Cosmetics

13 pages, 1925 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Ethnic Differences in Women’s Perception of Simulated Facial Aging over a 15-Year Horizon: A GAN-Based Model Approach

by Frederic Flament, Panagiotis-Alexandros Bokaris, Julien Despois, Frederic Woodland, Adrien Chretien, Paul Tartrat and Guive Balooch

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 154; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040154 (registering DOI) - 21 Jul 2025

Abstract

This study assessed the accuracy of a long-term AI-based projection of signs of facial aging and their acceptance by consumers. Standardized photographs of 25 Chinese and 25 French women were first taken at T0 and graded using ethnic-specific skin aging atlases. An AI-based [...] Read more.

This study assessed the accuracy of a long-term AI-based projection of signs of facial aging and their acceptance by consumers. Standardized photographs of 25 Chinese and 25 French women were first taken at T0 and graded using ethnic-specific skin aging atlases. An AI-based algorithm then aged the photographs by 10 (T10) and 15 (T15) years. A total of 246 women from China, France, and Thailand compared these images in pairs (T0 vs. T0 + 10 or T0 + 15) and provided feedback on their overall impressions, realism, and psychological acceptance via a questionnaire. Besides lower face ptosis (p < 0.01), the simulated images revealed that regardless of ethnicity, there were no significant differences in grading. Irrespective of ethnic background, 62–78% of overall panelists found the projections realistic and liked them, while 85–96% of panelists (Chinese and French) were willing to test them. A total of 47% of Thai panelists were reluctant to try, while 4–14% found it scary. This indicated some degree of cultural influence. This study confirms women’s acceptance of future facial appearance with some degree of cultural divergence. It also highlights a valid methodology to explore skin aging for a more realistic and personalized cosmetic improvement and innovation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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17 pages, 3907 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Safety Validation of Plant-Derived Materials for Skin Application

by Euihyun Kim, Hyo Hyun Seo, Dong Sun Shin, Jihyeok Song, Seon Kyu Yun, Jeong Hun Lee and Sang Hyun Moh

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 153; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040153 - 21 Jul 2025

Abstract

The cosmetic industry faces a critical need to balance commercial innovation with scientific validation, especially regarding the safety and efficacy of raw materials. Plant-derived materials (PDMs) offer a promising alternative to animal-derived ingredients in cosmetics, particularly due to their safety and compliance with [...] Read more.

The cosmetic industry faces a critical need to balance commercial innovation with scientific validation, especially regarding the safety and efficacy of raw materials. Plant-derived materials (PDMs) offer a promising alternative to animal-derived ingredients in cosmetics, particularly due to their safety and compliance with vegan and ethical standards. Unlike compounds such as polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN), which is derived from the testis or seminal fluid of Salmonidae species and raises concerns regarding its origin, sustainability, and consumer acceptability, PDMs provide a cleaner, ethically preferable profile. In this study, we evaluated 50 PDM candidates using in vitro cell viability, wound healing, and immunocytochemistry assays, along with primary skin irritation tests in human participants. None of the samples showed harmful effects. Notably, sample Nos. 38 and 42 demonstrated significant wound-healing capacity and upregulated filaggrin expression without causing notable irritation in clinical testing. These findings support the biological activity and safety of specific PDMs as functional cosmetic ingredients. This study presents scientifically validated evidence for plant-based alternatives to animal-derived materials and offers a new milestone in the shift toward sustainable and ethical cosmetic development. By bridging the gap between consumer demand and scientific rigor, this study provides a robust platform for future innovations in vegan cosmetics. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)

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21 pages, 7139 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Comparative Study of a Topical and Oral Combination Therapy Containing Oleanolic Acid, Apigenin, and Biotinyl Tripeptide-1 in Patients with Androgenetic Alopecia: A Prospective, Open-Label Trial

by Vlad-Mihai Voiculescu and Mihai Lupu

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 152; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040152 - 16 Jul 2025

Abstract

Background: Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is a prevalent condition characterized by progressive follicular miniaturization. Minoxidil topical treatment and finasteride oral treatment are the golden standard, but they are limited by local and systemic adverse effects. Combination therapies targeting both follicular stimulation and nutritional support [...] Read more.

Background: Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is a prevalent condition characterized by progressive follicular miniaturization. Minoxidil topical treatment and finasteride oral treatment are the golden standard, but they are limited by local and systemic adverse effects. Combination therapies targeting both follicular stimulation and nutritional support may enhance clinical outcomes. Objective: To evaluate the efficacy of a combined topical and oral therapy compared to topical monotherapy in patients with AGA using trichoscopic and clinical parameters. Methods: In this open-label, prospective trial, 48 patients were assigned to receive either a topical spray alone (Group A) or in combination with oral capsules (Group B) for 3 months. Trichoscopic parameters were assessed at baseline and post-treatment. Paired and independent t-tests, along with Cohen’s d effect sizes, were used to evaluate intra- and inter-group changes. Results: Both groups demonstrated improvements in hair density, thickness, and anagen/telogen ratio. Group B exhibited significantly greater increases in total hair count and anagen conversion (p < 0.05). The effect sizes ranged from small to large, with the most pronounced changes observed in anagen/telogen ratio (Cohen’s d = 0.841) in males. Conclusions: The combination of topical and oral treatment led to greater trichologic improvements than topical therapy alone. While extrapolated projections at 6 and 12 months suggest continued benefit, future studies with longer duration and placebo controls are required to validate these findings. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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21 pages, 2229 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Unlocking the Skin Health-Promoting Ingredients of Honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica Thunberg) Flower-Loaded Polyglycerol Fatty Acid Ester-Based Low-Energy Nanoemulsions

by Nara Yaowiwat, Pingtawan Bunmark, Siripat Chaichit, Worrapan Poomanee and Karnkamol Trisopon

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 151; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040151 - 15 Jul 2025

Abstract

This study aims to provide a comprehensive evaluation of the bioactive compounds present in honeysuckle flower (Lonicera japonica Thunb.) extract (HSF) and their remarkable antioxidant activity. A docking simulation was performed to clarify the binding affinities of the identified phytochemicals to enzymes [...] Read more.

This study aims to provide a comprehensive evaluation of the bioactive compounds present in honeysuckle flower (Lonicera japonica Thunb.) extract (HSF) and their remarkable antioxidant activity. A docking simulation was performed to clarify the binding affinities of the identified phytochemicals to enzymes associated with anti-aging and anti-inflammatory activities. In addition, the low-energy nanoemulsions based on optimally formulated polyglycerol fatty acid esters (PGFEs), developed through D-optimality, were designed for the incorporation of HSF extract. The result revealed that HSF is a rich source of diverse phenolic and flavonoid compounds that contribute to its remarkable antioxidant capacity. Molecular docking analysis indicates that its compounds exhibit anti-aging and anti-inflammatory activities, particularly through collagenase, hyaluronidase, and TNF-α inhibition. Furthermore, D-optimality revealed that HSF-loaded nanoemulsions can be fabricated by a surfactant to oil ratio (SOR) of 2:1 with a ratio of low hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) surfactant to high HLB surfactant (LHR) of 1:2. Polyglyceryl-6 laurate as a high HLB surfactant produced the optimal nanoemulsion with small particle size and possessed an encapsulation efficiency (EE) of 74.32 ± 0.19%. This is the first report to combine D-optimal design-based nanoemulsion development with a multi-level analysis of HSF, including phytochemical profiling, antioxidant evaluation, and in silico molecular docking. These findings highlight that HSF-loaded polyglycerol fatty acid ester-based nanoemulsions could be a skin health-promoting ingredient and effective alternative for a variety of skincare applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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23 pages, 1290 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Unlocking Nature’s Anti-Aging Secrets: The Potential of Natural Mineral Waters Combined with Plant Extracts in Cosmetics

by Ana Rita Gama, Carolina P. Gomes, Cátia Caetano, Ana Sofia Oliveira, Joana Rolo, Lillian Barros, Paula Plasencia, Juliana Garcia, Daniela Correia, Maria José Alves, José Martinez-de-Oliveira, Ana Palmeira-de-Oliveira and Rita Palmeira-de-Oliveira

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 150; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040150 - 14 Jul 2025

Abstract

Skin aging is influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, leading to structural changes in the skin. Current anti-aging cosmetic trends emphasize innovative natural ingredients, including plant extracts, thermal waters, and botanical hydrolats. This work aims to develop six natural anti-aging cosmetics (two serums, [...] Read more.

Skin aging is influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, leading to structural changes in the skin. Current anti-aging cosmetic trends emphasize innovative natural ingredients, including plant extracts, thermal waters, and botanical hydrolats. This work aims to develop six natural anti-aging cosmetics (two serums, two day creams, and two night creams) with innovative and non-irritating profiles. The rational design was guided by market analysis and ingredient properties. Prototype formulations were created with two core mixtures: (1) natural mineral water from Termas de Unhais da Serra and Thymus × citriodorus hydrolat and (2) natural mineral water from Termas de Chaves and aqueous Vaccinium myrtillus (blueberry) extract. The products were evaluated for stability (4 °C and 40 °C, 4 weeks), safety (according to EC Regulation No. 1223/2009), including in vitro testing for skin irritation potential (epiderm model; OECD TG 439). The market study highlighted a gap in anti-aging products combining natural extracts and thermal waters. All prototypes showed desirable textures and remained stable under test conditions. No irritating effects were observed. The results support the development of effective anti-aging cosmetics rooted in natural resources. These innovative products can meet the market demand for natural and sustainable skincare solutions. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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22 pages, 1267 KiB

Open AccessReview

Beauty’s Blind Spot: Unmasking the Ocular Side Effects and Concerns of Eye Cosmetics

by Kasra Cheraqpour

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 149; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040149 - 14 Jul 2025

Abstract

Nowadays, a significant portion of the population uses eye cosmetics, a trend that is not limited to women, as men increasingly adopt stylish makeup techniques. Eye cosmetics, often termed eye makeup, include a diverse array of products such as eyelash enhancers (mascara, false [...] Read more.

Nowadays, a significant portion of the population uses eye cosmetics, a trend that is not limited to women, as men increasingly adopt stylish makeup techniques. Eye cosmetics, often termed eye makeup, include a diverse array of products such as eyelash enhancers (mascara, false eyelashes, growth serums, and dyes), eyelid products (eyeliner, kohl, eye contour cream, and eyeshadow), and eye makeup removers. There is a persistent interest among dermatologists in the influence of eye cosmetics on the skin surrounding the eye. The formulation of these cosmetics typically consists of various ingredients, some of which may present potential health risks to users. The application of eye cosmetics is linked to a range of adverse effects on the ocular surface, which may manifest as mechanical injury, tear film instability, toxicity, inflammation, and infections. Therefore, the use of cosmetics in this sensitive area is of paramount importance, necessitating a cooperative approach among eyecare professionals, dermatologists, and beauty experts. Despite the widespread use of eye makeup, its possible ocular side effects have not been sufficiently addressed. This report aims to elucidate how the use of eye cosmetics represents a lifestyle challenge that may exacerbate or initiate ocular surface and adnexal disorders. Full article

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12 pages, 1563 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Effectiveness and Safety of 1470 nm Non-Ablative Laser Therapy for the Treatment of Striae Distensae: A Pilot Study

by Paweł Kubik, Stefano Bighetti, Luca Bettolini, Wojciech Gruszczyński, Bartłomiej Łukasik, Stefania Guida, Giorgio Stabile, Giovanni Paolino, Elisa María Murillo Herrera, Andrea Carugno, Mario Valenti, Cristina Zane, Vincenzo Maione, Edoardo D’Este and Nicola Zerbinati

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 148; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040148 - 11 Jul 2025

Abstract

Striae distensae (SD), or stretch marks, are a common aesthetic concern with limited effective treatment options. This prospective, single-center, open-label study aimed to evaluate the efficacy and safety of 1470 nm non-ablative laser therapy in improving skin texture and reducing SD dimensions. Twenty [...] Read more.

Striae distensae (SD), or stretch marks, are a common aesthetic concern with limited effective treatment options. This prospective, single-center, open-label study aimed to evaluate the efficacy and safety of 1470 nm non-ablative laser therapy in improving skin texture and reducing SD dimensions. Twenty healthy female volunteers (aged 19–56) with SD of varying stages underwent three laser sessions at three-week intervals. Treatments were delivered using energy densities of 28–35 mJ per point with spot spacing of 0.8–1.2 mm, uniformly delivered over the affected SD lesions. Assessments were performed at baseline, Day 14, Day 35, Day 56–70, and Day 118–132. SD depth and width were measured using high-frequency ultrasound; aesthetic improvement was assessed using the Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale (GAIS), alongside clinical and photographic evaluations. A statistically significant, progressive reduction in SD size was observed: mean depth decreased from 0.34 mm (SD = 0.16) to 0.18 mm (SD = 0.15), and width decreased from 6.58 mm (SD = 2.65) to 4.40 mm (SD = 2.52) by Day 118–132 (p < 0.01 for both). Most participants reported improvement on GAIS at each follow-up. No severe adverse events occurred; only mild, transient erythema and edema were noted. In conclusion, 1470 nm non-ablative laser therapy showed significant efficacy and a favorable safety profile in SD treatment, offering a promising non-invasive option based on fractional thermal stimulation and selective dermal absorption. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Laser Therapy and Phototherapy in Cosmetic Dermatology)

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18 pages, 907 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Evaluating Coffee and Rosemary Extracts as Sustainable Alternatives to Synthetic Preservatives

by Luiza Aparecida Luna Silvério, Érica Mendes dos Santos, Josélia Cristina de Oliveira Moreira, Ana Lucia Tasca Gois Ruiz, Karina Cogo-Müller, Janaína Artem Ataide, Ana Cláudia Paiva-Santos and Priscila Gava Mazzola

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 147; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040147 - 11 Jul 2025

Abstract

Preservatives are essential for ensuring the stability, safety, and efficacy of pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, and food products. However, synthetic preservatives often raise toxicity concerns. This study evaluated Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extracts and coffee by-products from Coffea arabica and Coffea canephora as potential natural [...] Read more.

Preservatives are essential for ensuring the stability, safety, and efficacy of pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, and food products. However, synthetic preservatives often raise toxicity concerns. This study evaluated Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extracts and coffee by-products from Coffea arabica and Coffea canephora as potential natural preservatives for emulsions. Antimicrobial activity was assessed against Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Candida albicans, along with cytotoxicity tests on human keratinocytes and antioxidant activity. The most effective extracts were incorporated into an oil-in-water emulsion for evaluation. C. arabica extracts showed the best results among coffee samples, with 43.53 mg GAE/g (gallic acid equivalents) and 2.32 mg QE/g of total phenolics (quercetin equivalents) and flavonoids, and minimum inhibitory concentrations (MICs) of 12.5 mg/mL against Escherichia coli, and 25 mg/mL against Staphylococcus aureus and Pseudomonas aeruginosa. Rosemary extract showed 158.01 ± 23.67 mg GAE/g and 1.95 ± 0.05 mg QE/g, with MICs of 2.5 mg/mL against E. coli, 1.25 mg/mL against P. aeruginosa, 0.3 mg/mL against S. aureus, and 0.08 mg/mL against Candida albicans. However, rosemary extracts displayed complete inhibition of keratinocyte growth at 20 µg/mL. A combination of both extracts had synergistic effects against S. aureus and P. aeruginosa. The emulsion met microbial safety standards in the challenge test for bacteria but not yeast. The results suggest that rosemary extracts enhance the potential of coffee by-product as a preservative system, and as a multifunctional excipient system in cosmetics, offering preservation and antioxidant protection. However, further strategies, such as adding other ingredients or adjusting the formulation pH, are required to ensure yeast inhibition. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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21 pages, 2264 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Stability, Bioactivity, and Skin Penetration of Prunus Leaf Extracts in Cream Formulations: A Clinical Study on Skin Irritation

by Lapatrada Mungmai, Eakkaluk Wongwad, Patcharawan Tanamatayarat, Tammanoon Rungsang, Pattavet Vivattanaseth, Nattapol Aunsri and Weeraya Preedalikit

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 146; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040146 - 10 Jul 2025

Abstract

Prunus leaf extracts are rich in phenolic and flavonoid compounds like rutin, and they are known for their antioxidant potential. This study compares the bioactivity and stability of leaf extracts from Prunus domestica L. (EL), Prunus salicina Lindl. (JL), and Prunus cerasifera Ehrh. [...] Read more.

Prunus leaf extracts are rich in phenolic and flavonoid compounds like rutin, and they are known for their antioxidant potential. This study compares the bioactivity and stability of leaf extracts from Prunus domestica L. (EL), Prunus salicina Lindl. (JL), and Prunus cerasifera Ehrh. (CL) and evaluates the dermal safety of a cream containing the extract with the most favorable in vitro properties for potential cosmetic use. Ethanolic extracts were assessed for total phenolic and condensed tannin contents, as well as antioxidants, using DPPH assay and lipid peroxidation inhibitory activities. The CL extract exhibited moderate total phenolic content, the highest condensed tannin content, and strong antioxidant (IC₅₀ = 22.1 ± 3.1 µg/mL) and anti-lipid peroxidation (62.3 ± 1.0%) activities. Based on these results, CL was incorporated into a cream formulation (CCL), which was then evaluated for physicochemical properties, antioxidant retention, and in vitro skin permeation using Franz diffusion cells. The formulation remained physically stable under ambient conditions and retained antioxidant activity above 74.5% under thermal cycling conditions. Rutin from the CCL formulation was retained within the Strat-M™ membrane (4.0 ± 1.1%), which was 5.7-fold higher than that of the control (0.7 ± 0.6%) over 8 h; however, it was not detected in the receptor chamber under these in vitro conditions. A semi-open patch test conducted on 26 healthy volunteers under double-blind conditions revealed no signs of irritation, confirming the formulation’s dermal safety. Overall, the findings support the feasibility of using P. cerasifera extract as a stable antioxidant component in topical skincare formulations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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12 pages, 315 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Prediction of Shampoo Formulation Phase Stability Using Large Language Models

by Erwan Bigan and Stéphane Dufour

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 145; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040145 - 10 Jul 2025

Abstract

Predictive formulation can help reduce the number of experiments required to reach a target cosmetic product. The performance of Large Language Models from the open source Llama family is compared with that of conventional machine learning to predict the phase stability of shampoo [...] Read more.

Predictive formulation can help reduce the number of experiments required to reach a target cosmetic product. The performance of Large Language Models from the open source Llama family is compared with that of conventional machine learning to predict the phase stability of shampoo formulations using a recently published dataset. The predictive strength is assessed for various train dataset sizes (obtained by stratified sampling of the full dataset) and for various Large Language Model sizes (3, 8, and 70B parameters). The predictive strength is found to increase on increasing the model size, and the Large-Language-Model-based approach outperforms conventional machine learning when the train dataset is small, delivering Area Under the Receiver Operating Curve above 0.7 with as few as 20 train samples. This work illustrates the potential of Large Language Models to further reduce the number of experiments required to reach a target cosmetic formulation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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29 pages, 1189 KiB

Open AccessReview

Decoding Skin Aging: A Review of Mechanisms, Markers, and Modern Therapies

by Jorge Naharro-Rodriguez, Stefano Bacci, Maria Luisa Hernandez-Bule, Alfonso Perez-Gonzalez and Montserrat Fernandez-Guarino

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 144; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040144 - 10 Jul 2025

Abstract

Skin aging is a multifactorial process driven by both intrinsic mechanisms—such as telomere shortening, oxidative stress, hormonal decline, and impaired autophagy—and extrinsic influences including ultraviolet radiation, pollution, smoking, and diet. Together, these factors lead to the structural and functional deterioration of the skin, [...] Read more.

Skin aging is a multifactorial process driven by both intrinsic mechanisms—such as telomere shortening, oxidative stress, hormonal decline, and impaired autophagy—and extrinsic influences including ultraviolet radiation, pollution, smoking, and diet. Together, these factors lead to the structural and functional deterioration of the skin, manifesting as wrinkles, pigmentation disorders, thinning, and reduced elasticity. This review provides an integrative overview of the biological, molecular, and clinical dimensions of skin aging, emphasizing the interplay between inflammation, extracellular matrix degradation, and senescence-associated signaling pathways. We examine histopathological hallmarks and molecular markers and discuss the influence of genetic and ethnic variations on aging phenotypes. Current therapeutic strategies are explored, ranging from topical agents (e.g., retinoids, antioxidants, niacinamide) to procedural interventions such as lasers, intense pulsed light, photodynamic therapy, microneedling, and injectable biostimulators. Special attention is given to emerging approaches such as microneedle delivery systems, with mention of exosome-based therapies. The review underscores the importance of personalized anti-aging regimens based on biological age, phototype, and lifestyle factors. As the field advances, integrating mechanistic insights with individualized treatment selection will be key to optimizing skin rejuvenation and preserving long-term dermal health. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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18 pages, 2749 KiB

Open AccessArticle

An Adhesive Peptide Derived from Mussel Protein Alleviates LL37-Induced Rosacea Through Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-Angiogenic Mechanisms

by Tae Yoon Kim, Jin Hyeop Kim, Yeon-Jun Lee, Min Ji Song, Ha Hui Park and Ji Hyung Chung

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 143; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040143 - 4 Jul 2025

Abstract

Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin condition characterized by persistent erythema and telangiectasia, often accompanied by skin barrier disruption and abnormal angiogenesis. Currently, peptide-based therapies for rosacea are limited, and existing drugs still present certain limitations and side effects. Peptides have the advantage [...] Read more.

Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin condition characterized by persistent erythema and telangiectasia, often accompanied by skin barrier disruption and abnormal angiogenesis. Currently, peptide-based therapies for rosacea are limited, and existing drugs still present certain limitations and side effects. Peptides have the advantage of being relatively safe and exhibiting high target specificity, which can reduce the risk of adverse effects. Considering these points, this study aimed to explore the adhesive peptide AdhPep3 (AYDPGYK) as a potential therapeutic candidate for rosacea. AdhPep3 was designed based on protein sequences with cell junction properties and has the potential to enhance skin barrier-related protein expression by improving cell–cell adhesion and increasing adhesion-related protein levels. In LL-37-stimulated HaCaT cells, AdhPep3 effectively alleviated skin inflammation and inhibited the Toll-like receptor–nuclear factor kappa B (TLR2–NFκB) signaling pathway. Additionally, in LL-37-stimulated human umbilical vein endothelial cells (HUVECs), it reduced cell migration and the expression of angiogenesis-related proteins. Since AdhPep3 demonstrated anti-inflammatory and anti-angiogenic effects at the in vitro level, it may serve as a potential therapeutic agent for rosacea. Moreover, by increasing the expression of skin barrier and tight junction-related proteins, AdhPep3 shows potential for development as a cosmetic ingredient to improve skin health. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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24 pages, 886 KiB

Open AccessReview

Cosmeceutical and Dermatological Potential of Olive Mill Wastewater: A Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Source of Natural Ingredients

by Adriana Albini, Paola Corradino, Danilo Morelli, Francesca Albini and Douglas Noonan

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 142; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040142 - 3 Jul 2025

Abstract

Olive oil and its derivatives, particularly polyphenol-rich extracts, are valued for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and regenerative properties. Olive mill wastewater (OMWW), a byproduct of olive oil production, traditionally seen as an environmental pollutant, has emerged as a promising source of high-value dermatological ingredients. [...] Read more.

Olive oil and its derivatives, particularly polyphenol-rich extracts, are valued for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and regenerative properties. Olive mill wastewater (OMWW), a byproduct of olive oil production, traditionally seen as an environmental pollutant, has emerged as a promising source of high-value dermatological ingredients. Key polyphenols such as hydroxytyrosol, oleuropein, and tyrosol exhibit potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and photoprotective effects. These compounds mitigate oxidative stress, prevent collagen degradation, modulate NF-κB and MAPK signaling, and promote cellular repair and regeneration. Skin health is increasingly recognized as crucial to overall well-being, driving interest in cosmeceuticals that combine cosmetic benefits with dermatological activity. This review examines the cosmeceutical and dermatological potential of OMWW, highlighting its incorporation into innovative topical formulations like oil-in-water nanoemulsions, liposomes, and microneedles that enhance skin penetration and bioavailability. Additionally, OMWW fractions have shown selective antiproliferative effects on melanoma cells, suggesting potential for skin cancer prevention. Valorization of OMWW through biorefinery processes aligns with circular-economy principles, converting agro-industrial waste into sustainable cosmeceutical ingredients. This approach not only meets consumer demand for natural, effective products, but also reduces the ecological footprint of olive oil production, offering a scalable, eco-friendly strategy for next-generation dermatological applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Useful from Useless: Development of Cosmetics from Agri-Food By-Products)

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22 pages, 1280 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Development and Optimization of a Quercetin-Loaded Chitosan Lactate Nanoparticle Hydrogel with Antioxidant and Antibacterial Properties for Topical Skin Applications

by Raghda Yazidi, Majdi Hammami, Hamza Ghadhoumi, Ameni Ben Abdennebi, Sawssen Selmi, Kamel Zayani, Karima Horchani-Naifer, Iness Bettaieb Rebey and Moufida Saidani Tounsi

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 141; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040141 - 3 Jul 2025

Abstract

Nanotechnology has revolutionized dermocosmetic innovation by improving the stability, bioavailability, and efficacy of active ingredients. In this study, we developed and optimized a novel xanthan gum-based hydrogel containing quercetin-loaded chitosan lactate nanoparticles for antioxidant and antimicrobial skincare applications. Chitosan was converted to its [...] Read more.

Nanotechnology has revolutionized dermocosmetic innovation by improving the stability, bioavailability, and efficacy of active ingredients. In this study, we developed and optimized a novel xanthan gum-based hydrogel containing quercetin-loaded chitosan lactate nanoparticles for antioxidant and antimicrobial skincare applications. Chitosan was converted to its lactate form to enhance water solubility and enable nanoparticle formation at physiological pH via ionic gelation with citric acid. The formulation was optimized using Box–Behnken response surface methodology to achieve minimal particle size and maximal zeta potential. The final gel was structured with xanthan gum as the gelling polymer, into which the optimized nanoparticles were incorporated to create a stable and bioactive hydrogel system. Encapsulation efficiency was measured separately to assess the effectiveness of drug loading. The optimized nanoparticles exhibited a mean diameter of 422.02 nm, a zeta potential of +29.49 mV, and a high quercetin encapsulation efficiency (76.9%), corresponding to the proportion of quercetin retained in the nanoparticle matrix relative to the total amount initially used in the formulation. Antioxidant assays (TAC, DPPH, and reducing power) confirmed superior radical-scavenging activity of the nanoformulation compared to the base hydrogel. Antibacterial tests showed strong inhibition against Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Staphylococcus aureus, with MIC values comparable to streptomycin. Accelerated stability studies demonstrated excellent physicochemical and microbiological stability over 60 days. This natural, bioactive, and eco-friendly formulation represents a promising platform for next-generation cosmeceuticals targeting oxidative stress and skin-related pathogens. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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26 pages, 857 KiB

Open AccessReview

Officinal Plants as New Frontiers of Cosmetic Ingredients

by Annabella Vitalone, Lucia D’Andrea, Antonella Di Sotto, Alessandra Caruso and Rita Parente

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 140; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040140 - 3 Jul 2025

Abstract

In recent years, cosmetic science has adopted a more integrative approach to skincare, in which sensory experience and psychophysical well-being are increasingly valued. In this context, plant-derived ingredients, particularly those from officinal species, are gaining attention for their multifunctional bioactivities. This review explores [...] Read more.

In recent years, cosmetic science has adopted a more integrative approach to skincare, in which sensory experience and psychophysical well-being are increasingly valued. In this context, plant-derived ingredients, particularly those from officinal species, are gaining attention for their multifunctional bioactivities. This review explores a curated selection of medicinal plants widely used or emerging in dermocosmetics, highlighting their phytochemical composition, mechanisms of action, and experimental support. A narrative literature review was conducted using databases such as PubMed and Scopus, targeting studies on topical cosmetic applications. Results show that many officinal plants, including Camellia sinensis, Panax ginseng, and Mentha piperita, offer antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, photoprotective, and anti-aging benefits. Less conventional species, such as Drosera ramentacea and Kigelia africana, demonstrated depigmenting and wound-healing potential. In particular, bioactive constituents like flavonoids, iridoids, saponins, and polyphenols act on key skin targets such as COX-2, MMPs, tyrosinase, and the Nrf2 pathway. These findings underscore the potential of botanical extracts to serve as effective, natural, and multifunctional agents in modern skincare. While only Mentha piperita is currently recognized as a traditional herbal medicinal product for dermatological use, this research supports the broader dermocosmetic integration of these species. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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14 pages, 818 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Safety Profile and Efficacy of Biosea^® Revive Serum for Hair Growth Through In Vitro Assessment and Clinical Evaluation

by Chi-Ju Wu, Chun-Yin Yang, Pamela Berilyn So, Hui-Yu Hu, Shang-Hsuan Yang, Hsiang-Ming Hsueh, Tzu-Hui Wu and Feng-Lin Yen

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 139; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040139 - 1 Jul 2025

Abstract

Excessive hair loss can negatively impact psychological well-being and personal appearance. Providing effective hair growth products containing natural ingredients to people with hair loss can solve this problem. This study investigates Biosea^® Revive serum (BRS), a novel hair care product containing biotinoyl [...] Read more.

Excessive hair loss can negatively impact psychological well-being and personal appearance. Providing effective hair growth products containing natural ingredients to people with hair loss can solve this problem. This study investigates Biosea^® Revive serum (BRS), a novel hair care product containing biotinoyl tripeptide-1 and Phyllanthus emblica fruit extract as the main ingredients, as a natural intervention for hair growth. Results from the in vitro study demonstrates that BRS not only increased human hair dermal papilla cell (HHDPC) cell proliferation, but also reduced reactive oxygen species generation and 5α-reductase expression when compared to the control group, with BRS showing similar effect to the positive control, minoxidil. In addition, a 90-day clinical trial with 40 participants (KMUHIRB-F(I)-20230125; approval date: 18 August 2023) was conducted to assess the effectiveness and safety of BRS. The results revealed that BRS can improve hair density and quality in both men and women participants, with a significant reduction in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) in women (p < 0.05). Moreover, there were no adverse effects on blood parameters or scalp irritation reported after BRS treatment. In conclusion, we suggest that BRS offers a safe and effective solution for improving hair follicle health and is suitable for long-term use. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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18 pages, 2664 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Engineering a Polyacrylamide/Polydopamine Adhesive Hydrogel Patch for Sustained Transdermal Vitamin E Delivery

by Yejin Kim, Juhyeon Kim, Dongmin Yu, Taeho Kim, Jonghyun Park, Juyeon Lee, Sohyeon Yu, Dongseong Seo, Byoungsoo Kim, Simseok A. Yuk, Daekyung Sung and Hyungjun Kim

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 138; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040138 - 1 Jul 2025

Abstract

A transdermal drug delivery system based on hydrogel patches was explored, leveraging their sustained release properties and biocompatibility. Despite these advantages, conventional hydrogels often lack proper adhesion to the skin, limiting their practical application. To address this issue, we designed a skin-adhesive hydrogel [...] Read more.

A transdermal drug delivery system based on hydrogel patches was explored, leveraging their sustained release properties and biocompatibility. Despite these advantages, conventional hydrogels often lack proper adhesion to the skin, limiting their practical application. To address this issue, we designed a skin-adhesive hydrogel using a polyacrylamide (PAM)/polydopamine (PDA) dual-network structure. The matrix combines the mechanical toughness of PAM with the strong adhesive properties of PDA, derived from mussel foot proteins, enabling firm tissue attachment and robust performance under physiological conditions. To demonstrate its applicability, the hydrogel was integrated with poly(lactic-co-glycolic acid) (PLGA) nanoparticles encapsulating the hydrophobic antioxidant vitamin E as a model compound. The resulting PAM/PDA@VitE hydrogel system exhibited improved swelling behavior, high water retention, and prolonged release of α-tocopherol. These results suggest that the PAM/PDA hydrogel platform is a versatile vehicle not only for vitamin E, but also for the transdermal delivery of various cosmetic and therapeutic agents. Full article

(This article belongs to the Collection Editorial Board Members' Collection Series: "Novel Delivery Systems for Dermocosmetic Applications")

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18 pages, 1525 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Importance of Cosmetics in Oncological Patients. Survey of Tolerance of Routine Cosmetic Care in Oncological Patients

by María-Elena Fernández-Martín, Jose V. Tarazona, Natalia Hernández-Cano and Ander Mayor Ibarguren

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 137; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040137 - 27 Jun 2025

Abstract

The expected cutaneous adverse effects (CAE) of oncology therapies can be disabling and even force the patient to discontinue treatment. The incorporation of cosmetics into skin care regimens (SCRs) as true therapeutic adjuvants can prevent, control, and avoid sequelae. However, cosmetics may also [...] Read more.

The expected cutaneous adverse effects (CAE) of oncology therapies can be disabling and even force the patient to discontinue treatment. The incorporation of cosmetics into skin care regimens (SCRs) as true therapeutic adjuvants can prevent, control, and avoid sequelae. However, cosmetics may also lead to adverse reactions in patients. The aim of our study was to assess the impact of the tolerability of cosmetics used in routine skin care on quality of life in this vulnerable population group through a survey. In addition, information was collected to improve the knowledge of the beneficial effects of cosmetics and the composition recommended. Hospital nurses guided the patients to fill in the surveys, which were done once. The main uses are related to daily hygiene care, photoprotection, and dermo-cosmetic treatment to prevent or at least reduce the skin’s adverse effects. More than 30% (36.36%) of patients perceived undesirable effects or discomfort with the use of cosmetics (27.27% in the facial area, 27.27% in the body and hands, and 22.73% in the scalp and hair). Intolerance was described for some soaps and creams used in the facial area. This study provides additional evidence on perceived tolerance supporting updates of clinical practice guidelines, highlights consolidated knowledge and evidence on the use of cosmetics, as well as new recommendations on the use and composition of cosmetics intended for oncological patients. There is a need for more knowledge about cosmetic ingredients and formulations, including ingredients of concern, such as endocrine disruptors. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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21 pages, 2393 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Digital Tools in Action: 3D Printing for Personalized Skincare in the Era of Beauty Tech

by Sara Bom, Pedro Contreiras Pinto, Helena Margarida Ribeiro and Joana Marto

Cosmetics 2025, 12(4), 136; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12040136 - 25 Jun 2025

Abstract

3D printing (3DP) enables the development of highly customizable skincare solutions, offering precise control over formulation, structure, and aesthetic properties. Therefore, this study explores the impact of patches’ microstructure on hydration efficacy using conventional and advanced chemical/morphological confocal techniques. Moreover, it advances to [...] Read more.

3D printing (3DP) enables the development of highly customizable skincare solutions, offering precise control over formulation, structure, and aesthetic properties. Therefore, this study explores the impact of patches’ microstructure on hydration efficacy using conventional and advanced chemical/morphological confocal techniques. Moreover, it advances to the personalization of under-eye 3D-printed skincare patches and assesses consumer acceptability through emotional sensing, providing a comparative analysis against a non-3D-printed market option. The results indicate that increasing the patches’ internal porosity enhances water retention in the stratum corneum (53.0 vs. 45.4% µm). Additionally, patches were personalized to address individual skin needs/conditions (design and bioactive composition) and consumer preferences (color and fragrance). The affective analysis indicated a high level of consumer acceptance for the 3D-printed option, as evidenced by the higher valence (14.5 vs. 1.1 action units) and arousal (4.2 vs. 2.7 peaks/minute) scores. These findings highlight the potential of 3DP for personalized skincare, demonstrating how structural modifications can modulate hydration. Furthermore, the biometric-preference digital approach employed offers unparalleled versatility, enabling rapid customization to meet the unique requirements of different skin types. By embracing this advancement, a new era of personalized skincare emerges, where cutting-edge science powers solutions for enhanced skin health and consumer satisfaction. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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