Search Results (458)

Prickly pear (Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill.) generates substantial agro-industrial by-products, such as press cake, seed, and oil, that remain underexploited despite their recognized phytochemical richness. This study reports the systematic optimization, characterization, and bioactivity profiling of flavonoid-rich extracts recovered from these three matrices. A Box–Behnken design (BBD) coupled with response surface methodology (RSM) was applied to optimize the ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) of total flavonoid content (TFC) from press cake using a natural deep eutectic solvent (NADES: fructose–glycerol–sorbitol–water and FGSH), selected through an initial screening of fifteen solvent systems. The quadratic polynomial model showed excellent fit (R² = 0.9852; R²adj = 0.9687; MAPE = 1.31%; Durbin–Watson = 1.857), and optimal extraction conditions were established at 37.6 min extraction time, 35.6% ultrasonic power, and 29.4 °C, yielding a maximum predicted TFC of 54.78 ± 0.49 mg quercetin equivalents (QE)/mL. HPLC-DAD analysis of the press cake extract revealed five isorhamnetin derivatives as the dominant flavonoids, with isorhamnetin-3-O-glucoside (23.18 ± 0.12 mg/g DW) and isorhamnetin-3-O-rutinoside (13.80 ± 0.28 mg/g DW) as the most abundant. Comprehensive bioactivity assessment demonstrated significant antioxidant capacities (CUPRAC: 191.35 ± 3.22 µM AAE; ORAC: 184.44 ± 3.44 µM TE; DPPH: 103.47 ± 9.98 µM TE for press cake extract), potent in cellulo ROS/RNS suppression in a yeast UV-stress model (85.9 ± 1.0% inhibition for press cake), and differential tyrosinase inhibition across fractions (press cake: 32.8%; seed: 57.5%; oil: 83.8%), highlighting the oil as a potent anti-melanogenic ingredient. In silico safety prediction (ProTox-II/pkCSM) confirmed the favorable toxicity profiles of all identified isorhamnetin derivatives (LD₅₀ > 5000 mg/kg; Toxicity Class V). These results collectively position Opuntia ficus-indica by-products as high-value natural sources of bioactive flavonoids with applications in cosmetic, nutraceutical, and dermatological formulations. Full article

The growing demand for clean-label products has intensified the search for natural and sustainable alternatives to synthetic colorants. Anthocyanins stand out as promising pigments due to their coloring capacity and bioactive properties. This study evaluated the efficiency of natural deep eutectic solvents (NADES) in extracting anthocyanins from agro-industrial by-products—molasses grass, black corn cobs, and grape skins—and their application in food and cosmetic matrices. A simplex-centroid mixture design with Response Surface Methodology was used to optimize solvent composition based on sorbitol, citric acid, and glycine. NADES showed high extraction efficiency, especially for black corn cobs, reaching 54.20 mg/100 g under optimized conditions. Although conventional extraction performed better for grape skins, NADES demonstrated competitive efficiency and superior environmental performance (AGREE index 0.73 vs. 0.58). The extracts were successfully incorporated into yogurt and moisturizing gel formulations. Yogurts maintained stable physicochemical properties and color, while gels showed good homogeneity and chromatic stability. These findings support the use of NADES as green solvents for recovering natural colorants from agro-industrial residues, with potential applications in sustainable food and cosmetic products. Full article

Skin aging is associated with oxidative stress, extracellular matrix degradation, and dysregulation of melanogenesis, leading to wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and hyperpigmentation. Natural plant-derived compounds have attracted increasing interest as multifunctional cosmetic ingredients due to their antioxidant and anti-aging properties. Mai-Kae-Den-Klong (MKDK), a traditional Thai longevity herbal formula composed of Albizia procera (Roxb.) Benth., Cyperus rotundus L., Diospyros rhodocalyx Kurz, Piper nigrum L., Streblus asper Lour., and Tinospora crispa (L.) Hook.f. & Thomson, has historically been used to promote vitality and healthy aging; however, its potential application as a cosmetic anti-aging ingredient remains scientifically unexplored. Therefore, this study investigated the anti-aging potential of MKDK extract using integrated enzyme-based bioassays and in silico approaches. Phytochemical profiling of the ethanolic extract was performed using LC-MS analysis, revealing diverse bioactive constituents, including flavonoids, phenolic glycosides, alkaloids, and terpenoids, with (−)-epicatechin, procyanidin B1, and piperine identified as major metabolites. Antioxidant activity was evaluated using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) radical scavenging assays, while inhibitory activities against tyrosinase, collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase were assessed to determine skin anti-aging potential. The extract exhibited strong antioxidant activity, with IC₅₀ values of 17.23 ± 2.11 µg/mL for DPPH and 11.87 ± 1.77 µg/mL for ABTS assays. In addition, the extract demonstrated inhibitory effects against tyrosinase (IC₅₀ = 41.25 ± 1.56 µg/mL), elastase (IC₅₀ = 49.51 ± 3.69 µg/mL), collagenase (IC₅₀ = 61.54 ± 2.88 µg/mL), and hyaluronidase (IC₅₀ = 63.74 ± 6.32 µg/mL), suggesting multifunctional anti-aging properties associated with skin brightening and extracellular matrix preservation. Network pharmacology analysis predicted multiple aging-related signaling pathways, particularly the FoxO signaling pathway, which is associated with oxidative stress regulation and longevity. Molecular docking analysis further demonstrated favorable binding affinities of procyanidin B1, epicatechin, and piperine toward skin-aging-related enzymes, supporting their potential contribution to the observed bioactivities. Overall, these findings suggest that MKDK possesses promising cosmeceutical potential as a natural multifunctional anti-aging ingredient and provides scientific support for the application of traditional Thai herbal formulations in cosmetic and skin health products. Full article

The valorization of agri-food by-products generated during juice extraction represents a key strategy within circular economy frameworks, as it reduces the environmental impact of waste disposal while creating added value and improving the food supply chain. In this work, five betaine-based natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDES) differing in their hydrogen-bond donors, namely citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, glycerol, and ethylene glycol, were used for the green extraction of blueberry pomace, a largely underutilized by-product that is nevertheless rich in bioactive compounds. The extracts were characterized by liquid chromatography coupled with diode-array and tandem mass spectrometric detection, allowing targeted profiling of anthocyanins and non-anthocyanin phenolics, including phenolic acids, flavonoids, and phenolic aldehydes. The extraction performance of NaDES was benchmarked against conventional solvents (water and ethanol) to evaluate differences in selectivity and efficiency toward distinct phenolic classes. Antioxidant capacity was determined using DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging assays. Among the NaDES systems, the betaine–citric acid NaDES extract exhibited notable phenolic recovery together with marked radical scavenging activity. After evaluating its inhibitory activity against elastase and tyrosinase, enzymes involved in the skin aging process, the selected NaDES extract was incorporated into a natural-based antiaging cosmetic formulation, and its main physicochemical properties were assessed to verify suitability for topical application. This study demonstrated that the use of NaDES represents an environmentally friendly and sustainable approach to transform blueberry by-products into high-value, safe, and ready-to-use cosmetic functional ingredients without the need for solvent removal. Full article

This study presents the development and comprehensive characterization of innovative formulations for facial toners based on micellar water–glycol systems. The study evaluated aqueous solutions of three natural glycols—1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, and 1,2-pentylene glycol—both as extraction agents and as functional ingredients in facial toner formulations. The physicochemical properties (viscosity, color, contact angle) and aggregation behavior (CMC, particle size) were analyzed to determine the effect of the extraction medium on the efficiency of plant-derived metabolite extraction. Grapevine buds, obtained from a byproduct of grape cultivation, were used as the plant material. The extracts obtained were evaluated in terms of active ingredient content and antioxidant potential using LC-MS/MS and UV-VIS techniques, respectively. The results showed that pentylene glycol-based micellar systems exhibited the lowest CMC value and the most favorable wetting properties, leading to the highest phenolic content and antioxidant activity in the extracts. Facial toners containing these extracts were subjected to functional and application tests, assessing, among other things, viscosity, wetting angle, and irritation potential. The study results provide new insights into the relationship between surfactant aggregation, glycol-based media, and cosmetic formulation design, offering a balanced and effective strategy for developing multifunctional skin care products. Full article

Cyclodextrins (CDs) have emerged as important encapsulation platforms in dermatologic and cosmetic sciences, addressing critical challenges related to the solubility and stability of bioactive compounds. This review (Part I) systematically explores the relationship between the molecular architecture of CDs and their functional performance at the skin interface. A comprehensive analysis of the physicochemical properties of natural and derivative cyclodextrins is presented, alongside an evaluation of their interaction mechanisms with the skin barrier and current regulatory frameworks. This study highlights how the hydrophobic cavity of CDs enables the successful encapsulation of botanical extracts, significantly enhancing their bioavailability and photostability. Furthermore, the mechanistic insights provided clarify how appropriately selected and formulated CDs can modulate skin penetration while maintaining acceptable epidermal barrier compatibility. A critical synthesis of safety data and toxicological profiles confirms the suitability of specific CD types for topical application, supported by an overview of the evolving European and international legislative landscapes. Understanding the molecular design and safety constraints of cyclodextrin-based systems is essential for developing next-generation dermocosmetics. This foundational analysis provides the necessary framework for the clinical and technological applications discussed in the subsequent part of this review. Full article

Black garlic peels (BGPs) are a largely underutilized by-product despite representing an untapped source of bioactive compounds. This study presents a sustainable upcycling protocol for black garlic peels, evaluating natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDES) to develop multifunctional extracts for green cosmetics. Following the screening of four eutectic mixtures, the choline chloride–lactic acid (ChCl:LA) system demonstrated the highest extraction efficiency. The optimized extract yielded a remarkable total phenolic content (5216.61 µg GAE/mL) and strong antioxidant capacity, confirmed by DPPH and FRAP assays, associated with recovering both free and bound phenolic fractions. Subsequent HPLC profiling characterized the extract, and the comparative analysis explicitly demonstrated that antimicrobial activity is entirely driven by and identical to the pure eutectic solvent vehicle rather than the extracted garlic biomass, with broad-spectrum efficacy against C. albicans, P. aeruginosa, and S. aureus. To evaluate its cosmeceutical potential, the extract was incorporated into emulsions (5%, 10%, 15% w/w) with inorganic or organic UV filters. Although the direct Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and the UVA Protection Factor (UVA-PF) did not show enhancing results, a photochemiluminescence (PCL) analysis revealed a synergistic behaviour with organic filters, successfully boosting the formulation’s biological antioxidant shield. This pioneering work highlights BGP’s upcycling potential, proposing NaDES extracts as highly promising multifunctional, antioxidant, and antimicrobial ingredients for next-generation cosmeceuticals. Full article

The cosmetics industry continually seeks innovations that deliver ever-higher performance while meeting growing sustainability requirements. Although numerous plant-derived surfactants have recently emerged, achieving performance levels comparable to synthetic benchmarks remains challenging. In this study, we aimed to design a natural polyglycerol-10 ester (PG-10 ester) capable of stabilizing demanding systems such as high-internal-phase nano-emulsions (nano-HIPE) and mineral oil-in-water sunscreens. We investigated the key parameters governing surfactant efficiency: fatty acid composition from C12 to C22 or their blends, the presence of partial glycerides, and reaction parameters. Various polyglycerol esters were synthesized and characterized through chromatographic analysis and HLB determination, and then incorporated into formulations to assess their performance. This work made it possible to identify four parameters as essential for achieving high surfactant efficiency: (i) grafting multiple fatty acids onto a single polyglycerol backbone, (ii) combining short/medium-chain (<C16) and long-chain (≥C16) fatty acids, (iii) including partial glycerides within the surfactant, and (iv) allowing the reaction medium to reach full equilibrium. Achieving full equilibrium results in synthesis medium clarity, which allows the HLB value to rise from 6 to 7 to 11–12 and ensures complex emulsion stability. This rational design approach led to a natural PG-10 ester whose performance equals that of conventional synthetic benchmarks, providing a significant advancement toward sustainable high-performance surfactant technologies. Full article

Lipid oxidation is a major cause of instability in cosmetics containing vegetable oils, compromising their quality and durability. This study evaluates the in vitro antioxidant activity of two essential oils of Ocimum basilicum L., obtained from plants grown in Argentina (OBA) and Italy (OBI), and their contribution to the oxidative stability of sweet almond oil. The essential oils were characterized by GC-MS, revealing significant differences in chemical composition: linalool represents the major constituent in both samples, with a higher concentration in OBI (64.42%) compared to OBA (55.28%). A sharp contrast was observed in the levels of eugenol and 1,8-cineole: while OBA was characterized by a higher eugenol content (18.44% vs. 2.25%), OBI showed a more pronounced presence of 1,8-cineole (13.90% vs. 5.38%). Antioxidant activity was determined by DPPH and PCL assays, while the oxidative stability of the cosmetic oil was measured by OXITEST, evaluating the effect of DL-alpha-tocopherol combined with the two essential oils on oxidative stability. OBA, with its higher phenolic content, consistently outperformed OBI in antioxidant activity: the IC₅₀ values from the DPPH assay were 43.3 ± 2.0 µg/mL (OBA) and 81.98 ± 1.98 µg/mL (OBI), while PCL values were 887.47 ± 6.01 and 363.82 ± 31.27 µmol Trolox equivalents (TE)/g, respectively. In the OXITEST model, the combination of 0.2% DL-alpha-tocopherol with 0.3% OBA yielded the highest oxidative stability (Induction Period = 1611 min), compared to 1114 min for the oil alone and 1508 min for the oil with tocopherol alone. This work provides new data on the functional use of basil essential oils in the oxidative stabilization of plant cosmetic oils, highlighting their potential use as natural antioxidants, in line with the increasing demand for clean label formulations and meeting the criteria of leading natural cosmetic standards. Full article

Zinc oxide (ZnO) is widely utilized as a mineral UV filter in sunscreen formulations due to its broad-spectrum efficacy, photostability, and acceptance by natural cosmetic certification bodies. Despite its growing use, the environmental impact of ZnO on marine ecosystems remains under debate. While zinc is an essential micronutrient for aquatic organisms, excessive concentrations of Zn compounds, particularly in nanoparticulate form, have been thought to have detrimental effects, including coral bleaching, oxidative stress, and disruptions in metabolic and reproductive functions in marine species. This review synthesizes the current peer-reviewed literature on the ecotoxicological effects of ZnO, with particular emphasis on coral reef health, bioaccumulation, and trophic transfer pathways. Furthermore, real-world exposure scenarios are evaluated, incorporating field data from densely visited coastal regions and modeled environmental concentrations under worst-case use conditions. The aim of this study is to provide a comprehensive risk assessment of ZnO in sunscreen applications, balancing its recognized safety in human use with potential long-term impacts on aquatic ecosystems, thereby informing future regulatory decisions and sustainable product development. Full article

Jicama (Pachyrhizus erosus L.) is a tropical tuber crop that has potential not only as a food source but also as a natural active ingredient in the cosmetics industry. This study aims to evaluate the phenology of tuber development and the content of primary and secondary metabolites of two jicama accessions (Bogor and Kebumen) at three tuber ages (3, 4, and 5 months). The parameters observed included tuber weight, starch yield, total soluble solids (TSS), total titratable acidity (TTA), vitamin C, total phenols, total flavonoids, and antioxidant activity (% inhibition). For data analysis, we used the T-test to compare differences between accessions. The results showed that tuber weight and starch yield increased significantly up to 5 months of age, while secondary metabolite content (phenols, flavonoids, antioxidant activity) was higher in young tubers (3–4 months). This study shows a trade-off between productivity (starch and vitamin C) and bioactive metabolite content (phenols, flavonoids, antioxidants) as the tubers age. The Bogor accession has a more stable vitamin C content, phenol levels, and antioxidant activity, while the Kebumen accession shows higher flavonoid levels in young tubers. The optimal tuber age and accession recommended to obtain a balance between productivity and secondary metabolite content is the Bogor accession at 4 months of age. This supports the potential use of jicama in the cosmetics industry as a brightening agent (vitamin C), humectant (sugar), anti-aging agent (phenols, flavonoids), and base ingredient for natural starch-based formulations. This study provides the first integrated evaluation of tuber phenology, primary metabolites, and secondary metabolite dynamics of two Indonesian jicama accessions in relation to cosmetic functionality. The results highlight a clear trade-off between productivity and bioactive compound accumulation, offering a scientific basis for selecting optimal harvest age and accession for cosmetic raw materials This study provides the first integrated evaluation of tuber phenology, primary metabolites, and secondary metabolite dynamics of two Indonesian jicama accessions in relation to cosmetic functionality. The results highlight a clear trade-off between productivity and bioactive compound accumulation, offering a scientific basis for selecting the optimal harvest age and accession for cosmetic raw materials. Full article

Plant extracts are widely used as natural pesticides, cosmetic ingredients, and in pharmaceutical applications. However, their poor water solubility and stability limit their usability. Lipid nanoparticles (LNPs) offer an effective encapsulation strategy to overcome these challenges. This study demonstrates the encapsulation of three representative substances from these industries: quercetin as a pesticide, irones as a cosmetic ingredient, and nucleic acids for pharmaceutical use. Ultrasonic treatment was used for the encapsulation of quercetin and irones, and a concept for continuous encapsulation in a plug flow reactor was proposed for process intensification. Inline multi-angle light scattering and dynamic light scattering measurements proved effective for real-time monitoring and enabled the replacement of traditional batch measurements. In the pharmaceutical area, mRNA-based therapies require LNP encapsulation to prevent nucleic acid degradation. Plant-based β-sitosterol was used as an alternative helper lipid to cholesterol, resulting in an average particle diameter of 72 nm and an encapsulation efficiency of 91%, comparable to commercial formulations such as the Comirnaty vaccine. Furthermore, a novel process model based on population balances was developed to simulate the entire manufacturing process, from rapid mixing in a T-mixer to particle stabilization via buffer exchange during diafiltration. By applying a quantitative and distinctive model validation workflow, the model was shown to be as accurate and precise as the experimental data, enabling its use as a digital twin for autonomous continuous operation. In summary, this study contributes to reducing the facility footprint and cost of goods through the implementation of continuous processing and model-based control. This approach improves productivity by 20% and reduces process time by a factor of two. Full article

Fermented Miang (Camellia sinensis var. assamica) serves as a valuable source of bioactive polyphenols and probiotic-associated components. This study characterized the catechin composition of fermented Miang extracts and evaluated their antioxidant capacity and suitability for cosmetic formulations. High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis showed that epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) was the predominant catechin (7.00 ± 0.93 mg/g dry weight), followed by catechin (C), epicatechin (EC), epicatechin gallate (ECG), and epigallocatechin (EGC). The extracts remained physically and chemically stable for at least three months under various storage conditions, with the dried extract form offering advantages for handling and formulation. Fermentation duration significantly influenced phenolic accumulation and antioxidant activity, with four-month fermentation showing the highest activity. Prototype cleansing formulations, including transparent/opaque soap bars, liquid soap, and shampoo containing fermented Miang extract, exhibited acceptable physicochemical characteristics and retained antioxidant function. These findings highlight fermented Miang as a promising natural ingredient for antioxidant and probiotic-inspired cosmetic applications. Full article

This study investigates the potential of Fischer–Tropsch (FT) waxes, synthesized from natural gas, as high-performance and sustainable alternatives to conventional ester waxes in cosmetic applications. To evaluate their technical viability, a series of FT waxes with varying hydrocarbon chain lengths were synthesized and characterized. Safety was rigorously assessed through human patch tests and irritation surveys, while sensory attributes, including gloss and transparency, were compared against beeswax and carnauba wax. Furthermore, the impact on the skin barrier was analyzed using Attenuated Total Reflection Fourier Transform Infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy to determine lipid packing characteristics. The results demonstrated that FT waxes possess an excellent safety profile with irritation levels comparable to traditional waxes. Sensory evaluations revealed that adjusting the hydrocarbon chain length allows for precise control over melting points and texture, offering significant formulation flexibility. Crucially, lipid packing analysis indicated that FT waxes promote an orthorhombic organization, effectively mimicking and reinforcing the native crystalline structure of the human skin barrier. These findings conclude that FT waxes provide both superior sensory properties and functional skin-barrier benefits, positioning them as versatile and innovative ingredients for advanced dermo-cosmetic formulations. Full article

Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) plays an important role in skin regeneration and repair by promoting cell proliferation and collagen synthesis. However, its topical application is limited by low stability, susceptibility to degradation, and poor penetration through the stratum corneum due to its hydrophilic nature and relatively large molecular size. Microencapsulation offers a strategy to protect sensitive bioactives and improve their delivery in cosmetic formulations. In this study, EGF was encapsulated in Arabic gum/gelatine A (AG/GE) coacervate microcapsules and incorporated into a hydrating cream. The work extends previous studies using the same microcapsule composition for lipophilic compounds, demonstrating its applicability for a hydrophilic bioactive and highlighting the versatility of the encapsulation platform. The resulting microcapsules exhibited spherical, multinucleated morphology with an encapsulation efficiency of 78.8 + 1.0%. Although diffusion of microencapsulated EGF in the cream could not be directly determined, the formulation showed trends towards improvement in several skin parameters during the volunteer evaluation, including reduction in surface spots (31%), brown spots (21%) and pore visibility (10%), and improved texture (22%). A 25% decrease in transepidermal water loss and a 33% increase in elasticity suggested improved skin barrier function. Volunteers reported high acceptance regarding non-irritancy, texture, and sensory experience. Full article