The TAXI Method: Reducing Fabric Waste with Recognizable Silhouettes in Sustainable Women’s Clothing

Abstract

The problem of textile waste generated in production processes poses new challenges for manufacturers. For this reason, an approach to clothing design has been developed that takes into account aspects of sustainable development and the zero-waste concept. The paper presents the development of “T” and “X” silhouettes for women’s dresses according to the proposed new method. The existing basic cuts of women’s dresses were modeled to obtain “T” and “X” basic silhouettes for women’s dresses, and we compare the reduction in losses between the cuts using the newly proposed TAXI method and the TAXI method according to the proposed design. The use of pattern losses based on the pattern of the basic dress cut provides innovative design solutions according to the TAXI method by applying structural elements that adjust the shape of the basic silhouettes of women’s dresses. Fabric utilization using the basic “T” silhouette cut model is reduced to 75%. The TAXI method improves fabric utilization, achieving 75% fabric use with the basic “T” silhouettes and up to 99.8% with modifications. The fabric utilization of the basic “X” silhouette according to the proposed TAXI design method is 99.8%, which is 32.5% higher than the fabric utilization according to the basic pattern. With this comprehensive concept based on the principles of sustainability, the proposed TAXI design method has been adapted for the maximum possible fabric utilization, esthetic quality and fit, while retaining the recognizable silhouette of the garment.

1. Introduction

Clothing design that takes into account aspects of sustainable development and the zero-waste concept is extremely important for the protection of ecology and natural resources in the production of clothing. Sustainable fashion is an environmentally friendly approach to design and production that makes rational use of fabrics. It is of great importance in clothing design methods according to the zero-waste concept, which aims to extend the lifecycle of garments [1,2,3,4]. The no-fail concept has gained momentum in fashion since the early 2010s and is increasingly featured in the work of contemporary designers. The fashion industry is one of the largest sectors that create textile waste in their production processes, caused by pattern losses after cutting. The fashion industry generates approximately 92 million tons of textile waste annually, with an average of 15–25% fabric waste in traditional garment production [5]. Sustainable development in the field of clothing design is essential in achieving a balance between economic, social and environmental resources. The excessive production and consumption of clothing leads to an accumulation of textile waste that is not properly disposed of and therefore new solutions are needed. The attitude towards textiles and their use is one of the most important criteria for sustainable development [6,7]. According to the zero-waste concept, fabric use is considered in advance to avoid textile waste during production, and designers have a great responsibility in this regard. For a zero-waste design, technical and esthetic elements are important, allowing the garment to be adapted to fabric dimensions, which is not the case in current practice. To avoid textile waste, it is necessary to consider the most favorable options for adapting pattern pieces during the tailoring process [8,9,10]. Research by fashion designers has paved the way for innovative approaches to garment design based on the principles of sustainable development. Garment design based on the concept of waste prevention is a major challenge for mass production, as the design is very complex and its implementation requires skills and knowledge [11,12]. Research to date has produced various innovative design solutions, each with their own advantages and limitations. To date, a number of sustainable design techniques and methods have been researched and successfully applied according to the zero-waste concept [13,14,15]. Good results have been achieved with each method, but certain shortcomings can be identified as follows: the adaptation of pattern pieces to non-standard fabric widths, the adaptation of pattern pieces in different directions, the disregard of warp direction during cutting and the fact that the garments usually have no recognizable basic garment silhouettes [16,17,18,19].

The outline of a garment is defined by the lines and curves that form the basic silhouette. In haute couture, silhouettes based on geometric shapes such as rectangles, trapezoids, triangles, circles and ellipses predominate. The silhouette of a garment is often defined by letters. Common silhouettes include ‘A’, ‘H’, ‘X’, ‘Y’, ‘T’ and ‘O’. By combining the aforementioned silhouettes, new silhouettes are created that are not defined by a specific term and whose design depends on the creativity and preferences of the designer. The silhouette of a garment is a fashion industry term that refers to how a garment falls over the body. It is one of the most important design elements that relates to the shape a garment creates on the body, as well as the final shape and appearance of the garment. The results of the research conducted so far to develop zero-waste design show significant progress in fabric utilization, but there are still numerous limitations that leave room for further research and the development of new methods. Intercut losses represent a significant percentage of textile waste, and by addressing clothing design and construction, attempts to eliminate that waste as much as possible have been made. The presented TAXI method provides an innovative solution to the above problem; it contributes to the utilization of the fabric in the maximum percentage possible and to the reduction in intercut losses. This study develops a new method for a zero-waste design that addresses the basic silhouettes of women’s garments, focusing on the fit on the body and minimizing pattern waste from a sustainable development perspective, which represents an advancement in the field of garment design. The result of this research is the definition of a process for producing basic patterns and creating patterns based on the proposed design of basic silhouettes for women’s clothing. This serves as a basis for the development of the cutting, modeling and production of clothing according to the zero-waste concept.

2. Materials and Methods

As part of our research, the previously researched methods of clothing design were analyzed according to the zero-waste concept, whereupon a new method of the zero-waste concept in the field of clothing design and construction was developed. The new method proposes a process for obtaining a basic cut and adapting it to the basic silhouettes of women’s clothing that fulfills the five basic criteria of the design process according to the following basic principles of sustainability in fashion: esthetics, fit, cost, post-cut fabric waste and manufacturability. The newly proposed method is called the TAXI method, which is based on the most common silhouettes of womenswear “T”, “A”, “X” and “I”. In this paper, we introduce a new method for the development of the “T” and “X” basic silhouettes for women’s dress.

The TAXI method has set rules and a defined procedure used to create basic patterns for basic silhouettes of women’s dresses. The starting point for the basic pattern process is a grid determined by the width of the fabric, the length of the garment and the lines of the main length measurements (sleeve depth, back length, hip height and pattern length), which are determined by mathematical expressions for each individual body measurement. The defined mathematical expressions of the structural body measurements used for the basic construction of women’s dress have been modified in the proposed new TAXI method. Individual structural measurements do not have a mathematical expression but are defined by the corresponding amount determined by a preliminary examination of the basic cut.

The patterns for the basic silhouettes of women’s dresses were created using computer program ZWCAD 2024 version number of software: 24.00_2023.06.26(#668-0275d6507a2)_x64, a vector software that uses mathematically defined points, lines and curves to create precise technical drawings and 3D models. The surfaces of the pattern pieces and the areas of the pattern losses were defined in the Auto CAD computer program.

By modeling basic cuts according to the proposed TAXI method, a design procedure was proposed with the aim of adapting basic cuts to basic silhouettes while maximizing fabric utilization. The procedure for modeling the basic cut according to the proposed design was defined by using construction elements (eyelets, seams, pleats) in the waist and hip area, as well as shoulder length and garment length.

3. Results and Discussion

The results of the application of the pattern and intersection loss research using the “T” and “X” basic womenswear silhouettes are modeled according to existing basic garment construction (BCC) and the proposed TAXI method, and the proposed design is presented. For the proposed TAXI method, the construction of the dress is illustrated, which is a new scientific contribution to the field of garment design and construction.

3.1. “T” and “X” Basic Silhouettes of Women’s Dresses Modeled According to Existing Basic Clothing Construction (BCC)

The basic construction of a women’s dress was made for a size 38 dress and modeled with the aim of obtaining the basic “T” and “X” silhouettes of women’s clothing [16]. The design drawing the basic “T” and “X” womenswear silhouettes was created using the Krita computer program. The drawing shows the front and back of a women’s dress, as shown in Figure 1.

The shoulder seams of the front and back of the woman’s dress have been extended by 5 cm to emphasize the “T” silhouette of the dress in the shoulder area. The bust seam on the front has been moved through the bust point and into the waist area. The eyelets on the front and back were neglected to emphasize the straight “T” cut of the basic silhouette, which does not follow the body line. The length of the dress cut has been shortened to 100 cm from the seventh cervical vertebra, as shown in Figure 2.

3.2. Constructing the Basic Cut of the “T” and “X” Dress Silhouette of a Women’s Dress According to the Proposed TAXI Method (TM-BC)

The proposed new TAXI method is a method of constructing and designing garments according to sustainable development guidelines with the aim of minimizing or eliminating pattern loss in basic silhouettes of women’s clothing.

The starting point for the construction of the basic cut of the dress for the “T” basic silhouette is defined by the width and length of the pattern. The basic construction for a women’s dress using the TAXI method is shown in half of the pattern drawing. The mathematical expressions for the construction measurements according to the TAXI method are adapted to the mathematical expressions for the construction of the basic cut of a ladies’ dress,

Table 1. Construction measurements for a women’s “T” and “X” basic silhouette dress; clothing size 38, according to the TAXI method.

Construction Measurements of the Basic Cut of a Women’s Dress	Amount of Construction Dimensions/cm	Construction Measures According to the TAXI Method	Amount of Construction Measure/cm
Sleeve depth (Sd) = 1/10 chest circumference + 10.5 cm (+1 cm add.)	20.3	Sleeve depth (Sd) = 1/10 chest circumference + 10.5 cm	19.3
Back length (Bl) = 1/4 height − 1 cm	41	Back length (Bl) = 1/4 height − 1 cm	41
Hip height (Hh) = 3/8 height	63	Hip height (Hh) = 3/8 height	63
Cut length (Cl) = 5/8 height	105	Cut length (Cl) = length of garment	100
	data	Cut width (Cw) = half of the cut pattern	70
Width of neckline (Wnl) = 1/20 chest circumference + 2 cm	6.4	Neckline width of the front part (Nlw Fp) = default	9
	data	Back neck width (Blw) = default	5
Cut length (Cl) = 5/8 height	105	Cut length (Cl) = length of garment Cut width (Cw) = half of the cut pattern	100
	data		70
Front height (Fh) = back length + 1/20 chest circumference − 0.5 cm	44.9	No mathematical expression defined	-
Back width (Bw) = 1/8 chest circumference + 5.5 cm (+0.5 cm dod.)	17	Back width (Bw) = 1/4 chest circumference	22
Sleeve width (sW) = 1/8 chest circumference − 1.5 cm (+1.5 cm dod.)	11	Sleeve height (Sh) = default	30
Chest width (Cw) = 1/4 chest circumference − 4 cm (+1.5 cm dod.)	19.5	Chest width (Cw) = 1/4 chest circumference	22
Waist width (Ww) = 1/4 waist circumference − 1 cm	17	Waist width (Ww) = 1/4 waist circumference	18
Mathematical expression not defined	-	Hip width (Hw) = 1/4 hip circumference	24

.

The following parameters were taken into account for the construction of a women’s “T” basic silhouette dress according to the TAXI method: garment size, pattern width, pattern length, main body and structure measurements. The structural measurements are calculated using new or adapted mathematical expressions. The width of the neckline, according to the basic cut, is calculated according to a mathematical expression; according to the TAXI method, the width of the neckline of the front (9 cm) and back (5 cm) as well as the height of the sleeves (30 cm) are precisely defined amounts that are common for ready-to-wear sizes from 36 to 42. The length of the pattern is defined and is 100 cm; the width of the pattern is 70 cm, which corresponds to half of the pattern.

3.2.1. Construction Method for the Basic Cut of a Women’s “T” Basic Silhouette Dress According to the TAXI Method

The construction method for the basic cut of a ladies’ dress with a “T” basic silhouette is shown in Figure 3a. The construction process includes seam allowances of 1 cm.

Step 1: Point A is the starting point. Start the process on the left side at a right angle and mark point A.

Step 2: From A to B and A1 to B1, measure the width of the pattern.

From B to B1 and A to A1, measure the length of the pattern

Step 3: From A to C and from A1 to C1, measure half the width of the pattern.

Step 4: Connect points C and C1.

Step 5: From B to D and from A to D1, measure the depth of the sleeve.

Step 6: Connect points D and D1. From B to E and A to E1, measure the length of the back.

Step 7: Connect points E and E1.

Step 8: From B to F and from A to F1, measure the height of the hip.

Step 9: Connect points F and F1.

Step 10: From A to G and from A to G1, measure the width of the front neckline. The width of the neckline is given as a suggestion according to the TAXI method for comfort. Shape the neckline of the front with points G and G1.

Step 11: From B to H, measure the width of the front neckline.

Step 12: From B to H1, measure the width of the back neckline. Shape the back neckline with the points H and H1.

Step 13: From C to I, measure the height of the sleeves. From I to J, measure 5 cm to the left and draw a horizontal line at a right angle to the left.

Step 14: From I to J1, measure 5 cm to the right and draw a horizontal line at a right angle to the right.

Step 15: From C1 to J’ and from C₁ to J1’, measure 5 cm to the left and right.

Step 16: Connect the points J to J’ and from J1 to J1’.

Step 17: From D1 to K and from D to K’, measure the width of the chest and the width of the back.

From K to K1, oversize for the manipulation in the chest area of the front.

From K’ to K1, oversize for the manipulation in the back area of the back piece.

Step 18: From E₁ to L and from E to L’, measure the width of the waist.

From L to L1, oversize for the manipulation in the waist area of the front.

From L’ to L1’, oversize for the manipulation in the waist area of the back.

Step 19: From F1 to M and from F to M’, measure the width of the hips.

From M to M1, oversize for the manipulation in the hip area of the front.

From M’ to M1’, oversize for the manipulation in the hip area of the back.

For the basic cut of a women’s “T” dress according to the TAXI method, the procedure for the construction of the underlay of the front and back neckline was defined, and the pattern losses 1IL and 2IL were marked, as shown in Figure 3b.

Step 1: The starting point is a, mark point a on the front neckline.

Step 2: From a to b and from b to c, measure 2.5 cm.

Step 3: Mark point a1.

Step 4: From a1 to b1 and from b1 to c1, measure 2.5 cm.

Step 5: Shape the underlay of the front neckline with points a and a1, b and b1 and c and c1.

Step 6: Mark point d on the back neckline.

From d to e, measure 2.5 cm (d1)

Step 7: From d1 to e1, measure 2.5 cm.

Step 8: Shape the underlay of the back with points d and d1 and e and e1.

From f to g and from f1 to g1, measure 60 cm.

3.2.2. Method for Constructing the Basic Cut of a Ladies’ “X” Basic Cut Dress According to the TAXI Method

The procedure for constructing the basic cut of a ladies’ dress for an “X” basic silhouette is shown in Figure 4a. The construction method includes seam allowances of 1 cm.

Step 1: Point A is the starting point. Start on the left side at a right angle and mark point A.

Step 2: From A to B, measure the width of the pattern.

Step 3: From B to B1, measure the length of the pattern.

Step 4: From A to A1, measure the length of the pattern.

Step 5: From A1 to B1, measure the width of the pattern.

Step 6: From A to C and from A1 to C1, measure half the width of the pattern.

Step 7: Connect points C and C1.

Step 8: From B to D and from A to D1, measure the depth of the sleeve.

Step 9: Connect points D and 11.

Step 10: From B to E and from A to E1, measure the length of the back.

Step 11: Connect points E and E1.

Step 12: From B to F and from A to F1, measure the height of the hip.

Step 13: Connect points F and F1.

Step 14: From A to G and from A to G1, measure the width of the neckline of the front piece. The width of the neckline is given as a suggestion according to the no-waste concept method for more comfort.

Step 15: Shape the neckline of the front with points G and G1.

Step 16: From B to H, measure the width of the front neckline.

Step 17: From B to H1, measure the width of the back neckline. Shape the back neckline with points H and H1.

Step 18: Mark point I.

Step 19: From I to J and from I to J1, measure 7 cm.

Step 20: Connect points C and J, C and J1, J and C1 and J1 and C1.

Step 21: From line AB, measure the height of the sleeve vertically downwards and mark point K.

Step 22: From line CB, measure the height of the sleeve vertically downwards and mark point K1.

Step 23: From D1 to L and from D to L’, measure the width of the chest and the width of the back.

Step 24: From L to L1, oversize 1 for the manipulation in the chest area of the front.

Step 25: From L’ to L1’, oversize 1 for the manipulation in the chest area of the back.

Step 26: From E1 to M and from E to M’, measure the width of the waist.

Step 27: From M to M1, oversize 2 for the manipulation in the waist area of the front.

Step 28: From M’ to M1’, oversize 2 for the manipulation in the waist area of the back.

Step 29: From F1 to N and from F to N’, measure the width of the hips.

Step 30: From N to N1, oversize 3 for the manipulation in the hip area of the front.

From N’ to N1’, oversize 3 for manipulations in the hip area of the back. On the basic cut of the ladies’ “X” basic silhouette dress according to the proposed TAXI method, the procedure for the construction of the underbodice is defined as follows: front and back neckline, underbodice for the length of the dress and underbodice for the arm bands and the intersection losses 1IL, 2IL, 3IL, 4IL, 5IL, 6IL, 7IL, 8IL and 9IL, as shown in Figure 4b.

Step 1: The starting point is a, mark point a on the front neckline.

Step 2: Measure from a to b and from b to c 2.5 cm.

Step 3: Mark the point a1.

Step 4: Measure from a1 to b1 and 2.5 cm from b1 to c1.

Step 5: Shape the carpet pad of the front neckline with the points a and a1, b and b1 and c and c1.

Step 6: Mark point d on the back neckline.

Step 7: Measure 2.5 cm from d to e.

Step 8: Mark point d1.

Step 9: Measure 2.5 cm from d1 to e1.

Step 10: Shape the carpet pad of the back with points d and d1 and e and e1.

Step 11: Mark point f and f1.

Step 12: Measure from f to g and from f to g1 13 cm.

Step 13: Connect the points g and g1.

Step 14: Measure f1 to h and from f1 to h1 17.5 cm.

Step 15: Connect the points h and h1.

Step 16: Connect the points g and h as well as g1 and h1.

Step 17: From g to I, measure 21 cm

Step 18: From g to i1, measure 20 cm.

Step 19: Connect the points g, i and i1.

Step 20: From h to j and from h to j1, measure 25 cm.

Step 21: Connect the points j and j1.

Step 22: Connect the points i and j and the points i1 and j1.

Step 23: From g1 to k, measure 21 cm.

Step 24: From g1 and k1, measure 20 cm.

Step 25: Connect the points k and k1.

Step 26: From h1 to l and from h1 to l1, measure 25 cm.

Step 27: Connect the points l and l1.

Step 28: Connect the points k and l as well as k1 and l1.

3.3. Modeling Method for Women’s “T” and “X” Basic Silhouette Dresses According to the Proposed TAXI Design Method (TM-DP)

Figure 5 shows a design drawing depicting the front and back of a women’s dress with the associated structural elements according to the Proposed TAXI design method, with the aim of using excess fabric for manipulation within the proposed basic cut to maximize fabric utilization and adapt the cut to the “T” and “X” basic silhouettes.

3.3.1. Modeling of Women’s “T” Basic Silhouette Dress According to the Proposed Design

The procedure for constructing the basic cut of a ladies’ “T” basic silhouette dress is shown in Figure 6. The construction procedure includes seam allowances of 1 cm.

Step 1: The starting point is a. Mark point a in the center of the pattern and point a1 on the length of the front pattern.

Step 2: Measure 11 cm from a to b and mark the notch for the start of the first fold of the front piece, mark as N1.

Step 3: Measure 2.5 cm from b to c and mark the notch for the center of the first fold of the front piece.

Step 4: Measure 2.5 cm from c to d and mark the notch for the end of the first fold of the front piece.

Step 5: Measure 2 cm from d to e and mark the notch for the distance between the two pleats and for the beginning of the second pleat of the front piece, mark as N2.

Step 6: Measure 8 cm from a1 to e1 and mark the notch for the start of the second pleat along the length of the front piece.

Step 7: Measure 2.5 cm from e to f and from e1 to f1 and mark the notch for the center of the second fold of the front piece.

Step 8: From f to g and from f1 to g1, measure 2.5 cm and mark the notch for the end of the second fold of the front piece.

Step 9: From a to h, measure 11 cm and mark the notch for the beginning of the first fold of the back, mark as N3.

Step 10: From h to I, measure 2.5 cm and mark the notch for the center of the first fold of the back.

Step 11: From i to j, measure 2.5 cm and mark the notch for the end of the first fold of the back.

Step 12: From j to k, measure 2 cm and mark the notch for the distance between the two pleats and for the start of the second fold of the back, mark as N4.

Step 13: From k to l, measure 2.5 cm and mark the notch for the center of the second fold of the back.

Step 14: From l to m, measure 2.5 cm and mark the notch for the end of the second fold of the back.

Step 15: Mark the points n and n1 on the neckline of the front piece.

Step 16: Measure 2.5 cm from n to o and n1 to o1.

Step 17: Measure 2.5 cm from o to p and from o1 to p1.

Step 18: Shape the base of the front piece with the points o and o1 and the points p and p1.

Step 19: Mark the points r and r1 on the neckline of the back.

Step 20: Measure 2.5 cm from r to s and from r1 to s1.

Step 21: Shape the carpet pad of the back with the points r and r1 and the points s and s1.

Excess fabric is used to shape and insert structural elements such as eyelets and pleats to fit the “T” cut of the basic silhouette. Excess fabric within the basic cut is found in the bust, waist and hip areas. On the front, at the shoulder seam, which is 26 cm long in the basic pattern, there are two 5 cm wide pleats. The first pleat of the front piece at the shoulder seam is placed over the entire length of the front piece from the shoulder seam to the length of the pattern and it is topstitched. The second pleat on the front piece is attached to the shoulder seam and falls freely. There are two 5 cm wide pleats on the back at the shoulder seam, which are 26 cm long in the basic pattern. The first pleat of the back piece at the belt seam is sewn to the waist, the second is attached to the shoulder seam and falls freely. The 70 cm long and 10 cm wide pattern piece, which is located between the front and back of the women’s dress, is divided in two lengthwise and serves as a pattern piece for the cuff of the sleeve rounds, which emphasizes the “T” shape of the silhouette of the dress. The circumference of the cuff is 60 cm, and the 10 cm of excess fabric on the cuff is shaped into pleats in the upper shoulder area. The hem of the dress is 2 cm long. Seam allowances of 1 cm are included in the pattern.

3.3.2. Modeling Women’s “X” Basic Silhouette Dress According to the Proposed Design

Step 1: The starting point is a, mark the point a.

Step 2: From a to b, measure 4 cm and mark the notch for the start of the first front stitch, mark U1.

Step 3: From b to b1, measure 2 cm and mark the end of the stitch. Measure from the center of the stitch vertically downwards 19 cm for the stitch length. Shape the stitch.

Step 4: From b1 to c, measure 1 cm and mark the notch for the beginning of the second front stitch, mark as U2.

Step 5: From c to c1, measure 2 cm and mark the end of the stitch. Measure from the center of the stitch vertically downwards 19 cm for the stitch length. Shape the stitch.

Step 6: Measure 1 cm from c1 to d and mark the notch for the beginning of the third front stitch, mark U3.

Step 7: From d to d1, measure 2 cm and mark the end of the stitch. Measure 19 cm from the center of the stitch vertically downwards for the stitch length. Shape the stitch.

Step 8: From d1 to e, measure 1 cm and mark the notch for the beginning of the fourth front stitch, mark as U4.

Step 9: From e to e1, measure 2 cm and mark the end of the seam on the shoulder line.

Step 10: Mark point e2 on the waistline.

Step 11: From e2 to e3, measure 5 cm and mark the beginning of the seam on the waistline.

Step 12: From e3 to e4, measure 3 cm and mark the end of the seam on the waistline. Draw a line from the center of the seam on the waistline to the hip line, which is 17 cm long, and mark point e5. Form the seam with points e, e1, e3, e4 and e5.

Step 13: From e1 to f, measure 1 cm and mark the notch for the beginning of the fifth front seam, mark as U5.

Step 14: From f to f1, measure 2 cm and mark the end of the seam on the shoulder line.

Step 15: From e4 to f2, measure 1 cm and mark the beginning of the seam on the waistline.

Step 16: From f2 to f3, measure 3 cm and mark the end of the seam on the waistline. Draw a line from the center of the seam on the waistline to the hip line, which is 20 cm long, and mark point f4. Create the seam with the points f, f1, f2, f3 and f4.

Step 17: From f1 to g, measure 1 cm and mark the notch for the beginning of the sixth seam on the front, mark as U6.

Step 18: From g to g1, measure 2 cm and mark the end of the seam on the shoulder line.

Step 19: From f3 to g2, measure 1 cm and mark the beginning of the seam on the waistline.

Step 20: From g2 to g3, measure 3 cm and mark the end of the seam on the waistline. Draw a line from the center of the seam on the waistline to the hip line, which is 25 cm long, and mark point g4. Create the seam with the points g, g1, g2, g3 and g4.

Step 21: From a to h, measure 4 cm and mark the notch for the beginning of the first back stitch, mark as U7.

Step 22: From h to h1, measure 2 cm and mark the end of the backstitch. From the center of the backstitch, measure 19 cm vertically downwards for the length of the backstitch. Shape the topstitch.

Step 23: From h1 to I, measure 1 cm and mark the notch for the start of the second topstitch, mark U8.

Step 24: From i to i1, measure 2 cm and mark the end of the backstitch. From the center of the backstitch, measure 19 cm vertically downwards for the length of the backstitch. Shape the backstitch.

Step 25: Measure 1 cm from i1 to j and mark the notch for the start of the third backstitch, mark as U9.

Step 26: Measure 2 cm from j to j1 and mark the end of the seam. From the center of the seam, measure vertically downwards 19 cm for the length of the seam. Shape the seam.

Step 27: Measure j1 to k 1 cm and mark the notch for the beginning of the fourth seam of the back seam, mark as U10.

Step 28: Measure k to k1 2 cm and mark the end of the seam on the shoulder line.

Step 29: Mark point k2 on the waistline.

Step 30: Measure 5 cm from k2 to k3 and mark the beginning of the seam on the waistline.

Step 31: Measure 3 cm from k3 to k4 and mark the end of the seam on the waistline. Draw a 17 cm long line from the center of the seam on the waistline at an angle of 45 degrees to the hip line and mark point k5. Create the seam with the points k, k1, k3, k4 and k5.

Step 32: Measure 1 cm from k1 to l and mark the notch for the start of the fifth seam of the back seam, mark as U11.

Step 33: Measure 2 cm from l to l1 and mark the end of the seam on the shoulder line.

Step 34: Measure 1 cm from k4 to l2 and mark the beginning of the seam on the waistline.

Step 35: Measure 3 cm from l2 to l3 and mark the end of the seam on the waistline. From the center of the seam on the waistline, draw a line to the hip line that is 20 cm long and mark point l4. Create the seam with points l, l1, l2, l3 and l4.

Step 36: Measure1 cm from l1 to m and mark the notch for the beginning of the sixth seam on the back, mark as U12.

Step 37: Measure 2 cm from m to m1 and mark the end of the seam on the shoulder line.

Step 38: From l3 to m2, measure 1 cm and mark the beginning of the seam on the waistline.

Step 39: From m2 to m3, measure 3 cm and mark the end of the seam on the waistline. Draw a 25 cm line from the center of the insert on the waistline to the hip line and mark point m4. Shape the insert with the points m, m1, m2, m3 and m4.

Step 40: Mark the points n and n1 on the neckline of the front piece.

Step 41: Measure 2.5 cm from n to o and from n1 to o1.

Step 42: Measure 2.5 cm from o to p and from o1 to p1.

Step 43: Shape the base of the front piece with the points o and o1 and the points p and p1.

Step 44: Mark the points r and r1 on the neckline of the back.

Step 45: Measure 2.5 cm from r to s and from r1 to s1.

Step 46: Shape the back part of the lower leaf with points s and s1, as shown in Figure 7.

The excess fabric within the basic “X” cut of the basic silhouette is in the bust, waist and hip area. In the front of the fabric at the shoulder seam, the length of which is 26 cm in the basic cut, there are three 2 cm wide and 19 cm long eyelets from the sleeves to the neckline. The distance between the eyelets is 1 cm. There are three eyelets along the entire length of the front of the dress, starting at the shoulder seam and ending below the hip line. The width of the shoulder seam is 2 cm, the distance between the stitches is 1 cm. The width of the waist seam is 2 cm. From the waistline to the hip line, the stitches run at an angle of 45 degrees. The stitch lengths from the side seam to the center front are 17, 20 and 25 cm. According to the proposed TAXI design, the pleats were sewn on the front of the garment and not the back, as is usually the case. The triangular neckline between the front and back of a women’s dress was used as a decorative strip on the front, further shaping the “X” silhouette. On the back, at the shoulder seam, the length of which is 26 cm in the basic cut, there are three 2 cm wide and 19 cm long eyelets from the sleeve to the neckline. The distance between the eyelets is 1 cm. This is followed by three eyelets along the entire length of the back of the dress, starting at the shoulder seam and ending below the hip line. The width of the shoulder seam is 2 cm, the distance between the stitches is 1 cm. The width of the waist seam is 2 cm. The stitch lengths from the side seam to the middle of the back are 17, 20 and 25 cm. According to the proposed TAXI design, the seams are sewn on the front of the garment and not on the back as usual. The sleeve circumference is 60 cm. The sleeve hem is 1 cm wide and is delimited by a notch. The hem of the dress is 2 cm wide. Seam allowances of 1 cm are included in the pattern.

3.4. Utilization of Cut Images and Pattern Losses

The width of half of the pattern is 70 cm, and the length of the pattern depends on the length of the garment, which is 100 cm. The patterns are shown for all three constructions of a women’s dress as follows: the basic pattern of a conventional construction, according to the proposed TAXI method and according to the proposed TAXI design method, as shown in Figure 8.

The width of the cut image for the basic cuts of the “T” and “X” clothing silhouettes, which is 70 cm, and the length of the cut image, which is 100 cm according to the proposed TAXI method, are the same for the range of clothing sizes from 36 to 42. Adjustments to the basic cut according to the “T” and “X” the clothing silhouettes for each clothing size depend on the manipulation of construction elements that depend on the excess fabric. Within the basic cut that is intended for manipulation according to the design idea, each clothing size can be adjusted to the listed silhouettes, while the intercut loss remains the same for all clothing sizes.

The total area of the pattern according to the basic construction (BCC) of the garment is 7000 cm². The total area of the front and back pattern pieces for the “T” basic silhouette of a women’s dress is 5254 cm² and the area of the pattern loss is 1746 cm².

Part of the intermediate pattern waste after the construction of the basic pattern is used for cutting the undercuts for the neckline of the front and back, for the length of the dress and for the sleeves. The cut-off pieces marked as 1IL and 2IL are intermediate pattern pieces that were not used in the basic pattern.

The total area of the cutting pattern for “T” (TM–BC) is 7000 cm². The total area of the front and back section is 6161.98 cm². The area of the underlay of the front and back neckline and the length of the women’s dress is 711.12 cm², and the area of the pattern loss is 126.9 cm².

Part of the pattern loss after the basic pattern is used for structural elements such as cuffs that emphasize the basic “T” silhouette in the shoulder area and for cutting the neckline of the front and back. The offset pattern piece of the 1IL brand is an intermediate pattern waste that was not used in the proposed design.

The total area of the pattern for the basic “T” silhouette of a women’s dress according to the proposed TAXI design method (TM–DP) is 7000 cm². The total area of the front and back pattern pieces is 6161.98 cm². The area of the underlining of the front and back neckline and the cuffs is 822.64 cm², and the area of the pattern loss is 15.38 cm².

The total area of the pattern according to the basic construction of the garment is 7000 cm². The area of the front and back pattern pieces for the basic “X” silhouette of a women’s dress is 4707 cm², and the area of the pattern loss is 2293 cm². Part of the intermediate pattern waste after the construction of the basic pattern is used for cutting the undercuts for the neckline of the front and back, for the length of the dress and for the sleeves. The cut-off pattern pieces marked 1IL, 2IL, 3IL, 4IL, 5IL, 6IL, 7IL, 8IL and 9IL are intermediate pattern pieces that were not used in the basic pattern. The total area of the pattern for the “X” basic silhouette of a women’s dress using the TAXI method is 7000 cm². The area of the front and back pattern pieces is 6168.83 cm². The area of the undercut from the front and back neckline, dress length and sleeves is 557.2 cm²; the area of the undercut loss is 341.93 cm². Part of the undercut loss after modeling the basic cut is used for construction elements such as trims that emphasize the basic “X” silhouette on the front of the women’s dress, and for cutting the undercuts, the front and back necklines. The cut-off section, marked as 1IL, is a pattern loss that was not used in the proposed design. The total area of the pattern for the “X” basic silhouette of a women’s dress according to the proposed TAXI design method is 7000 cm². The area of the front and back pattern pieces is 6168.83 cm². The area of the underlay of the front and back neckline and the trim used to create the “X” basic silhouette is 815.8 cm²; the area of the pattern loss is 15.38 cm². The cut drawings include seam allowances of 1 cm.

Table 2. Surfaces of cut parts and utilization of patterns.

Silhouette	IL-BCC/cm2	IL-TM-BC/cm2	IL-TM-DP/cm2	Utilization BCC/%	Utilization TM-BC/%	Utilization TM-DP/%
“T”	1746	126.9	15.38	75	98	99.8
“X”	2293	341.93	15.38	67.3	96	99.8

shows the utilization of fabric or pattern. The fabric utilization of the “T” basic silhouette pattern increased by 24.5% according to the proposed TAXI design method compared to the pattern according to basic garment construction. The fabric utilization of the “X” basic silhouette pattern is 99.8% according to the proposed TAXI design method, which is 32.5% higher than the basic garment construction. The “T” silhouette based on the basic garment construction achieves a fabric utilization of 75%; the “X” silhouette achieves a fabric utilization of 67.3, i.e., 7.7% less than the “T” silhouette.

The fabric utilization of the basic “T” silhouette according to the TAXI method is 98%, and 99.8% according to the proposed TAXI design method, i.e., there is a 1.8% higher utilization compared to the basic cut according to the TAXI method and a 24.8% higher fabric utilization compared to the modeled “T” silhouette according to the basic garment construction.

The fabric utilization of the “X” basic silhouette according to the TAXI method is 96%, and 99.8% according to the proposed TAXI design method, which corresponds to a 3.8% higher utilization compared to the basic cut according to the TAXI method and a 32.5% better utilization of the fabric compared to the modeled “X” silhouette following basic garment construction. According to the defined fabric utilization, the pattern loss of the “T” basic silhouette modeled according to the basic construction of the garment is 25% and that of the “X” basic silhouette is 32.7%. The pattern loss of the basic cut according to the TAXI method of the “T” basic silhouette is 2%, and according to the proposed TAXI design method, 0.2%. The pattern loss of the basic cut according to the TAXI method of the “X” basic silhouette is 4, i.e., 25 times the pattern loss of the “T” silhouette, and 0.2 according to the proposed TAXI design method.

This improvement “T” and “X” silhouettes is consistent with the findings of McQuillan and Rissanen. McQuillan and Rissanen are the authors of one of the most famous zero-waste methods, on the basis of which the idea for the TAXI method was developed. These are the mosaic method, the jigsaw method and the fabric draping method.

The mosaic method by Holly McQuillan is based on mathematical geometry. According to McQuillan’s definition, it is a method based on geometric cut parts in the form of squares, triangles or hexagons that are repeated on the fabric and fit together without empty space, leading to the maximum utilization of the fabric. The jigsaw puzzle method is characterized by the fitting of geometric cut parts without free space on the surface of the fabric. This enables the optimization of the tailoring process. The author of this method is Timo Rissanen.

The draping method involves draping the fabric directly on the tailor’s mannequin or on the body of the wearer without any engineered tailoring parts. Draping is a fabric shaping technique used in fashion design. Designers combine it with other methods according to the no-waste concept. Given that the garment is shaped directly on the tailor’s mannequin or body, designers can accurately determine the amount of fabric needed to create the garment [1,8,12].

These two authors developed zero-waste methods for the design and manufacture of clothing and are the originators of the zero-waste movement in fashion, as opposed to the other authors mentioned in the literature review who made their contribution to the design of zero-waste clothing from the theoretical side and in the context of sustainable development. The TAXI method was designed in accordance with previous research by the aforementioned authors, proving to be a good solution in clothing construction and fashion design that reduces fabric waste after tailoring, based on the standard length and width of the fabric. The TAXI method is based on the standard width of the fabric because it is the most common in the construction of clothing, while other dimensions of the fabric are not so common. The TAXI method can be adapted to smaller fabrics with widths of 60 or 50 cm due to the manipulation of structural elements that depend on the preferences of the designer. In that case, it is possible for the method to be adapted for a smaller range of clothing sizes, which leaves room for further research of the proposed method. The wider dimension of the fabric is generally 150 cm, for which the TAXI method could achieve good utilization if two clothing sizes fit, and this needs to be further investigated.

Table 3. Utilization of pattern loss.

Silhouette	IL-BCC/%	IL-TM-BC/%	IL-TM-DP/%
“T”	25	2	0.2
“X”	32.7	4	0.2

shows the utilization of the pattern losses, which are 25% in the case of the basic cutting pattern, while a significant reduction of 2% is observed with the proposed TAXI method. With the proposed TAXI method, the pattern loss is only 0.2%. According to the TAXI method, the basic cut of a women’s “X” basic silhouette dress shows the highest pattern loss, which is 4%.

4. Conclusions

Based on the analysis of existing zero-waste concept methods, it was found that the design of womenswear using the investigated methods have no recognizable basic silhouettes, but they achieve the primary goal of maximum possible fabric utilization. The proposed TAXI concept method, without the proposed design for basic silhouettes of womenswear, achieves a fabric utilization of 99.8% and meets the basic criteria of sustainable development.

The “T” and “X” basic silhouette cuts enable the greatest possible fabric utilization according to the TAXI method. The excess fabric that can be used is defined in the basic cuts and results from the difference between a specific silhouette shape and the sum of the main body measurements in the bust, waist and hips.

The basic “T” and “X” silhouettes, according to the proposed TAXI method, achieve a very high possible utilization of the fabric with minimal pattern loss compared to the modeled silhouettes following basic garment construction. This confirms that the new proposed zero-waste method is an acceptable solution for the production of garments according to the criteria of rapid development. The TAXI method not only reduces waste but also establishes a sustainable framework applicable to mass garment production.