1. Introduction
As the world rethinks modern industrial civilization and develops sustainable strategic thought, a new design trend is emerging quietly: green design, also known as ecological design or sustainable design [
1]. The textile and apparel industry is one of the major sources of environmental pollution in the industrial sector [
2]. According to a report titled “Sustainability and Circularity in the Textile Value Chain—A Global Roadmap” published by the United Nations Environment Programme in 2023, it is evident that this industry accounts for an annual global greenhouse gas emissions range of 2–8%, resulting in approximately 9% of microplastic pollution infiltrating our oceans [
3]. This exacerbates climate change, biodiversity loss, and widespread environmental contamination on a global scale. Moreover, the textile industry astonishingly consumes approximately 215 trillion liters of water each year, perpetuating unsustainable consumption and production patterns that lead to a substantial waste of valuable global resources [
4]. Due to the universal use and high consumption characteristics of clothing products, the application of materials and technologies in their production process is critical for the protection of Earth’s resources and the long-term development of humanity. Sustainable clothing design represents a new trend and demand in the apparel industry, aiming to improve this industry’s pollution issues, thereby achieving sustainable development in terms of the environment, resources, society, and culture.
In December 2019, the European Commission released the European Green Deal, a comprehensive green-development-related strategic document containing specific action goals and policy measures relating to various aspects. In terms of preventing and managing pollution, the agreement mandates the creation of a zero-pollution, harmless environment and encourages the development of safe and sustainable products, thereby replacing hazardous chemicals with destructive environmental impacts [
5]. In the textile industry, the sustainable design of clothing requires the sustainability of materials. The use of eco-friendly materials can not only alleviate the pollution problems caused by clothing production but also allow for the more rational use of existing resources, aligning with the global trend and requirements for green development.
In the process of garment processing, fabric dyeing is a crucial step, with dyes being classified into natural and synthetic types. Following the introduction of synthetic dyes in the mid-19th century, the use of natural dyes significantly declined [
6]. Many synthetic dyes, due to their low cost, suitability for mass production, and excellent garment-coloring effects, have been widely used in the textile industry [
7]. While synthetic dyes offer many advantages, their production and use have a substantial impact on aquatic environments, including the release of hydrogen sulfide gas, the deposition of aluminum–sulfate complexes in soil, and the presence of high salt concentrations in wastewater discharge, all of which severely affect aquatic environments [
8]. Moreover, the biocompatibility of chemically synthesized dyes is poor, making them difficult to decompose and their pollution long-lasting [
9]. According to previous research statistics, there are still over 10,000 types of synthetic dyes available for commercial use worldwide today, with an annual production volume of nearly 800,000 tons. Approximately 140,000 tons are discharged as wastewater into the environment each year. The introduction of toxic chemicals into aquatic reservoirs has the potential to disrupt entire ecosystems and cause detrimental effects [
10]. For instance, in Cambodia, the garment industry is accountable for approximately 60% of water pollution and 34% of chemical pollution [
11]. Meanwhile, environmental pollution causes irreversible harm to human life and health. The United Nations report released in 2022 pointed out that “environmental pollution” and the “use of hazardous chemicals” are leading causes of human death [
12]. Research shows that one-sixth of the world’s deaths involve diseases caused by pollution, a proportion three times greater than deaths from AIDS, malaria, and tuberculosis combined and fifteen times greater than deaths from all wars, murders, and other forms of violence [
13]. Given the detrimental impact of textile dyeing on the environment and society, restrictions on synthetic dyes have been increasingly implemented since the beginning of the 21st century. Natural dyeing is currently experiencing a resurgence in interest and holds significant potential as a promising technology [
14]. In comparison to synthetic dyes, natural dyes are widely regarded as being safer for both environmental sustainability and human health due to their reduced generation of harmful wastewater during the dyeing process [
15]. Natural dyes are organic compounds derived from natural sources, such as plants (e.g., indigo and saffron), insects (e.g., cochineal beetles and lac scale insects), other animals (e.g., certain species of mollusks or shellfish), and unprocessed minerals (e.g., ferrous sulfate, ochre, and clay) [
16]. Different sources yield different colors, and some naturally structured dyes not only provide unique hues but also offer functional properties like antibacterial, UV protection, mothproof, and antioxidative qualities [
17]. With increasing awareness of environmental issues and engagement in the pursuit of healthy lifestyles, the demand for natural dyes and naturally dyed fabrics is growing. The design and development of naturally dyed products have become hotspots and research directions for textile industry professionals and enterprises.
According to the global consulting firm Accenture, since the COVID-19 pandemic, 61% of consumers have started buying eco-friendly products. Even after the pandemic, 89% of consumers said they would maintain these consumption patterns [
18]. Research by McKinsey & Company shows that 90% of Generation Z consumers believe companies have a responsibility to address environmental and social issues [
19]. As more consumers focus on the environment, their purchasing decisions are influencing companies to shift towards sustainable development [
20]. This consumer focus on environmental issues is prompting textile manufacturers to invest in green practices, respecting high environmental standards in production methods [
21]. In response to China’s textile industry, the Chinese government has formulated a series of policies, collaborating with enterprises to promote the green and low-carbon development of China’s textile industry [
22]. Reports show that many well-known Chinese apparel companies have set clear sustainable development goals, actively practicing green transformations in production methods [
23]. Consumer preferences and decisions profoundly impact the market, society, and environment [
24]. To further promote the development of the naturally dyed garment industry, it is essential to conduct in-depth research on consumer needs. Especially when the market price of green products is higher than ordinary products [
25], timely and effective research on consumer needs can provide a basis for enterprises in terms of formulating product development strategies, enabling more targeted design and optimization of naturally dyed garments, enhancing product market competitiveness, and effectively promoting the sustainable development of enterprises and the textile industry.
The KANO model is frequently employed to differentiate categories of needs that result in consumer satisfaction or dissatisfaction [
26], with the aim of elucidating the relationship between consumers and products [
27]. To date, numerous scholars have applied the KANO model to identify product demand attributes and make design-positioning decisions [
28]. However, its application in the field of environmentally friendly dyeing and weaving remains relatively scarce, particularly concerning research on natural dyed clothing within the Chinese consumer market. This study can provide effective data analysis and recommendations regarding Chinese consumers’ demand for natural dyed clothing, enabling natural dyeing garment companies to comprehend consumers’ intricate behaviors and product demands in order to achieve heightened customer satisfaction. Based on market-oriented demand, this understanding can drive product innovation and effective promotion while expanding market shares and profitability, thereby facilitating green transformation and sustainable development. In terms of its theoretical contributions, this study integrates the KANO model with the KJ analysis method and the Better–Worse coefficient research approach, offering a novel solution with which to accurately determine the importance of requirements that traditional KANO models fail to achieve. The precise and effective exploration of consumer demand is a prerequisite and foundation for conducting consumer demand analysis. The KJ analysis method can consolidate scattered and disorganized opinions, ultimately focusing on key issues to obtain a comprehensive list of consumer demands for natural dyed clothing [
29]. Building upon this, we conducted an analysis using the KANO model. While the traditional KANO model can qualitatively classify types of consumer demand for natural dyed clothing [
30], it falls short in effectively measuring the priority levels of these demands. Therefore, this study employs the Better–Worse coefficient method to quantitatively evaluate the weights of each requirement item in order to more accurately identify Chinese consumers’ classification and prioritization of demand items for natural dyed clothing. Additionally, this research provides new theoretical methods and references for related product design and development.
The specific objectives of this study are as follows: (1) to explore the demand list of Chinese consumers for naturally dyed clothing in the context of the Chinese consumer market; (2) to identify and classify the demand indicators for naturally dyed clothing using the KANO model and investigate key factors influencing Chinese consumers’ demand for such clothing; and (3) to provide a research basis for strategy formulation in the design and development process of naturally dyed clothing. In order to enhance the clarity of the existing research, we propose the following research questions (RQs):
RQ1. What are the demands of Chinese consumers regarding natural dyed clothing?
RQ2. How can the demands of Chinese consumers for natural dyed clothing be effectively categorized?
RQ3. How should the demands of Chinese consumers for natural dyed clothing be prioritized?
To achieve these objectives, this paper is structured as follows:
Section 2 provides an overview of the research status in the field of natural dyeing and sustainable consumption in the fashion industry.
Section 3 outlines the research methods, processes, data sources, and software employed in this study.
Section 4 presents the results obtained from classifying and prioritizing demands for natural dyed clothing using the KANO model and Better–Worse coefficient analysis.
Section 5 analyzes these findings and offers relevant recommendations for developing strategies related to natural dyed clothing. Finally,
Section 6 concludes with a discussion on both the theoretical and practical significance of this study while highlighting its limitations and suggesting potential directions for future research.
5. Discussion
To survive in global competition, companies must accurately and consistently identify consumer needs and satisfy them [
27]. Conducting research on naturally dyed garments with a focus on consumer needs is instrumental in providing targeted optimization directions and research foundations for strategy formulation in design development, marketing promotion, and after-sales services. In this approach, the aim is to enhance consumer satisfaction with naturally dyed garments, thereby expanding their influence and ultimately promoting the implementation of green development strategies in China’s textile industry. This study employed the KJ analysis method and the KANO model, investigating consumer demand for naturally dyed garments across five dimensions: product design, craftsmanship, performance, experience, and concept. The survey results categorized and ranked the demand indicators based on consumer satisfaction, identifying the degrees of consumers’ need for different demand items and the key factors for satisfaction enhancement. This reduces subjective influences on product development, standardizing and scientizing the development process. The results provide designers with references and decision makers with a basis for their decisions.
This study’s focus on product demand classification has led to the extraction of specific characteristics of consumer needs for naturally dyed garments, resulting in the establishment of a demand indicator list that aligns with consumer expectations. It identified 30 demand indicators related to naturally dyed garments, categorized into product design (nine indicators), craftsmanship (four indicators), performance (five indicators), experience (seven indicators), and concept (five indicators). The findings indicate that Attractive Quality demands constitute the largest proportion of these 30 indicators. This shows that, currently, consumers have high expectations for various features of naturally dyed garments. As these expectations are continuously met, consumer satisfaction is likely to increase, making these aspects critical indicators in the demand list for naturally dyed garments. In essence, understanding and catering to these identified consumer demands can guide the development and optimization of naturally dyed garments, ensuring that they meet the current market needs and preferences. This approach not only enhances consumer satisfaction but also contributes to the broader adoption and appreciation of naturally dyed garments, aligning with sustainable and eco-friendly fashion trends.
Starting from satisfaction and importance and combining the dimensions of satisfaction, in this study, we constructed a satisfaction support system for naturally dyed garments. By applying the Better–Worse coefficient formula, the sensitivity values and importance rankings of each demand item were calculated. The top five demands in terms of importance are Comfort (C1), Eco-friendly Dyeing Technology (B3), Safety (C3), Biodegradability (B1), and Durability (C2). These indicators, which have the highest sensitivity coefficients among all 30 demand indicators, are the main concerns of consumers and should thus be the focus of and a priority in product R&D. The aforementioned five indicators demonstrate that the primary factors influencing the demand of Chinese consumers for natural dyed clothing during its emergence stage are a product’s wearing experience and environmental protection characteristics. Primarily, consumers prioritize a superior sense of comfort when it comes to natural dyed clothing, with this demand surpassing their desire for visually appealing designs. Secondly, Chinese consumers are becoming increasingly conscious of environmental issues and seek to minimize negative impacts on the environment while enjoying high-quality products. Simultaneously, there is a relatively high demand among consumers for the environmental sustainability attributes of natural dyed clothing. This indicates that Chinese consumers exhibit a strong inclination towards embracing eco-friendly alternatives and are associated with favorable market prospects for enterprises engaged in designing and developing relevant sustainable products, thereby facilitating an environmentally conscious transformation of production methods. In addition, these indicators belong to the dimensions of product performance and craftsmanship, suggesting that to maintain consumer satisfaction with naturally dyed garments, these two dimensions should be focused on first. For instance, in the product performance dimension, companies should strictly control product quality to produce comfortable, safe, and durable products. Comfort should include both the tactile comfort of the fabric and the comfort of the design, such as the fit of clothing and comfort during movement. Safety should meet relevant standards, and testing reports should be provided to reassure consumers. Regarding durability, the focus should be on improving color fastness and other related technical developments to increase product lifespan. Regarding craftsmanship, attention should be paid to eco-friendly technology development and highlighting the environmentally friendly features of naturally dyed garments in marketing strategies. For the demands ranked 6–10, namely, Purchase Method (D2), High-Quality Fabric (A5), Fashionability (A1), Easy Care (C4), and After-sales Service (D5), these indicators belong to the dimensions of product experience, design, and performance. These demands indicate that consumers seek more convenience throughout a product’s lifecycle, from purchase to use and after-sales. Therefore, companies should pay close attention to these demands, focusing on product performance R&D, expanding sales channels, and providing comprehensive after-sales services. For example, wrinkle-resistant, easy-care fabrics are highly favored by consumers, so R&D departments should prioritize these types of functional fabrics. In terms of sales, continuously expanding sales channels, particularly focusing on the consumption habits of contemporary consumers, and vigorously developing online sales platforms are important. Promotion and publicity via new media will provide consumers with more options and channels for purchasing naturally dyed garments. In regard to after-sales service, a clear return and exchange policy is essential, along with repair and maintenance services and convenient laundry services for special-care items. Providing professional services can save consumers time and enhance their experience. Lastly, High-Quality Fabric (A5) and Fashionability (A1) are design-related demands, indicating consumer interest in high-quality, fashionable products. Therefore, during the design process, attention should be paid to current trends while selecting pure natural fiber materials to emphasize the high quality of garments.
Starting from the types of product demands, the survey results indicate that the Must-be Quality (M) demands for naturally dyed garments are Comfort (C1), Safety (C3), Easy Care (C4), Sustainability (B2), Classic Style (A6), Clear Labeling (A9), and Natural Color Coordination (A3). Improving these aspects presents a challenge, as Must-be Quality demands are often fundamental and expected by consumers by default. Enhancements in these areas do not necessarily lead to greater satisfaction, but if these basic functionalities fail to meet expectations, they can significantly negatively impact consumer satisfaction. Among these attributes, Comfort (C1), Safety (C3), and Easy Care (C4) fall under the product performance dimension. Sustainability (B2) is part of the product functionality dimension, and Classic Style (A6), Clear Labeling (A9), and Natural Color Coordination (A3) are within the product design dimension. These results indicate that consumers’ most basic needs for naturally dyed products are concentrated on a product’s performance and design. Among these seven indicators, the top three in terms of the sensitivity coefficient are Comfort (C1), Safety (C3), and Easy Care (C4), highlighting that the wear and usage experience of a product are foundational in enhancing consumer satisfaction. Therefore, in subsequent product development, regardless of the addition or optimization of other features, it is crucial to avoid overlooking the safety, comfort, and practical durability of a product. Ensuring that these fundamental needs are met is essential for maintaining and enhancing consumer satisfaction with naturally dyed garments. This approach not only satisfies the immediate needs of consumers but also lays a solid foundation for developing long-lasting and valued products for release to the market.
Eco-friendly dyeing technology (B3), biodegradability (B1), durability (C2), purchasing methods (D2), high-quality fabrics (A5), and fashionability (A1) all fall under the category of One-dimensional Quality (O) demands. These demands have a proportional relationship with customer satisfaction; the more they are met, the higher the consumer satisfaction. Conversely, unmet expectations lead to increased dissatisfaction, although not as significantly as with basic needs. Among these six indicators, eco-friendly dyeing technology (B3) and biodegradability (B1) rank the highest in terms of sensitivity coefficients, indicating that as environmental awareness increases, consumers pay more attention to the eco-friendliness of products. Therefore, product development can involve greater investment in eco-friendly dyeing technology, minimizing environmental impacts while meeting consumer needs. Additionally, marketing strategies can leverage new media to amplify the promotion of the eco-friendly aspects of naturally dyed garments, thereby significantly enhancing consumer satisfaction and expanding the consumer market. The need for durability (C2), purchasing methods (D2), high-quality fabrics (A5), and fashionability (A1) indicates a high demand for product quality, convenience in relation to purchasing methods, and stylish design. Future developments should focus on strict quality control, the innovation of styles and fabrics, and expanding sales channels to meet these diverse consumer demands.
Attractive Quality demands can offer consumers unexpected delights without creating excessive expectations. Therefore, these demands can significantly enhance consumer satisfaction. However, even when these expectations are not met, consumers do not express marked dissatisfaction. Ordered by sensitivity coefficients, the Attractive Quality demands are as follows: After-sales Service (D5), Cultural Content (E4), Easy to Match (A7), Clothing Recycling (D6), Cost-effectiveness (D1), Traditional Craftsmanship (B4) > Social Needs (E2), Functional Health Properties (C5), Packaging Design (A8), and Ethnic Features (A4). These demands encompass all five dimensions of naturally dyed garments, indicating a diversity in consumer needs. Among these ten Attractive Quality demands, three are related to product experience, namely, After-sales Service (D5), Clothing Recycling (D6), and Cost-effectiveness (D1), all with relatively high sensitivity coefficients. This suggests that enhancing and optimizing consumer-experience-related products and services can improve customer loyalty and effectively increase satisfaction. Furthermore, Cultural Content (E4), Traditional Craftsmanship (B4), and Ethnic Features (A4) are all related to traditional culture. This indicates that deep engagement with traditional cultural features can effectively enhance consumer identification with naturally dyed garments, thereby serving the purpose of increasing consumer satisfaction.
Finally, Indifferent Quality demands are those that do not affect consumer experience, whether provided or not. Esthetic needs (E1), styling suggestions (D4), social responsibility (E5), life philosophy (E3), product promotion (D3), personalization (A2), and custom-made services (D7) all belong to this category. Among these, esthetic needs (E1), social responsibility (E5), and life philosophy (E3) are requirements that are somewhat vague and conceptual, reflecting a product’s philosophy rather than its tangible features. Their classification as Indifferent Quality demands suggests that current consumers are more focused on the specific functions of naturally dyed garments, with clearer preferences. Additionally, custom-made services (D7), ranking last in terms of sensitivity, and personalization (A2), ranking second to last, indicate that consumers currently do not place much importance on personalized services or individualistic design styles in naturally dyed garments. They do not seek to express unique fashion concepts through these products. As shown earlier, consumer expectations for differentiation in naturally dyed garments are more focused on eco-friendly attributes. However, these findings are not absolute. According to the KANO model theory, the categorization of attributes is not fixed and may change over time [
82]. A demand’s attribute might transform over time from left to right (I-A-O-M), meaning an Indifferent Quality might become an Attractive Quality, which, in turn, might become a One-dimensional Quality and eventually a Must-be Quality. Therefore, completely ignoring Indifferent Quality demands is unscientific. Developers of naturally dyed garments should use modern technologies, like the internet and big data, to appropriately track these Indifferent Quality indicators and adjust strategies in a timely manner.
The integration of the KANO model and KJ analysis method effectively uncovers the real demands of consumers. Thus, this study can serve as a foundation for future research on the development of naturally dyed garments and the improvement of service quality. The results suggest that increasing consumer involvement in the design process can enhance product development. This approach provides valuable insights and directions for formulating design strategies, ensuring that products not only meet but exceed consumer expectations in terms of both functionality and esthetics. By aligning product features with consumer needs, it is possible to create garments that are not only environmentally friendly but that also resonate strongly with the target market.