Flipping the Tortilla: Social-Ecological Innovations and Traditional Ecological Knowledge for More Sustainable Agri-Food Systems in Spain
Abstract
:1. Introduction
2. Background: The Agri-food System in Spain
3. Methods
3.1. Studied Areas
3.2. Sampling Design
3.3. Data Collection and Analysis
4. Results
4.1. Main Characteristics of Agri-Food Initiatives
4.2. The Evolution of the Agri-Food Initiatives
4.2.1. Underlying Motivations (Seeding and Germination Phase)
- (a)
- 2008 financial crisis: the crisis is mentioned as a trigger for the creation of 3 seeds. On the one hand, it generated severe unemployment in Spain, enabling a skilled population with plenty of available time to invest in new projects, usually requiring a reinvention of their previous knowledge. On the other hand, according to the intervieewes, the crisis also fostered a growing interest for local consumption, a more collaborative spirit in the agro-alimentary sector, as well as a return to the countryside (i.e., an increased appreciation for the rural areas and migrations of young people from the city to small villages, which are strongly related to primary production processes). However, despite the crisis being mentioned as a factor that contributed to the foundation of some seeds, it has also been mentioned as a barrier for the consolidation of some seeds.
- (b)
- Growing interest in gastronomy: 2 of the seeds mentioned that food and cooking have become really popular, which is reflected through the variety of social media posts, gastronomy societies and TV shows around food, as well as the emergence of a new generation of recognized vanguardist chefs. However, these initiatives perceive that while there is big interest in the vanguard cuisine, there is also a tiredness with this kind of cuisine and a return to the traditional cuisine:“... a rising interest of the people for gastronomy. In Spain, we lived this effervescence of the vanguard cuisine. But then there came a moment when the people got tired of it and needed to comeback to something more authentic and familiar.”[Interview 3]
- (c)
- Favorable legislation and administrative support by public authorities: 3 of the seeds mentioned legislation favoring their initiatives and administrative support from public authorities as important enabling conditions to start and get legally consolidated.
- (d)
- Legitimated leader: In one case, the agroecological parc of Gallecs, the presence of a leading figure originating from the territory was essential for legitimization of the initiative’s actions among the local community.
4.2.2. Barriers and Enablers (Growth Phase)
Barriers
- (a)
- Existing legislation: A barrier mentioned by half of all initiatives is that of existing legislation that either directly restricts the impact of the initiatives or is contradictory. One example of a legal barrier is that of public procurement that must be price competitive, but not quality oriented. For example, in the case of Menjadors Ecològics, this restricts the initiative’s work when aiming to change school menus towards more sustainable and healthy options. Another example are the legal requirements for seed production that are designed for large seed companies, which contradicts legislation on access and benefit sharing for the holders of indigenous and local knowledge.
- (b)
- Professionalization: A common barrier is professionalizing the initiative and making a living from their activity (6 seeds). This barrier is often found in combination with a lack of funding and/or the difficulty to juggle both family and professional life. It is particularly challenging in times of crisis.
- (c)
- Different motivations by members: Differing opinions can cause conflicts and result in a barrier for the initiative (3 seeds). For example, some members are passionate about their work and perform it despite having a low or no salary at all, whereas others see it more as their work and are not willing to fully commit without financial compensation.
- (d)
- Lack of business experience: For two initiatives among the social entrepreneurs, the lack of experience in business development resulted in problems, as they have to learn along the way and are more likely to make mistakes.
- (e)
- Society reserved towards new ideas and tastes: Among the gastronomic initiatives, two have stated that they have encountered difficulties because the majority of society does not easily accept new ideas and tastes.
- (f)
- Rivalry and mistrust with other initiatives: Two seed initiatives mention that rivalry and mistrust with other initiatives or institutions of the same sector is hindering their work. This barrier is linked to other networks in place that, if cooperation is not successful, can result in competition.
- (g)
- Commercialization of the concept “organic”: Although some initiatives consider that the growing interest in local and organic food has enabled their foundation, others suspect the commercialization of the concept “organic” and “local varieties” from both supermarkets and restaurants:“When we started in the villages, nobody was interested. We organized samples because we went there, but the municipalities ignored us. But now they call us and want us to do samples of tomatoes, super luxury restaurants call us and want local tomato varieties. […] Suddenly they value it as something that differentiates, that gives additional value. Suddenly, it makes sense in their discourse. […] But we sometimes mistrust this, because there could be different trends in the future […] In other words, we cannot trust this trend.”[Interview 2]
Enablers
- (a)
- Networking and collaboration: the importance of getting support from a wider net of agri-food practitioners as well as from the surrounding communities were important aspects mentioned by 5 of the seeds.
- (b)
- Adaptability: Some (4) initiatives highlight the need to be able to adapt. Specifically, they refer to the ability of the initiatives to analyze their activities and quickly change strategy or organizational structure if what they do is not working.
- (c)
- Official external recognition: All initiatives whose main activity is the preparation of food stated that the official external recognition in the form of certificates, awards or media attention can also enhance their success. These signal to consumers high quality and safety of the food.
- (d)
- Marketing strategies: For three of the production related initiatives, novel and successful marketing strategies significantly fostered their growth. Such strategies include communicating to the consumers the additional social and environmental value of their product or commercialization model.
- (e)
- Dedicated team: Two seed initiatives also highlight the importance of having a dedicated team that is committed to their goals despite difficulties and shortage of money. This is important to keep the initiative going especially in tough times.
- (f)
- Growing interest in food: Finally, one initiative, La Cuina a Sils, perceived the growing interest in food as a consolidating factor.
- (g)
- Availability of intellectual and economic resources: 7 of the 12 seeds mentioned that having extensive previous knowledge of the work area (e.g., through studies identifying local needs or the founder having extensive knowledge of the context) and access to funding were important. Regarding funding, the case of Veta la Palma is interesting, who highlights the availability of large financial resources and being a consolidated company as the main enabling factor to create an innovative and sustainable seed, which was known not to be profitable in the short term.
4.2.3. Underlying Values Once the Initiatives Have Grown
- Connection between local production and consumption and between people, their food and each other (7 out of 12 interviewees), “[we value] the capacity of the cuisine to connect. For example, for our activities, we always put long tables where everybody sits together.” [Interview 3]
- environmentally friendly production (6 out of 12 interviewees), “producing fish, in these physical conditions and in turn, contributing to improve the environment” [Interview 7]
- and the preservation of traditional consumption patterns (6 out of 12 interviewees), “I create a demand for a product that was disappearing. I safeguard the traditional cuisine to promote a diversification and maintenance of local varieties.” [Interview 3]
- dynamizes rural areas (4 out of 12 interviewees), “our main goal is to dynamize rural areas through the agrarian sector by fostering sustainable practices that promote agricultural landscapes, the participation by the community. This is a way to empower the local communities and establish urban-rural relationships.” [Interview 1]
- places value on food producers (7 out of 12 interviewees), “We are placing value on activities that the farmer’s life comprises—we are placing value on it, since a great majority [of the population] does not do [value] it” [Interview 6]”
- promotes human health (5 out of 12 interviewees), “We recover the Mediterranean diet because it is a balanced diet” [Interview 12].
- and is based on natural products (3 out of 12 interviewees) instead of processed convenience food that aims at optimizing the ease of consumption, “healthy, natural products, less altered, more nurturing. Because nowadays there are many products with empty nutrients.” [Interview 5]
“A greater appreciation and respect for the traditional cuisine and for its products. A disposition/willingness of the consumer to search for and pay the local product. If it is more expensive, I am willing to pay more, as I value it. It’s an appreciation.”[Interview 3]
4.3. TAeK-Driven Innovation in Local Agri-Food Systems From Farm-To-Fork
4.3.1. On Farm: Maintaining Agrobiodiversity and an Opportunity for Social Inclusion
“they [seed varieties] have all the history of selection and they can still be adapted to new necessities. Those varieties have a large genetic diversity/richness.”[Interview 2]
“Apply all these seed varieties and the traditional knowledge that we have collected to agriculture so that it makes sense at present. Adapt it… select it for the necessities we have today. A mix of the legacy that we have collected, but also using it without leaving it [the knowledge and the seeds] static.”[Interview 2]
“We import from here the knowledge that the people have and their capacity concerning the activities related to aquaculture [..] We use people for labor that are already familiar, if not with the same, with similar activities [...] we make people see that the knowledge they are holding, fishing knowledge, how to braid nets, knowledge of whatever, really can be applied e.g., within aquaculture. If traditional fishing has been in detriment due to the changes in the river, we can still grow/cultivate fish. And we can grow them in the same environment, with good, reasonable principles and moreover, we can grow them using ancestral knowledge.”[Interview 7]
“It is an innovation to consider the rural environment as a transversal space were a lot of things can be addressed, from producing and safeguarding traditional varieties to being a socially inclusive space. [...] Because of the masculinization of rural environments we want a high representation of women and give them their own space.”[Interview 1]
“We drive educational processes in rural environments, education of popular culture and traditional knowledge. [...] It’s very innovative to take a stance for feminism. It’s not usual in the rural environment.”[Interview 6]
4.3.2. To Fork: Innovating Marketing, Culinary Knowledge and Taste Preferences, and ‘Espigar’
“The fact that last year, 10 tons of vegetables remained in the Maresme region and were distributed to schools less than 10 km away, that’s an impact [...] and also, that the farmers have a guarantee for a large share of their annual harvest”[Interview 12]
“Of course, at school, in the canteen, when you want to change tastes [it is difficult], people are not used to the taste of, for example, beetroot.”[Interview 12]
“It’s interesting to work with schools, if the children like the food, they will ask their parents to cook it.”[Interview 12]
“[...] such an innovative product in the Andalusian diet or the Mediterranean gastronomy is becoming a proper product of the diet.”[Interview 5]
“With phytoplankton we are promoting/fostering the consumption of a species with a very high reproduction rate”[Interview 4]
“In the beginning, some people were saying: Look at him. What does he try to set up with marine ingredients, here where we have such good fried fish and seafood dishes? What does he pretend to innovate?”[Interview 4]
“By gleaning you solve the problem of food waste on the field. Until now, primary products were not recovered from fields.”[Interview 11]
5. Discussion
5.1. Patterns of the Emergence and Development of the Agri-Food Initiatives
5.2. Overcoming Barriers and Leveraging Opportunities for Scaling the Impact of Agri-Food Initiatives for Sustainable Transformations of the Agri-Food System
5.2.1. Scaling Deep: Changing Agri-Food Related Values
5.2.2. Scaling Out: Expanding the Impact of Local Agri-Food Initiatives
5.2.3. Scaling Up: Changing Existing Legislation in Agri-Food Systems
5.3. TAeK-Driven Innovation
Interdependencies between Farm and Fork TAek
6. Conclusion
Supplementary Materials
Author Contributions
Funding
Acknowledgments
Conflicts of Interest
References
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Motivation Social-ecological values Interest in gastronomy Heritage Expand the business | Driving Factors 2008 financial crisis Growing interest in gastronomy Favorable legislation and administrative support by public authorities Legitimated leader |
Barriers to growth Existing legislation Professionalization Different attitudes and motivations towards the initiative Lack of business experience Society reserved towards new ideas and tastes Rivalry and mistrust with other initiatives Commercialization of the concept of ‘organic’ | Enablers Networking and collaboration Adaptability Official external recognition Marketing strategies Dedicated team Growing interest in food Availability of intellectual and economic resources |
Initiative | Stage | Innovative Feature | Link to TAeK |
---|---|---|---|
AgroLab | Farm | Offers practice-oriented agricultural training for people interested in working within agriculture, as a new way of integrating people at risk of social exclusion to the labor market and establishing urban-rural connections. | Hybridizes different types of knowledge and recovers traditional farming techniques when useful. |
Asociación La Troje | Farm | Meets the loss of agrobiodiversity, specifically of local seed varieties in Madrid and fosters the reappraisal and intergenerational transmission of traditional knowledge. | Collects old seed varieties and the associated traditional knowledge. |
Club Gastronómico KM0 | Fork | Promotes local consumption by establishing alliances between small-scale farmers and consumers; safeguarding traditional recipes and disseminating the local culinary culture. Highlights the role of women in the intergenerational transmission of culinary knowledge. Fosters employment for women at risk of social exclusion by making use of their traditional culinary knowledge. | Safeguards traditional recipes and sharing the local culinary culture. |
Aponiente | Fork | A Michelin 3-stars seafood restaurant. The plates served are based on discarded fish and less valued species and phytoplankton. It shows alternatives to the consumption of big species. | Offers modern versions of traditional plates and tastes. |
Suralgas | Fork | Harvests algae for human consumption incorporating it into the traditional cuisine. It promotes a plant-based alternative protein source. | Incorporates a new product into the traditional cuisine. |
Asociación Montaña y Desarrollo | Farm | Fosters educative projects in rural areas focussing on and recovering popular culture with a feminist approach as a tool for sustainable development. Combines exchanging seed varieties and including women by their feminist working group (FEMINARIO). | Safeguards old varieties and farming techniques and disseminates of the popular culture. |
Veta La Palma | Farm | Fish farm within the Doñana National Park. It functions as a shelter for migrating birds and has significantly increased biodiversity. It creates employment for local fishers by using traditional fishing techniques. | Uses traditional fishing techniques and knowledge. |
La Cuina a Sils | Fork | Promotes left-over recipes to reduce food waste. It is a collective of senior women trying to preserve the traditional cuisine of Sils, Catalunya. | Safeguards traditional recipes and disseminates the local culinary culture. |
La Platjeta | Farm and Fork | Offers fish baskets with seasonal fish that are delivered to the home of the consumers. It reduces fishing pressures on overfished species. It offers activities related to fishery to promote the cultural heritage of the artisanal fishers in Barcelona. | Uses traditional fishing techniques, targeting of forgotten species and promotion of the cultural heritage of the artisanal fishers. |
Parque agrario de Gallecs | Farm | Agroecological park managed by a consortium of different municipalities. It fosters agrobiodiversity by recovering local varieties, fostering short marketing circuits and the reconversion of the area to organic farming. | Recovers old varieties and farming techniques. |
Espigoladors | Farm and Fork | Targets food waste, making healthy diets accessible for people at risk of social exclusion and creating new job opportunities. It establishes cooperation with farmers to glean fruit and vegetables that otherwise would remain on the field. It donates 90% of the gleaned food to soup kitchens and elaborates marmalades and cream with the remaining 10% for which people at risk of social exclusion are employed. | Re-invents the gleaning tradition: the poor were traditionally given access to the fields after harvest, so that they could collect what had been left on the field. |
Menjadors Ecològics | Fork | Establishes direct links with school canteens to help them shift towards a traditional diet based on local organic varieties and products. | Recovers the Mediterranean diet. |
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Guerrero Lara, L.; Pereira, L.M.; Ravera, F.; Jiménez-Aceituno, A. Flipping the Tortilla: Social-Ecological Innovations and Traditional Ecological Knowledge for More Sustainable Agri-Food Systems in Spain. Sustainability 2019, 11, 1222. https://doi.org/10.3390/su11051222
Guerrero Lara L, Pereira LM, Ravera F, Jiménez-Aceituno A. Flipping the Tortilla: Social-Ecological Innovations and Traditional Ecological Knowledge for More Sustainable Agri-Food Systems in Spain. Sustainability. 2019; 11(5):1222. https://doi.org/10.3390/su11051222
Chicago/Turabian StyleGuerrero Lara, Leonie, Laura M. Pereira, Federica Ravera, and Amanda Jiménez-Aceituno. 2019. "Flipping the Tortilla: Social-Ecological Innovations and Traditional Ecological Knowledge for More Sustainable Agri-Food Systems in Spain" Sustainability 11, no. 5: 1222. https://doi.org/10.3390/su11051222