Next Article in Journal
SDA-Mask R-CNN: An Advanced Seabed Feature Extraction Network for UUV
Previous Article in Journal
Marine Intelligent Technology as a Strategic Tool for Sustainable Development: A Five-Year Systematic Analysis
 
 
Search for Articles:
Title / Keyword
Author / Affiliation / Email
Journal
Article Type
 
 
Advanced Search
 
Section
Special Issue
Volume
Issue
Number
Page
 
Journals
JMSE
Volume 13
Issue 5
10.3390/jmse13050861
jmse-logo
Submit to this Journal Review for this Journal Propose a Special Issue
► Article Menu

Article Menu

share Share announcement Help format_quote Cite question_answer Discuss in SciProfiles
first_page
settings
Order Article Reprints
Font Type:
Arial Georgia Verdana
Font Size:
Aa Aa Aa
Line Spacing:
Column Width:
Background:
This is an early access version, the complete PDF, HTML, and XML versions will be available soon.
Article

Surf and Swash Zone Dynamics from High-Frequency Observations at a Microtidal Low-Energy Dissipative Beach

by
Dimitris Chatzistratis
1,*,
Antonis E. Chatzipavlis
1,2,
Isavela N. Monioudi
1,
Adonis F. Velegrakis
1,
Olympos P. Andreadis
1,
Fotis Psarros
1 and
Ivan T. Petsimeris
1
1
Department of Marine Sciences, School of Environment, University of the Aegean, University Hill, GR 81100 Mytilene, Greece
2
Department of Physics and Earth Sciences, University of Ferrara, Via Saragat 1, 44122 Ferrara, Italy
*
Author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2025, 13(5), 861; https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13050861
Submission received: 18 March 2025 / Revised: 16 April 2025 / Accepted: 17 April 2025 / Published: 25 April 2025
(This article belongs to the Section Coastal Engineering)
Versions Notes

Abstract

This study examines the surf and swash zone dynamics of a microtidal, low-energy, dissipative beach in Kos Island, Greece, using high-frequency optical monitoring with a Beach Optical Monitoring System (BOMS) and in situ wave measurements during the winter period. Increased wave heights induced the offshore migration of the wave-breaking zone with significant alongshore variability; however, no triggering of NOM (Net Offshore Movement) behavior was verified, while occasional rhythmic patterns were observed in the breaking location under moderate wave conditions. Shoreline dynamics showed transient erosional episodes coupled with elevated run-up excursions, yet the shoreline showed signs of recovery, suggesting a quasi-equilibrium state. Run-up energy spectra were consistently dominated by lower frequencies than those of incoming waves under both low- and high-energy conditions. This behavior is attributed to the nearshore sandbars acting as low-pass filters, dissipating high-frequency wave energy and allowing for lower-frequency motions to dominate run-up processes. A widely used empirical wave run-up predictor corresponded well with the video observations, confirming its applicability to low-energy dissipative beaches. These results underscore the role of submerged sandbars in regulating wave energy dissipation and stabilizing beach morphology under low-to-moderate wave conditions.
Keywords: beach morphodynamics; run-up excursion; high-frequency coastal monitoring; video imagery; sandbar migration beach morphodynamics; run-up excursion; high-frequency coastal monitoring; video imagery; sandbar migration

Share and Cite

MDPI and ACS Style

Chatzistratis, D.; Chatzipavlis, A.E.; Monioudi, I.N.; Velegrakis, A.F.; Andreadis, O.P.; Psarros, F.; Petsimeris, I.T. Surf and Swash Zone Dynamics from High-Frequency Observations at a Microtidal Low-Energy Dissipative Beach. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2025, 13, 861. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13050861

AMA Style

Chatzistratis D, Chatzipavlis AE, Monioudi IN, Velegrakis AF, Andreadis OP, Psarros F, Petsimeris IT. Surf and Swash Zone Dynamics from High-Frequency Observations at a Microtidal Low-Energy Dissipative Beach. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering. 2025; 13(5):861. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13050861

Chicago/Turabian Style

Chatzistratis, Dimitris, Antonis E. Chatzipavlis, Isavela N. Monioudi, Adonis F. Velegrakis, Olympos P. Andreadis, Fotis Psarros, and Ivan T. Petsimeris. 2025. "Surf and Swash Zone Dynamics from High-Frequency Observations at a Microtidal Low-Energy Dissipative Beach" Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 13, no. 5: 861. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13050861

APA Style

Chatzistratis, D., Chatzipavlis, A. E., Monioudi, I. N., Velegrakis, A. F., Andreadis, O. P., Psarros, F., & Petsimeris, I. T. (2025). Surf and Swash Zone Dynamics from High-Frequency Observations at a Microtidal Low-Energy Dissipative Beach. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering, 13(5), 861. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse13050861

Note that from the first issue of 2016, this journal uses article numbers instead of page numbers. See further details here.

Article Metrics

Back to TopTop