Modeling and Numerical Simulation of Ocean and Coastal Waves

Dear Colleagues,

Wind waves and swell play a decisive role in a number of oceanic and coastal issues, including the design of coastal and port protection structures, the exploitation of marine renewable energies, sediment transport and morphodynamic changes, the occurrence of extreme waves (rogue waves), the transport and dispersion of pollutants, etc.

Many physical processes affect ocean wave fields from the wind generation area in deep water to the shore or to coastal structures. During their propagation, over potentially long distances, wave trains are modified by interaction with the atmosphere, nonlinear wave–wave interactions, dissipation by white-capping, bottom friction or breaking, shoaling, refraction, wave–bottom interactions, as well as diffraction and reflection in the presence of islands, breakwaters, shoals or underwater landforms. Wave fields also interact with ambient flows, due to the tide, a river outlet, or ocean circulation currents.

The development of mathematical models capable of representing all these physical processes on waves, or at least the dominant phenomena, remains a subject of research that is still widely open. Different types of mathematical models exist, based on a phase-resolving or phase-averaged approach. These models introduce more or less simplified representations of the real sea-states, more or less strong approximations on the dispersive and nonlinear properties of waves, and the representation of certain physical processes or interactions with an ambient current field is more or less simplified or parameterized. Regarding the numerical methods, a range of techniques are employed to solve these models, e.g., finite difference, finite volume, finite element, and spectral methods.

The purpose of this Special Issue is to present the most recent advances in the field of mathematical modeling and numerical simulation of water waves, from the ocean domain to the coastal and port domains. Different spatial and temporal scales will be addressed, namely, oceanic domain, nearshore domain, coastal and coastal zone, and harbor domain. The presentation of novel mathematical models is encouraged, as well as the development of efficient and accurate numerical methods to simulate these models, with applications to real cases from the ocean to the shore.

Prof. Michel Benoit
Guest Editor

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• ocean waves
• coastal waves
• water wave modeling
• mathematical modeling
• numerical wave models
• wave dynamics