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Keywords = coastal erosion monitoring

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21 pages, 20274 KB  
Article
Storm-Driven Geomorphological Changes on a Mediterranean Beach: High-Resolution UAV Monitoring and Advanced GIS Analysis
by Marco Luppichini
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2025, 13(8), 1568; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13081568 - 15 Aug 2025
Viewed by 286
Abstract
Coastal erosion is a growing concern in the Mediterranean region, where the combined effects of anthropogenic pressure, reduced fluvial sediment supply, and climate change-driven sea level rise and extreme storm events threaten the stability of sandy shorelines. This study examines the geomorphological impacts [...] Read more.
Coastal erosion is a growing concern in the Mediterranean region, where the combined effects of anthropogenic pressure, reduced fluvial sediment supply, and climate change-driven sea level rise and extreme storm events threaten the stability of sandy shorelines. This study examines the geomorphological impacts of the exceptional storm surge of 3 November 2023, associated with Storm Ciaran, which affected a vulnerable coastal segment north of the Morto Nuovo River in northern Tuscany (Italy). Using UAV-based photogrammetric surveys and high-resolution morphological analysis, we quantified shoreline retreat, dune toe regression, beach slope changes, and sediment volume loss. The storm induced an average shoreline retreat of over 5 m, with local peaks reaching 30 m, and a dune toe setback of up to 7 m. A net sediment budget deficit of approximately 1800 m3 was recorded, over 50% of the total volume added during soft nourishment interventions performed in the previous decade. Our findings highlight how a single high-energy event can match or exceed the annual average erosion rate, emphasizing the limitations of traditional shoreline-based monitoring and hard defense structures. This study highlights the importance of frequent, high-resolution monitoring focused on individual storm events, which is crucial to better understand their specific geomorphological impacts. Such detailed analyses help clarify whether long-term erosion trends are primarily driven by the cumulative effect of high-energy events. This knowledge is essential for identifying the most effective coastal protection strategies and for improving the design of defense structures. This approach is particularly relevant in the context of climate change, which is expected to increase the frequency and intensity of extreme events, making it imperative to base future planning on accurate, event-driven data. Full article
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25 pages, 5880 KB  
Article
Simulating the Coastal Protection Performance of Breakwaters in the Mekong Delta: Insights from the Western Coast of Ca Mau Province, Vietnam
by Dinh Van Duy, Tran Van Ty, Lam Tan Phat, Huynh Vuong Thu Minh, Nguyen Dinh Giang Nam, Nigel K. Downes, Ram Avtar and Hitoshi Tanaka
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2025, 13(8), 1559; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13081559 - 14 Aug 2025
Viewed by 531
Abstract
The Vietnamese Mekong Delta (VMD) is experiencing accelerated coastal erosion, driven by upstream sediment trapping, sea-level rise, and local anthropogenic pressures. This study evaluates the effectiveness of pilot breakwater structures in mitigating erosion and supporting mangrove regeneration along the western coast of Ca [...] Read more.
The Vietnamese Mekong Delta (VMD) is experiencing accelerated coastal erosion, driven by upstream sediment trapping, sea-level rise, and local anthropogenic pressures. This study evaluates the effectiveness of pilot breakwater structures in mitigating erosion and supporting mangrove regeneration along the western coast of Ca Mau Province—one of the delta’s most vulnerable shorelines. An integrated methodology combining field-based wave monitoring, remote sensing analysis of shoreline and mangrove changes (2000–2024), and high-resolution Flow-3D hydrodynamic modeling was employed to assess the performance of four breakwater typologies: semi-circular, pile-rock, Busadco, and floating structures. The results show that semi-circular breakwaters achieved the highest wave attenuation, reducing maximum wave height (Hmax) by up to 76%, followed by pile-rock (69%), Busadco (66%), and floating structures (50%). Sediment accretion and mangrove stabilization were most consistent around the semi-circular and pile-rock types. Notably, mangrove loss slowed significantly after breakwater installation, with the annual deforestation rate dropping from 7.67 ha/year (2000–2021) to 1.1 ha/year (2021–2024). Simulations further revealed that mangrove width strongly influences wave dissipation, with belts under 5 m offering minimal protection. The findings highlight the potential of hybrid coastal protection strategies that combine engineered structures with ecological buffers. Modular solutions such as floating breakwaters offer flexibility to adapt with evolving shoreline dynamics. These findings inform scalable coastal protection strategies under sediment-deficit conditions. This study contributes to Vietnam’s Coastal Development Master Plan and broader resilience efforts under Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) 13 and 14, providing evidence to inform the design and scaling of adaptive, nature-based infrastructure in sediment-challenged deltaic environments. Full article
(This article belongs to the Section Coastal Engineering)
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22 pages, 2637 KB  
Article
A Study on the Coastline Extraction and Coastal Change Analysis Using Sentinel-2 Imagery in Funafuti, Tuvalu
by Sree Juwel Kumar Chowdhury and Chan-Su Yang
Remote Sens. 2025, 17(16), 2794; https://doi.org/10.3390/rs17162794 - 12 Aug 2025
Viewed by 400
Abstract
Temporal alterations in coastlines depict the significant changes in coastal areas, driven by both natural processes and human activities. For island nations, monitoring of the coastline is essential due to their vulnerability to such impacts. In this study, Funafuti Atoll, an archipelago of [...] Read more.
Temporal alterations in coastlines depict the significant changes in coastal areas, driven by both natural processes and human activities. For island nations, monitoring of the coastline is essential due to their vulnerability to such impacts. In this study, Funafuti Atoll, an archipelago of small and scattered islands around the capital of Tuvalu, is selected as the study region, and the aim is to extract coastlines of different islands and investigate coastal area changes between 2019 and 2023 using Sentinel-2 imagery. A simple linear iterative clustering-based superpixel segmentation and adaptive thresholding approach is employed for coastline extraction. Initially, superpixel segmentation is conducted to cluster 3-band image pixels into coherent regions, excluding the sea area. Subsequently, the normalized difference vegetation index (NDVI) is calculated, and the superpixels are used to obtain corresponding NDVI regions, on which adaptive Gaussian thresholding is applied to extract coastlines. Finally, the areas enclosed by the extracted coastline boundaries are utilized for change analysis. The results indicate that islands along the western rim of Funafuti exhibited significant alteration (an average decrease of −14.48%), whereas those along the eastern rim remained relatively stable due to the presence of coral rubble ridges and steep slopes. The change analysis revealed that from 2019 to 2020, approximately 15.1 hectares (ha) were eroded, resulting in a net area change rate of −4.14%. Between 2020 and 2021, erosion increased to 20.2 ha, yielding a net change of −7.75%. From 2021 to 2022, 13.2 ha were eroded, corresponding to a −1.74% change. From 2022 to 2023, a net gain of 10.3 ha occurred (+0.25%), primarily due to land reclamation along the lagoon-facing coast of Fongafale Island. Overall, all islands showed a decreasing area trend between 2019 and 2023, with an average net change of −12.97%. The coastal changes occurred along the sand-dominated coast with gentle slopes, possibly driven by the impact of tropical cyclones, prolonged swells, and coastal flooding, which act as the primary driving forces for the study region. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Application of Remote Sensing in Coastline Monitoring)
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11 pages, 2199 KB  
Proceeding Paper
Analysis of Multi-Decadal Shoreline Changes at Topocalma Beach (O’Higgins Region, Chile) Using Satellite Imagery
by Waldo Pérez-Martínez, Idania Briceño de Urbaneja, Joaquín Valenzuela-Jara and Isidora Díaz-Quijada
Eng. Proc. 2025, 94(1), 16; https://doi.org/10.3390/engproc2025094016 - 6 Aug 2025
Viewed by 333
Abstract
This study presents a 39-year spatiotemporal analysis of shoreline variability at Topocalma Beach (Chile) using satellite-derived data collected between 1985 and 2024. A total of 350 satellite images were processed with CoastSat and DSAS v6.0 to quantify erosional and accretional trends across distinct [...] Read more.
This study presents a 39-year spatiotemporal analysis of shoreline variability at Topocalma Beach (Chile) using satellite-derived data collected between 1985 and 2024. A total of 350 satellite images were processed with CoastSat and DSAS v6.0 to quantify erosional and accretional trends across distinct beach sectors. The results show persistent erosion in the proximal zone near the Topocalma wetland and localized accretion in the distal (southern) segment. These changes are closely associated with the 2010 Maule earthquake and tsunami, strong ENSO phases, and an increase in storm surge activity since 2015. The spatiotemporal beach width model reveals distinct phases of retreat and short-term post-seismic stabilization, followed by a shift to sustained erosion. Overall, this study underscores the limited natural recovery capacity of the beach and highlights the utility of satellite-based monitoring tools for coastal resilience planning in data-limited regions. Full article
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17 pages, 12127 KB  
Article
Shoreline Response to Hurricane Otis and Flooding Impact from Hurricane John in Acapulco, Mexico
by Luis Valderrama-Landeros, Iliana Pérez-Espinosa, Edgar Villeda-Chávez, Rafael Alarcón-Medina and Francisco Flores-de-Santiago
Coasts 2025, 5(3), 28; https://doi.org/10.3390/coasts5030028 - 4 Aug 2025
Viewed by 1781
Abstract
The city of Acapulco was impacted by two near-consecutive hurricanes. On 25 October 2023, Hurricane Otis made landfall, reaching the highest Category 5 storm on the Saffir–Simpson scale, causing extensive coastal destruction due to extreme winds and waves. Nearly one year later (23 [...] Read more.
The city of Acapulco was impacted by two near-consecutive hurricanes. On 25 October 2023, Hurricane Otis made landfall, reaching the highest Category 5 storm on the Saffir–Simpson scale, causing extensive coastal destruction due to extreme winds and waves. Nearly one year later (23 September 2024), Hurricane John—a Category 2 storm—caused severe flooding despite its lower intensity, primarily due to its unusual trajectory and prolonged rainfall. Digital shoreline analysis of PlanetScope images (captured one month before and after Hurricane Otis) revealed that the southern coast of Acapulco, specifically Zona Diamante—where the major seafront hotels are located—experienced substantial shoreline erosion (94 ha) and damage. In the northwestern section of the study area, the Coyuca Bar experienced the most dramatic geomorphological change in surface area. This was primarily due to the complete disappearance of the bar on October 26, which resulted in a shoreline retreat of 85 m immediately after the passage of Hurricane Otis. Sentinel-1 Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) showed that Hurricane John inundated 2385 ha, four times greater than Hurricane Otis’s flooding (567 ha). The retrofitted QGIS methodology demonstrated high reliability when compared to limited in situ local reports. Given the increased frequency of intense hurricanes, these methods and findings will be relevant in other coastal areas for monitoring and managing local communities affected by severe climate events. Full article
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8 pages, 2843 KB  
Proceeding Paper
Coastal Erosion in Tsunami and Storm Surges-Exposed Areas in Licantén, Maule, Chile: Case Study Using Remote Sensing and In-Situ Data
by Joaquín Valenzuela-Jara, Idania Briceño de Urbaneja, Waldo Pérez-Martínez and Isidora Díaz-Quijada
Eng. Proc. 2025, 94(1), 10; https://doi.org/10.3390/engproc2025094010 - 24 Jul 2025
Viewed by 560
Abstract
This study examines urban expansion, coastal erosion, and extreme wave events in Licantén, Maule Region, following the 2010 earthquake and tsunami. Using multi-source data—Landsat and Sentinel-2 imagery, ERA5 reanalysis, high-resolution Maxar images, UAV surveys, and the CoastSat algorithm—we detected significant urban growth in [...] Read more.
This study examines urban expansion, coastal erosion, and extreme wave events in Licantén, Maule Region, following the 2010 earthquake and tsunami. Using multi-source data—Landsat and Sentinel-2 imagery, ERA5 reanalysis, high-resolution Maxar images, UAV surveys, and the CoastSat algorithm—we detected significant urban growth in tsunami-prone areas: Iloca (36.88%), La Pesca (33.34%), and Pichibudi (20.78%). A 39-year shoreline reconstruction (1985–2024) revealed notable changes in erosion rates and shoreline dynamics using DSAS v6.0, influenced by tides, storm surges, and wave action modeled in R to quantify storm surge events over time. Results underscore the lack of urban planning in hazard-exposed areas and the urgent need for resilient coastal management under climate change. Full article
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32 pages, 4453 KB  
Article
Integration of Earth Observation and Field-Based Monitoring for Morphodynamic Characterisation of Tropical Beach Ecosystems
by James Murphy, Jonathan E. Higham, Andrew J. Plater, Kasey E. Clark and Rachel Collin
Environments 2025, 12(6), 205; https://doi.org/10.3390/environments12060205 - 16 Jun 2025
Viewed by 1317
Abstract
Coastal erosion poses a significant threat to small tropical island regions, where coastal tourism and infrastructure play vital economic roles. However, the processes affecting tropical beaches, particularly in Central America, remain underexplored due to a lack of data on waves and atmospheric conditions. [...] Read more.
Coastal erosion poses a significant threat to small tropical island regions, where coastal tourism and infrastructure play vital economic roles. However, the processes affecting tropical beaches, particularly in Central America, remain underexplored due to a lack of data on waves and atmospheric conditions. We propose a novel approach that utilises low-cost smartphone and satellite imagery to characterise beach ecosystems, where typically expensive and technologically intensive monitoring strategies are impractical and background data are scarce. As a test of its performance under real conditions, we apply this approach to four contrasting beaches in the low-lying islands of the Bocas del Toro Archipelago, Panama. We employ Earth Observation data and field-based monitoring to enhance understanding of beach erosion. Optical flow tracking velocimetry (OFTV) is applied to smartphone camera footage to provide a quantitative metric of wave characteristics during the high wave energy season. These data are combined with satellite-derived shoreline change data and additional field data on beach profiles and grain size. The results reveal distinct patterns of accretion and erosion across the study sites determined by wave climate, beach morphology, and grain size. Accreting beaches are generally characterised by longer wave periods, more consistent wave velocities, and finer, positively skewed sediments indicative of swell-dominated conditions and dissipative beach profiles. Conversely, more erosive sites are associated with shorter wave periods, more variable wave velocities, coarser and better-sorted sediments, and a shorter, steeper beach profile. Seasonal erosion during the high-energy wave season (January–April) and subsequent recovery were observed at most sites. This work demonstrates how foundational data for evidence-based coastal management can be generated in remote locations that lack essential baseline data. Full article
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14 pages, 1728 KB  
Article
Key Technologies for Constructing Ecological Corridors and Resilience Protection and Disaster Reduction in Nearshore Waters
by Huihuang Qin and Yong Ye
Sustainability 2025, 17(12), 5234; https://doi.org/10.3390/su17125234 - 6 Jun 2025
Viewed by 541
Abstract
The increase of population and economic activities has brought a series of problems to coastal areas, such as ecosystem pollution, overdevelopment, and climate change. The frequent occurrence of natural disasters is threatening the ecosystem of coastal areas, but also seriously affecting coastal populations. [...] Read more.
The increase of population and economic activities has brought a series of problems to coastal areas, such as ecosystem pollution, overdevelopment, and climate change. The frequent occurrence of natural disasters is threatening the ecosystem of coastal areas, but also seriously affecting coastal populations. Under these circumstances, the construction of coastal ecological corridors, integrated with resilience protection and disaster reduction systems, has emerged as a critical strategy for enhancing the stability of ecosystems. This study combines big data analysis technology, remote sensing technology, and geographic information system (GIS) to establish a real-time dynamic monitoring for ecological corridors. The experimental results show that the average flow velocity in the ecological corridor area significantly slows down after a rainstorm compared to the control area. After the construction of the ecological corridor, the soil erosion rates decreased significantly, while air and water quality showed significant improvements. These findings show that ecological corridors improve the quality and protection efficiency of the ecological environment in coastal areas. Full article
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34 pages, 6121 KB  
Article
Acute Impacts of Hurricane Ian on Benthic Habitats, Water Quality, and Microbial Community Composition on the Southwest Florida Shelf
by Matthew Cole Tillman, Robert Marlin Smith, Trevor R. Tubbs, Adam B. Catasus, Hidetoshi Urakawa, Puspa L. Adhikari and James G. Douglass
Coasts 2025, 5(2), 16; https://doi.org/10.3390/coasts5020016 - 22 May 2025
Viewed by 2282
Abstract
Tropical cyclones can severely disturb shallow, continental shelf ecosystems, affecting habitat structure, diversity, and ecosystem services. This study examines the impacts of Hurricane Ian on the Southwest Florida Shelf by assessing water quality, substrate type, and epibenthic and microbial community characteristics at eight [...] Read more.
Tropical cyclones can severely disturb shallow, continental shelf ecosystems, affecting habitat structure, diversity, and ecosystem services. This study examines the impacts of Hurricane Ian on the Southwest Florida Shelf by assessing water quality, substrate type, and epibenthic and microbial community characteristics at eight sites (3 to 20 m in depth) before and after Ian’s passage in 2022. Hurricane Ian drastically changed substrate type and biotic cover, scouring away epibenthos and/or burying hard substrates in mud and sand, especially at mid depth (10 m) sites (92–98% loss). Following Hurricane Ian, the greatest losses were observed in fleshy macroalgae (58%), calcareous green algae (100%), seagrass (100%), sessile invertebrates (77%), and stony coral communities (71%), while soft coral (17%) and sponge communities (45%) were more resistant. After Ian, turbidity, chromophoric dissolved organic matter, and dissolved inorganic nitrogen and phosphorus increased at most sites, while total nitrogen, total phosphorus, and silica decreased. Microbial communities changed significantly post Ian, with estuary-associated taxa expanding further offshore. The results show that the shelf ecosystem is highly susceptible to disturbances from waves, deposition and erosion, and water quality changes caused by mixing and coastal discharge. More routine monitoring of this environment is necessary to understand the long-term patterns of these disturbances, their interactions, and how they influence the resilience and recovery processes of shelf ecosystems. Full article
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19 pages, 19558 KB  
Article
Time-Series InSAR Monitoring of Permafrost-Related Surface Deformation at Tiksi Airport: Impacts of Climate Warming and Coastal Erosion on the Northernmost Siberian Mainland
by Qingkai Yan, Ze Zhang, Xianglong Li, Aoxiang Yan, Lisha Qiu, Andrei Zhang, Andrey Melnikov and Leonid Gagarin
Remote Sens. 2025, 17(10), 1757; https://doi.org/10.3390/rs17101757 - 17 May 2025
Viewed by 798
Abstract
The Arctic is the fastest-warming region on Earth, exhibiting a pronounced “amplifying effect”, which has triggered widespread permafrost thaw and increased the risk of surface deformation. In the Arctic coastal lowlands, permafrost is also affected by shoreline retreat. The impact of these dual [...] Read more.
The Arctic is the fastest-warming region on Earth, exhibiting a pronounced “amplifying effect”, which has triggered widespread permafrost thaw and increased the risk of surface deformation. In the Arctic coastal lowlands, permafrost is also affected by shoreline retreat. The impact of these dual stressors on surface deformation processes in the Arctic coastal lowlands remains poorly understood, particularly in terms of how permafrost thaw and shoreline retreat interact to influence surface stability. To address this gap, we employed PS-InSAR technology to monitor surface deformation from 2017 to 2021 at Tiksi Airport, the northernmost airport on the Siberian mainland, situated adjacent to the Laptev Sea. The results show that Tiksi Airport experiences localized significant surface subsidence, with deformation velocity ranging from −42 to 39 mm/yr. The near-coastal area of Tiksi Airport is strongly influenced by the ocean. Specifically, for extreme subsidence deformation (around –40 mm/yr), the surface subsidence velocity increases by 0.2 mm/yr for every 100 m closer to the coastline. Analysis of these deformation characteristics suggests that the primary causes of subsidence are land surface temperature (LST) warming and erosion by the Laptev Sea, which together lead to increased permafrost thaw. By revealing the combined effects of climate warming and coastal erosion on permafrost stability, this study contributes to enhancing the understanding of infrastructure safety and quality of life for residents in Arctic coastal subsidence areas. Full article
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16 pages, 7784 KB  
Article
Analysis of Sandbar–Trough Bed Level Changes Under Regular Wave Conditions—A Case Study of Ten-Mile Silver Beach, Hailing Island, China
by Xiaodong Bian, Zhiqiang Li, Yan Sun, Daoheng Zhu, Tao Chen and Chunhua Zeng
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2025, 13(5), 953; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13050953 - 14 May 2025
Viewed by 546
Abstract
Understanding the evolution of the sandbar–trough system under regular wave conditions is essential for revealing the dynamic responses of coastal morphology in non-extreme environments and provides a scientific basis for long-term beach stability assessments and coastal erosion management. This study conducted a three-day [...] Read more.
Understanding the evolution of the sandbar–trough system under regular wave conditions is essential for revealing the dynamic responses of coastal morphology in non-extreme environments and provides a scientific basis for long-term beach stability assessments and coastal erosion management. This study conducted a three-day field observation on Ten-Mile Silver Beach, Hailing Island, China, to investigate the coupling relationships between hydrodynamic factors and bed elevation changes during the morphological evolution of the sandbar–trough system. The results indicate that gravity wave (>0.04 Hz) energy is a key driver of bed elevation changes. During the erosion phase, gravity wave energy increases, and the peak wave energy frequency shifts toward lower frequencies, accompanied by a contraction of low-frequency energy and an expansion of high-frequency energy. In contrast, the accretion phase exhibits the opposite pattern. As the sandbar–trough system developed, the explanatory power of hydrodynamic factors on bed elevation decreased by 41% in the trough region and increased by 3.7% in the sandbar region, indicating a spatially differentiated pattern characterized by weakened forcing in the trough and enhanced response over the sandbar. During the geomorphic adjustment process, the trough area exhibited increased sensitivity, with gravity wave energy, near-infragravity wave (0.01–0.04 Hz) energy, far-infragravity wave (0.004–0.01 Hz) energy, mean wave height, and significant wave steepness reversing their influence directions on bed elevation. In contrast, the sandbar area maintained a more stable hydrodynamic control mechanism, with only the influence pattern of significant wave steepness undergoing a shift. This study enhances the understanding of geomorphology–hydrodynamics coupling within nearshore sandbar–trough systems and provides theoretical insights and technical support for monitoring and evaluating coastal erosion and accretion processes under normal wave conditions. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Morphological Changes in the Coastal Ocean)
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43 pages, 1866 KB  
Review
A Review of Open Remote Sensing Data with GIS, AI, and UAV Support for Shoreline Detection and Coastal Erosion Monitoring
by Demetris Christofi, Christodoulos Mettas, Evagoras Evagorou, Neophytos Stylianou, Marinos Eliades, Christos Theocharidis, Antonis Chatzipavlis, Thomas Hasiotis and Diofantos Hadjimitsis
Appl. Sci. 2025, 15(9), 4771; https://doi.org/10.3390/app15094771 - 25 Apr 2025
Viewed by 2817
Abstract
This review discusses the evolution and integration of open-access remote sensing technology in shoreline detection and coastal erosion monitoring through the use of Geographic Information Systems (GIS), Artificial Intelligence (AI), Unmanned Aerial Vehicles (UAVs), and Ground Truth Data (GTD). The Sentinel-2 and Landsat [...] Read more.
This review discusses the evolution and integration of open-access remote sensing technology in shoreline detection and coastal erosion monitoring through the use of Geographic Information Systems (GIS), Artificial Intelligence (AI), Unmanned Aerial Vehicles (UAVs), and Ground Truth Data (GTD). The Sentinel-2 and Landsat 8/9 missions are highlighted as the primary core datasets due to their open-access policy, worldwide coverage, and demonstrated applicability in long-term coastal monitoring. Landsat data have allowed the detection of multi-decadal trends in erosion since 1972, and Sentinel-2 has provided enhanced spatial and temporal resolutions since 2015. Through integration with GIS programs such as the Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS), AI-based processes such as sophisticated models including WaterNet, U-Net, and Convolutional Neural Networks (CNNs) are highly accurate in shoreline segmentation. UAVs supply complementary high-resolution data for localized validation, and ground truthing based on GNSS increases the precision of the produced map results. The fusion of UAV imagery, satellite data, and machine learning aids a multi-resolution approach to real-time shoreline monitoring and early warnings. Despite the developments seen with these tools, issues relating to atmosphere such as cloud cover, data fusion, and model generalizability in different coastal environments continue to require resolutions to be addressed by future studies in terms of enhanced sensors and adaptive learning approaches with the rise of AI technology the recent years. Full article
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22 pages, 5776 KB  
Article
Using Pleiades Satellite Imagery to Monitor Multi-Annual Coastal Dune Morphological Changes
by Olivier Burvingt, Bruno Castelle, Vincent Marieu, Bertrand Lubac, Alexandre Nicolae Lerma and Nicolas Robin
Remote Sens. 2025, 17(9), 1522; https://doi.org/10.3390/rs17091522 - 25 Apr 2025
Viewed by 1147
Abstract
In the context of sea levels rising, monitoring spatial and temporal topographic changes along coastal dunes is crucial to understand their dynamics since they represent natural barriers against coastal flooding and large sources of sediment that can mitigate coastal erosion. Different technologies are [...] Read more.
In the context of sea levels rising, monitoring spatial and temporal topographic changes along coastal dunes is crucial to understand their dynamics since they represent natural barriers against coastal flooding and large sources of sediment that can mitigate coastal erosion. Different technologies are currently used to monitor coastal dune topographic changes (GNSS, UAV, airborne LiDAR, etc.). Satellites recently emerged as a new source of topographic data by providing high-resolution images with a rather short revisit time at the global scale. Stereoscopic or tri-stereoscopic acquisition of some of these images enables the creation of 3D models using stereophotogrammetry methods. Here, the Ames Stereo Pipeline was used to produce digital elevation models (DEMs) from tri-stereo panchromatic and high-resolution Pleiades images along three 19 km long stretches of coastal dunes in SW France. The vertical errors of the Pleiades-derived DEMs were assessed by comparing them with DEMs produced from airborne LiDAR data collected a few months apart from the Pleiades images in 2017 and 2021 at the same three study sites. Results showed that the Pleiades-derived DEMs could reproduce the overall dune topography well, with averaged root mean square errors that ranged from 0.5 to 1.1 m for the six sets of tri-stereo images. The differences between DEMs also showed that Pleiades images can be used to monitor multi-annual coastal dune morphological changes. Strong erosion and accretion patterns over spatial scales ranging from hundreds of meters (e.g., blowouts) to tens of kilometers (e.g., dune retreat) were captured well, and allowed to quantify changes with reasonable errors (30%). Furthermore, relatively small averaged root mean square errors (0.63 m) can be obtained with a limited number of field-collected elevation points (five ground control points) to perform a simple vertical correction on the generated Pleiades DEMs. Among different potential sources of errors, shadow areas due to the steepness of the dune stoss slope and crest, along with planimetric errors that can also occur due to the steepness of the terrain, remain the major causes of errors still limiting accurate enough volumetric change assessment. However, ongoing improvements on the stereo matching algorithms and spatial resolution of the satellite sensors (e.g., Pleiades Neo) highlight the growing potential of Pleiades images as a cost-effective alternative to other mapping techniques of coastal dune topography. Full article
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26 pages, 9038 KB  
Article
River Radii: A Comparative National Framework for Remote Monitoring of Environmental Change at River Mouths
by Shane Orchard, Francois Thoral, Matt Pinkerton, Christopher N. Battershill, Rahera Ohia and David R. Schiel
Remote Sens. 2025, 17(8), 1369; https://doi.org/10.3390/rs17081369 - 11 Apr 2025
Viewed by 529
Abstract
River mouths are important indicators and mediators of interactions between rivers and the sea that mark the dispersal point for catchment-based stressors and subsidies. Satellite remote sensing data products and algorithms present many new possibilities for monitoring these dynamic and often inaccessible environments. [...] Read more.
River mouths are important indicators and mediators of interactions between rivers and the sea that mark the dispersal point for catchment-based stressors and subsidies. Satellite remote sensing data products and algorithms present many new possibilities for monitoring these dynamic and often inaccessible environments. In this study, we describe a national-scale comparative framework based on proximity to river mouths and show its application to the monitoring of coastal ecosystem health in Aotearoa New Zealand. We present results from light attenuation coefficient (Kd) analyses used to develop the framework considering data products of differing resolution and the effects of coastline geometries which might obscure the influence of catchment-derived stressors. Ten-year (2013–2022) Kd values from the highest-resolution product (500 m) showed significant differences (p < 0.01) in successively larger radii (1–20 km) despite the confounding influence of adjacent river mouths. Smaller radii returned a high variability that dropped markedly > 5 km. Tests of a 10 km radius showed that coastline geometry had a significant influence on Kd (p < 0.001), which is also likely for other water quality indicators. An analytical approach stratified by coastline geometry showed significant effects of stream order on open (p < 0.01) but not enclosed coasts, differences between marine bioregions (p < 0.05), and a degradation trend in the 90th percentile of Kd on enclosed coasts, which is indicative of extreme events associated with catchment erosion or sediment resuspension. We highlight applications of the framework to explore trends across many other meaningful scales (e.g., jurisdictions and ecosystem types) in addition to tracking changes at individual river mouths. Full article
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28 pages, 14780 KB  
Article
Longyearbyen Lagoon (Spitsbergen): Gravel Spits Movement Rate and Mechanisms
by Nataliya Marchenko and Aleksey Marchenko
Geographies 2025, 5(2), 18; https://doi.org/10.3390/geographies5020018 - 3 Apr 2025
Viewed by 825
Abstract
Understanding lagoon behavior is crucial for both scientific research and engineering decisions, especially in delicate Arctic environments. Lagoons are vital to coastal areas, often bolstering infrastructure resilience. Since spring 2019, we have monitored the Longyearbyen lagoon (Spitsbergen), vital for coastal erosion defense and [...] Read more.
Understanding lagoon behavior is crucial for both scientific research and engineering decisions, especially in delicate Arctic environments. Lagoons are vital to coastal areas, often bolstering infrastructure resilience. Since spring 2019, we have monitored the Longyearbyen lagoon (Spitsbergen), vital for coastal erosion defense and serving as a natural laboratory. The location’s well-developed infrastructure and accessible logistics make it an ideal testing site available at any time. It can be used for many natural scientific studies. The lagoon continually changes due to the primary action of waves and tides. This article focuses on gravel spit movement, accelerating in recent years to several meters monthly. Using methods of aerial and satellite images, laser scanning, and hydrodynamic measurements, we have delineated processes, rates, and mechanisms behind this movement. The measurements revealed an accelerating eastward movement of the lagoon spit, from 8 m in the first year to 86 m in the fourth year of observation. This can be explained by a combination of the reconstruction of the Longyearbyen riverbed and increased flow because of climate change. Notably, the expansion does not only occur in the summer months: from September 2022 to February 2023, the spit moved by 40 m, and then, by 19 m from February to June 2023. We found that the bed-load transport along the spit coupled with gravel slides are the primary drives of lagoon expansion and growth. We also investigated movements of groundwater in the spit and changes in gravel contents along the spit, influencing the water saturation of the gravel. Modelling these processes aids in forecasting lagoon system development, crucial for informed management and engineering decisions in Arctic coastal regions. Full article
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