Lipids in Cosmetics

A special issue of Cosmetics (ISSN 2079-9284). This special issue belongs to the section "Cosmetic Formulations".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: 31 October 2026 | Viewed by 4739

Special Issue Editor


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Guest Editor
1. ICOA UMR CRNS 7311, Universite d’Orléans, Rue de Chartres, BP 6759, 45067 Orléans Cedex 2, France
2. Chaire de Cosmétologie, AgroParisTech, 10 Rue Léonard de Vinci, 45100 Orléans, France
3. INRAE, AgroParisTech, UMR Micalis, Université Paris-Saclay, 78350 Jouy-en-Josas, France
Interests: cosmetics; carbohydrates; enzymes; glycosidases
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Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Innovation and science are at the core of today's cosmetics industry, while we also strive to preserve long-established values such as safety, efficacy, and well-being. At the same time, new challenges have emerged, including naturalness, durability, inclusiveness, and customization. Lipids play a pivotal role in this transformation: essential to the skin's structure and protection, they are central to modern formulations, combining biological efficacy with environmental responsibility.

Customers are increasingly seeking transparency and ethical solutions. They want to understand the composition and origin of the products they purchase and be assured of their safety for both health and the environment. In parallel, demand is rising for traceability and credible certifications. The sensory experience remains fundamental—shaping consumer preference, fostering loyalty, and responding to the expectations of an ever more informed public. As such, today's cosmetics are formulated at the crossroads of scientific expertise, ethical commitment, and sensory experience.

With this context in mind, the Lipids & Cosmetics 2026 congress (Lipids and Cosmetics 2026—Cosmetics MDPI) will be organized around six themes, highlighting lipids and their applications in the following:

  • Their biological properties;
  • Development of ingredients and raw material supply chains;
  • Formulation and sensory experience;
  • Processes and design;
  • Lipid analysis and characterization of their effects.

Prof. Dr. Richard Daniellou
Guest Editor

Manuscript Submission Information

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Keywords

  • biological properties
  • ingredients
  • formulation
  • lipid analysis

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Published Papers (3 papers)

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Research

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26 pages, 1843 KB  
Article
Development and Physicochemical Characterization of an Argan–Castor Oil O/W Emulsion for Cosmetic Applications
by Carmen-Elisabeta Manea, Carmen-Marinela Mihăilescu, Mirela Antonela Mihăilă, Roxana Colette Sandulovici, Daniel Cord, Mirela Claudia Rîmbu, Florin Adrian Marin, Adina Boldeiu, Vasilica Țucureanu, Adina Turcu-Știolică, Manuel Ovidiu Amzoiu, Elena Truță and Mona Luciana Gălățanu
Cosmetics 2026, 13(2), 78; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13020078 - 20 Mar 2026
Viewed by 745
Abstract
The incorporation of plant-derived oils into cosmetic formulations has attracted increasing interest due to their natural origin, skin compatibility, and multifunctional formulation roles. Argan and castor oils are widely used in cosmetic products as emollient lipid components with intrinsic antioxidant properties. However, limited [...] Read more.
The incorporation of plant-derived oils into cosmetic formulations has attracted increasing interest due to their natural origin, skin compatibility, and multifunctional formulation roles. Argan and castor oils are widely used in cosmetic products as emollient lipid components with intrinsic antioxidant properties. However, limited studies have systematically evaluated the physicochemical stability and antioxidant performance of emulsions combining these two oils. The aim of this study was to develop and comprehensively characterize a stable oil-in-water (O/W) cosmetic emulsion based on argan and castor oils using a natural non-ionic emulsifier (C14–22 Alcohol (and) C12–20 Alkyl Glucoside). Particular emphasis was placed on formulation stability, as it represents a critical prerequisite for further product evaluation. Stability was investigated through thermal stress testing (4–37 °C), centrifugation assays, droplet size analysis, and zeta potential measurements. Complementary physicochemical and structural characterization was performed using rheological analysis and Fourier transform infrared (FT-IR) spectroscopy. The formulated emulsion exhibited good physical stability with no phase separation under the tested conditions, a skin-compatible pH, a uniform droplet size distribution (4.15 ± 0.68 µm), and pseudoplastic, moderately thixotropic rheological behavior. Antioxidant capacity was assessed using the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging assay, yielding an IC50 value of 19.21 ± 1.02 mg/mL. Overall, this study provides a formulation-oriented framework for the development and evaluation of stable natural oil-based O/W emulsions intended for cosmetic applications, supporting future optimization and biological validation. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Lipids in Cosmetics)
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17 pages, 1585 KB  
Article
Systemic Lipid Dysregulation in Low-Hydration Skin: A Multi-Dimensional Analysis
by Yumei Fan, Zheng Wang and Peixue Ling
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 4; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010004 - 25 Dec 2025
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1311
Abstract
Skin hydration is a key indicator of skin health and stratum corneum (SC) integrity, yet its relationship with multi-dimensional physiological parameters remains incompletely understood. This study aimed to investigate the association between facial skin hydration and key physiological parameters and explored the lipidomic [...] Read more.
Skin hydration is a key indicator of skin health and stratum corneum (SC) integrity, yet its relationship with multi-dimensional physiological parameters remains incompletely understood. This study aimed to investigate the association between facial skin hydration and key physiological parameters and explored the lipidomic differences between individuals with high and low hydration levels. We enrolled 60 healthy Chinese women (aged 30–55), divided into a low-hydration (LH, n = 11) group and a high-hydration (HH, n = 19) group based on Corneometer measurements. An integrated methodology was employed, including confocal Raman spectroscopy, multiphoton laser tomography, biophysical instruments, and untargeted lipidomics. Our results demonstrated a positive correlation between skin hydration and SC thickness, ceramides, and lactate levels. However, no significant correlation was identified in relation to wrinkles, color, or elasticity. The lipidomic analysis revealed eighty-three significantly upregulated lipids (VIP > 1.0, p < 0.05) in LH skin, among which ten lipids, including nine ceramides, exhibited strong negative correlations with hydration (|r| > 0.8, p < 0.05). These lipids were predominantly associated with sphingolipid and triacylglycerol metabolic pathways. Together, our findings suggest that low-hydration skin is characterized by systemic lipidomic dysregulation, rather than a deficiency of individual lipids. These findings represent novel insights into the mechanisms underlying skin hydration and identify potential therapeutic targets for addressing skin dryness and aging. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Lipids in Cosmetics)
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Review

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16 pages, 1035 KB  
Review
Palmitoleic (16:1 n−7) Acid and Skin Health: Functional Roles and Opportunities for Topical and Oral Product Applications
by Manuel Oliveira, Xiaoying Zhou, Mona Correa, Dino Athanasiadis, Casey Lippmeier, Leon Parker, Walter Rakitsky and Frédéric Destaillats
Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 45; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010045 - 17 Feb 2026
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1217
Abstract
Human skin lipids form interconnected pools that support barrier integrity, immune balance, and interactions with the environment. The stratum corneum barrier is built from an ordered mix of ceramides, cholesterol, and long-chain free fatty acids, while sebaceous lipids and their breakdown products shape [...] Read more.
Human skin lipids form interconnected pools that support barrier integrity, immune balance, and interactions with the environment. The stratum corneum barrier is built from an ordered mix of ceramides, cholesterol, and long-chain free fatty acids, while sebaceous lipids and their breakdown products shape surface properties and the skin microbiome. Hexadecenoic fatty acids are key at this interface. Palmitoleic acid (cis-9 16:1; 16:1 n−7, POA) is enriched in viable epidermis and remains detectable in stratum corneum lipids, whereas its isomer sapienic acid (cis-6 16:1; 16:1 n−10) predominates in human sebum. Together, they influence membrane organization, lipid fluidity, and antimicrobial defense. This mini-review outlines skin lipid composition and function with a focus on POA and then summarizes experimental and preclinical topical evidence suggesting antimicrobial effects, enhanced lubrication properties, protection from oxidative and ultraviolet B (UVB) injury, and enhanced wound repair. It also reviews early clinical findings from oral POA supplementation trials reporting improved hydration, barrier function, and markers of photo-oxidative aging, with exploratory signals for acne in a multi-nutrient regimen. Major POA sources include sea buckthorn pulp oil, macadamia and avocado oils, selected marine oils, ruminant fats, and emerging fermentation-derived products. Robust mechanistic human studies are still needed to define optimal dosing, formulations, and indications. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Lipids in Cosmetics)
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