Cosmetics

26 pages, 2470 KB

Open AccessArticle

Formulation of Broad-Spectrum Ultraviolet Protection and Reef-Friendly Sunscreen Containing Perilla Seed Extract

by Sirinda Chalermthiralert, Witchuda Sukjoi, Sutatip Thonglem and Narongrit Lahpun

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 126; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030126 - 20 May 2026

The demand for eco-friendly photoprotection has increased due to the observed adverse effects of conventional UV filters on marine ecosystems. In this study, we developed a broad-spectrum, reef-friendly sunscreen emulsion containing Perilla frutescens seed extract. The extraction process was optimized using 95% ethanol [...] Read more.

The demand for eco-friendly photoprotection has increased due to the observed adverse effects of conventional UV filters on marine ecosystems. In this study, we developed a broad-spectrum, reef-friendly sunscreen emulsion containing Perilla frutescens seed extract. The extraction process was optimized using 95% ethanol maceration for one week, yielding the highest SPF of 22.61. Gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC-MS/MS) was used to identify linolenic acid (43.54%) as the predominant fatty acid. Cytotoxicity test results for HaCaT keratinocytes were used to confirm the extract’s safety, with an IC₅₀ of 12.9 mg/mL. The formulated sunscreen met environmental safety standards based on persistence, bioaccumulation, and toxicity (PBT) criteria. A clinical safety evaluation using a 24 h closed patch test (n = 17) demonstrated that the formulation induced no significant alterations in TEWL or erythema levels (p > 0.05), confirming its dermatological safety. In a clinical efficacy evaluation involving 30 volunteers, the formulation containing 1% perilla extract reduced both erythema values and the melanin index, with no statistically significant difference observed (p > 0.05). These findings demonstrate that P. frutescens seed extract is a potent bioactive ingredient for sustainable cosmeceuticals, offering effective sun protection while ensuring safety for both human skin and marine environments. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sunscreen Advances and Photoprotection Strategies in Cosmetics)

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16 pages, 2253 KB

Open AccessArticle

A Cosmetic Formulation Containing Hydrolyzed Fish Skin Extract Enhances Procollagen Production and Improves Wrinkle Appearance: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Split-Face Clinical Trial

by Eunjung Choi, Hee-Chul Chung, Do-Un Kim, Yun-kyeong Chu, Jaesook Koh and Ji Hwoon Baek

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 125; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030125 - 19 May 2026

Abstract

Skin aging is characterized by decreased collagen synthesis and increased extracellular matrix degradation, leading to wrinkle formation and reduced skin elasticity. This study evaluated the anti-aging potential of hydrolyzed fish skin (HFS) extract through complementary in vitro and clinical investigations. In human dermal [...] Read more.

Skin aging is characterized by decreased collagen synthesis and increased extracellular matrix degradation, leading to wrinkle formation and reduced skin elasticity. This study evaluated the anti-aging potential of hydrolyzed fish skin (HFS) extract through complementary in vitro and clinical investigations. In human dermal fibroblasts, treatment with HFS extract enhanced type I procollagen production and suppressed UVB-induced matrix-degrading enzymes, including matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and elastase, suggesting a mechanism that supports dermal matrix homeostasis. A randomized, double-blind, split-face clinical trial was conducted in 20 female participants over 12 weeks. A formulation containing 0.5% HFS extract was applied to one side of the face, while an identical vehicle control formulation without HFS extract was applied to the contralateral side. Wrinkle parameters were assessed using a three-dimensional imaging system. After 12 weeks, the test group showed significant improvements compared to baseline, with reductions of 12.75% in arithmetic mean roughness (Ra), 12.46% in root mean square roughness (Rq), and 11.32% in maximum wrinkle height (Rmax) (p < 0.05). No adverse events were observed. These findings demonstrate that HFS extract improves wrinkle-related skin parameters, potentially through promoting collagen synthesis while inhibiting matrix degradation. The combined molecular and clinical evidence supports its application as a functional cosmetic ingredient in anti-aging formulations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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14 pages, 486 KB

Open AccessArticle

Geographical Variation in Ocimum basilicum Essential Oil Composition and Its Impact on Antioxidant Activity and DL-α-Tocopherol-Assisted Lipid Protection in Cosmetic Oil Formulations

by Caterina Rossi, Alessandra Guerrini, Anna Baldisserotto, Elisa Durini, Mirco Rizzon, Luigi Miori, Gaia Bellonzi, Stefano Manfredini, Matteo Radice and Silvia Vertuani

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 124; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030124 - 19 May 2026

Abstract

Lipid oxidation is a major cause of instability in cosmetics containing vegetable oils, compromising their quality and durability. This study evaluates the in vitro antioxidant activity of two essential oils of Ocimum basilicum L., obtained from plants grown in Argentina (OBA) and Italy [...] Read more.

Lipid oxidation is a major cause of instability in cosmetics containing vegetable oils, compromising their quality and durability. This study evaluates the in vitro antioxidant activity of two essential oils of Ocimum basilicum L., obtained from plants grown in Argentina (OBA) and Italy (OBI), and their contribution to the oxidative stability of sweet almond oil. The essential oils were characterized by GC-MS, revealing significant differences in chemical composition: linalool represents the major constituent in both samples, with a higher concentration in OBI (64.42%) compared to OBA (55.28%). A sharp contrast was observed in the levels of eugenol and 1,8-cineole: while OBA was characterized by a higher eugenol content (18.44% vs. 2.25%), OBI showed a more pronounced presence of 1,8-cineole (13.90% vs. 5.38%). Antioxidant activity was determined by DPPH and PCL assays, while the oxidative stability of the cosmetic oil was measured by OXITEST, evaluating the effect of DL-alpha-tocopherol combined with the two essential oils on oxidative stability. OBA, with its higher phenolic content, consistently outperformed OBI in antioxidant activity: the IC₅₀ values from the DPPH assay were 43.3 ± 2.0 µg/mL (OBA) and 81.98 ± 1.98 µg/mL (OBI), while PCL values were 887.47 ± 6.01 and 363.82 ± 31.27 µmol Trolox equivalents (TE)/g, respectively. In the OXITEST model, the combination of 0.2% DL-alpha-tocopherol with 0.3% OBA yielded the highest oxidative stability (Induction Period = 1611 min), compared to 1114 min for the oil alone and 1508 min for the oil with tocopherol alone. This work provides new data on the functional use of basil essential oils in the oxidative stabilization of plant cosmetic oils, highlighting their potential use as natural antioxidants, in line with the increasing demand for clean label formulations and meeting the criteria of leading natural cosmetic standards. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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17 pages, 2364 KB

Open AccessArticle

Skin Hydration Potential of a Fluid Gel-Based Formulation of Kappaphycus alvarezii (Rhodophyta, Gigartinales)

by Laiara Torres, Bianca Aparecida Martin, Laura de Martin Coletti, Bruna de Souza Altoé Adorno, Juliana da Silva Coppede, Renata Fonseca Vianna Lopez, Suzelei de Castro França, Ana Lucia Fachin and Mozart Marins

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 123; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030123 - 18 May 2026

Abstract

The red alga Kappaphycus alvarezii is a rich source of bioactive compounds with potential applications in the cosmetic industry. This study aimed to characterize a cosmetic serum containing K. alvarezii and evaluate its immediate moisturizing effect on the skin. A randomized, triple-blind, parallel-group [...] Read more.

The red alga Kappaphycus alvarezii is a rich source of bioactive compounds with potential applications in the cosmetic industry. This study aimed to characterize a cosmetic serum containing K. alvarezii and evaluate its immediate moisturizing effect on the skin. A randomized, triple-blind, parallel-group clinical trial was conducted with 28 healthy participants, allocated 1:1 to receive either a control formulation with hyaluronic acid or a test formulation with K. alvarezii. The formulations were assessed for stability over 60 days using organoleptic, microbiological, pH, and rheological analyses. Mechanical and bioadhesive properties were assessed using a texture analyzer, while the water content of the stratum corneum on the palms and backs of the hands was measured in vivo using a Corneometer^® CM 825 (Courage & Khazaka Electronic GmbH). Both formulations showed similar stability and rheological behavior. Texture analysis indicated comparable compressibility and elasticity, with a slight reduction in bioadhesive strength for the test formulation. In vivo results demonstrated a moisturizing effect for both formulations, with a significant increase in palmar hydration 60 min after application of the K. alvarezii serum. These findings indicate that the formulation containing K. alvarezii can improve short term skin surface hydration; potential contributions of film formation and barrier modulation remain hypothetical and were not directly assessed in this study. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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26 pages, 1720 KB

Open AccessReview

Influence of Formulation, Application, and Environment on Sunscreen Effectiveness

by Rodrigo Collina Romanhole, Érica Mendes dos Santos , Ana Laura Masquetti Fava, Letícia de Souza Pagani, Nicole Ferrari de Carvalho, Giovanna Chagas Lima, Carla Leandra Silva Godoi, Thairiny Raiany Borges Toti, Luiza Aparecida Luna Silvério, Caroline Santinon, Janaína Artem Ataide and Priscila Gava Mazzola

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 122; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030122 - 16 May 2026

Abstract

This review provides a comprehensive analysis of the multiple factors influencing sunscreen efficacy, integrating studies published between 2016 and 2026. Beyond the type and concentration of UV filters, sunscreen performance is strongly affected by formulation design, photostability, environmental exposure, and user application practices. [...] Read more.

This review provides a comprehensive analysis of the multiple factors influencing sunscreen efficacy, integrating studies published between 2016 and 2026. Beyond the type and concentration of UV filters, sunscreen performance is strongly affected by formulation design, photostability, environmental exposure, and user application practices. Formulation strategies involving emulsion systems, excipients, solubilization methods, and encapsulation technologies directly influence sun protection factor (SPF), cosmetic acceptability, and safety. Recent advances, including nanoparticle-based carriers, hybrid organic–inorganic systems, and antioxidant-enriched formulations, have shown potential to improve photostability, broaden UV protection, and reduce systemic absorption and environmental impact. However, inadequate application and insufficient reapplication remain major limitations to real-world photoprotection. In addition, differences in skin type, age, and lifestyle reinforce the need for more personalized sunscreen approaches. Growing concerns regarding the environmental effects of UV filters also highlight the importance of sustainable formulations and stricter regulatory policies. Overall, optimizing sunscreen efficacy requires not only technological innovation but also improved public education, transparent labeling, and user adherence. Future research should focus on multifunctional, eco-friendly, and user-centered sunscreens capable of providing effective and sustainable photoprotection. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sunscreen Advances and Photoprotection Strategies in Cosmetics)

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18 pages, 6093 KB

Open AccessArticle

Enhancement of Hair Fiber Strength and Surface Morphology by Saccharomyces Lysate Assessed Using Tensile Testing and μ-CT

by Christine Mendrok-Edinger, André Fischer, Francesco Ortelli, Sven Kreisig and Thorsten Dickel

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 121; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030121 - 14 May 2026

Abstract

Consumer demand for sustainable solutions to protect against hair damage is growing, yet quantitative studies linking molecular interactions to mechanical strengthening and structural changes remain limited. Here, we investigated the effectiveness of biotechnologically obtained Saccharomyces Lysate as a formulated active ingredient for hair [...] Read more.

Consumer demand for sustainable solutions to protect against hair damage is growing, yet quantitative studies linking molecular interactions to mechanical strengthening and structural changes remain limited. Here, we investigated the effectiveness of biotechnologically obtained Saccharomyces Lysate as a formulated active ingredient for hair care. Molecular modeling was used to explore the interactions between peptides in the lysate and keratin and suggested a network of intermolecular interactions at multiple sites on the proteins. Based on these observations, the strength and structural integrity of hair fibers treated with Saccharomyces Lysate were assessed using tensile measurements. We observed an improvement in the strength of bleached hair tresses, with an increased Young’s modulus compared to tresses treated only with water along with a significantly increased break stress. To visualize the hair fibers and their surface roughness after treatment with the lysate, we employed micro-computed tomography (µ-CT) offering high-resolution visualization of hair fibers. We introduce this method to qualitatively highlight surface appearance following application of a cosmetic product and complemented it with combing force measurements. Our results demonstrate the potential of this complex mixture of small peptides to strengthen hair integrity and we propose a hypothesis for its putative mode of action at the molecular level. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)

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24 pages, 7270 KB

Open AccessArticle

Novel Vegan Exosome-like Biomimetic Vesicles for Skin and Hair Follicle Protection and Rejuvenation: Structural and Functional Characterization and Placebo-Controlled Clinical Efficacy Studies

by Noemí García-Delgado, Alexandre Lapeyre and Jordi Ayats

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 120; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030120 - 13 May 2026

Abstract

Exosomes are revolutionizing skincare as natural messengers for cell communication, yet their transition into cosmetics is often limited by the ethical and regulatory hurdles of their animal or human sourcing. This study describes the development and validation of vegan exosome-like biomimetic vesicles (EBVs) [...] Read more.

Exosomes are revolutionizing skincare as natural messengers for cell communication, yet their transition into cosmetics is often limited by the ethical and regulatory hurdles of their animal or human sourcing. This study describes the development and validation of vegan exosome-like biomimetic vesicles (EBVs) generated from the microalgae Chlamydomonas reinhardtii that reproduce the structural and functional logic of mammalian exosomes. Their structural biomimetism was confirmed through physical, lipidomic, and proteomic characterizations, revealing bilamellar vesicles (average diameter ~160 nm) containing 109 membrane lipids and 1369 proteins. Their functional biomimetism was assessed via 3′ mRNA sequencing, which showed that the EBVs induced transcriptional responses in human fibroblasts functionally analogous to human-derived exosomes in matrix-remodeling and anti-aging pathways. In vitro, the EBVs showed a 166.7% higher dermal delivery bias than standard liposomes and accelerated wound healing. Ex vivo, 2% EBVs protected skin explants against UV-A stress, showing 92% protective efficacy for excessive melanin production upon oxidative stress. Furthermore, the EBVs supported hair follicle anagen markers and follicle stem cell metabolism, significantly upregulating SOX9 (p = 0.0022). A 56-day placebo-controlled clinical study confirmed significant improvements in wrinkle depth (−12.2%), elasticity (+4.9%), and radiance (+20.0%). These results position EBVs as a scalable, high-performance alternative for next-generation anti-aging cosmetic applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

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16 pages, 7090 KB

Open AccessArticle

The Effects of Bio-Based Succinic Acid vs. Salicylic Acid on Stratum Corneum Desquamation and Human Skin Barrier Function

by Géraldine Louvet-Pommier, Yuanyuan Fang, Qian Zhang, Mengxue Gao, Xiaowei Chang, Daniel Wils and Damien Truffin

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 119; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030119 - 13 May 2026

Abstract

Bio-based succinic acid (bSU) has emerged as a promising mild exfoliating agent, yet its effects on desquamation pathways, barrier-related protein regulation, and irritation potential remain insufficiently characterized in human-relevant skin models. Therefore, this study systematically evaluated bSU against salicylic acid (SA) using reconstructed [...] Read more.

Bio-based succinic acid (bSU) has emerged as a promising mild exfoliating agent, yet its effects on desquamation pathways, barrier-related protein regulation, and irritation potential remain insufficiently characterized in human-relevant skin models. Therefore, this study systematically evaluated bSU against salicylic acid (SA) using reconstructed human epidermis and human skin explants to assess irritation profile and desquamation-related biological responses. Our findings reveal that bSU facilitates controlled corneocyte shedding by modulating the targets LEKTI, KLK, and CDSN. Moreover, bSU demonstrated a favorable ability to maintain physiological skin surface acidity, all while minimizing inflammatory activation. These results position bSU as a balanced exfoliating bioactive that effectively promotes stratum corneum renewal while preserving cutaneous barrier homeostasis, providing mechanistic insights to support its development in advanced mild exfoliation formulations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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15 pages, 1291 KB

Open AccessReview

Chronic Hand Eczema: From Nosological Ambiguity to Therapeutic Identity in the Era of Targeted Topical JAK Inhibition

by Martina Burlando and Emanuele Claudio Cozzani

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 118; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030118 - 11 May 2026

Abstract

Chronic hand eczema (CHE) is a persistent and relapsing inflammatory dermatosis characterized by substantial functional impairment, psychosocial distress, and occupational disability. Although epidemiologically common and clinically burdensome, CHE has long suffered from nosological ambiguity, frequently interpreted as a localized manifestation of atopic dermatitis, [...] Read more.

Chronic hand eczema (CHE) is a persistent and relapsing inflammatory dermatosis characterized by substantial functional impairment, psychosocial distress, and occupational disability. Although epidemiologically common and clinically burdensome, CHE has long suffered from nosological ambiguity, frequently interpreted as a localized manifestation of atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, allergic contact dermatitis, or cumulative irritant dermatitis. The recent regulatory approval of topical delgocitinib, a pan-Janus kinase (JAK) inhibitor specifically indicated for moderate-to-severe CHE inadequately controlled by topical corticosteroids, has reshaped both therapeutic strategy and conceptual framing of the disease. The introduction of a targeted therapy dedicated to CHE has reinforced its clinical identity while simultaneously highlighting its internal biological heterogeneity. Beneath the umbrella term “chronic hand eczema” lie distinct phenotypes characterized by variable barrier dysfunction, immune polarization, and environmental interaction. This review integrates current knowledge on epidemiology, pathophysiology, diagnostic stratification, therapeutic algorithms, phase III registrative evidence, emerging real-world data, and the central role of barrier restoration. Particular attention is devoted to the hand as a specialized barrier organ and to the interplay between inflammation and epidermal structural integrity. In the era of targeted therapy, precise diagnostic framing and barrier-oriented management are indispensable to optimize outcomes. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Innovations in Cosmetology: Bridging Scientific Evidence and Clinical Practice)

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2 pages, 151 KB

Open AccessEditorial

Editorial for “Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026”

by Enzo Berardesca

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 117; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030117 - 9 May 2026

Abstract

As we conclude this Special Issue of Cosmetics, we reflect on a remarkable journey through the current landscape of cosmetic science [...] Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

15 pages, 1588 KB

Open AccessArticle

Combined Treatment of Nicotinamide Mononucleotide and Hyaluronic Acid Attenuates Reactive Oxygen Species and MAPK Signaling in TNF-α-Induced Human Epidermal Keratinocytes

by Yea Jung Choi, Moonseok Kang, Doeun Kim, Dong-Wook Kim, Dayeon Ham, Gabsik Yang, Sullim Lee and Ki Sung Kang

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 116; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030116 - 6 May 2026

Abstract

The accumulation of oxidative damage and inflammation, induced by internal and external factors, represents a major mechanism underlying the aging of skin. Excessive reactive oxygen species (ROS) trigger mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) pathways, upregulating matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) expression and facilitating extracellular matrix degradation. [...] Read more.

The accumulation of oxidative damage and inflammation, induced by internal and external factors, represents a major mechanism underlying the aging of skin. Excessive reactive oxygen species (ROS) trigger mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) pathways, upregulating matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) expression and facilitating extracellular matrix degradation. Although nicotinamide mononucleotide (NMN) and hyaluronic acid (HA) possess antioxidant and dermoprotective properties, their potential combinational effects remain largely obscure. This study evaluated the impact of NMN and HA co-treatment on ROS production, MAPK signaling, MMP-1 secretion, and type I collagen secretion in TNF-α-stimulated human epidermal keratinocytes. ROS levels were assessed via DCFDA assay, while MMP-1 and COL1A1 secretion were quantified using ELISA. Additionally, the regulatory effects on ERK, JNK, and p38 phosphorylation were determined by Western blot. Synergy prediction was analyzed using the SynergyFinder platform via Highest Single Agent and Loewe models. While NMN and HA individually attenuated TNF-α-induced ROS and MMP-1 levels, co-treatment provided superior suppression and exhibited combinational interactions at specific concentrations. These findings suggest that NMN and HA combination treatment effectively modulates oxidative stress and skin-aging-related responses by regulating ROS levels and MAPK signaling pathways. Full article

(This article belongs to the Topic Oxidative Stress and Inflammation, 3rd Edition)

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16 pages, 1148 KB

Open AccessArticle

The Impact of Diet Composition on the Reduction of Acne Vulgaris: A Crossover Study

by Magdalena Daszkiewicz, Dorota Różańska and Bożena Regulska-Ilow

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 115; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030115 - 6 May 2026

Abstract

Introduction: Many studies suggest that dietary factors may significantly influence the development and severity of acne lesions. Objective: The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of an anti-inflammatory diet on acne severity in patients with acne vulgaris. Methods: This study [...] Read more.

Introduction: Many studies suggest that dietary factors may significantly influence the development and severity of acne lesions. Objective: The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of an anti-inflammatory diet on acne severity in patients with acne vulgaris. Methods: This study included 92 participants who followed an individualized dietary intervention tailored to their energy requirements. Acne severity was assessed at baseline and after four weeks of dietary intervention using the Investigator’s Static Global Assessment scale. Results: After four weeks, a reduction in acne severity was observed in 68 of 92 participants (73.91%). The mean acne severity score decreased from 3.3 ± 0.6 to 2.4 ± 0.7 points. The dietary intervention also resulted in statistically significant reductions in body weight (p < 0.0001), body mass index (p < 0.0001), fat mass (p < 0.0001), visceral fat (p = 0.0386), and metabolic age (p = 0.0004). Conclusions: The balanced diet characterized by a low glycemic index and anti-inflammatory properties, combined with reduced intake of saturated fatty acids, sugar, and salt, as well as the elimination of dairy products and highly processed and high glycemic index foods, presumably through the synergistic effect of all the components of the diet, was found to be effective in the reduction of acne severity in the study group. This study supports the feasibility of the applied dietary pattern and suggests possible benefit for patients with acne. Considering the promising results obtained in this study, further research conducted in larger patient populations would be valuable. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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15 pages, 1560 KB

Open AccessArticle

Ex Vivo Assessment of Heat and Humidity Effects on Human Skin and Potential Protection by Kombucha Tea Extract

by Julien Chlasta, Gaël Runel, Manon Boussard, Tiphaine Pele-Joly, Kristell Lazou, Karl Pays, Carine Nizard, Nivea Dias Amoedo, Rodrigue Rossignol and Anne-Laure Bulteau

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 114; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030114 - 6 May 2026

Abstract

Human skin homeostasis relies on the delicate equilibrium between epidermal stem cell renewal, dermoepidermal junction (DEJ) architecture, and environmental interactions. With aging and exposure to external stressors, this equilibrium becomes disrupted, leading to reduced regenerative capacity. In this study, we established an ex [...] Read more.

Human skin homeostasis relies on the delicate equilibrium between epidermal stem cell renewal, dermoepidermal junction (DEJ) architecture, and environmental interactions. With aging and exposure to external stressors, this equilibrium becomes disrupted, leading to reduced regenerative capacity. In this study, we established an ex vivo human skin model to examine the impact of dry and tropical (hot and humid) environmental conditions on epidermal homeostasis and to evaluate the protective potential of Kombucha tea extract, a fermented tea known for its antioxidant and regenerative properties. Histological analyses revealed that tropical conditions induced pronounced epidermal thickening (+157%) and disruption of the normal undulating architecture of the DEJ. Atomic force microscopy demonstrated a loss of mechanical contrast between dermal papillae and epidermal ridges, indicative of junctional flattening (−61 and −81%). At the molecular level, heat and humidity upregulated a stem cell marker (+85%) and collagen VII (+39%), reflecting an adaptive but potentially destabilizing activation of basal keratinocytes and matrix reorganization. Topical application of Kombucha tea extract counteracted these effects. Together, these results highlight the sensitivity of epidermal stem cell niches to heat and humidity stress and identify Kombucha tea extract as a promising bioactive agent to preserve epidermal homeostasis under challenging climatic conditions. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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12 pages, 444 KB

Open AccessReview

Zinc Oxide as a UV-Filter: A Review of Environmental Risks & Exposure Scenarios in Marine Environments

by Inola Kracke and Thibault Moraine

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 113; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030113 - 6 May 2026

Abstract

Zinc oxide (ZnO) is widely utilized as a mineral UV filter in sunscreen formulations due to its broad-spectrum efficacy, photostability, and acceptance by natural cosmetic certification bodies. Despite its growing use, the environmental impact of ZnO on marine ecosystems remains under debate. While [...] Read more.

Zinc oxide (ZnO) is widely utilized as a mineral UV filter in sunscreen formulations due to its broad-spectrum efficacy, photostability, and acceptance by natural cosmetic certification bodies. Despite its growing use, the environmental impact of ZnO on marine ecosystems remains under debate. While zinc is an essential micronutrient for aquatic organisms, excessive concentrations of Zn compounds, particularly in nanoparticulate form, have been thought to have detrimental effects, including coral bleaching, oxidative stress, and disruptions in metabolic and reproductive functions in marine species. This review synthesizes the current peer-reviewed literature on the ecotoxicological effects of ZnO, with particular emphasis on coral reef health, bioaccumulation, and trophic transfer pathways. Furthermore, real-world exposure scenarios are evaluated, incorporating field data from densely visited coastal regions and modeled environmental concentrations under worst-case use conditions. The aim of this study is to provide a comprehensive risk assessment of ZnO in sunscreen applications, balancing its recognized safety in human use with potential long-term impacts on aquatic ecosystems, thereby informing future regulatory decisions and sustainable product development. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sunscreen Advances and Photoprotection Strategies in Cosmetics)

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13 pages, 2521 KB

Open AccessArticle

Assessing the Impact on Barrier Function of Black Soldier Fly Larvae Lipids-Based Nanoparticles

by Cíntia Almeida, Margarida Gingado, Carolina Santos, Carla Turiel, Thalita Cândido, Ana Júlio, Catarina Pereira-Leite and Catarina Rosado

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 112; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030112 - 5 May 2026

Abstract

Epidermal barrier dysfunction, driven by disorganization and altered composition of the stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix, underlies multiple inflammatory dermatoses, namely atopic dermatitis (AD). The lipid fraction derived from Black Soldier Fly larvae (BSFL) biomass has emerged as a promising biomaterial for skin [...] Read more.

Epidermal barrier dysfunction, driven by disorganization and altered composition of the stratum corneum (SC) lipid matrix, underlies multiple inflammatory dermatoses, namely atopic dermatitis (AD). The lipid fraction derived from Black Soldier Fly larvae (BSFL) biomass has emerged as a promising biomaterial for skin health applications, particularly for restoring barrier function. Following previous work on the development of solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) incorporating BSFL lipid extract, the present study focused on the mechanistic evaluation of the occlusive, moisturizing and skin reinforcement potential of these nanoformulations (NFs), by exploring both in vitro and in vivo models. The compatibility assays showed no adverse effects after patch testing on healthy or atopic individuals, nor alterations on skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), or redness. In vitro studies confirmed the ability of these NFs to form an occlusive lipid film, hampering moisture loss, with 39% reduction of water loss compared to the control. Efficacy assays in human volunteers revealed a statistically significant improvement in epidermal conditions at treated sites, evidenced by enhanced SC hydration. The plastic occlusion stress test (POST) revealed a trend toward a reduced evaporation half-life, suggesting a modulation of the epidermal water dynamics, although the effect did not reach statistical significance. Overall, BSFL-based lipid nanoparticles emerge as emollient agents with broad potential for incorporation into next-generation cosmetic and pharmaceutical products for the management of AD. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

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49 pages, 8095 KB

Open AccessReview

Phytochemical-Loaded Nanotherapeutics in Cosmetic Surgery Wound Healing: A Narrative Review

by Bhagavathi Sundaram Sivamaruthi, Natarajan Suganthy, Periyanaina Kesika, Khontaros Chaiyasut, Rungaroon Waditee-Sirisattha, Wandee Rungseevijitprapa and Chaiyavat Chaiyasut

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 111; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030111 - 3 May 2026

Abstract

Wound healing in cosmetological and aesthetic surgery extends beyond tissue closure to achieving rapid regeneration, minimal scarring, and restoration of functional skin architecture. However, conventional wound care strategies inadequately regulate the complex wound microenvironment required for optimal cosmetic outcomes, leading to prolonged healing [...] Read more.

Wound healing in cosmetological and aesthetic surgery extends beyond tissue closure to achieving rapid regeneration, minimal scarring, and restoration of functional skin architecture. However, conventional wound care strategies inadequately regulate the complex wound microenvironment required for optimal cosmetic outcomes, leading to prolonged healing times and suboptimal aesthetic results, which can negatively impact patient satisfaction and increase the risk of complications. Phytochemicals exhibit multifunctional bioactivities, such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and pro-regenerative effects, but their clinical translation faces obstacles due to poor solubility, stability, and bioavailability. Nanotechnology-based delivery systems have emerged as a critical enabling strategy to overcome these limitations. This narrative review provides an updated, mechanistically integrated synthesis of phytochemical-loaded nanotherapeutics, including polymeric nanoparticles, nanohydrogels, nanofibers, and lipid- and vesicle-based systems, with a specific focus on their roles in modulating key wound-healing pathways, such as inflammation resolution, angiogenesis, collagen remodelling, and re-epithelialization. Evidence from preclinical studies consistently demonstrates that nano-enabled phytochemicals enhance therapeutic efficacy, improve skin penetration, and contribute to superior cosmetic outcomes, particularly by reducing fibrosis and scar formation. However, critical gaps remain, including limited high-quality clinical evidence, a lack of standardized formulation design, variability in reported outcomes, and unresolved concerns regarding long-term safety and regulatory translation. Taken together, the key insight of this review is that phytochemical-loaded nanotherapeutics represent a promising but still transitional strategy, biologically compelling at the preclinical level yet clinically under-validated. Bridging this gap requires rigorously designed clinical trials, quantitative outcome reporting, and balanced regulatory frameworks. Advancing these areas will be essential to translate nano-enabled phytochemicals from experimental systems into reliable, evidence-based solutions for cosmetological wound management. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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16 pages, 1293 KB

Open AccessArticle

Clinical and Instrumental Evaluation of a Topical Cream Containing 4% Aliophen^® in Women with Facial Skin Aging: A 56-Day Exploratory Open-Label Study

by Alessandro Colletti, Carmela Spagnuolo, Gloria Roveda, Marzia Pellizzato, Eva Adabbo, Gian Luigi Russo and Giancarlo Cravotto

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 110; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030110 - 3 May 2026

Abstract

Background: Facial skin aging is a multifactorial process characterized by wrinkles, pigmentary alterations, reduced elasticity, and dermal structural changes, in which oxidative stress and low-grade inflammation play key roles. Polyphenols have gained interest in cosmetic science due to their antioxidant and skin-protective properties. [...] Read more.

Background: Facial skin aging is a multifactorial process characterized by wrinkles, pigmentary alterations, reduced elasticity, and dermal structural changes, in which oxidative stress and low-grade inflammation play key roles. Polyphenols have gained interest in cosmetic science due to their antioxidant and skin-protective properties. Objective: We evaluated the antioxidant activity, clinical–instrumental performance, and tolerability of a topical cream containing 4% w/w Aliophen^®, a polyphenol-rich malt–hop extract, after 56 days of twice-daily application. Methods: Antioxidant activity was assessed in HaCaT keratinocytes exposed to tert-butyl hydroperoxide (tBHP, 500 μM), with intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) measured by DCFH-DA assay after Aliophen^® treatment (4–16 mg/mL). A prospective, single-center, open-label study included 20 women aged 45–65 years with facial aging signs. Instrumental assessments included wrinkle depth (PrimosCR SF), pigmentation (ITA°), skin biomechanics (Cutometer^® R0, R2), and dermal echogenicity (50 MHz ultrasound) at baseline, Day 28, and Day 56. A small subgroup with mild-to-moderate atopic skin (N = 5) was descriptively monitored using SCORAD. Results: Aliophen^® significantly reduced ROS in a dose-dependent manner. Wrinkle depth decreased at Day 28 (−8.1%; p = 0.003) and Day 56 (−15.9%; p < 0.001). ITA° increased (+11.5% and +18.2%; p ≤ 0.003). Skin biomechanics improved (R0 −5.3%; R2 +5.5%; p ≤ 0.004). Dermal echogenicity increased at Day 56 (+1.38; p = 0.002). SCORAD showed descriptive improvement. No serious adverse events occurred. Conclusions: A topical cream containing 4% Aliophen^® improved instrumental markers of facial aging with good tolerability, supporting further randomized, vehicle-controlled studies. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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16 pages, 984 KB

Open AccessReview

Agro-Industrial Side Streams in Cosmetics: From Raw Materials to Scale-Up and Life Cycle Assessment Within a Circular Economy Framework

by Malvina Hoxha, Visar Malaj, Maria Manconi and Maria Letizia Manca

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 109; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030109 - 2 May 2026

Abstract

The cosmetic industry represents a major sector of the global economy and is expected to significantly grow in the coming years. To enhance consumer acceptance and address increasing sustainability concerns, cosmetic companies are actively seeking innovative solutions to mitigate their environmental, economic, and [...] Read more.

The cosmetic industry represents a major sector of the global economy and is expected to significantly grow in the coming years. To enhance consumer acceptance and address increasing sustainability concerns, cosmetic companies are actively seeking innovative solutions to mitigate their environmental, economic, and social impacts. In accordance with this, several scientific studies focus on the development, scale-up, and life cycle assessment of sustainable cosmetic products, especially those derived from side streams in accordance with circular economy principles. Various reviews have addressed this topic; however, they typically cover one or two of these dimensions, providing only a partial perspective. In particular, existing studies mainly analyze the types of side streams used and the resulting products, often lacking a comprehensive framework that can effectively support the translation of these approaches into industrial-scale production. The aim of the present review is to address this gap by providing a comprehensive analysis of the maturity level of development, scale-up processes, and life cycle assessment of cosmetic products based on agro-industrial side streams. This analysis is intended to support companies in the transition towards more sustainable practices by reducing carbon footprint and limiting the intensive extraction of virgin raw materials. The different approaches and methodologies proposed for the development and scale-up of sustainable cosmetic products from agro-industrial side streams are also analyzed, considering whether life cycle assessment has been performed. Furthermore, the most suitable business models will be selected as innovative and sustainable value chains capable of generating economic benefits, fostering local development, and enhancing resource efficiency and supply security. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Useful from Useless: Development of Cosmetics from Agri-Food By-Products)

19 pages, 2440 KB

Open AccessArticle

Growth Phenology of Tubers and Accumulation of Metabolite Compounds on Two Accessions of Jicama (Pachyrhizus erosus L.)

by Fetti Andriyani Kurniya Ningsih, Yulia Rahmah, Youngkwan Cho and Ani Kurniawati

Cosmetics 2026, 13(3), 108; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13030108 - 30 Apr 2026

Abstract

Jicama (Pachyrhizus erosus L.) is a tropical tuber crop that has potential not only as a food source but also as a natural active ingredient in the cosmetics industry. This study aims to evaluate the phenology of tuber development and the content [...] Read more.

Jicama (Pachyrhizus erosus L.) is a tropical tuber crop that has potential not only as a food source but also as a natural active ingredient in the cosmetics industry. This study aims to evaluate the phenology of tuber development and the content of primary and secondary metabolites of two jicama accessions (Bogor and Kebumen) at three tuber ages (3, 4, and 5 months). The parameters observed included tuber weight, starch yield, total soluble solids (TSS), total titratable acidity (TTA), vitamin C, total phenols, total flavonoids, and antioxidant activity (% inhibition). For data analysis, we used the T-test to compare differences between accessions. The results showed that tuber weight and starch yield increased significantly up to 5 months of age, while secondary metabolite content (phenols, flavonoids, antioxidant activity) was higher in young tubers (3–4 months). This study shows a trade-off between productivity (starch and vitamin C) and bioactive metabolite content (phenols, flavonoids, antioxidants) as the tubers age. The Bogor accession has a more stable vitamin C content, phenol levels, and antioxidant activity, while the Kebumen accession shows higher flavonoid levels in young tubers. The optimal tuber age and accession recommended to obtain a balance between productivity and secondary metabolite content is the Bogor accession at 4 months of age. This supports the potential use of jicama in the cosmetics industry as a brightening agent (vitamin C), humectant (sugar), anti-aging agent (phenols, flavonoids), and base ingredient for natural starch-based formulations. This study provides the first integrated evaluation of tuber phenology, primary metabolites, and secondary metabolite dynamics of two Indonesian jicama accessions in relation to cosmetic functionality. The results highlight a clear trade-off between productivity and bioactive compound accumulation, offering a scientific basis for selecting optimal harvest age and accession for cosmetic raw materials This study provides the first integrated evaluation of tuber phenology, primary metabolites, and secondary metabolite dynamics of two Indonesian jicama accessions in relation to cosmetic functionality. The results highlight a clear trade-off between productivity and bioactive compound accumulation, offering a scientific basis for selecting the optimal harvest age and accession for cosmetic raw materials. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Cosmetic Sciences: Sustainability in Materials and Processes)

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