Cosmetics, Volume 11, Issue 5 (October 2024) – 32 articles

The Bee Cosmetic Surgery Scale (BCSS) is a novel clinical tool designed to assess the psychopathological, psychosocial, and decision-making factors involved in accepting cosmetic procedures. This prospective, multicenter study aimed to propose and validate the BCSS, which considers aesthetic aspects, personal pathological history, and psychopathological implications leading to the acceptance of invasive or non-invasive aesthetic interventions. The study included 281 participants aged 18–66 years, divided into three groups: non-invasive cosmetic surgery (NICS), invasive and non-invasive cosmetic surgery (INICS), and individuals who had not undergone cosmetic surgery (NCS). Participants were randomly selected from patients visiting plastic surgery services and various medical services in Oradea, Romania, between October 2022 and March 2024. The BCSS comprises 20 items with Likert-type responses, ranging from one to five. The Multidimensional Scale of Perceived Social Support (MSPSS) was used to measure perceived social support. The BCSS aims to elucidate the patient’s desire for aesthetic procedures, whether it stems from an impulsive act, warrants a longer decision-making period, or necessitates addressing psychological or psychiatric conditions before scheduling the procedure. The scale enables cosmetic surgeons to assess whether the patient has been adequately informed and understands the risks and complications associated with the cosmetic surgical procedure. Full article

The purpose of this research was to assess the effectiveness of PRP injections into facial skin and to identify which of the studied blood parameters can affect the effectiveness of the procedure. The research involved 50 women aged 20 to 52 years who received intradermal PRP injections into facial skin. A general examination, complete blood count, and d-dimer, estradiol, and insulin in the blood serum were measured before the procedure, and assessment of the skin’s condition using a facial skin analyzer, assessment of midface volume changes using the Midface Volume Deficit Scale, assessment of aesthetic improvement by the doctor and the patient (Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale, GAIS) before and 1 month after the procedure were conducted for all the subjects involved in the research. According to the GAIS, both from the doctor’s and the patients’ perspectives, the majority noted some improvement in the skin condition after the procedure; however, according to the skin analyzer data, there were no statistically significant changes. A total of 56% of the patients displayed improvement in the midface volume, and this was observed in patients with a lower blood platelet count (≤259 × 10⁹/L) and a higher level of estradiol (>99 pg/mL) before the procedure. No undesirable effects were detected after the procedure. Full article

Recent data suggest that dandruff might be associated with dysbiosis of the scalp microbiome. This mini review summarizes the microbiome changes seen with the dandruff condition, as well as different solutions for dandruff control and their effects on the scalp microbiome in relation to in vivo efficacy. Since zinc pyrithione has been banned from cosmetics in the EU, the medium-chain fatty acid ester propanediol caprylate is a new option, in addition to the remaining conventional ingredients: piroctone olamine, climbazole, and salicylic acid. The ester is rapidly cleaved by Malassezia hydrolases in the external milieu, thereby releasing active caprylic acid. In addition to its auto-regulatory effects on Malassezia, propanediol caprylate is also able to influence the bacterial microbiota towards a healthier scalp microbiome. In vivo data have shown an efficacy comparable to climbazole and piroctone olamine. In vivo additive and synergistic effects in different combinations allow reductions in the concentration of conventional agents. Surprisingly, a new effect of a lasting healthier scalp has been identified in connection with ester use, in contrast to the usual return of dandruff experienced upon the discontinuation of anti-dandruff shampoo with conventional actives. We also report on new data from an unpublished comparative study on two propanediol monoesters confirming the long-lasting effect. Full article

The current research is focused on the discovery and optimization of an effective cosmetic carrier of alpha-bisabolol as a first step in the development of a cosmetic product with cleansing and antimicrobial action for facial skin hygiene. A micellar solution of Poloxamer 407 was selected as a cosmetic base because of the good washing ability, easy application, and high tolerability of this polymeric surfactant. The solubilization capacity of a 5% micellar solution with respect to α-bisabolol was investigated by applying varying solubilization techniques and increasing concentrations of the oily active substance. The test samples were subjected to an accelerated physical stability test, viscosimetry, dynamic light scattering (DLS), electrophoretic light scattering (ELS), foamability test, and antimicrobial screening. Over the course of this research, the advantage of the film-hydration method over direct solubilization was demonstrated by the narrower size distribution and smaller hydrodynamic size of the micellar nano-carriers (ranging from 29.02 to 116.5 nm) and the respective higher physical stability of the dispersions. The optimized composition was found to be suitable for application on large skin areas in terms of viscosity in the temperature range from 20 °C to 40 °C (3.4–2.3 mPa.s). Preservation of the washing capacity of the micellar solution in the presence of solubilized α-bisabolol was established. The active composition demonstrated inhibitory activity against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli and fungicidal activity against Candida albicans. This study concludes that the optimal concentration of α-bisabolol to be solubilized in a 5% Poloxamer 407 micellar solution by the film-hydration technique is 1%, considering the desirable physical endurance and antimicrobial activity. Full article

A key functionality for cleansing wipes is their efficiency in removing dirt and microbial contamination from the skin to safe or non-detectable levels, traditionally determined using the gravimetric method, which has been reported to be prone to experimental errors. This study evaluates the efficiency of a water-based cleansing wipe, WaterWipes^® (WaterWipes, UC, Drogheda, Ireland), for removing synthetic faecal matter (Feclone^TM, SiliClone Creations LLC, Havertown, PA, United States) and Escherichia coli (NCTC 10538) from volunteers’ skin, the former using a dermal analytical device called the Antera 3D^TM camera (Miravex Ltd., Dublin, Ireland), and the latter using standard microbiological methods. Feclone^TM was applied to participants’ forearms and the Antera 3D^TM camera captured detailed images of the skin surface before and after wiping. The Antera 3D^TM camera approach was found to be effective in measuring cleaning efficiency, with the wipe removing all detectable traces of the Feclone^TM applied. The total pore area (mm²), pore count, and total pore volume (mm³) in test participants post-wiping were observed to be reduced on average by 39.05%, 34.39%, and 39.98%, respectively. The wipe removed 99.99% of E. coli (NCTC 10538) applied, as measured using the microbial plate count method. In conclusion, the Antera 3D^TM camera method was observed to be effective in evaluating removal of topically applied Feclone^TM. Full article

Galloyl–RGD is a novel compound that combines gallic acid with RGD peptides (arginine, glycine, and asparaginic acid) to overcome the problems associated with gallic acid, such as instability at high temperatures and low solubility. In this study, we investigated the effects and molecular mechanisms of action of galloyl–RGD on UVB-induced skin photoaging in human dermal fibroblasts-neonatal (HDF-n). Galloyl–RGD increased collagen synthesis by inhibiting UVB-induced MMP-1 via inhibiting extracellular signal-regulated kinase and Jun N-terminal kinase and their downstream mitogen-activated protein kinase signaling, which are known to be representative photoaging mechanisms. The results of this study will be helpful for understanding the anti-photoaging effect and mechanism of galloyl–RGD and its future applications in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. Full article

Skin grows old due to intrinsic factors, such as age and associated hormonal changes, and external factors, like solar radiation and chemical substances to which we are exposed. With age, skin shows thinning, laxity, pallor, increased dryness, and the appearance of wrinkles, attributed to a decrease in collagen and elastin produced by fibroblasts. Several theories explain skin aging, including the free radical formation, neuroendocrine, and mitochondrial decline theories. Based on a scientific understanding of skin behavior, different in vitro methods are used to evaluate the effects of new ingredients in cosmetics. Commonly used methods include anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, and anti-hyaluronidase activity alongside techniques utilizing skin cells or 3D models. Although these methods are recognized and widely used, they lack standardization. In this review, a literature search has been conducted to examine the characteristics and variations of these methods across the laboratories. A key issue identified in this review is that many papers provide insufficient detail regarding their protocols. Moreover, the number of studies using cells is less significant than the ones determining enzyme inhibition. Our findings revealed that, in many cases, there is limited information available, underscoring the urgent need to initiate a comprehensive standardization process for the methodologies used to demonstrate anti-aging activity. Full article

Forest wealth, combined with innovative cosmetic applications, allows for the use of non-timber forest products like copal resin, diversifying resource use, promoting sustainable practices, preserving ecosystems, and generating income. The aim of this study was to evaluate a facial cream and a body gel formulated with essential oil extracted from copal resin obtained from agroforestry systems to determine their quality and consumer acceptance. Copal resin was collected from a silvopastoral system in Izúcar de Matamoros, Puebla, Mexico. Protocols were developed to ensure quality, safety, and efficacy, adhering to Mexican official standards, and accelerated stability tests were conducted to determine shelf life. Microbiological and irritability tests were performed to assess safety. Hedonic tests along with a random forest model were employed to identify the most important characteristics for consumer acceptance. The results indicated that both products met quality parameters regarding color, aroma, viscosity, and pH, and exhibited a shelf life of two years. Both products were free from harmful microorganisms, making them suitable for human application. Hydration, aroma, spreadability, and irritability were the most crucial variables for achieving higher consumer acceptance. Cosmetics can be formulated with copal resin essential oil. Full article

Facial hyperpigmentation is a highly prevalent dermatological condition, characterized by dark spots on the skin resulting from excess melanin production. Hyperpigmentation significantly impacts patients’ quality of life and self-esteem. Current treatments often present disadvantages linked to poor product tolerability. A topical cosmetic approach combining three lightening active ingredients (tranexamic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C) offers a new option for treating dark spots on the skin. The present in-use test under dermatological control evaluated the clinical safety and efficacy of a cream and serum containing these three ingredients, formulated with hyaluronic acid for enhanced delivery, stability, and efficacy. A total of 22 Caucasian patients with facial hyperpigmentation, both male and female, aged between 45 and 67 years, applied the cream and serum for 8 weeks. Clinical assessments, colorimetric evaluations, standardized photography, and self-assessment questionnaires were used to measure outcomes. No serious adverse effects were recorded, and the incidence of local adverse effects was low, highlighting good tolerability of the investigated test items. In most participants, significant improvements in hyperpigmented areas were recorded. Clinical scoring by the dermatologist investigator indicated a statistically significant 13% reduction in color intensity and a 6% reduction in the size of dark spots after 8 weeks of treatment. Colorimetric evaluation showed a statistically significant 1% increase in luminosity (L* parameter) and an 8% improvement in the Individual Typological Angle (ITA°) in endpoint, indicating lighter skin spots. Subjective assessments reflected high user satisfaction, with 95% of participants noting improvements in skin hydration and luminosity, and 77% reporting a reduced appearance of dark spots. Overall, the present work supports the use of tranexamic acid, niacinamide, and vitamin C as an effective and well-tolerated combined topical management option for hyperpigmentation. This combination offers a viable alternative to classical whiteners for individuals seeking to reduce facial skin coloration imbalance and improve skin tone. Full article

Skin aging is a complex, multifaceted process influenced by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Understanding the molecular mechanisms underlying skin aging is crucial for developing effective anti-aging strategies. Dermal stem cells play a pivotal role in maintaining skin homeostasis, but their functionality is compromised with aging. This study investigated the impact of aging on dermal stem cells and explored the potential of natural extracts in modulating their biological characteristics. Using bulk RNA barcoding and sequencing (BRB-seq), we identified differentially expressed genes (DEGs) between young and aged dermal stem cells, revealing alterations in cellular processes, including cell proliferation, ECM synthesis, and RNA splicing. We also demonstrated that a natural extract, comprising callus cells and Alpine rose leaf extracts, influenced RNA splicing in aged dermal stem cells, leading to improved dermal structure and integrity in vitro. Our findings suggest that natural extracts may exert their effects through senolytic activity and the modulation of RNA splicing, a process crucial to gene expression and cellular function. This study underscores the potential of integrating high-throughput transcriptomics in understanding skin aging, presenting new avenues for the development of innovative, sustainable, and effective anti-aging strategies. Full article

The cosmetics industry is undergoing a shift towards sustainability and efficacy, driven by consumer demand for eco-friendly and safe products. This paper introduces SVX, a spider silk-inspired raw material intended to transform cosmetic formulations. Produced through fermentation, SVX is a biopolymer composed of self-assembled proteins characterized by a porous structure for delivering active ingredients safely to the skin. The study utilized in vitro and ex vivo methods to assess SVX’s ability to protect against oxidative stress, enhance skin hydration, and support ingredient delivery. Safety assays, including the HET-CAM, patch test, and HRIPT, demonstrated that SVX is non-irritating and safe for topical application. Additionally, FTIR analysis confirmed SVX’s capacity for sustained release of active ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid, over an 8 h period. Results showed that SVX significantly improved skin barrier protection and exhibited superior antioxidant properties compared to control formulations. Its biocompatibility, along with a vegan and biodegradable composition, aligns with the principles of sustainability, with over 60% biodegradability achieved within 10 days. Furthermore, SVX displayed antioxidant efficacy approximately 130 times greater than L-ascorbic acid, based on DPPH assay results. These findings suggest that SVX offers a versatile and sustainable solution for skincare formulations, combining environmental responsibility with benefits for skin health and performance. Full article

Objective: The aim of this study was to systematically review the safety and effectiveness of the injectable biostimulators dermal fillers calcium hydroxyapatite (CaHA) and polycaprolactone (PCL) in facial esthetic procedures. Materials and Methods: Comprehensive electronic searches were executed across six academic databases. The primary outcome focused on safety by examining studies that reported the incidence of adverse events (AEs). The secondary outcome gauged the satisfaction of the patients and injectors by validated esthetic scales. To evaluate biases, the Joanna Briggs Institute Checklist tools were employed. Results: We included a total of 79 studies. In the quantitative assessment of the CaHA, out of 5032 injected patients, 21.8% manifested early AEs, 0.85% experienced delayed reactions, and 0.27% had severe complications. Within the PCL group, consisting of 1119 patients, 83.3% exhibited early AEs, 5.6% had delayed reactions, and none had serious complications. Regarding esthetic satisfaction outcome, both products presented favorable results, but a limited number of studies assessed these data. In the studies evaluated qualitatively, a broad array of AEs were cataloged. Conclusions: The occurrence of serious AEs associated with CaHA and PCL fillers is relatively low. Both CaHA and PCL fillers exhibit favorable safety profiles, with most AEs being transient in nature. Full article

(1) Background: The demand for body-contouring procedures has surged, with lipolysis emerging as a common technique for excess fat removal. Laser-assisted lipolysis (LAL) has gained attention as a potential alternative to surgical fat removal (SFR), offering perceived advantages in safety and efficacy. However, the comparative benefits of LAL and SFR remain uncertain. (2) Objective: To conduct a review of the existing literature comparing the efficacy, safety, and patient satisfaction of LAL and SFR. (3) Methods: A comprehensive search of major electronic databases was conducted to identify studies comparing LAL and SFR for body-contouring procedures. Studies were included if they were published in English, involved human subjects, and reported outcomes for LAL and SFR. All studies were classified according to the Oxford Center for Evidence-Based Medicine evidence hierarchy (4) Results: LAL may not be a safer and more effective option than SFR. However, the evidence for these differences was limited by the quality of the studies and the heterogeneity of the results. (5) Conclusions: This review suggests that LAL may not be a safer and more effective option than SFR for body-contouring procedures because LAL is associated with higher risks of complications such as burns and scarring, whereas SFR offers a more established safety profile and consistent efficacy. Full article

This review aims to provide a detailed overview of the botanical, phytochemical, and dermatological properties of Juglans regia (J. regia). The entire tree contains a wealth of chemical compounds, including phenols, tannins, alkaloids, saponins, reducing sugars, and amino acids, which contribute to its significant nutritional and pharmacological value. Extracts and oils from all parts of J. regia have been studied for their effects on various skin conditions, demonstrating antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, UV-protective, and chemoprotective properties. Additionally, these substances have shown potential in promoting wound healing, anti-aging, skin hydration, anti-tyrosinase activity, and hair dyeing. These benefits have been evaluated in various in vitro and in vivo studies. The therapeutic potential of J. regia suggests that its components could be integrated into treatment protocols and skincare routines. However, to optimize effectiveness and safety, future research should focus on in vivo studies in human subjects to determine the ideal concentrations and formulations of J. regia active compounds for specific skin conditions. Full article

The present study aimed to analyze the antifungal, antioxidant, and irritant potential of citronella oil, both isolated and combined with caffeic acid phenethyl ester (CAPE), for topical oral candidiasis. The antioxidant potential was evaluated using two methods, the DPPH test and the reducing power test (FRAP), while the irritant potential of the solutions was assessed through the hen’s egg chorioallantoic membrane test (HET-CAM). The DPPH test (IC50) values for the CITRO III + CAPE III combination were 32 ± 9 mg/mL, and for isolated CAPE, 13 ± 3 mg/mL. The results from the FRAP method revealed a low iron-reducing power for the combination of 1.25 mg/mL of citronella and 0.0775 mg/mL of CAPE (CITRO III + CAPE III), showing no significant difference compared to the isolated solution of 0.15 mg/mL of CAPE. The antibacterial activity of CAPE and isolated citronella in vitro against microorganisms was evaluated using two methods: microdilution and biofilm assay. The results showed that the MIC and MFC values were 0.5 mg/mL for citronella at both tested times (24 h and 48 h). For CAPE, the MFC values were 0.031 mg/mL. For the biofilm assay, the isolated compounds and combinations at 1 min and 6 h showed significantly different results from the controls (p < 0.05). Furthermore, the HET-CAM results demonstrated the absence of irritability. Based on these premises, the antifungal and antioxidant actions, and absence of irritability were proven. Moreover, this work presents a natural antifungal of interest to the pharmaceutical industry. Full article

Economic and environmental issues translating into energy costs and pollution within the production environment are increasingly attracting attention. Industrial Energy Efficiency (IEE) is gaining ever-higher importance within production environments. Since cosmetic consumers and companies are becoming increasingly sensitive to sustainability, the cosmetic field is working to reduce the environmental and social impact along the whole supply chain. Furthermore, IEE actions in business processes can lead to several medium- and long-term economic and environmental benefits. This paper is the first work in the literature presenting a real-case application of energy analysis and modeling to achieve better energy performances in a cosmetics production process. Thus, in the body of knowledge, it contributes by providing a real case of good practice to be benchmarked for future IEE interventions in cosmetics manufacturing processes. The work has been conducted by analyzing the production process’s energy consumption and developing an energy model of a selected machine (i.e., a turbo-emulsifier). The analysis and modeling performed aimed at assessing the different operational phases of the machine and evaluating the different behaviors of the data. Finally, the results allowed us to propose possible improvements to be applied to the production process to achieve better energy performances. Full article

Permanent makeup (PMU) is a popular form of tattooing applied to the eyebrows, eyelids, and lips for corrective and aesthetic purposes. It also has medical applications, such as reconstructing the breast areola, mimicking hair follicles on the head, and covering scars and vitiligo. Unlike body tattoos, PMU often requires reapplication to maintain color density and shape, as the pigments fade over time. This fading is likely due to the characteristics of PMU colorants rather than the application methods or apparatuses. The aim of our study was to assess the application depth of PMU colorants and tattoo ink after procedures. PMU colorants typically contain larger pigment particles in their composition compared to the nanoparticles found in traditional tattoo inks. We applied both tattoo ink and PMU colorants on SKH-1 mice using a PMU apparatus and a tattoo apparatus. To clarify the semi-permanent nature of PMU compared to the more permanent body tattoos, skin biopsies were performed at various intervals throughout this study. The results showed that PMU and tattoo ink were placed at approximately the same depth but exhibited key differences in behavior. PMU with larger inorganic pigments fades over time, while tattoos with smaller, stable organic pigments ensure permanence. Full article

Introduction: This study was conducted to question the findings of a prior study published in Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (JDD) in September 2023, which reported that a topical firming and toning body lotion (FTB—SkinMedica^®, Allergan Aesthetics, an AbbVie Company, Irvine, CA, USA) upregulated several genes in a UV-irradiated 3D full-thickness human skin model, outperforming other products, including TransFORM Body Treatment with TriHex Technology^® (ATF—Alastin Skincare^®, a Galderma company, Fort Worth, TX, USA). Given the unique response reported for FTB, we conducted this study to assess the reproducibility of these results and explore gene expression at multiple time points, along with validating protein expression in an ex vivo model. Materials and Methods: Experiments were conducted using an ex vivo model with photodamaged skin from facelift patients, under an Institutional Review Board-approved study. Skin samples were processed, cultured in transwells with Skin Media, and treated daily with either TransFORM or FTB for 7 days. A control group was left untreated. Gene expression was assessed using RT-PCR on days 1 and 3 and using immunofluorescence after 3 and 7 days of treatment. Skin samples were fixed, paraffin-embedded, sectioned, and stained with an anti-tropoelastin antibody. Fluorescence detection and imaging were conducted to assess protein expression changes. Results: Gene expression data from our study and the initial study showed a few similarities but multiple discrepancies. As opposed to results previously reported at only the 24 h time point, our study was completed at multiple time points and showed a complete reversal of many of these results. For example, COL1A1 expression at 24 h was similar for FTB in both studies but differed for TransFORM, which showed higher levels at 24 h in our study. At day 3, COL1A1 expression decreased markedly for FTB and was sustained for TransFORM. Other genes, such as COL3A1, COL5, ELN, VEGFC, ATG7, ATG12, BECN1, POMP, PSMB5, and PSMB6, exhibited varying expression patterns between the two studies and across different time points. From a translational perspective, histological analysis showed that TransFORM enhanced elastin fiber presence in the dermal–epidermal junction (DEJ) more effectively than FTB at both days 3 and 7. FTB-treated samples maintained a gap in the DEJ, while TransFORM-treated samples exhibited increased cellular proliferation and DEJ undulation, indicative of a healthier regenerative response. Conclusion: This study highlights the problems of examining data and drawing conclusions using a single point of examination. In addition, when a study reports positive results for only one product among a range of eight competitive products, further questioning is essential to exclude the possibility of the experimental model favoring that product. The additional 3-day time point and further translational examination of histological changes paint a completely different picture to that reported in the prior publication. TransFORM outperformed FTB in most gene expressions and histological parameters when assessed over multiple time points in a physiologically relevant ex vivo model. Full article

Oxidative stress is a primary contributor to human skin aging, while antioxidants are known to mitigate skin damage related to aging processes. In this study, we investigated the possible action of trifluoromethyl phenethyl mesalazine (TFM), an antioxidizing agent, on skin aging processes, including skin wrinkles and pigmentation. Our data revealed that TFM exerted a strong free radical scavenging capability and notably inhibited melanin production. Moreover, TFM downregulated the UV-induced production of matrix metalloproteinase-1 and interleukin-6 in cultured human skin fibroblasts. Furthermore, in a clinical study with 24 women, TFM significantly reduced skin wrinkles and improved skin brightness compared to a placebo. These findings highlight the previously unrecognized effects of TFM on skin health by mitigating skin aging processes associated with oxidative damage. Full article

The burgeoning interest in natural components in personal care products has led to significant research and development of ingredients such as plant extracts, antioxidants, peptides, and probiotics. These components have been recognized for their potential to enhance skin health through various mechanisms, addressing consumer demand for products that are both effective and benign. Plant extracts, known for their rich composition of bioactive compounds, offer a myriad of benefits including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, making them invaluable in skin care formulations. Antioxidants, derived from both plants and other natural sources, play a pivotal role in protecting the skin from oxidative damage, thereby preventing premature aging and promoting skin vitality. Bioactive peptides have garnered attention owing to their multifunctional activities that include promoting collagen synthesis, inhibiting enzymes responsible for skin degradation, and reducing inflammation, thereby contributing to skin regeneration and anti-aging. Probiotics have expanded their utility beyond gut health to skin care, where they help in maintaining skin microbiome balance, thus enhancing skin barrier function and potentially mitigating various skin disorders. The purpose of this review is to explore the individual roles of plant extracts, antioxidants, peptides, and probiotics in personal care products, while emphasizing their synergistic effects when combined. By integrating these natural components, this paper aims to highlight the potential for developing innovative skincare formulations that not only address specific skin concerns but also contribute to overall skin health, aligning with the increasing consumer preference for natural and holistic skincare solutions. Full article

The demand for naturally derived cosmetic ingredients is rising as consumers increasingly prioritize green and environmentally friendly products. Naturally derived ingredients, such as plant extracts rich in polyphenols like flavonoids and tannins, are often perceived as more sustainable and beneficial for skincare. Epilobium angustifolium (fireweed) is a circumpolar plant with traditional uses in Northern and Eastern Europe known for its skincare benefits. This review explores the chemical composition, traditional uses, and potential skincare benefits of E. angustifolium, focusing on its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Literature surveys, ethnopharmacological research, and database searches were conducted to investigate the properties of E. angustifolium. The plant contains various compounds such as flavonoids, phenolic acids, tannins, steroids, and triterpenes, each with potential skincare benefits. Pharmacological reports suggest that E. angustifolium exhibits antioxidant and antibacterial properties, making it a valuable ingredient in skincare products. The availability of E. angustifolium in the market as a raw material for cosmetics offers opportunities for formulators to create innovative products with skin-conditioning and anti-inflammatory properties. Understanding the chemical composition and bioactivity of E. angustifolium can guide the development of effective and sustainable skincare formulations. Full article

Chios mastic gum (CMG), the resin of Pistacia lentiscus var. Chia, is a product with great ethnopharmacological and economic significance. This study attempts to investigate, for the first time, the activity of CMG, its fractions and isolated compounds against specific enzymes, which play pivotal roles in the degradation of proteins contained in skin connective tissue. Initially, crude CMG was subjected to extraction, fractionation and isolation through different chromatographic techniques to obtain the acidic and neutral fraction of terpenes. Additionally, the characteristic and major active triterpene acids of CMG, masticadienonic and isomasticadienonic acids (MNA, IMNA) were isolated in pure form. All samples were analysed by means of High-Performance Thin-Layer Chromatography (HPTLC) with four distinct development systems to obtain their constituents’ profile. Finally, samples were tested for their ability to inhibit the elastase and collagenase enzymes. According to our findings, for collagenase, a mixture of MNA and IMNA demonstrated the most potent activity with an IC₅₀ value of 31.07 μg/mL, while for elastase CMG’s acidic fraction provided the most promising results with an IC₅₀ value of 17.30 μg/mL. Overall, these results attempt to fill the gap in scientific knowledge about the use of CMG and its constituents in skincare and cosmetic products. Full article

Recent advancements in aesthetic medicine offer innovative cosmetic solutions to enhance patient skin quality and appearance. Advanced treatment options enable practitioners to effectively address skin aging signs, pigmentation imbalance, and loss of elasticity in ambulatory and home-based care regimens. Exosomes (nanoscale cell-derived vesicles) transport a variety of biomolecules and are pivotal in physiological intercellular communication. Importantly, exosomes have recently emerged as key endogenous players in tissular regeneration. More broadly (from an active ingredient purity standpoint), exosomes, stem cell secretomes, and cell culture-conditioned media have been clinically proven to exert multifaceted beneficial topical effects (anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-aging, skin rejuvenation). Therefore, human, animal, and plant-derived exosomes or other refined sub-cellular biological fractions are gaining substantial interest within the aesthetic and cosmetic industries. Notably, such approaches are thought to be among the most promising novel contenders for advanced, biologically inspired skin prejuvenation and rejuvenation care. The present narrative review summarizes the latest clinically oriented research on exosomes and cell culture-conditioned media, highlighting their mechanisms of action in various topical applications. Furthermore, it explores the innovation landscape and currently commercially available products on the global cosmetic market and discusses the potential future applications of advanced, biologically inspired ingredients in the medical aesthetic industry. Full article

Plant oils are currently not only an essential element of the healthy eating pyramid, but also a valuable cosmetic material, which, in line with the eco-friendly trends of recent years, is effectively replacing petroleum-derived fatty ingredients. The fatty acids, phenolic compounds, pigments, and vitamins (e.g., A and E) present in plant oils contribute to their health-promoting properties, including antioxidant activity. This study assessed the contents of carotenoids and chlorophylls, as well as the antioxidant properties of 10 selected plant oils. Fenugreek seed oil was shown to have the highest total content of carotenoids, and the most β-carotene. Chokeberry and rosehip oils also contained large amounts of provitamin A, in comparison to the other oils tested. Lycopene was the dominant compound in black currant and rosehip seed oils. Among chlorophyll pigments, elderberry oil had the highest content of chlorophyll a, while black currant oil had large amounts of both chlorophyll a and chlorophyll b. The antioxidant properties of the cold pressed oils obtained from selected seeds and fruit stones, assessed by electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy as the ability to interact with the DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) free radical, can be ranked as follows: pomegranate > fenugreek > poppy > black currant > chokeberry > rosehip > perilla > elderberry > carrot > fig. The results of this study showed that these plant oils are valuable natural materials with antioxidant properties, which can be an important complement to synthetic antioxidants due to their additional skin care properties. Full article

Nanotechnology has applications in a variety of scientific specialties, encompassing health, technological devices, and now cosmetics under the generic term of nanocosmetics. Due to the improved particle qualities, such as color, transparency, and solubility, acquired at the nanoscale, nanotechnology significantly affects the cosmetic industry. Skin penetration mechanism depends heavily on the nanoparticles’ physicochemical properties, including stiffness, hydrophobicity, size, and charge. An expanding industry that requires more research and development has been created by nanoparticle production technologies. Liposomes, solid lipid nanoparticles, cubosomes, dendrimers, and other nanomaterials offer advanced skincare properties. Cosmetics made using nanotechnology have the advantages of product diversity, increased bioavailability of active compounds, and enhanced pleasing appearance of cosmetics with long-lasting benefits. The various cosmetic brands’ utilization of various types of nanomaterials in their products is highlighted in this review. Full article

The cosmetics industry has experienced rapid growth, driven by consumer demand for products in line with modern lifestyles and technological advances, with greater awareness of the impacts on health and the ecosystem. This review explores the potential use of antibacterial compounds derived from food waste as sustainable alternatives to synthetic preservatives in cosmetic products. Waste obtained from food, including fruit peels, seeds, and plant remnants, is rich in natural bioactives, including polyphenolic compounds and essential oils that exhibit antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and soothing features. The integration of these natural ingredients not only improves the shelf-life and safety of cosmetics but also promotes environmentally friendly practices. We discuss the sources and antimicrobial efficacy of these compounds, along with recent technological innovations. This sustainable approach responds to consumer preferences for natural ingredients, reduces food waste, and supports environmental sustainability, ultimately increasing the value and attractiveness of cosmetic products. Full article

The increasing demand for effective hair care products has highlighted the necessity for rigorous claims substantiation methods, particularly for products that target specific hair types. This is essential because the effectiveness of a product can vary significantly based on the hair’s condition and characteristics. A well-defined bleaching protocol is crucial for creating a standardized method to assess product efficacy, especially for products designed to repair damaged hair. The objective of this study was to create a practical bleaching protocol that mimics real-world consumer experiences, ensuring that hair samples exhibit sufficient damage for testing. This approach allows for a reliable assessment of how well various products can repair hair. The protocol serves as a framework for evaluating hair properties and the specific effects of each product on hair structure. Color, brightness, lightness, morphology, and topography were primarily used to understand the big differences in the hair fiber when treated with two repair benchmark products, K18^® and Olaplex^®, in relation to the Bleached hair. The devised bleaching protocol proved to be a fitting framework for assessing the properties of hair and the unique characteristics of each tested product within the hair fiber. This protocol offers valuable insights and tools for substantiating consumer claims, with morphological and mechanical methods serving as indispensable tools for recognizing and validating claims related to hair. The addition of K18^® and Olaplex^® demonstrated an increase in hair brightness (Y) and lightness (L* and a*) in relation to the Bleached samples, which were considered relevant characteristics for consumers. Olaplex^®’s water-based nature creates a visible inner sheet, effectively filling empty spaces and improving the disulfide linkage network. This enhancement was corroborated by the increased number of disulfide bonds and evident changes in the FTIR profile. In contrast, K18^®, owing to the lipophilic nature of its constituents, resulted in the formation of an external layer above the fiber. The composition of each of the products had a discrete impact on the fiber distribution, which was an outcome relevant to the determination of spreadability by consumers. Full article

Known for its stimulating effects on the nervous and cardiovascular systems, caffeine has proven remarkable versatile properties. It can be used in a wide range of different products, from anti-aging cosmetics to the pharmaceutical treatment of hair loss. Caffeine is known for its antioxidant properties and is commonly found in moisturising creams recommended as anti-aging or anti-cellulite and also for the treatment of different skin disorders, including androgenic alopecia. This bioactive is also described to be able to enhance the sunscreen scattering effect of well-known ultraviolet (UV) blockers. One of the major challenges remains its penetration capacity into deeper skin layers, which may be achieved by the use of nanosized delivery systems, yet without the risk of transdermal delivery. In this review, we discuss the nutraceutical value of caffeine in cosmetic products, so-called nutricosmetics, which grants this bioactive several advantages in several formulations, in comparison to other potential bioactives of nutricosmetic value. Furthermore, the disclosed effects of bioactives commonly found in coffee, tea, and their by-products are reviewed and discussed. The discussion concludes by highlighting the significant benefits of caffeine in the treatment of skin disorders and its potential to enhance and promote skin health. Full article

Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is the most common form of hair loss, significantly affecting both men and women worldwide. Characterized by progressive hair thinning and loss, AGA is primarily mediated by dihydrotestosterone (DHT). Recent research has identified numerous single-nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs) associated with AGA, particularly in genes involved in androgen metabolism, prostaglandin pathways, and vasodilation. These genetic markers offer insights into AGA pathophysiology and potential therapeutic targets. Pharmacogenetics, the study of how genetic variations influence drug response, holds promise for personalized AGA treatment. Identifying SNPs that affect the efficacy of treatments like minoxidil and finasteride enables the development of tailored therapeutic strategies. For instance, genetic variants in the SRD5A2 gene, which affects DHT metabolism, can predict responsiveness to 5-alpha-reductase inhibitors. Beyond pharmacogenetics, RNA interference (RNAi) technologies, e.g., small interfering RNAs (siRNAs), present new therapeutic avenues. Studies have shown the efficacy of RNAi-based treatments in targeting androgen receptors, promoting hair growth in AGA models. Integrating genetic and pharmacogenetic research into clinical practice can transform AGA management, enhancing treatment efficacy and patient outcomes. In conclusion, genetic and pharmacogenetic insights are crucial for developing personalized treatments for AGA, while emerging RNAi technologies offer promising new interventions. These advancements represent significant steps toward more effective and individualized AGA therapies. Full article

Dermatomyositis is a rare autoimmune disease characterized by muscle weakness and skin rashes. Management typically involves high-dose cortisone treatment, which raises concerns about the feasibility and safety of aesthetic surgeries for affected individuals. This case report presents a successful outcome of an aesthetic surgery conducted on a dermatomyositis patient undergoing high-dose cortisone therapy. The patient, a 39-year-old female with a history of juvenile dermatomyositis, expressed a desire for aesthetic improvement, first in the periocular area and then in terms of the appearance of her breasts. Despite the challenges posed by the underlying condition and ongoing corticosteroid treatment, the patient underwent elective aesthetic surgeries with meticulous perioperative care and close collaboration between the surgical, anesthetic, and rheumatology teams. The successful outcome of the procedures enhanced the patient’s self-esteem and quality of life. This case underscores the importance of individualized treatment planning, interdisciplinary collaboration, and careful perioperative management for achieving favorable aesthetic outcomes for patients with dermatomyositis undergoing corticosteroid therapy for more than 20 years. Further research and awareness are warranted to guide the safe performance of aesthetic surgeries on this unique patient population. Full article