Fibre on Yarn Surface Entanglement Technology: Revolutionising Manufacturing for Noninterlaced Sustainable Textiles and E-Textiles in the Future of Mesh Materials ^†

Abstract

In an era of sustainability and innovation, the textile industry faces the challenge of reimagining traditional materials and manufacturing for an eco-conscious future. This research presents the results from the mechanical testing of materials manufactured via a novel manufacturing process and is part of a wider project that merges filament and small electrical components within a novel mesh material, thus enhancing breathability and reducing fabric weight for cost-effective comfort. FOYSE (Fibre on Yarn Surface Entanglement) is the novel process that manufactures a fourth class of textile and, thus, responds to the textile industry’s needs by providing an innovative noninterlaced textile manufacturing process. This project explores FOYSE’s disruptive potential in e-textiles and sustainable mesh materials, offering innovative solutions.

1. Introduction

In today’s era of sustainability and innovation, the textile industry faces the challenge of reimagining traditional materials and manufacturing processes for a more eco-conscious future. This project pioneers a textile surface that offers the seamless integration of filament and small electrical components within mesh materials, enhancing breathability and reducing fabric weight to optimise cost-efficiency and comfort. This paper focuses on identifying the strength of textile surfaces manufactured via the novel process.

FOYSE (Fibre on Yarn Surface Entanglement) is the name given to the novel technology that meets the evolving needs of the textile industry by introducing a cutting-edge noninterlaced textile manufacturing process, fostering transformation. FOYSE technology creates a yarn-formed textile that requires neither interlinking or interlooping as in the woven and knit structure. Illuminating the interlinking and interloping of yarn provides a textile of lighter weight and more suited to the inclusion of e-yarn, electronics, and microsensors. The differing properties of electronics and textiles such as durability (bend, stretch, twist, and shear) is a concern in e-textile development [1]. FOYSE technology removes the necessity to bend e-yarn, electronics, and microsensors by totally removing interloping and interlacing, which have proven problematic during the production of e-textiles and wearables. Utilising a layering manufacturing process, FOYSE technology creates ideal structures for embedding irregular-shaped yarns, filaments, and smart and reactive components [2].

2. Materials and Methods

Tests were conducted on two textile samples manufactured using FOYSE technology. The mechanical properties (in both the warp and weft directions) and air content of four textiles have been analysed. This abstract is limited to presenting the results from tensile tests and optical analysis of two samples. In addition, two of these samples have been washed 5 times by the company Zephlinear and their properties analysed and compared to the unwashed samples. A list of the materials and contents analysed is given below:

• Firstly, 70% alpaca, 30% silk solid hairy (black and cream), washed and unwashed
• One layer 70% alpaca, 30% silk; one-layer TPU filament; one layer 70% alpaca, 30% silk (cream and black)—washed and unwashed

To prevent any confusion, to differentiate the warp and weft direction, the samples were created with one layer black and one layer cream. The colour of the yarn in the direction of testing was specified.

2.1. Analysis of Light-Emitting FOYSE-Constructed Textile and Fibres within the Textile

Photographs were taken: Figure 1a shows a FOYSE-constructed open-spaced textile containing a light-emitting device, and Figure 1b shows FOYSE-constructed samples captured via a microscope containing a ×60 zoom. The main aim of this experiment was to compare the yarns and individual strands of the unwashed and washed samples. Comparison of the photographs of the unwashed and washed samples showed no changes/wear to the strands within the yarns. This shows that textiles are visually unaffected by washing.

2.2. Mechanical Testing

An Instron 5566 mechanical tester was used to analyse the force required to break strips of each fabric. Samples approximately 150 × 25 mm were cut from the fabrics in both the warp and weft directions. Care was taken to ensure that the same number of strands were analysed throughout the fabric and that the horizontal strands protruded from the samples. The strips were then placed into tensile testing grips with a 100 mm gauge length and secured. The crosshead (upper grips) was raised at a speed of 100 mm/min and the force required to maintain this speed was recorded.

Tensile tests were performed along both the black Figure 2a and cream strands Figure 2b, as shown in the following photographs.

2.3. Summary

The tensile testing results are summarised in the

Table 1. Results for 70% alpaca, 30% silk solid hairy (black and cream)—unwashed and washed.

Sample	Maximum Strength (N)		Elongation (%)
	Average	SD	Average	SD
Alpaca silk unwashed along black fibres	55.3	6.9	22.5	0.6
Alpaca silk unwashed along cream fibres	57.9	5.6	29.7	0.7
Alpaca silk washed along black fibres	51.3	2.9	25.0	2.5
Alpaca silk washed along cream fibres	46.0	6.8	25.2	2.3

.

3. Results and Discussion

Tensile tests measure the force required to stretch the fabric at a set rate, in this case, 100 mm/min. In general, each of the test pieces initially easily stretched with little force required. Above approximately 10% elongation, the force rapidly increased as the fabrics reached their maximum give, and the individual fibres began to stretch. On reaching a set force, the fibres began to break, as seen by the sharp drops in the recorded force. In some cases (for example, sample B of the washed fabrics tested along the black strands), the remaining fibres allowed the material to continue stretching before more fibres, and eventually the entire fabric, broke.

At the heart of this project is an unwavering commitment to sustainability. FOYSE technology addresses this imperative in two distinct ways: 1. streamlined manufacturing, significantly reducing the manufacturing steps required compared to woven and knitted materials, rendering it inherently eco-friendlier and more cost-effective; and 2. natural fibre utilisation, exploring the use of 100% wool and wool/hair mixed spun yarn in FOYSE textiles, emphasising natural, biodegradable materials that are both sustainable and functional. FOYSE technology introduces unique aesthetic possibilities, as the layering process seamlessly embeds smart and intelligent yarns [3], paving the way for innovative e-textile applications.

Building on prior research efforts, notably, the award-winning paper titled “E-textiles the Need to Breathe”, this project extends the boundaries of sustainable textile innovation. FOYSE technology emerges as a transformative force in textile evolution, both in process and product. It charts a sustainable path for the future of mesh materials. This encompasses the integration of miniature electronic components within mesh materials, a pivotal response to the worldwide demand for user-friendly e-textiles and environmentally conscious solutions.

4. Patents

https://www.ipo.gov.uk/p-ipsum/Case/ApplicationNumber/GB1706938.6 (accessed on 7 January 2024).