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Article

Research on Waterless Cosmetics in the Form of Scrub Bars Based on Natural Exfoliants

by
Marta Ogorzałek
1,*,
Emilia Klimaszewska
1,
Anna Małysa
2,
Dominik Czerwonka
2 and
Ryszard Tomasiuk
3
1
Department of Cosmetology, Faculty of Medical Sciences and Health Sciences, Casimir Pulaski University of Radom, Chrobrego 27, 26-600 Radom, Poland
2
Faculty of Industrial Chemistry, Casimir Pulaski University of Radom, Chrobrego 27, 26-600 Radom, Poland
3
Department of Basic Medical Sciences, Faculty of Medical Sciences and Health Sciences, Casimir Pulaski University of Radom, Chrobrego 27, 26-600 Radom, Poland
*
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
Appl. Sci. 2024, 14(23), 11329; https://doi.org/10.3390/app142311329
Submission received: 18 October 2024 / Revised: 29 November 2024 / Accepted: 2 December 2024 / Published: 4 December 2024
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advances in Biomaterials and Drug Technology)
Browse Figures
Versions Notes

Abstract

:
Scrub bars are an innovative alternative to traditional liquid, semi-liquid, and oily body scrubs. Through the elimination of water from their formulas, they align with the current ‘waterless’ trend in the cosmetics market. The aims of this study were to create anhydrous formulations for body scrub bars and to assess their physical, chemical, and sensory characteristics depending on the type of exfoliant added. A total of five solid body scrub formulations were developed using different natural exfoliants: sugar, microcrystalline cellulose, ground coffee beans, corn granules, and sodium chloride. The shape and dimensions of the exfoliant particles were characterized by scanning electron microscopy (SEM). The formulations were subjected to texturometric tests. The final products underwent color assessment along with a consumer evaluation of sensory appeal. The test results showed that the body scrubs exhibiting the highest hardness and adhesive force were those containing exfoliants with small particles, either angular (sodium chloride) or subrounded (Coffea arabica seed powder) in shape. Conversely, the lowest hardness was determined for the product formulated with the addition of an exfoliant with well-rounded particles (microcrystalline cellulose). Among the exfoliants tested, microcrystalline cellulose proved to be the most suitable for body scrubs, demonstrating superior texture and exfoliating effectiveness. However, cosmetics containing ground coffee received the highest esthetic ratings. Coffee gave the product a natural color and an appealing scent, as judged by the testers.

1. Introduction

In recent years, there has been a major rise in public awareness and concern about environmental issues. The so-called ‘waterless trend’ is growing in popularity globally—also in the cosmetics market—as part of the current environmentally conscious approach. The primary objective here is to minimize water usage throughout the entire life cycle of products: from raw material sourcing and cosmetic production to packaging and subsequent use by consumers [1,2]. The scarcity of drinking water is recognized as one of the greatest problems currently facing humanity. Freshwater accounts for only 3% of the total water on Earth, despite the fact that 70% of our planet’s surface is covered by water. Excessive water consumption is associated with rising population levels, growing urbanization, and economic development [3]. Consequently, the waterless trend represents a crucial initiative in mitigating the global water crisis. In the skincare world, solid products such as bars (conditioners, body creams) and powders (dry shampoos, body scrubs) are growing in popularity as eco-friendly alternatives to their liquid counterparts [1,4]. Other categories of water-free cosmetic products include fat-based formulations, such as oils, and dry products, like powders [5,6]. As the waterless trend has gained popularity in the cosmetics industry, scientific papers related to this topic have also been published in the literature. In their study, Eisa et al. [2] introduced a waterless mask formulation based on a surface-modified biocarbon composite which successfully achieves skin cleansing and exfoliation while prioritizing environmental sustainability. In turn, Grove et al. [7] conducted two studies to compare a novel anhydrous antiseptic formulation based on chlorhexidine gluconate/ethanol and emollient with a conventional water-based reference product. The findings from assessments conducted by experts and test subjects, as well as instrumentation-based tests, consistently indicated that the anhydrous product was gentler on the skin compared to the conventional water-based formulation. In their study, Brito et al. [8] developed sustainable formulations for a shampoo bar containing mango peel extracts as antioxidants, eliminating the need for water and plastic packaging, and repurposing waste from the food industry. Waterless formulations also offer several other benefits, such as decreased microbial growth and reduced reliance on preservatives. Furthermore, these solutions help decrease the unit weight of cosmetic products, simplifying packaging. They also eliminate the need for plastic packaging and streamline storage and supply chain logistics. Examples of this category of cosmetics include innovative waterless mousse masks developed by Wasilewski et al. [9]. The products are formulated without water and contain solely fatty raw materials and a disintegrator. However, when applied, they combine with water to form a mousse, which is easier to apply and spread on the skin.
Conventional scrub products that rely on the process of physical exfoliation are typically available in the form of emulsions or gels. Their purpose is to cleanse the skin, accelerate epidermal regeneration, eliminate imperfections, and enhance skin firmness and smoothness. These formulations contain surfactants with cleansing properties, rheology modifiers, emulsifiers, and various types of additives, such as moisturizers and emollients [10,11]. Nevertheless, the primary ingredients employed in formulating body scrubs are exfoliating substances that contribute to mechanical removal of dead epidermal cells [12,13]. The vast majority of commercially available scrub products used in skincare treatments and esthetic dermatology contain synthetic microbeads as exfoliants [14]. Synthetic microbeads are used in the cosmetics industry because of their diverse physical properties and durability. However, they have also sparked significant controversy, particularly due to concerns about their environmental impact and effects on living organisms. Among other issues, there is the potential for microplastics to transfer through the food chain and for the toxins within them to biomagnify, which can directly affect human health through the consumption of seafood [15,16]. Because of these issues, the cosmetics industry has started phasing out microplastics from the ingredients of exfoliating rinse-off products. In 2015, the use of microbeads in cosmetic products was banned in the USA [17]. Meanwhile, the European Union is developing regulations to control the use of microplastics in different industry sectors, including cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. This is the so-called ECHA proposal, which calls for restrictions on microplastics in a variety of products with the goal of preventing or minimizing their release into the environment [18,19,20]. Alternatives to microplastics include natural exfoliating substances derived from plant pips and seeds, or natural fibers. In addition, there is ongoing research in the field focused on exploring natural alternatives to synthetic microbeads for applications in cosmetic products. Examples include crabwood waste bagasse, almond shells, oilseed cake, or Passiflora, P. ligularis, P. edulis Sims fo edulis, and P. mollissima seeds [21,22,23].
However, there are no literature reports specifically addressing research on the functional or consumer-relevant properties of scrub bars. Consequently, the authors of the present study decided to address this research gap by formulating waterless body scrub bars that incorporate natural exfoliants in alignment with current trends in the cosmetics market. Eliminating or substantially reducing the water content in cosmetic products requires careful selection of ingredients. Moreover, creating a stable formulation encapsulated in the form of a bar presents a range of challenges and limitations. Since the exfoliant is a component that does not mix with the other ingredients of the formulation, it can significantly impact the structure of the cosmetic bar. To investigate this, five scrub bar formulations were developed. The formulas incorporated various types of natural exfoliants commonly found in cosmetic scrubs. The exfoliants varied in grain size, surface morphology, and natural origin (both organic and inorganic). The designed, original formulations were subjected to tests to determine their physicochemical properties. In addition, a consumer evaluation of sensory appeal was performed.

2. Materials and Methods

2.1. Materials

The following raw materials were used to make a series of scrub bars: Butyrospermum parkii butter from Standard Sp. z o.o (Lublin Poland); sodium palmate, sodium palm kernelate from Betasoap Sp. z o.o, (Warsaw, Poland); sucrose from Diamant (Poznan, Poland); microcrystalline cellulose from J. Rettenmaier & Söhne (Rosenberg, Germany); Coffea arabica seed powder from Jacobs Douwe Egberts (Warsaw, Poland); Zea mays (corn) cob granules from J. Rettenmaier & Söhne (Rosenberg, Germany); sodium chloride from Standard Sp. z o.o (Lublin, Poland); Euphorbia cerifa (candellila) wax from Ecospa (Warsaw, Poland); lanolin from Croda Poland (Caracow, Poland); glycerin from Cremer (Hamburg, Germany); Vitis vinifera (grape) seed oil from Ecospa (Warsaw, Poland); and Mangifera indica (mango) seed butter from Ecospa (Warsaw, Poland).

2.2. Formulations

For the purpose of the study, a series of scrub bar formulations were developed (Table 1), each varying based on the type of exfoliant used: sucrose (F_S), microcrystalline cellulose (F_MC), Coffea arabica seed powder (F_CA), Zea mays (corn) cob granules (F_ZMC), and sodium chloride (F_SC).
Measured amounts of soap flakes (sodium palmate, sodium palm kernelate) and Euphoriba cerifa (candellila) wax were grated in a mortar and then heated in a water bath until they completely dissolved and achieved a uniform consistency. Next, the following ingredients were added: lanolin, glycerin, Mangifera indica (mango) seed butter, and Vitis vinifera (grape) seed oil. Once a homogeneous blend was formed, the exfoliants were added, and the mixtures were poured into a mold, where they were left to solidify. The photographs of the formulated scrub bars are shown in Figure 1.

2.3. Methods

2.3.1. Scanning Electron Microscopy of Exfoliating Agents

The morphological properties of the exfoliants used in the scrubs were evaluated using a FEI Quanta 250 FEG scanning electron microscope (SEM) (FEI Inc., Eindhoven, The Netherlands). Exfoliant particles were affixed to aluminum stubs using double-sided carbon tape and then examined under high vacuum conditions.

2.3.2. Texture Analysis

The textural properties of the formulated scrub bars were determined using a Brookfield CT3 texture analyzer (Brookfield Engineering Laboratories, INC., Middleboro, MA, USA). The measurements were conducted using a TA15/100 acrylic cone probe (Brookfield Engineering Laboratories, INC., Middleboro, MA, USA) at an immersion depth of 5 mm, a head travel speed of 0.1 mm/s, and a load of 4500 g. The measurements were recorded at a temperature of 21 °C. The results (hardness and adhesive force) were recorded using the Texture ProCT software (https://www.brookfieldengineering.com/products/software/texturepro, accessed on 17 October 2024). Adhesive force is represented by a peak negative value, but it is reported as a positive value. The results are presented as the arithmetic mean of five measurements.

2.3.3. Consumer Evaluation of Sensory Appeal

Consumer evaluation of the sensory appeal of the formulated scrub bars was carried out across three categories: during use, after use, and in-hand. Assessment during use focused on sensory qualities, including the spreadability, absorption, adhesion, and texture/structure of the scrub bar. With respect to the sensations reported after product use, a range of sensory parameters were determined, including skin smoothing, moisturization, and lubrication. In-hand product evaluation involved sensory parameters comprising roughness, moisture, greasiness, texture, color, and odor. The sensory characteristics were established based on the literature [24,25,26]. The analysis was conducted using the scaling method in a group of ten testers (women between the ages of 20 and 25) previously trained. Participants gave written informed consent to participate in the study. Each parameter was rated on a 5-point scale, where 1 point represents the lowest and 5 points the highest consumer assessment.

2.3.4. Color Evaluation

Color measurements were performed using a Konica Minolta CR-400 colorimeter (Konica Minolta, Wrocław, Poland). The measurements were carried out in the CIE system based on the measurement of three trichromatic components, namely L*a*b*, where L* represents brightness, i.e., the intensity of color brightness, ranging from 0 (black) to 100 (white); a* indicates values between red and green; and b* reflects values between yellow and blue. Each sample was measured 5 times, and then the average values of color parameters were determined from these measurements.

2.3.5. Statistical Analyses

All statistical analyses were performed using the R package v. 3.6.1 [27]. Because the majority of experiments were a collection of five repetitions, the samples were recomputed using an Effron bootstrap sample of 1000 repetitions with replacement [28]. Statistical analyses were performed using analysis of variance (ANOVA; StatSoft 13.1, Cracow, Poland). Post hoc analyses were performed with the Tukey HSD test.

3. Results and Discussion

3.1. Scanning Electron Microscopy of Exfoliating Agents

To characterize the morphology of the exfoliant particles and determine their shape and angularity, an examination using a scanning electron microscope (SEM) was carried out. The results are shown in Figure 2.
Sucrose particles exhibited a highly regular shape, appearing as cuboids with precisely defined edges. Their size typically ranged from 600 to 1100 μm. Similar to sucrose, the morphology of microcrystalline cellulose was characterized by a very high degree of regularity, but its particles were more spherical in shape, with rounded edges. Typically, their dimensions fell within the range of 700 to 1050 μm. Coffea arabica seed powder stood out due to its substantially smaller particle size, typically ranging from 30 to 100 μm. The particles had an irregular shape, with no visible sharp edges. High amorphousness was also shown for Zea mays (corn) cob cranules. The photograph depicts a mixture of spherical particles and oblong particles with distinctly sharper edges. These particles also exhibited the greatest size variations, between 600 and 1600 μm. The greatest regularity of shape was observed in sodium chloride crystals, which were nearly cubic and had sharply defined edges. These particles showed only slight variations in size, typically falling within the range of 350 to 450 μm. Based on the criteria for classifying particle shapes proposed by Russell and Taylor [29] and Pettijohn [30], sucrose and sodium chloride can be categorized as angular-shaped, microcrystalline cellulose as well-rounded, and Zea mays (corn) cob granules and Coffea arabica seed powder as subrounded particles. The authors of research papers [31,32] state that abrasives should be evaluated based on three factors: hardness, dimensions, and particle shape. In addition, they found that ground fruit seeds provide more abrasive exfoliation due to their coarse particles, while more spherical and smooth particles provide smoother exfoliation. The authors also warn of the negative effects of using larger, harder, and irregularly shaped abrasives that cause a rough feeling on the skin, which can cause irritation and sometimes injury.

3.2. Texturometric Evaluation

The original scrub bars developed for the study underwent texture evaluation based on two parameters: hardness and adhesive force. Hardness corresponds to the highest force recorded during a single test cycle, whereas adhesive force, which measures how well the sample adheres to the probe, represents the lowest (negative) value recorded during the test. However, it is reported as a positive value [33,34]. Texture assessment of cosmetic products provides insights into their mechanical, geometric, and surface attributes, which helps determine the ease of application and spreadability of the product on the skin during use [35,36]. The results obtained in the texture analysis for the bar scrubs containing different exfoliants are shown in Figure 3 and Figure 4.
Based on the test results, it was concluded that the type of exfoliant used in the formulated scrubs affected their hardness and adhesive force. The highest values of hardness (Figure 3) and adhesive force (Figure 4) were recorded in the F_CA and F_SC scrub bars containing Coffea arabica seed powder and sodium chloride, respectively. A shared characteristic of these scrub bars is the inclusion of small-sized exfoliants in their formulations (Figure 2). Similar values of hardness, between 611 g and 647 g, were obtained for the F_S and F_ZMC scrubs. Conversely, the lowest hardness values (522.5 g) were determined for the product formulated with microcrystalline cellulose (F_MC), which is the only exfoliant with spherically shaped particles among the analyzed compounds (Figure 2). The formulations containing Zea mays (corn) cob granules (F_ZMC) at 112.8 g and sucrose (F_S) at 116 g as exfoliants demonstrated the lowest adhesive force. Cosmetic products in solid format are expected to maintain strong structural integrity. Once formed, they should retain their shape without deformation, crumbling, or melting during application [37]. Azadbakht et al. [38] also indicated that common issues with commercially available solid shampoo bars include excessive hardness, lack of gloss, cracking, and wear during use (weight loss and softening of the bar). Texturometric studies of solid cosmetics (bar soaps) were also conducted by Perifanova-Nemska et al. [39]. The authors found that higher levels of plum oil led to decreased soap hardness, which implies that the content of plum seed oil in the soap formulation was relatively limited.

3.3. Consumer Evaluation of Sensory Appeal

Sensory evaluation is an effective method for improving cosmetic products and conducting quality control checks in the cosmetics industry. This approach enables quick and cost-effective measurements of cosmetic performance (useful for market research and consumer tests), gaining insights into optimizing various product characteristics, selecting the best product from a larger group, examining the shelf-life of cosmetics, and introducing new ingredients into formulations [24,40,41]. In recent years, there has been a trend toward developing what are known as “personalized cosmetics”, i.e., products specifically designed to meet unique consumer needs. Formulation design is a multifaceted process in which the physicochemical and functional qualities of products must be fine-tuned to align not only with objective criteria but also with the subjective experiences and sensory perceptions of potential buyers [42,43,44]. In the present study, sensory evaluation was conducted based on the methodology outlined in Section 2.3.3, following the approach employed for the sensory evaluation of body scrubs described in the literature [24,25,26]. Individual sensory parameters were adjusted or added to suit the unique form of the cosmetic product under analysis (scrub bar). Table 2 shows the sensory profiles and scores (partial and total) for the scrub bars containing various exfoliants, including, consecutively, sugar, microcrystalline cellulose, ground coffee beans, corn granules, and sodium chloride.
Based on the results of consumer sensory appeal evaluation and the final scores, the scrub bars can be ranked from those that best meet expectations to those that are least attractive to consumers. The F_CA scrub bars, formulated with coffee as an exfoliant, received the highest rating, scoring 102 points out of 130. A score only two points lower (100/130) was recorded for the formulations containing corn granules (F_ZMC). A very good score (99/130 points) was also obtained for the products with microcrystalline cellulose (F_MC). The final two scrub bar prototypes, containing sugar (F_S) and sodium chloride (F_SC) as exfoliating microparticles, achieved scores of 95 and 89 points out of a possible 130, respectively, in consumer evaluation. Among individual sensory parameters and partial scores, consumers rated the appearance of the product as the best characteristic (in-hand evaluation), with scores within the range of 25–29/35 points. Consumers also gave positive feedback on the use of the scrub bars after rubbing them on the skin (5 and 10 circles) and evaluating skin condition post-use. The testers observed visible epidermal exfoliation (scrubbing effect) when using the bar containing microcrystalline cellulose as an exfoliant. In this case, the texture of the product and its moisturizing effect on the skin were also evaluated positively. When it comes to esthetic qualities, including color and scent, the scrub containing Coffea arabica seed powder (F_CA) as an exfoliant received the top mark. The results of the consumer evaluation of sensory qualities can be correlated with the outcomes of the texture tests. The F_CA scrub bar, containing Coffea arabica seed powder in its formulation, which was characterized by the highest hardness (885.4 g) and adhesive force (148.7 g), received top scores in the evaluation of texture but showed weaker exfoliating performance. According to consumer feedback, the scrub bar containing microcrystalline cellulose (F_MC), which had the lowest hardness (522.5 g) and relatively low adhesive force (127.1 g), provided the best moisturizing effect and very good exfoliating performance. In addition, it received top marks for texture. With respect to the sodium chloride-containing scrub bar, which was characterized by high hardness, the testers evaluated its exfoliating effect as the weakest. However, they gave it good marks for texture, even though the exfoliant particles had sharply defined edges.

3.4. Color Evaluation of Scrub Bars

Color represents one of the main quality attributes in cosmetic products. Color measurements are essential for monitoring the correct progress of technological processes and tracking color changes during the storage of raw materials and finished products. Color optimization is also important for meeting consumer preferences and quality standards in cosmetic products. In view of the above, the impact of different exfoliants on the color change of the scrub bars was evaluated, with the results shown in Figure 5.
The study found that different exfoliants influenced the color parameters of the formulated scrub bars. Perceptual lightness (Figure 5A), which is an attribute related to the amount of reflected light, ranged from 33.95 to 76.54 in the evaluated scrub bars. The highest value of the L* parameter, i.e., the lightest color, was noted for the F_MC scrub bar (76.54), which contains microcrystalline cellulose in the formulation. Conversely, the F_CA scrub, which contained Coffea arabica seed powder as an exfoliant, demonstrated the lowest lightness (L* = 33.95). The colorimetry results can be compared with Figure 1, which shows photographs of the scrub bars. This comparison clearly indicates that the F_CA scrub is the darkest, but based on a visual evaluation, it is not possible to clearly determine which of the scrubs is the lightest. The trichromatic color coordinates a* (Figure 5B) and b* (Figure 5C) also exhibited variations based on the types of exfoliants used in the scrub bar formulas. When examining the a* parameter, it is evident that incorporating the exfoliants Zea mays (corn) cob granules and Coffea arabica seed powder into the formulations led to an increase in the red color component of the F_ZMC (3.26) and F_CA (5.59) scrubs. Conversely, incorporating sucrose, microcrystalline cellulose, and sodium chloride into the formulations resulted in the a* parameter assuming negative values, resulting in an increase in the intensity of the green color in the scrub bars, which can be represented with the following sequence: F_S > F_MC > F_SC. The value of the b* parameter, reflecting color changes from blue to yellow, varied from 8.77 to 16.63, which shows a greater proportion of the color yellow in all evaluated body scrubs. Similar results for the L* parameter were obtained in [45], which studied the application of food industry ingredients, including microcrystalline cellulose, as fillers in waterless facial cleansers. In the cleansing powders containing microcrystalline cellulose, the researchers observed negative values for the a* parameter and positive values for the b* parameter. The study by Zięba et al. [46] also revealed that incorporating plant powders into hair conditioners led to alterations in all the color parameters measured. Above all, the authors noted a reduction in the L* value compared to the baseline sample. Chemically, plants are rich in compounds that can be used as coloring agents in the food or cosmetic industries, among other applications. The same applies to natural exfoliants, which, serving as an interesting alternative to microplastics, also come in various colors [47,48].

4. Conclusions

Given the evident and alarming effects of global climate change, sustainable product development has become a crucial concern across all industry sectors, including the cosmetics industry. One of the initiatives aimed at mitigating negative environmental impacts is the development of cosmetic products with minimal formulations, containing no water, based on natural or naturally derived ingredients that are safe for both health and the environment. In this study, the authors presented the successful formulations of waterless scrub bars. In line with the study objectives, the choice of exfoliant was found to significantly impact the physicochemical and functional properties of the solid cosmetic bars. It is worth noting that the scrub bar with the lowest hardness, containing microcrystalline cellulose as an exfoliant, received the highest scores for texture and exfoliating performance during use. When it comes to esthetic qualities, including color and scent, the scrub containing Coffea arabica seed powder as an exfoliant received the top mark. It is important to note that natural exfoliating substances can alter the color of the scrub bars, as confirmed by colorimetric tests. Hence, natural raw materials can positively influence the color of the final cosmetic product, leading to a favorable assessment by consumers.
In summary, by carefully selecting the type of exfoliant for waterless scrub bars, it is possible to formulate products that offer optimal structural integrity, effective removal of dead skin, and high visual appeal. The scrub bars with natural exfoliants proposed in this study could serve as an interesting alternative to cosmetic products containing synthetic microbeads. It should be noted, however, that based on the research results presented, it is not possible to clearly indicate which exfoliant is the best choice. This may depend on the skin type, age, application site, or skin health of the potential consumer. However, it is anticipated that the innovative cosmetics developed will improve skin condition by removing imperfections, firming, and smoothing. In conclusion, the research presented in this article provides valuable guidance in the design of formulations with peeling properties for specialized applications.

Author Contributions

Conceptualization, M.O.; methodology, M.O., D.C. and R.T.; investigation, M.O., E.K., A.M. and D.C.; writing, M.O., E.K., A.M. and D.C.; writing—review and editing, M.O., E.K., A.M., D.C. and R.T.; visualization, R.T. and D.C.; supervision, M.O.; funding acquisition, M.O., E.K., A.M. and R.T. All authors have read and agreed to the published version of the manuscript.

Funding

The paper is a part of Project no. 3608/188/P entitled “Influence of active substances on physicochemical and usable properties of selected cosmetic products used in various disease entities” and Project no. 3580/182/P entitled “A study of consumer attitudes in shaping new products and services—assessment of the quality and safety of new products and services”. These projects are funded by the Polish Ministry of Science and Higher Education.

Institutional Review Board Statement

All subjects gave their informed consent for inclusion before they participated in the study. The study was conducted in accordance with the Declaration of Helsinki, and the protocol was approved by the Bioethics Committee of the Casimir Pulaski University of Radom (Project title: “Influence of active substances on physicochemical and usable properties of selected cosmetic products used in various disease entities”; Approval code: Resolution No. KB/04/2024; Date of approval: 14 May 2024).

Informed Consent Statement

Informed consent was obtained from all subjects involved in the study.

Data Availability Statement

Data is contained within the article.

Acknowledgments

The authors would like to sincerely thank Paulina Ratyńska, a former student of Radom University of Technology and Humanities, for her contribution to the research measurements.

Conflicts of Interest

The authors declare no conflicts of interest.

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Applsci 14 11329 g001
Figure 1. Photos of the original scrub bars with exfoliant: sucrose (F_S), microcrystalline cellulose (F_MC), Coffea arabica seed powder (F_CA), Zea mays (corn) cob granules (F_ZMC), and sodium chloride (F_SC).
Figure 1. Photos of the original scrub bars with exfoliant: sucrose (F_S), microcrystalline cellulose (F_MC), Coffea arabica seed powder (F_CA), Zea mays (corn) cob granules (F_ZMC), and sodium chloride (F_SC).
Applsci 14 11329 g001
Applsci 14 11329 g002
Figure 2. SEM images of the exfoliating agents, magnification 60×.
Figure 2. SEM images of the exfoliating agents, magnification 60×.
Applsci 14 11329 g002
Applsci 14 11329 g003
Figure 3. Hardness of scrub bars with exfoliant: sucrose (F_S), microcrystalline cellulose (F_MC), Coffea arabica seed powder (F_CA), Zea mays (corn) cob granules (F_ZMC), and sodium chloride (F_SC).
Figure 3. Hardness of scrub bars with exfoliant: sucrose (F_S), microcrystalline cellulose (F_MC), Coffea arabica seed powder (F_CA), Zea mays (corn) cob granules (F_ZMC), and sodium chloride (F_SC).
Applsci 14 11329 g003
Applsci 14 11329 g004
Figure 4. Adhesion force of scrub bars with exfoliant: sucrose (F_S), microcrystalline cellulose (F_MC), Coffea arabica seed powder (F_CA), Zea mays (corn) cob granules (F_ZMC), and sodium chloride (F_SC).
Figure 4. Adhesion force of scrub bars with exfoliant: sucrose (F_S), microcrystalline cellulose (F_MC), Coffea arabica seed powder (F_CA), Zea mays (corn) cob granules (F_ZMC), and sodium chloride (F_SC).
Applsci 14 11329 g004
Applsci 14 11329 g005aApplsci 14 11329 g005b
Figure 5. Results of colorimetric measurements for scrub bars with exfoliant: sucrose (F_S), microcrystalline cellulose (F_MC), Coffea arabica seed powder (F_CA), Zea mays (corn) cob granules (F_ZMC), and sodium chloride (F_SC). (A) Parameter L*, (B) Parameter a*, (C) Parameter b*.
Figure 5. Results of colorimetric measurements for scrub bars with exfoliant: sucrose (F_S), microcrystalline cellulose (F_MC), Coffea arabica seed powder (F_CA), Zea mays (corn) cob granules (F_ZMC), and sodium chloride (F_SC). (A) Parameter L*, (B) Parameter a*, (C) Parameter b*.
Applsci 14 11329 g005aApplsci 14 11329 g005b
Table 1. Formulations of the original scrub bars.
Table 1. Formulations of the original scrub bars.
INCI NameConcentration [% w/w]
F_SF_MCF_CAF_ZMCF_SC
Butyrospermum parkii butter33.0
Sodium palmate, sodium palm kernelate30.0
Sucrose20.0----
Microcrystalline cellulose-20.0---
Coffea arabica seed powder--20.0--
Zea mays (corn) cob granules---20.0-
Sodium chloride----20.0
Euphorbia cerifa (candellila) wax10.0
Lanolin3.0
Glycerin2.0
Vitis vinifera (grape) seed oil1.0
Mangifera indica (mango) seed butter1.0
Table 2. Consumer evaluation of sensory appeal of scrub bars with the following exfoliants: sucrose (F_S), microcrystalline cellulose (F_MC), Coffea arabica seed powder (F_CA), Zea mays (corn) cob granules (F_ZMC), and sodium chloride (F_SC).
Table 2. Consumer evaluation of sensory appeal of scrub bars with the following exfoliants: sucrose (F_S), microcrystalline cellulose (F_MC), Coffea arabica seed powder (F_CA), Zea mays (corn) cob granules (F_ZMC), and sodium chloride (F_SC).
Conditions for Conducting Sensory EvaluationParameters
RoughnessMoistureGreasingDistributionAbsorptionAdhesionConsistency
/Structure		Abrasive FeelingHydrationStickinessColorSmellPointsTotal Points
F_SSkin before the test434---------11/1595/130
Evaluation during applicationAfter 5 circles---34453----19/25
After 10 circles---44443----19/25
Sensation after using the scrubRight away433---------10/15
After 5 min.433---------10/15
Product evaluation in the hand3-3---5-444326/35
F_MCSkin before the test434---------11/1599/130
Evaluation during applicationAfter 5 circles---43455----21/25
After 10 circles---44455----22/25
Sensation after using the scrubRight away433---------10/15
After 5 min.433---------10/15
Product evaluation in the hand4-3---5-334325/35
F_CASkin before the test434---------11/15102/130
Evaluation during applicationAfter 5 circles---53453----20/25
After 10 circles---44454----21/25
Sensation after using the scrubRight away433---------10/15
After 5 min.434---------11/15
Product evaluation in the hand4-3---5-345529/35
F_ZMCSkin before the test434---------11/15100/130
Evaluation during applicationAfter 5 circles434444------19/25
After 10 circles---54444----21/25
Sensation after using the scrubRight away443---------11/15
After 5 min.444---------12/15
Product evaluation in the hand3-3---4-444426/35
F_SCSkin before the test434---------11/1589/130
Evaluation during applicationAfter 5 circles---33342----15/25
After 10 circles---43442----17/25
Sensation after using the scrubRight away333---------10/15
After 5 min.333---------10/15
Product evaluation in the hand3-3 --4-435426/35
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MDPI and ACS Style

Ogorzałek, M.; Klimaszewska, E.; Małysa, A.; Czerwonka, D.; Tomasiuk, R. Research on Waterless Cosmetics in the Form of Scrub Bars Based on Natural Exfoliants. Appl. Sci. 2024, 14, 11329. https://doi.org/10.3390/app142311329

AMA Style

Ogorzałek M, Klimaszewska E, Małysa A, Czerwonka D, Tomasiuk R. Research on Waterless Cosmetics in the Form of Scrub Bars Based on Natural Exfoliants. Applied Sciences. 2024; 14(23):11329. https://doi.org/10.3390/app142311329

Chicago/Turabian Style

Ogorzałek, Marta, Emilia Klimaszewska, Anna Małysa, Dominik Czerwonka, and Ryszard Tomasiuk. 2024. "Research on Waterless Cosmetics in the Form of Scrub Bars Based on Natural Exfoliants" Applied Sciences 14, no. 23: 11329. https://doi.org/10.3390/app142311329

APA Style

Ogorzałek, M., Klimaszewska, E., Małysa, A., Czerwonka, D., & Tomasiuk, R. (2024). Research on Waterless Cosmetics in the Form of Scrub Bars Based on Natural Exfoliants. Applied Sciences, 14(23), 11329. https://doi.org/10.3390/app142311329

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