Next Article in Journal
Macroinvertebrates Associated with Macroalgae within Integrated Multi-Trophic Aquaculture (IMTA) in Earthen Ponds: Potential for Accessory Production
Previous Article in Journal
A Consolidated Linearised Progressive Flooding Simulation Method for Onboard Decision Support
Previous Article in Special Issue
Experimental and Numerical Investigation into the Effects of Air–Fluid Interaction on the Dynamic Responses of a Damaged Ship
 
 
Font Type:
Arial Georgia Verdana
Font Size:
Aa Aa Aa
Line Spacing:
Column Width:
Background:
This is an early access version, the complete PDF, HTML, and XML versions will be available soon.
Article

Modeling Ocean Swell and Overtopping Waves: Understanding Wave Shoaling with Varying Seafloor Topographies

Department of Mechanical Engineering, The University of Hong Kong, Hong Kong SAR, China
*
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2024, 12(8), 1368; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12081368 (registering DOI)
Submission received: 12 July 2024 / Revised: 6 August 2024 / Accepted: 8 August 2024 / Published: 11 August 2024
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Hydrodynamic Research of Marine Structures)

Abstract

One risk posed by hurricanes and typhoons is local inundation as ocean swell and storm surge bring a tremendous amount of energy and water flux to the shore. Numerical wave tanks are developed to understand the dynamics computationally. The three-dimensional equations of motion are solved by the software ‘Open Field Operation And Manipulation’ v2206. The ‘Large Eddy Simulation’ scheme is adopted as the turbulence model. A fifth-order Stokes wave is taken as the inlet condition. Breaking, ‘run-up’, and overtopping waves are studied for concave, convex, and straight-line seafloors for a fixed ocean depth. For small angles of inclination (<10°), a convex seafloor displays wave breaking sooner than a straight-line one and thus actually delivers a smaller volume flux to the shore. Physically, a convex floor exhibits a greater rate of depth reduction (on first encounter with the sloping seafloor) than a straight-line one. Long waves with a speed proportional to the square root of the depth thus experience a larger deceleration. Nonlinear (or ‘piling up’) effects occur earlier than in the straight-line case. All these scenarios and reasoning are reversed for a concave seafloor. For large angles of inclination (>30°), impingement, reflection, and deflection are the relevant processes. Empirical dependence for the setup and swash values for a convex seafloor is established. The reflection coefficient for waves reflected from the seafloor is explored through Fourier analysis, and a set of empirical formulas is developed for various seafloor topographies. Understanding these dynamical factors will help facilitate the more efficient designing and construction of coastal defense mechanisms against severe weather.
Keywords: wave run-up and breaking; overtopping waves; near-shore wave dynamics; Large Eddy Simulation; ‘Open Field Operation And Manipulation’ software wave run-up and breaking; overtopping waves; near-shore wave dynamics; Large Eddy Simulation; ‘Open Field Operation And Manipulation’ software

Share and Cite

MDPI and ACS Style

Wong, C.-N.; Chow, K.-W. Modeling Ocean Swell and Overtopping Waves: Understanding Wave Shoaling with Varying Seafloor Topographies. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2024, 12, 1368. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12081368

AMA Style

Wong C-N, Chow K-W. Modeling Ocean Swell and Overtopping Waves: Understanding Wave Shoaling with Varying Seafloor Topographies. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering. 2024; 12(8):1368. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12081368

Chicago/Turabian Style

Wong, Chak-Nang, and Kwok-Wing Chow. 2024. "Modeling Ocean Swell and Overtopping Waves: Understanding Wave Shoaling with Varying Seafloor Topographies" Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 12, no. 8: 1368. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12081368

Note that from the first issue of 2016, this journal uses article numbers instead of page numbers. See further details here.

Article Metrics

Back to TopTop