Journal Description
Cosmetics
Cosmetics
is an international, scientific, peer-reviewed, open access journal on the science and technology of cosmetics published bimonthly online by MDPI.
- Open Access— free for readers, with article processing charges (APC) paid by authors or their institutions.
- High Visibility: indexed within Scopus, ESCI (Web of Science), CAPlus / SciFinder, and other databases.
- Journal Rank: CiteScore - Q1 (Surgery) / CiteScore - Q1 (Dermatology)
- Rapid Publication: manuscripts are peer-reviewed and a first decision is provided to authors approximately 18 days after submission; acceptance to publication is undertaken in 6.6 days (median values for papers published in this journal in the second half of 2023).
- Recognition of Reviewers: reviewers who provide timely, thorough peer-review reports receive vouchers entitling them to a discount on the APC of their next publication in any MDPI journal, in appreciation of the work done.
Impact Factor:
3.3 (2022)
Latest Articles
Correction: Sritananuwat et al. Effectiveness and Safety of Boesenbergia rotunda Extract on 3T3-L1 Preadipocytes and Its Use in Capsaicin-Loaded Body-Firming Formulation: In Vitro Biological Study and In Vivo Human Study. Cosmetics 2024, 11, 24
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 66; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030066 (registering DOI) - 25 Apr 2024
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Open AccessArticle
Stability and Retention of Nanoemulsion Formulations Incorporating Lavender Essential Oil
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Konstantina Flekka, Virginia D. Dimaki, Elena Mourelatou, Konstantinos Avgoustakis, Fotini N. Lamari and Sophia Hatziantoniou
Cosmetics 2024, 11(3), 65; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11030065 (registering DOI) - 23 Apr 2024
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Lavender essential oil (LEO) is applied topically for its soothing properties, serving not only as an antiseptic in wound care but also as an insect repellent. This study investigates the impact of carrier systems on LEO encapsulation, stability, and release kinetics for potential
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Lavender essential oil (LEO) is applied topically for its soothing properties, serving not only as an antiseptic in wound care but also as an insect repellent. This study investigates the impact of carrier systems on LEO encapsulation, stability, and release kinetics for potential skincare applications. The LEO carrier impact on skin hydration and barrier function was also evaluated. Conventional emulsions (CEs) and nanoemulsions (NEs) with (CELs and NELs, respectively) and without LEO incorporation were analyzed for physicochemical properties, stability, and release mechanisms. The droplet size distribution and ζ-potential remained consistent in both CE and CEL, showing the minimal influence of LEO on those parameters. NE and NEL exhibited enhanced stability and higher LEO retention compared to CE and CEL (37.38 mg/mL ± 0.48 mg/mL and 50.96 mg/mL ± 2.00 mg/mL, respectively, p < 0.05), suggesting NE as a superior carrier system for LEO delivery. NEL retained LEO over 60 days at 4 °C without a significant reduction while CEL showed a notable reduction of 94.93% ± 0.08%. Release kinetics analysis showed zero-order release kinetics of LEO from both CEL and NEL (R2: 0.973 and 0.952, respectively), revealing a diffusion-based mechanism, particularly evident in NE formulations, supporting the controlled and sustained release of LEO constituents. NEL also promoted quicker skin barrier repair and enhanced skin hydration, sustaining effects for up to 120 min post application, surpassing CEL’s performance. These findings contribute to understanding the carrier system effects on LEO delivery and underscore NE as a promising vehicle for skincare applications. Further research should explore underlying mechanisms and conduct long-term safety and efficacy studies to fully exploit the therapeutic potential of NE in dermatological applications.
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Open AccessArticle
Impact of Hair Damage on the Penetration Profile of Coconut, Avocado, and Argan Oils into Caucasian Hair Fibers
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Carolina Botelho Lourenço, Rebeca Mantuan Gasparin, Fernanda Malanconi Thomaz, Gustavo Carlos da Silva, Airton Abrahao Martin, Ana Cláudia Paiva-Santos and Priscila Gava Mazzola
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 64; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020064 - 21 Apr 2024
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The mitigation of damaged hair conditions involves the application and penetration of substances to stabilize broken bond sites, restore lipids and proteins, reinstate hydrophobicity, and recover hair mechanical properties. Vegetable oils, in general, exhibit a list of advantageous characteristics much desired by consumers,
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The mitigation of damaged hair conditions involves the application and penetration of substances to stabilize broken bond sites, restore lipids and proteins, reinstate hydrophobicity, and recover hair mechanical properties. Vegetable oils, in general, exhibit a list of advantageous characteristics much desired by consumers, given the associated benefits for hair fibers. While coconut oil is highly popular in the hair care market and extensively studied for its ability to diffuse through the hair cortex, the effects of avocado and argan oil on the internal structure of hair and their potential benefits remain underexplored. Tensile and fatigue tests, as well as Raman spectroscopy, were carried out to investigate the interaction of these three oils with virgin and bleached Caucasian hair. The oils were applied in sufficient amounts directly to hair tresses and maintained for 24 h at 25 °C. Our results show that the three oils successfully diffused and interacted with the cortical region of the hairs. Their impact on hair mechanical properties depends on the level of damage and humidity conditions. In virgin hair, coconut and avocado oil reinforce the hydrophobic barrier of the cellular membrane complex, preventing water from causing intense perturbation of the mechanical properties, leading to increased stiffness and break stress. Meanwhile, due to the high degree of unsaturation of its fatty acid chains, argan oil increases water absorption, resulting in losses in hair resistance. When bleached, the hydrophilicity of the hair fiber increases, determining more affinity for argan oil. Consequently, the affinity with water is also elevated, causing increased fragility to mechanical stress. The analyzed vegetable oils are not always beneficial for hair care. Their specific chemical characteristics and hair conditions will influence the final results and should be taken into consideration in hair care product development.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Recent Advance in Hair Science and Hair Care Technologies: 2nd Edition)
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Preparation and Characterization of a Topical Delivery System for Nanoemulsions Using a Composite Film of Pectin and Tapioca
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Luciana Agostinho and Pedro Rocha-Filho
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 63; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020063 - 18 Apr 2024
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Nanoemulsions represent a remarkable class of colloidal systems that play a pivotal role in the encapsulation, protection, and targeted delivery of active ingredients to the skin. One of the primary objectives in skincare science is to maximize the interaction between the active ingredients
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Nanoemulsions represent a remarkable class of colloidal systems that play a pivotal role in the encapsulation, protection, and targeted delivery of active ingredients to the skin. One of the primary objectives in skincare science is to maximize the interaction between the active ingredients and the skin. This can be achieved through various mechanisms, two of which are occlusion and extended contact of the formulation with the skin. Cosmetic masks can be used to improve the skin’s hydration by creating a barrier that minimizes transepidermal water loss while acting as a repository of the active ingredient, increasing the skin’s absorption of the formulation’s active ingredients. In order to diminish the environmental impact, natural-polymeric-material masks are being used, as an alternative to synthetic materials, for its biocompatibility and biodegradability. In this work pectin and tapioca starch were used to develop a polymeric mask to deliver a rice bran oil nanoemulsion and study some characteristics of the final product. The results show that the association of pectin and tapioca starch can be used to produce a film that can be molded and shows occlusive effects, besides being flexible and compatible with the skin.
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Open AccessArticle
Potential Benefits of a Cosmetic Ingredient Combining Thermal Spring Water and Diatom Algae Extract
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Maria Lourdes Mourelle, Jordi Segura de Yebra, Jordi Ayats, Maria Vitale and Ana López Sánchez
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 62; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020062 - 17 Apr 2024
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The development of cosmetic ingredients improving the management of skin with irritation proclivity is an actual need. However, medical recommendations in specific cases, such as sensitive skin, include the use of as few and low-reactive ingredients as possible. In this context, we here
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The development of cosmetic ingredients improving the management of skin with irritation proclivity is an actual need. However, medical recommendations in specific cases, such as sensitive skin, include the use of as few and low-reactive ingredients as possible. In this context, we here describe the development of a new ingredient consisting of a mixture of thermal water and a diatom algae extract. First, we characterized a thermal spring water (La Solia, LS-TSW). Attending to its chemical composition, LS-TSW displayed an exclusive combination of different inorganic elements, with interesting potential properties when compared with other commercial spring waters. Then, LS-TSW hydrobiome was studied, and after finding specimens of Phaeodactylum-like sp., we proposed potentiating LS-TSW benefits with its combination with an oil extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum (PtOE). Finally, we assessed the potential of the mixture during pro-inflammatory stimulation, in the first instance using an immune cell model, and then in an in vitro system mimicking keratinocytes under skin irritation. In the last-mentioned model, the ingredient of interest effectively attenuated the induced levels of different pro-inflammatory mediators (IL-6, IL-1, TNFα, NF-κB, and CCL1), at the level of gene expression. Thus, our results highlight the potential benefits of this combination in the context of skin irritation, opening roads for its use in new skincare regimens, and addressing an important dermatological concern.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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Open AccessCommunication
Blending Hyaluronic Acid and Calcium Hydroxylapatite for Injectable Facial Dermal Fillers: A Clinical and Ultrasonography Assessment
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Bruna Bravo, Raquel Carvalho, Leonardo Bravo, Laís Penedo and Mariana Elias
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 61; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020061 - 17 Apr 2024
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Both hyaluronic acid (HA) and calcium hydroxylapatite (CaHA) fillers have well-established indications in cosmetic medicine. Nevertheless, limited data are available on the effectiveness of combining CaHA and HA. The purpose of this report was to demonstrate the safety, tolerability, and clinical and ultrasonographic
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Both hyaluronic acid (HA) and calcium hydroxylapatite (CaHA) fillers have well-established indications in cosmetic medicine. Nevertheless, limited data are available on the effectiveness of combining CaHA and HA. The purpose of this report was to demonstrate the safety, tolerability, and clinical and ultrasonographic improvement of facial skin laxity using a blending technique that admixes HA and CaHA. Fifteen regular patients, including three men, between 25 and 71 years of age were reported. The participants were subjects who came regularly to the dermatologic office seeking a lifting effect without surgery. They were submitted to injection of an admixture of HA and CaHA and followed for 180 days. The clinical assessment consisted of photographic evaluation by two blind investigators, and a consensual subjective evaluation was performed by the physicians (PGAIS) using the five-point Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale. Dermal thickness was analyzed in jaw areas using high-frequency ultrasound. Subjects completed a satisfaction questionnaire with responses scored according to the five-point Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale (GAIS) to evaluate patient satisfaction. After 180 days of follow-up, clinical assessments by blinded physicians found that all patients improved. All the participants were highly satisfied with the results and reported exceptional improvement. Dermal thickness increased by 9.4% (8.2–10.8%), 14.0% (12.2–15.9%), and 18.8% (16.2–21.9%) at D90, D120, and D180, respectively, by ultrasonography. In conclusion, an injection technique using an admixture of CaHA and HA fillers was well tolerated, offering high satisfaction and long-lasting progressive benefits. The authors believe that this procedure optimizes the treatment time and results because HA promotes early volume restoration and CaHA stimulates long-term dermal remodeling through the synthesis of collagen and elastin.
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Open AccessArticle
Eco-Designing Cosmetic Products while Preserving the Sensorial-Application Properties: An Instrumental Approach toward Sustainable Formulations
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Giovanni Tafuro, Alessia Costantini, Mario Piatto, Silvia Lucchetti, Stefano Francescato, Laura Busata, Giovanni Baratto and Alessandra Semenzato
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 60; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020060 - 15 Apr 2024
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Driven by growing environmental concerns and regulations, cosmetic companies are seeking reliable methods to promptly assess the possibility of replacing high-impact ingredients with sustainable alternatives. In this work, we exploited rheological and texture analyses to evaluate the possibility of using natural and biodegradable
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Driven by growing environmental concerns and regulations, cosmetic companies are seeking reliable methods to promptly assess the possibility of replacing high-impact ingredients with sustainable alternatives. In this work, we exploited rheological and texture analyses to evaluate the possibility of using natural and biodegradable raw materials for reformulating three commercial oil-in-water skin care emulsions from an eco-design perspective. Synthetic texturizers, like nylon-12 and PMMA, were replaced with starch, maltodextrin, and silica, while acrylic rheological modifiers were substituted with polysaccharide associations of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, diutan gum, and carrageenan. Plant-based emollients and a biodegradable elastomer were used as alternatives to silicone oils. The flow and viscoelastic properties of the samples were characterized using rheological tests under continuous and oscillatory flow conditions. The immersion/de-immersion texture analysis allowed us to measure the mechanical properties of firmness, adhesiveness, and stringiness. A double-blind sensory test assessed the products’ application and sensory characteristics. The results revealed that rheology and texture analysis are complementary and correlated techniques, useful for predicting cosmetics’ sensory characteristics. While perfect replication of the original formulas might not be achievable, this protocol can aid formulators in selecting new eco-friendly ingredients ensuring the products’ desired application and sensory properties without compromising consumer experience.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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Formulation and Characterization of Non-Toxic, Antimicrobial, and Alcohol-Free Hand Sanitizer Nanoemulgel Based on Lemon Peel Extract
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Faten Mohamed Ibrahim, Eman Samy Shalaby, Mohamed Azab El-Liethy, Sherif Abd-Elmaksoud, Reda Sayed Mohammed, Said I. Shalaby, Cristina V. Rodrigues, Manuela Pintado and El Sayed El Habbasha
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 59; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020059 - 12 Apr 2024
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Recently, hand sanitization has gained attention for preventing disease transmission. Many on-the-market convenient dermal sanitizers contain alcohol, which can be detrimental to the skin. Therefore, three nanoemulgel formulations (LN-F1, LN-F2, LN-F3) incorporating lemon peel extract (LE), and with various increasing concentrations of xanthan
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Recently, hand sanitization has gained attention for preventing disease transmission. Many on-the-market convenient dermal sanitizers contain alcohol, which can be detrimental to the skin. Therefore, three nanoemulgel formulations (LN-F1, LN-F2, LN-F3) incorporating lemon peel extract (LE), and with various increasing concentrations of xanthan gum as a gelling agent and stabilizer, were developed and characterized as a novel alternative. All formulations showed non-Newtonian shear-thinning flow behavior, particle size values below 200 nm, and increasing zeta potential with higher xanthan gum concentrations. All nanoemulgel formulations exhibited greater in vitro phenolic compound release than free LE. LN-F2 (1.0% LE, 20.0% mineral oil, 20.0% Span 80, 4.0% Cremophor RH 40, 4.0% PEG 400, 0.5% xanthan gum, 50.5% dH2O) was selected as the optimal formulation due to improved characteristics. LE and LN-F2 potential cytotoxicity was assessed on MA-104, showing no significant cellular morphological alterations up to 10 mg/mL for both samples. LN-F2 showed in vitro antimicrobial activity against E. coli, S. Typhimurium, P. aeruginosa, S. aureus, L. monocytogenes, and C. albicans, as well as antiviral activity against phiX 174, but no effect against rotavirus (SA-11). In vivo, LN-F2 presented a removal capacity of 83% to 100% for bacteria and 89% to 100% for fungi. These findings suggest that the formulated nanoemulgel holds potential as a safe and effective antiseptic, providing a viable alternative to commercial alcohol-based formulations.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Application of Plant-Based Molecules and Materials in Cosmetics)
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Open AccessArticle
Development of a Ready-to-Use Oxyresveratrol-Enriched Extract from Artocarpus lakoocha Roxb. Using Greener Solvents and Deep Eutectic Solvents for a Whitening Agent
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Krittanon Saesue, Pornnapa Thanomrak, Wipawan Prompan, Warakhim Punan, Nantaka Khorana, Wasinee Juprasert, Tammanoon Rungsang, Pattravee Thong-on and Jukkarin Srivilai
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 58; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020058 - 05 Apr 2024
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Oxyresveratrol (ORV) is naturally found in Artocapus lakoocha Roxb. (AL), similar to resveratrol. This AL extract has demonstrated considerable importance in dietary supplements and cosmetics for its anti-tyrosinase and antioxidant properties. There is a great demand for ORV in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical
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Oxyresveratrol (ORV) is naturally found in Artocapus lakoocha Roxb. (AL), similar to resveratrol. This AL extract has demonstrated considerable importance in dietary supplements and cosmetics for its anti-tyrosinase and antioxidant properties. There is a great demand for ORV in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. Traditionally, harsh solvents have been used to extract ORV from AL. This study aims to address this issue by introducing green technology with a ready-to-use extract for the enrichment of ORV extraction from AL using deep eutectic solvents (DESs). Thirty-three DESs were synthesized and characterized. The extraction efficiency of these DESs was evaluated by ORV content (g ORV/kg dried plant) and compared with the conventional solvents, analyzed by validated HPLC. Notably, two synthesized DESs, namely choline chloride/citric acid/water (2:1:3) (DES10) and choline chloride/xylose (1:1) (DES17), showed higher ORV content than the conventional solvents and were therefore selected for optimization of extraction conditions using Box–Behnken designs, considering three variable levels: time, temperature, and water as co-solvents. Interestingly, the biological activities of ORV-enriched extracts from DES10 and DES17 were evaluated, and the results showed that they were 74-fold and 252-fold more potent than kojic acid in terms of tyrosinase inhibitory activity. DES17 was 17-fold more potent antioxidants than ascorbic acid. The morphology of AL powder before and after extraction with DESs under SEM suggested that DESs have the same mechanism as classical organic solvents. These ORV-enriched extracts can be directly incorporated into cosmetic formulations and production scales without the need to prepare a stock solution and are therefore referred to as ready-to-use extracts. This study successfully pioneered the use of DESs for environmentally friendly and highly efficient ORV extraction from AL to produce ready-to-use extracts and applications for the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Natural Sources for Cosmetic Ingredients: Challenges and Innovations)
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Open AccessArticle
Nanoemulsions Containing Passiflora quadrangularis L. Fruit Extracts for Cosmetic Application and Skin Efficacy Study
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Nareekan Yanasan, Worrapon Wangkananon, Surapol Natakankitkul and Kanokwan Kiattisin
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 57; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020057 - 04 Apr 2024
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This study aimed to determine the anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, and anti-hyaluronidase activities of Passiflora quadrangularis fruit extracts (epicarp, mesocarp, endocarp, and seed), develop stable nanoemulsions, and evaluate the efficacy of the nanoemulsions containing extracts in human volunteers. The results indicated that the epicarp and
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This study aimed to determine the anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, and anti-hyaluronidase activities of Passiflora quadrangularis fruit extracts (epicarp, mesocarp, endocarp, and seed), develop stable nanoemulsions, and evaluate the efficacy of the nanoemulsions containing extracts in human volunteers. The results indicated that the epicarp and seed extracts exhibited collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase inhibition effects. Gallic acid was identified in the extracts, with the highest concentration found in the endocarp extract (1449.35 mg gallic acid/g extract) followed by the seed extract (839.63 mg gallic acid/g extract). The endocarp and seed extracts demonstrated good stability at different temperatures. Consequently, these extracts were selected for incorporation into nanoemulsions due to their high yield, excellent anti-tyrosinase and anti-aging activity, and good stability, making them suitable for cosmetic products. The nanoemulsions were prepared using the ultrasonication method, resulting in a particle size of 133.1 ± 0.8 nm, a polydispersity index of 0.33 ± 0.03, and a zeta potential of −61.8 ± 0.6 mV, indicating good stability. The nano-serum containing extracts was non-irritating and safe for the skin. Skin evaluation among human volunteers after 60 days of application revealed improvements in skin hydration and reduction in wrinkles. In conclusion, nanoemulsions containing P. quadrangularis fruit extracts have the potential to be effective cosmetic products.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Delivery Systems for Dermatologic and Dermocosmetics Products)
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Open AccessArticle
Permanent Makeup (PMU) Removal with Plant Origin Extracts
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Eleni Andreou, Efstathios Rallis, Sophia Hatziantoniou and Vasiliki Kefala
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 56; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020056 - 03 Apr 2024
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Permanent makeup (PMU) is a popular application for the correction of face and body imperfections. It can be applied over the facial area to correct the shape and color of eyebrows, to the eyelids to create permanent eyeliner shapes, and the lips to
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Permanent makeup (PMU) is a popular application for the correction of face and body imperfections. It can be applied over the facial area to correct the shape and color of eyebrows, to the eyelids to create permanent eyeliner shapes, and the lips to create permanent lipliner and lip shading features. Furthermore, its “medical” use on the scalp and men’s facial hair area to camouflage hair follicles and to cover hairless areas makes it popular for hair transplants. No matter how useful these procedures are, there are always mistakes and the factor of bad application which raises the number of patients who want to “remove” it or “correct” it on their face or body. In order to find a non-laser solution for PMU removal, we investigated the decolorization capacity of common plants and plant origin extracts on mouse models. Two methods were used for PMU decolorization. The first one included the use of traditional tattooing with needles combined with plant origin extracts applied over the tattooed area. The second one included the use of electroporation technology application with the combination of plant origin materials to remove the PMU colorants over the tattooed area. In both cases, the permanent makeup colorants for eyebrows, eyeliners, and lipliners were applied in vivo.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue New Advances in Medical and Cosmetic Dermatology)
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Open AccessReview
Wigs and Alopecia Areata: Psychosocial Impact and Economic Considerations
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Ashling Courtney and John C. Su
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 55; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020055 - 03 Apr 2024
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Alopecia areata (AA) presents a challenging and unpredictable condition associated with substantial psychosocial and financial burdens. A chronic, relapsing form of non-scarring hair loss, it affects approximately 0.1–0.2% of the population worldwide with a lifetime risk of 1.0% to 2.1%. The psychosocial implications
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Alopecia areata (AA) presents a challenging and unpredictable condition associated with substantial psychosocial and financial burdens. A chronic, relapsing form of non-scarring hair loss, it affects approximately 0.1–0.2% of the population worldwide with a lifetime risk of 1.0% to 2.1%. The psychosocial implications of AA, including its association with depression, anxiety, social phobia, employment disruption, and relationship challenges are well described. Significant economic costs of AA include those of healthcare, lost income, transportation, psychotherapy, and cosmetic accessories (wigs and hairpieces). However, wigs and hairpieces can contribute to enhanced self-esteem, confidence, and overall quality of life (QOL) in AA patients; these positive outcomes correlating with satisfaction in appearance. This article explores the role of wigs in addressing the aesthetic and emotional impact of AA, emphasizing their importance as potential coping mechanisms for individuals facing hair loss whilst also acknowledging possible barriers to their use. Different types of wigs and hairpieces, their respective advantages and disadvantages, and methods of attachment are thoroughly discussed, providing a comprehensive overview for both patients and healthcare professionals. Considering the economic impact of AA, this article explores the cost of wigs in Australia and available financial assistance programs. Wigs can play a pivotal role in rapidly addressing the multifaceted challenges posed by AA, offering time for psychosocial adaptation and delayed response to medical therapies. This review aims to provide valuable insights to inform evidence-based, practical, and personalized counselling of patients with AA and enable shared decision making about the utility of wigs and other cosmetic interventions for hair loss. Further research is warranted to explore differences in the optimal utilization of wigs between diverse sub-populations with AA.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue New Advances in Medical and Cosmetic Dermatology)
Open AccessReview
Current Knowledge and Regulatory Framework on the Use of Hyaluronic Acid for Aesthetic Injectable Skin Rejuvenation Treatments
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Jenny Allen and Kalliopi Dodou
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 54; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020054 - 03 Apr 2024
Abstract
Dermal injections of hyaluronic acid gel for aesthetic skin rejuvenation are becoming increasingly popular nowadays. Although these products are classified as medical devices, the regulations on their administration by licensed practitioners are still weak, whereas their manufacturers increasingly highlight and advertise the cellular
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Dermal injections of hyaluronic acid gel for aesthetic skin rejuvenation are becoming increasingly popular nowadays. Although these products are classified as medical devices, the regulations on their administration by licensed practitioners are still weak, whereas their manufacturers increasingly highlight and advertise the cellular effects that underpin the efficacy of these injections. In this review, we discuss all current knowledge on the mode of action of dermally injected hyaluronic acid and the potential toxicological implications, especially from crosslinked gels, in conjunction with the current global regulations. We also highlight the urgent need for further research to elucidate the therapeutic implications and underscore the imperative need for robust regulatory frameworks to safeguard public health. We conclude that dermal injections of hyaluronic acid have several therapeutic implications that warrant further research and that strict regulations must be applied to their manufacture/quality control and the required qualifications of licensed aesthetic injectors.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Treatment for Anti-aging and Rejuvenation)
Open AccessArticle
Unlocking the Potential: A Comprehensive Analysis of the Technological Properties and Consumer Perception of Shampoo Enriched with Patchouli Extract and Allantoin
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Ugnė Žlabienė, Erlita Bartkutė and Jurga Bernatonienė
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 53; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020053 - 02 Apr 2024
Abstract
Amidst a growing shift towards eco-friendly choices in personal care products, the challenge of formulating herbal shampoos with efficacy comparable to synthetic counterparts persists. This study investigates the potential of incorporating patchouli extract and allantoin as additives in anti-dandruff shampoo formulations, assessing their
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Amidst a growing shift towards eco-friendly choices in personal care products, the challenge of formulating herbal shampoos with efficacy comparable to synthetic counterparts persists. This study investigates the potential of incorporating patchouli extract and allantoin as additives in anti-dandruff shampoo formulations, assessing their impact on the technological properties of the product. With limited research on their efficacy, our investigation contributes valuable insights to the development of effective and consumer-friendly shampoos targeting dandruff concerns. Physicochemical characteristics (pH, surface tension, texture) were evaluated, alongside specific quality assessments such as wetting time, dirt dispersion, foaming, and cleaning action, in in vivo consumer research. Shampoo formulations incorporating 0.5% Patchoul’Up™ and 1% allantoin exhibited acceptable properties. However, the addition of plant-derived ingredients resulted in a beneficial decrease in surface tension (5.87%). Nevertheless, a decrease in cohesiveness (18%) over a 5-month period resulted in rheological changes, indicating potential instability (p < 0.05). While the consumer evaluation aligns with laboratory findings, continuous research is essential to ensure stability and validate the anti-dandruff potential of the formulation, both in vitro and in vivo. This involves expanding the number of volunteers, with a specific focus on individuals experiencing dandruff concerns, to assess the shampoo’s efficacy and impact on diverse user experiences.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Application of Plant-Based Molecules and Materials in Cosmetics)
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Open AccessArticle
A Sustainable Multistage Process for Immobilizing Bioactive Compounds on Layered Double Hydroxides
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Serena Coiai, Elisa Passaglia, Alice Telleschi, Werner Oberhauser, Maria-Beatrice Coltelli and Francesca Cicogna
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 52; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020052 - 02 Apr 2024
Abstract
Hybrid systems with antioxidant properties have been developed by integrating bioactive compounds derived from plant resources with layered double hydroxides (LDHs). Anion exchange has been used to substitute intercalated nitrate anions in Mg-Al LDH with carboxylate anions derived from trans-ferulic acid, rosmarinic acid,
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Hybrid systems with antioxidant properties have been developed by integrating bioactive compounds derived from plant resources with layered double hydroxides (LDHs). Anion exchange has been used to substitute intercalated nitrate anions in Mg-Al LDH with carboxylate anions derived from trans-ferulic acid, rosmarinic acid, and 18β-glycyrrhetinic acid. These organic compounds are known for their powerful antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties and are highly suitable for cosmetics, biomedicine, and food packaging. To enhance sustainability, a multistage procedure has been developed with the aim of recovering unexchanged carboxylate anions from residual reaction water, ensuring an environmentally friendly and easily scalable preparation process. The process, adapted for each of the three molecules, allows the production of a consistently high-quality hybrid product containing an organic fraction ranging from 10 to 48% by weight, depending on the specific molecule used. The immobilization of organic compounds has occurred either within the layers of LDH through intercalation or on the external surface through adsorption. Good antioxidant capacity has been exhibited by these powdered hybrid systems, as assessed through both the DPPH and linoleic acid/β-carotene tests. Sustainable production practices are enabled by this innovative approach, which also opens avenues for the development of advanced materials for diverse applications across various industries.
Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Advanced Cosmetic Sciences: Sustainability in Materials and Processes)
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Open AccessReview
Recent Advances in Microneedling-Assisted Cosmetic Applications
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Rania Hamed, Baraah Jehad Abu Nahia, Ahlam Zaid Alkilani, Yasmeen Al-Adhami and Rana Obaidat
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 51; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020051 - 02 Apr 2024
Abstract
Microneedling, also known as percutaneous collagen induction, using microneedling devices and fabricated microneedle patches, has been widely employed in cosmetic applications for acne scar treatment, skin care, hair loss, melasma, skin rejuvenation, and skin cancer. The micro-channels formed by microneedling through the stratum
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Microneedling, also known as percutaneous collagen induction, using microneedling devices and fabricated microneedle patches, has been widely employed in cosmetic applications for acne scar treatment, skin care, hair loss, melasma, skin rejuvenation, and skin cancer. The micro-channels formed by microneedling through the stratum corneum facilitate the delivery of cosmetic agents and stimulate collagen and elastin production by inducing the wound-healing cascade, keeping the skin shiny and wrinkle-free. Several cosmetic agents, such as ascorbic acid, hyaluronic acid, retinoids, niacinamide, and peptides, have been delivered by microneedling. This review aims to highlight the use of microneedling devices and fabricated microneedle patches in facilitating the delivery of cosmetic agents through the skin layers. Moreover, the differences between the microneedling devices, commonly used alone or in combinational treatments with topical formulations, are explored. Furthermore, the safety of microneedling in terms of skin irritation, pain sensation, skin or systemic infection, and chemical and biological materials used in the fabrication of microneedles is discussed.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics—Recent Advances and Perspectives)
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Open AccessCase Report
Histological, Clinical Assessment, and Treatment of a Permanent Filler Complication in the Upper Lip: A Case Report with 16-Year Follow-Up
by
Samuel Fiuza, Tiago Marques, Irving Padin, Maria Teresa Carvalho, Nelio Veiga, Juliana Campos Hasse Fernandes, Gustavo Vicentis Oliveira Fernandes and Patrícia Couto
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 50; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020050 - 01 Apr 2024
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There is a considerable increase in the use of substances and medical procedures aimed at changing the esthetics of the face, particularly the appearance of the lips. Permanent fillers such as polydimethylsiloxane, also called liquid silicone, are widely used, but their application for
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There is a considerable increase in the use of substances and medical procedures aimed at changing the esthetics of the face, particularly the appearance of the lips. Permanent fillers such as polydimethylsiloxane, also called liquid silicone, are widely used, but their application for facial esthetics is currently obsolete. Silicone belongs to this polymer family; its viscosity is determined by its degree of polymerization. Liquid injectable silicone is odorless, colorless, non-volatile, and oily to the touch. The substance is not altered by storage at room temperature and is not carcinogenic or teratogenic. However, the long-term complications remain a reality, as they can occur decades after the application. Thus, the goal of this case report was to present a complication after 16 years of treatment using liquid silicone. This case report involved a 52-year-old male with a complication of bilateral permanent filler in the upper lip performed 16 years ago, its surgical removal, and histological analysis. The patient had the first appointment at the University Dental Clinic—Universidade Católica Portuguesa (Viseu, Portugal) in April 2022, dissatisfied with his upper lip’s esthetic appearance and shape. He was not a smoker or diabetic but had hypertension and hypercholesterolemia and was medicated with Losartan, Hydrochlorothiazide, and Pitavastatin. No relevant findings were observed in the extraoral examination; he had bruxism and a good periodontal condition. The patient had an asymptomatic bilateral mass, hard to palpation, located on the upper lip due to permanent lip filling performed to increase its volume in 2006 associated with non-related generalized granules of Fordyce. The treatment options presented just observation or complete material removal in two surgical steps, which was the patient’s choice. Then, the first surgical procedure was performed under local anesthesia on the right side of the lip, one carpule of Lidocaine 2% with adrenaline 1:100,000, with a chalazion clamp, a diode laser for hemorrhagic control, and a simple suture. In this procedure, three fragments were biopsied: a cuboid measuring 1 × 1 × 0.8 cm and an irregular one consisting of two fragments that at one end of the piece were in continuity with each other, one measuring 1.6 × 0.5 × 0.4 cm and the other 2.5 × 0.6 × 0.5 cm. A similar macroscopic appearance in all the material, white in color, irregular surface, elastic, white section surface, or slightly fasciculate. The patient was medicated with Tylenol 500 mg thrice a day for two days. With 20-day intervals, the sutures from the first surgery were removed, as well as the foreign body from the upper lip on the left side, following the same surgical technique and medication. Histologically, it was possible to identify a chronic inflammatory, lymphoplasmacytic, and granulomatous reaction, with foreign body giant cells’ reaction, in relation to non-polarizable exogenous material due to the reaction to silicone. The most common complications are granulomas’ appearance and material displacement. The case report shows these granulomas are characterized as chronic low-caliber inflammation around the silicone. They have an unknown etiology but are probably multifactorial, from continuous trauma, friction or irritation, iatrogenic factors, infection, immunological mechanisms, and genetic and molecular variations, and can be highly related to the impurity of the injected material. This case brings the opportunity for health professionals to increase awareness of the long-term adverse effects of the silicone material used to fill the lip in order to make its application more predictable and conscious.
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Open AccessReview
Advancements in Regenerative Medicine for Aesthetic Dermatology: A Comprehensive Review and Future Trends
by
Federica Trovato, Stefano Ceccarelli, Simone Michelini, Giordano Vespasiani, Stefania Guida, Hassan Ibrahim Galadari, Steven Paul Nisticò, Laura Colonna and Giovanni Pellacani
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 49; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020049 - 31 Mar 2024
Abstract
The growing interest in maintaining a youthful appearance has encouraged an accelerated development of innovative, minimally invasive aesthetic treatments for facial rejuvenation and regeneration. The close correlation between tissue repair, regeneration, and aging has paved the way for the application of regenerative medicine
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The growing interest in maintaining a youthful appearance has encouraged an accelerated development of innovative, minimally invasive aesthetic treatments for facial rejuvenation and regeneration. The close correlation between tissue repair, regeneration, and aging has paved the way for the application of regenerative medicine principles in cosmetic dermatology. The theoretical substrates of regenerative medicine applications in dermo-aesthetics are plentiful. However, regenerative dermatology is an emerging field and needs more data and in vivo trials to reach a consensus on the standardization of methods. In this review, we summarize the principles of regenerative medicine and techniques as they apply to cosmetic dermatology, suggesting unexplored fields and future directions.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue New Advances in Medical and Cosmetic Dermatology)
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Open AccessReview
A Comprehensive Review of Essential Oil–Nanotechnology Synergy for Advanced Dermocosmetic Delivery
by
Redouane Achagar, Zouhair Ait-Touchente, Rafika El Ati, Khalid Boujdi, Abderrahmane Thoume, Achraf Abdou and Rachid Touzani
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 48; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020048 - 27 Mar 2024
Abstract
This review investigates the convergence of nanotechnology and essential oils in advanced dermocosmetic delivery. It outlines the pivotal role of inorganic and polymeric nanoparticles, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and gold nanocarriers, in cosmeceutical applications, facilitating slow release, deeper skin penetration, and
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This review investigates the convergence of nanotechnology and essential oils in advanced dermocosmetic delivery. It outlines the pivotal role of inorganic and polymeric nanoparticles, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and gold nanocarriers, in cosmeceutical applications, facilitating slow release, deeper skin penetration, and increased retention of active compounds. Essential oils, renowned for therapeutic benefits, face translation challenges due to volatility and low water solubility. This review explores the potential use of plant nanovesicles as carriers, emphasizing safety, stability, and scalability, offering a sustainable and cost-effective industrial application. Nanomaterial integration in consumer products, particularly cosmetics, is prevalent, with nanocarriers enhancing the permeation of bioactive compounds into deeper skin layers. The review emphasizes recent nanotechnological advancements, covering nanoparticle penetration, experimental models, and therapeutic applications in dermatology, ranging from non-invasive vaccination to transdermal drug delivery. Additionally, the review delves into nanomaterials’ role in addressing skin aging, focusing on tissue regeneration. Nanomaterials loaded with cosmeceuticals, such as phytochemicals and vitamins, are explored as promising solutions to mitigate signs of aging, including wrinkles and dry skin, providing innovative approaches to skin rejuvenation. Overall, the review offers a comprehensive synthesis of essential oil–nanoparticle synergy, shedding light on the current landscape and future potential of advanced dermocosmetic delivery systems.
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(This article belongs to the Collection Editorial Board Members' Collection Series: "Novel Delivery Systems for Dermocosmetic Applications")
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Open AccessReview
Innovative Strategies for Photoallergy Assessment: Breaking Free from Animal Models in Cosmetic Ingredient Development
by
Adriana Solange Maddaleno, Maria Pilar Vinardell and Montserrat Mitjans
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 47; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020047 - 25 Mar 2024
Abstract
Photoallergy, a unique form of skin sensitization induced by specific compounds under ultraviolet irradiation, has traditionally been investigated using animals. However, the prohibition of animal testing for the assessment of cosmetic ingredients in Europe and other countries underscores the necessity for in vitro
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Photoallergy, a unique form of skin sensitization induced by specific compounds under ultraviolet irradiation, has traditionally been investigated using animals. However, the prohibition of animal testing for the assessment of cosmetic ingredients in Europe and other countries underscores the necessity for in vitro or in silico alternative methods. Currently, there are no validated methods for assessing photoallergy or photosensitization, presenting a significant challenge in the development of new cosmetic ingredients. This review examines the landscape of alternative methods for detecting photosensitization, emphasizing recent publications, and considering the underlying principles of the different proposed assays.
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(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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