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Review

Exploring the Therapeutic Potential of Jujube (Ziziphus jujuba Mill.) Extracts in Cosmetics: A Review of Bioactive Properties for Skin and Hair Wellness

by
Daniela Batovska
1,
Anelia Gerasimova
2 and
Krastena Nikolova
3,*
1
Institute of Chemical Engineering, Bulgarian Academy of Sciences, 1113 Sofia, Bulgaria
2
Department of Chemistry, Faculty of Pharmacy, Medical University of Varna, 9000 Varna, Bulgaria
3
Department of Physics and Biophysics, Faculty of Pharmacy, Medical University of Varna, 9002 Varna, Bulgaria
*
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
Cosmetics 2024, 11(5), 181; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11050181
Submission received: 7 July 2024 / Revised: 23 September 2024 / Accepted: 8 October 2024 / Published: 15 October 2024

Abstract

:
Jujube (Ziziphus jujuba Mill.), native to Southern Asia, stands out for its significant nutritional and therapeutic properties. Its adaptability and resilience have enabled its global cultivation, highlighting the necessity for comprehensive scientific research to fully harness its potential. Rich in bioactive compounds like flavonoids, polyphenols, vitamin C, polysaccharides, tannins, and saponins, jujube extracts exhibit notable antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and wound healing properties. These qualities have made jujube a popular ingredient in various skin and hair care formulations. The versatility of jujube extracts, along with their synergy with other herbal active ingredients, enables the development of targeted personal care solutions. These solutions address a range of concerns, including anti-aging, UV protection, brightening, moisturizing, and calming effects, as well as promoting hair health. Despite its potential, research on the cosmetic applications of Z. jujuba is still in its early stages, with only one clinical trial to date focusing on its skin-brightening effects. This review aims to consolidate the current and emerging research on the applications of jujube in conventional and medical cosmetics, highlighting its potential in enhancing skin and hair wellness. By providing a comprehensive overview, it seeks to pave the way for further studies and innovations in utilizing jujube for personal care.

1. Introduction

Jujube (Ziziphus jujuba Mill.), from the Rhamnaceae family, is native to Southern Asia, particularly China and India [1,2]. Valued for its nutritional and medicinal benefits, jujube has adapted to diverse climates, leading to its cultivation in various regions, including the Mediterranean, Central Asia and the Middle East, North America, and Australasia [3,4,5,6,7,8,9]. Its widespread use highlights its significance and the need for continued research.
Traditionally, jujube has been used in herbal medicine across several countries for conditions such as digestive issues, insomnia, respiratory problems, and allergies [2,10,11,12]. These therapeutic benefits are attributed to bioactive compounds in the fruit, peel, leaves, and seeds, including flavonoids, polyphenols, vitamin C, polysaccharides, tannins, cyclic nucleotides, and saponins [13,14,15,16,17].
Periodic reviews on jujube’s secondary metabolites, often emphasizing their collective effects, have expanded the understanding of their biological and pharmaceutical activities [15,18,19,20,21]. These compounds impart antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, wound healing, and moisturizing properties, making them valuable for pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications. Despite this potential, a comprehensive review on the cosmetic applications of jujube is lacking [6,14,22,23]. Our article aims to fill this gap by exploring jujube’s cosmetic potential and highlighting the need for further research, including clinical trials and safety assessments.
In recent years, the cosmetic market has seen a surge in skincare and haircare products featuring jujube extracts. These products include creams, moisturizers, serums, and masks to lotions, shampoos, gels, and conditioners [24]. Ziziphus mauritiana (Indian jujube or ber) is often highlighted as a key ingredient due to its rich flavonoid, saponin, and tannin contents [4,25,26]. These compounds offer powerful antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and moisturizing benefits, making them highly desirable in skincare. Conversely, Z. jujuba is still emerging in the cosmetics industry and requires further exploration. The adaptability of jujube extracts in combination with other botanicals and active ingredients supports the development of tailored formulations for various skincare needs, including anti-aging, UV protection, brightening, moisturizing, and calming effects and improved hair health [27,28,29].
Advancements in extraction and formulation technologies have significantly enhanced the ability to utilize jujube’s bioactive compounds. Techniques such as microwave-assisted extraction (MAE), ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE), ultra-high-pressure extraction (UHPE), enzyme-assisted extraction (EAE), and deep eutectic solvent (DES) extraction have improved the stability, bioavailability, and efficacy of jujube-derived products [30,31]. Both MAE and UAE enhance extraction efficiency and reduce processing time, while UHPE and EAE offer improved extraction of sensitive compounds under mild conditions. In addition, DES provides an eco-friendly approach with high selectivity for active components. As research progresses, exploring these advanced techniques will be crucial for developing innovative and effective skincare and haircare products. This underscores the need for a collaborative approach across various disciplines to fully realize and utilize the benefits of jujube extracts.

2. Application of Jujube Ingredients in Cosmetics

Incorporating jujube ingredients into cosmetic formulations can harness their specific biological activities to promote healthy, radiant, and youthful-looking skin. These typically include protection against oxidative stress and UV radiation, anti-inflammatory effects to calm skin irritation, and moisturizing benefits to enhance skin hydration and elasticity, as well as anti-aging properties that stimulate collagen production and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Jujube also offers antimicrobial properties to protect against harmful pathogens, supporting overall skin rejuvenation and revitalization and improving scalp health and hair quality. These activities and the experimental model used are summarized in Table 1.

2.1. Antioxidant Activity

Jujube extracts are renowned for their rich antioxidant content, essential for combating harmful free radicals and protecting the skin from oxidative stress caused by environmental aggressors like UV radiation and pollution [59]. This protective role is crucial in mitigating premature aging [60]. Despite the extensive research on jujube fruit extracts, which primarily focuses on its edible qualities, contemporary cosmetic formulations predominantly rely on extracts derived from jujube seeds [24].
Several in vitro studies employing assays like DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl), ABTS (2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid), and FRAP (ferric reducing antioxidant power) consistently demonstrate the antioxidant potential of aqueous and ethanolic jujube fruit extracts from various cultivars. These beneficial effects are closely associated with high levels of total phenols, total flavones, (+)-catechin, caffeic acid, and rutin [32,61]. Although jujube’s phenolic content and antioxidant activity vary throughout its growth stages, subcritical water extraction offers a method to obtain thermally stable extracts that are rich in phenolic compounds. Optimizing parameters such as temperature, extraction duration, and fruit-to-solvent ratio is crucial in achieving these benefits [62,63].
Other diverse phytochemical constituents significantly enhance the antioxidant profile of jujube fruit extracts. Notably, water-soluble polysaccharide fractions rich in uronic acid exhibit strong radical scavenging properties. These properties are due to the modified characteristics of polysaccharides and the increased solubility of their conjugates [34,64]. Triterpenoids, including ursolic acid, oleanolic acid, and maslinic acid, also bolster the antioxidant potential of jujube fruit extracts and are highly valued in cosmetic formulations [65,66,67]. Experimental studies underscore the robust cytoprotective effects of Z. jujuba fruit extract on human fibroblast cells, demonstrating effective protection against oxidative-stress-induced damage, including glutathione depletion, lipid peroxidation, DNA damage, and mitochondrial membrane potential loss. Importantly, these protective benefits are achieved without significant cytotoxicity at concentrations up to 8 mg/mL [22].
To enhance the radical scavenging properties of jujube leaf extracts, advanced extraction techniques such as UHPE, SFE−CO2, and UAE have emerged as viable alternatives to conventional methods. Both UHPE and SFE−CO2 yield significant quantities of flavonoids like kaempferol and various quercetin glycosides, including quercetin-3-O-β-l-arabinosyl-(1→2)-α-l-rhamnoside [40,41]. Additionally, studies employing UAE have identified major phenolic components in jujube leaf extracts, such as ellagic acid, caffeic acid, rosmarinic acid, and rutin [42]. Moreover, aqueous–ethanolic extracts of jujube leaves, obtained by a conventional method, were rich in saponins and demonstrated significant potential as highly effective preservatives, foaming agents, solubilizers, and emulsifiers suitable for formulating lotions and other cosmetic products [20,35,68]. These findings collectively underscore the multifaceted role of jujube in enhancing skin health and its promising applications in the field of skincare cosmetics.
Recent studies have demonstrated that jujube seed extracts with strong antioxidant activity, although obtained through UAE using 70.6% ethanol, exhibit a different flavonoid composition, further highlighting the variation in flavonoids across seeds and the influence of extraction parameters on the final profile. In one case, spinosin, isovitexin, 6‴-p-coumaroylspinosin, isovitexin glucopyranoside, and spinosin were identified, while in another, kaempferol, quercetin, rutin, apigenin, and high levels of taxifolin and silibinin were found. Additionally, UAE and conventional Soxhlet extraction (CSE) proved more efficient than heat-reflux extraction (HRE) than SFE–CO2 in yielding flavonoids [38,69].
In addition, Z. jujuba fermented with Saccharomyces cerevisiae (Zj-Y) demonstrated superior scavenging activity against radicals and a higher total polyphenol content compared to non-fermented jujube and other fermented variants [36]. The fermentation process begins with cleaning and preparing the jujube fruits, followed by inoculation with yeast. The mixture is then fermented under controlled conditions, during which the microorganisms break down sugars and produce beneficial metabolites. Fermentation increases the levels of antioxidants and other important compounds, which improves the overall antioxidant activity of the extracts. The bioavailability and stability of these bioactive compounds are also improved, making them more effective. For example, Streptococcus thermophilus can improve the antioxidant capacity of jujube fruit puree by altering the contents of pyrocatechol in fermented jujube puree via the metabolic conversion of phenylalanine. Additionally, fermentation can introduce new compounds, such as salidroside and homogentisic acid, leading to better functional properties [70,71].
In a study using C57B/6N mice as an alopecia model, topical application of Zj-Y over a 4-week period significantly promoted hair regrowth and prevented hair loss. The efficacy observed was comparable to minoxidil, a standard treatment for alopecia. These findings suggest that Zj-Y could be a promising treatment option for alopecia due to its enhanced antioxidative properties and ability to promote hair growth [36].

2.2. Anti-Inflammatory Activity

The anti-inflammatory potential of Z. jujuba Mill. extracts holds significant promise in the realm of skincare, addressing conditions such as acne, atopic dermatitis, and various inflammatory skin disorders. These extracts exhibit robust anti-inflammatory effects by modulating key molecular pathways and reducing the production of pro-inflammatory mediators.
Acne, a prevalent inflammatory skin condition, often involves the overproduction of sebum and the proliferation of the bacterium Propionibacterium acnes. Jujube extracts, particularly those rich in flavonoids and saponins, have shown potential in inhibiting the inflammatory responses associated with this condition. Flavonoids, such as quercetin and kaempferol, present in jujube, have been demonstrated to downregulate the expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines like TNF-α and IL-1β, which play pivotal roles in acne pathogenesis [72]. These compounds also inhibit the activity of enzymes like cyclooxygenase (COX) and lipoxygenase (LOX), further reducing inflammation [73]. The classic Donguibogam text in Korean medicine has identified Zizyphi Fructus as a promising medicinal herb for skincare, emphasizing its anti-inflammatory properties derived from essential oils [23]. Jujube fruit is prominently featured as the primary ingredient in two oral herbal syrups known for their effective and safe treatment of acne vulgaris [29,74,75]. Additionally, a syrup derived from Z. jujuba has shown a significant reduction in the urticaria activity score (p = 0.001) and improved sleep quality (p = 0.046) among patients with chronic spontaneous urticaria, suggesting potential as an adjunct therapy [76]. In vitro studies investigating Huangqin Tang (HQT) decoction, which incorporates jujube fruit as a key component, have demonstrated remarkable anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects. Clinically, HQT has shown efficacy in improving acne symptoms in a palmitic acid (PA)-induced SZ95 cell model. Moreover, HQT has been found to partially inhibit lipogenesis via the adenosine-monophosphate-activated protein kinase (AMPK) signaling pathway, thereby suppressing lipid accumulation and downregulating the expressions of sterol-regulatory element binding protein-1 (SREBP-1) and fatty acid synthase [43].
Atopic dermatitis (AD), another common inflammatory skin disorder characterized by chronic inflammation and disrupted skin barrier function, can benefit from the anti-inflammatory properties of jujube extracts. Polysaccharides and triterpenoids found in jujube have been shown to enhance skin barrier function and modulate immune responses [2]. These compounds can help alleviate the symptoms of AD by reducing the infiltration of inflammatory cells and decreasing the levels of inflammatory mediators such as IL-4 and IL-13. Studies on extracts from Z. jujuba var. inermis (Bunge) Rehder have highlighted their therapeutic potential in managing atopic dermatitis. These extracts were found to significantly reduce interleukin 8 (IL-8) and tumor necrosis factor (TNF-α) secretion in a human keratinocyte cell line, HaCaT, demonstrating strong anti-inflammatory properties [37]. They also inhibited hyaluronidase activity, thereby preserving skin hydration through the maintenance of hyaluronic acid levels. Additionally, the extracts demonstrated antioxidant effects, effectively shielding skin cells from oxidative stress. In a related study using NC/Nga mice with 2,4-dinitrochlorobenzene (DNCB)-induced atopic dermatitis-like lesions, researchers examined the impacts of composite oil derived from Z. jujuba var. spinosa (Bunge) Hu ex H. F. Chou [44]. The study evaluated skin clinical scores and immune cell profiles in blood and skin and analyzed molecular markers, including IgE, IL-4, IL-13, IFN-γ, and IL-5, as well as mRNA levels of COX-2, TNF-α, TGF-β1, IL-4, and IL-13. Significant improvements were observed in the groups treated with the composite oils compared to the controls, suggesting potential therapeutic benefits in managing symptoms associated with atopic dermatitis.
Moreover, the antimicrobial properties of jujube extracts contribute to their anti-inflammatory effects. By inhibiting the growth of pathogenic microorganisms on the skin, jujube extracts help prevent infections that can exacerbate inflammatory conditions. This dual action of anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects makes jujube extracts particularly valuable for treating inflammatory skin disorders.
Incorporating jujube extracts into skincare formulations can provide effective solutions for managing inflammatory skin conditions. Creams, serums, and lotions containing jujube extracts can offer soothing and calming effects, reducing redness, swelling, and discomfort associated with inflammation. Additionally, the antioxidant properties of jujube extracts further enhance their anti-inflammatory efficacy by neutralizing free radicals that contribute to inflammation and skin damage.

2.3. Antimicrobial Activities

Jujube extracts have been shown to possess significant antimicrobial properties, making them a valuable ingredient in skincare and haircare formulations. These antimicrobial activities are primarily attributed to the presence of various bioactive compounds such as flavonoids, saponins, and triterpenoids. These natural ingredients not only enhance product fragrance and texture but also improve durability and consumer safety, aligning with sustainable practices in the cosmetic industry [77].
The antimicrobial properties of jujube extracts are due to multiple mechanisms, including the disruption of microbial cell membranes, leading to cell lysis and death, interference with essential enzymes required for microbial metabolism and replication, and probably by reducing the oxidative stress on the skin and scalp, creating an inhospitable environment for microbial growth [78,79].
Antimicrobial evaluations of extracts from aerial parts of Z. jujuba revealed varying efficacy against various pathogens, emphasizing the extraction method’s influence on antimicrobial effectiveness [80,81]. Ultrasound-assisted extraction from jujube fruit pulp and seeds yielded extracts with antimicrobial activity against common culprits in skin infections and acne, namely, Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus, showing a minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) of 20 mg/mL, and importantly, no cytotoxic effects were observed [39]. Hydro-acetone and ethyl acetate extracts from jujube fruit pulp exhibited significant antioxidant activity due to their high phenolic content and demonstrated effectiveness against E. coli and S. aureus [33,45].
Flavonoid-rich extract isolated from Z. jujuba Mill. showed a potent inhibition of S. aureus biofilm formation, indicating potential antimicrobial properties [46]. Five flavonoids—epicatechin, quercetin, rutin, isoquercitrin, and hyperin—were identified in jujube fruits, with quercetin showing strong antibacterial activity against E. coli (250 μg/mL), Shigella (125 μg/mL), and Pseudomonas aeruginosa (250 μg/mL). Rutin exhibited effective inhibition of S. aureus (62.5 μg/mL), while hyperin showed activity against Bacillus subtilis (250 μg/mL) and S. aureus (62.5 μg/mL). These flavonoids exhibited enhanced antimicrobial effects under acidic conditions (pH < 6) and in the presence of specific metal ions (Na+, Ca2+, K+, Fe2+, Mg2+), particularly enhancing quercetin’s activity against various pathogens [47].
A translucent antimicrobial soap containing Z. jujube leaf extract and Aloe vera gel has been developed and assessed for its physicochemical properties and antimicrobial efficacy [48]. The soap met the pH (7.52 ± 0.02), hardness (1.3 cm ± 0.02), solubility (0.82 g ± 0.02), and foamability (6.80 cm ± 0.03) standards set by WHO/SON, indicating skin-friendliness. It demonstrated antimicrobial effectiveness against Gram-positive bacteria, like S. lentus (22 mm) and S. aureus (20 mm), Gram-negative bacteria, including E. coli (15 mm) and Raoultella ornithinolytica (12 mm), as well as fungi, such as Candida albicans (12 mm), Trichophyton rubrum (12 mm), and Aspergillus niger (10 mm), at a 500 mg/mL concentration. These results underscore the potential of jujube-derived phytochemicals as effective antimicrobial agents in skincare products.
In addition, a hair gel has been formulated using equal parts of three herbal extracts derived from Piper nigrum seeds, Hibiscus leaves, and Z. jujuba leaves [82]. Piper nigrum seed extracts, commonly used in Ayurvedic medicine, stimulate hair growth. Hibiscus leaf extracts are known for promoting hair growth and conditioning hair. Ziziphus jujuba leaf extract contributes antibacterial properties, beneficial for treating dandruff and scalp infections. The active ingredients in the jujube extract include saponins, along with fixed oils and fats.
The antimicrobial activity of jujube extracts significantly enhances their value in skincare and haircare products, providing natural, effective, and versatile solutions for maintaining skin and scalp health. Future research should continue to explore and validate these properties, ensuring their optimal use in cosmetic formulations.

2.4. Wound Healing

Jujube is renowned for its therapeutic properties, particularly in treating wounds and burns, earning it the moniker “fruit of life”. The anti-inflammatory, antiviral, antifungal, and antibacterial properties of jujube are attributed to its rich composition, including fatty acids, β-carotene, α-tocopherol, phenolic compounds, vitamins A, E, and C, tannins, cyclopeptides, caffeic acid, and flavonoids. These components enhance the wound healing properties of jujube by promoting collagen formation and tissue epithelialization [83].
A clinical trial evaluating the effect of Z. jujuba on nipple fissures in 100 breastfeeding mothers showed significant reductions in pain severity and nipple fissures in the intervention group treated with a 60% ethanolic lotion of jujube fruit, compared to a control group using breast milk. The improvements were notable on days 3, 7, and 14 [50].
Glucans isolated from an Italian cultivar of Z. jujuba Mill. were evaluated for their effects on keratinocyte viability and migration using in vitro MTT and scratch wound assays [49]. Soluble glucans from the third harvesting period at 100 µM showed the best proliferative effects on keratinocyte migration, with significant results after 24 and 48 h (p < 0.001). This treatment group also demonstrated a significant reduction in the scratch area after 24 h and a complete closure of the injury after 48 h, highlighting the effectiveness of soluble glucans in skin regeneration.
A dry extract from jujube leaves was optimized for its flavone and polyphenol-carboxylic acid content using 70% ethanol at room temperature [84]. The extract was embedded in a simple ointment (10% w/w) and was tested for wound healing in rats over 12 days using Cicatrizin as a positive control. The extract-treated group showed 82.25% healing, which was comparable to Cicatrizin (83.10%) and higher than the negative control group (76.20%, p = 0.259). Complete healing occurred after 18 days in both the Z. jujuba and Cicatrizin groups and after 20 days in the control group, with no obvious scars. A novel ointment with 10% ethanolic extract from Romanian Z. jujuba leaves was further formulated [51]. The extract contained rutin (29.836 mg/g), quercetin (15.180 mg/g), and chlorogenic acid (350.96 µg/g) as the main components. The ointment had stable organoleptic properties, a slightly acidic pH (5.41–5.42), and suitable rheological properties. It demonstrated good tolerability in rat experiments, accelerating wound healing comparably to Cicatrizin and showing anti-inflammatory effects similar to indomethacin, though not significantly different. Given its accessibility, tolerance, and efficacy in experiments, this ointment shows promise for wound healing and merits further clinical investigation.

2.5. Moisturizing and Hydrating Effects

Ziziphus jujuba Mill. extracts offer remarkable moisturizing and hydrating benefits for the skin, enhancing overall skin hydration and elasticity. These effects are primarily attributed to the presence of polysaccharides and tannins in jujube extracts, which play pivotal roles in improving skin barrier function and retaining moisture.
Polysaccharides, abundant in jujube extracts, are known for their excellent water-binding properties. These compounds form a protective film on the skin’s surface, reducing trans-epidermal water loss and promoting moisture retention [85]. By maintaining the skin’s hydration levels, polysaccharides help prevent dryness, flakiness, and the formation of fine lines [86]. This hydration boost also contributes to the overall plumpness and smoothness of the skin.
Tannins, another key component of jujube extracts, have astringent properties that help tighten the skin and minimize the appearance of pores [87]. This astringent effect not only improves the skin’s texture but also aids in moisture retention by reducing excessive oil production and maintaining a balanced skin environment. The combination of tannins and polysaccharides in jujube extracts provides a comprehensive approach to enhancing skin hydration and elasticity [88].
Studies have shown that jujube extracts, when applied topically, significantly improve skin moisture content and elasticity [28]. Jujube extracts can be incorporated into various skincare formulations, such as creams, lotions, serums, and masks, to deliver their moisturizing benefits. When combined with other hydrating ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid or glycerin, jujube extracts can further enhance the efficacy of moisturizing products, providing optimal hydration and skin rejuvenation.

2.6. Skin Brightening and Pigmentation Control

Jujube extracts hold significant promise in skin brightening and pigmentation control, offering effective solutions for achieving an even skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation [28]. The skin-brightening effects of jujube extracts are primarily attributed to their high content of vitamin C, flavonoids, and phenolic compounds, which work synergistically to inhibit melanin production and promote a radiant complexion.
Vitamin C, a potent antioxidant present in jujube extracts, plays a crucial role in inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin synthesis [89]. By reducing the activity of tyrosinase, this vitamin helps to prevent the formation of dark spots and hyperpigmentation. Additionally, vitamin C promotes collagen synthesis, improving skin texture and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The combined effects of vitamin C in jujube extracts contribute to a brighter and more youthful complexion.
Flavonoids and phenolic compounds found in jujube extracts further enhance their skin-brightening properties. These compounds exhibit strong antioxidant activity, protecting the skin from oxidative stress and preventing the accumulation of melanin. Flavonoids, such as quercetin and rutin, have been shown to reduce melanin synthesis and inhibit the transfer of melanin to the skin’s surface [55]. This dual action of melanin inhibition and antioxidant protection makes jujube extracts highly effective in achieving an even skin tone. Spinosin, a flavonoid glycoside abundant in jujube seeds, demonstrates significant skin-whitening properties. Spinosin exhibits strong inhibitory activity against tyrosinase, effectively suppressing melanogenesis induced by alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (αMSH) or UVB radiation while maintaining non-cytotoxic effects. This compound achieves its effects by forming multiple hydrogen bonds and hydrophobic interactions within the tyrosinase binding pocket [55,90]. Other flavonoid glycosides such as jujuboside A, jujuboside B, epiceanothic acid, and 6000-feruloylspinosin isolated from Z. jujuba var. inermis (Bunge) Rehder seeds have demonstrated a substantial inhibition of αMSH-induced melanogenesis and prevention of hyperpigmentation in experimental models of zebrafish larvae. These compounds act by downregulating the cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP) response element-binding protein 1 (CREB)–microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) axis and subsequent tyrosinase expression [54].
An n-butanol sub-extract from Z. jujuba fruits effectively inhibited tyrosinase with an IC50 of 18.82 ± 1.13 µg/mL, surpassing kojic acid [52]. Procyanidin B4 was the most active compound isolated from the extract, showing inhibition with an IC50 of 60.25 ± 0.88 µg/mL. Molecular docking confirmed procyanidin B4’s strong affinity for the tyrosinase active site, while pharmacokinetic assessments indicated favorable skin penetration, highlighting its potential for cosmetic applications as a tyrosinase inhibitor.
Condensed tannins extracted from jujube fruits have also been identified as potent inhibitors of tyrosinase activity [53]. These tannins interact with copper ions and specific amino acid residues in the tyrosinase active site, disrupting melanin synthesis. Their structural units include afzelechin/epiafzelechin, catechin/epicatechin, and atechin/epicatechin, further supporting their efficacy in skin-lightening applications.
Jujube fruit extracts have been incorporated into Taiwanese oral prescriptions for the treatment of facial pigmentation [91]. Meanwhile, clinical studies have demonstrated the efficacy of an oral syrup containing extracts of Z. jujuba (30% wt/wt), Berberis vulgaris (10% wt/wt), Rhus coriaria (10% wt/wt), Prunus domestica (7% wt/wt), and Rosa damascena (3% wt/wt) in reducing facial pigmentation, underscoring its potential as a safe dermatological treatment [28]. The observed benefits are attributed to the high levels of total phenolics in the syrup, particularly gallic and chlorogenic acids. Furthermore, comparative studies on extraction methods indicate that cold extraction techniques yield a higher phenolic content and stronger anti-tyrosinase activity in jujube extracts, which is crucial for developing effective skin-whitening formulations [92].
Jujube extracts can be incorporated into various skincare products, including serums, creams, and masks, to deliver their skin-brightening benefits. When combined with other brightening agents, such as niacinamide or licorice extract, jujube extracts can further enhance the efficacy of formulations targeting hyperpigmentation and dull skin. The synergistic effects of these ingredients provide a comprehensive approach to achieving a brighter, more even complexion.

2.7. Anti-Aging Effects

Jujube extracts offer promising benefits for the skin, addressing the common signs of aging such as fine lines, wrinkles, and loss of elasticity. These effects are primarily attributed to the presence of bioactive compounds like vitamin C, flavonoids, and polysaccharides, which play crucial role in promoting collagen synthesis, protecting against oxidative stress, and improving skin firmness.
Vitamin C, abundant in jujube extracts, is a key player in collagen synthesis, a vital process for maintaining skin structure and elasticity [93]. Collagen, a structural protein, provides the skin with strength and resilience. Collagen production declines with aging, leading to the formation of wrinkles and sagging skin. Vitamin C stimulates the production of collagen, thereby helping to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, vitamin C’s antioxidant properties protect collagen from degradation caused by free radicals and UV exposure, further preserving skin firmness and youthfulness [94].
Recent studies have utilized experimental animals, including Caenorhabditis elegans, aging mice, and Drosophila, to investigate the anti-aging effects of jujube. These studies have revealed promising mechanisms and benefits associated with jujube consumption.
The anti-aging mechanism of jujube fruit extracts fermented for 7 and 14 days with Laetiporus sulphureus was investigated using transgenic strains of C. elegans expressing daf-16 and mev-1 genes [95]. DAF-16 acts as a central hub that integrates signals from multiple upstream pathways to regulate the expression of genes involved in aging, development, stress responses, metabolism, and immunity [96]. This transcription factor’s activity is primarily controlled by the insulin/insulin-like growth factor 1 (IGF-1) signaling (IIS) pathway. Reduced activity in the IIS pathway is consistently linked to lifespan extension in a wide range of organisms, from worms and flies to mammals, including humans. While there was no significant difference in lifespan, the extract fermented for 7 days significantly enhanced thermal stress resistance at 200 μg/mL, showing a 12% higher survival rate than the control group. In survival tests with H2O2, this extract at 200 μg/mL exhibited significant oxidative stress resistance compared to the control. The extract fermented for 14 days showed similar effects at 100 μg/mL. Overall, the findings suggest that the observed anti-aging effects are related to daf-16 regulation and mev-1 inhibition and align with the observation that jujube fruit retains substantial in vitro antioxidant activity post-fermentation due to the preservation of multiple phenolic compounds [71,97].
A study found that a water jujube fruit extract, rich in polysaccharides, polyphenols, cAMP, and antioxidants, extended the average and maximum lifespan of C. elegans by 31% and 14%, respectively, under oxidative stress [98]. This extract also reduced the release of reactive oxygen and nitrogen species by 44% and 22%, respectively, and increased the activity of superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase (CAT) by 18% and 55%. The extract modulated the AMPK, MAPK, and IIS signaling pathways, indicating its role in energy metabolism and antioxidant defense. Another study demonstrated that a Jujubae Fructus extract significantly increased the lifespan, reproductive period, and stress resistance of C. elegans [99]. These beneficial effects were dependent on the DAF-16 transcription factor and the downstream gene SOD-3, suggesting its role in promoting longevity through stress resistance pathways.
The synergistic effects of jujube fractions rich in polysaccharides and flavonoids were studied in aging mice induced by D-galactose [35]. Both fractions improved thymus and spleen indices, increased SOD and GSH-Px activity, reduced the MDA content, and enhanced neurotransmitter levels in the brain and serum, highlighting the systemic anti-aging benefits of these compounds. Another study found that ethanol-extracted flavonoids from jujube leaves improved antioxidant enzyme activities (SOD, GSH-Px) and reduced MDA levels in the heart, liver, and serum of aging mice. Pathological observations confirmed the antioxidative ability of these flavonoids [100].
Feeding jujube fruit to Drosophila extended their lifespan and improved their health, making them more resilient to stress [56]. This effect was accompanied by a decrease in 14-3-3ε, which normally inhibits FoxO activity, and an increase in d4E-BP, a gene targeted by FoxO. This suggests that jujube fruit enhances FoxO activity, contributing to its beneficial effects on lifespan and stress tolerance in Drosophila.
Jujube extracts can be incorporated into a variety of anti-aging skincare formulations, including creams, serums, and masks. When combined with other anti-aging ingredients such as retinol or peptides, jujube extracts can further enhance the efficacy of these formulations, providing comprehensive anti-aging benefits for the skin.

2.8. UV Protection

Recent studies have extensively examined the effects and applications of jujube extracts compared to extracts from olive and green tea in skincare and health. Jujube extracts have shown promising sun protection factor (SPF) values, ranging from 6.36 to 8.57, effectively shielding human fibroblast cells from UVB-induced damage [57]. These extracts also significantly decreased the levels of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) MMP-2 and MMP-9, which are critical indicators of skin aging due to their role in collagen degradation [58]. MMP-2 possesses the ability to cleave gelatin as well as type I and type IV collagens, whereas MMP-9 primarily digests type IV collagen and lacks the capability to directly proteolyze type I collagen [101]. This suggests that jujube extracts may offer a dual benefit of UV protection and anti-aging effects by preserving collagen integrity.
Green tea extracts exhibited significant protective effects against UVB-induced damage, particularly at a concentration of 0.5 mg/mL. Among the natural extracts, acetone olive extracts demonstrated the highest SPF value of 17.53, suggesting their potential as natural alternatives to conventional sunscreens [57]. Additionally, all three extracts—jujube, green tea, and olive—showed potent antioxidant properties. Jujube extracts effectively mitigated oxidative stress and supported cellular protection against environmental stressors. Green tea extracts neutralized free radicals induced by UV radiation, enhancing skin cell defense and promoting overall skin health. Olive extracts, rich in phenolic compounds, exhibited robust antioxidant activity, contributing to skin repair and protection against oxidative damage.
Furthermore, jujube extracts displayed notable antimicrobial activity, particularly against pathogens like C. albicans and Vibrio anguillarum, underscoring their potential for inclusion in pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations [102]. Green tea extracts, well known for their antioxidant benefits, also possess antimicrobial properties advantageous for skincare applications. In addition, olive extracts are likely to offer similar antimicrobial benefits due to their bioactive constituents. Continued research and formulation studies could further optimize the synergistic use of these natural extracts in enhancing the efficacy and sustainability of personal care products.

3. Future Directions

To enhance the use of jujube in cosmetics, several key research areas must be addressed (Figure 1). One priority is developing sustainable and scalable extraction methods that are eco-friendly and cost-effective, ensuring a consistent supply of high-quality jujube extracts while minimizing their environmental impact [51]. Green extraction techniques, such as supercritical CO2 extraction, enzyme-assisted extraction, and microwave-assisted extraction, should be explored. Methods used for obtaining jujube extracts and their potential application in cosmetics are summarized in Table 2. Additionally, phytochemical profiling is essential for identifying and quantifying bioactive compounds in different parts of jujube plants, including its fruit, seeds, and leaves. Advanced analytical techniques like high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), ultra-performance liquid chromatography–electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (UPLC-ESI-MS), gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC-MS), and nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopy can be used to profile the phytochemicals in jujube [103].
Further research is also crucial to establish the efficacy and safety of jujube extracts in both cosmetic and hair care products. While existing studies have demonstrated their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, comprehensive clinical trials are needed to validate these benefits in real-world applications. These trials should assess the effectiveness of jujube extracts in addressing specific skin and hair concerns, such as aging, hyperpigmentation, hydration, and hair health, through randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled studies [51,103,104]. Long-term studies are also necessary to evaluate the sustained benefits and potential side effects of jujube formulations, including trials involving diverse populations for broader applicability [15].
In addition to clinical trials, mechanistic studies are essential for understanding how jujube phytochemicals interact with skin cells and hair cells at the molecular level [15]. In vitro and in vivo studies can help clarify the pathways through which jujube extracts exert their effects, such as antioxidant defense mechanisms, anti-inflammatory pathways, and collagen synthesis [15].
Table 2. Extraction methods, bioactive compounds, and cosmetic applications of jujube extracts.
Table 2. Extraction methods, bioactive compounds, and cosmetic applications of jujube extracts.
Jujube MaterialExtraction SolventType of Extraction *Key Bioactive CompoundsPotential Use in CosmeticsReference
FruitsEtOH (20–100%); MeOHUAESaponins, phenolic compoundsImprove skin health, combat signs of aging, and enhance overall appearance. Foaming agent.[35]
67% EtOHUAE(+)-Catechin, rutin, caffeic and ascorbic acidsCounteract skin damage from free radicals and environmental stressors.[32]
29% EtOH, 15% (NH4)2SO4UAATPEPolysaccharidesBoost skin health, mitigate age-related signs, and refine overall appearance.[105]
H2OMAEPolysaccharidesEmulsifying agent, antioxidant formulations, and anti-aging products.[106]
H2OUHPE, DES, UHPE-DESPolysaccharidesSkin microbiome balance, improve moisture retention, calming properties, and inflammation reduction.[17]
H2OSWEPolysaccharidesCellular safeguard from free radical damage.[34]
H2OSWEGallic, chlorogenic, p-coumaric, and ferulic acids, rutinFree radical neutralizer.[63]
VariousCSEN.m.Microbial control agent.[107]
H2OSLE (Deco)Phenolic compoundsAnti-sun damage and UVB shielding.[58]
H2OSLE (Deco)N.m.Stimulate collagen formation.[22]
70% AcetoneSLE (Mac)Condensed tanninsSkin lightening, wrinkle-reducing, and antioxidant-rich.[53]
65% EtOHSLE (Mac)FlavonoidsAntibacterial agent.[47]
H2OSLE (Mac)N.m.Targeting atopic dermatitis and providing hydration.[37]
Peels80% EtOHUAEGallic, chlorogenic,
caffeic, p-coumaric, and ferulic acids; coumarin, (+)-catechin, quercetin, (−)-epicatechin, rutin
Oxidation-inhibiting agent.[62]
EtOHEAE3-O-galactoside and cyanidin 3-O-rutinoside chlorideNatural pigment with antioxidant benefits.[108]
Seeds70.6% EtOHUAE, HRESpinosin, isovitexin, 6‴-p-coumaroylspinosin, isovitexin glucopyranoside, and spinosinWrinkle reducing and free radical fighting.[38]
MeOHUAEPhenolic compoundsAntioxidant and antimicrobial properties.[39]
70.6% EtOH, 50% EtOH, CO2UAE, CSE, SFE-CO2Taxifolin, silibinin, kaempferol, quercetin, rutin, and apigeninAntioxidant properties.[69]
VariousCSENot mentionedAntimicrobial agent.[107]
MeOHSLE (Mac-MS)N.m.Dandruff fighting.[27]
Leaves25% MeOHUAEEllagic, caffeic, and rosmarinic acids, rutinOxidation-inhibiting agent.[42]
70% MeOHUAEKaempferol and quercetin glycosidesCellular shield against oxidative stress.[40]
CO2SFE−CO2Kaempferol and quercetin glycosidesFree radical neutralizer.[41]
70% MeOHUHPEKaempferol and quercetin glycosidesCellular shield against oxidative stress.[40]
VariousCSEN.m.Antimicrobial agent.[107]
MeOHSLE (Mac-MS)N.m.Dandruff fighting.[27]
80% MeOHSLE (Mac)Phenolic compoundsAntioxidant and antimicrobial properties.[109]
96% MeOH, H2OSLE (Mac)N.m.Oxidation-inhibiting agent, preservative, foaming agent, solubilizer, and emulsifier.[68]
* UAE—ultrasound-assisted extraction; UAATPE—ultrasound-assisted aqueous two-phase; MAE—microwave-assisted extraction; UHPE—ultra-high-pressure extraction; DES—deep eutectic solvent extraction; UHPE-DES -ultra-high-pressure-assisted DES; SWE—subcritical water extraction; CSE—conventional Soxhlet extraction; SLE (Deco)—solid–liquid extraction using decoction; SLE (Mac)—solid–liquid extraction using maceration; EAE- enzyme-assisted extraction; HD—hydrodistillation; SLE (Mac-MS)—solid–liquid extraction using maceration with magnetic stirring; HRE—heat reflux extraction; SFE−CO2—supercritical fluid extraction with carbon dioxide; N.m.—not mentioned.
To advance research on jujube extracts, interdisciplinary collaborations are essential. Collaborations with pharmacologists and chemists will deepen the understanding of jujube’s bioactive compounds and their mechanisms of action, critical for developing effective cosmetic and hair care formulations. Partnerships with dermatologists and clinical researchers will be crucial for conducting clinical trials and safety assessments. Working with material scientists can help develop innovative delivery systems, such as nanoencapsulation, to improve the stability and efficacy of jujube extracts. Additionally, coordination with environmental scientists will ensure sustainable cultivation practices and assess the environmental impact of jujube production.
Addressing these research needs and fostering interdisciplinary collaborations will provide a strong evidence base supporting the use of jujube extracts in cosmetics and hair care products, ensuring their safety and effectiveness while promoting broader industry adoption.

4. Conclusions

Jujube (Ziziphus jujuba Mill.) extracts have great potential for enhancing skin and hair health due to their rich content of bioactive compounds such as flavonoids, polyphenols, vitamin C, polysaccharides, tannins, and saponins. These compounds deliver a variety of benefits, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, brightening, and anti-aging effects, making jujube a versatile ingredient in cosmetic formulations.
In skincare, jujube extracts protect against oxidative stress, reduce inflammation, improve hydration and elasticity, brighten the skin, and combat aging. These properties make them ideal for use in creams, serums, lotions, and masks. In haircare, they promote scalp health, stimulate hair growth, and strengthen hair strands. Jujube extracts in shampoos, conditioners, and hair masks offer a complete solution for healthy, resilient hair.
The growing interest in natural cosmetic ingredients underscores the need for continued research into jujube’s bioactive properties. Advances in extraction methods and formulation techniques will enable the development of potent products that maximize the potential of jujube.
As research progresses, jujube extracts are poised to play a significant role in the cosmetic industry, offering natural solutions for both skin and hair wellness.

Author Contributions

Methodology: D.B. and K.N.; software: A.G.; formal analysis: K.N.; investigation: A.G.; data curation: A.G. and K.N.; writing—original draft preparation: K.N. and D.B.; writing—review and editing: D.B. and K.N.; visualization: A.G.; supervision: K.N. and D.B.; project administration: K.N.; funding acquisition: K.N. All authors have read and agreed to the published version of the manuscript.

Funding

This study was financed by the European Union—Next Generation EU, through the National Recovery and Resilience Plan of the Republic of Bulgaria, project № BG-RRP-2.004-0009-C02.

Data Availability Statement

Datasets from the time of this study are available from the respective authors upon reasonable request.

Acknowledgments

Special thanks to the Medical University, Varna, and the European Union for the financial support provided for the publication of this paper.

Conflicts of Interest

The authors declare no conflicts of interest.

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Figure 1. Future directions in the utilization of the therapeutic potential of jujube in cosmetics.
Figure 1. Future directions in the utilization of the therapeutic potential of jujube in cosmetics.
Cosmetics 11 00181 g001
Table 1. Summary of bioactivities of jujube extracts, bioactive compounds, and the experimental model used.
Table 1. Summary of bioactivities of jujube extracts, bioactive compounds, and the experimental model used.
Type of ActivityPlant PartBioactive CompoundsExperimental ModelReference
AntioxidantFruitsPhenolic compoundsDPPH, ABTS•+, FRAP[32]
FruitsPhenolic compoundsDPPH, FRAP, BCB assay[33]
FruitsPolysaccharidesDPPH, •OH[34]
FruitsN.m.TBHP-induced oxidative stress in human fibroblast cells, DPPH, FRAP[22]
FruitsSaponins, phenolicsDPPH, FRAP, •OH, H2O2, PM[35]
Fermented fruitsN.m.DPPH, •OH[36]
FruitsN.m.DPPH, HDF-n cells[37]
SeedsFlavonoidsDPPH, ABTS•+, O2, •OH, PC12 cells[38]
SeedsPhenolic compoundsDPPH, oxidative stability assessment (Rancimat method)[39]
LeavesFlavonoidsDPPH, ABTS•+[40]
LeavesFlavonoidsABTS•+, FRAP, T-AOC in serum[41]
LeavesPhenolic acidsDPPH[42]
Anti-inflammatoryFruits/Huangqin TangN.m.PA-induced SZ95 cell model[43]
FruitsN.m.HaCaT cells[37]
FruitsComposite oilDNCB-induced atopic dermatitis-like skin lesions in NC/Nga mice[44]
AntimicrobialFruitsPhenolic compoundsE. coli, S. aureus[45]
FruitsFlavonoidsS. aureus biofilm[46]
FruitsFlavonoidsE. coli, S. aureus, P. aeruginosa[47]
Fruits/aloe vera gelN.m.S. lentus, S. aureus, E. coli, R. ornithinolytica, C. albicans, T. rubrum, A. niger[48]
SeedsPhenolic compoundsE. coli, S. aureus[39]
Wound healingFruitsGlucansIn vitro scratch test in HaCaT cells[49]
FruitsN.m.Double-blind clinical trial, breast fissures in breast-feeding mothers[50]
LeavesFlavonoids, phenolic acidsNew Zealand albino rabbits[51]
Skin brighteningFruitsProcyanidin B4In vitro mushroom tyrosinase activity assay[52]
FruitsCondensed tanninsIn vitro interactions with tyrosinase[53]
SeedsFlavonoid glycosides, phenolic acidsαMSH-induced melanogenesis in zebra fish, in vitro MTA[54]
SeedsSpinosinB16F10 cells
induced by αMSH- or UVB
[55]
Anti-aging effectsFruitsPolysaccharides and flavonoidsKunming mice[35]
FruitsN.m.Live Drosophila model[56]
UV protectionFruitsN.m.Pyrogallol-induced SOD-like activity in HaCaT cells[37]
FruitsFlavonoidsSPF in vitro[57]
Fruits/green teaN.m.UVB irradiation in HDF-n cells, MMP-2 and MMP-9[58]
DPPH—2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl; ABTS•+—2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) radical cation; FRAP—ferric reducing antioxidant power assay; BCB assay—β-carotene bleaching assay; •OH—hydroxyl radicals; TBHP—tert-butyl hydroperoxide; PM—phosphorus molybdenum; HDF-n—human dermal fibroblast cells; PC12 cells—derived from a transplantable rat pheochromocytoma; Rancimat method—the sample is subjected to accelerated oxidation at 120 °C using a Rancimat apparatus, where the device forces air through the oil at a flow rate of 15 L/h, speeding up the oxidation process; T-AOC—total antioxidant capacity; Huangqin Tang—a famous prescription with detoxifying effect; SZ95 cells—human sebaceous gland cell lines; PA—palmitic acid; HaCaT cells—human keratinocyte cells; DNCB—1-chloro-2,4-dinitrobenzene (induces allergic skin reactions); MTA—mushroom tyrosinase activity assay; αMSH—α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone; B16F10 cells—derived from a metastatic melanoma of C57BL/6 mice; daf-16—gene affecting the lifespan and stress responses of C. elegans; mev-1—gene associated with mitochondrial function and oxidative stress; UVB—ultraviolet B; SOD—superoxide dismutase; SPF—sun protection factor; MMP-2 and MMP-9—matrix metalloproteases with important roles in photo-aging of the skin; N.m.—not mentioned.
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Batovska, D.; Gerasimova, A.; Nikolova, K. Exploring the Therapeutic Potential of Jujube (Ziziphus jujuba Mill.) Extracts in Cosmetics: A Review of Bioactive Properties for Skin and Hair Wellness. Cosmetics 2024, 11, 181. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11050181

AMA Style

Batovska D, Gerasimova A, Nikolova K. Exploring the Therapeutic Potential of Jujube (Ziziphus jujuba Mill.) Extracts in Cosmetics: A Review of Bioactive Properties for Skin and Hair Wellness. Cosmetics. 2024; 11(5):181. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11050181

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Batovska, Daniela, Anelia Gerasimova, and Krastena Nikolova. 2024. "Exploring the Therapeutic Potential of Jujube (Ziziphus jujuba Mill.) Extracts in Cosmetics: A Review of Bioactive Properties for Skin and Hair Wellness" Cosmetics 11, no. 5: 181. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11050181

APA Style

Batovska, D., Gerasimova, A., & Nikolova, K. (2024). Exploring the Therapeutic Potential of Jujube (Ziziphus jujuba Mill.) Extracts in Cosmetics: A Review of Bioactive Properties for Skin and Hair Wellness. Cosmetics, 11(5), 181. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11050181

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