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24 pages, 3507 KB  
Article
Long-Term Variability and Trends in Extreme Wave Climate Along the Bay of Biscay
by Manuel Viñes, César Mösso, Felícitas Calderón-Vega, Benjamí Calvillo, Marc Mestres and Agustín Sánchez-Arcilla
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2026, 14(7), 646; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse14070646 - 31 Mar 2026
Viewed by 441
Abstract
Detecting long-term changes in extreme wave climate is essential for coastal engineering and hazard assessment, yet robust trend identification remains challenging due to strong natural variability and limited observational records. This study evaluates the robustness of trend detection in wave conditions along the [...] Read more.
Detecting long-term changes in extreme wave climate is essential for coastal engineering and hazard assessment, yet robust trend identification remains challenging due to strong natural variability and limited observational records. This study evaluates the robustness of trend detection in wave conditions along the Bay of Biscay using in situ measurements for a direct comparison with atmospheric climate indices such as North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO), East Atlantic pattern (EA), and El Niño-Southern Oscillation index (ENSO). A 32-year-long deep-water buoy record of wave parameters (1990–2022) is first analyzed and systematically compared with a nearby and shorter record (2007–2018) to quantify the influence of record length on extreme value estimates and trend inference. Extreme events are identified using a peak-over-threshold approach, and trends in significant wave height (HS), peak period (TP), wave steepness (S), and storm-related metrics are assessed through non-parametric methods. No statistically significant long-term trend is detected in the monthly averaged HS. In contrast, significant increases are found in storm frequency and storm wave power, together with a decreasing trend in TP and increasing wave steepness, indicating changes in storminess rather than in wave height alone. The shorter record exhibits substantially wider confidence intervals in return levels and inconsistent trend signals, highlighting the structural sensitivity of statistics to temporal coverage. Additionally, correlation analysis with large-scale atmospheric indices reveals that wave-parameters variability is more closely associated with the EA pattern than with the NAO or the ENSO, although the overall explained variance remains limited. Full article
(This article belongs to the Topic Coastal Engineering: Past, Present and Future)
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30 pages, 1774 KB  
Review
Motion-Induced Errors in Buoy-Based Wind Measurements: Mechanisms, Compensation Methods, and Future Perspectives for Offshore Applications
by Dandan Cao, Sijian Wang and Guansuo Wang
Sensors 2026, 26(3), 920; https://doi.org/10.3390/s26030920 - 31 Jan 2026
Viewed by 543
Abstract
Accurate measurement of sea-surface winds is critical for climate science, physical oceanography, and the rapidly expanding offshore wind energy sector. Buoy-based platforms—moored meteorological buoys, drifters, and floating LiDAR systems (FLS)—provide practical alternatives to fixed offshore structures, especially in deep water where bottom-founded installations [...] Read more.
Accurate measurement of sea-surface winds is critical for climate science, physical oceanography, and the rapidly expanding offshore wind energy sector. Buoy-based platforms—moored meteorological buoys, drifters, and floating LiDAR systems (FLS)—provide practical alternatives to fixed offshore structures, especially in deep water where bottom-founded installations are economically prohibitive. Yet these floating platforms are subject to continuous pitch, roll, heave, and yaw motions forced by wind, waves, and currents. Such six-degree-of-freedom dynamics introduce multiple error pathways into the measured wind signal. This paper synthesizes the current understanding of motion-induced measurement errors and the techniques developed to compensate for them. We identify four principal error mechanisms: (1) geometric biases caused by sensor tilt, which can underestimate horizontal wind speed by 0.4–3.4% depending on inclination angle; (2) contamination of the measured signal by platform translational and rotational velocities; (3) artificial inflation of turbulence intensity by 15–50% due to spectral overlap between wave-frequency buoy motions and atmospheric turbulence; and (4) beam misalignment and range-gate distortion specific to scanning LiDAR systems. Compensation strategies have progressed through four recognizable stages: fundamental coordinate-transformation and velocity-subtraction algorithms developed in the 1990s; Kalman-filter-based multi-sensor fusion emerging in the 2000s; Response Amplitude Operator modeling tailored to FLS platforms in the 2010s; and data-driven machine-learning approaches under active development today. Despite this progress, key challenges persist. Sensor reliability degrades under extreme sea states precisely when accurate data are most needed. The coupling between high-frequency platform vibrations and turbulence remains poorly characterized. No unified validation framework or benchmark dataset yet exists to compare methods across platforms and environments. We conclude by outlining research priorities: end-to-end deep-learning architectures for nonlinear error correction, adaptive algorithms capable of all-sea-state operation, standardized evaluation protocols with open datasets, and tighter integration of intelligent software with next-generation low-power sensors and actively stabilized platforms. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Industrial Sensors)
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28 pages, 1116 KB  
Systematic Review
Beyond In Situ Measurements: Systematic Review of Satellite-Based Approaches for Monitoring Dissolved Oxygen Concentrations in Global Surface Waters
by Irene Biliani and Ierotheos Zacharias
Remote Sens. 2026, 18(3), 428; https://doi.org/10.3390/rs18030428 - 29 Jan 2026
Viewed by 681
Abstract
Dissolved oxygen (DO) is a cornerstone of aquatic ecosystem vitality, yet conventional in situ monitoring methods, reliant on field probes, buoys, and lab analyses, struggle to capture the spatiotemporal variability of DO at regional or global scales. Satellite remote sensing has revolutionized water [...] Read more.
Dissolved oxygen (DO) is a cornerstone of aquatic ecosystem vitality, yet conventional in situ monitoring methods, reliant on field probes, buoys, and lab analyses, struggle to capture the spatiotemporal variability of DO at regional or global scales. Satellite remote sensing has revolutionized water quality assessment by enabling systematic, high-frequency, and spatially continuous monitoring of surface waters, transcending the logistical and financial constraints of traditional approaches. This systematic review critically evaluates satellite-based methodologies for estimating DO concentrations, emphasizing their capacity to address global environmental challenges such as eutrophication, hypoxia, and climate-driven deoxygenation. Following the PRISMA 2020 guidelines, large bibliographic databases (Scopus, Web of Science, and Google Scholar) identified that studies on satellite-derived DO concentrations are focused on both spectral and thermal foundations of DO retrieval, including empirical relationships with proxy variables (e.g., Chlorophyll-a, sea surface temperature, and turbidity) as well as direct optical signatures linked to oxygen absorption in the red and near-infrared spectra. The 77 results included in this review (accessed on 27 November 2025) indicate that the reported advances in sensor technologies (e.g., Sentinel-2,3’s OLCI and MODIS) have greatly expanded the ability to monitor DO levels across different types of water bodies, and that there has been a significant paradigm shift towards more complex and sophisticated machine learning and deep learning architectures. Recent work demonstrates that advanced machine learning and deep learning models can effectively estimate DO from remote sensing proxies, achieving high predictive performance when validated against in situ observations. Overall, this review indicates that their effectiveness depends heavily on high-quality training data, rigorous validation, and careful recalibration. Global case studies illustrate applications showcasing the scalability of remote sensing solutions. An OSF project was created to enhance transparency, while the review protocol was not prospectively registered, which is consistent with the PRISMA 2020 guidelines for non-registered reviews. Full article
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19 pages, 5321 KB  
Article
Deep Learning-Based Rolling Forecasting of Dissolved Oxygen in Shandong Peninsula Coastal Waters
by Yanjun Wang, Jinming Song, Xuegang Li and Guorong Zhong
Water 2025, 17(21), 3102; https://doi.org/10.3390/w17213102 - 30 Oct 2025
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1262
Abstract
Changes in nearshore water quality directly influence ecosystem stability and the sustainability of aquaculture production. Among these factors, rapid fluctuations in dissolved oxygen (DO) can compromise the physiological functions of aquatic organisms, often leading to mass mortality events and significant economic losses. To [...] Read more.
Changes in nearshore water quality directly influence ecosystem stability and the sustainability of aquaculture production. Among these factors, rapid fluctuations in dissolved oxygen (DO) can compromise the physiological functions of aquatic organisms, often leading to mass mortality events and significant economic losses. To enhance the predictive capability of DO in marine ranching areas, this study evaluates multiple forecasting approaches, including AutoARIMA, XGBoost, BlockRNN-LSTM, BlockRNN-GRU, TCN, Transformer, and an ensemble model that integrates these methods. Using hourly DO observations from coastal buoys, we performed multi-step rolling forecasts and systematically assessed model performance across multiple evaluation metrics (MAPE, RMSE, and R2), complemented by residual and error distribution analyses. The results show that the ensemble model, based on deep learning techniques, consistently outperforms individual models, achieving higher forecast robustness and more effective variance control, with MAPE values maintained below 4% across all three buoys. Building upon these findings, we further developed and deployed a DO forecasting and early-warning system centered on the ensemble framework. This system enables end-to-end functionality, including automatic data acquisition, real-time prediction, hypoxia risk identification, and alert dissemination. It has already been applied in marine ranching operations, providing 1–3 day forecasts of DO dynamics, facilitating the early detection of hypoxia risks, and significantly improving the scientific support and responsiveness of aquaculture management. Full article
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25 pages, 7119 KB  
Article
Long-Term Significant Wave Height Forecasting in the Western Atlantic Ocean Using Deep Learning
by Lu Zhang, Fan Jiang, Limin Huang, Dina Silva, Wenyang Duan and C. Guedes Soares
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2025, 13(10), 1968; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13101968 - 15 Oct 2025
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1872
Abstract
This study presents a significant wave height correction model using deep learning techniques to enhance long-term wave forecast capabilities. The model utilises buoy measurements to assess the forecasting accuracy of the ECMWF 15-day forecast of significant wave height in the western Atlantic Ocean [...] Read more.
This study presents a significant wave height correction model using deep learning techniques to enhance long-term wave forecast capabilities. The model utilises buoy measurements to assess the forecasting accuracy of the ECMWF 15-day forecast of significant wave height in the western Atlantic Ocean under various input conditions. The performance of different deep learning methods in modelling the wave forecast error is compared. The model predictions are validated against buoy data, revealing that the forecasting accuracy of the various deep learning methods is comparable. In addition, the model’s adaptability is examined for varying locations and water depths within the study area. The results demonstrate that the proposed method significantly improves the accuracy of the 15-day wave height forecasting and exhibits good adaptability to a vast sea area. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Studies in Marine Data Analysis)
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24 pages, 6670 KB  
Article
Development of Novel Offshore Submersible Seaweed Cultivation Infrastructure with Deep-Cycling Capability
by Chenxuan Huang, Chien Ming Wang, Brian von Herzen and Huu-Phu Nguyen
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2025, 13(10), 1958; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13101958 - 13 Oct 2025
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1420
Abstract
This paper presents a novel submersible seaweed cultivation infrastructure designed to enhance seaweed growth through deep cycling. The system consists of a square grid of ropes for growing seaweed, supported by buoys, mooring lines, and innovative SubTractors—movable buoys that enable controlled submersion. The [...] Read more.
This paper presents a novel submersible seaweed cultivation infrastructure designed to enhance seaweed growth through deep cycling. The system consists of a square grid of ropes for growing seaweed, supported by buoys, mooring lines, and innovative SubTractors—movable buoys that enable controlled submersion. The grid ropes are stabilized by four SubTractors, an array of small buoys, intermediate sinker weights and mooring lines anchored to the seabed. The SubTractors facilitate dynamic positioning, allowing the seaweed rope grid to be submerged below the thermocline—at depths of 100 m or more—where nutrient-rich deep water accelerates seaweed growth in offshore sites with low surface nutrient levels. Small buoys attached to the grid provide buoyancy, keeping the seaweed rope grid planar and near the surface to optimize photosynthesis when not submerged. This paper first describes the seaweed cultivation infrastructure, then develops a hydroelastic model of the proposed cultivation system, followed by a hydroelastic analysis under varying wave and current conditions. The results provide insights into the system’s dynamic behaviour, informing engineering design and structural optimization. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Infrastructure for Offshore Aquaculture Farms)
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21 pages, 3297 KB  
Article
Model Predictive Control of Underwater Tethered Payload
by Mark O’Connor, Andy Simoneau and Rickey Dubay
Appl. Sci. 2025, 15(18), 10122; https://doi.org/10.3390/app151810122 - 17 Sep 2025
Viewed by 688
Abstract
A fully automated, buoy-based deployment sensor system is being developed to acquire high-quality water column data, and requires a controller to accurately position an array of sensors at various depths. The sensor system will be potentially deployed under rough ocean conditions. Depth is [...] Read more.
A fully automated, buoy-based deployment sensor system is being developed to acquire high-quality water column data, and requires a controller to accurately position an array of sensors at various depths. The sensor system will be potentially deployed under rough ocean conditions. Depth is measured by a pressure sensor and adjusted through a rotating drum powered by a stepper motor. The proposed controller uses a model predictive control algorithm, a type of optimal control that predicts system response to optimize control actions used to track a desired variable-depth, setpoint profile. The profile is calculated to ensure smooth motion of the system, preventing motor malfunction. A simplified system model was created and used to simulate an open-loop test and system response. Constraints were applied to the control actions to match the practical limitations of the stepper motor. The simulated results show successful tracking of both a shallow and deep profile. At this stage of testing, the effects of ocean currents are considered by using a simple disturbance that provides the effect of ocean currents. A practical prototype that can implement the model predictive controller was tested on the physical buoy-based system with good control performance. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Optimization, Navigation and Automatic Control of Intelligent Systems)
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25 pages, 4997 KB  
Article
Use of Machine-Learning Techniques to Estimate Long-Term Wave Power at a Target Site Where Short-Term Data Are Available
by María José Pérez-Molina and José A. Carta
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2025, 13(6), 1194; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13061194 - 19 Jun 2025
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1469
Abstract
Wave energy is a promising renewable resource supporting the decarbonization of energy systems. However, its significant temporal variability necessitates long-term datasets for accurate resource assessment. A common approach to obtaining such data is through climate reanalysis datasets. Nevertheless, reanalysis data may not accurately [...] Read more.
Wave energy is a promising renewable resource supporting the decarbonization of energy systems. However, its significant temporal variability necessitates long-term datasets for accurate resource assessment. A common approach to obtaining such data is through climate reanalysis datasets. Nevertheless, reanalysis data may not accurately capture the local characteristics of wave energy at specific sites. This study proposes a supervised machine-learning (ML) approach to estimate long-term wave energy at locations with only short-term in situ measurements. The method involves training ML models using concurrent short-term buoy data and ERA5 reanalysis data, enabling the extension of wave energy estimates over longer periods using only reanalysis inputs. As a case study, hourly mean significant wave height and energy period data from 2000 to 2023 were analyzed, collected by a deep-water buoy off the coast of Gran Canaria (Canary Islands, Spain). Among the ML techniques evaluated, Multiple Linear Regression (MLR) and Support Vector Regression yielded the most favorable error metrics. MLR was selected due to its lower computational complexity, greater interpretability, and ease of implementation, aligning with the principle of parsimony, particularly in contexts where model transparency is essential. The MLR model achieved a mean absolute error (MAE) of 2.56 kW/m and a root mean square error (RMSE) of 4.49 kW/m, significantly outperforming the direct use of ERA5 data, which resulted in an MAE of 4.38 kW/m and an RMSE of 7.1 kW/m. These findings underscore the effectiveness of the proposed approach in enhancing long-term wave energy estimations using limited in situ data. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Development and Utilization of Offshore Renewable Energy)
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23 pages, 5972 KB  
Article
Forecasting Significant Wave Height Intervals Along China’s Coast Based on Hybrid Modal Decomposition and CNN-BiLSTM
by Kairong Xie and Tong Zhang
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2025, 13(6), 1163; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13061163 - 12 Jun 2025
Cited by 3 | Viewed by 2348
Abstract
As a renewable and clean energy source with abundant reserves, the development of wave energy relies on accurate predictions of significant wave height (Hs). The fluctuation of Hs is a non-stationary process influenced by seasonal variations in marine climate conditions, which poses significant [...] Read more.
As a renewable and clean energy source with abundant reserves, the development of wave energy relies on accurate predictions of significant wave height (Hs). The fluctuation of Hs is a non-stationary process influenced by seasonal variations in marine climate conditions, which poses significant challenges for accurate predictions. This study proposes a deep learning method based on buoy datasets collected from four research locations in China’s offshore waters over three years (2021–2023, 3-hourly). The hybrid modal decomposition CEEMDAN-VMD is employed for reducing non-stationarity of the Hs sequence, with peak information incorporated as a data augmentation strategy to enhance the performance of deep learning. A probabilistic deep learning model, QRCNN-BiLSTM, was developed using quantile regression, achieving 12-, 24-, and 36-h interval predictions of Hs based on 12 days of historical data with three input features (Hs and wave velocities only). Furthermore, an optimization algorithm that integrates the proposed innovative enhancement strategies is used to automatically adjust the network parameters, making the model more lightweight. Results demonstrate that under a 0.95 prediction interval nominal confidence (PINC), the prediction interval coverage probability (PICP) reaches 100% for at least 6 days across all datasets, indicating that the developed system exhibits superior performance in short-term wave forecasting. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Ocean Engineering)
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21 pages, 5418 KB  
Article
BloomSense: Integrating Automated Buoy Systems and AI to Monitor and Predict Harmful Algal Blooms
by Waheed Ul Asar Rathore, Jianjun Ni, Chunyan Ke and Yingjuan Xie
Water 2025, 17(11), 1691; https://doi.org/10.3390/w17111691 - 3 Jun 2025
Cited by 8 | Viewed by 3534
Abstract
Algal blooms pose significant risks to public health and aquatic ecosystems, highlighting the need for real-time water quality monitoring. Traditional manual methods are often limited by delays in data collection, which can hinder timely response and effective management. This study proposes a solution [...] Read more.
Algal blooms pose significant risks to public health and aquatic ecosystems, highlighting the need for real-time water quality monitoring. Traditional manual methods are often limited by delays in data collection, which can hinder timely response and effective management. This study proposes a solution by integrating automated monitoring systems (AMSs) with advanced machine learning (ML) techniques to predict chlorophyll-a (Chla) concentrations. Utilizing low-cost and readily available input variables, we developed energy-efficient ML algorithms optimized for deployment on buoys with a battery and hardware resources. The AMS employs preprocessing methods like the SMOTE and Random Forest (RF) for feature selection and ranking. Deep feature extraction is performed through a ResNet-18 model, while temporal dependencies are captured using a Long Short-Term Memory (LSTM) network. A Softmax output layer then predicts Chla concentrations. An alert system is incorporated to warn when Chla levels exceed 10 μg/L, signaling potential bloom conditions. The results show that this approach offers a rapid, cost-effective, and scalable solution for real-time water quality monitoring, enhancing manual sampling efforts and improving management of water bodies at risk. Full article
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19 pages, 21922 KB  
Article
Spatial Downscaling of Satellite Sea Surface Wind with Soft-Sharing Multi-Task Learning
by Yinlei Yue, Jia Liu, Yongjian Sun, Kaijun Ren, Kefeng Deng and Ke Deng
Remote Sens. 2025, 17(4), 587; https://doi.org/10.3390/rs17040587 - 8 Feb 2025
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1457
Abstract
Sea surface wind (SSW) plays a pivotal role in numerous research endeavors pertaining to meteorology and oceanography. SSW fields derived from remote sensing have been widely applied; however, regional and local studies require higher-spatial-resolution SSW fields to identify refined details. Most of the [...] Read more.
Sea surface wind (SSW) plays a pivotal role in numerous research endeavors pertaining to meteorology and oceanography. SSW fields derived from remote sensing have been widely applied; however, regional and local studies require higher-spatial-resolution SSW fields to identify refined details. Most of the existing studies based on deep learning have constructed mappings from low-resolution inputs to high-resolution downscaled estimates. However, these methods have failed to capture the relationships between multiple variables as revealed by physical processes. Therefore, this paper proposes a spatial downscaling approach for satellite sea surface wind that employs soft-sharing multi-task learning. Sea surface temperature and water vapor are included as auxiliary variables for SSW, considering the close correlation revealed by physical principles and data availability. The spatial downscaling of auxiliary variables is designed as an auxiliary task and integrated into a multi-task learning network with generative adversarial network and dual regression structures. The proposed multi-task downscaling network achieves flexible parameter sharing and information exchange between tasks through a soft-sharing mechanism and bridge modules. Comprehensive experiments were conducted with WindSat SSW products at 0.25° from Remote Sensing Systems. The experimental results validate the outstanding downscaling capability of the proposed methodology with respect to precision in comparison with buoy measurements and reconstruction quality. Full article
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18 pages, 8161 KB  
Article
A Significant Wave Height Prediction Method Based on Improved Temporal Convolutional Network and Attention Mechanism
by Ying Han, Jiaxin Tang, Hongyun Jia, Changming Dong and Ruihan Zhao
Electronics 2024, 13(24), 4879; https://doi.org/10.3390/electronics13244879 - 11 Dec 2024
Cited by 7 | Viewed by 2314
Abstract
Wave prediction is crucial for ensuring the safety and disaster mitigation of coastal areas, helping to support marine economic activities. Currently, many deep learning models, such as the temporal convolutional network (TCN), have been applied to wave prediction. In this study, a prediction [...] Read more.
Wave prediction is crucial for ensuring the safety and disaster mitigation of coastal areas, helping to support marine economic activities. Currently, many deep learning models, such as the temporal convolutional network (TCN), have been applied to wave prediction. In this study, a prediction model based on improved TCN-Attention (ITCN-A) is proposed. This model incorporates improvements in two aspects. Firstly, to address the difficulty of calibrating hyperparameters in traditional TCN models, a whale optimization algorithm (WOA) has been introduced to achieve global optimization of hyperparameters. Secondly, we integrate dynamic ReLU to implement an adaptive activation function. The improved TCN is then combined with the attention mechanism to further enhance the extraction of long-term features of wave height. We conducted experiments using data from three buoy stations with varying water depths and geographical locations, covering prediction lead times ranging from 1 h to 24 h. The results demonstrate that the proposed integrated model reduces the RMSE of prediction by 12.1% and MAE by an 18.6% compared with the long short-term memory (LSTM) model. Consequently, this model effectively improves the accuracy of wave height predictions at different stations, verifying its effectiveness and general applicability. Full article
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11 pages, 4294 KB  
Communication
Determining the Level of Threat in Maritime Navigation Based on the Detection of Small Floating Objects with Deep Neural Networks
by Mirosław Łącki
Sensors 2024, 24(23), 7505; https://doi.org/10.3390/s24237505 - 25 Nov 2024
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 1240
Abstract
The article describes the use of deep neural networks to detect small floating objects located in a vessel’s path. The research aimed to evaluate the performance of deep neural networks by classifying sea surface images and assigning the level of threat resulting from [...] Read more.
The article describes the use of deep neural networks to detect small floating objects located in a vessel’s path. The research aimed to evaluate the performance of deep neural networks by classifying sea surface images and assigning the level of threat resulting from the detection of objects floating on the water, such as fishing nets, plastic debris, or buoys. Such a solution could function as a decision support system capable of detecting and informing the watch officer or helmsman about possible threats and reducing the risk of overlooking them at a critical moment. Several neural network structures were compared to find the most efficient solution, taking into account the speed and efficiency of network training and its performance during testing. Additional time measurements have been made to test the real-time capabilities of the system. The research results confirm that it is possible to create a practical lightweight detection system with convolutional neural networks that calculates safety level in real time. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Object Detection Based on Vision Sensors and Neural Network)
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27 pages, 7064 KB  
Article
Uncertainty of Wave Spectral Shape and Parameters Associated with the Spectral Estimation
by Guilherme Clarindo, Ricardo M. Campos and Carlos Guedes Soares
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2024, 12(9), 1666; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12091666 - 18 Sep 2024
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 2888
Abstract
The uncertainty in estimating the wave spectrum from the records of wave elevation by heave–pitch–roll buoys is studied, considering the effects of the estimation method and the spectral resolution adopted in the process. This investigation utilizes measurements from a wave buoy moored in [...] Read more.
The uncertainty in estimating the wave spectrum from the records of wave elevation by heave–pitch–roll buoys is studied, considering the effects of the estimation method and the spectral resolution adopted in the process. This investigation utilizes measurements from a wave buoy moored in deep water in the South Atlantic Ocean. First, the spectra are computed using the autocorrelation function and the direct Fourier method. Second, the spectral resolution is tested in terms of degrees of freedom. The degrees of freedom are varied, and the resulting spectra and integrated parameters are computed, showing significant variability. A simple and robust methodology for determining the wave spectrum is suggested, which involves calculating the average energy density in each frequency band. The results of this methodology reduce the variability of the estimated parameters, improving overall accuracy while preserving frequency resolution, which is crucial in complex sea states. Additionally, to demonstrate the feasibility of the implemented approach, the final spectrum is fitted using an empirical model ideal for that type of spectrum. Finally, the performance and the goodness of the fit process for the final averaged curve are checked by widely used statistical metrics, such as R2 = 0.97 and root mean square error = 0.49. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Impact of Ocean Wave Loads on Marine Structures)
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11 pages, 3246 KB  
Technical Note
Wavelength Cut-Off Error of Spectral Density from MTF3 of SWIM Instrument Onboard CFOSAT: An Investigation from Buoy Data
by Yuexin Luo, Ying Xu, Hao Qin and Haoyu Jiang
Remote Sens. 2024, 16(16), 3092; https://doi.org/10.3390/rs16163092 - 22 Aug 2024
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1427
Abstract
The Surface Waves Investigation and Monitoring instrument (SWIM) provides the directional wave spectrum within the wavelength range of 23–500 m, corresponding to a frequency range of 0.056–0.26 Hz in deep water. This frequency range is narrower than the 0.02–0.485 Hz frequency range of [...] Read more.
The Surface Waves Investigation and Monitoring instrument (SWIM) provides the directional wave spectrum within the wavelength range of 23–500 m, corresponding to a frequency range of 0.056–0.26 Hz in deep water. This frequency range is narrower than the 0.02–0.485 Hz frequency range of buoys used to validate the SWIM nadir Significant Wave Height (SWH). The modulation transfer function used in the current version of the SWIM data product normalizes the energy of the wave spectrum using the nadir SWH. A discrepancy in the cut-off frequency/wavelength ranges between the nadir and off-nadir beams can lead to an overestimation of off-nadir cut-off SWHs and, consequently, the spectral densities of SWIM wave spectra. This study investigates such errors in SWHs due to the wavelength cut-off effect using buoy data. Results show that this wavelength cut-off error of SWH is small in general thanks to the high-frequency extension of the resolved frequency range. The corresponding high-frequency cut-off errors are systematic errors amenable to statistical correction, and the low-frequency cut-off error can be significant under swell-dominated conditions. By leveraging the properties of these errors, we successfully corrected the high-frequency cut-off SWH error using an artificial neural network and mitigated the low-frequency cut-off SWH error with the help of a numerical wave hindcast. These corrections significantly reduced the error in the estimated cut-off SWH, improving the bias, root-mean-square error, and correlation coefficient from 0.086 m, 0.111 m, and 0.9976 to 0 m, 0.039 m, and 0.9994, respectively. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Satellite Remote Sensing for Ocean and Coastal Environment Monitoring)
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