Colorants, Volume 1, Issue 4 (December 2022) – 4 articles

Not many manuscript maps have been the object of material analysis so far. A portolan chart, signed and dated by Juan Vespucci in 1520, was studied in this research, conserved at the Archivo General de Indias in Seville (Spain). It is made on parchment and depicts the coasts and islands of Europe and Africa. It is the oldest portolan chart made in Seville, being unusual in applying hand stamp for decorative figures. The map was analysed by different non-invasive techniques: infra-red and ultraviolet light, digital microscope and X-ray fluorescence (XRF). The main goals of this study were to identify the materials used, as well as to detect retouching or restoration work. Results showed that the entire parchment was first covered with a white layer made of lead white (Pb), calcite or gypsum (Ca). The principal pigments used were vermilion (Hg), yellow ochre (Fe), azurite (Cu) and a copper-based green pigment (Cu) and carbon black. The letters were probably written with an iron-gall ink (Fe, Cu). Very thin golden leaves were applied on a mixtion glue for gilded wind roses. Several retouches from the 19th/20th centuries were found using zinc and titanium whites and probably cobalt blue. Full article

Many pigments and dyes are not only valuable molecules in manufacturing, but also environmental pollutants. Stemming from the observation of the slow pace of change taking place to counter the ‘fast fashion’ phenomenon and its environmental consequences, this critical review highlights the importance not only of biotechnological approaches but also of a sustainable leadership to achieve a future-proof fashion industry. Science has been producing sustainable alternatives to counter the issue of dyes, but this is not enough. A change in the business attitude and leadership approach of the organizations that operate in the industry is needed. Only through the successful combination of new technologies and forward-looking decision-making will it be possible to alter the status quo and deal with the multiple environmental challenges that businesses are and will be facing. Full article

Fragments of single textile fibres are one of the most commonly found microtraces at crime scenes. Among them, the widespread blue and black/grey cotton fibres should be recognized. The analytical methods routinely used in fibre examination mainly focus on color assessment and determination of the fibres’ morphological features as well as chemical composition. This publication presents the physicochemical characteristics of blue and black/grey denim fabrics and fibres as well as an overview of the non-destructive and destructive methods used in the discrimination of these fibres. Usually, such fibre microtraces are very difficult to distinguish in forensic examinations due to their widespread abundance, and, thus, their evidential value is not significant. As previous research shows, most denim material samples were colored with indigo dye. However, due to the changing trends in denim production and the fashion market, indigo derivatives may play a more critical role. The literature review shows significant shortcomings in the development of techniques focusing on the analysis of the dyes contained in denim fibres, and this is a research direction worth pursuing. Full article

The colors of copper-containing pigments, copper (II) oxide and malachite, and their origins in ceramic glazes were systematically examined over a wide firing temperature range using a suite of analytical and spectroscopy techniques including SEM, UV-Vis FORS, XRD, FTIR, and EPR to gain new insight into the structural and chemical transformations of the glaze during firing. The two colorants investigated were black copper (II) oxide (CuO) nanopowder and blue-green basic copper carbonate, or malachite (Cu₂CO₃(OH)₂), both of which produce a final light blue color following firing. Additionally, silicon carbide (SiC) was used to locally reduce CuO to simulate firing glazes in a reductive environment and produce a final red color. At lower temperatures, malachite was found to decompose to form CuO at 550 °C, elucidating the reason that two different copper colorants could be used interchangeably to form the same “Robin’s Egg Blue” color. At 850 °C, a glaze sintering process occurred, resulting in the distribution of Cu²⁺ in a square planar geometry and an observed blue color. This structural change occurred at temperatures lower than the glaze’s melting point, indicating that complete vitrification of the glaze is not required for glaze coloration. Conversely, the reduction in Cu²⁺ to Cu⁺ through the addition of SiC did not occur until the glaze was fired above the melting temperature (1000 °C), signifying that high temperatures are required for the redox reaction to occur. This study sheds light on intermediate colorant-glaze interactions that are beneficial for understanding and predicting glaze coloring upon exposure to varying temperatures, and the results from this study can be applied to better-controlled glaze production for artists and a deeper appreciation of ceramic glaze chemistry and aesthetics. Full article