Cosmetics, Volume 9, Issue 6 (December 2022) – 35 articles

Phenolic compounds are valuable cosmetic ingredients. They display skin protective potential and play an important role in preserving cosmetic formulations due to their ability to neutralize free radicals. Considering this fact, the current study aims to obtain a phenolic-enriched fraction from Arbutus unedo for topical application in cosmeceutical products. The chemical composition and the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-tyrosinase activities of different extracts from the plant were investigated and compared. Samples were obtained by maceration, reflux, and ultrasound using water and ethanol. The findings indicated that the extraction methods impacted the phytochemical composition of the extracts. The high-performance liquid chromatography with diode-array detection (HPLC–DAD) analysis showed a wide range of phenolic compounds, comprising phenolic acids and flavonoids. Among the extracts, the water reflux had significant levels of both total polyphenols, flavonoids, and tannins and possessed the most important content on hyperoside. It displayed the most significant antioxidant activities with high antiradical and reducing power, as well as strong total antioxidant activity. It possesses a promising whitening effect with high anti-tyrosinase activities. Furthermore, it shows no cytotoxicity and moderate anti-inflammatory activity. Finally, due to its high yield efficiency and activities, water reflux was selected to formulate a cosmeceutical oil-in-water nanoemulsion that displayed optimal pH and stability. Full article

The skin acts as a protective barrier, guarding the body against microorganisms, chemicals, and several environmental factors. Accordingly, this all-important organ must be kept healthy to maintain its optimal functionality. One approach to maintain skin health is the application of multifunction bioactive sunscreens containing antioxidant molecule(s). Rosmarinic acid (RA), a phenolic compound, is known for its antioxidant activity. Herein, the safety and efficacy of a multifunction prototype sunscreen were investigated, aiming to evaluate the performance of this polyphenol with two known and widely used UV filters (bemotrizinol and octyl p-methoxycinnamate). Samples protected the DNA fragmentation compared to UV control, by the comet assay, and showed good skin compatibility in subjects. Formulations F1 and F3 were able to increase skin hydration, and, possibly, the RA interfered with this attribute. An increase in transepidermal water loss was observed for formulations F1, F2, and F4, which may be related to the vehicle, containing the RA or not. No decreases were observed in the inflammatory reaction caused by the ethyl nicotinate with any of the samples. As a perspective, we suggest trials with a greater number of subjects or protocol modifications. Altering the vehicle qualitative and quantitative composition is also a pertinent perspective. Full article

Dermatological conditions, such as acne, photoaging, psoriasis, and wounds, have been treated topically with all-trans retinoic acid (ATRA) for many years owing to its anti-inflammatory activity, comedolytic effect, and ability to increase collagen production. However, common side effects of ATRA known as the retinoid reaction can occur. These side effects are countered by ATRA encapsulation in solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN), nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs), and liposomes. Liposomes used to encapsulate ATRA include niosomes, ethosomes, and transfersomes. Side effects involving inflammatory reactions, such as irritation, redness, and erythema, were diminished using these approaches. The use of such carriers enhanced the efficacy of ATRA by enhancing its permeation into skin. These formulations have been compared in terms of improving the activity of ATRA and the ability to relieve the side effects. Further research into different delivery systems for ATRA using various formulations will improve the future of topical ATRA delivery. Full article

Hops (Humulus lupulus L.) are known worldwide as a raw material in beer production due their flavor and preservative values. The beneficial properties of the plant have been mostly associated with the female hop inflorescences (cones), which is also the part used in the brewing industry. However, some studies indicate the presence of compounds associated with health benefits in the vegetative parts of hops or small-caliber cones, which discarded in hop collection. Moreover, large quantities of by-products remain in the forms of spent grains and spent hops/hot trub and are produced by breweries raising environmental and economic sustainability concerns. This review focuses on the phytochemicals and biological and pharmacological activities of hop and their potential use in skin care products and also intends to explore the potential of the hop’ discarded parts and brewery industry by-products for production in the cosmetics industry. Full article

Skin exfoliators, specifically alpha and beta hydroxy acids, have been shown to improve overall skin health and the clinical signs of aging. A micropeeling cream was developed with hydroxy acids and a brown algae extract and the efficacy and tolerability were evaluated in two parts. In the first part of the pre-clinical investigation, the micropeeling cream and the placebo control were evaluated by ELISA, immunostaining, qPCR and an activity assay using ex vivo and in vitro models. In the second part of the clinical efficacy study, 36 female subjects were enrolled for bioinstrumental measurements, visual imaging and clinical evaluation for 28 days. Fifty percent of subjects had sensitive skin. The ex-vivo study showed an increase in loricrin, superoxide dismutase 2, and extracellular matrix expression, without stimulating inflammatory biomarkers. The dermatologist observed a significant enhancement in all the parameters evaluated at day 28, and radiance, homogeneity, and roughness were significantly better after the first cream application. The homogeneity, desquamation and pore diameter showed significant improvement at day 7. The cream improved markers associated with skin aging and protection ex vivo. It was well tolerated, even on sensitive skin, and provided a significant improvement of fine lines, skin texture, and overall skin characteristics. Full article

This article aimed to determine the experts’ opinion on the use of hirudotherapy in cosmetology, to supplement knowledge, and to identify factors that, in the opinion of experts, affect the effectiveness and frequency of use of this method in eliminating skin problems. The study was conducted using the expert interview method. The research tool was a categorized expert interview questionnaire using the CAWI (Computer Assisted Web Interview) technique. Hirudotherapy is one of the oldest healing methods. The mechanism of action is based on the therapeutic properties of bioactive substances isolated from leech saliva. It has been shown to have a wide range of applications in the treatment of numerous diseases in various fields of medicine, including dermatology and cosmetology. Despite its therapeutic properties and effectiveness, hirudotherapy is a rarely used tool in cosmetology. It has been found effective in the treatment of many dermatoses. The most spectacular effects have been observed in the treatment of rosacea, local inflammations, lipomas, skin scars, hard to heal wounds and contusions. Full article

Although many biological properties of Houttuynia cordata have been found, its anti-aging and anti-acne effects have not yet been investigated. This study was aimed to evaluate the in vitro anti-aging and anti-acne activities of H. cordata extracts and their cytotoxic activities and phytochemicals analyzed with liquid chromatography with tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS). Dried aerial parts of H. cordata were given different extractions. The aqueous and ethanolic extracts obtained were named HCA and HCE, respectively, and used to screen total phenolic and flavonoid contents. In vitro anti-aging, skin-related antimicrobial, scanning electron microscopy (SEM), in vitro cytotoxic, and LC-MS/MS analyses were performed. The total phenolic contents of the HCA and HCE were 5.11 ± 0.25 and 27.02 ± 1.07 mg gallic acid equivalent (GAE)/g dry extract while their total flavonoid contents were 104.94 ± 5.16 and 571.86 ± 2.86 mg quercetin equivalent (QE)/g dry extract, respectively. The HCA and HCE inhibited the activities of collagenase (28.33–46.00%), elastase (30.00–34.33%), and hyaluronidase (93.87–98.72%). The minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) and minimum bactericidal concentration (MBC) of the HCA against Cutibacterium acnes DMST14916 were 5.77 and 5.77 mg/mL while those of the HCE were 2.47 and 2.47 mg/mL, respectively. Cell collapses of C. acnes after treatment with the extracts were observed with SEM. The HCE was not toxic to macrophages, keratinocytes, and fibroblasts up to 400 mg/mL. The HCA showed toxicity against macrophages at 62.5 mg/mL and both skin cells at 250 mg/mL. The main phytochemicals in the extracts were identified with LC-MS/MS. Phenolic compounds, flavonoids, and flavonoid derivatives in H. cordata extracts could be major phytochemicals to possess a broad spectrum of biological activities including antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-aging activities. The findings from this study showed that the HCE has potential anti-aging and anti-acne properties while having non-cytotoxic activities on the immune and skin cells. These results indicate that the extract is probably advantageous in the development of skincare cosmeceutics and beauty treatments. Full article

Hair thinning is a very common problem in dermatology, affecting both men and women, and can strongly impact the quality of life of subjects. In this view, therapies that aim to reduce the appearance of thinning by delaying, arresting, or reversing the course of hair thinning are highly desirable. A novel nutraceutical product (NS) containing active botanicals, a patented composition comprising rutin and polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs), zinc, biotin, and ornithine, has been developed to improve hair growth in subjects with hair thinning. Sixty subjects with telogen effluvium-like hair loss were randomized 1:1 in two groups (NS vs. placebo) and treated for three months and evaluated at the baseline visit (T0), and after 15 days (T1) and one (T2), two (T3), and three (T4) months of treatment. Two follow-up visits one month (T5) and two months after the last assumption (T6) were also included in the protocol. Subjects were evaluated for the percentage of hair in the anagen phase, density of hair in the anagen phase (n/cm²), vellus hair (miniaturized, smaller, and thinner hair), and the entity of hair loss in the telogen phase (pull test). NS supplementation produced a statistically significant (p < 0.05) increase in anagen hair and hair density versus baseline from 15 days (T1) of treatment and this effect was not detectable for placebo. Moreover, a clinically/statistically significant (p < 0.05) decrease in vellus hair was also reported, suggesting not only a rapid reduction of the process of miniaturization of the hair but also a transformation of vellus hair into terminal hair. The NS treatment also showed a significant (p < 0.05) increase in tensile strength till T6 (vs. placebo). A higher percentage of subjects who took the NS noted a reduction in daily hair loss, an increase in brightness, and the presence of stronger hair. No side effects were reported. The present study confirms the clinical efficacy and safety of novel nutraceutical supplements in men and women with hair thinning, acting as a multi-targeted therapeutic approach to hair thinning due to TE-like phenomena. Full article

Total phenolic content using Folin–Ciocalteu method, antioxidant capacity by CUPRAC method and sun protection properties were measured for four different extracts of selected plants: marigold petals, carrot roots, tomato fruits and hop cones. Three types of extracts: water, oil and water-glycolic (1:4) were studied. Assessment of sun protection properties for extracts obtained from selected plants was first done by mathematical indication method and subsequently done spectrophotometrically. In a method of mathematical indication of UV protection based on absorption spectra, four parameters were determined regarding sun protection properties at different concentrations of selected plant extracts. Absorbance generally increased with an increase of concentration of extracts, but an expected increase of particular parameters was not obtained in all samples. The water-glycolic extract from hop cones was characterized by the highest content of phenolic compounds (among all studied samples) and high antioxidant activity. It also showed high radiation protection. Data for four parameters like UVA/UVB parameter, UVA1/UV parameter, SUI parameter and critical wavelength was generated, and the three first parameters were the highest for water and water-glycolic extracts of marigold. Among all plants, hop cones were characterized by the highest SPF for all types of extracts. SPF values increased with the concentration of extracts, but an increase of the weight of dried plants used to prepared extracts did not influence sun protection factor. Full article

Athrixia phylicoides DC. (Bush tea) is a shrub harvested in the north-eastern mountain regions of South Africa and belongs to the Asteraceae family. Generally, A. phylicoides is consumed as a hot tea beverage for its associated health benefits. The use of bush tea extracts for beauty enhancement has not been investigated even though several ethnobotanical reports have indicated its usage against skin imperfections. Therefore, the aim of the study was to assess plant metabolites of A. phylicoides for their inhibition of tyrosinase from mushroom and determine their inhibitory mechanism. Methanolic extracts (80% v/v) of A. phylicoides were evaluated using a tyrosinase-based TLC (thin-layer chromatography) autography technique. The inhibitory mechanism of active metabolites against the enzyme was determined using Lineweaver–Burk plots. Quercetin and an unknown metabolite with a retention factor (Rf) value of 0.73 inhibited melanogenesis. However, the IC₅₀ value for Quercetin was reported as 51.07 ± 2.43 µg/mL higher than that of kojic acid of 5.22 ± 1.44 µg/mL. Chlorogenic acid was reported to have a similar Rf value as kojic acid, suggesting similarities in polarity and affinity towards the adsorbent material. However, chlorogenic acid with an IC₅₀ value of 15.25 ± 1.18 µg/mL and an inhibitory strength of 2.92 could not inhibit melanogenesis with a similar intensity as kojic acid. The inhibitory mechanism for A. phylicoides extract was reported to be mixed inhibition (competitive/uncompetitive). The IC₅₀ value for A. phylicoides was recorded as 20.65 ± 0.14 µg/mL with an inhibitory strength of 3.96. These results suggest that A. phylicoides extracts could be used against dark spots associated with scarring and ageing through modulation of tyrosinase activity. Full article

Plant extracts are well known for their beneficial cosmetic properties based on bioactive phytochemicals with highly demonstrated antimicrobial and antioxidant capacities as phenolic compounds. This work presents the polyphenolic characterization of different extracts from organically grown Filipendula vulgaris. An ultrasound-assisted extraction procedure is proposed for obtaining ethanolic extracts at the laboratory level, both from dried and fresh plants, to be compared with those obtained by classical flower processing techniques for cosmetic purposes. The individual quantification of target phenolic compounds was carried out using liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS). The results revealed the presence of 24 phenolic compounds in the analyzed samples, ranging in concentrations from 0.1 to 71.64 µg g⁻¹. The total phenolic content (TPC) ranging from 1163 to 6114 mg GAE L⁻¹, and the antioxidant activity (AA), from 6 to 52 mmol TRE L⁻¹, were also evaluated. The differences were established between the plant material and extraction technique. Full article

Boswellia carterii is a plant species belonging to the Burseraceae family. It grows up in trees or shrubs, and it is known for producing an aromatic resin commonly named frankincense or olibanum. This resin has been used in traditional medicine to treat various conditions such as inflammations, gastrointestinal disorders and traumatic injuries. Virtual screening and molecular docking are two in silico approaches used to predict potential interactions between ligands and the active site of a protein. These approaches are mainly used in natural product chemistry and pharmacology as a screening tool to select plant extracts or fractions for in vitro testing, as well as for the prediction of mechanisms of action. The aim of this research is the in silico and in vitro evaluations of the potential collagenase and elastase inhibitory activities of Boswellia carterii resin organic extracts (viz., methanol, n-hexane and ethyl acetate). The obtained results revealed that methanol and n-hexane exhibited the best collagenase inhibitory activity with values superior to 85%, whereas the methanol and ethyl acetate showed the highest elastase inhibition activity with inhibition values ranging between 40 and 60%. The molecular docking prediction confirmed the experimental results; moreover, the visualization of the ligand–protein interactions showed that the main compounds of the organic extracts may have mechanisms of action similar to the positive controls. Those findings are very promising and open new perspectives for the exploitation of Boswellia carterii resin as active agents for the development of anti-aging cosmeceuticals. Full article

Irritated and itchy skin is a common skin condition. Consumers tend to opt for natural ingredients for irritated skin (e.g., after insect bites or sun exposure). We tested a cosmetic product with 94% of its ingredients being of natural origin, each with its beneficial properties, e.g., nourishing shea butter, cooling menthol, and soothing bisabolol. Skin discomfort was induced either by a chemical irritant (capsaicin) or UV radiation by a solar simulator. In this clinical, prospective, and controlled experimental study, we investigated the soothing effect of the tested product. We observed a soothing effect on the capsaicin-induced itching and stinging sensation with a statistically significant decrease in the discomfort sensations one minute after a single application. The tested product also showed a significant reduction in the UV-induced skin erythema (UVA+B exposure). In a real-world study, these results can be correlated with a decrease of itching and irritation after sunburn or after insect bites. Full article

Solid Lipid Nanoparticles (SLN) have been prepared by high-pressure homogenization and optimized in order to protect ferulic acid from Ferula assa-foetida L. extract. The influence of lipid and surfactant concentration on the mean particle size (Z-Ave), polydispersity index (PDI), and zeta potential (ZP) of SLN was analyzed. In addition, other parameters for the preparation of ferulic acid-loaded nanoparticles, such as extract concentration and variable parameters for the synthesis method used (e.g., pressure), were adjusted to obtain the smallest particle size and polydispersity index, as well as the highest value for zeta potential, which are characteristic of the stable SLN. The established formulation obtained from the optimized synthesis was composed of 6.0 wt.% of the lipid phase and 1.5 wt.% of surfactant, giving stable SLN with Z-Ave, PDI, and ZP values of 163.00 ± 1.06 nm, 0.16 ± 0.01, and −41.97 ± 0.47 mV, respectively. The loading of ferulic acid from Ferula assa-foetida L. extract within the SLN resulted in particles with a mean size of 155.3 ± 1.1 nm, polydispersity index of 0.16 ± 0.01, zeta potential of −38.00 ± 1.12 mV, and encapsulation efficiency of 27%, the latter being quantified on the basis of RP-HPLC analysis. Our findings highlight the added value of SLN as a delivery system for phenolic phytochemical compounds extracted from Ferula assa-foetida L. Full article

Skin aging is a condition caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) and advanced glycation end products (AGEs). Indonesian gingers (Zingiber officinale), which consists of Gajah (GG), Red (MM), and Emprit (EE) ginger, are thought to produce anti-skin aging compounds through enzyme inhibition. The enzymes used in the molecular docking study were collagenase, hyaluronidase, elastase, and tyrosinase. This study aimed to determine the compounds contained in Indonesian ginger rhizome ethanolic extracts using liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry/mass spectrometry to differentiate metabolites contained in the different Indonesian ginger rhizome extracts. A principal component analysis (PCA) and a heat map analysis were used in order to determine which compounds and extracts contained potential anti-skin aging properties based on a molecular docking study. Ascorbic acid was used as a control ligand in the molecular docking study. Ninety-eight compounds were identified in three different ginger rhizomes extracts and were grouped into three separate quadrants. The most potent compound for anti-skin aging in the Indonesian ginger rhizome extracts was octinoxate. Octinoxate showed a high abundance in the EE ginger rhizome extract. Therefore, the EE ginger extract was the Indonesian ginger rhizome extract with the greatest potential for anti-skin aging. Full article

A rising volume of the literature acknowledges the significance of nanotechnology in the cosmetics industry, particularly with the invention and use of techniques based on niosomes to generate unique formulations with both medicinal and aesthetic benefits. The current study’s objectives are to undertake a comprehensive review of the previously published data on the use and applications of niosomes in cosmetics and to give a succinct summary of that data. Preferred Reporting standards for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analyses (PRISMA) guidelines were used in the design of the current review. The core concept and keywords were derived from the research question using the SPIDER tool. The main steps of this review included: design of the research question, preliminary research, search strategy, searching the database, exclusion and inclusion criteria, approval by authors, title and abstract screening, reporting of the number of data selected, full text download and reading, manual research (Google Scholar, Scopus, and WoS), data extraction and quality assessment, double data checking, and manuscript writing, revision, and submission. After thorough data analysis, it was discovered that a cosmetic product’s aesthetic impact significantly improved when it was created utilising niosomes technology. The majority of cosmeceutical niosomes’ skin and hair products demonstrated an enhanced therapeutic and cosmeceutical effect. These discoveries may contribute to the treatment of skin conditions under the umbrella of cosmeceutical niosomes. Full article

Streptomyces species are widely studied and used in different fields, including antibiotics and pesticides, and are spread in several places as soil-derived microorganisms. However, research on anti-aging, including antioxidants obtained from Streptomyces, has not been performed as much. Skin aging due to bacterial infection, especially methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA), is challenging to recover, so it is essential to prevent aging by preventing or inhibiting infection. Therefore, this study was conducted to isolate Streptomyces species from Rosa davurica rhizome soil and to determine the effect of the ethyl acetate extract of the isolated strain Streptomyces chattanoogensis THA-663 (THA-663S) on the inhibition of MRSA and UVB-irradiated human skin keratinocytes, to determine whether it could be a treatment for skin aging. The MRSA inhibition and antioxidant activities were evaluated using disc diffusion, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), 2,2’-azino-bis-(3-ethylbenzothiazoline)-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS), and a reactive oxygen species (ROS) assay. The expression of aging-related markers, including mitogen-activated protein kinases/activator protein 1 (MAPK)/AP-1) and transforming growth factor-β/suppressor of mothers against decapentaplegic (TGF-β/Smad) was assessed using Western blotting. The antibacterial effect on four MRSA strains, CCARM 0204, CCARM 0205, CCARM 3855, and CCARM 3089, showed that THA-663S could greatly inhibit MRSA growth. Moreover, the findings showed that THA-663S is efficient in scavenging free radicals and dose-dependently reducing ROS generation. Furthermore, THA-663S notably reduced UVB-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) expression by inhibiting the MAPK/AP-1 signaling pathways and blocking extracellular matrix (ECM) degradation in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells. Additionally, THA-663S improved and enhanced transforming growth factor-beta (TGF-β) signaling activation to promote procollagen type I synthesis, relieving UVB-induced skin cell damage. In conclusion, THA-663S has a high potential to protect skin cells from aging, and, simultaneously, it can prevent or treat aging caused by infection due to pathogen inhibition. Full article

The amount and distribution of ceramide, an intercellular lipid, in the fingernails of three Japanese women in their twenties were examined by high-performance liquid chromatography and antibody staining. In addition, the structural changes of fingernail cross sections were examined after fingernails were immersed in an acetone-based nail polish remover solution. The acetone-treated fingernails had a lower water content and higher water evaporation than the inner forearm skin and healthy fingernails, suggesting that they had compromised moisturizing and barrier functions and were more susceptible to roughness and damage. These results also suggest that, compared to healthy fingernails, rough fingernails are more prone to breakage and damage. Furthermore, it was found that the amount of ceramide decreased when fingernails were immersed in nail polish remover solution. The distribution showed ceramide to be present in the ventral and dorsal regions of the free edge of the fingernail plate. After immersion in nail polish remover, the three-layered structure of the free edge of the plate was intact, but the dorsal distal edge of the plate peeled off. Gaps were observed inside the free edge of the plate, which should have been layered. These results show that the frequent use of nail polish remover may worsen condition of fingernails. Full article

An obvious sign of ageing is the loss of hair colour due to a decrease or lack of melanin in hair fibres. An examination of the lipid levels and structure of grey hair determined using µ–FTIR revealed a high correlation between the characteristics of lipids located in the cuticle and the water dynamics of the fibres. Therefore, a deep study based on external and internal lipid extraction, an analysis using thin layer chromatography coupled to an automated flame ionisation detector, calorimetric analyses and the physico-chemical evaluation of the delipidated fibres were performed. Hairs were evaluated to identify changes in the organisation of these lipids using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and their effect on the water dynamics of the fibres. The primary differences observed for the lipid extracts from white hair compared to brown hair were the lower amount of the internal lipids extracted, which were primarily composed of free fatty acids (FFAs) and ceramides, with a higher content of lower phase transition peaks, indicating increased unsaturated compounds that promote higher fluidity of the lipid bilayers. The virgin white fibres exhibited lower levels of embedded water, with lower binding energies and higher water diffusion, indicating higher permeability. The IR study confirmed the low lipid levels and the greater disorder of white hair. These results may be of interest for cosmetic treatments to which patients with grey hair may be subjected. Full article

Technological innovation in the cosmetic field must necessarily consider not only the safety and efficacy requirements but also the growing attention to environmental issues and the need for sensory pleasure during application to satisfy the consumers’ expectations. This work aimed to formulate an oil-in-water fluid emulsion stabilized by the combination of organic and inorganic powders, namely Zea mays starch and zinc oxide associated at different ratios in presence of a polysaccharidic rheological modifier. After verifying the physical stability of the prototypes with a mechanical stress test in a centrifuge, the rheological analyses were conducted in continuous and oscillatory flow conditions, and the immersion/de-immersion test, conducted using a texture analyzer, allowed identifying the system with the viscoelastic characteristics and the parameters of textures, such as firmness, consistency, and adhesiveness, more suitable for the formulation of skin-care products with low viscosity and high spreadability. Finally, we studied the compatibility of the powders with sunscreen filters and pigments, to optimize the systems and assess their potential use in finished products. Full article

The antimicrobial effect of a cream containing extracts of African geranium (Pelargonium sidoides DC.), black elderberry (Sambucus nigra L.), and St. John’s wort (Hypericum perforatum L.) in colloidal nanosilver (AgNPs) at a concentration of 30 ppm, denoted as SILVER STOP^® cream (SS^® cream), was examined in vitro. The research was performed with Escherichia coli (ATCC and two clinical isolates), Staphylococcus aureus (ATCC and two clinical strains), and Candida albicans (ATCC and two clinical isolates). The agar-gel diffusion method and suspension tests for determination of the time of antimicrobial action of SS^® cream were used. SS^® cream showed significant antimicrobial activity. The Gram-negative microorganisms tested died in a much shorter time than the Gram-positive ones. In suspension with a density of 10⁴ cells·mL⁻¹, E. coli died for 1 min, the oval fungus C. albicans—after 10 min and S. aureus—after 60 min of exposure to SS^® cream. The highest sensitivity was found in E. coli. The curative effect of SILVER STOP^® cream was also examined in vivo in dogs with different skin diseases. The results showed successful healing of the diseases and a very good curative effect of the cream. Full article

Probiotics developed for topical applications in humans have the potential to beneficially modulate microbial imbalances on the skin surface and thereby improve skin health. This study was conducted to determine whether topical formulations containing the human skin commensal Micrococcus luteus strain Q24 (BLIS Q24) are safe, tolerable and efficacious when used by healthy human subjects. M. luteus Q24 was assessed in vitro for haemolytic activity and its antibiotic susceptibility profile. Formulations of strain Q24 were evaluated for the preliminary safety and tolerability in healthy human participants. Forty-seven adults were randomly assigned to four single-site, single-blind randomised placebo or baseline controlled or active-controlled trials. Skin swab samples were collected for differential viable counts to monitor levels of probiotic colonisation. M. luteus Q24 was found to be non-haemolytic and susceptible to commonly used antibiotics. The M. luteus Q24 formulations were safe and tolerable and >90% of the participants reported improvements from baseline in the appearance (e.g., radiance and hydration) of their treated skin. Additionally, participants observed a reduction in pore size, skin clarity and enhanced skin softness. No adverse effects were reported. A dose-related significant increase was observed in the levels of M. luteus Q24 isolated from skin swabs of the probiotic-treated subjects. Placebo-controlled trials in human subjects involving the topical application of different doses of M. luteus Q24 formulations were supportive of the safety, tolerability and efficacy of probiotic M. luteus Q24. Self-reported skin health assessments by the subjects indicated that M. luteus Q24 has good potential as a probiotic for improving skin health quality. Full article

Air pollution has considerable effects on the human skin, showing that every single pollutant has a different toxicological impact on it. The oxidative stress that exceeds the skin’s antioxidant capacity can lead to oxidative damage and premature skin aging by repeated air pollutant contact. In this study, according to the generalized protocol available to objectively substantiate the ‘anti-pollution’ claim, we evaluated several biomarkers after pollutants exposure in Raw 264.7 macro-phages and HaCaT keratinocytes to investigate the possibility of anti-pollution cosmetic material of fermented extract from Smilax china leaves (FESCL). FESCL decreased pollutants-induced luciferase activity in a dose-dependent manner, and FESCL significantly inhibited XRE-luciferase activity at a concentration of 1%. The IC₅₀ value of FESCL showed the same DPPH scavenging activity at 0.0625% as ascorbic acid, and the maximum DPPH scavenging activity (92.44%) at 1%. The maximum permissible non-cytotoxic concentrations of FESCL for a Raw 264.7 cell was determined to be 2%, where PGE₂ production of FESCL was inhibited by 78.20%. These results show the anti-pollution activity of FESCL against the pollutant-stimulated human living skin explants. In conclusion, we confirmed the anti-pollution potential of FESCL as one of the functional materials in cosmetic formulation. Full article

Organic materials have been the subject of numerous recent cosmetics studies. Plant extracts and/or plant-derived resources in the Middle East have significant potential in many cosmetic fields because they exhibit useful properties that promote the repair of cellular functions and improve skin conditions. Multiple organic substances from these resources have long-lasting environmental effects, extensive storage capacities, and affect human physiological activity. Recent studies have revealed that Commiphora myrrha (myrrh) and Boswellia serrata (frankincense) extracts can prevent aging, acne, and spots while enhancing skin moisture and suppleness. Given that myrrh and frankincense exhibit anti-inflammatory and antioxidant characteristics that significantly improve human health, their utilization in various cosmetic products has received attention from global cosmetic corporations. This review details the bioactive compounds and cosmeceutical properties of myrrh and frankincense and their use in cosmetic formulations. Full article

Polymer, lipid, and natural protein-based hair care nanocarriers are in preclinical testing. Nanomedicine has enhanced therapeutic efficacy and decreased side effects. This review examines herbal nanomedicine for hair care. We also reviewed the hair cycle, its morphology, and the mechanisms of herbal-based medicine that regulate the hair cycle to treat hair loss. Nano-formulations have better solubility, permeability, therapeutic efficacy, and prolonged distribution than standard herbal medicines. This review also discussed the nanotechnology barrier and nano formulations for hair loss and growth and includes a recent herbal nanomedicine study. Researchers interested in using herbs to treat hair problems and clinically translating hair care products may find the results presented significant. Full article

Aminocarbonyl proteins increase with age in the dermal layer. Gene Chip analysis of mRNA expression in human dermal fibroblasts cultured on collagen gels treated with glyceraldehyde as an aminocarbonyl protein and on untreated collagen gels showed a decrease in the amount of aquaporin 1 (AQP1) mRNA. In this study, we clarified the involvement of AQP1 in collagen gel contraction and the production of fibrillin 1 and type I collagen in cultured human dermal fibroblasts. In the experiment, AQP1 siRNA was transfected into cultured human dermal fibroblasts to deplete AQP1, and the cell motility and contractile activity of the collagen gel were assessed. The production of fibrillin 1 and type I collagen was also examined by RT–qPCR and antibody staining. AQP1 depletion decreased the collagen gel contractile activity, and both the amount of mRNA and the antibody staining of fibrillin 1 and type I collagen decreased. Furthermore, the depletion of AQP1 reduced the levels of F-actin and phosphorylated myosin light chain 2, suggesting their involvement in reductions of the motility and collagen gel contractile activity of fibroblasts. These findings suggest that AQP1 is an important biomolecule for cell motility in human dermal fibroblasts and that decreased motility results in decreased expression of extracellular matrix proteins such as fibrillin 1 and type I collagen. Full article

Eyebrow elevation and reshaping are common concerns that we handle in everyday practice, and we have noticed that the trend is shifting from a medical concern to a cosmetic one. Several eyebrow lift methods are available, both invasive and non-surgical. The method of choice depends on several factors, such as patient expectations and beliefs, financial budget, acceptance of downtime and the available tools in the practice. In this article, we review the recent literature on non-surgical eyebrow lift methods to provide an overview of the current state of this field. We discuss seven different methods for eyebrow lift and reshaping, including botulinum toxin, dermal fillers, fractional radiofrequency, high-intensity focused ultrasound, thermo-mechanical ablation, lasers, and threads. Moreover, we provide practical insight into the procedure, injection techniques, expected results, and patient satisfaction rate. Full article

3D printing (3DP) is a manufacturing technology that produces 3D objects from a design file using layer-by-layer deposition of material. It has already found applications in the healthcare and pharmaceutical industries, while its use in the field of topical delivery has been extensively studied in the last two decades. The aim of this study is to provide a comprehensive overview of the 3DP-based developments in topical delivery, with special emphasis on its current and potential use in the cosmetic field. This review covers the principles and main types of 3DP technology, production, and characteristics of two key 3DP skin delivery platforms (patches and microneedles—MNs), as well as topical active materials used, focusing on those for cosmetic application. A comprehensive search of peer-reviewed articles in relevant databases was performed (including PubMed, Wiley Online Library, Multidisciplinary Digital Publishing Institute, Kosmet, ScienceDirect and Scopus) from 2004 to date. The study concludes that 3D printed MNs would gain prevalence over patches for both pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications and that dissolving MNs have the highest potential among them. The use of 3DP technology appears to be a promising approach to the development of efficient personalised cosmetic delivery platforms. Full article

Background: There has been an increase in demand for cosmetic skin-whitening products with efficacy toward lightening skin tone. β-arbutin is an inhibitor of tyrosinase enzyme activity within the skin’s melanocytes, and so has shown considerable promise as a skin-lightening agent. It is, however, both hydrophilic and hygroscopic, which hinders its penetration of the skin to reach these melanocytes. Chitosan (CS) possesses considerable penetration-enhancing properties when utilized in topical delivery formulations. The strong affinity of positively charged chitosan nanoparticles toward negatively charged biological membranes can be exploited to achieve site-specific targeting. Objective: To investigate the use of chitosan nanoparticles (CSNPs) as carrier units to enhance the topical delivery of β-arbutin. Method: CSNPs containing β-arbutin were prepared using an ionic cross-linking method, and entrapment efficiency and loading capacity were evaluated at numerous β-arbutin concentrations. Further characterization involved using FTIR, XRD, TEM, and TGA, and in vitro permeation studies were conducted using in vitro Franz diffusion cells. Results: β-arbutin chitosan nanoparticles were successfully formulated with a size range of 211–289 d.nm, a polydispersity index between 0.2–0.3, and zeta potential in the range 46.9–64.0 mV. The optimum encapsulation efficiency (EE) and loading capacity (LC) of β-arbutin were 68% and 73%, respectively. TEM revealed the nanoparticles to be spherical in shape. FTIR spectra revealed characteristic chitosan-related peaks appearing at 3438.3 cm⁻¹ (-OH stretching) and 3320 cm⁻¹ (-CH stretching), together with 1598.01 cm⁻¹ (-NH₂) specific to β-arbutin nanoparticles. XRD analysis revealed an increase in crystallinity and TGA analyses identified increasing thermal stability with increasing β-arbutin concentration. In vitro studies indicated higher permeation and improved penetration of β-arbutin loaded in CSNPs compared to its free form. Conclusion: CSNPs present considerable promise as effective carriers for improved topical delivery of β-arbutin. Full article