebuh Acheh nearby trading port. | ✓ | ✓ | ||
Malay sub-ethnic groups were grouped as Muslim communities (Jawi Peranakan, Tamil Muslim, Arabic, Hadrami Muslim from Yemen) | ✗ | ✓ | ||
Some of the Malays from Jawi began setting up printing shops in town. | ✗ | ✓ | ||
Ethnic British in Weld Quay | Governor or government officer | ✓ | ✗ |
Statistics of Denotative Element in Visual Data | ||
---|---|---|
Data Sources | Inhabitant Garment | Frequency of Visual Used |
Printed Document | ||
Postcard | 22 | 51.16% |
Books | 4 | 9.30% |
Virtual Outputs | ||
Website | 5 | 11.62% |
Archive | 3 | 6.98% |
Article | 1 | 2.33% |
Blog | 1 | 2.33% |
Visit to Penang | ||
Museum/Gallery | 7 | 16.28% |
Total Number of Visual Used | 43 | 100% |
Aspect | Chinese | Indian | Malay | English |
---|---|---|---|---|
Visual Data | | | | |
Clothes and the Element | Mandarin jacket elements: designed with four pockets and cloth buttons | Keep the upper body naked or with white shirt (gupha) | Baju Melayu or baju panjang | Suit and shirt in white |
Pants and the Element | Cropped bucket pants elements: long cloth named (shui mang) used to tighten the waistband area of the pants | White sarong or checkered sarong (kain pelikat) | Chequered sarong or kain pelikat | Pants in white |
Accessories | Matching with bowler hat or straw hat | Matching with head cloth | Matching with songkok | Matching with white bowler hat |
Garments for Occupational Activities | Garments with darker or dull color for lower class Chinese who worked as stevedores, laborers, or artisans Suits or mandarin wear in white were for the upper class of Chinese who worked as merchant or government officer. | The garments mentioned above are mostly for lower class Indian ethnic groups mostly found in old Weld Quay who worked as laborers and stevedores. There are different garments for wealthier or higher class Indians such as Hindustanis and Chettiers. | The garments that mentioned at above are dressed by most of the Jawi Peranakan, town Malay, or Acehnese who were working as vendors or traders Malay communities such as Arabic and Hadrami Yemen are different in terms of clothing. | White shirt and had always been the stereotype and a symbol of status for the English who worked as merchants, colonial officers, or governors in the old Weld Quay. |
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Lim, C.K.; Ahmed, M.F.; Mokhtar, M.B.; Tan, K.L.; Idris, M.Z.; Chan, Y.C. Understanding Intangible Culture Heritage Preservation via Analyzing Inhabitants’ Garments of Early 19th Century in Weld Quay, Malaysia. Sustainability 2021, 13, 5393. https://doi.org/10.3390/su13105393
Lim CK, Ahmed MF, Mokhtar MB, Tan KL, Idris MZ, Chan YC. Understanding Intangible Culture Heritage Preservation via Analyzing Inhabitants’ Garments of Early 19th Century in Weld Quay, Malaysia. Sustainability. 2021; 13(10):5393. https://doi.org/10.3390/su13105393
Chicago/Turabian StyleLim, Chen Kim, Minhaz Farid Ahmed, Mazlin Bin Mokhtar, Kian Lam Tan, Muhammad Zaffwan Idris, and Yi Chee Chan. 2021. "Understanding Intangible Culture Heritage Preservation via Analyzing Inhabitants’ Garments of Early 19th Century in Weld Quay, Malaysia" Sustainability 13, no. 10: 5393. https://doi.org/10.3390/su13105393