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Cosmetics
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Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients
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Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients

A special issue of Cosmetics (ISSN 2079-9284). This special issue belongs to the section "Cosmetic Formulations".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (31 December 2025) | Viewed by 14199

Special Issue Editors

Prof. Dr. Jing Wang

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
School of Chemical and Material Engineering, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, China
Interests: natural cosmetics ingredients; synthetic cosmetics ingredients; encapsulation and transdermal delivery; skin care; hair care; colloids and emulsions
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals
Prof. Dr. Zhong Liu

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
College of Life Science and Technology, Jinan University, Guangzhou 510632, China
Interests: functional cosmetics; targeted drugs; inflammation and autoimmune diseases
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Cosmetics, initially associated with altering one’s appearance, have evolved beyond their traditional beauty role to encompass skin-care and the treatment of various skin conditions. With the rise in consumer preferences for novel ingredients with various bioactivities, researchers are actively exploring the development of functional molecules, including synthetic molecules, natural molecules and bio-derived molecules, and they are also exploring the skin-care and hair-care properties of these substances. Additionally, delivery systems of the functional molecules, such as liposomes, nanolipid, noisomes and other novel emulsions, have been investigated and proven to be more efficient than conventional formulations.

For this Special Issue, we invite researchers to provide original research articles that report on the development and production of novel functional molecules such as synthetic molecules, natural compounds, products from microorganisms, or substances derived from these sources for potential cosmetic applications. In addition, articles reporting on the encapsulation and delivery technologies of the functional molecules for cosmetic formulation applications can be also submitted. We also invite the submission of biological properties and clinical studies demonstrating skin or hair-care applications and the related molecule mechanisms of these functional ingredients. Review articles discussing the current state of the art in the field of functional molecules for cosmetic applications are also welcome.

You may choose our Joint Special Issue in Molecules.

Prof. Dr. Jing Wang
Prof. Dr. Zhong Liu
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 250 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for assessment.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Cosmetics is an international peer-reviewed open access semimonthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 1800 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • synthetic molecules
  • plant extracts
  • natural compounds
  • biotech-derived molecules
  • natural-derived molecules
  • fermentation-derived ingredients
  • biological activity
  • cosmetics
  • encapsulation and delivery technologies of ingredients
  • skin-care
  • hair-care

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Related Special Issue

Published Papers (6 papers)

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Research

16 pages, 5590 KB  
Article
Nanoemulsions Using Sustainable NaDES-Based Tobacco Waste Extracts for Cosmetic Applications
by Mariana Leal, Florencia María Correa Uriburu, María Inés Isla, Francisco Paiva Machado, Bruna Nascimento Flexa, Mikaela Amaral Ferreira, Leandro Machado Rocha, María Alejandra Moreno, Caio Pinho Fernandes and Iris Catiana Zampini
Cosmetics 2026, 13(2), 51; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13020051 - 25 Feb 2026
Viewed by 402
Abstract
Demand for cosmetics based on green production and the circular economy is growing. The inflorescences and apical leaves of Nicotiana tabacum (tobacco) after blunting, deflowering, or topping are considered pre-harvest waste biomass. Using green and ecofriendly solvents such as natural deep eutectic solvents [...] Read more.
Demand for cosmetics based on green production and the circular economy is growing. The inflorescences and apical leaves of Nicotiana tabacum (tobacco) after blunting, deflowering, or topping are considered pre-harvest waste biomass. Using green and ecofriendly solvents such as natural deep eutectic solvents (NaDESs) offers a sustainable way to make use of this biomass for incorporation in cosmetic formulations. The inflorescence and apical leaves of tobacco var Virginia were therefore dried, powdered, and extracted using a NaDES composed of choline-chloride, urea, and distilled water (NaDES CU). The resulting inflorescence and apical leaves extracts showed high concentrations of phenolic compounds and flavonoids. Both extracts demonstrated significant biological activity and effectively inhibited tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin regulation and skin aging (IC50 = 50 μg GAE/mL), as well as showing antioxidant capacity (ABTS•+; SC50 =1.7–7 μg GAE/mL). Ten nanoemulsions containing tobacco leaf- and inflorescence extract-based NaDES CU, formulated using different polysorbates, deionized water and glycerin, were produced. A low-energy emulsification technique at a constant temperature was applied. Considering the droplet size and polydispersity index, only the nanoemulsions containing inflorescence and leaf extracts based on NaDES CU and containing 5% or 10% polysorbate 85 were selected for further stability assessment and characterization. This study highlights the potential of NaDES combined with tobacco waste extracts as a sustainable and non-toxic ingredient in anti-aging and antioxidant cosmetics. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients)
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32 pages, 5730 KB  
Article
Anti-Aging and Wound Healing Activity of Cashew Apple (Anacardium occidentale) Extract and Its Liposomal Development to Enhance Skin Permeability and Ascorbic Acid Stability
by Narumon Changsan, Apichart Atipairin, Poowadon Muenraya, Pajaree Sakdiset, Titpawan Nakpheng, Teerapol Srichana, Rutthapol Sritharadol, Neelam Balekar, Wirot Chanthorn, Nawattakorn Nualsri, Mapasawan Lewviriyakun and Somchai Sawatdee
Cosmetics 2025, 12(6), 246; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12060246 - 5 Nov 2025
Viewed by 3124
Abstract
The cashew apple (Anacardium occidentale L.) is rich in antioxidant bioactive constituents that have anti-aging and wound healing properties. The objective of this study is to evaluate the biological activities of cashew apple extract (CAE) and to improve the issue involving the [...] Read more.
The cashew apple (Anacardium occidentale L.) is rich in antioxidant bioactive constituents that have anti-aging and wound healing properties. The objective of this study is to evaluate the biological activities of cashew apple extract (CAE) and to improve the issue involving the instability of ascorbic acid, the principal active compound, by encapsulating the extract in liposomes in order to enhance its stability and skin permeation for cosmetic applications. CAE was obtained from fresh cashew apple via ethanol maceration, solvent evaporation, and freeze-drying. Ascorbic acid content, total phenolic content (TPC), total flavonoid content (TFC), and total caffeoylquinic acid content (TCQAC) were determined. The ascorbic acid content and its tautomer in the extract were quantified using the LC-MS/MS method. Biological activities, including antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, fibroblast collagen synthesis, cytoprotection against oxidative stress, wound healing, and cytotoxicity, were assessed. CAE was encapsulated in liposomes to enhance the stability of its inherent ascorbic acid and improve its skin in comparison to free-CAE. The CAE and liposomal-CAE were incorporated and formulated into a solution, and their physicochemical stability was assessed after storage. CAE appeared as a brown, viscous liquid with a characteristic sweet, fruity scent. Each gram of CAE contained 0.90 ± 0.05 mg of ascorbic acid, TPC, 81.40 ± 7.14 mg of gallic acid equivalents (GAE), TFC, 3.73 ± 0.30 mg of rutin equivalents (RE), and TCQAC, 4.48 ± 0.05 mg of chlorogenic acid equivalents (CGAE). CAE exhibited antioxidant properties (IC50 = 282.19 ± 11.16 and 963.66 ± 3.95 µg/mL for DPPH and ABTS assay, respectively) and weak anti-tyrosinase activity (IC50 = 4213.77 ± 138.97 µg/mL). It was non-cytotoxic to fibroblast and monocyte cells at a concentration of less than 1 mg/mL. In vitro wound healing assays demonstrated that CAE stimulated collagen production in a dose-dependent manner at CAE concentrations above 250 µg/mL. Additionally, CAE exhibited cytoprotective effects against H2O2-induced oxidative stress and did not induce inflammatory responses in immune cells. The liposomal formulation containing CAE achieved high encapsulation efficiency (79.75–84.55%) based on ascorbic acid content. In skin permeation studies, CAE-loaded liposomes demonstrated an enhancement ratio approximately two-fold greater than that of free-CAE. Stability testing over 3 months showed that the ascorbic acid content in CAE-loaded liposomes remained significantly higher than that in the free-CAE under both refrigerated and long-term conditions (30 °C/75% RH). CAE demonstrated potential anti-aging properties for improving aging skin. Liposomal incorporation markedly improved ascorbic acid stability and skin permeability. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients)
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15 pages, 3084 KB  
Article
Selective Regulatory Effects of Lactobacillus Plantarum Fermented Milk: Enhancing the Growth of Staphylococcus Epidermidis and Inhibiting Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli
by Yajuan Sun, Ying Wang, Zixia Ren, Shasha Wang, Yun Ding, Nan Liu, Cheng Yang and Bingtian Zhao
Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 232; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050232 - 17 Oct 2025
Viewed by 1340
Abstract
To address the limitation of traditional broad-spectrum antimicrobial agents in compromising skin microbiota homeostasis, this study developed Lactobacillus plantarum fermented milk (FM) as an innovative strategy for selectively regulating microbial communities to restore skin microbiota balance. FM was produced through protease hydrolysis in [...] Read more.
To address the limitation of traditional broad-spectrum antimicrobial agents in compromising skin microbiota homeostasis, this study developed Lactobacillus plantarum fermented milk (FM) as an innovative strategy for selectively regulating microbial communities to restore skin microbiota balance. FM was produced through protease hydrolysis in combination with L. plantarum fermentation. Selective antibacterial properties were evaluated via monoculture experiments (Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, and Staphylococcus epidermidis) and pathogen–commensal co-culture systems. It was found that FM can selectively inhibit pathogens (E. coli and S. aureus) and promote the growth of commensal bacteria (S. epidermidis) in monoculture, and can reduce the growth and competitiveness of E. coli and S. aureus while relatively increasing the colony count of S. epidermidis in the co-culture system. Metabolomic profiling was further performed to identify metabolic alterations induced by FM. It was found that FM can activate the pyruvate metabolic node, significantly enhancing the metabolic fluxes of lactic acid, citric acid, and short-chain fatty acids, which triggered the acid stress response of pathogenic bacteria while consuming a considerable amount of energy, attenuating their reproductive capacity without impacting the growth of commensal bacteria. Overall, FM showed selective antimicrobial activity against pathogens (E. coli, and S. aureus) and preservation of commensal S. epidermidis, offering a foundational reference for the development of postbiotics aimed at maintaining cutaneous microbial homeostasis. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients)
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16 pages, 2391 KB  
Article
Extracts from Dark Tea with Dual Effects of Anti-Melanogenesis and Prevention of Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation
by Xiaoxiao Duo, Jingting Wang, Chunxia Wu, Jianming Deng, Yuancheng Huang, Min Yu, Kinka Ri, Guangli Wang and Jing Wang
Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 210; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050210 - 18 Sep 2025
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1758
Abstract
(1) Background: The pursuit of ingredients that possess both anti-melanogenesis and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) prevention effects has become a new research frontier in cosmetics, though there is little work on plant extract-derived ingredients in this direction. (2) Methods: The study involved evaluating the [...] Read more.
(1) Background: The pursuit of ingredients that possess both anti-melanogenesis and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) prevention effects has become a new research frontier in cosmetics, though there is little work on plant extract-derived ingredients in this direction. (2) Methods: The study involved evaluating the impact of dark tea extract on melanin content and tyrosinase activity in B16 cells. Meanwhile, Ultraviolet B (UVB)-irradiated assays were conducted on HaCaT cells to assess the secretion of inflammatory factors (IL-1α and IL-1β) and paracrine melanogenic factors (α-MSH, bFGF, and ET-1). Additionally, we performed quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR) tests to determine whether the signaling pathways of anti-melanogenesis and PIH punctuation are incorrect. (3) Results: The results showed that dark tea extract significantly inhibited melanin content and tyrosinase activity in B16 cells. In HaCaT cells, the extract reduced the secretion of the aforementioned inflammatory and paracrine melanogenic factors, thereby inhibiting PIH. Moreover, the RT-PCR and the Western Blot results indicated that the dark tea extract could inhibit the melanogenesis signaling pathway of α-MSH/MC1R/MITF and their downstream multiple targets of TYRP-1, TYRP-2, and TYR in B16 cells, while it exerted a PIH inhibition effect by downregulating the p38 MAPK/Nrf2/HO-1 signaling pathway. (4) Conclusions: This study suggests that dark tea extract can not only suppress melanogenesis through multiple targets but also can inhibit UVB-induced PIH, hinting at its skin-brightening efficacy as an agent for the restoration of pigmentation disorders. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients)
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14 pages, 665 KB  
Article
Topical Delivery of Calcium Silicate for Nail Health: A Clinical and Experimental Evaluation
by Viktoria Engqvist and Håkan Engqvist
Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 196; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050196 - 9 Sep 2025
Viewed by 3201
Abstract
Silicon (Si) plays a crucial role in maintaining the structural integrity of nails, skin, and hair by supporting collagen synthesis and keratin stability. Despite its recognized benefits, effective topical delivery methods remain underexplored. This study investigates a novel approach using a calcium silicate-based [...] Read more.
Silicon (Si) plays a crucial role in maintaining the structural integrity of nails, skin, and hair by supporting collagen synthesis and keratin stability. Despite its recognized benefits, effective topical delivery methods remain underexplored. This study investigates a novel approach using a calcium silicate-based formulation designed to enhance silicon bioavailability. The research comprises two key components: an in vitro assessment of calcium silicate dissolution and ion release, and a 28-day, single-arm, clinical evaluation of its effects on nail thickness and strength. Ion release studies demonstrated stable dissolution with significant silicon and calcium release. In the clinical study, the mean nail thickness score increased from 1.50 ± 0.51 to 2.09 ± 0.53, corresponding to a 39% mean improvement and nail strength scores improved from 1.50 ± 0.51 to 2.45 ± 0.67, reflecting a 64% average increase over 28 days of application (p < 0.001). The findings support the potential of targeted silicon delivery systems in cosmetic applications, offering an alternative to traditional oral supplementation. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients)
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20 pages, 1185 KB  
Communication
Anti-Aging Potential of Bioactive Peptides Derived from Casein Hydrolyzed with Kiwi Actinidin: Integration of In Silico and In Vitro Study
by Nicolas Caicedo, Lady L. Gamboa, Yhors Ciro, Constain H. Salamanca and Jose Oñate-Garzón
Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 189; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050189 - 1 Sep 2025
Viewed by 2720
Abstract
Background: Skin aging is mainly associated with oxidative stress and enzymatic degradation of collagen and elastin by protease activity. Peptides have antioxidant capacity and inhibitory effects on protease enzymes. Objective: The purpose of this study was to obtain peptides with in vitro anti-aging [...] Read more.
Background: Skin aging is mainly associated with oxidative stress and enzymatic degradation of collagen and elastin by protease activity. Peptides have antioxidant capacity and inhibitory effects on protease enzymes. Objective: The purpose of this study was to obtain peptides with in vitro anti-aging activity from the enzymatic hydrolysis of bovine casein with actinidin, a protease extracted from the green kiwi fruit (Actinidia deliciosa) Methodology: The enzyme actinidin was extracted from the pulp of the kiwi fruit, purified by ion exchange chromatography and characterized by polyacrylamide electrophoresis (SDS-PAGE). Subsequently, the extracted enzyme was used to hydrolyze commercial bovine casein at 37 °C for 30 min, precipitating the peptide fraction with trichloroacetic acid (TCA), and centrifuged. To determine the anti-aging potential of the peptides in vitro, antioxidant activity was evaluated using the ABTS (2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid)) radical. Additionally, the inhibitory capacity of the peptides against collagenase and elastase enzymes was also studied. To complement the in vitro results, the enzymatic hydrolysis of casein with actinidin was simulated. The binding energy (ΔG) of each of the hydrolysates with the collagenase and elastase enzymes was calculated using molecular docking to predict the peptide sequences with the highest probability of interaction. Results: Actinidin was extracted and purified exhibiting a molecular weight close to 27 kDa. The enzyme hydrolyzed the substrate by 91.6%, and the resulting hydrolysates showed moderate in vitro anti-aging activity: antioxidant (17.5%), anticollagenase (18.55%), and antielastase (28.6%). In silico results revealed 66 peptide sequences of which 30.3% consisted of 4–8 amino acids, a suitable size to facilitate interaction with structural targets. The sequences with the highest affinity were FALPQYLK and VIPYVRYL for collagenase and elastase, respectively. Conclusions: Despite the modest inhibition values, the use of a fruit-derived enzyme and a food-grade substrate is in line with current trends in sustainable and natural cosmetics. These findings highlight the great potential for laying the groundwork for future research into actinidin-derived peptides as multifunctional and eco-conscious ingredients for the development of next-generation anti-aging formulations. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Functional Molecules as Novel Cosmetic Ingredients)
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