Search Results (247)

As a rich source of biologically active compounds, pomegranate peel is a valuable by-product with applications in the food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic sectors. The present study aimed to investigate the phytochemical composition, antioxidant and antimicrobial activity, photoprotective activity and application in a cosmetic emulsion of extracts obtained from pomegranate peel by different solvents. The analysis of phenolic compounds was determined by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC); the total phenolic content (TPC) and the total flavonoid content (TFC) were evaluated using standard spectrophotometric methods; the antioxidant activity was assessed by the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical-scavenging, ferric-reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) and 2,2′-azinobis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) assays; antimicrobial screening was performed against twenty test microorganisms; the ultraviolet (UV) protection effect of extracts and cosmetic emulsion was assessed spectrophotometrically in the wavelength range of 290–320 nm. HPLC analysis revealed fourteen phenolic compounds, including four phenolic acids (ellagic, gallic, p-coumaric, and ferulic), two tannins (pedunculagin and punicalagin), six flavonoids (myricetin, hesperidin, quercetin, luteolin, kaempferol, and apigenin), and two quercetin glycosides (rutin and hyperoside). The four pomegranate peel extracts demonstrated high TPC, TFC and antioxidant potential (DMSO > 70% ethanolic > methanolic > aqueous), and significant antimicrobial activity. The four extracts showed a remarkable UV protection effect. When applied in a cosmetic emulsion, the ethanolic extract showed sun protection factor (SPF) values from 13.59 (0.5 mg/g) to 50.65 (5 mg/g). Based on the results obtained, we can conclude that pomegranate peel is a promising source of bioactive compounds, which can be successfully utilized by integration into various pharmaceutical and value-added skin health products. Full article

The cosmetic industry is growing at an impressive rate worldwide. In the cosmetic field, natural-origin ingredients represent the new frontier in this industry. Among the main components of cosmetics, lipids, emulsifiers, rheological modifiers, preservatives, colorants, and antioxidants can be found. These compounds form emulsions, which are among the main cosmetic formulations. An important aspect in this regard is the evaluation of emulsions’ stability over time and emulsions’ production methodology. In this paper, a comparison is made between two emulsion production technologies, the Standard and the “One-Pot” methods, through the characterization of the raw material ABWAX^® Revomul, a multifunctional wax for cosmetic use which consists of a low-melting structuring wax of vegetal origin (Rhus wax) and a natural emulsifier (Polyglyceril-3 Stearate). First, we evaluated the affinity between the wax raw materials and emollients of different chemical nature; then, we analyzed the impact of the production method on the emulsions to identify similarities and differences. ABWAX^® Revomul demonstrated a high level of effectiveness in regard to stabilizing oil-in-water emulsions. This study suggests that from an industrial point of view, the application of the two procedures allows products with different characteristics to be obtained, consequently allowing a specific method to be chosen to obtain the desired product. Full article

The cosmetics industry has been seeking to develop products with renewable natural ingredients to reduce the use of or even replace synthetic substances. Biosurfactants can help meet this demand. These natural compounds are renewable, biodegradable, and non-toxic or have low toxicity, offering minimal risk to humans and the environment, which has attracted the interest of an emerging consumer market and, consequently, the cosmetics industry. The aim of the present study was to produce a biosurfactant from the yeast Starmerella bombicola ATCC 22214 cultivated in a mineral medium containing 10% soybean oil and 5% glucose. The biosurfactant reduced the surface tension of water from 72.0 ± 0.1 mN/m to 33.0 ± 0.3 mN/m after eight days of fermentation. The yield was 53.35 ± 0.39 g/L and the critical micelle concentration was 1000 mg/L. The biosurfactant proved to be a good emulsifier of oils used in cosmetic formulations, with emulsification indices ranging from 45.90 ± 1.69% to 68.50 ± 1.10%. The hydrophilic–lipophilic balance index demonstrated the wetting capacity of the biosurfactant and its tendency to form oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, with 50.0 ± 0.20% foaming capacity. The biosurfactant did not exhibit cytotoxicity in the MTT assay or irritant potential. Additionally, an antioxidant activity of 58.25 ± 0.32% was observed at a concentration of 40 mg/mL. The compound also exhibited antimicrobial activity against various pathogenic microorganisms. The characterisation of the biosurfactant using magnetic nuclear resonance and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy revealed that the biomolecule is a glycolipid with an anionic nature. The results demonstrate that biosurfactant produced in this work has potential as an active biotechnological ingredient for innovative, eco-friendly cosmetic formulations. Full article

Background: Olive pomace, a byproduct of olive oil production, represents approximately 85% of the processed material and poses environmental risks when improperly discarded. Its composition is rich in polyphenols with potential for cosmetic use, especially in skin barrier care. Objective: To develop a natural extract rich in antioxidants from olive pomace using sustainable solvents (water and 1,3-propanediol) for skin barrier support. Methods: The phenolic composition and in vitro biological activities of the extracts were analyzed. Results: The extracts demonstrated a reducing capacity (15 to 33 mg GAE/g) and flavonoid content (4 to 5 mg QE/g). In addition, their antioxidant capacity was proven through the inhibition of the DPPH radical (7% to 91%) and ABTS (7% to 95%) and the reduction in oxidation in the beta-carotene/linoleic acid system (6% to 35%), presenting results superior to those of tocopherol acetate. The hydroxytyrosol and oleuropein compounds, ranging from 28 to 54 and 51 to 85 µg/mL, respectively, were quantified via HPLC. The extract with the highest levels of hydroxytyrosol and oleuropein was analyzed via UHPLC-QqTOF-MS, and 33 compounds were identified. This extract showed antiglycation activity (24% to 40%). The incorporation of this extract into a cosmetic emulsion resulted in sufficient antioxidant capacity to replace tocopherol acetate. Conclusions: The use of effective extraction techniques and nontoxic solvents ensures the sustainability and safety of the extract for application as a natural cosmetic ingredient, aiming to promote the health and integrity of the skin barrier. Full article

The purpose of this study was to demonstrate the feasibility of using spheroidal cellulose powders with different particle sizes (2 and 7 µm) in face creams and to evaluate their effect on selected physicochemical and performance properties of these products. A series of prototypes of facial creams with spheroidal cellulose were prepared. The following tests were carried out: stability, dynamic viscosity, texture analysis, degree of skin hydration, and evaluation of sensory appeal by consumers. It was observed that none of the creams showed instability over time. The addition of powdered spheroidal cellulose was found to increase dynamic viscosity and hardness and reduce the adhesion strength of the tested emulsions to the base face cream. A positive effect of the presence of polymeric raw materials on the level of skin hydration was observed. The most favorable results were obtained for the E4 cream prototype containing spheroidal powders of both 2 and 7 µm particle size at a weight ratio of 2.5 to 2.5. In addition, according to the members of the sensory panel, the E4 face cream was best evaluated and showed sensory benefits. The study concluded that spheroidal cellulose powders are a promising biodegradable alternative to microplastics in cosmetics. Full article

Preservatives are essential for ensuring the stability, safety, and efficacy of pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, and food products. However, synthetic preservatives often raise toxicity concerns. This study evaluated Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf extracts and coffee by-products from Coffea arabica and Coffea canephora as potential natural preservatives for emulsions. Antimicrobial activity was assessed against Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Candida albicans, along with cytotoxicity tests on human keratinocytes and antioxidant activity. The most effective extracts were incorporated into an oil-in-water emulsion for evaluation. C. arabica extracts showed the best results among coffee samples, with 43.53 mg GAE/g (gallic acid equivalents) and 2.32 mg QE/g of total phenolics (quercetin equivalents) and flavonoids, and minimum inhibitory concentrations (MICs) of 12.5 mg/mL against Escherichia coli, and 25 mg/mL against Staphylococcus aureus and Pseudomonas aeruginosa. Rosemary extract showed 158.01 ± 23.67 mg GAE/g and 1.95 ± 0.05 mg QE/g, with MICs of 2.5 mg/mL against E. coli, 1.25 mg/mL against P. aeruginosa, 0.3 mg/mL against S. aureus, and 0.08 mg/mL against Candida albicans. However, rosemary extracts displayed complete inhibition of keratinocyte growth at 20 µg/mL. A combination of both extracts had synergistic effects against S. aureus and P. aeruginosa. The emulsion met microbial safety standards in the challenge test for bacteria but not yeast. The results suggest that rosemary extracts enhance the potential of coffee by-product as a preservative system, and as a multifunctional excipient system in cosmetics, offering preservation and antioxidant protection. However, further strategies, such as adding other ingredients or adjusting the formulation pH, are required to ensure yeast inhibition. Full article

The growing demand for sustainable materials has led to innovation in the development of natural compound-based solutions for industrial applications. This study introduces composite nanoparticles (NP-CsYBE) synthesized from chitosan (Cs) and saponin-rich yucca extract (YBE), highlighting their application in Pickering emulsions (PE). Characterization via DLS and AFM revealed NP-CsYBE as spherical particles with a hydrodynamic diameter of 230 nm and a ζ-potential of +36.9 mV, showing a non-aggregated morphology. Comparative analyses of emulsions formulated with Cs nanoparticles (Cs-NP) and YBE were conducted to assess the individual contributions of each component. Functional evaluations revealed that PE based on NP-CsYBE exhibited superior stability over time compared to those with Cs-NP or YBE alone. Additionally, the rheological properties of NP-CsYBE PE were influenced by pH: liquid-viscous behavior dominated at pH 4, while at pH 6.5, solid-elastic properties prevailed. Notably, increased temperature enhanced its mechanical properties. This innovative approach provides a framework for applying natural nanoparticles in PE formation, offering potential applications in the pharmaceutical, food, medical, and cosmetic industries, as well as biomaterials for protecting lipophilic substances. By leveraging natural resources, this work advances the understanding of natural nanoparticle-based systems and their role in developing sustainable and functional materials for industrial use. Full article

The cosmetic industry in the Ecuadorian Amazon region faces the challenge of competitively integrating locally sourced plant-based raw materials into efficient and sustainable production processes. This study proposes the design of a pilot plant for the production of a cosmetic emulsion (CE), using oils extracted from Morete (Mauritia flexuosa) and Ungurahua (Oenocarpus bataua), with a focus on process intensification to reduce both capital investment and resource consumption. Process design methodologies and computational simulation (SuperPro Designer V10) were applied, along with Systematic Layout Planning (SLP) principles to optimize spatial configuration. The intensified scheme enabled the integration of extraction lines, reducing the number of major equipment units from 12 to 9 and lowering the investment from USD 1,016,000 to USD 719,000. Energy and environmental indicators showed consumption levels of 5.86 kWh and 48.4 kg of water per kg of cream, which are lower than those reported for other natural cosmetics plants. The intensified design achieved a Net Present Value (NPV) of USD 577,000 and a payback period of 3.93 years. Furthermore, solid by-products were valorized through circular economy principles. This approach offers a feasible, viable, and sustainable solution for the utilization of these Amazonian oils in the cosmetic industry. Full article

Biomimetic peptides represent a growing class of active ingredients in modern cosmeceuticals, designed to mimic the function of the naturally occurring peptides involved in skin homeostasis, repair, and regeneration. Among them, acetyl hexapeptide-8 (AH-8), often referred to as a “botox-like” peptide, has received considerable attention for its potential to dynamically reduce wrinkles through the modulation of neuromuscular activity. AH-8 is widely used in topical formulations intended for anti-aging effects, scar treatment, and skin rejuvenation. This review provides a comprehensive overview of the structure and proposed mechanisms of action of AH-8, with particular focus on its efficacy and skin penetration properties. Due to its hydrophilic nature and relatively large molecular size, AH-8 faces limited permeability through the lipophilic stratum corneum, making effective dermal delivery challenging. Formulation strategies such as oil-in-water (O/W) and multiple water-in-oil-in-water (W/O/W) emulsions have been explored to enhance its delivery, but the ability of AH-8 to reach neuromuscular junctions remains uncertain. Preclinical and clinical studies indicate that AH-8 may reduce wrinkle depth, improve skin elasticity, and enhance hydration. However, the precise biological mechanisms underlying these effects—particularly the peptide’s ability to inhibit muscle contraction when applied topically—remain incompletely understood. In some studies, AH-8 has also shown beneficial effects in scar remodeling and sebum regulation. Despite promising cosmetic outcomes, AH-8’s low skin penetration limits its bioavailability and therapeutic potential. This review emphasizes the need for further research on formulation science and delivery systems, which are essential for optimizing the effectiveness of peptide-based cosmeceuticals and validating their use as non-invasive alternatives to injectable treatments. Full article

Ectoine is a substance produced by extremophiles and is naturally used by them as protection against adverse environmental conditions in which they live. Scientific contributions discuss its excellent effect through cosmotropic properties, prevention of secondary messenger release in cells, and transcription factors. The influence on the lipid layer of the cell membrane and its preventive effect as a UV filter were also demonstrated. What is more, its anti-oxidative effect was established. Ectoine works as an immunostimulant and also has anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer properties. These attributes are dominating factors in the use of ectoine’s properties in skin fractionation treatment with a C${\mathrm{O}}_2$ laser. In the following work, the influence of ectoine on skin parameters was described, focusing on redness, moisturization, and TEWL after the use of a C${\mathrm{O}}_2$ laser (Załęska 2019). The rheological properties of preparations with ectoine addition were also tested. The yield point was determined, the viscosity changes of cosmetic preparations were measured with increasing shear rates, and oscillation tests were performed. With increasing percentages of ectoine and frequency of application, the occurrence of redness after C${\mathrm{O}}_2$ therapy decreased. The highest moisture level values from 54.4 × 0.02 mg/c${\mathrm{m}}^2$ to 72.5 × 0.02 mg/c${\mathrm{m}}^2$ were obtained for preparation A applied twice a day; for the same preparation, a reduction in TEWL from 6.2 to 5.3 g/(${\mathrm{m}}^2$·h) was obtained. The results of the tests of cosmetic emulsions allowed us to conclude that the preparations in the analyzed shear rate range at all tested temperatures are non-Newtonian liquids that are shear-thinning and have a flow limit. The obtained results of the conducted research prove the positive effect of dermocosmetics with ectoine content in the process of skin healing. Full article

In recent years, there has been a growing interest in natural and sustainable cosmetic ingredients, particularly those derived from Amazonian plant oils. The present research focuses on the creation of a prototype cosmetic emulsion from two Amazonian oils, morete oil (Mauritia flexuosa L.f.) and ungurahua oil (Oenocarpus bataua Mart). The aim of the study was to develop a conceptual design of the process for making cosmetic emulsion using Amazonian oils. The methodology consisted of observational data collection, definition of unit operations and equipment, and process simulation. The design was simulated using SuperPro Designer V10.0. Experimental data, unit operations, equipment, and operation time confirmed the feasibility of a conceptual process design for scaling up. In the conceptual design, an operation time of 4.25 h was estimated, which would allow the production of two or more batches per day, depending on the demand, and the initial investment was expected to be recovered within 6.24 years. This study highlights the potential application of Amazonian oils in the cosmetic industry, promoting financially viable, natural, and ecologic products. Future research should analyze extraction yields, alternative strategies for efficient scale-up, and the long-term stability of emulsions under different storage conditions. Full article

Chronic inflammation poses a significant threat to physical health. The increasing prevalence of skin disorders is attributed to external factors such as environmental pollution and UV-induced stress. To address damaged skin, the cosmetic market increasingly favors the development of effective products containing natural active compounds. This study constitutes the initial examination of the anti-inflammatory properties of polyphenols extracted from Sargassum pallidum. The experimental results demonstrated that SPP significantly reduced intracellular levels of nitric oxide (NO), reactive oxygen species (ROS), and multiple inflammatory mediators. Furthermore, SPP exhibited an inhibitory effect on the mRNA expression of inflammation-related genes: compared to the control group, the mRNA levels of IL-1β, IL-6, TNF-α, iNOS, and COX-2 decreased by 4.94 ± 0.72-fold, 113.64 ± 27.46-fold, 1.40 ± 0.21-fold, 11.68 ± 3.90-fold, and 0.47 ± 0.11-fold, respectively (data presented as mean ± SD, * p < 0.05). SPP was incorporated into cosmetic formulations as a natural active ingredient to create emulsions and creams. Upon assessment of various skin parameters, these formulations demonstrated significant skincare benefits. In conclusion, SPP exhibits promising anti-inflammatory properties, making it a potential natural active ingredient for applications in cosmetics. Full article

The purpose of this study is to develop a fundamental material for cosmetics by encapsulating the extract obtained from Dioscorea quinqueloba using chitosan, a natural material. Active compounds were extracted using ethanol from Dioscorea quinqueloba produced in Andong, South Korea. These compounds were encapsulated in mucin extracted from Dioscorea quinqueloba and chitosan derived from cuttlefish bones to form microcapsules. The encapsulation process involves the formation of a W/O emulsion, followed by crosslinking with glutaraldehyde. The resulting microcapsules were examined by scanning electron microscopy, which revealed spherical structures with an average size ranging from 890 to 1130 nm. The toxicity, antioxidant activity, and anti-aging properties of these microcapsules were assessed to evaluate their potential use in cosmetic formulations. The microcapsules showed no toxicity at the concentrations used, and their antioxidant and anti-aging activities were significantly higher than those of the control group. These findings suggest that microcapsules have strong potential as components in cosmetic compositions. Full article

Emulsions play a crucial part in the whole beauty and care market, especially in skin and hair care domains where, due to their extraordinary versatility, they represent most of the finite products. Being thermodynamically unstable, one key aspect of their formulation is the use of stabilizers that ensure a long lifetime under different conditions. In this framework a key role is related to rheology modifiers, which include all those raw ingredients added to achieve, among others, desirable inflow characteristics that would not be possible to gain in their absence. In this review, strong attention was dedicated to different polymers and formulation strategies to understand the key role of these ingredients, widely used in emulsion-based cosmetics formulations. Full article

Emollients are multifunctional, water-insoluble ingredients used in cosmetic products. This study aims to define the chemical and physical characteristics and test the activities of a new ester-based emollient, Sharofeel DS (DS), in comparison with other commonly used emollients (fatty alcohols, esters, and silicone emollients). The new entity was synthesized from naturally derived reactants and designed to be utilized in different cosmetic applications, such as skin care, hair care, and makeup. Methods: The emollient was characterized on the basis of its physical properties (Ultraviolet/Infrared (UV/IR) analysis, density, dynamic viscosity, refractive index, surface tension, and contact angle), calorimetric properties by thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) and differential scanning calorimetry analysis (DSC), viscoelastic properties as is and in emulsion, and toxicity tests. According to the results obtained, DS demonstrated density (0.881 g/mL) and viscosity (86 cPs) values comparable to fatty alcohol emollients, with a refractive index (1.457) comparable to fatty alcohol and ester-based emollients and a surface tension (22.53 mN/m ± 0.11 mN/m) similar to the ester-based ones. It proved stable below 308 °C and capable of reducing the loss of internal water from hair strands (−7.5% w/w). Lastly, the toxicity tests proved that DS is safe for topical skincare, haircare, and makeup applications. Full article