Cosmetics

18 pages, 5637 KB

Open AccessArticle

Natural Solid Cosmetics: Innovative Water-in-Oil Emulsions

by Simone Conti, Luigi Padovano, Miryam Chiara Malacarne and Enrico Caruso

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 48; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010048 - 23 Feb 2026

Viewed by 820

The formulation of solid cosmetic products with elevated water content poses considerable challenges, particularly in the context of lip care products, where water contributes to hydration, enhances texture, and facilitates the dissolution of hydrophilic active ingredients. Conventionally, these products are based on water-in-oil [...] Read more.

The formulation of solid cosmetic products with elevated water content poses considerable challenges, particularly in the context of lip care products, where water contributes to hydration, enhances texture, and facilitates the dissolution of hydrophilic active ingredients. Conventionally, these products are based on water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions embedded in a solid matrix, stabilised primarily by synthetic emulsifiers. However, an increase in consumer demand for eco-friendly formulations has resulted in a heightened interest in natural emulsifiers. In this study, the performance of IDRAWAX^® REVO, a natural emulsifying and structuring agent, was evaluated in solid W/O formulations with varying water concentrations. The findings indicate that IDRAWAX^® REVO efficiently stabilises emulsions across diverse oil and water contents, thereby preserving product uniformity and stability. These findings emphasise the potential of this approach to streamline the formulation of water-based solid cosmetics, thus obviating the necessity for synthetic emulsifiers. This work represents a significant advancement in the field of solid cosmetic formulation, thereby facilitating the development of innovative products that exhibit enhanced properties and optimised textures. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Sustainable Innovation in Cosmetics)

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13 pages, 660 KB

Open AccessArticle

Oral Supplementation with Brassica oleracea Dry Aqueous Extract (Purebkale™) Improves Skin Barrier Function, Dermis Density, and Wrinkle Appearance: A 56-Day Open-Label Clinical Study

by Mohammad Reza Jahangiri Manesh, Enza Cestone, Anna Pelizzola, Anna Vellaccio, Massimo Ronchi and Vincenzo Nobile

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 47; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010047 - 20 Feb 2026

Viewed by 950

Abstract

Intrinsic and extrinsic factors compromise skin barrier function and dermal density over time. While Brassica vegetables are known for their bioactive glucosinolates, clinical data regarding their specific effects on skin structure are limited. This prospective, open-label exploratory study evaluated the anti-aging efficacy of [...] Read more.

Intrinsic and extrinsic factors compromise skin barrier function and dermal density over time. While Brassica vegetables are known for their bioactive glucosinolates, clinical data regarding their specific effects on skin structure are limited. This prospective, open-label exploratory study evaluated the anti-aging efficacy of Purebkale™, a Brassica oleracea dry aqueous extract. Fifty healthy women with mild-to-moderate signs of aging ingested the supplement daily for 56 days. Instrumental assessments included transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum cohesivity (protein content), skin firmness, elasticity, wrinkle depth, and dermis density. This study met its primary objectives, indicating a significant improvement in barrier function: TEWL decreased by 7.5% and protein removal via tape-stripping was reduced by 27.8% (p < 0.001). Furthermore, dermal density increased by 12.8%, while wrinkle depth was reduced by 15.1%. Biomechanical parameters also showed significant improvements, with firmness increasing by 17.4% and elasticity by 9.7%. Although oxidative stress markers remained stable, participants’ self-assessments reported high satisfaction with skin quality. These findings suggest that oral supplementation with Brassica oleracea extract effectively supports skin barrier integrity and dermal structure, offering a viable healthy aging strategy for skin. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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16 pages, 2428 KB

Open AccessArticle

Upcycled Postbiotic Cell-Free Supernatants from Limosilactobacillus fermentum MG901 and MG4237 Alleviated Oxidative Stress-Induced Dysfunction in Human Follicle Dermal Papilla Cells

by Chae Young Jeon, Ji Yeon Lee, Jungwon Min, Jeong-Yong Park, Minha Kim, Wonchan Yoon, Soo-Im Choi and Dong Wook Shin

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 46; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010046 - 18 Feb 2026

Viewed by 832

Abstract

Oxidative stress–induced dysfunction of hair follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPCs) is a key factor in the progression of hair loss. In this study, upcycled postbiotic cell-free supernatants (CFSs), derived from Limosilactobacillus fermentum (L. fermentum) MG901 and MG4237, which are typically discarded [...] Read more.

Oxidative stress–induced dysfunction of hair follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPCs) is a key factor in the progression of hair loss. In this study, upcycled postbiotic cell-free supernatants (CFSs), derived from Limosilactobacillus fermentum (L. fermentum) MG901 and MG4237, which are typically discarded after fermentation, were evaluated for their protective effects in H₂O₂-damaged human dermal papilla cells. The CFS exhibited no cytotoxicity and significantly enhanced wound-healing capacity while suppressing intracellular reactive oxygen species accumulation under oxidative stress conditions. In addition, treatment with CFS restored mitochondrial function, indicating recovery from H₂O₂-induced cellular damage. Dermal papilla cell-specific functional markers, including alkaline phosphatase activity, were also significantly increased following treatment. Mechanistic analyses further revealed that these protective effects were associated with modulation of Wnt/β-catenin signaling as well as regulation of mitochondrial function. Collectively, these findings suggest that upcycled postbiotic CFS from L. fermentum MG901 and MG4237 mitigates oxidative stress-induced dermal papilla cell dysfunction, supporting its potential application as a sustainable cosmetic ingredient for alleviating hair loss. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Care and Innovation from the Perspective of Molecular Dermatology)

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16 pages, 1035 KB

Open AccessReview

Palmitoleic (16:1 n−7) Acid and Skin Health: Functional Roles and Opportunities for Topical and Oral Product Applications

by Manuel Oliveira, Xiaoying Zhou, Mona Correa, Dino Athanasiadis, Casey Lippmeier, Leon Parker, Walter Rakitsky and Frédéric Destaillats

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 45; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010045 - 17 Feb 2026

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1174

Abstract

Human skin lipids form interconnected pools that support barrier integrity, immune balance, and interactions with the environment. The stratum corneum barrier is built from an ordered mix of ceramides, cholesterol, and long-chain free fatty acids, while sebaceous lipids and their breakdown products shape [...] Read more.

Human skin lipids form interconnected pools that support barrier integrity, immune balance, and interactions with the environment. The stratum corneum barrier is built from an ordered mix of ceramides, cholesterol, and long-chain free fatty acids, while sebaceous lipids and their breakdown products shape surface properties and the skin microbiome. Hexadecenoic fatty acids are key at this interface. Palmitoleic acid (cis-9 16:1; 16:1 n−7, POA) is enriched in viable epidermis and remains detectable in stratum corneum lipids, whereas its isomer sapienic acid (cis-6 16:1; 16:1 n−10) predominates in human sebum. Together, they influence membrane organization, lipid fluidity, and antimicrobial defense. This mini-review outlines skin lipid composition and function with a focus on POA and then summarizes experimental and preclinical topical evidence suggesting antimicrobial effects, enhanced lubrication properties, protection from oxidative and ultraviolet B (UVB) injury, and enhanced wound repair. It also reviews early clinical findings from oral POA supplementation trials reporting improved hydration, barrier function, and markers of photo-oxidative aging, with exploratory signals for acne in a multi-nutrient regimen. Major POA sources include sea buckthorn pulp oil, macadamia and avocado oils, selected marine oils, ruminant fats, and emerging fermentation-derived products. Robust mechanistic human studies are still needed to define optimal dosing, formulations, and indications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Lipids in Cosmetics)

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22 pages, 862 KB

Open AccessReview

Fenugreek as a Versatile Cosmetic Ingredient: Phytochemical Profile, Skin–Hair Benefits and Formulation Opportunities

by Iness Bettaieb Rebey, Ameni Ben Abdennebi, Emna Chaabani, Walid Yeddes, Majdi Hammami, Moufida Saidani Tounsi and Othmane Merah

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 44; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010044 - 16 Feb 2026

Viewed by 1700

Abstract

The cosmetic and personal care industry is increasingly shifting toward plant-derived ingredients that combine multifunctional biological activity with favorable safety and sustainability profiles. Trigonella foenum-graecum L. (fenugreek), a leguminous plant traditionally used in food and medicine, has recently attracted growing attention as a [...] Read more.

The cosmetic and personal care industry is increasingly shifting toward plant-derived ingredients that combine multifunctional biological activity with favorable safety and sustainability profiles. Trigonella foenum-graecum L. (fenugreek), a leguminous plant traditionally used in food and medicine, has recently attracted growing attention as a potential cosmetic and cosmeceutical ingredient. This review provides a comprehensive and critical synthesis of current knowledge on fenugreek in the context of skin and hair care applications. First, the phytochemical profile of fenugreek relevant to cosmetics is examined, with emphasis on polyphenols and flavonoids, steroidal saponins, alkaloids (notably trigonelline), and mucilage-rich galactomannans. The biological activities of these constituents are then discussed in relation to key cutaneous and scalp mechanisms, including antioxidant defense, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial effects, anti-glycation and dermal matrix protection, skin hydration and barrier support, as well as hair growth promotion and scalp health. Particular attention is given to recent in vitro, ex vivo, and emerging clinical evidence supporting anti-aging, moisturizing, and hair-care claims. Current formulation strategies and green extraction technologies enabling the incorporation of fenugreek-derived ingredients into topical products are reviewed, alongside considerations of safety, toxicity, and regulatory status under EU cosmetic legislation. Finally, existing research gaps are identified, highlighting the need for standardized extracts, robust clinical validation, and advanced omics-based approaches. This review highlights fenugreek’s strong potential as a versatile plant-based ingredient in cosmetics, despite remaining understudied in topical applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Fine Chemicals from Natural Sources with Potential Application in the Cosmetic/Pharmaceutical Industry—Volume 2)

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26 pages, 2716 KB

Open AccessReview

The Skin Microbiome Revolution: The Science and Challenges of Prebiotics, Probiotics, and Postbiotics in Skincare

by Joie Chia, Adnyana Carma, Alyssa Alwyn, Ryeryeong Cho, David Stephen Hill and Maria Teresa Borrello

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 43; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010043 - 13 Feb 2026

Viewed by 2594

Abstract

The skin microbiome comprises a diverse community of bacteria, fungi, and archaea, all of which play a foundational role in maintaining skin health, immune tolerance, and barrier integrity. Recent advances in cosmetic science focus on the skin microbiome through the incorporation of prebiotics, [...] Read more.

The skin microbiome comprises a diverse community of bacteria, fungi, and archaea, all of which play a foundational role in maintaining skin health, immune tolerance, and barrier integrity. Recent advances in cosmetic science focus on the skin microbiome through the incorporation of prebiotics, probiotics and postbiotics in topical skincare formulations. This review critically examines the scientific understanding of the skin microbiome, explores the mechanisms and extractions of key “biotics” ingredients, and evaluates the clinical and regulatory landscape surrounding their use in the cosmetic industry. Despite promising scientific data and early clinical findings, there are notable challenges, including limited robust in vivo evidence, regulatory ambiguity, difficulties in formulation, and inconsistent definition and marketing claims. Regulatory harmonisation and the development of standardised testing protocols are necessary to fill the gap in today’s research and to maximise the benefits of “biotics” in the cosmetic industry. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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11 pages, 1526 KB

Open AccessArticle

Therapeutic Potential of Ozonized Glycerin in Skin Inflammation and Repair

by John Ivarsson, Anna Guiotto, Giulia Trinchera, Alessandra Pecorelli, Gotaro Shiota and Giuseppe Valacchi

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 42; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010042 - 12 Feb 2026

Viewed by 1439

Abstract

Glycerin is a widely used ingredient in cosmetics due to its cost-effectiveness and safety. While often used to enhance the texture of cosmetics, current research has demonstrated that it improves cutaneous properties such as enhanced skin hydration and moisturization. Due to its widespread [...] Read more.

Glycerin is a widely used ingredient in cosmetics due to its cost-effectiveness and safety. While often used to enhance the texture of cosmetics, current research has demonstrated that it improves cutaneous properties such as enhanced skin hydration and moisturization. Due to its widespread use in cosmetics, enhancing the functional capacities of glycerin provides a promising method to improve the effectiveness of numerous cosmetics. Ozonized glycerin has emerged as a novel technology able to enhance glycerin’s effectiveness with reported anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antiviral effects. This approach leverages ozone stabilization in glycerin for improved stability and prolonged release to the skin. Clinical application of ozonized glycerin has exhibited lightening of aging spots through promoting skin turnover. The objective of this study was to evaluate the enhanced properties of glycerin when ozonized in terms of skin repair and inflammation. Through topical pretreatment of epidermal 3D wound healing models (13 days) and ex vivo human skin biopsies (4 days), ozonized glycerin was able to improve wound closure, enhance skin barrier and extracellular matrix protein expression, and reduce inflammation. Notably, ozonized glycerin enhanced wound closure by 6.8% compared to glycerin, as well as significantly protecting against LPS-induced elastin degradation (67.7% difference from LPS). These data provide evidence for the use of ozonized glycerin as a new technology to prevent and diminish skin inflammation and improve wound repair. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2026)

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2 pages, 142 KB

Open AccessCorrection

Correction: Chang et al. Centella asiatica L. Urb. Extracellular Vesicle and Growth Factor Essence for Hair and Scalp Health: A 56-Day Exploratory Randomized Trial. Cosmetics 2025, 12, 253

by Tsong-Min Chang, Chung-Chin Wu, Huey-Chun Huang, Ji-Ying Lu, Ching-Hua Chuang, Pei-Lun Kao, Wei-Hsuan Tang, Wang-Ju Hsieh, Luke Tzu-Chi Liu, Wei-Yin Qiu, Ivona Percec, Charles Chen and Tsun-Yung Kuo

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 41; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010041 - 12 Feb 2026

Viewed by 332

Abstract

Error in Table 1 [...] Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

16 pages, 24966 KB

Open AccessArticle

A Thermostable Aspartic Protease from Bitter Melon (Momordica charantia) as a Novel Cosmetic Enzyme for Skin Exfoliation and Hydration: Enzymatic Stability and Pilot In-Use Skin Benefits

by Somi Park, Ji Eun Lee, Hee Cheol Kang and Jin Woo Min

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 40; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010040 - 11 Feb 2026

Viewed by 734

Abstract

Naturally derived cosmetic enzymes from food-grade plant sources are increasingly sought after as sustainable and skin-compatible alternatives to conventional exfoliating agents; however, many existing plant proteases exhibit poor thermal stability, limiting their practical use in cosmetic formulations. In this study, a thermostable keratinolytic [...] Read more.

Naturally derived cosmetic enzymes from food-grade plant sources are increasingly sought after as sustainable and skin-compatible alternatives to conventional exfoliating agents; however, many existing plant proteases exhibit poor thermal stability, limiting their practical use in cosmetic formulations. In this study, a thermostable keratinolytic protease extracted from Momordica charantia (bitter melon), a widely consumed edible and medicinal plant, was characterized to overcome these limitations and evaluated for its cosmetic applicability. The enzyme demonstrated strong keratin-degrading activity and retained over 80% of its activity at 70 °C, indicating superior thermal stability compared with commonly used cosmetic enzymes. In vitro assays using RAW264.7 murine macrophages confirmed low cytotoxicity and revealed significant inhibition of lipopolysaccharide-induced nitric oxide production, along with moderate elastase inhibitory activity, suggesting additional skin-beneficial properties. To assess practical exfoliating efficacy and skin compatibility, a four-week in-use test was conducted with 11 healthy adult volunteers using a formulation containing the M. charantia-derived enzyme. Significant reductions in desquamation index and improvements in skin smoothness (SEsm), measured using a Visioscan^® VC20 Plus, and hydration, assessed with a Corneometer^® CM825, were observed (p < 0.001), with no adverse effects reported. Collectively, these findings indicate that this naturally sourced, plant-derived keratinase offers a thermally stable and effective enzymatic exfoliation strategy, supporting its potential use as a sustainable cosmetic bioactive ingredient. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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12 pages, 851 KB

Open AccessArticle

Comparative In Vitro Evaluation of Selected Essential Oils and Commercial Blends Against Skin-Associated Pathogens

by Ruslan Bikmurzin, Jurga Būdienė, Rūta Daunoravičienė, Ingrida Pumputienė and Jūratė Graželytė

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 39; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010039 - 10 Feb 2026

Viewed by 567

Abstract

Essential oils are widely used in cosmetic products and are valued for their antimicrobial properties. In this study, the in vitro antimicrobial activity of five pure essential oils (EOs) and five commercially available EO blends was comparatively evaluated against six skin-associated pathogens: Staphylococcus [...] Read more.

Essential oils are widely used in cosmetic products and are valued for their antimicrobial properties. In this study, the in vitro antimicrobial activity of five pure essential oils (EOs) and five commercially available EO blends was comparatively evaluated against six skin-associated pathogens: Staphylococcus aureus, Streptococcus pyogenes, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Candida lusitaniae and Candida guilliermondii. Chemical profiling of volatile constituents was performed using gas chromatography–mass spectrometry; antimicrobial activity was assessed by broth microdilution to determine minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC), as well as spot-inoculation to determine minimum bactericidal concentration (MBC). Results revealed microorganism-dependent inhibitory and bactericidal activity of the tested essential oils. Candida spp. and E. coli were the most susceptible microorganisms, whereas P. aeruginosa exhibited the lowest susceptibility to essential oils. Pinus sylvestris showed comparatively lower MIC and MBC values across most tested microorganisms. Commercial EO blends showed comparable antimicrobial activity to individual essential oils. Overall, this study provides a comparative in vitro screening of selected essential oils and commercial blends relevant to cosmetic applications, indicating that EO blends do not exhibit superior antimicrobial activity over pure oils under the tested conditions. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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12 pages, 1456 KB

Open AccessArticle

Harnessing miRNA Milk-Derived Exosomes for Hair Loss Disorders: In Vitro Modulation of WNT Signaling and Dermal Papilla Proliferation

by Daniela Pinto, Giorgia Mondadori, Monica Cozzi, Piero Tesauro, Martin Hintersteiner, Raúl López Domínguez, Esperanza de Santiago Rodríguez, Giammaria Giuliani and Fabio Rinaldi

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 38; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010038 - 10 Feb 2026

Viewed by 638

Abstract

Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) and telogen effluvium (TE) are common hair loss disorders characterized by dysregulated hair follicle cycling and impaired dermal papilla cell function. Emerging evidence indicates that exosomes are key mediators of intercellular communication, largely through their microRNA (miRNA) cargo. Milk-derived exosomes [...] Read more.

Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) and telogen effluvium (TE) are common hair loss disorders characterized by dysregulated hair follicle cycling and impaired dermal papilla cell function. Emerging evidence indicates that exosomes are key mediators of intercellular communication, largely through their microRNA (miRNA) cargo. Milk-derived exosomes (Mi-Exos) represent an accessible and biologically active source of regulatory miRNAs with potential relevance for hair disorders. This study evaluated the in vitro effects of bovine milk-derived exosomes (MEV-miRNAs) on human hair follicles. MEV-miRNAs were enriched in miRNA families (Let-7, miR-21, miR-30, miR-200, and miR-148/152) previously implicated in hair follicle regulation. Viability/metabolic activity of hair follicle dermal papilla (HFDP) cells was assessed, and human hair follicles were cultured ex vivo to measure shaft elongation and modulation of the WNT signaling pathway by qRT-PCR. MEV-miRNAs significantly increased HFDP cell viability after 24 h compared with controls. Human hair follicles showed a non-significant trend toward increased elongation following treatment. Gene expression analysis revealed significant up-regulation of key WNT pathway components, including WNT2, WNT5B, WNT10A, WNT11, MMP7, WISP1, and NKD1, indicating modulation of WNT-associated pathways implicated in hair follicle growth and cycling. Overall, MEV-miRNAs exhibit positive modulatory effects on signaling pathways, supporting their potential as a novel therapeutic strategy for AGA and TE. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Next-Generation Molecules and Smart Delivery Systems for Skin Health and Wellness)

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21 pages, 2849 KB

Open AccessArticle

Sebum Regulating, Anti-Inflammatory, and Lipid Restoring Efficacy of Isorhamnetin Extracted from Opuntia ficus-indica: Results from a Randomized Double-Blind Clinical Trial

by Federica Cascella, Mohammad Reza Jahangiri Manesh, Enza Cestone, Gloria Roveda, Martina Masciarelli, Vincenzo Zaccaria, Violetta Insolia and Vincenzo Nobile

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 37; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010037 - 9 Feb 2026

Viewed by 772

Abstract

Oily skin is a prevalent dermatological condition characterized by excessive sebum production, due to hyperactivity of the sebaceous glands. In this study, a randomized split-face clinical trial was conducted on 22 subjects with combination to oily skin to evaluate the efficacy of a [...] Read more.

Oily skin is a prevalent dermatological condition characterized by excessive sebum production, due to hyperactivity of the sebaceous glands. In this study, a randomized split-face clinical trial was conducted on 22 subjects with combination to oily skin to evaluate the efficacy of a cosmetic cream containing a standardized amount of isorhamnetin extract from prickly pear (Opuntia ficus-indica), applied twice daily over a 28-day period. Efficacy assessments included instrumental measurements of skin sebum content, Sebum Excretion Rate (SER), pore size, tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α) levels, skin microbiome composition, and lipid profile. Additionally, the study included an assessment of participants’ subjective perception. After 14 and 28 days of product use, respectively, a significant reduction in skin sebum content was observed, with decreases of 13.1% and 21.1% on the forehead, and 10.4% and 15.8% in the alar groove. This reduction in sebum levels was associated with a mattifying effect lasting up to 7.1 h, a 37.2% decrease in the sebum excretion rate (SER), and a 9.6% reduction in pore size. The TNF- α levels decreased by 7.4%. The extract was well tolerated by the skin microbiome, which remained stable. Additionally, analysis of the skin lipid profile revealed an increase in both ceramide and triacylglycerol levels. Overall, our findings demonstrate the role of the extract in modulating sebaceous gland activity, improving skin appearance, reducing inflammation, and supporting barrier integrity and hydration in individuals with oily skin. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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19 pages, 954 KB

Open AccessSystematic Review

Perifollicular Elastolysis: A Systematic Review of Clinical Characteristics, Histopathology, and Therapeutic Outcomes

by Chime Eden and Weeratian Tawanwongsri

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 36; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010036 - 9 Feb 2026

Viewed by 813

Abstract

Perifollicular elastolysis (PE), frequently referred to as papular acne scars, is an underrecognized folliculocentric disorder; its clinicopathologic spectrum and management have not been comprehensively synthesized. We performed a systematic review by searching Scopus, MEDLINE (via PubMed), and Cochrane CENTRAL from inception to 16 [...] Read more.

Perifollicular elastolysis (PE), frequently referred to as papular acne scars, is an underrecognized folliculocentric disorder; its clinicopathologic spectrum and management have not been comprehensively synthesized. We performed a systematic review by searching Scopus, MEDLINE (via PubMed), and Cochrane CENTRAL from inception to 16 December 2025, for primary PE reports, synthesized findings narratively, and appraised bias risk using Joanna Briggs Institute checklists. After applying relevant inclusion and exclusion criteria, 16 studies, largely case reports/series, were included. PE typically presents as asymptomatic, noninflammatory, discrete follicular papules, most often skin-colored to whitish/yellowish, occurring mainly on the face and other acne-prone sites. Histopathological investigations reproducibly have shown selective perifollicular loss and/or fragmentation of elastic fibers on staining, with variable perifollicular fibrotic or scar-like changes. Therapeutic evidence was sparse and heterogeneous; the largest interventional study evaluated fractional CO₂ laser delivered in an artificial grid pattern (three sessions; 2-month intervals) and reported short-term improvement with transient post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in 15.6% of patients. Overall, PE shows a consistent clinicopathologic signature, but high-certainty therapeutic evidence remains limited; future studies should standardize terminology, diagnostic criteria, and core outcomes and use prospective comparative designs to establish effective and safe treatments. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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63 pages, 2900 KB

Open AccessReview

Bioactive Compounds for Topical and Minimally Invasive Cellulite Treatment and Skin Rejuvenation

by Aura Rusu, Raluca-Daniela Mazilu, Blanka Székely-Szentmiklósi, Octavia-Laura Oancea, Corneliu Tanase, Ioana-Andreea Lungu and Gabriel Hancu

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 35; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010035 - 6 Feb 2026

Viewed by 2741

Abstract

Cellulite, a multifactorial condition affecting approximately 98% of women, is characterised by dermal and subcutaneous architectural changes that compromise skin texture and elasticity. Its progression is closely linked to hormonal, vascular, and inflammatory factors, as well as ageing-related extracellular matrix degradation. This review [...] Read more.

Cellulite, a multifactorial condition affecting approximately 98% of women, is characterised by dermal and subcutaneous architectural changes that compromise skin texture and elasticity. Its progression is closely linked to hormonal, vascular, and inflammatory factors, as well as ageing-related extracellular matrix degradation. This review critically evaluates bioactive compounds incorporated into topical and minimally invasive formulations for the management of cellulite and skin rejuvenation. A comprehensive literature search was conducted across major scientific databases and cosmetic ingredient repositories, focusing on active ingredients with demonstrated efficacy in enhancing skin structure. Key compounds include capsaicin, forskolin, L-carnitine, caffeine, retinol, and extracts from plants such as Centella asiatica, which act via lipolysis, improved circulation, and antioxidant effects. Minimally invasive agents, such as deoxycholic acid and poly-L-lactic acid, complement these strategies by inducing adipocytolysis and neocollagenesis, thereby improving skin firmness and contour. Evidence indicates that multi-active formulations combining lipolytic agents with antioxidants and collagen-stimulating molecules yield synergistic benefits, reducing adipose protrusion and improving skin firmness. However, heterogeneity in study design and the lack of standardised evaluation methods limit firm conclusions. Further studies should validate efficacy and optimise delivery. Integrated topical and injectable therapies represent a promising, multifunctional approach to addressing cellulite and age-related skin changes. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Natural Compounds for Skin Rejuvenation: Advances in Cosmetic Science)

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20 pages, 5125 KB

Open AccessArticle

Ultrasound-Enhanced Polyol Extraction of Rosa damascena: Comprehensive Polyphenol Profiling and In Vitro Antioxidant Activity

by Kansiree Keatpapawong, Phitcha Chinarat and Nuntawat Khat-udomkiri

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 34; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010034 - 6 Feb 2026

Viewed by 638

Abstract

This study demonstrates the effectiveness of ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) using butylene glycol for recovering antioxidant bioactive compounds from Rosa damascena petals. Extraction was conducted using 40% (w/v) butylene glycol, a 15 min treatment, and a solid–liquid ratio of 1:50 [...] Read more.

This study demonstrates the effectiveness of ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) using butylene glycol for recovering antioxidant bioactive compounds from Rosa damascena petals. Extraction was conducted using 40% (w/v) butylene glycol, a 15 min treatment, and a solid–liquid ratio of 1:50 g/mL. Under these conditions, butylene glycol-based UAE yielded a total flavonoid content of 51.26 ± 1.75 mg QE/g sample, significantly higher than that obtained with ethanol-based UAE (p < 0.05), while the total phenolic content (118.23 ± 4.86 mg GAE/g sample) showed no significant difference between solvents. Antioxidant capacity was also enhanced, with butylene glycol UAE exhibiting stronger DPPH radical scavenging activity (133.12 ± 4.81 mg TEAC/g sample) and higher FRAP values (8.13 ± 0.23 mg FeSO₄/g sample) than ethanol-based UAE and conventional shaking extraction. Multivariate analyses, including principal component analysis, heatmap clustering, and Venn diagrams, revealed clear separation among extraction methods and a broader phytochemical profile in butylene glycol UAE extracts. LC-QTOF-ESI-MS/MS profiling confirmed a conserved core phenolic composition across all extracts, while butylene glycol UAE selectively enriched additional galloyl derivatives and conjugated flavonoids and also enabled the detection of less polar phenolics. These findings highlight butylene glycol-based UAE as a sustainable and industry-relevant alternative to ethanol extraction for cosmetic applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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16 pages, 3327 KB

Open AccessArticle

Protective Mechanisms of Black Ginseng Extract on Collagen Synthesis in Chronic Photoaging

by Yue Liu, Xinxu Rao, Chang Gao, Tingzhi Zhang and Shaowei Yan

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 33; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010033 - 6 Feb 2026

Viewed by 740

Abstract

Chronic ultraviolet (UV) exposure disrupts dermal collagen homeostasis and accelerates skin aging. This study evaluated the protective effects of black ginseng extract (BGE) against UV-induced photoaging in human dermal fibroblasts. BGE restored collagen-related markers, including COL5A1 and COL7A1, improved fibroblast proliferative capacity, and [...] Read more.

Chronic ultraviolet (UV) exposure disrupts dermal collagen homeostasis and accelerates skin aging. This study evaluated the protective effects of black ginseng extract (BGE) against UV-induced photoaging in human dermal fibroblasts. BGE restored collagen-related markers, including COL5A1 and COL7A1, improved fibroblast proliferative capacity, and reduced senescence-associated changes under UV stress. Data-independent acquisition (DIA) proteomics identified broad pathway modulation by BGE, involving extracellular matrix remodeling, chromatin organization, and stress-response processes. To validate genome maintenance-related signals highlighted by proteomics, qPCR showed that BGE increased telomere/replication-associated genes compared with the UV group, including POT1 (2.29-fold) and ORC1 (6.70-fold). In addition, comet assay imaging indicated reduced UV-associated DNA damage features following BGE treatment. Overall, these findings indicate that BGE mitigates UV-induced photoaging phenotypes in fibroblasts, with collagen-related recovery and multi-level protective responses, supporting its potential as a natural bioactive ingredient for anti-photoaging skincare applications. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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12 pages, 1387 KB

Open AccessArticle

Real-World Evaluation of an Injectable Treatment Containing Polynucleotides Purified with High Purification Technology (PN HPT) and Hyaluronic Acid for Skin Quality Improvement in Facial and Body Areas

by Antonella Savoia, Simona Piscopo, Mario Rasulo, Umberto De Rosa, Annamaria D’Ardis, Luisa Cerutti, Stefania Bizzarri, Nicolle Tascon, Annalisa Forni, Roberta Perna, Ilaria Proietti and Carolina Prussia

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 32; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010032 - 6 Feb 2026

Viewed by 789

Abstract

Polynucleotides purified through High Purification Technology (PN HPT), combined with hyaluronic acid (HA), represent a novel injectable strategy to improve skin quality in aesthetic medicine. This real-world data collection aimed to evaluate the safety and performance of PN HPT-based treatments across multiple facial [...] Read more.

Polynucleotides purified through High Purification Technology (PN HPT), combined with hyaluronic acid (HA), represent a novel injectable strategy to improve skin quality in aesthetic medicine. This real-world data collection aimed to evaluate the safety and performance of PN HPT-based treatments across multiple facial and body areas. Data were collected through a post-market clinical follow-up survey, analysing 218 questionnaires completed after 654 intradermal infiltrations performed on the face (e.g., forehead, perioral lines, crow’s feet), neck, hands, and décolleté. Aesthetic outcomes were assessed using clinician- and patient-reported Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale and Global Clinical Improvement Scale scores. Safety and satisfaction were evaluated through adverse event reporting and a patient-completed Likert scale. Across all treated areas, consistent improvement was observed. For the face, 39% of cases achieved “marked improvement” or “excellent result” on the GCI-S, with 48% rated as “much improved” or “very much improved” on the GAIS. Similar outcomes were reported for the neck (41% and 57%), hands (31% and 41%), and décolleté (43% and 55%). Patient satisfaction was high, with over 90% expressing general satisfaction and willingness to repeat the treatment. No serious or unexpected adverse events occurred. These findings suggest that PN HPT and HA injectables may offer a high level of patient satisfaction, observable improvements in skin quality, and a favorable safety profile in the modern aesthetic practice. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Technology)

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26 pages, 4413 KB

Open AccessArticle

Nanocellulose-Stabilized Pickering Emulsions for Cosmetic Applications

by Ana Júlia Vaz de Melo Soares, Dislyane Trajano da Silva, Maryana Rogéria dos Santos, Gleice Paula de Araújo, Andréa Fernanda de Santana Costa, Attilio Converti, Italo José Batista Durval and Leonie Asfora Sarubbo

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 31; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010031 - 30 Jan 2026

Viewed by 863

Abstract

The development of innovative cosmetic ingredients has driven growing interest in emulsion systems that combine performance, stability, and sustainability. Pickering emulsions can form physically stable systems by adsorbing solid particles at the oil–water interface. In this study, bacterial cellulose nanofibers (CNFs) and nanocrystals [...] Read more.

The development of innovative cosmetic ingredients has driven growing interest in emulsion systems that combine performance, stability, and sustainability. Pickering emulsions can form physically stable systems by adsorbing solid particles at the oil–water interface. In this study, bacterial cellulose nanofibers (CNFs) and nanocrystals (CNCs), obtained via acid hydrolysis, were evaluated as stabilizing agents in Pickering emulsions containing jojoba, castor, and grape seed oils for hair conditioning applications. Structural and physicochemical characterization revealed that CNCs exhibited higher crystallinity, a narrower size distribution, and a higher negative surface charge than CNFs, resulting in enhanced colloidal stability. Emulsion analyses showed that CNCs more effectively reduced interfacial tension and produced smaller, more homogeneous droplets. Stability assessments under pH variation, thermal stress, and storage demonstrated that CNC-stabilized emulsions, particularly with castor oil, maintained stability indices above 95% for up to 60 days, whereas CNF-based systems showed greater sensitivity to environmental conditions. The incorporation of CNCs into a prototype conditioning cream resulted in a creamy texture and improved physical stability without compromising formulation performance. Overall, these results highlight CNCs as robust and efficient stabilizing materials for Pickering emulsions, reinforcing the potential of bacterial nanocellulose in advanced cosmetic formulations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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18 pages, 280 KB

Open AccessArticle

Evaluation of Combined Chemical Peeling and Microneedling Protocols in the Treatment of Acne-Prone Skin: A Pilot Study

by Șoimița Emiliana Măgerușan, Gabriel Hancu and Aura Rusu

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 30; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010030 - 28 Jan 2026

Viewed by 1461

Abstract

Acne vulgaris is a prevalent dermatological disorder characterized by excessive sebum production, impaired skin hydration, enlarged pores, and persistent lesions. Chemical peeling is a well-established procedure in cosmetic dermatology, while microneedling has emerged as a promising minimally invasive procedure; however, evidence on their [...] Read more.

Acne vulgaris is a prevalent dermatological disorder characterized by excessive sebum production, impaired skin hydration, enlarged pores, and persistent lesions. Chemical peeling is a well-established procedure in cosmetic dermatology, while microneedling has emerged as a promising minimally invasive procedure; however, evidence on their combined use remains limited. This pilot study aimed to compare the efficacy of chemical peeling, combined chemical peeling with microneedling, and a classic cosmetic protocol in patients with mild to moderate acne. Fifteen participants aged 18–45 years were divided into three groups according to the treatment protocol. Groups 1 (chemical peeling) and 3 (classic cosmetic care) each received four sessions at two-week intervals, whereas Group 2 (combined peeling with microneedling) completed seven sessions. Sebum levels, hydration, pore counts, and acne lesions were assessed using digital skin analysis and evaluated statistically by one-way ANOVA followed by Tukey’s HSD test (p < 0.05). Chemical peeling reduced sebum secretion (−17–18%) and acne lesions (−14%) and increased hydration (+22%), although pore counts increased (+8–18%). The combined protocol achieved the most pronounced seboregulation (−23–25%) and lesion reduction (−22%) with pore reduction (−7%), but hydration decreased (−14–19%). The classic treatment produced only modest effects, mainly a slight decrease in sebum (−10%) and lesions (−8%), accompanied by dehydration (−23–26%) and increased pore counts (+14–16%). These findings indicate the efficacy of chemical peeling and its enhancement through combination with microneedling, emphasizing the need for individualized cosmetic strategies and further validation in larger controlled trials. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

13 pages, 768 KB

Open AccessArticle

Development, Tolerability and In Vitro Effectiveness of a Natural Cosmetic Formulation for Mosquito Bites

by Ketty Gianesin, Elisa Caracciolo, Paolo Lucchese, Emilio Baixauli and Justyna M. Meissner

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 29; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010029 - 27 Jan 2026

Viewed by 1069

Abstract

Skin irritation and itching, often intense, are common consequences of mosquito bites. Interest in cosmetics formulated with natural ingredients has markedly increased among consumers, perceiving them as healthier, safer and more sustainable. We developed a natural formulation based on botanical ingredients for the [...] Read more.

Skin irritation and itching, often intense, are common consequences of mosquito bites. Interest in cosmetics formulated with natural ingredients has markedly increased among consumers, perceiving them as healthier, safer and more sustainable. We developed a natural formulation based on botanical ingredients for the treatment of mosquito bites. In this work, we tested the physicochemical and microbiological stability of this novel formulation, as well as its skin tolerance. Moreover, we performed an in vitro test to assess its soothing efficacy in comparison with an ammonia-based product. According to our findings, the natural formulation resulted in a stable oil-in-water emulsion, with an appealing texture and good skin tolerance; no cases of erythema or edema were observed in any of the volunteers with sensitive skin after product application. In addition, an in vitro test performed on a keratinocytes cell line showed that our formulation significantly reduced IL-1α levels, with a displayed efficacy comparable to the ammonia-based product. This study emphasizes the promising potential of botanical ingredients in the field of cosmetic dermatology, offering high-performance, well-tolerated skincare products suitable for the treatment of common skin irritations, such as mosquito bites. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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15 pages, 3088 KB

Open AccessArticle

Evaluation of Cacumen Platycladi Extract for Hair Loss Prevention: Mechanisms, Efficacy, and Clinical Application

by Xue-Dong Bai, Yu-Chen Liu, Hong-Yun Zhao, Yi-Zhou Luo, Li-Jun Xu and Feng Luo

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 28; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010028 - 26 Jan 2026

Viewed by 1281

Abstract

Hair loss is a prevalent condition with various causes, and effective treatments are in high demand. Cacumen Platycladi (Platycladus orientalis leaves), a traditional Chinese medicine, has been historically used to prevent hair loss. This study aimed to evaluate the efficacy and mechanisms [...] Read more.

Hair loss is a prevalent condition with various causes, and effective treatments are in high demand. Cacumen Platycladi (Platycladus orientalis leaves), a traditional Chinese medicine, has been historically used to prevent hair loss. This study aimed to evaluate the efficacy and mechanisms of Cacumen Platycladi extract (CPE) in preventing hair loss. Using a gradient extraction method with 1,3-butanediol, ethanol, and water, bioactive compounds like quercitrin, myricetin, and myricitrin were enriched and identified via Liquid Chromatography–Mass Spectrometry (LC-MS). The results showed that CPE inhibited 5α-reductase activity, enhanced the antioxidant capacity of human dermal papilla cells (HDPCs), and upregulated the phosphoinositide 3-kinase (PI3K)/protein kinase B (Akt)/mammalian target of rapamycin (mTOR) pathway to promote vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) and collagen type XVII (COL17) expression. A 12-week clinical trial demonstrated that CPE significantly reduced hair loss and increased local hair density compared to placebo, with no adverse effects. These findings support the potential of CPE as a safe and effective natural alternative for hair loss prevention. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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19 pages, 2044 KB

Open AccessArticle

Personalized Dermato-Cosmetology: A Case Study on Biometric Skin Improvements After 28 Days of Bespoke Cosmetic

by Magdalena Bîrsan, Ana-Caterina Cristofor, Alin-Viorel Focșa, Cătălin-Dragoș Ghica, Șadiye-Ioana Scripcariu, Carmen-Valerica Ripa, Robert-Alexandru Vlad, Paula Antonoaea, Cezara Pintea, Andrada Pintea, Nicoleta Todoran, Emőke-Margit Rédai, Amalia-Adina Cojocariu and Adriana Ciurba

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 27; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010027 - 26 Jan 2026

Viewed by 844

Abstract

Objective: This study aimed to design and clinically evaluate a bespoke cosmetic formulation tailored to individual skin characteristics and user preferences, focusing on hydration and barrier recovery in mature, therapy-affected skin. In addition, this study aimed to explore the feasibility and short-term outcomes [...] Read more.

Objective: This study aimed to design and clinically evaluate a bespoke cosmetic formulation tailored to individual skin characteristics and user preferences, focusing on hydration and barrier recovery in mature, therapy-affected skin. In addition, this study aimed to explore the feasibility and short-term outcomes of a structured, biometry-driven personalization approach applied within a single-subject case study design. Materials and Methods: A personalized dermato-cosmetic formulation incorporating melatonin, astaxanthin, low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid, allantoin, yarrow oil (Achillea millefolium), lecithin, cholesterol, and arginine was developed based on objective biophysical assessment of the skin. A clinical case evaluation was conducted in a male subject over 55 years of age (Fitzpatrick phototype III) presenting persistent xerosis and dehydration following completed oncologic therapy. Quantitative skin biometry was performed at baseline and after 28 days of daily application, assessing hydration at six anatomical sites, sebum secretion, pigmentation and erythema indices, elasticity, and stratum corneum turnover and scaling. Results: After 28 days, sebum secretion increased by more than 100%, indicating partial restoration of the lipid barrier. Hyperpigmented areas decreased from 7.2% to 2.3%, while skin elasticity improved from 25% to 44%. A reduction of 8% in the erythema index suggested decreased vascular reactivity. Hydration levels improved consistently across all evaluated sites, and epidermal renewal was enhanced, as evidenced by reduced scaling and smoother skin surface. The melanin index remained stable throughout the study period. Conclusions: This pilot evaluation shows that bespoke cosmetic formulations, customized to individual skin biometry and preferences, can yield measurable improvements in hydration, barrier repair, elasticity, pigmentation uniformity, and epidermal renewal within 28 days, even in skin compromised by previous oncologic therapy. Given the single-subject nature of this pilot evaluation, these findings cannot be generalized to broader populations but rather highlight the importance of personalization and objective skin assessment in guiding individualized dermato-cosmetic formulation strategies. Personalized dermato-cosmetology using objective biophysical assessment may be a promising future strategy for effective, consumer-centered skincare. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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16 pages, 2029 KB

Open AccessArticle

Pycnogenol^® Mitigates Oxidative Stress and Improves Skin Defenses Against Environmental Pollutants: An Ex-Vivo Human Skin Explant Study

by Fabrice Avaltroni, Carolina Burki, Franziska Weichmann, Giuseppe Percoco, Laurent Peno-Mazzarino and Elian Lati

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 26; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010026 - 23 Jan 2026

Viewed by 1604

Abstract

Oxidative stress is a major factor in skin aging and various skin pathologies. Environmental pollutants exacerbate this stress by generating reactive oxygen species (ROS), disrupting the skin’s redox balance. Pycnogenol^®, a French maritime pine bark, extract is standardized to contain 70 [...] Read more.

Oxidative stress is a major factor in skin aging and various skin pathologies. Environmental pollutants exacerbate this stress by generating reactive oxygen species (ROS), disrupting the skin’s redox balance. Pycnogenol^®, a French maritime pine bark, extract is standardized to contain 70 ± 5% procyanidins and known to mitigate oxidative damage and inflammation. This study aims to evaluate the potential antipollution and antioxidant effects of Pycnogenol^® on skin. Ex vivo human skin explants were treated with varying concentrations of Pycnogenol^® (0.5%, 1%, and 2%) and then exposed to a mixture of pollutants. The expression of stress markers Nrf2 (Nuclear Factor Erythroid 2-Related Factor 2) and AHR (Aryl Hydrocarbon Receptor) were evaluated using immunostaining. Lipid peroxidation levels were measured by quantifying malondialdehyde (MDA) concentrations. The extract significantly decreased Nrf2 expression by 40% (p = 0.003) and 23% (p = 0.048) with a dose of 2% and 1%, respectively. After pollutant exposure, Pycnogenol^® (0.5%, 1%, and 2%) reduced Nrf2 over-expression in a dose–response manner by 29% (p = 0.03), 58% (p = 0.004) and 64% (p = 0.002) respectively. Pycnogenol^® at 0.5%, 1%, and 2% significantly reduced AHR over-expression by 61% (p < 0.0001), 76% (p < 0.0001) and 85% (p < 0.0001), respectively. Pycnogenol^® (1%, and 2%) decreased MDA levels following pollutant exposure by 17% (p = 0.06) and 25% (p = 0.01) respectively. In a dose-dependent manner, Pycnogenol^® exhibited a strong protective effect against pollution, significantly reducing pollutant-induced basal oxidative stress (MDA) and over-expression of Nrf2 and AHR, key factors in oxidative stress and detoxification. Pycnogenol^® also increased AHR expression in the absence of pollutants, which may reflect an adaptive cellular response. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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23 pages, 1077 KB

Open AccessReview

Rheology, Texture Analysis and Tribology for Sensory Prediction and Sustainable Cosmetic Design

by Giovanni Tafuro, Alessia Costantini and Alessandra Semenzato

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 25; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010025 - 22 Jan 2026

Viewed by 2679

Abstract

The cosmetic industry is undergoing a deep transformation driven by rapid innovation, evolving consumer expectations, and increasing demands for sustainability. Formulators are required to design products that combine functional efficacy, stability, and appealing sensory properties while adopting environmentally responsible strategies. Traditional empirical and [...] Read more.

The cosmetic industry is undergoing a deep transformation driven by rapid innovation, evolving consumer expectations, and increasing demands for sustainability. Formulators are required to design products that combine functional efficacy, stability, and appealing sensory properties while adopting environmentally responsible strategies. Traditional empirical and sensory-based approaches, though valuable, are often limited by high costs, time, subjectivity and lack of reproducibility. In this context, instrumental techniques provide an objective and predictive means to optimize product performance. Rheology, texture analysis, and tribology offer complementary insights into the structure, mechanical behavior, and interfacial phenomena of cosmetic formulations, all of which are closely linked to application behavior and sensory perception. Their integration enables a quantitative correlation between formulation composition, process conditions, and tactile performance. This review critically examines recent advances in the integrated use of rheology, texture analysis and tribology in cosmetic science, highlighting their role in sensory prediction, stability assessment, scale-up and eco-design. Together, these instrumental approaches support a more data-driven and innovation-oriented formulation paradigm, enabling database development and predictive modeling. Future research should prioritize database expansion, in vivo validation and machine learning integration to further improve sensory prediction and accelerate the design of advanced cosmetic formulations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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20 pages, 3489 KB

Open AccessArticle

Development of a Novel Peptide-Caffeic Acid Conjugate with Enhanced Anti-Photoaging Properties: Efficacy, Transdermal Permeation, and Stability

by Lijuan Liu, Lu Zhang, Zijian Liu, Chelsea Tan, Eric Lam, Matthew C. Ehrman, Choon-Peng Chng, Shikhar Gupta, Changjin Huang, Yanrong Chen and Wenfeng Ding

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 24; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010024 - 21 Jan 2026

Viewed by 850

Abstract

Caffeoyl hexapeptide-9 (CH-9) is a novel cosmetic peptide designed by conjugating hexapeptide-9 (H-9), a known collagen-mimetic peptide with established skin anti-aging activity, with caffeic acid (CA) via an amide bond, leveraging peptide-drug conjugate (PDC) design principles. In ultraviolet (UV)-irradiated cellular and skin models, [...] Read more.

Caffeoyl hexapeptide-9 (CH-9) is a novel cosmetic peptide designed by conjugating hexapeptide-9 (H-9), a known collagen-mimetic peptide with established skin anti-aging activity, with caffeic acid (CA) via an amide bond, leveraging peptide-drug conjugate (PDC) design principles. In ultraviolet (UV)-irradiated cellular and skin models, CH-9 outperformed H-9 in preserving cell viability, restoring collagen types I, III, and IV, and suppressing interleukin-6 and -8 secretion. Additionally, its direct antioxidant activity, absent in H-9, was demonstrated in vitro by scavenging of hydroxyl and peroxyl radicals. Molecular docking indicated CH-9 interacted with the catalytic domain of matrix metalloproteinase 2 (MMP2), a key enzyme in collagen degradation during photoaging, suggesting a potential inhibition of its activity. Molecular dynamics (MD) simulations revealed an improved insertion of CH-9 into a stratum corneum (SC) lipid bilayer compared to H-9, consistent with enhanced skin permeation in vivo. Moreover, CH-9 exhibited improved aqueous and cosmetic serum stability over CA. In a 28-day clinical study, topical application of CH-9 significantly improved skin elasticity and firmness compared to H-9. This work demonstrates that the PDC-based conjugate CH-9 combines enhanced anti-photoaging efficacy with improved transdermal permeation and stability, highlighting a promising strategy for the development of advanced cosmetic ingredients. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Feature Papers in Cosmetics in 2025)

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20 pages, 1524 KB

Open AccessArticle

Phytocosmetic Water-in-Oil Emulsions with Plant Oils: Physicochemical, Rheological and Photoprotective Evaluation

by Nebojša Pavlović, Katarina Žabić, Dragana Zaklan, Jovana Milutinov, Dejan Ćirin and Veljko Krstonošić

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 23; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010023 - 18 Jan 2026

Viewed by 905

Abstract

Plant oils are increasingly explored as sustainable functional ingredients in topical emulsions due to their emollient properties and reported photoprotective potential. This study aimed to formulate physically stable W/O emulsions containing selected plant oils (olive, avocado, sesame, flaxseed, and grape seed oils) at [...] Read more.

Plant oils are increasingly explored as sustainable functional ingredients in topical emulsions due to their emollient properties and reported photoprotective potential. This study aimed to formulate physically stable W/O emulsions containing selected plant oils (olive, avocado, sesame, flaxseed, and grape seed oils) at two concentrations (15% and 30%) and to evaluate their physicochemical, rheological, occlusive, and UV-protective properties. All formulations were confirmed as W/O systems with skin-compatible pH values and demonstrated shear-thinning, non-Newtonian flow with varying degrees of thixotropy. Increasing oil content from 15% to 30% reduced shear stress, consistency index, and viscoelastic moduli, indicating a softer internal structure. Moreover, the viscosities of the emulsions were not solely determined by the viscosities of the individual oils, suggesting significant interactions with the emulsifier system. High occlusion factors were demonstrated for all emulsions, with the highest values observed for 30% olive- and grape seed oil–based formulations. Spectrophotometric SPF assessment revealed measurable UV-protective activity only for emulsions containing 30% olive, avocado, or flaxseed oil (SPF > 1). All formulations exhibited satisfactory physical stability under mechanical and thermal stress. These findings demonstrate that plant oils can modulate the structure and performance of W/O emulsions and may serve as valuable supportive ingredients in the development of photoprotective cosmetic products. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Innovations in Cosmetology: Bridging Scientific Evidence and Clinical Practice)

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23 pages, 3685 KB

Open AccessArticle

Liquid Extract from the Bark of Magnolia officinalis Rejuvenates Skin Aging Through Mitochondrial ROS Reduction

by Yun Haeng Lee, Eun Young Jeong, Ye Hyang Kim, Sekyung Oh, Jee Hee Yoon, Ji Ho Park, Yoo Jin Lee, Duyeol Kim, Byeonghyeon So, Minseon Kim, So Yeon Kim, Hyung Wook Kwon, Youngjoo Byun, Song Seok Shin and Joon Tae Park

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 22; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010022 - 15 Jan 2026

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1166

Abstract

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) are a major cause of skin aging, leading to oxidation and cleavage of collagen that supports skin structure. Previous studies have demonstrated that Magnolia officinalis var. officinalis (M. officinalis) dry extract reduces mitochondria-enriched ROS production and improves [...] Read more.

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) are a major cause of skin aging, leading to oxidation and cleavage of collagen that supports skin structure. Previous studies have demonstrated that Magnolia officinalis var. officinalis (M. officinalis) dry extract reduces mitochondria-enriched ROS production and improves senescence-related phenotypes in vitro. However, its effects on human skin aging have not been investigated. In this study, we conducted both in vitro and clinical trials using an M. officinalis liquid extract, which can be directly applied to cosmetic formulations. The M. officinalis liquid extract restored mitochondrial function and reduced mitochondria-enriched ROS production. Furthermore, M. officinalis liquid extract activated mitophagy, which removes defective mitochondria, a major source of ROS production. In clinical trials, the M. officinalis liquid extract reduced the mean depth of neck wrinkles by 12.73% and the maximum depth by 17.44%. It also reduced the mean roughness (Ra), root mean square roughness (Rq), and maximum depth of roughness (Rmax) by 12.73%, 10.16%, and 10.81%, respectively. Furthermore, the key to the skin-improving effects of M. officinalis liquid extract lies in its ability to increase skin elasticity by 3.76% and brighten skin tone by 0.76%. In conclusion, this study identified a novel mechanism by which M. officinalis liquid extract rejuvenates skin aging. M. officinalis can be utilized as a cosmetic ingredient to improve skin aging and therapeutic candidate for the development of anti-aging treatments. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Bioactive Natural Compounds for Skin Rejuvenation: Advances in Cosmetic Science)

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22 pages, 1324 KB

Open AccessArticle

Dissolvable Face Mask with Liposomal Licorice Extract and Kojic Acid: An Innovative Approach for Skin Brightening

by Theerada Taesotikul, Supusson Pengnam, Thapakorn Charoenying, Boonnada Pamornpathomkul, Prin Chaksmithanont, Prasopchai Patrojanasophon and Chaiyakarn Pornpitchanarong

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 21; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010021 - 14 Jan 2026

Viewed by 1021

Abstract

This study developed a biodegradable dissolvable face mask incorporating liposomal kojic acid (KA) and licochalcone A from licorice extract (LE) to enhance skin delivery and performance. Liposomes were prepared by thin-film hydration method. The film matrix, composed of PVA/PVP/PEG400/HA, was optimized using factorial [...] Read more.

This study developed a biodegradable dissolvable face mask incorporating liposomal kojic acid (KA) and licochalcone A from licorice extract (LE) to enhance skin delivery and performance. Liposomes were prepared by thin-film hydration method. The film matrix, composed of PVA/PVP/PEG400/HA, was optimized using factorial design to achieve suitable mechanical strength and rapid dissolution. The optimized mask, containing liposomal KA (1% w/v) and licochalcone A (0.025% w/v), was evaluated for antioxidant activity, ex vivo skin deposition, and short-term efficacy (Approval from the Institutional Review Board of Silpakorn University, Thailand; Ethics Approval No. REC 67.1001-146-7726/COA 68.0320-013 Date of registration: 20 March 2025). The optimized liposomes exhibited a mean particle size of 66–72 nm, entrapment efficiency above 65%, and a zeta potential of −12.5 mV (licochalcone A) and −1.67 mV (KA). Liposomal licochalcone A and KA showed potent antioxidant activity compared to their native forms. The optimized film dissolved within approximately 15 min on moist skin and showed favorable handling properties. Ex vivo studies revealed significantly higher skin deposition of both KA and licochalcone A from the liposomal mask compared with free and liposomal dispersions (p < 0.05). In a 7-day clinical evaluation, the mask significantly improved skin hydration and reduced melanin index (p < 0.05). No irritation or adverse reactions were observed, and user satisfaction was high. This liposomal dissolvable mask offered an effective, well-tolerated, and eco-friendly approach to enhancing skin brightness and hydration, supporting its potential as a sustainable cosmeceutical innovation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Formulations)

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14 pages, 1576 KB

Open AccessArticle

Efficacy and Safety of a Cannabinoid-Based Topical Cream in Atopic-Prone Skin: A Prospective Clinical Study

by Maite Bilbatua, Ander Pino, Josune Torrecilla, Leire Arana-Pascual, Saioa Mateos, José María Alonso, María Moneo-Sánchez and Raúl Pérez

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 20; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010020 - 14 Jan 2026

Viewed by 958

Abstract

Background: Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory skin disorder. Revodiol Calming Cream^® (RCC) is a novel dermocosmetic product containing cannabidiol (CBD) and Annona cherimola fruit extract, designed for the management of atopic-prone and sensitive skin. Objective: Clinically assess the efficacy and [...] Read more.

Background: Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory skin disorder. Revodiol Calming Cream^® (RCC) is a novel dermocosmetic product containing cannabidiol (CBD) and Annona cherimola fruit extract, designed for the management of atopic-prone and sensitive skin. Objective: Clinically assess the efficacy and safety of RCC in the management of atopic-prone and/or sensitive skin. Materials and methods: A prospective study included 20 adults and 22 children with mild-to-moderate atopic-prone skin. RCC was applied daily, for 56 days. Clinical evaluation included the SCORAD index, pruritus and dryness scales; and a Visual Analog Scale (VAS). Biometric assessments (Mexameter^®, Tewameter^®, Visioscan^®, Corneofix^®) were performed. Subjective satisfaction and quality of life (DLQI) were also recorded. Results: RCC was well tolerated, with no significant adverse events. After 56 days, SCORAD scores decreased by 55% in adults and 60% in children. Pruritus and dryness were significantly reduced, and VAS scores indicated a 65% decrease in discomfort. Biometric assessments demonstrated improvements in erythema, skin barrier function, topography, and desquamation. Subjective satisfaction reached 75% in both populations, and DLQI improved by 23%. Conclusions: The synergistic combination of CBD, Annona cherimola extract, and natural humectants offers a safe and effective daily dermocosmetic care for both adults and children. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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31 pages, 1515 KB

Open AccessReview

Regenerative Strategies for Androgenetic Alopecia: Evidence, Mechanisms, and Translational Pathways

by Rimma Laufer Britva and Amos Gilhar

Cosmetics 2026, 13(1), 19; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics13010019 - 14 Jan 2026

Viewed by 2605

Abstract

Hair loss disorders, particularly androgenetic alopecia (AGA), are common conditions that carry significant psychosocial impact. Current standard therapies, including minoxidil, finasteride, and hair transplantation, primarily slow progression or re-distribute existing follicles and do not regenerate lost follicular structures. In recent years, regenerative medicine [...] Read more.

Hair loss disorders, particularly androgenetic alopecia (AGA), are common conditions that carry significant psychosocial impact. Current standard therapies, including minoxidil, finasteride, and hair transplantation, primarily slow progression or re-distribute existing follicles and do not regenerate lost follicular structures. In recent years, regenerative medicine has been associated with a gradual shift toward approaches that aim to restore follicular function and architecture. Stem cell-derived conditioned media and exosomes have shown the ability to activate Wnt/β-catenin signaling, enhance angiogenesis, modulate inflammation, and promote dermal papilla cell survival, resulting in improved hair density and shaft thickness with favorable safety profiles. Autologous cell-based therapies, including adipose-derived stem cells and dermal sheath cup cells, have demonstrated the potential to rescue miniaturized follicles, although durability and standardization remain challenges. Adjunctive interventions such as microneedling and platelet-rich plasma (PRP) further augment follicular regeneration by inducing controlled micro-injury and releasing growth and neurotrophic factors. In parallel, machine learning-based diagnostic tools and deep hair phenotyping offer improved severity scoring, treatment monitoring, and personalized therapeutic planning, while robotic Follicular Unit Excision (FUE) platforms enhance surgical precision and graft preservation. Advances in tissue engineering and 3D follicle organoid culture suggest progress toward producing transplantable follicle units, though large-scale clinical translation is still in early development. Collectively, these emerging biological and technological strategies indicate movement beyond symptomatic management toward more targeted, multimodal approaches. Future progress will depend on standardized protocols, regulatory clarity, and long-term clinical trials to define which regenerative approaches can reliably achieve sustainable follicle renewal in routine cosmetic dermatology practice. Full article

(This article belongs to the Section Cosmetic Dermatology)

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