Cosmetics

30 pages, 6589 KB

Open AccessArticle

Characterization of Commercial Eye Shadows with Emphasis on Heavy Metal Exposure Risks to Human Health

by Rosa L. Alvarez-Gonzales, Elizabeth E. Yufra-Illanes, José A. Villanueva-Salas, Celia Choquenaira-Quispe, Angélica Corzo-Salas-De-Valdivia, Federico M. Malpartida-Quispe and Elvis G. Gonzales-Condori

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 185; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050185 - 27 Aug 2025

Abstract

Eye shadows are cosmetic products widely used to enhance appearance. However, the use of raw materials contaminated with heavy metals poses potential health hazards. This study characterized 12 commercial eye shadow samples and quantified concentrations of Al, Ba, B, Cu, Cr, Fe, Mn, [...] Read more.

Eye shadows are cosmetic products widely used to enhance appearance. However, the use of raw materials contaminated with heavy metals poses potential health hazards. This study characterized 12 commercial eye shadow samples and quantified concentrations of Al, Ba, B, Cu, Cr, Fe, Mn, Ni, Pb, V, and Zn using inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry (ICP-MS). Additional characterization using UV-vis, ATR-FTIR, and SEM-EDS techniques provided insights into the composition and potential sources of contamination. Multivariate analysis revealed differences in metal concentrations across brands. Health risk assessments, including margin of safety (MoS), hazard quotient (HQ), hazard index (HI), lifetime cancer risk (LCR), and lifetime cancer risk based on the long-term relevant daily systemic exposure dose (LCR′), indicated that one product may pose significant health risks. Specifically, sample M4 showed an HI of 2.67 × 10¹, exceeding acceptable limits. These findings highlight the need for stricter regulation and continuous monitoring of heavy metals in cosmetics to safeguard consumer health. Full article

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26 pages, 1789 KB

Open AccessArticle

Improved Tactile Receptivity and Skin Beauty Benefits Through Topical Treatment with a Hyacinthus orientalis Bulb Extract Shown to Activate Oxytocin Receptor Signaling

by Fabien Havas, Shlomo Krispin, Moshe Cohen and Joan Attia-Vigneau

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 184; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050184 - 26 Aug 2025

Abstract

The neuropeptide oxytocin (OXT) is involved in social bonding, reproduction, and childbirth. Its activity is mediated by the oxytocin receptor (OXTR), also expressed in the skin. OXT alleviates dermal fibroblast senescence, and OXT levels correlate with visible skin aging. OXT inhibits nociceptive signaling [...] Read more.

The neuropeptide oxytocin (OXT) is involved in social bonding, reproduction, and childbirth. Its activity is mediated by the oxytocin receptor (OXTR), also expressed in the skin. OXT alleviates dermal fibroblast senescence, and OXT levels correlate with visible skin aging. OXT inhibits nociceptive signaling and promotes neuronal plasticity. Here, we demonstrate OXT-like benefits of OXTR activation for skin touch sensoriality and nociception, as well as visible skin health and beauty indicators, using an aqueous extract of Hyacinthus orientalis bulbs. OXTR activation was evaluated in a Chinese hamster ovary (CHO) cell model. Nociception and innervation benefits were investigated in keratinocyte / sensory neuron coculture models. A placebo-controlled clinical study evaluated gentle touch receptivity, nociception, skin tone, elasticity, and wrinkling. The extract activated OXTR and enhanced dermal fibroblast proliferation in vitro. In the keratinocyte-neuron coculture, the HO extract lowered nociceptive CGRP release below that of the unstimulated and OXT controls and promoted neuronal survival and dendricity. An organ-on-a-chip coculture showed decreased electrical activity and increased neuronal peripherin. Clinically, we observed selective left-side frontal alpha-wave activation, indicating pleasant sensation, reduced nociception, enhanced skin glow, improved elasticity, and reduced wrinkling. This extract thus shows high value for holistic wellbeing solutions, enhancing the skin’s receptivity to pleasant sensations and promoting well-aging. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)

25 pages, 1726 KB

Open AccessReview

Optical Coherence Elastography—A Novel Non-Invasive Optical Method for Real-Time Determination of Substances Penetration and Associated Skin Dehydration

by Vladimir Y. Zaitsev, Yulia M. Alexandrovskaya, Alexander A. Sovetsky, Ekaterina M. Kasianenko, Alexander L. Matveyev, Dmitry V. Shabanov and Maxim E. Darvin

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 183; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050183 - 26 Aug 2025

Abstract

Non-invasive, in vivo assessment of target substances penetration into the skin remains a significant challenge in dermatology and cosmetology. While various optical methods have been employed for this purpose, each has inherent limitations. Here, we present a novel non-invasive imaging approach using optical [...] Read more.

Non-invasive, in vivo assessment of target substances penetration into the skin remains a significant challenge in dermatology and cosmetology. While various optical methods have been employed for this purpose, each has inherent limitations. Here, we present a novel non-invasive imaging approach using optical coherence elastography (OCE) to simultaneously determine the penetration depth of topically applied osmotically active substances in biological objects and associated water content changes with high sensitivity. Most substances are osmotically active and generate osmotic pressure proportional to their concentration, inducing deformations in biological objects. These osmotic strains can be visualized similarly to mechanical or thermal strains. Using OCE, we evaluated penetration and dehydration depth profiles in polyacrylamide gel phantoms, ex vivo cartilage, and porcine ear skin samples treated with aqueous glycerol solutions of varying concentrations. Additionally, the penetration and effect of jojoba oil were assessed in treated skin samples. The results are consistent with those obtained by other established methods, confirming the reliability and applicability of OCE. This technique offers unique capabilities not achievable with other optical methods, making it a valuable complementary tool for non-invasive studies. It holds significant promise for advancing both research and clinical applications in dermatology and cosmetology, including its potential translation to in vivo assessments. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)

28 pages, 2736 KB

Open AccessReview

Jaboticaba (Myrciaria cauliflora) Peel Extracts in Dermocosmetics: A Systematic Review Highlighting Antioxidant and Photoprotective Research Gaps

by Jovane Santana Silva, Clayton Pereira de Sá, Márcio Gonçalves dos Santos, Catarina Rosado, Fábia Rafaella Silva Alves, André Rolim Baby and Yohandra Reyes Torres

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 182; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050182 - 26 Aug 2025

Abstract

This paper presents a literature review on the potential of jaboticaba (Myrciaria cauliflora) peel extracts for application in multifunctional dermocosmetic formulations, particularly as natural antioxidants and photoprotective agents. Utilizing the Methodi Ordinatio methodology, of a total of 1226, 90 scientific articles [...] Read more.

This paper presents a literature review on the potential of jaboticaba (Myrciaria cauliflora) peel extracts for application in multifunctional dermocosmetic formulations, particularly as natural antioxidants and photoprotective agents. Utilizing the Methodi Ordinatio methodology, of a total of 1226, 90 scientific articles were selected from six major databases and analyzed through bibliometric mapping (VOSviewer) and qualitative data processing (MAXQDA). The results highlight research concentration in three key areas: (1) extraction methodologies for bioactive compounds, (2) identification and quantification techniques, and (3) biological activities (antioxidant and photoprotective effects). The most frequent compounds reported were anthocyanins (cyanidin-3-glucoside and delphinidin-3-glucoside), quercetin-derived flavonoids (rutin and myricetin), and phenolic acids (ellagic, gallic, and ferulic acids), which exhibit synergistic effects with conventional UV filters. Ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) using ethanol and emerging green solvents, like glycerol and deep eutectic solvents (DESs), was identified as an effective, sustainable alternative. Despite increasing evidence supporting the dermocosmetic potential of jaboticaba peel, studies remain scarce, with only one identified investigation using it in a topical formulation. This review provides a structured scientific foundation to encourage research aimed at developing multifunctional, eco-friendly, plant-based cosmetics aligned with the principles of the circular economy. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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15 pages, 1809 KB

Open AccessArticle

Effects of ε-Viniferin and ε-Viniferin-Enriched Extract from Vitis labruscana B. ‘Campbell Early’ Cell Cultures on Wound Healing and Epidermal Barrier Restoration in Human Skin Cells

by Daeun Kim, Jimin Lim, Kyuri Lee, Gisol Kim, Jaeho Pyee, Minkyoung You and Jaesung Hwang

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 181; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050181 - 25 Aug 2025

Abstract

Skin wound healing and barrier restoration are complex, tightly regulated processes critical for maintaining skin integrity, particularly in aged or compromised skin. This study investigated the wound healing efficacy and epidermal barrier-restoring effects of ε-Viniferin, a bioactive resveratrol dimer, and Vino Chocolate™, a [...] Read more.

Skin wound healing and barrier restoration are complex, tightly regulated processes critical for maintaining skin integrity, particularly in aged or compromised skin. This study investigated the wound healing efficacy and epidermal barrier-restoring effects of ε-Viniferin, a bioactive resveratrol dimer, and Vino Chocolate™, a grape flower-derived extract from Vitis labruscana ‘Campbell Early’ cell cultures enriched with ε-Viniferin. An HPLC analysis confirmed a high concentration of ε-Viniferin (547.58 ppm) in the cell culture-derived extract. In vitro assays conducted on HaCaT keratinocytes and HDFn fibroblasts demonstrated that the treatment with ε-Viniferin and Vino Chocolate™ significantly enhanced fibroblast migration. ELISA analyses showed that both treatments induced a dose-dependent increase in pro-collagen type I (COL1A1), with ε-Viniferin at 1 ppm demonstrating superior efficacy compared to TGF-β1. Additionally, these compounds notably suppressed the expression of matrix metalloproteinases MMP-1 and MMP-3, displaying effects comparable to or greater than retinoic acid. The Western blot analysis further revealed an increased filaggrin expression in keratinocytes, suggesting an improved epidermal barrier function. Collectively, these results indicate that ε-Viniferin and Vino Chocolate™ effectively promote extracellular matrix remodeling, modulate inflammatory responses, and enhance epidermal barrier integrity. These findings highlight their potential as multifunctional bioactive agents for cosmeceutical applications and emphasize the advantages of plant cell culture technology as a sustainable, innovative platform for advanced skincare ingredient development. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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24 pages, 1271 KB

Open AccessArticle

Unlocking Pomegranate’s Potential: Ultrasonication-Enriched Oil in Nanobeads for Innovative Cosmetic Hydrogels

by Ameni Ben Abdennebi, Iness Bettaieb Rebey, Rym Essid, Majdi Hammami, Hamza Gadhoumi, Raghda Yazidi, Emna Chaabani, Saber Khammessi, Salma Nait Mohamed, Walid Yeddes and Moufida Saidani-Tounsi

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 180; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050180 - 25 Aug 2025

Viewed by 55

Abstract

Pomegranate (Punica granatum L.), is renowned for its bioactive compounds, offering significant potential in cosmetic applications due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. This study presents a sustainably sourced cosmetic ingredient developed by enriching pomegranate seed oil with peel powder using [...] Read more.

Pomegranate (Punica granatum L.), is renowned for its bioactive compounds, offering significant potential in cosmetic applications due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. This study presents a sustainably sourced cosmetic ingredient developed by enriching pomegranate seed oil with peel powder using optimized ultrasonication, followed by encapsulation in alginate nanobeads and integration into a minimalist hydrogel formulation. A Box–Behnken experimental design was employed to optimize ultrasonication parameters (15 min, 90% power, 202 mg/mL powder-to-oil ratio), yielding an enriched PSO with significantly enhanced total phenolic content (TPC: 69.23 ± 1.66 mg GAE/g), total flavonoid content (TFC: 61.09 ± 1.66 mg QE/g), and robust DPPH antioxidant activity (78.63 ± 3.81%). The enriched oil exhibited enhanced oxidative stability (peroxide value: 5.75 ± 0.30 meq O₂/kg vs. 50.95 ± 0.07 meq O₂/kg for neutral oil), improved fatty acid profile, and significant anti-inflammatory (IC₅₀ = 897.25 µg/mL for NO inhibition) and antibacterial activities. Alginate nanobeads (432.46 ± 12.59 nm, zeta potential: −30.74 ± 3.20 mV) ensured bioactivity preservation, while the hydrogel maintained physicochemical and microbial stability over 60 days under accelerated conditions (40 ± 2 °C, 75 ± 5% RH). This multifunctional formulation, integrating sustainable extraction, advanced encapsulation, and a minimalist delivery system, represents a highly promising natural ingredient for anti-aging and antioxidant cosmetic applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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24 pages, 1034 KB

Open AccessReview

Neurocosmetics and Aromatherapy Through Neurocutaneous Receptors and Their Functional Implications in Cosmetics

by María Judith Sánchez-Peña, Odessa Magallón-Chávez and Juan Antonio Rivas-Loaiza

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 179; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050179 - 25 Aug 2025

Viewed by 93

Abstract

There is little scientific evidence for many of the medical benefits attributed to aromatherapy and neurocosmetics; however, they have been shown to be useful in the management of symptoms such as pain, nausea, general well-being, anxiety, depression, stress, and insomnia through various mechanisms, [...] Read more.

There is little scientific evidence for many of the medical benefits attributed to aromatherapy and neurocosmetics; however, they have been shown to be useful in the management of symptoms such as pain, nausea, general well-being, anxiety, depression, stress, and insomnia through various mechanisms, including the olfactory pathway and activation of TRPV and CBD receptors. This review therefore aims to compile the most relevant literature on active ingredients proven effective in neurocosmetics and aromatherapy, as well as the mechanisms responsible for their function, in order to highlight how they can be synergistically integrated into a new generation of multifunctional formulations forming the basis of neuro-functional skin care. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue New Perspectives in Cosmetics and Dermatology: Mechanisms and Therapies)

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11 pages, 986 KB

Open AccessArticle

Effect of SMART DNA Therapy Retix.C Application on Skin Microbiome

by Dorota Sobolewska-Sztychny, Karolina Wódz and Aleksandra Lesiak

Cosmetics 2025, 12(5), 178; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12050178 - 22 Aug 2025

Viewed by 246

Abstract

Background: The skin microbiome plays a key role in maintaining skin health, and its composition can be influenced by cosmetic treatments. This study aimed to investigate the effects of SMART DNA Therapy treatment on facial skin microbiome composition, with specific focus on changes [...] Read more.

Background: The skin microbiome plays a key role in maintaining skin health, and its composition can be influenced by cosmetic treatments. This study aimed to investigate the effects of SMART DNA Therapy treatment on facial skin microbiome composition, with specific focus on changes in commensal and pathogenic bacterial populations following multi-component anti-aging intervention. Methods: This clinical study included 10 Caucasian female participants aged 28–50 years (Clinical trial registration number: 0406/2023). Each participant received three Retix.C SMART DNA THERAPY treatments at 14-day intervals over 6 weeks. The protocol included three phases: chemical peeling with ferulic acid, peptide microinjections for DNA repair, and home-care products with antioxidants. Bacterial samples were collected from forehead and cheek skin before treatment and 2 weeks after the final treatment. Samples were analyzed using bacterial culture and PCR methods. Results: After treatment, the skin microbiome showed beneficial changes with increased numbers of helpful bacteria and elimination of harmful bacteria: complete removal of Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus aureus was observed, Staphylococcus epidermidis and other beneficial bacteria increased on both forehead and cheek areas. Overall bacterial diversity decreased, and participants exhibited more similar microbiome patterns after treatment. Conclusions: SMART DNA Therapy treatment successfully modified the skin microbiome by increasing protective bacteria and eliminating pathogenic species. The treatment may support skin health through microbiome modulation and the potential antioxidant effects of its active ingredients, although these were not directly assessed in this study. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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Cosmetics, Volume 12, Issue 5 (October 2025) – 8 articles

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