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Bioengineering
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Biomechanics and Sports Medicine in Sport Climbing, Featuring Selected Contributions...
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Biomechanics and Sports Medicine in Sport Climbing, Featuring Selected Contributions Presented at the 6th IRCRA Congress 2023

A special issue of Bioengineering (ISSN 2306-5354). This special issue belongs to the section "Biomechanics and Sports Medicine".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (31 March 2024) | Viewed by 2374

Special Issue Editors

Dr. Peter Wolf

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Guest Editor
Department of Health Sciences and Technology, ETH University, 8092 Zurich, Switzerland
Interests: biomechanics; sports engineering; rehabilitation robotics
Dr. Michael Moreno

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Guest Editor
Department of Biomedical Engineering, Texas A&M University, College Station, TX 77843-3120, USA
Interests: biomechanics; biomechanical engineering
Prof. Dr. Claudia Augste

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Guest Editor
Institute of Sport Science, Augsburg University, 86159 Augsburg, Germany
Interests: motor learning; performance assessment; evaluation of training interventions
Dr. Gudmund Grønhaug

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Guest Editor
Department of Sport, Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, Campus Sogndal, 6856 Sogndal, Norway
Interests: sports medicine; physiotherapy
Dr. Alessandro Colombo

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Guest Editor
Department of Electronics and Information, Politecnico di Milano, 20133 Milano, Italy
Interests: traffic control and coordination
Prof. Dr. Franz Konstantin Fuss

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Guest Editor
Faculty of Engineering Science, University of Bayreuth, 95447 Bayreuth, Germany
Interests: sports engineering; medical engineering

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

The ever-increasing number of climbing gyms worldwide reflects the enthusiasm for climbing as a recreational sport. Competitive climbing is also attracting more and more attention, as demonstrated by its inclusion as an Olympic sport for the first time in Tokyo. At the same time, competitive climbing is undergoing certain changes to boost its media appeal. For instance, the previously smaller holds in lead climbing and bouldering are increasingly supplemented by larger volumes, which require movement sequences that are more dynamic, and thus more spectacular, for spectators. For athletes and coaches, these changes raise the question of which biomechanical, physiological, and psychological prerequisites, as well as which training measures, enable podium finishes in competitive climbing. Evidence-based training measures are also of interest to recreational athletes, and dealing with injuries is not only an issue for climbers and physicians but also for climbing gym operators and insurance companies.

This Special Issue aims to present current research in the field of sport climbing that is beneficial to the health and performance development of athletes or to the long-term success of the sport itself. This Special Issue also includes, but is not limited to, contributions presented at the 6th IRCRA (International Rock Climbing Research Association) Conference held in Bern, Switzerland, 7–10 August, 2023.

Potential topics include, but are not limited to:

  • Biomechanical analysis of bouldering, climbing, or speed climbing;
  • Climbing-related injuries and their prevention;
  • Evaluation of training interventions;
  • Assessment of athlete health and safety measures;
  • Innovative techniques for data acquisition and processing;
  • Climbing physiology;
  • Research on the neuromotorics, tactics, and psychology of climbing;
  • Novel performance assessment methods and measurements based on biomechanical and physiological data, and the associated processing of these biosignals.

Dr. Peter Wolf
Dr. Michael Moreno
Prof. Dr. Claudia Augste
Dr. Gudmund Grønhaug
Dr. Alessandro Colombo
Prof. Dr. Franz Konstantin Fuss
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Bioengineering is an international peer-reviewed open access monthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 2700 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • biomechanics
  • sports medicine
  • climbing
  • sports engineering

Published Papers (3 papers)

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Research

16 pages, 1642 KiB  
Article
Assessment of Microvascular Hemodynamic Adaptations in Finger Flexors of Climbers
by Blai Ferrer-Uris, Albert Busquets, Faruk Beslija and Turgut Durduran
Bioengineering 2024, 11(4), 401; https://doi.org/10.3390/bioengineering11040401 - 19 Apr 2024
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Abstract
Climbing performance is greatly dependent on the endurance of the finger flexors which, in turn, depends on the ability to deliver and use oxygen within the muscle. Near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS) and diffuse correlation spectroscopy (DCS) have provided new possibilities to explore these phenomena [...] Read more.
Climbing performance is greatly dependent on the endurance of the finger flexors which, in turn, depends on the ability to deliver and use oxygen within the muscle. Near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS) and diffuse correlation spectroscopy (DCS) have provided new possibilities to explore these phenomena in the microvascular environment. The aim of the present study was to explore climbing-related microvascular adaptations through the comparison of the oxygen concentration and hemodynamics of the forearm between climbers and non-climber active individuals during a vascular occlusion test (VOT). Seventeen climbers and fifteen non-climbers joined the study. Through NIRS and DCS, the oxyhemoglobin (O2Hb) and deoxyhemoglobin (HHb) concentrations, tissue saturation index (TSI), and blood flow index (BFI) were obtained from the flexor digitorum profundus during the VOT. During the reactive hyperemia, climbers presented greater blood flow slopes (p = 0.043, d = 0.573), as well as greater O2Hb maximum values (p = 0.001, d = 1.263) and HHb minimum values (p = 0.009, d = 0.998), than non-climbers. The superior hemodynamics presented by climbers could indicate potential training-induced structural and functional adaptations that could enhance oxygen transportation to the muscle, and thus enhance muscle endurance and climbing performance. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Biomechanics and Sports Medicine in Sport Climbing, Featuring Selected Contributions Presented at the 6th IRCRA Congress 2023)
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23 pages, 9165 KiB  
Article
Motion Analysis of the Wrist and Finger Joints in Sport Climbing
by Gabriella Fischer, Micha Schneeberger, Stefan Andreas Petter, Anne-Gita Scheibler, Peter Wolf, Maurizio Calcagni, Andreas Schweizer and Lisa Reissner
Bioengineering 2024, 11(4), 370; https://doi.org/10.3390/bioengineering11040370 - 12 Apr 2024
Viewed by 490
Abstract
Climbing is a fast-growing sport, with one of the most common injuries being a rupture of the finger flexor tendon pulley. The strain on pulleys increases as finger joints flex. However, to our knowledge, no study has conducted a kinematic analysis of climbers’ [...] Read more.
Climbing is a fast-growing sport, with one of the most common injuries being a rupture of the finger flexor tendon pulley. The strain on pulleys increases as finger joints flex. However, to our knowledge, no study has conducted a kinematic analysis of climbers’ fingers. Thus, this study aimed to examine finger kinematics during typical climbing tasks. Eleven elite climbers performed a sequence of four climbing moves, which were recorded by an optical motion capture system. Participants used crimp, half-crimp, and open-hand grips for three trials each, with the fourth condition involving campusing using any grip except crimp. Mean proximal interphalangeal joint (PIP) flexion during the holding phase was 87° (SD 12°), 70° (14°) and 39° (27°) for the crimp, half-crimp and open-hand grip, respectively. Hence, inter-individual PIP flexion ranges overlap between different gripping conditions. Two different movement patterns emerged in the open-hand grip, possibly influenced by the use of the little finger, leading to varying degrees of flexion in the middle and ring fingers. Avoiding little finger usage in the open-hand grip may reduce load during pulley rupture rehabilitation. The implications of PIP joint angle variability on individual pulley injury risk or prevention warrant further investigation. Motion capture proved effective for understanding finger kinematics during climbing and could guide future studies on pulley injury risk factors. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Biomechanics and Sports Medicine in Sport Climbing, Featuring Selected Contributions Presented at the 6th IRCRA Congress 2023)
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16 pages, 1181 KiB  
Article
Pull-Up Performance Is Affected Differently by the Muscle Contraction Regimens Practiced during Training among Climbers
by Laurent Vigouroux and Marine Devise
Bioengineering 2024, 11(1), 85; https://doi.org/10.3390/bioengineering11010085 - 17 Jan 2024
Viewed by 1101
Abstract
Sport climbing performance is highly related to upper limb strength and endurance. Although finger-specific methods are widely analyzed in the literature, no study has yet quantified the effects of arm-specific training. This study aims to compare the effects of three types of training [...] Read more.
Sport climbing performance is highly related to upper limb strength and endurance. Although finger-specific methods are widely analyzed in the literature, no study has yet quantified the effects of arm-specific training. This study aims to compare the effects of three types of training involving different muscle contraction regimens on climbers’ pull-up capabilities. Thirty advanced to high-elite climbers were randomly divided into four groups: eccentric (ECC; n = 8), isometric (ISO; n = 7), plyometric (PLYO; n = 6), and no specific training (CTRL; n = 9), and they participated in a 5-week training, twice a week, focusing on pull-ups on hangboard. Pre- and post-training assessments were conducted using a force-sensing hangboard, analyzing force, velocity, power, and muscle work during three pull-up exercises: pull-ups at body weight under different conditions, incremental weighted pull-ups, and an exhaustion test. The CTRL group showed no change. Maximum strength improved in all three training groups (from +2.2 ± 3.6% to +5.0 ± 2.4%; p < 0.001); velocity variables enhanced in the ECC and PLYO groups (from +5.7 ± 7.4 to +28.7 ± 42%; p < 0.05), resulting in greater power; amplitude increased in the ECC group; and muscle work increased in the PLYO group (+21.9 ± 16.6%; p = 0.015). A 5-week training period effectively enhanced arm performance, but outcomes were influenced by the chosen muscle contraction regimens and initial individual characteristics. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Biomechanics and Sports Medicine in Sport Climbing, Featuring Selected Contributions Presented at the 6th IRCRA Congress 2023)
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