Sustainable Fashion Choices: Exploring European Consumer Motivations behind Second-Hand Clothing Purchases

Abstract

The second-hand clothing (SHC) market has seen dynamic expansion, driven by shifts in consumer attitudes. However, motivations underlying customer engagement in this market remain largely unexplored. Accordingly, this study investigates factors driving consumer sentiment towards buying used clothing. Data were collected in 2023 from a sample of 254 European consumers. The results show that positive attitudes towards SHC are associated with high levels of economic, hedonic (treasure hunting) and ethical motivations, while strong fashion interest and materialism seem to coincide with more negative evaluations of SHC. Interestingly, treasure hunting motivation emerged as the strongest driver of SHC attitudes, surpassing both economic and ethical motivations, which were similar in strength. However, mediation analysis revealed complex interaction patterns among the attitudinal variables, with the potential of reversing the direction of average regression weights for individuals as well as subgroups of customers. This study offers a more nuanced understanding of consumer behavior in the SHC market. It provides practical recommendations for the marketing strategies of SHC vendors, and lays the groundwork for future research in this area.

1. Introduction

The 21st century has witnessed remarkable growth in the apparel market, characterized by an increase in both global market value and consumer demand (Witek-Hajduk et al. 2022; Caro and Martínez-de-Albéniz 2015). This expansion has been fueled in part by the rise of fast-fashion retailers like H&M and Zara, known for their lean retailing model, which involves producing affordable clothes in small batches with short lead times (Caro and Martínez-de-Albéniz 2015). However, the success of fast-fashion has ignited ethical concerns regarding its contribution to a disposable culture, low social responsibility, and the exploitation of labor rights (The Ethical Consumer Group 2022). Heightened consumer awareness of these issues, amplified by the pervasive influence of social media (Wąsowicz-Zaborek 2018, 2020), emphasizes the need for research into mitigating the unethical impacts of large businesses and exploring more sustainable alternatives within the clothing industry.

Concurrently, the global economic landscape, influenced by factors such as increasing purchasing power in emerging markets and inflationary pressures, has prompted consumers in developed economies to re-evaluate their discretionary spending, potentially favoring alternative channels like resale (Amed et al. 2022). The COVID-19 pandemic has further reshaped consumer behavior, fostering a more thoughtful approach to spending and a shift in clothing acquisition methods, with online channels gaining prominence (Amed et al. 2022; Arora et al. 2020). Although awareness of the fashion industry’s environmental impact is growing, it remains narrowly focused on specific practices, such as clothing recycling and the use of organic materials (Wagner and Heinzel 2020). This situation highlights a pronounced attitude–behavior gap, revealing inconsistencies between eco-friendly attitudes, intentions, concerns and the willingness to pay a premium for environmentally friendly products (Park and Lin 2020; Gupta and Ogden 2009). Despite these challenges, the second-hand clothing (SHC) market has experienced remarkable growth, with projections estimating its value to reach USD 350 billion by 2027, thereby outpacing the overall global apparel market (thredUP 2023).

The motivations behind second-hand clothing (SHC) consumer behavior are multifaceted and complex. Existing research suggests various factors influencing consumer engagement in this market, including economic considerations, the thrill of treasure hunting, and ethical concerns (Williams and Paddock 2003; Guiot and Roux 2010; Ferraro et al. 2016; Ögel 2022). However, a comprehensive understanding of how these motivations interact and influence consumer behavior remains elusive. The interplay between these motivations and other pertinent variables, such as materialistic values, political views, environmental attitudes, and fashion interest, further complicates the picture. While previous studies investigated various motivations for SHC consumption, they often relied on qualitative evidence obtained from small and judgmental samples. Therefore, there is a need for a broader and more integrated understanding of how these determinants interact and influence consumer behavior based on reliable quantitative studies that can provide robust findings. It is also pertinent to probe the role of various motivational drivers among other variables that can conceivably influence consumers’ proclivity to buy SHC. Notably, considering motives for SHC purchases in isolation from other relevant antecedents could result in endogeneity bias in statistical models, often manifested by the presence of spurious correlations.

In response to these dynamic shifts within the apparel industry and the research gaps identified, this study aims to quantitatively investigate the attitudes of Europeans towards purchasing second-hand clothes, with a particular focus on uncovering the most potent motivators driving purchase intentions.

This article begins with a concise literature review, offering relevant academic perspectives on the motivations of SHC consumers. The conceptual framework for analyzing these motivations and the methodological approach for their investigation are elaborated upon in the methods section. Subsequent sections detail the findings of this study and discuss how these results intersect with previous research by other authors. This paper concludes with this study’s limitations and directions for further research.

2. Literature Review

2.1. Taxonomies of Consumer Motivations in the Second-Hand Clothing Market

To better understand the factors underlying consumer behavior in the second-hand market for cloths, past research has explored various categorizations of motivations. Motivations are broadly defined as the determinants of an individual’s actions, encompassing wishes, needs, emotions, passions, interests, beliefs, values, fantasies, imaginary representations, personal complexes, habits, deep-seated attitudes, opinions, and aspirations (Guiot and Roux 2010). Consumer behavior research frequently relies on two common taxonomies involving the split between intrinsic and extrinsic motives or the distinction between hedonic and utilitarian shopping.

Extrinsic motives are driven by external rewards or outcomes, such as social recognition, financial gain, or environmental benefits, while intrinsic motives arise from internal factors, such as personal enjoyment, self-expression, or ethical values (Zahid et al. 2023). Utilitarian motives focus on practical benefits and functional aspects, such as finding affordable clothing or reducing waste, whereas hedonic motives center on pleasure-seeking and emotional aspects, such as the thrill of the hunt or expressing individuality. Utilitarian shopping tends to satisfy everyday needs without much regard for personal desires, while hedonic shopping is experiential, lying outside the constraints of necessity and directed towards fulfilling individual desires (Bardhi and Arnould 2005). Thus, the extrinsic/intrinsic taxonomy emphasizes the source of motivation (external rewards vs. internal satisfaction), while the utilitarian/hedonic taxonomy focuses on the nature of the motivation (practical benefits vs. pleasure and enjoyment). Extrinsic motives include social influence, which is not explicitly covered in the utilitarian/hedonic framework.

Researchers studying second-hand clothing often adopt a more granular view of motivations, frequently identifying more dimensions than the aforementioned categories. This has been accomplished by implicitly subdividing and/or recombining one or more aspects of the extrinsic/intrinsic and utilitarian/hedonic taxonomies. For instance, Ferraro et al. (2016) examined consumers’ second-hand buying behavior through the lens of consumption theory, identifying economic motives, fashion motivations, and recreational motivations as key drivers behind second-hand purchases. Padmavathy et al. (2019) used insights from the hierarchical theory of shopping motivations to identify economic, convenience, and ideological motivations as significant positive influences on consumer attitudes and repurchase intentions.

Drawing on these theoretical elements and inspired by the works of Williams and Paddock (2003), Guiot and Roux (2010) and Ögel (2022), we take a comprehensive view of motivational drivers of second-hand clothing (SHC) attitudes and behavior. In addition to the three broad dimensions of economic (utilitarian), hedonic, and ethical determinants (each with its distinct subdimensions), we extend our set of antecedents to include constructs encapsulating one’s materialism, political views, and fashion interests. This study’s unique aspect is its exhaustive selection of determinants of SHC attitudes, which offers a more complete picture than much existing research and helps avoid endogeneity problems, which can result in spurious correlations due to omitted variables. Moreover, by considering mostly intrinsic motivations for engaging in second-hand clothing, our study responds to a recent call for a more thorough exploration of psychological underpinnings of consumer experience in this market (Gilal et al. 2024).

The rest of this section provides an overview of pertinent motivations and develops hypotheses for their purported links with SHC attitudes.

2.2. Economic Motivations

Economic motivations pertain to the financial aspects of second-hand shopping, including the desire to pay less, find fair prices, hunt for bargains, and make the most of one’s budget (Guiot and Roux 2010). A dominant view of consumers’ motives for acquiring second-hand clothing has been that they have either economically or hedonically oriented reasons for their clothing choices (Laitala and Klepp 2018). This perspective aligns economic motivations with the concept of utilitarian motives, suggesting a close relationship. While utilitarian drivers encompass a broader range of factors, such as store location or product availability, these additional benefits may be less significant in the context of shopping for second-hand clothing compared to the desire for lower, fair prices, and bargains. This could explain why many authors have favored the construct of economic motivations over utilitarian ones. Opting for this conceptualization allows for a more focused measurement scale, avoiding less relevant manifestations of the construct.

Economic motivations for engaging with the SHC market are acknowledged in the literature as the most comprehensively understood. As early as 2003, Williams and Paddock observed that the decision to shop at second-hand stores was often influenced by the consumer’s economic limitations, a trend particularly evident among marginalized and disadvantaged groups who might lack access to conventional retail channels (Williams and Paddock 2003). This observation raises the question of whether the choice to shop for SHC is driven solely by necessity or if there are other, more deliberate reasons behind this consumer behavior.

Subsequent studies have indicated that the average SHC customer is motivated by a desire to minimize expenditure across various types of product categories, seeking to stretch their budget further (Guiot and Roux 2010; Ferraro et al. 2016). Guiot and Roux additionally highlighted the gratification consumers derive from the price aspect of SHC purchases: the satisfaction of acquiring desired items without sacrificing other necessities due to the advantageous pricing. Ferraro et al. proposed that this motivation may also stem from an awareness of the indirect price discrimination between second-hand items and goods sold in traditional retail stores, with customers recognizing the often inflated pricing in the latter (Ferraro et al. 2016). Based on these insights, the first hypothesis of the current study was formulated as follows:

H1. 

Economic motivation is positively correlated with the attitude towards buying second-hand clothing.

2.3. Hedonic Motivations

While economic factors are often cited as the primary, and perhaps most pragmatic, motivations for shopping at second-hand (SH) stores, a deeper exploration of the literature reveals a more nuanced picture. Beyond merely managing budgets, customers’ decisions to purchase specific goods from SH stores can also stem from process-oriented motivations that transcend basic physiological and safety needs (Maslow 1970; Kiehn and Vojkovic 2018). Indeed, the allure of SHC shopping can be linked to fulfilling higher-order needs in Maslow’s hierarchy, such as love and belonging, esteem, and self-actualization.

Several scholars have identified a dimension of recreational (hedonic) motivations associated with SHC shopping. This dimension diverges from economic motivations by focusing not on societal differences in purchasing power but on the inherent attractiveness of SHC goods and the unique shopping experiences they offer, such as innovative store designs (Guiot and Roux 2010). Drawing from marketing insights on alternative retail outlets from the late 20th century, Guiot and Roux observed that these stores appeal to customers for various reasons: their unpredictable and diverse inventory, visual stimulation, the thrill of discovering unique items, the sense of accomplishment from bargain hunting, and opportunities for social interaction and community building (Belk et al. 1988; Gregson and Crewe 1997; Sherry 1990; Soiffer and Herrmann 1987; Stone et al. 1996). The form of presentation of a clothing product can also be important in the context of online shopping. As Bagatini et al. (2023) showed, consumers are more prone to select and express the intention to purchase products whose images evoke greater embodied mental simulation, which is the cognitive process where individuals imagine themselves interacting with or using a product based on visual cues, such as images.

These attributes create a compelling proposition for consumers whose purchasing behavior is driven by emotional fulfillment and the desire for entertainment, akin to the experiences of museum and exhibition visitors (DeLong et al. 2005; Kaczmarek 2017).

Interestingly, Wang et al. (2022) posited that among younger consumers, recreational motives might play a more significant role than economic ones, particularly in markets like China where the traditional SHC sector is relatively niche. This limited visibility could amplify curiosity and interest among consumers, further elevating the importance of hedonic motivations.

In addition to the thrill of the hunt and the desire for unique items, the social and interactive aspects of second-hand shopping can also contribute to hedonic motivations. Bilro and Loureiro (2023) found that consumers’ intrinsic motivations, such as the desire for self-expression, connection, and a sense of belonging within a community, play a crucial role in driving engagement in online brand communities. Similarly, Zhang et al. (2023) investigating online ride-sharing platforms, found that interpersonal interactions, aimed at building relationships, fostered loyalty through social-hedonic benefits. Moreover, Jiang et al. (2022) revealed significant effects of consumer reviews, peer influence, and app developers’ reputation on perceived consumer value and adoption intention in the context of online marketplaces. These findings suggest that similar dynamics might extend to the second-hand clothing market, where consumers may derive pleasure not only from the products themselves but also from the social interactions and sense of community fostered within these spaces, particularly in connection to the process of bargain hunting. This highlights the potential for second-hand retailers to create engaging and interactive environments, both online and offline, to further enhance the hedonic appeal of second-hand shopping.

Given these insights, the second hypothesis will be centered on arguably the most pertinent aspect of hedonic motivations for SHC shopping:

H2. 

Treasure hunting motivation is positively correlated with the attitude towards buying second-hand clothing.

2.4. Ethical Motivations

While economic and hedonic motivations within the context of SHC consumer behavior have been extensively explored, a relatively new theme in the literature are motivations tied to consumers’ critical evaluations of the environmental and societal impacts of their own and corporate behaviors. Beyond individual motivations, it is crucial to consider the complementary role of a company’s reputation and messaging (Yoon et al. 2023). In some cases, this can even involve demarketing, which Kotler and Levy (1971, p. 75) define as “that aspect of marketing that deals with discouraging customers in general or a certain class of customers in particular on a temporary or permanent basis”. In the context of the second-hand clothing market, fast-fashion companies could potentially employ demarketing to curb consumption and promote reuse of their products.

Guiot and Roux, who were among the first to investigate these motivations in the SHC context, described them as (1) “ethical and ecological concerns that consumers express with regard to recycling and anti-waste” and (2) “distancing and avoidance behavior toward the classic market system” (Guiot and Roux 2010, p. 368).

Guiot and Roux initially highlighted concerns over the general overproduction of consumer goods and its implications for the environment (Guiot and Roux 2010). Ferraro et al. viewed this stance as a deliberate choice, aligning with a broader eco-conscious movement among consumers alarmed by unsustainable and wasteful practices (Ferraro et al. 2016). Xu et al. (2014) noted that environmentally concerned young consumers may regard SHC items as viable and more affordable alternatives to typically expensive eco-friendly products. Ek Styvén and Mariani (2020) approached this dimension through the lens of environmental sensitivity, suggesting a nuanced understanding of consumer motivations. Borusiak et al. (2021) further unpacked these motivations into three components: awareness of the environmental consequences of SH shopping, attribution of responsibility for environmental issues, and individual environmental concern.

Following the above discussion, the third hypothesis was proposed:

H3. 

Personal environmental responsibility is positively correlated with the attitude towards buying second-hand clothing.

This trend of focusing primarily on environmental attitudes among SHC consumers is notable. However, it would also be valuable to consider the broader ethical considerations of corporate responsibility, particularly the social impacts. Negative ramifications at the social level, such as forced labor and the violation of labor rights, cannot be overlooked (The Ethical Consumer Group 2022). Therefore, we propose:

H4. 

Personal social responsibility is positively correlated with the attitude towards buying second-hand clothing.

Guiot and Roux (2010) insightfully linked critical ethical motivations to a sense of consumer sovereignty and anti-ostentation, echoing Mano and Elliott’s concept of smart shopping and Feick et al.’s notion of utilizing shopping expertise to “beat the system” (Feick et al. 1988; Mano and Elliott 1997). This perspective views the acquisition of SH goods as a strategic departure from mass consumption, a sentiment echoed by Ek Styvén and Mariani (2020), who described it as an escape from the pervasive system of mass-market retail.

Such resistance can manifest in behaviors like boycotting or embracing voluntary simplicity. Boycotting, as defined by Friedman (1985), is “an attempt by one or more parties to achieve certain objectives by urging individual consumers to refrain from making selected purchases in the marketplace” (pp. 97–98). Some environmentally conscious companies have taken note of this anti-consumption trend and developed demarketing campaigns. A notable example is Patagonia’s “Don’t Buy This Jacket” campaign, which ultimately led to increased sales of the company’s green product line in the long run (Kim et al. 2018). This suggests that SHC customers may develop a negative attitude towards fast-fashion companies, consequently shifting their brand preferences towards second-hand shops. Hence, we propose:

H5. 

Attitude towards fast-fashion boycotts is positively correlated with the attitude towards buying second-hand clothing.

Voluntary simplicity is a lifestyle choice marked by minimal consumption and a critical view of materialism (Richins and Dawson 1992; Shaw and Newholm 2002; Rebouças and Soares 2021). Due to limited empirical research on this concept, this study employs the scale developed by Richins and Dawson (1992) for the related concept of materialism. According to Richins and Dawson, this concept is composed of three dimensions treated in the current study as separate constructs: acquisition centrality, acquisition as the pursuit of happiness and possession-defines success. Brief outlines of these constructs are provided below.

Acquisition centrality refers to the degree to which individuals place acquiring new clothes at the forefront of their priorities, making it a central aspect of their lives. SH stores, offering goods at lower prices compared to traditional retail outlets, might allow individuals with limited financial resources to indulge in this behavior. Conversely, this drive contrasts sharply with the values of other SHC consumers who prioritize sustainability and aim to reduce overall material consumption. This divergence presents a challenge in predicting the relationship’s direction between acquisition centrality and attitudes towards SHC. Therefore, a non-directional hypothesis is proposed to explore this associative relationship:

H6. 

Acquisition centrality is correlated with the attitude towards buying second-hand clothing.

Some SHC consumers may derive personal happiness from acquiring new items, prioritizing the acquisition over personal relationships, experiences, or achievements. SH apparel, through its uniqueness, affordability, and relatively high quality, may particularly appeal to this consumer segment. However, this materialistic pursuit contrasts with the ethos of critical consumers, who find happiness in intangible aspects of life beyond material possessions. This divergence prompts the formulation of another non-directional hypothesis:

H7. 

Acquisition as the pursuit of happiness is correlated with the attitude towards buying second-hand clothing.

Furthermore, materialism as a concept suggests that some individuals assess success by the quantity and quality of possessions they accumulate, equating material wealth with personal achievement. Within the SHC market, this perspective might resonate with consumers drawn to unique and premium items as symbols of status, seeking to construct a desirable self-image and communicate success through their acquisitions. With the growth of online apparel sales channels, this particular motivation may be further enhanced by the active role of so-called influencers—content creators who provide insights into their experiences with products and brands (Lou and Yuan 2019; Dinh and Lee 2022). Yet, this materialistic viewpoint stands in opposition to that of critical consumers, who place greater value on personal virtues and communal values over material wealth. This contrast raises questions about the role of possessions in defining success for SHC consumers, leading to the development of another hypothesis:

H8. 

Possession-defined success is correlated with the attitude towards buying second-hand clothing.

2.5. Fashion Interest and Other Motivations

The motivations previously discussed do not entirely capture the breadth of factors influencing SHC consumer attitudes. Some scholars highlight the allure of status and recognition that certain consumers find in SHC, viewing the recent surge in demand as part of a broader fashion trend or a desire for individuality through the uniqueness of clothing pieces. Ferraro et al. categorize these as fashion motivations, defining them as “the degree to which shoppers believe second-hand products are fashionable” (Ferraro et al. 2016, p. 264). Specifically, these motivations are often associated with vintage clothing—“authentic and rare pieces that represent the style of a particular couturier or era” (Gerval 2010, p. 22). The mentioned authenticity and rareness are often given as a reason for the higher pricing as compared to other SHC (Cervellon et al. 2012). The uniqueness and authenticity of such items frequently justify their higher prices compared to other SHC goods (Cervellon et al. 2012). Typically, stores specializing in vintage merchandise, once known as second-hand or thrift shops, cater to this niche (Cervellon et al. 2012). The association between fashion and SHC purchases remains nuanced. On one hand, some second-hand stores focus on vintage or designer items, linking them explicitly with luxury and fashion. On the other hand, consumers might eschew fast-fashion chains for reasons of environmental and social responsibility, rejecting mainstream fashion trends. This leads to the following hypothesis:

H9. 

Interest in fashion is correlated with the attitude towards buying second-hand clothing.

Finally, considering the growing engagement of the younger generation with political issues and SHC, it is pertinent to examine the interplay between political views and consumer attitudes towards SHC. This inquiry gains depth when contrasted with ethical motivations, assessing which has a more pronounced impact. Two dimensions emerge: individual liberty, concerning the prioritization of personal freedoms over communal well-being; and the role of government, relating to beliefs about governmental responsibility in addressing societal and economic challenges. The first is hypothesized to inversely correlate with SHC attitudes due to a stronger emphasis on personal choice and individual expression through purchasing decisions. Conversely, a positive correlation is anticipated with the latter, reflecting a preference for governmental intervention in environmental matters and a collective approach to responsibility. Thus:

H10. 

Political view on individual liberty is negatively correlated with the attitude towards buying second-hand clothing.

H11. 

Political view on the government role in society is positively correlated with the attitude towards buying second-hand clothing.

3. The Research Method

3.1. The Conceptual Model

Motivations behind attitudes towards second-hand clothing can be looked at from many angles. This study adopts a tripartite framework to examine these motivations from distinct yet interrelated perspectives (see Figure 1). The first dimension (represented in dark grey, H1–H5) explores primary reasons for purchasing SHC, considering ethical, economic, and hedonic motivations. The second perspective (light grey, H6–H8) relates to consumers’ personal views on material possessions and their impact on perceived happiness and personal success. These approach is largely based on the quantitative framework proposed by Richins and Dawson (1992) and is closely related to the concept of voluntary simplicity. The third dimension (white, H9–H11) extends beyond direct SHC motivations to examine broader consumer interests, such as fashion trends, and political views regarding individual liberty and the role of government in society. This inclusion broadens the conceptual model’s scope, facilitating a comprehensive understanding of the factors that may indirectly influence SHC consumption patterns.

Attitude towards buying second-hand clothing is operationalized as a construct comprising three directly measurable variables. This operationalization draws from the Theory of Planned Behavior (TPB), which posits that an individual’s behavioral intentions are a function of their attitudes, subjective norms, and perceived behavioral control (Taylor and Todd 1995). However, given the challenges associated with predicting future consumer behavior through survey methods, this study will focus exclusively on attitudes, as an acceptable predictor of future behavior. This methodological decision aligns with similar approaches in the literature, such as those by McNeill and Moore (2015), and Park and Lin (2020).

3.2. Measurement Scales

To operationalize the reflective constructs identified in the conceptual model, this study employed Likert-type scales with items derived from existing literature. Respondents were presented with a series of statements and asked to indicate their level of agreement using a six-point scale, ranging from “strongly agree” to “strongly disagree”. The selection of a six response options aims to encourage respondents to take a definitive stance on each statement, as the absence of a neutral midpoint requires a more deliberate evaluation of their attitudes towards the topics presented. This approach is intended to minimize central tendency bias, where respondents might otherwise default to a neutral option (Zaborek 2016).

The full list of items used in the survey is presented in

Table 1. Likert-Type Survey Items.

Construct	Item	Source
Materialism (Possession-defined Success)	Mat_suc1. I admire people who own expensive homes, cars, and clothes.	Richins and Dawson (1992)
	Mat_suc2. Some of the most important achievement in life include acquiring material possessions.
	Mat_suc3. I don’t place much emphasis on the amount of material objects people own as a sign of success. *
	Mat_suc4. The things I own say a lot about how well I’m doing in life.
	Mat_suc5. I like to own things that impress people.
	Mat_suc6. I don’t pay much attention to the material objects other people own. *
Materialism (Acquisition Centrality)	Mat_cen1. I usually buy only the things I need. *
	Mat_cen2. I try to keep my life simple, as far as possessions are concerned. *
	Mat_cen3. The things I own aren’t all that important to me. *
	Mat_cen4. I enjoy spending money on things that aren’t practical.
	Mat_cen5. Buying things gives me a lot of pleasure.
	Mat_cen6. I like a lot of luxury in my life.
	Mat_cen7. I put less emphasis on material things than most people I know. *
Materialism (Acquisition as the Pursuit of Happiness)	Mat_hap1. I have all the things I really need to enjoy my life. *
	Mat_hap2. My life would be better if I owned certain things I don’t have.
	Mat_hap3. I wouldn’t be any happier if I owned nicer things. *
	Mat_hap4. I’d be happier if I could afford to buy more things.
	Mat_hap5. It sometimes bothers me quite a bit that I can’t afford to buy all the things I’d like.
Interest in Fashion	Fas1. I keep up-to-date with the changing (i.e., latest) fashions	O’Cass and Siahtiri (2013)
	Fas2. The latest fashionable, attractive styling is important to me
	Fas3. I generally try to keep up to date with the latest fashions
	Fas4. I am fashion conscious
Political Views (Individual Liberty)	Pol1. Society works best when it lets individuals take responsibility for their own lives without telling them what to do.	Harper and Rhodes (2021)
	Pol2. I think everyone should be free to do as they choose, so long as they don’t infringe upon the equal freedoms of others.
	Pol3. People who are successful in business have a right to enjoy their wealth as they see fit.
	Pol4. The government interferes far too much in our everyday lives
	Pol5. The government should do more to advance the common good, even if that means limiting the freedom and choices of individuals. *
Political Views (Government’s Role in Society)	Pol6. The government should do more to help needy people, even if it means going deeper into debt.	Gross and Simmons (2014)
	Pol7. The government should see to it that every person has a job and a good standard of living.
	Pol8. Business corporations make too much profit.
Attitude towards second-hand clothing shopping	Att1. I like the idea the idea of buying second-hand clothes	Adapted from: Taylor and Todd (1995)—THB
	Att2. Purchasing second-hand clothes is a good idea
	Att3. I have a good attitude towards using second-hand clothes
Economic Motivation	Ecn1. I can afford more clothes because I pay less second-hand	Guiot and Roux (2010)
	Ecn2. One can have more clothes for the same amount of money if one buys second-hand
	Ecn3. I feel that I have lots of clothes for not much money by buying them second-hand
	Ecn4. I don’t want to pay more for the piece of clothes just because it’s new
	Ecn5. By buying second-hand, I feel I’m paying a fair price for clothes
Treasure Hunting Motivation	Tre1. I like wandering around second-hand outlets because I always hope I’ll come across a real find
	Tre2. I go to certain second-hand outlets to rummage around and try to find something
	Tre3. I’m often on the look-out for a find when I go to certain second-hand outlets
	Tre4. In certain second-hand outlets, I feel rather like a treasure hunter
Personal social responsibility	Res_soc1. I will not buy clothes if I know that the company that sells it is socially irresponsible	Adapted from Sudbury-Riley and Kohlbacher (2016)
	Res_soc2. I do not buy clothes from companies that I know use sweatshop labor, child labor, or other poor working conditions.
	Res_soc3. I have paid more for socially responsible products when there is a cheaper alternative
Personal environmental responsibility	Res_env1. When there is a choice, I always choose clothes that contribute to the least amount of environmental damage
	Res_env2. I have switched to second-hand clothes for environmental reasons
	Res_env3. If I understand the potential damage to the environment that some clothes can cause, I do not purchase those clothes
	Res_env4. I have paid more for environmentally friendly clothes when there is a cheaper alternative.
Attitude towards fast-fashion boycotts	Boy1. To abstain from buying clothes from fast fashion shops is a very efficient way to make a company change its actions	Adapted from Cruz (2016)
	Boy2. I would feel guilty if I bought fast fashion clothes
	Boy3. Everyone should stop buying fast fashion clothes, because every contribution, no matter how small, is very important
	Boy4. I would feel uncomfortable if the people that abstain from buying fast fashion products would see me buying or wearing them
	Boy5. As I don’t buy many fast fashion clothes, my boycotting would not me significant
	Boy6. By boycotting, I can help make fast fashion companies change their decision

Sources: Own elaboration. Note: The items with an “*” symbol has been reverse coded in order to capture the opposite perspective of the chosen constructs’ dimensions.

.

3.3. Statistical Analysis

The analysis of the survey data commenced with exploratory factor analysis (EFA) using R, a critical step aimed at uncovering the latent structure within the variables derived from the Likert-scale items related to SHC shopping behaviors. EFA was instrumental in identifying potential factors that encapsulate the various dimensions of consumer attitudes and motivations as indicated by their responses (Hair et al. 2014). This initial analysis provided an empirical basis for refining the set of items and ensuring that they accurately represent the constructs of interest in the conceptual model.

Following the EFA, confirmatory factor analysis (CFA) was conducted to validate the factor structure identified during the exploratory phase. CFA differs from EFA in that it tests a predefined measurement model based on theoretical expectations, assessing the model’s fit to the empirical data. This was achieved by comparing the covariance matrix of the sample data with the covariance matrix predicted by the model, thereby evaluating the adequacy of the model structure proposed by the researcher (Hair et al. 2014).

With the factor structure established and validated, the next phase involved multiple linear regression analysis. This technique was employed to examine the relationships between the dependent variable (attitude towards SHC) and a set of independent variables. These independent variables included the constructs identified through factor analysis as well as demographic factors such as gender, education, and age, which were considered for their potential influence on SHC attitudes.

To further refine the model and increase its explanatory power, additional analyses exploring potential moderation effects were undertaken. Investigating these effects was crucial for identifying conditions under which the relationships between SHC attitudes and other variables might change, thereby offering deeper insights into the dynamics influencing consumer behavior in the SHC market (Wooldridge 2019).

4. Research Results

4.1. Sample Characteristics

Data for the survey were collected in June 2023 from international English-language social media groups on Facebook such as “Second-hand items in Zürich” and “SecondHandy Lumpeksy Warszawa”. Within a month 331 responses were collected, of which 254 included complete sets of answers.

Table 2. Characteristics of the Study Sample.

Gender		Age		Country of Residence
Female	74%	<16	0%	Poland	41.70%	Armenia	0.40%
Male	22%	16–20	12%	Switzerland	22.40%	Canada	0.40%
Non-binary/third	2%	21–25	41%	Germany	9.40%	Czech Republic	0.40%
Prefer not to say	1%	26–30	11%	Romania	5.10%	Hungary	0.40%
		31–35	13%	France	3.90%	Italy	0.40%
		36–40	7%	Netherlands	3.90%	Russia	0.40%
		41–45	6%	United Kingdom	2.80%	Slovakia	0.40%
		46–50	4%	Georgia	1.20%	Spain	0.40%
		51–55	3%	Sweden	0.80%	United States	0.40%
		56–60	2%	Belgium	0.80%	Vietnam	0.40%
		>60	1%	Denmark	0.40%
				Assessment of personal financial situation
Education				Because of my money situation, I feel like I will never have the things I want in my life.
Less than High School			1%	Strongly disagree		15%
High School graduate			19%	Disagree		42%
Bachelor’s degree			40%	Somewhat disagree		25%
Master’s degree			35%	Somewhat agree		13%
Professional degree			3%	Agree		4%
Doctoral degree			1%	Strongly agree		2%
I prefer not to say			2%
Assessment of personal financial situation
I can enjoy my life because of the way I’m managing my money.			I could easily handle an unexpected expense of USD 300.			I have money left at the end of the month.
Strongly disagree		1%	Strongly disagree		6%	Strongly dis.	3%
Disagree		6%	Disagree		13%	Disagree	9%
Somewhat disagree		15%	Somewhat disagree		12%	Somewhat dis.	8%
Somewhat agree		33%	Somewhat agree		25%	Somewhat agr.	22%
Agree		36%	Agree		26%	Agree	36%
Strongly agree		10%	Strongly agree		18%	Strongly agr.	22%
Declared SHC shopping behavior
Other types of SH goods normally bought					Place of SHC shopping
Shoes				31%	Specialized SH shops		74%
Books, movies, music and games				55%	Peer-to-peer platforms		37%
Bags and Accessories				52%	Markets and bazaars		24%
Consumer electronics				25%	Family and friends		22%
Furniture and household goods				48%	Other		4%
Household appliances				20%
Toys and baby products				16%
Other				6%
SHC budget (from		SHC spendings		Shopping Frequency		Last time of SHC shopping
monthly clothing budget)		last month
<20%	67%	<EUR 10	56%	2–4 a week	1%	<4 days	11%
21–40%	9%	EUR 10–EUR 25	24%	1 a week	6%	<7 days	9%
41–60%	9%	EUR 26–EUR 50	11%	1 a month	25%	<1 month	25%
61–80%	7%	EUR 51–EUR 100	6%	1 every few months	43%	<few months	27%
81–100%	7%	EUR 101–EUR 200	1%	1 every few years	20%	<1 year	12%
		>EUR 200	2%	Never	5%	<few years	12%
						Never	4%

Source: Own elaboration.

describes the sample structure in terms of socio-economical characteristic of the respondents.

4.2. Exploratory and Confirmatory Factor Analysis

Utilizing the principal axis factoring method, EFA identified 10 distinct factors that encapsulate motivations influencing consumers’ attitudes towards SHC, in some instances showing somewhat different dimensionalities than what was suggested by the authors of the employed scales. The subsequent CFA analysis yielded factor loadings presented in

Table 3. CFA Factor Loadings.

	Rspnsb	Mtrlzm	Hedonc	Fashin	Attitd	Econmc	Pltcl1	Pltcl2	Mtrlsm	Income
Res_soc2	0.690
Res_env1	0.802
Res_env3	0.842
Boy2	0.621
Mat_suc2		0.509
Mat_hap2		0.811
Mat_hap3		−0.703
Mat_hap4		0.761
Tre1			0.833
Tre2			0.879
Tre3			0.914
Tre4			0.740
Fas1				0.883
Fas2				0.861
Fas3				0.934
Att1					0.934
Att2					0.830
Att3					0.856
Ecn1						0.834
Ecn2						0.765
Ecn3						0.788
Pol1							0.769
Pol2							0.735
Pol3							0.579
Pol6								0.678
Pol7								0.714
Pol8								0.647
Mat_cen1									0.835
Mat_cen2									0.775
Mat_cen5									−0.587
Inc1										0.709
Inc2										0.698
Inc4										0.761
Indicator	CFI	TLI	RMSEA	SPMR
Value	0.942	0.932	0.045	0.062

Source: Own elaboration.

indicating acceptable levels of average variance extracted. The factor model’s goodness of fit was evaluated with standard CFA metrics, including CFI, TLI, RMSEA, SPMR, which all revealed high levels of consistence with empirical data. Discriminant validity was examined through the Fornell–Larcker criterion, which showed that the average factor loadings for respective latent variables were greater than the maximum correlation coefficient with the other constructs in the model. Therefore, the latent variables share more variance with their indicators than with any other latent variable in the model, which demonstrates discriminant validity.

4.3. Ordinary Least Squares Regression

The factor “Attitude towards Buying SHC” was used as the dependent variable in the regression analysis, with the remaining factors acting as independent variables. To explore the mediating effects and observe changes in explanatory power, three increasingly complex models were constructed. The final model was examined for heteroscedasticity and multicollinearity. The Brausch–Pagan test yielded the t-statistic equal to 47.942 with a p-value of 0.071, which suggests that the spread of residuals is consistent across the model’s variables. Tolerance statistics for all terms in the third model exceeded the threshold of 0.2, indicating the absence of severe multicollinearity issues.

As seen in

Table 4. Results of OLS Regression Analysis.

	SHC Attitude		SHC Attitude		SHC Attitude
Predictors	Estimates	p	Estimates	p	Estimates	p
(Intercept)	0.00 (−0.08–0.08)	1.000	−0.17 (−0.46–0.11)	0.230	−0.25 (−0.54–0.04)	0.094
economic	0.20 (0.11–0.30)	<0.001	0.19 (0.09–0.29)	<0.001	0.29 (0.05–0.52)	0.016
hedonic	0.39 (0.30–0.47)	<0.001	0.40 (0.31–0.49)	<0.001	0.37 (0.28–0.45)	<0.001
responsibility	0.16 (0.04–0.28)	0.011	0.16 (0.03–0.29)	0.020	0.23 (0.11–0.36)	<0.001
materialism1	−0.05 (−0.14–0.05)	0.329	−0.03 (−0.13–0.08)	0.623	−0.05 (−0.15–0.05)	0.310
materialism2	−0.17 (−0.33–−0.02)	0.029	−0.17 (−0.35–0.00)	0.051	−0.38 (−0.87–0.11)	0.127
fashion	−0.12 (−0.20–−0.04)	0.003	−0.12 (−0.20–−0.04)	0.005	−0.14 (−0.21–−0.06)	0.001
political1	−0.13 (−0.24–−0.03)	0.014	−0.11 (−0.23–0.00)	0.052	−0.08 (−0.19–0.03)	0.144
political2	0.05 (−0.09–0.18)	0.495	0.03 (−0.12–0.18)	0.702	0.23 (−0.01–0.47)	0.065
income	0.09 (−0.01–0.19)	0.064	0.10 (−0.00–0.21)	0.054	0.12 (0.02–0.23)	0.016
age			−0.07 (−0.17–0.03)	0.172	0.09 (−0.09–0.28)	0.323
gender			0.13 (−0.09–0.35)	0.251	0.24 (0.02–0.45)	0.034
country			0.02 (−0.16–0.20)	0.845	0.09 (−0.07–0.26)	0.280
education			0.07 (−0.17–0.31)	0.571	0.04 (−0.18–0.27)	0.708
materialism1 × fashion					0.12 (0.06–0.19)	<0.001
materialism2 × age					−0.24 (−0.40–−0.08)	0.003
responsibility × political1					−0.18 (−0.33–−0.03)	0.017
political2 × gender					−0.30 (−0.55–−0.05)	0.019
age × gender					−0.27 (−0.48–−0.06)	0.012
materialism2 × education					0.56 (0.13–0.99)	0.011
economic × age					0.16 (0.06–0.26)	0.002
economic × materialism2					0.17 (0.03–0.30)	0.017
economic × materialism1					0.06 (−0.01–0.14)	0.111
materialism2 × political1					−0.25 (−0.44–−0.05)	0.015
economic × education					−0.19 (−0.43–0.05)	0.123
political1 × age					−0.16 (−0.28–−0.03)	0.013
hedonic × political1					0.09 (−0.00–0.19)	0.061
political2 × income					−0.15 (−0.28–−0.01)	0.034
fashion × political2					0.19 (0.10–0.28)	<0.001
hedonic × political2					−0.15 (−0.24–−0.06)	0.001
materialism1 × income					−0.12 (−0.22–−0.02)	0.021
materialism1 × materialism2					−0.10 (−0.24–0.04)	0.164
political1 × political2					−0.17 (−0.33–−0.00)	0.049
materialism2 × gender					−0.29 (−0.66–0.08)	0.123
economic × income					−0.10 (−0.19–−0.00)	0.044
responsibility × income					0.11 (−0.02–0.24)	0.088
Observations	254		240		240
R2/R2 adjusted	0.549/0.532		0.558/0.533		0.704/0.653

Source: Own elaboration.

, Model 3 offers considerable predictive power. The inclusion of demographic characteristics and significant interaction terms enhanced the variance explained in SHC attitude from 0.53 to 0.65. This increase underscores the importance of integrating these additional predictors for a more comprehensive understanding of attitudes towards SHC.

Attitudinal variables in the regression analysis are continuous and standardized, with the mean of 0, and the standard deviation of 1. Demographic predictors like gender, country of residence, and education level were transformed into dummy variables for analysis. Notably, gender was simplified to male (0) and female (1), with other categories excluded due to very small sample sizes. The authors acknowledge other gender identities, but unfortunately a subgroup of 6 is too small to be suitable for meaningful statistical analysis. The country of residence was dichotomized into Eastern European countries (0) and Western European countries, including one respondent each from the United States and Vietnam (1). Education was categorized into secondary education or less (0) and university degree or higher (1).

In the presence of significant interactions, the interpretation of predictor variables should account for both their main effects and the moderation from other components of the model. Accordingly,

Table 5. Conditional regression effects for predictors in Model 3 with estimates of maximum and minimum regression weights of continuous regressors at 1 or −1 standard deviations.

Predictor	Relevant Hypothesis	Equations for Regression Parameters Describing Conditional Effects of Predictors on the Outcome Variable	Minimum Regression Weight	Maximum Regression Weight
Economic	H1	(0.29 + 0.16 ∗ age + 0.17 ∗ materialism2 + 0.06 ∗ materialism1 − 0.19 ∗ education − 0.1 ∗ income) ∗ economic	−0.39	0.58
Hedonic	H2	(0.37 + 0.09 ∗ political1 − 0.15 ∗ political2) ∗ hedonic	0.13	0.61
Responsibility	H3, H4, H5	(0.23 − 0.18 ∗ political1 + 0.11 ∗ income) ∗ responsibility	−0.06	0.52
Materialism1	H6	(−0.05 + 0.12 ∗ fashion + 0.06 ∗ economic − 0.12 ∗ income − 0.1 ∗ materialism2) ∗ materialism1	−0.45	0.35
Materialism2	H7, H8	(−0.38 − 0.24 ∗ age + 0.56 ∗ education + 0.17 ∗ economic − 0.25 ∗ political1 − 0.1 ∗ materialism1 − 0.29 ∗ gender) ∗ materialism2	−1.99	0.94
Fashion	H9	(−0.14 + 0.12 ∗ materialism1 + 0.19 ∗ political2) ∗ fashion	−0.45	0.17
Political1	H10	(−0.08 − 0.18 ∗ responsibility − 0.16 ∗ age + 0.09 ∗ hedonic − 0.17 ∗ political2) ∗ political1	−0.68	0.52
Political2	H11	(0.23 − 0.3 ∗ gender − 0.15 ∗ income + 0.19 ∗ fashion − 0.15 ∗ hedonic − 0.17 ∗ political1) ∗ political2	−0.73	0.89
Income		(0.12 − 0.15 ∗ political2 − 0.12 ∗ materialism1 − 0.1 ∗ economic + 0.11 ∗ responsibility) ∗ income	−0.36	0.6
Age		(0.09 − 0.24 ∗ materialism2 − 0.27 ∗ gender + 0.16 ∗ economic − 0.16 ∗ political1) ∗ age	−0.74	0.65
Gender		(0.24 − 0.3 ∗ political2 − 0.27 ∗ age − 0.29 ∗ materialism2) ∗ gender	−0.62	1.1
Country		0.09 ∗ Country	0.09	0.09
Education		(0.04 + 0.56 ∗ materialism2 − 0.19 ∗ economic) ∗ education	−0.71	0.79

Source: Own elaboration.

displays the combined effects of all predictors on the dependent variable at typical ranges of values withing one standard deviation around the mean.

The spreads of regression weights outlined in Table 5 allow for the verification of the research hypotheses. The summary of the verification outcomes together with descriptive explanations are provided in

Table 6. Verification outcomes of the research hypotheses.

Hypothesis	Verification Outcome	Explanation
H1	Supported	Economic motivation is positively correlated with the attitude towards buying SHC, particularly when moderating variables are close to their mean values. This motivation may have a stronger effect for individuals who are older, less educated, in an unfavorable financial situation, and exhibit high levels of materialism. Generally, consumers motivated by economic factors are more likely to have a positive attitude towards SHC purchases. However, this relationship is significantly influenced by moderating effects, which may occasionally result in a negative association with SHC attitude.
H2	Supported	The treasure hunting motivation is positively correlated with the attitude towards buying SHC. This motivation consistently shows positive associations when moderating variables are within one standard deviation around the mean, especially for consumers with above-average levels of personal liberty. The effect of treasure hunting motivation on SHC attitude tends to be stronger for those who value individual liberty and hold negative opinions about the government’s active role in society.
H3, H4, H5	Supported	Factor analysis combined the initially assumed three constructs related to personal responsibility into one broader construct dubbed “responsibility.” This encompasses opposition to purchasing from companies using sweatshop labor, a deliberate choice to buy environmentally friendly clothes, and guilt associated with buying fast fashion. Personal responsibility is positively correlated with the attitude towards buying SHC, especially when its moderating variables at average levels. The positive effect can be enhanced for individuals who hold negative views on individual liberty and are in a favorable financial situation. This motivation is generally associated with a positive attitude towards SHC purchases, though moderating effects can occasionally lead to an unfavorable association.
H6	Partially Supported	Materialistic centrality of acquisition significantly influences the model only when interacting with other variables, typically showing a negative relationship with the attitude towards buying SHC. This negative effect is amplified for those disinterested in fashion, not motivated by economic factors, in a favorable financial situation, and expressing other materialistic values. Generally, consumers valuing materialistic centrality of acquisition are more likely to have a negative attitude towards SHC, though moderating effects may lead to a positive association for some consumers.
H7, H8	Partially Supported	The constructs related to materialistic possession-defined success and acquisition as the pursuit of happiness were combined into one. This construct, primarily related to acquisition as the pursuit of happiness, was significant in the model only when interacting with other variables and typically has a negative association. A more negative attitude is exhibited by individuals who are female, older, less educated, value individual liberty, and hold other dimensions of materialism. Generally, consumers motivated by these factors, influenced by other variables, will mostly have a negative attitude towards SHC purchases. However, moderating effects may result in a positive association in some cases.
H9	Supported	Interest in fashion is negatively correlated with the attitude towards buying SHC when moderating variables are at average levels. This negative association is more pronounced for those who disagree with materialistic centrality of acquisition and hold negative views about the government’s role in society. Generally, consumers interested in fashion usually have a negative attitude towards SHC purchases, although sometimes moderating effects may lead to a positive association.
H10	Partially Supported	The strength and direction of the association between political views on individual liberty and SHC attitude depends entirely on interactions with other terms. This relationship tends to be negative for those disagreeing with responsibility motivation, older individuals, and those holding negative views about the government’s role in society.
H11	Partially Supported	The direction of this relationship with interactions depends entirely on the moderating effects, and it could be either negative or positive. For example, a significant positive effect was found, for males in an unfavorable financial situation, interested in fashion, and holding negative opinions about individual liberty.

Source: Own elaboration.

.

5. Discussion, Contributions, and Limitations

This study’s main objective was to investigate consumer motivations related to the attitude towards buying second-hand clothing (SHC). The methods used in this study included factor analysis and regression analysis. The first enabled the author to group selected manifest variables into constructs and validate the newly proposed measurement model. The second helped examine the relationship between the main terms and interactions, leading to hypothesis validation.

5.1. Discussion

Consistent with existing literature, this study reaffirmed the positive correlation between economic motivations and attitudes towards purchasing second-hand clothing (SHC), highlighting the role of financial constraints (Williams and Paddock 2003; Guiot and Roux 2010; Xu et al. 2014; Yan et al. 2015; Ferraro et al. 2016). Notably, it confirms that consumers in challenging financial situations exhibit a stronger positive correlation between economic motivations and attitudes towards SHC through an interaction effect. Another interesting moderating effect enhancing SHC attitude, was consumers’ expression of materialism possibly echoing Guiot and Roux’s (2010) observations on the gratifying aspect of SH goods’ pricing. The opportunity to acquire more items for less money may foster a sense of prudence, which is closely linked to materialism. Additionally, the data suggest that older respondents are more economically motivated, indicating generational differences in motivations, with younger consumers prioritizing environmental concerns over economic incentives (Shahbandeh and Şabanoğlu 2022; thredUP 2023).

Treasure hunting motivation emerged as the strongest driver of SHC purchases, surpassing both economic and ethical motivations. This hedonic motivation’s impact is particularly pronounced among consumers with positive views on individual liberty and skepticism towards government intervention, aligning with earlier findings that young consumers are primarily motivated by the thrill of treasure hunting (Wang et al. 2022).

This study also identified a positive correlation between ethical motivations and attitudes towards SHC purchases, comparable in strength to economic motivations. It is important to clarify that the ethical motivations construct combines three concepts previously modeled separately: personal environmental responsibility, social responsibility, and attitudes towards fast fashion. These were found to be too closely associated to be considered separate constructs. Despite the literature presenting mixed findings on the significance of this construct, it remains a pivotal aspect of SHC consumer behavior. Notably, while Wang et al. (2022) did not find this motivation significant, demonstrating that treasure hunting was the dominant reason. Similarly, the study by Burman et al. (2013), who tested SHC motivations among college students, showed that the enjoyment of treasure hunting and the effect of seeing friends and family involved in shopping for SHC were significant, while environmental factors had no impact on purchase intentions. On the other hand, multiple studies have shown that SHC consumers actually attribute ethical reasons to their behavior. Guiot and Roux (2010) were the first to note that SHC consumers may be driven by ethical and environmental considerations. This finding was later confirmed in several other studies (Ferraro et al. 2016; Ek Styvén and Mariani 2020; Borusiak et al. 2021; Ögel 2022). The discrepancies among these studies could stem from differences in operationalizing SHC behavior, varying conceptualizations of ethical motivations, and the absence of moderation analysis. First, some previous studies chose to operationalize SHC behavior using intentions, others prefer attitudes, actual past shopping experience or more complex composite variables derived from the Theory of Planned Behavior and other conceptual frameworks. As it was indicated in the literature review, consumer perceptions of sustainability are often subject to the so-called attitude–behavior gap, causing inconsistencies in what consumers claim and actually do (Gupta and Ogden 2009; Park and Lin 2020). Second, researchers have approached ethical motivations with different theoretical frameworks that generally focused on environmental issues, but often used different specific conceptualizations and included or not elements related to social issues. Third, a common assumption that the association between ethical motivation and SHC attitude and purchase intention is constant among all consumers, implied omitting interactions, which could contribute to the apparent non-significance of this relationship.

The effect of ethical motivation was further strengthened for those in a favorable financial situations and those with negative views on individual liberty. The first finding is consistent with research showing that environmentally conscious consumers are willing to pay more for green products (Domina and Koch 2007). On the other hand, Xu et al. (2014) suggested that younger consumers, who generally show high interest and concern for the environment, may turn to SHC stores because they cannot afford the usually high prices of green products. Negative views on personal liberty tend to coincide with more conservative political attitudes, which may correlated with lower environmental concerns (Gregersen et al. 2020). As such, for individuals who attach low values to personal liberty the role of ethical motivation could be stronger, which would explain the revealed interaction effect.

The current study revealed a negative correlation between interest in fashion and attitude towards buying SHC, which was not found in earlier research by Ferraro et al. (2016). This may stem from methodological differences, as these authors asked directly about the degree to which their respondents considered second-hand clothes fashionable. By contrast, the present study measured interest in fashion as an overall attitude about all clothing rather than an opinion about one aspect of SHC. The negative correlation may also be due to the fact that, except for vintage and designer items, most SHC goods are not valued for their premium quality or originality. Moreover, although vintage and luxury SHC has been experiencing a high growth, it is still a relatively small niche in terms of value compared to the overall apparel industry. SHC also lags behind fashion trends, unless older styles are currently in vogue.

Interestingly, this study found that neither materialism-related constructs nor political views proved significant on their own when all relevant moderators were fixed at the mean levels, which—due to standardized nature of those variables—cancels out the contribution from these interactions. However, as shown above, they played an important role in the model as moderators of the relationships involving other variables, in some cases even changing the direction of associations. The materialist centrality of acquisition formed interactions with regression terms related to fashion interest, economic motivation, and financial situation, and a second materialist construct related to feeling successful from owning things and being happy from acquiring them. The second materialism-related construct moderated the correlations between attitude towards buying SHC and terms related to economic motivation, political views on individual liberty, and another materialist dimension included in the model. As one of the few terms in the model, this construct interacted with several demographic variables: age, education, and gender.

Similarly to constructs related to materialism, both aspects of political views created significant moderating effects. In the case of support for personal liberty, the variables affected were ethical and hedonic motivations, age, and the second construct related to political views (government’s role in the society). The government’s role in society was found to be significant in the relationships with hedonic motivation, interest in fashion, income, gender, and personal liberty.

Our findings echo the complex interplay of emotions observed by Frau et al. (2023) in the context of problematic social media interactions. In the second-hand clothing market, consumer experiences are often characterized by a mix of positive and negative emotions, which can simultaneously contribute to value co-creation and value co-destruction, which is consequential to the formation of SHC attitudes. This highlights the importance of understanding the nuanced role of emotions in shaping consumer attitudes and behaviors in this market.

Finally, of the five demographic variables (income, age, gender, country, and education), only income and gender proved significant when their moderators were at the mean levels. As the only demographic attribute in the model, country of residence showed no significant effect of any kind, neither through its main effect nor interactions with other constructs.

The complex interaction patterns among the antecedents of SHC shopping attitudes render the development of clear, unequivocal profiles for SHC buyers challenging. However, by assuming that the highest absolute values of the conditional regression coefficients presented in Table 5 reflect the primary directions of these relationships, it is feasible to outline the characteristics of consumers most and least inclined towards SHC.

Consequently, the most pronounced negative attitudes towards SHC shopping are typically observed in individuals characterized by high scores in materialistic possession-defined success and the acquisition of happiness, who are male, older, less affluent, and exhibit a keen interest in fashion. In contrast, the demographic most receptive to SHC comprises younger females, with higher incomes, a tepid interest in fashion, and who hold negative perceptions of materialism across both dimensions. The influence of political views and education on SHC shopping attitudes proved to be highly context-dependent, with no discernible dominant pattern; the direction of this influence varied according to other consumer characteristics.

5.2. Theoretical and Practical Contributions

Overall, the main theoretical contribution of this study is extending existing literature by integrating economic, hedonic, and critical motivations into a single conceptual framework. This comprehensive approach allows for a more nuanced understanding of how different motivations interact to influence SHC purchase intentions. Prior studies often considered these motivations in isolation, which limited the scope of their findings. Another major theoretical contribution is this study’s examination of moderating effects of materialistic values and political views, which highlights the importance of these factors in shaping consumer attitudes towards SHC. The finding that materialism can both positively and negatively influence SHC attitudes depending on specific dimensions (e.g., acquisition centrality vs. possession-defined success) adds depth to the understanding of materialistic consumers’ behavior. Additionally, the role of political views, particularly the distinction between individual liberty and government intervention, offers new insights into how broader social and political contexts impact sustainable consumption behaviors.

The practical implications of this research are equally substantial, offering actionable insights for SHC vendors and marketers. The strong influence of hedonic motivations, particularly the thrill of treasure hunting, indicates that SHC retailers can enhance the shopping experience by creating engaging and visually stimulating store environments. Similarly, with a small investment of resources, companies can present their products online using photos of products arranged on people or mannequins, thus evoking embodied mental simulation in their customers. Organizing events like treasure hunts or themed sales could attract consumers motivated by the excitement of finding unique items. Understanding that economic motivations are a primary driver for SHC purchases suggests that marketing strategies should emphasize cost savings and value for money. Advertisements and promotional materials could highlight the financial benefits of buying second-hand, such as acquiring high-quality items at lower prices. The significant role of ethical motivations further suggests that SHC vendors should actively promote the ethical and environmental benefits of their products. To foster greater engagement and positive attitudes, SHC stores could strategically place their ads in media contexts where consumers are more likely to process information deeply, such as news websites or platforms focused on sustainability, rather than casual browsing sites. Marketing campaigns could focus on the positive impact of SHC on reducing waste and promoting sustainability. Collaborations with environmental organizations and certifications for sustainable practices could further strengthen this message.

5.3. Limitations

Understanding consumer behavior involves navigating a complex landscape populated by myriad variables that drive the actions of participants. While this study concentrated on attitudes towards second-hand clothing (SHC) purchases due to constraints in time and resources, it is crucial to recognize that consumer behavior also encompasses intentions and actual purchasing actions. The findings here should be viewed within this narrower focus and only cautiously compared to studies that encompass a broader spectrum of consumer behavior variables.

Although the motivations identified are currently deemed significant within SHC behavior research, it is vital to acknowledge the possibility of additional, unexplored reasons influencing consumer decision-making processes. The inherent challenges in capturing the full essence of consumer behavior—due to its implicit nature and the difficulties in documenting its core elements and dynamics—mean that our understanding remains incomplete. As a relatively nascent field, SHC research requires further development both in theoretical depth and empirical breadth.

The survey scales utilized were designed with consumers who shop in physical stores in mind. Consequently, while the questionnaire may apply to both online and offline shopping contexts, the insights offered might not fully capture the nuances of online consumer behavior compared to traditional in-store purchases.

5.4. Further Research

A deeper exploration into the purchasing behaviors of second-hand clothing consumers is imperative, especially as this market segment continues to influence the global apparel industry significantly.

This study predominantly examined European consumers, suggesting the value of contrasting these findings with research conducted in varied cultural contexts. Additionally, the dynamic nature of SHC purchasing motivations, as observed over time, merits longitudinal study to validate the observed trends.

Quite new and still poorly understood are the areas related to SHC online shopping. It would be interesting to see the differences between consumers who shop online and those who prefer to do it the traditional way. This relationship is particularly interesting from the point of view of consumers expressing hedonic motivation, as it is currently proving to be among the most influential drivers. The question remains whether treasure hunting can become the main competitive advantage of brick-and-mortar stores over online platforms, or whether it can be at least partially replicated in the digital setting, perhaps through virtual reality experiences for browsing clothes. It would also be interesting to explore whether influencers, typically associated with online platforms, can effectively support brick-and-mortar stores, and if so, which SHC motivations could benefit the most from this approach.

Future research could benefit from integrating actual purchase data with consumer attitudes, gathered through surveys in both physical and online settings. This comprehensive approach could yield valuable insights, filling the gaps between attitudes and actual purchasing behavior of eco-friendly products.

Finally, this study’s pioneering incorporation of the materialism construct into a statistical model highlights its significant moderating role. Future research could further explore the impact of materialism, either by utilizing similar conceptualizations and measurement scales or by creating new ones, possibly stronger linked to the concept of voluntary simplicity. This inclusion could significantly enhance the scope and depth of subsequent research efforts.