Search Results (86)

The Pacitan Regency is at risk of megathrust earthquakes and tsunamis due to the seismic gap along the southern region of Java Island, making risk-reduction efforts crucial. This research aims to analyse the tsunami risk associated with a potential megathrust earthquake scenario in Pacitan’s coastal areas and develop sustainable mitigation strategies. The research employs spatial analysis to evaluate the risk and subsequently formulate strategies for long-term mitigation. A weighted overlay method was utilised to integrate hazard (H) and vulnerability (V) datasets to produce a tsunami risk map (R). The hazard component was modelled using a tsunami propagation simulation based on the Shallow Water Equations in the Delft3D-Flow software, incorporating an earthquake scenario of Mw 8.8 and H-loss calculations in ArcGIS Pro 10.3. The vulnerability assessment was conducted by overlaying population density, land use, and building footprint from the Global Human Settlement Layer (GHSL) datasets. Finally, sustainable strategies were proposed to mitigate the tsunami risk effectively. The results show that Pacitan faces significant tsunami disaster risk, with tsunami waves at the coast reaching 16.6 m. Because the coast of Pacitan is densely populated, mitigation strategies are necessary, and in the present contribution, the authors developed holistic spatial planning, which prioritise the preservation and restoration of natural barriers, such as mangroves and coastal forests. Full article

On 28 March 2005, a major M_w 8.6 earthquake occurred near Nias and Simeulueislands, in the vicinity of northwestern Sumatra (Indonesia). The earthquake generated a significant tsunami. Although it was not as destructive as the 2004 Sumatra tsunami, the 2005 event was of sufficient strength to be recorded by tide gauges throughout the entire Indian Ocean. We selected 12 records for analysis, most from open-ocean islands but also some from continental stations. The maximum wave heights were measured at Salalah (Oman) (87 cm), Colombo (Sri Lanka), Pointe La Rue (Seychelles) and Rodrigues Island (53–54 cm). The dominant wave periods, estimated from frequency–time (f-t) diagrams, were 60–66 min, 40–48 min, and 20 min, which we assume are associated with the 2005 tsunami source. From the same stations, we calculated the mean ratio of the 2004 to 2005 tsunami heights as 5.11 ± 0.60, with the maximum and minimum heights to the west and south of the source region as 9.0 and 2.49, respectively. We also used these data to estimate the mean energy index, $E_0$ = 65 cm², for the 2005 tsunami, which was 16 times smaller than for the 2004 event. The USGS seismic solution was used to construct a numerical model of the 2005 tsunami and to simulate the tsunami waveforms for all 12 tide gauge stations. The results of the numerical computations were in general agreement with the observations and enabled us to map the spatial wave field of the event. To estimate the influence of location and orientation of the source area on the propagating tsunami waves, we undertook a set of additional numerical experiments and found that this influence is substantial and that these factors explain some of the differences between the physical properties of the 2004 and 2005 events. Full article

In this work, the problem of tsunamis generated by underwater landslides is addressed. Two new solutions are derived in the framework of the linear shallow water equations and linear potential wave theory, respectively. Those solutions are analytical (1 + 1D) and another is semi-analytical (2 + 1D). The 1 + 1D model considers a solid body sliding over a sloping beach at a constant speed, and the 2 + 1D model considers a solid landslide that moves at a constant velocity on a flat bottom. The solution 1 + 1D is checked numerically using a different finite scheme. The 2 + 1D model examines the kinematic and geometric features of the landslide at a constant ocean depth and its influence on the generation of tsunamis. Landslide geometry significantly influences run-up height. Our results reveal a power law relationship between normalized run-up and landslide velocity within a realistic range and a negative power law for the landslide length–thickness. Additionally, a critical aspect ratio between the length and width of the sliding body is identified, which enhances the tsunamigenic process. Finally, the results show that the landslide shape does not have a decisive influence on the pattern of tsunami wave generation and propagation. Full article

The Storegga slide tsunami (SST) at ca. 8100 ± 100–250 cal BP is known to be the largest tsunami that affected the North Sea during the entire Holocene. Geological traces of tsunami landfall were discovered along the coasts of Norway, Scotland, England, Denmark, the Faroes and Shetland Islands. So far, the German North Sea coast has been considered as being well protected due to the wide continental shelf and predominant shallow water depths, both assumed to dissipate tsunami wave energy significantly, thus hindering SST propagation dynamics. The objective of our research was to clarify if the SST reached the German Bight and if corresponding sediment markers can be found. Our research was based on the in-depth investigation of a 5 m long section of the research core Garding-2 from Eiderstedt Peninsula near Garding in North Frisia known from a previous study. For this, we newly recovered sediment core Garding-2A at exactly the same coring location as core Garding-2. Additionally, high-resolution Direct Push sensing data were collected to gain undisturbed stratigraphic information. Multi-proxy analyses of sediment material (grain size, geochemical, geochronological and microfaunal data) were carried out to reconstruct palaeoenvironmental and palaeogeographical conditions. We identified a high-energy event layer with sedimentological (e.g., erosional unconformity, rip-up clasts, fining-upward), microfaunal (e.g., strongly mixed foraminiferal assemblage) and other features typical of tsunami influence and identical in age with the SST, dated to ca. 8.15 ka cal BP. The event layer was deposited at or maximum ca. 1–1.5 m below the local contemporary relative sea level and several tens of kilometers inland from the coastline within the palaeo-Eider estuarine system beyond the reach of storm surges. Tsunami facies and geochronological data correspond well with SST signatures identified on the nearby island of Rømø. SST candidate deposits identified at Garding represent the southernmost indications of this event in the southeastern North Sea. They give evidence, for the first time, of high-energy tsunami landfall along the German North Sea coast and tsunami impact related to the Storegga slide. SST deposits seem to have been subsequently reworked and redeposited over centuries until the site was affected by the Holocene marine transgression around 7 ka cal BP (7.3–6.5 ka cal BP). Moreover, the transgression initiated energetically and ecologically stable shallow marine conditions within an Eider-related tidal channel, lasting several millennia. It is suggested that the SST was not essentially weakened across the shallow continental shelf of the North Sea, but rather caused tsunami run-up of several meters (Rømø Island) or largely intruded estuarine systems tens of kilometers inland (North Frisia, this study). We, therefore, assume that the southern North Sea coast was generally affected by the SST but sedimentary signals have not yet been identified or have been misinterpreted. Our findings suggest that the German North Sea coast is not protected from tsunami events, as assumed so far, but that tsunamis are also a phenomenon in this region. Full article

As water waves travel from deep to shallow waters, they experience increased nonlinearity and decreased dispersion due to the reduced water depth. While the impact of bed slope on wave propagation celerity is documented, it is often overlooked in commonly used depth-integrated wave models. This study uses the WKB approximation and solves higher-order slope-related terms to analyze the influence of varying depth, including the gradient and laplacian of water depth. One result is an extended longwave for linear wave reflection and transmission on a ramp to deeper waters. The main outcome and focus of this work, however, is a new, simple analytical expression for linear dispersion that includes bed variations. The results are applied to two cases: wind-generated water wave propagation in the nearshore, emphasizing corrections to bathymetry inversion methods, and tsunami propagation over the continental slope, highlighting the limitations of neglecting slope on dispersion and the significant role of the Laplacian of water depth. Full article

This experimental study focused on the measurement and analysis of the impact force caused by a tsunami bore on a coastal structure. The bore wave was produced by a dam break mechanism. The water depth in the reservoir and the location of the coastal structures were varied to simulate different impact scenarios. The time history of the force resulting from the impact of the bore wave on the coastal structure was measured. The propagation of the bore wave along the flume was recorded and the video recordings were converted into digital data using an image-processing technique in order to determine the flow depth variations with time. The hydrostatic forces and the corresponding depth and time-averaged hydrodynamic forces as well as the maximum hydrodynamic forces were acquired for each scenario. The ratio of hydrodynamic to hydrostatic forces were obtained, and it was observed that the calculated averaged ratio was within the recommended design ratio. The results indicate that an increase in the reservoir level caused an increase in the magnitude and intensity of the impact forces, however, the relationship was non-linear. Moreover, it was found that the location of the structure did not play a significant role on the intensity of the impact forces. Full article

In order to better understand the role of coral reefs around an isolated island in mitigating tsunami hazards, this study performed a horizontally two-dimensional (2DH) numerical study of tsunami-like solitary wave propagation and run-up around an idealized reef-fringed island. The shock-capturing Boussinesq wave model, the FUNWAVE-TVD is used in the present study and well-validated with existing experimental data for its robustness in predicting 2DH solitary wave processes around an island. Based on the validated model, the typical solitary propagation process around the reef-fringed island and the effects of morphological and hydrodynamic parameters on the maximum run-up heights were systematically investigated. It is found that coral reefs can effectively reduce maximum run-up heights around an isolated island. The reef flat’s water depth, reef flat width, and reef surface roughness are the main factors affecting maximum run-up heights around an island, while the fore-reef slope has little impact. For the idealized reef-fringed island in this study, sea-level rise will cause coral reefs to lose their protective capability on the lee side, and the presence of coral reefs may even enhance tsunami hazards around an island when the reef flat width is very narrow or coral bleaching happens. Full article

In tsunami studies, understanding the intricate dynamics in the swash area, characterised by the shoaling effect, remains a challenge. In this study, we employed the adaptive mesh refinement (AMR) method to model tsunami inundation and propagation in the Onagawa town physical flume experiment. Using the open-source flow solver Basilisk, we implemented the Saint-Venant (SV) equations, Serre–Green–Naghdi (SGN) equations, and a nonhydrostatic multilayer (ML) extension of the SGN equations. A hydraulic bore tsunami-like wave was used as the input boundary condition. The objective was to assess the efficiency of the AMR method with nonhydrostatic tsunami models in overcoming limitations in 2D and quasi-3D models in flume experiments, particularly with respect to improving accuracy in arrival time and run-up detection. The results indicate improved performance of the SGN and SV models in determining tsunami arrival times. The ML model demonstrated enhanced wave run-up simulations on complex built-in terrain. The refined roughness coefficient determined using the ML solver captured the arrival time well in the northern section of the Onagawa model, albeit with a 1 s delay. The AMR method offered a computationally stable solution with an 86.3% reduction in computational time compared to a constant grid. While effective, the nonhydrostatic models entail the use of a great deal of computational resources. Full article

A three-dimensional (3D) fully-coupled fluid-structure model has been developed in this study to calculate the impact force of tsunamis on a flexible structure considering fluid-structure interactions. The propagation of a tsunami is simulated by solving the 3D Navier–Stokes equations using a finite volume method with the volume-of-fluid technique. The structure motion under the tsunami impact force is simulated by solving the motion equation using the generalized alpha method. The structure motion is fed back into the fluid solver via a technique that combines a sharp-interface immersed boundary method with the cut-cell method. The flow model predicts accurate impact forces of dam-break flows on rigid blocks in three experimental cases. The fully coupled 3D flow-structure model is tested with experiments on a large-scale (1:5) model bridge under nonbreaking and breaking solitary waves. The simulated wave propagation and structure restoring forces generally agree well with the measured data. Then, the fully-coupled fluid-structure model is compared with an uncoupled model and applied to assess the effect of flexibility on structure responses to tsunami loading, showing that the restoring force highly depends on the dynamic characteristics of the structure and the feedback coupling between fluid and structure. The maximum hydrodynamic and restoring forces decrease with increasing structure flexibility. Full article

Coastal inundation has recently started to require significant attention worldwide. The increasing frequency and intensity of extreme events (sea storms, tsunami waves) are highly stressing coastal environments by endangering a large number of residential areas, ecosystems, and tourist facilities, and also leading to potential environmental risks. Predicting such events and the generated coastal flooding is thus of paramount importance and can be accomplished by exploiting the potential of different tools. An example is the combination of remote sensors, like marine radars, with numerical models. Specifically, while instruments like X-band radars are able to precisely reconstruct both wave field and bathymetry up to some kilometers off the coast, wave-resolving Boussinesq-type models can reproduce the wave propagation in the nearshore area and the consequent coastal flooding. Hence, starting from baseline simulations of wave propagation and the conversion of water elevation results into radar images, the present work illustrates the reconstruction of coastal data (wave field and seabed depth) using a specifically suited data processing method, named the “Local Method”, and the use of such coastal data to run numerical simulations of coastal inundation in different scenarios. Such scenarios were built using two different European beaches, i.e., Senigallia (Italy) and Oostende (Belgium), and three different directional spreading values to evaluate the performances in cases of either long- or short-crested waves. Both baseline and inundation simulations were run using the FUNWAVE-TVD solver. The overall validation of the methodology, in terms of maximum inundation, shows its good performance, especially in cases of short-crested wind waves. Furthermore, the application on Oostende Beach demonstrates that the present methodology might work using only open-access tools, providing an easy investigation of coastal inundation and potential low-cost integration into early warning systems. Full article

In this study, three worst-case credible tsunamigenic scenarios (Mw8.0) from Xiamen fault 1 (XF 1), Xiamen fault 2 (XF 2) and Xiamen fault 3 (XF 3) located off the coast of Xiamen were selected to assess the local tsunami hazard for Xiamen city, Fujian province, China. The GeoClaw model was utilized to compute the propagation and inundation of the tsunami for each scenario. The simulation results show that local tsunamis from XF 1–3 hit Xiamen within 1.5 h of earthquakes. The highest level of tsunami hazard in Xiamen is level II, which corresponds to an inundation depth ranging from 1.2 to 3.0 m. The areas with tsunami hazard level II in each scenario are primarily concentrated in the coastal areas of southern Haicang district and eastern Siming district, which are in the primary propagation direction of the tsunami. Since XF 2 and XF 3 are aligned almost parallel to the coastline of Xiamen, local tsunamis from XF 2 and XF 3 could cause more serious hazards to the coastal areas of Xiamen city. This work provides a typical case for researchers to understand the local tsunami hazard assessment for coastal cities. The research results can provide scientific references for the development of tsunami hazard assessment and early warning systems for coastal cities in southeastern China. Full article

The existence of traveling waves in an inhomogeneous medium is a vital problem, the solution of which can help in modeling the wave propagation over long distances. Such waves can be storm waves or tsunami waves in the seas and oceans. The presence of solutions in the form of traveling waves indicates that the wave propagates without reflection and, therefore, can transfer energy over long distances. Traveling waves within the framework of the 1D variable-coefficient wave equation exist only for certain configurations of an inhomogeneous medium, some of which can be found by transforming the original equation to the Euler–Darboux–Poisson equation. The solution of the last equation for certain parameter values is expressed in elementary functions, which are the sum of waves running in opposite directions. The mathematical features of such a transformation are discussed in this paper. Full article

This study focuses on understanding the historical tsunami events in Eastern Indonesia, specifically the Banda Sea region, by extracting information from the limited and challenging-to-interpret historical records. The oldest detailed account of a tsunami in Indonesia dates back to 1674, documented in the book Waerachtigh Verhael Van de Schlickelijcke Aerdbebinge by Rumphius. The study aims to comprehend the primary source of the tsunami and analyze its characteristics to facilitate future tsunami risk reduction. The methodology includes collecting topography and bathymetry data, conducting landslide scenario analysis, employing a two-layer wave propagation model, and performing spectral analysis. The study utilizes comprehensive datasets, investigates potential landslide scenarios, simulates tsunami propagation, and analyzes frequency characteristics using the fast Fourier transform. The 1674 event yielded a runup height of approximately 50–100 m, whereas this study underestimated the actual runup. To illustrate the tsunami wave along the bay’s coastline, a Hovmöller diagram was employed. By analyzing the Hovmöller diagram, the power spectral density was computed, revealing five prominent period bands: 6.96, 5.16, 4.1, 3.75, and 3.36 min. The integration of these components provides a rigorous approach to understanding tsunami dynamics and enhancing risk assessment and mitigation in the study area. Full article

Coastal flooding exacerbated by climate change is recognised as a major global threat which is expected to impact more than a quarter of all people currently residing in Pacific Island countries. While most research in the last decade has focused on understanding the dynamics and impacts of future coastal flooding from extreme sea levels, the effects of relative sea level rise (RSLR) on exacerbating tsunami hazards are not well understood. Far-field or distant sourced tsunamis tend to have relatively lower impacts in Pacific Island states compared with locally sourced events, but there is limited understanding of how the impact of far-field tsunamis changes over time due to RSLR. Using the hydrodynamics software BG-Flood, we modelled the Tōhoku-oki tsunami from propagation to inundation in Samoa under incremental SLR to examine the effects that RSLR has on changing the exposure of the built environment (e.g., buildings) to a far-field tsunami. Outputs of maximum tsunami inundation and flow depth intensities which incorporate incremental SLR were then combined with digital representations of buildings and depth-damage functions in the RiskScape multi-hazard risk modelling software to assess the changes in building exposure over time. Results suggest that the impacts of Tōhoku-oki-type far-field tsunamis become significant once RSLR reaches 1 m above present levels. Present-day building exposure will increase by approx. 500% with 1 m RSLR by 2080–2130, and approx. 2350% with 2 m RSLR by as early as 2130–2140. These findings provide useful insights for application to tsunami hazard risk assessments under changing sea level conditions in analogous island environments. Full article

Submerged breakwater, as an important marine engineering structure, can effectively absorb wave energy and is widely used in marine engineering protection. As a new type of breakwater, porous medium breakwater has a certain influence on wave propagation. However, the influence of multiple porous medium submerged breakwaters on extreme waves remains to be studied. In the study, considering effects of extreme waves generated by hurricanes or tsunamis, the influence of the solitary wave on the multiple semi-circle porous medium breakwater is systematically investigated. According to the computational fluid dynamics theory, a numerical tank is established, in which the porous medium module is coupled. The computational capability of this model is verified first. Then, depending on the model, a series of cases are carried out to study the effects of different porous medium breakwaters on the propagation of the solitary wave. The results show that when the porosity is 0.8, the force on the submerged breakwaters is the smallest, and the water level and the velocity decrease seriously. With the increase in the diameter of the submerged breakwater, the wave profile gradually becomes flat. The higher the wave height, the more serious the wave deformation after passing through the submerged breakwater. Full article