3.1. Results of Spectrophotometric Measurements
The percentage of exhaustion of MO during the dyeing of cotton fabric with the addition of electrolytes was barely 8.5%. Still, it increased substantially when the dyeing of cationised cotton fabric was carried out (E = 99.2%). The cationisation of cotton fabric before dyeing caused a formation of the cationic charge on the fabric surface due to the presence of an ammonium group of dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride and the amino group of N-methyldiallyl amine in the commercial product. A covalent bond is formed between functional hydroxyl groups of cellulose fibres and 1-chloro-2,3-epoxypropane, present in the commercial product. It is assumed that dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride and N-methyldiallyl amine are bonded to 1-chloro-2,3-epoxypropane. The presence of a cationic charge on cotton led to increased adsorption of MO onto the cotton fabric. The levelness of dyeing calculated using equations 2 and 3 showed that the sample CT_CO_D is less uniformly dyed (σ(λ) = 1,3, K/S = 7.6, obtained at 430 nm) in contrast to the sample CO_D (σ(λ) = 0.08, K/S = 0.39, obtained at 460 nm). The latter could be attributed to a very narrow LR during cationisation, resulting in non-uniform adsorption of the reactive polyammonium compound to the cellulose fibres reflected in the less uniformly dyed fabric.
The colour measurements of the dyed samples in
Table 3 showed that the lightness (CIE
L*) of the samples decreased after dyeing, which was expected due to the adsorption of the dye during the dyeing process. The CIE
L* value decreases more for the sample CT_CO_D than for the sample CO_D. Just like the CIE
L* value, the CIE
a* and CIE
b* values also changed. After dyeing, samples became redder (CIE
a* is positive) and more yellow (CIE
b* is positive) compared to the undyed sample. The cationisation of the cotton fabric before dyeing led to an additional increase of both values CIE
a* and CIE
b*, which made the sample redder and more yellow. The latter can be seen in
Figure 3. The value of
C*ab increases after dyeing, which means that the samples became more saturated. A higher increase of
C*ab was observed in the cationised dyed sample than in the non-cationised dyed sample, which can be attributed to higher dye adsorption. The values of
hab decreased after dyeing, which was expected.
Treatment of non-cationised and cationised dyed cotton fabric with Rewin MRT after dyeing resulted in desorption of the dye MO from the cotton fabric, which was visually evident from the colour of the treatment bath and the dyed samples themselves. (
Figure 3). The sample CO_D_C became lighter (the value of CIE
L* increased), and the CIE
a* and CIE
b* values decreased compared to the CO_D sample. A slightly smaller decrease of CIELAB values after treatment with Rewin MRT was observed in the sample CT_CO_D_C compared to the sample CT_CO_D. The decrease of the values CIE
a* and CIE
b* is reflected in the decrease of chroma. After treatment with Rewin MRT, the dyed samples became less saturated. The reason for the greater desorption of the dye MO from the sample CO_D was attributed to the lower strength of the dye–fibre interactions compared to the sample CT_CO_D, where the surface of the cotton fabric is cationised. The dye–fibre interactions are stronger due to the electrostatic attractive forces between the cationic quaternary ammonium group of the fibre and the anionic sulphonic group of the dye. If the cellulosic fabric was not cationised before dyeing, only van der Waals forces and H-bonds could be responsible for the adsorption of the anionic dye MO to negatively charged cellulosic fibres in the dyebath.
The reflectance curves in
Figure 4 shows that the sample CO_D reached the lowest reflectance at 460 nm and thus the highest
K/
S value (
Figure 5), while the sample CT_CO_D reached the lowest reflectance at 430 nm and thus the highest
K/
S value. The latter indicated that the cationisation causes a shift of the dye adsorption to lower wavelengths, i.e., a hypsochromic shift. The sample CT_CO_D reached the highest colour depth, which is in good agreement with the percentage of dye exhaustion. After the cationic after-treatment of the samples, the R values at 430 nm or 460 nm increased, and consequently, the values of
K/
S decreased, which can be seen in
Figure 4 and
Figure 5, due to the desorption of the dye MO.
The pH responsiveness of cotton fabric dyed in the presence of an electrolyte was not tested due to the very low adsorption of the MO dye to cotton fabric. It was tested only on dyed samples cationised before dyeing with the immersion of test pieces into buffer solutions of different pH values.
Figure 6 and
Figure 7 show that both samples CT_CO_D and CT_CO_D_C are pH-responsive since the bathochromic shift from 430 nm (sample before immersion) to 450 nm (sample after immersion) was noticed. The colour change was visually detected by the naked eye when the sample was wetted with buffer solution after it was immersed. Due to the very high hydrophilic character of cotton fabric, the response time was shorter than three seconds, even though another five minutes waited for complete colour change at a specific pH value of the buffer.
The
K/
S values of samples immersed in buffer solutions decreased compared to the unsubmerged sample, which was attributed to the dye desorption from the dyed fabric. In
Figure 6, the shift of curves
K/
S vs.
λ was noticed to longer wavelengths or so-called bathochromic shift in buffer solutions of pH values 2.8, 3.0, 3.2, 3.6, and 4.0. The latter was ascribed to the colour change of the samples. In acidic pH, the colour of methyl orange changes from orange (A) to red (B) due to dye protonation, which is presented in
Figure 8.
The CIELAB values of sample CT_CO_D, collected in
Table 4, show that the lightness (CIE
L*) increased with the increase of the pH value from pH 2.8 to 8.0. Values of CIE
a* stay positive and almost unchanged from pH 2.8 to 3.2 but then slightly decrease in pH range from 3.6 to 8.0, whilst the values of CIE
b* increase and stay positive when pH values increase from 2.8 to 8.0. This means the tested samples CT_CO_D become lighter, slightly less red and yellower by increasing pH values from 2.8 to 8.0. The same trend was noticed for sample CT_CO_D_C (
Table 4). The colour change of dyed samples was detected at pH 4.0, the same pH at which the dye MO is responsive in buffer solution (
Figure 9). In the solution, the shift of colour was noticed from 465 nm at pH 4.4–8.0 to 473 nm at pH 4.0 and 505 nm at pH 2.8. This means that the colour of the dye changes from orange to red at lower pH values. The bathochromic shift is clearly seen in
Figure 9. Comparing the absorption spectrum of MO dye in buffer solution with curves of
K/
S vs.
λ shows that the MO dye responses to pH values differ when dissolved in buffer solution than when bonded to cotton fabric. The same behaviour of dye was noticed by researcher Lien Van der Schueren et al. [
5,
9]. It was assumed that the cause for this phenomenon is due to dye–fibre interactions that hinder the dye from reacting faster with H+ ions in acidic buffers, as in the case of buffer solutions where the dye is in free form.
3.2. Results of Colour Fastness
All samples tested have very poor wet fastness (
Table 5), as grade 1 is achieved for the colour change. No staining of the first adjacent fabric was observed for CO_D, CO_D_C and CT_CO_D, while CT_CO_D_C showed stronger staining (grade 3/4). Samples CO_D and CO_D_C, as well as CT_CO_D_C, showed slight staining of the second adjacent fabric (grade 4/5), but sample CO_D_C showed stronger staining (grade 3). Therefore, washing method A1M was only performed on the sample CT_CO_D_C. The result indicates that the sample CT_CO_D_C is unsuitable for washing, as wet fastness could not be proven despite the cationic after-treatment. At the same time, it should be emphasised that the colour difference is visually less noticeable when the fabric is dyed in light (sample CO_D) than in dark (sample CT_CO_D) shades, which could be the reason for the higher visual grades obtained on adjacent fabric for samples CO_D and CO_D_C.
The results of light fastness are summarised in
Table 6. They show that all the samples examined have very poor light fastness (grades 2 to 3). However, the samples CO_D and CO_C are more durable to light than the samples CT_CO_D and CT_CO_D_C. It should be mentioned that the concentration of the dye on the textile substrate may influence the grade, which is visually determined using the blue wool references. Therefore, a higher light fastness (grade 3) was determined for the samples CO_D and CO_C than for the samples CT_CO_D and CT_CO_D_C (grade 2).
Table 7 shows that the MO dye was transferred more to the wet than the adjacent dry fabric during the testing of colour fastness to hot pressing. The latter reflects lower fastness grades. However, the colour change is hardly noticeable (grades from 4 to 4/5), meaning that cotton samples dyed with the MO dye have good to very good fastness to hot pressing. For sample CT_CO_D_C, the fastness grade for the change in colour increases for half grade using a grey scale compared to sample CT_CO_D, which means that the cationic after-treatment increases colour fastness to hot pressing.
The results for rubbing fastness, compiled in
Table 8, show that the tested samples are more resistant to dry rubbing than to wet rubbing. The grades for dry rubbing range from very good (grade 4/5) to excellent (grade 5), while for wet rubbing, they range from good (grade 3) to excellent (grade 5). In addition, the cationic after-treatment increases the colour fastness of both samples CO_D_C and CT_CO_D_C compared to samples CO_D and CT_CO_D.