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Discovering and Exploiting Natural Cosmetic Materials and Their Functional Mechanisms

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A special issue of Cosmetics (ISSN 2079-9284).

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (30 November 2020) | Viewed by 50331

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Special Issue Editors

Prof. Dr. Chang-Gu Hyun

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Guest Editor

Department of Chemistry and Cosmetics, Jeju National University, Jeju 63243, Republic of Korea
Interests: natural product chemistry; melanogenesis; skin inflammation; anti-aging; hair growth
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Prof. Dr. Seung-Young Kim

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor

Department of Pharmaceutical Engineering & Biotechnology, Sunmoon University, Chungnam 31460, Korea
Interests: natural product and chemistry; cosmetics; microbiology; chemical biology

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Natural products provide an interesting, largely unexplored source for the development of potential new cosmetic ingredients. As reflected in these facts, the global market demand for natural cosmetic ingredients such as plant extracts that can be used for depigmenting, antiwrinkle, and other cosmeceutical uses is also increasing. In fact, many global companies around the world are trying to develop inhibitors or activators related to collagen synthesis, melanogenesis, and skin inflammation. In addition, smart consumers using cosmetics tend to carefully review the mechanism of action of these inhibitors or activators.

Accordingly, this Special Issue on “Discovering and Exploiting Natural Cosmetic Materials and Their Functional Mechanisms” is aimed at presenting novel data on natural products and single compounds with skin protection and improvement activities, at either the enzymatic or the cellular levels through original papers and short communications, but also to provide an overview of the current knowledge in this field through reviews.

Prof. Dr. Chang-Gu Hyun
Prof. Dr. Seung-Young Kim
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Cosmetics is an international peer-reviewed open access semimonthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 1800 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

natural products
antioxidant
enzymatic activities
melanogenesis
collagen synthesis
skin inflammation

Published Papers (6 papers)

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Research

Jump to: Review

10 pages, 2431 KiB

Open AccessCommunication

Anti-Melanogenic Effects of Paederia foetida L. Extract via MAPK Signaling-Mediated MITF Downregulation

by You Chul Chung, Jung No Lee, Bong Seok Kim and Chang-Gu Hyun

Cosmetics 2021, 8(1), 22; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics8010022 - 15 Mar 2021

Cited by 9 | Viewed by 3294

Abstract

In this study, in order to explore the anti-melanogenic effect of PFE (Paederia foetida L. extract) and suggest its availability, B16F10 cells, which are murine melanoma cells, were stimulated with alpha-Melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) to conduct an in vitro experiment. Treatment with PFE in B16F10 cells with activated melanogenesis due to stimulants showed that PFE significantly inhibits melanin content as well as intracellular tyrosinase activity within a range that does not cause cytotoxicity. In addition, Western blot assay demonstrated that PFE strongly inhibited the protein expression of not only tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1, -2, and tyrosinase, but also microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF). Moreover, mechanism studies have shown that PFE processing inhibited the activation of melanin production by regulating the phosphorylation of each mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) family in the MAPK signaling pathway. To test the biocompatibility of PFE on human skin, a primary skin irritation test was performed. The results revealed that PFE did not have any side effects on human skin. These findings suggest that PFE holds great potential as a skin whitening agent and in the prevention of hyperpigmentation disorders. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Discovering and Exploiting Natural Cosmetic Materials and Their Functional Mechanisms)

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8 pages, 1634 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Inhibitory Effect of Manassantin B Isolated from Saururus chinensis on Skin Heat Aging

by Hwa Sun Ryu, Jeong-Yeon Choi, Kyeong-Sun Lee, Jung-No Lee, Chun Mong Lee and Sung-Min Park

Cosmetics 2020, 7(2), 47; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7020047 - 16 Jun 2020

Viewed by 3572

Abstract

Heat shock treatment-induced skin aging causes a thickened epidermis, increased matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 expression, collagen degradation, and deep wrinkles. In this study, we investigated the effect of manassantin B in preventing heat shock treatment-induced aging. We first separated manassantin B (MB) from the roots of Saururus chinensis, and the structure was identified using ¹H- and ¹³C-NMR spectroscopy. RT-PCR and western blotting were applied to investigate the anti-aging effect of manassantin B. Manassantin B decreased MMP-1 expression through transient receptor potential vanilloid (TRPV) 1 channel inhibition and significantly increased procollagen expression. In addition, manassantin B suppressed MAPK phosphorylation in a dose-dependent manner. Our results suggest that manassantin B, the active ingredient in S. chinensis, can be effectively used to inhibit heat shock treatment-induced skin aging. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Discovering and Exploiting Natural Cosmetic Materials and Their Functional Mechanisms)

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13 pages, 3811 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Solid Lipid Nanoparticles (SLNs) with Potential as Cosmetic Hair Formulations Made from Otoba Wax and Ultrahigh Pressure Homogenization

by Sandra Rubiano, Juan D. Echeverri and Constain H. Salamanca

Cosmetics 2020, 7(2), 42; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7020042 - 4 Jun 2020

Cited by 8 | Viewed by 5166

Abstract

The development and physicochemical characterization of solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) with potential for formulating hair cosmetic products were carried out. SLNs were made from Otoba wax, which is native to the tropical Andean region and has a high chemical composition of fatty acids with intermediate chains. SLNs were formulated by preparing wax-in-water dispersions at two internal phase proportions (low = 5% w/w and high = 20% w/w), using the same ratio of surfactant system and preservatives. The coarse dispersions were subjected to ultrahigh pressure homogenization (UHPH), and thermal stability assays for 4 weeks were carried out, where changes in Creaming Index, droplet size, polydispersity, viscosity, zeta potential, conductivity, and pH were evaluated. The results showed that Otoba wax has a required HLB value around 9 and is mainly composed of lauric (~35%) and myristic (~45%), which have been reported to improve the condition of hair loss. Regarding the development on SLNs, it was found that the internal phase concentration did not considerably affect the physicochemical and microbiological properties. Likewise, it was found that UHPH enabled the production of SLNs with particle sizes <200 nm, low polydispersity (<0.3), high zeta potential values, and suitable physical and microbiological stability. Therefore, Otoba wax has potential for the development of SLNs applicable to cosmetic formulations, especially for hair products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Discovering and Exploiting Natural Cosmetic Materials and Their Functional Mechanisms)

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12 pages, 2141 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Broussonetia papyrifera Promotes Hair Growth Through the Regulation of β-Catenin and STAT6 Target Proteins: A Phototrichogram Analysis of Clinical Samples

by Young Han Lee, Gaewon Nam, Myong-Ki Kim, Seok-Cheol Cho and Bu Young Choi

Cosmetics 2020, 7(2), 40; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7020040 - 1 Jun 2020

Cited by 4 | Viewed by 5579

Abstract

Broussonetia papyrifera (B.papyrifera), belonging to the Moraceae family, is known to elicit anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, anticancer, antinociceptive, and antimicrobial effects. The present study has been designed to examine the effects of B. papyrifera extract on hair growth through in vitro and clinical samples. Real-time cell growth assay, T-cell factor/lymphoid enhancer-binding factor (TCF/LEF), activation of signal transducer and activator of transcription-6(STAT6) and STAT3 reporter gene function, and Western blotting was performed to examine whether B. papyrifera regulates the expression of target proteins implicated in the proliferation of human hair follicle dermal papilla (hHFDP) cells. In this human trial, using a phototrichogram, the effect of B. papyrifera on hair growth was examined by reconstitution analysis after shaving the hair of the clinical subject’s dorsal skin. B. papyrifera promoted growth equally in hHFDP cells, which is comparable to that of minoxidil and tofacitinib. Treatment with B. papyrifera extract enhanced the TCF/LEF-luciferase activity and increased the level of β-catenin protein. Moreover, B. papyrifera extract significantly suppressed interleukin-4 (IL4)-induced STAT6 phosphorylation. In clinical trial, using a phototrichogram, we assessed the hair density and total hair counts at 0, 6, and 12 weeks after the use of hair tonic containing B. papyrifera extract. After using the hair tonic for 12 weeks, the total hair count was significantly increased as compared with the subjects at the start date (n = 11). B. papyrifera promotes dermal papilla cells proliferation in vitro and clinically among human volunteers through the regulation of WNT-β-catenin and STAT6 pathways. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Discovering and Exploiting Natural Cosmetic Materials and Their Functional Mechanisms)

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15 pages, 2954 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Antioxidant Activities of Jeju Wax Apple (Syzygium samarangense) and Safety of Human Keratinocytes and Primary Skin Irritation Test

by Su Bin Hyun, Sungmin Bae and Chang-Gu Hyun

Cosmetics 2020, 7(2), 39; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7020039 - 23 May 2020

Cited by 6 | Viewed by 5256

Abstract

This study analyzed the antioxidant activity, cell viability, and human skin primary irritation test using the hot-water extracts of the Syzygium samarangense. As a result of the recent warmer climate, tropical plants have flourished on Jeju Island, and S. samarangense is one of these plants known to have biological activities. In this study, the hot-water extract of S. samarangense leaf and branch was analyzed. Antioxidant activity was measured by DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) and ABTS (2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethyl-benzthiazoline-6-sulfonic acid)) assays, and the DMPD (dimethyl-4-phenylenediamine) radical scavenging activity, nitrite scavenging activity, ferrous-ion chelating activity, cupric reducing antioxidant capacity, reducing power assay, ferric reducing antioxidant power, total phenol content, and total flavonoid content were also measured. In addition, cell viability was measured by MTT assay in human keratinocyte cells (HaCaT), and the safety of the extract for use on the skin was evaluated in the human skin primary irritation test. The antioxidant activities, except DMPD radical scavenging activity and ferrous-ion chelating activity, were stronger in the branch extract than in leaf extract, and the total phenol and flavonoid contents were also higher in the branch extract. Slight irritation was observed in the human skin primary irritation test. However, it was possible to observe sufficient antioxidant capacity at a concentration lower than the concentration used in the irritation test; therefore, if the concentration of the extract is appropriately adjusted, this suggests that it is a possible natural material suitable for use in cosmetics. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Discovering and Exploiting Natural Cosmetic Materials and Their Functional Mechanisms)

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Review

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17 pages, 1711 KiB

Open AccessReview

Rosmarinus officinalis L. (Rosemary): An Ancient Plant with Uses in Personal Healthcare and Cosmetics

by Francisco José González-Minero, Luis Bravo-Díaz and Antonio Ayala-Gómez

Cosmetics 2020, 7(4), 77; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics7040077 - 3 Oct 2020

Cited by 48 | Viewed by 26536

Abstract

This work is a bibliographical review of rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) that focuses on the application of derivatives of this plant for cosmetic products, an application which has been recognized and valued since Ancient Egyptian times. Rosemary is a plant of Mediterranean origin that has been distributed throughout different areas of the world. It has many medicinal properties, and its extracts have been used (mainly orally) in folk medicine. It belongs to the Labiatae family, which contains several genera—such as Salvia, Lavandula, and Thymus—that are commonly used in cosmetics, due to their high prevalence of antioxidant molecules. Rosemary is a perennial shrub that grows in the wild or is cultivated. It has glandular hairs that emit fragrant volatile essential oils (mainly monoterpenes) in response to drought conditions in the Mediterranean climate. It also contains diterpenes such as carnosic acid and other polyphenolic molecules. Herein, the botanical and ecological characteristics of the plant are discussed, as well as the main bioactive compounds found in its volatile essential oil and in leaf extracts. Afterward, we review the applications of rosemary in cosmetics, considering its preservative power, the kinds of products in which it is used, and its toxicological safety, as well as its current uses or future applications in topical preparations, according to recent and ongoing studies. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Discovering and Exploiting Natural Cosmetic Materials and Their Functional Mechanisms)

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