Cosmetics: Feature Papers

The aim of this study is showing the filming and skin barrier protective properties of a new ingredient based on ceramides and trehalose and carried in lipophilic vesicles composed of lecithin and cholesterol (or phytosterols). Through an in vivo study, the restructuring and hydrating properties of this trehalose and ceramides compound have been evaluated. Furthermore, this new ingredient has been used in a topical formulation for atopic dermatitis, proving to be effective in the alterations of skin barrier. This evidence makes it an interesting ingredient for topical dermatological compositions in the treatment of dermatitis and all manifestations correlated to these skin disorders, such as edema, swelling, rash, redness, and itching. Its soothing and protective action against the painful and annoying symptoms like those given by dermatitis makes this trehalose and ceramides based ingredient for topical use. Full article

OTTER (opto-thermal transient emission radiometry) is an infrared remote sensing technology that has been extensively used in skin measurements. It is non-contact, non-invasive, and has a unique depth profiling capability. By selecting different detection wavelengths, OTTER can be used for different types of skin measurements, such as skin hydration measurements and skin topically applied substance measurements, etc. By plotting the results at different detection wavelengths, we can have an opto-thermal detection spectrum. Combining with OTTER’s unique depth profiling capability, we can get a depth-resolved opto-thermal detection spectrum. This is a powerful tool that can be used for many skin studies. Here we will present our latest study with details on the apparatus setup, theoretical background, as well as experimental results. Full article

Intrinsic skin aging and photoaging, from exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, are associated with altered regulation of genes associated with the extracellular matrix (ECM) and inflammation, as well as cellular damage from oxidative stress. The regulatory properties of 1α, 25dihydroxyvitamin D3 (vitamin D) include endocrine, ECM regulation, cell differentiation, photoprotection, and anti-inflammation. The goal of this research was to identify the beneficial effects of vitamin D in preventing intrinsic skin aging and photoaging, through its direct effects as well as its effects on the ECM, associated heat shock proteins (HSP-47, and -70), cellular oxidative stress effects, and inflammatory cytokines [interleukin (IL)-1 and IL-8] in non-irradiated, UVA-radiated, UVB-radiated dermal fibroblasts. With regard to the ECM, vitamin D stimulated type I collagen and inhibited cellular elastase activity in non-irradiated fibroblasts; and stimulated type I collagen and HSP-47, and inhibited elastin expression and elastase activity in UVA-radiated dermal fibroblasts. With regard to cellular protection, vitamin D inhibited oxidative damage to DNA, RNA, and lipids in non-irradiated, UVA-radiated and UVB-radiated fibroblasts, and, in addition, increased cell viability of UVB-radiated cells. With regard to anti-inflammation, vitamin D inhibited expression of Il-1 and IL-8 in UVA-radiated fibroblasts, and stimulated HSP-70 in UVA-radiated and UVB-radiated fibroblasts. Overall, vitamin D is predominantly beneficial in preventing UVA-radiation induced photoaging through the differential regulation of the ECM, HSPs, and inflammatory cytokines, and protective effects on the cellular biomolecules. It is also beneficial in preventing UVB-radiation associated photoaging through the stimulation of cell viability and HSP-70, and the inhibition of cellular oxidative damage, and in preventing intrinsic aging through the stimulation of type I collagen and inhibition of cellular oxidative damage. Full article

Lignins have shown remarkable antioxidant properties; acting as “scavengers” of free radicals physiologically produced by cell metabolisms; and exerting a protective action caused by the strong ability of these molecules to absorb UV radiation. Through preliminary Molecular Modeling studies and experimental studies in vivo and in vitro, a lignin hydrolysate compound has been shown to be an extremely versatile active ingredient, presenting soothing, anti-inflammatory, anti-itch, anti-oxidant, anti-aging and anti-pollution properties. The possible fields of application are therefore multiple; making this lignin hydrolysate a particularly interesting ingredient for topical dermatological compositions in the treatment of various skin disorders such as inflammation, edema, swelling, rash, redness, itching, chrono- and photo-induced skin aging. These manifestations are also the basis of more or less serious skin problems, making lignin hydrolysate capable of being used in cosmetic products for the eternal challenge of fighting skin aging, but also in medical devices that can be used to fight more painful and annoying symptoms, like those caused by dermatitis or psoriasis. Full article

Although toothpastes are considered as topical cosmetics that are not normally ingested, it is evident that they may contribute to the introduction of heavy metals and xenobiotics through buccal and gastrointestinal absorption. The purpose of this study was to determine the potential presence of metals and polyphenols in conventional, children’s and herbal toothpastes. Metal analysis was conducted by using the Microwave Plasma-Atomic Emission Spectrometer and the total polyphenolic content was determined by using the Folin–Ciocalteu test. Results showed that cadmium and mercury were absent in all toothpastes while zinc and tin exhibited high values. This was because the latter two metals are incorporated as part of the ingredients. In the case of polyphenols, the highest value was obtained in one of the samples from the children’s toothpaste category while the lowest value was obtained from the conventional toothpaste category. Lead and nickel were two other metals that fell outside the limits for EU and US standards. Most of these limits are usually applicable to topical cosmetic products or food products. However, these may not adequately cover oral hygiene products, such as toothpastes. Full article

The demand for halal cosmetic products among the 2.4 billion Muslim consumers worldwide is increasing. However, the demand for halal cosmetics remains unmet because cosmetics production is dominated by non-halal cosmetic manufacturers, whose production methods may not conform with the requirements of halal science. The development of halal cosmetics and the assessment of their product performance is still in its infancy. The integration of halal science in the manufacture of most cosmetic products remains inadequate. Moreover, there is a global dearth of guiding documents on the development and assessment techniques in the production of comprehensively halal cosmetics. This paper aims to abridge existing literature and knowledge of halal and cosmetic science in order to provide essential technical guidance in the manufacture of halal cosmetics. In addition, the adoption of these methods addresses the unique ethical issues associated with conformance of cosmetics’ product performance to religious practices and halal science. It highlights the applicability of established methods in skin science in the assessment of halal cosmetics. Full article

In this review, we summarize recent literature investigating facial-exercise-induced changes in facial soft tissue. A literature search was performed in PubMed for the terms facial exercise, rejuvenation, muscle, skin, and aging. Four studies were identified from the search and were subject to further assessment. Four studies were included in our analysis. Two of the four studies included compared the experimental (training) group to a control group. The other two studies had no control group. The participants were mainly middle-aged women. Training conditions varied; neuromuscular electrical stimulation (NMES) was used in two studies, the other two studies used an oscillatory movement device and voluntary facial isometric exercise. Two studies measured facial muscle size using ultrasonography before and after 12 weeks of NMES or 8 weeks of oscillatory movement of the face. One study assessed the changes in facial skin elasticity in a single group following 8 weeks of facial isometric exercise, while one study measured strength of labial and lingual muscles before and following 4 weeks of NMES. We found two studies that reported facial-exercise-induced increases in facial muscle size in middle-aged women. It was also reported that facial skin function may improve following facial isometric exercise. Future research is needed to clarify how these changes link with facial rejuvenation. Compared to extremity muscles, the facial muscles are small in size, their shapes are complex, and the boundaries with other tissues may be unclear. Future study is also necessary to examine the reliability of measurements of the facial muscles. Full article