Cosmetics

2024

Jump to: 2023

13 pages, 2129 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Evaluation of Teneligliptin and Retagliptin on the Clearance of Melanosome by Melanophagy in B16F1 Cells

by Seong Hyun Kim, Ji-Eun Bae, Na Yeon Park, Joon Bum Kim, Yong Hwan Kim, So Hyun Kim, Gyeong Seok Oh, Hee Won Wang, Jeong Ho Chang and Dong-Hyung Cho

Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 35; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020035 - 01 Mar 2024

Viewed by 1387

Abstract

A specialized membrane-bound organelle, named the melanosome, is central to the storage and transport of melanin as well as melanin synthesis in melanocytes. Although previous studies have linked melanosomal degradation to autophagy, the precise mechanisms remain elusive. Autophagy, a complex catabolic process involving [...] Read more.

A specialized membrane-bound organelle, named the melanosome, is central to the storage and transport of melanin as well as melanin synthesis in melanocytes. Although previous studies have linked melanosomal degradation to autophagy, the precise mechanisms remain elusive. Autophagy, a complex catabolic process involving autophagosomes and lysosomes, plays a vital role in cellular constituent degradation. In this study, the role of autophagy in melanosomal degradation was explored, employing a cell-based screening system designed to unveil key pathway regulators. We identified specific dipeptidyl peptidase-4 inhibitors, such as teneligliptin hydrobromide and retagliptin phosphate, as novel agents inducing melanophagy through a comprehensive screening of a ubiquitination-related chemical library. We found that treatment with teneligliptin hydrobromide or retagliptin phosphate not only diminishes melanin content elevated by alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) but also triggers autophagy activation within B16F1 cells. In addition, the targeted inhibition of unc-51-like kinase (ULK1) significantly attenuated both the anti-pigmentation effects and autophagy induced by teneligliptin hydrobromide and retagliptin phosphate in α-MSH-treated cells. Collectively, our data demonstrate a new frontier in understanding melanosomal degradation, identifying teneligliptin hydrobromide and retagliptin phosphate as promising inducers of melanophagy via autophagy activation. This study contributes essential insights into cellular degradation mechanisms and offers potential therapeutic avenues in the regulation of pigmentation. Full article

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18 pages, 1001 KiB

Open AccessReview

Advances in the Pathogenesis and Treatment of Rosacea: A Phenotype-Based Therapeutic Approach

by Giulia Galluccio, Martina D’Onghia, Dalma Malvaso, Laura Lazzeri, Elisa Cinotti, Giovanni Rubegni, Pietro Rubegni and Laura Calabrese

Cosmetics 2024, 11(1), 11; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11010011 - 17 Jan 2024

Viewed by 2922

Abstract

Rosacea is a common chronic inflammatory skin disorder that mainly affects the central face. It is primarily characterized by recurrent episodes of flushing, persistent erythema, inflammatory papules, telangiectasias, phymatous changes, and ocular symptoms. Its pathogenesis is complex and still not completely understood. It [...] Read more.

Rosacea is a common chronic inflammatory skin disorder that mainly affects the central face. It is primarily characterized by recurrent episodes of flushing, persistent erythema, inflammatory papules, telangiectasias, phymatous changes, and ocular symptoms. Its pathogenesis is complex and still not completely understood. It encompasses innate and adaptive immune system dysregulation, neurovascular dysfunction, and genetic and environmental factors. To date, four subtypes of rosacea have been identified, based on the predominant clinical features: erythemato-teleangiectatic, papulopustular, pyhomatous, and ocular rosacea. New insights into this condition have led to several pharmacological treatments, including topical medications, spanning from the conventional azelaic acid, metronidazole, benzoyl peroxide, clindamycin, and erythromycin to new ones including not only brimonidine, oxymetazoline, ivermectine, and minocycline but also systemic drugs such as oral antibiotics, isotretinoin, non-selective β-blockers or α2-adrenergic agonists, and laser- or light-based therapies, together with new therapeutic approaches. The aim of this study was to review the current literature on the pathophysiology of rosacea and to provide an overview of therapeutic approaches that specifically address each clinical subtype. Full article

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14 pages, 777 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Dermatological Changes during Menopause and HRT: What to Expect?

by Bruna Bravo, Lais Penedo, Raquel Carvalho, Carolina Dal Vesco, Mariana Calomeni, Debora Gapanowicz, Elaine Kemen, Raphaela Paes and Guilherme Renke

Cosmetics 2024, 11(1), 9; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11010009 - 15 Jan 2024

Viewed by 3077

Abstract

Menopause marks the end of a woman’s reproductive life. It is well-known that skin aging is accelerated during this period, as declining estrogen detrimentally impacts the skin’s extracellular matrix (ECM) which is the provider of strength and elasticity. Menopause also affects scalp hair, [...] Read more.

Menopause marks the end of a woman’s reproductive life. It is well-known that skin aging is accelerated during this period, as declining estrogen detrimentally impacts the skin’s extracellular matrix (ECM) which is the provider of strength and elasticity. Menopause also affects scalp hair, reducing hair diameter and leading to shorter hair growth. Objective: To evaluate the main dermatological complaints of Brazilian women during this period, comparing the compatibility of these complaints with similar studies that evaluated skin health at menopause. Methods: This study interviewed 463 postmenopausal women between 42 and 83 years old through a public electronic questionnaire in the SurveyMonkey app about their perception of the changes noticed in their hair and skin after menopause. All statistical analyses were performed in R v. 3.6.1. Results with p-values < 0.05 were considered significant. Results: Dermatological health in menopausal women, especially the quality of the skin, nails and hair may deteriorate with estrogen deficits. As life expectancy increases and hormone replacement therapy (HRT) becomes more common, a greater understanding of their dermatological effects in menopause is needed. Conclusions: Menopause strongly impacts skin quality and worsens women’s self-esteem and quality of life. There is still a lack of knowledge about HRT and specific treatments for improving skin, hair and nails. Full article

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2023

Jump to: 2024

19 pages, 5319 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Potential of Grapevine Leaf Extract in Treating Hyperpigmentation

by Shani Shecori, Mafatlal M. Kher, Aharon Azagury and Elyashiv Drori

Cosmetics 2024, 11(1), 2; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11010002 - 22 Dec 2023

Viewed by 2030

Abstract

Hyperpigmentation, characterized by the excessive accumulation of melanin in the skin, is a common dermatological concern triggered by various factors, including UV radiation exposure. This study investigates the potential of grapevine leaf extracts in treating hyperpigmentation induced by UV radiation, focusing on 11 [...] Read more.

Hyperpigmentation, characterized by the excessive accumulation of melanin in the skin, is a common dermatological concern triggered by various factors, including UV radiation exposure. This study investigates the potential of grapevine leaf extracts in treating hyperpigmentation induced by UV radiation, focusing on 11 European and 12 Israeli grapevine varieties. Our research explores the correlations between total polyphenol content (TPC), tyrosinase inhibition, sun protection factor (SPF), and half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC50) of these extracts. Our findings reveal substantial variation in TPC among grapevine varieties’ leaves, with the Israeli varieties showing higher TPC levels than the European ones. Correlation analysis demonstrates a robust link between TPC and SPF, indicating that increased TPC contributes to enhanced sun protection properties. However, TPC alone does not strongly correlate with tyrosinase inhibition, suggesting the importance of specific polyphenols in tyrosinase inhibition. Furthermore, the study identifies specific peaks in the HPLC analysis that correlate with desired activities. In summary, our research highlights the potential of grapevine leaf extracts, especially those from Israeli indigenous varieties, in addressing hyperpigmentation. It emphasizes the importance of specific polyphenols rather than TPC alone in achieving the desired effects. These findings open doors for further investigation into identifying and isolating active compounds from grapevine leaves for skincare applications. Full article

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12 pages, 1263 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Impact of Raspberry Seed Oil, Sesame Oil, and Coconut Oil on Skin in Young Women

by Adrianna Dzidek, Olga Czerwińska-Ledwig, Aleksandra Ziembla, Karolina Matysiak, Karolina Zawadzka, Małgorzata Kulesa-Mrowiecka, Ivan Uher, Tomasz Pałka, Janka Poráčová and Anna Piotrowska

Cosmetics 2023, 10(6), 169; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10060169 - 12 Dec 2023

Viewed by 2814

Abstract

The skin serves protective roles for internal organs and is responsible for maintaining homeostasis between the body and the environment. The outermost and most exposed part of the skin to environmental factors is the stratum corneum (SC). SC hydration and transepidermal water loss [...] Read more.

The skin serves protective roles for internal organs and is responsible for maintaining homeostasis between the body and the environment. The outermost and most exposed part of the skin to environmental factors is the stratum corneum (SC). SC hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) values provide information about the physiological state of the skin. Plant oils, owing to their chemical structure, possess moisturizing and protective functions. This study assessed the impact of a single application of drying oil (Rubus idaeus seed oil), semi-drying oil (Sesamum indicum seed oil), and nondrying oil (Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil) on specific skin characteristics in young, healthy women. Thirty-five female volunteers (age: 20.03 ± 1.69) participated in the study. Before commencing the investigation, a questionnaire survey on the subjective assessment of skin condition and a body composition test were conducted. Subsequently, each participant had three oils applied to nonoverlapping skin areas on the forearms. Skin characteristics were assessed before and 1 h after the oil application using specialized probes: a corneometer and a tewameter. An enhancement in skin hydration was evident after the application of each of the tested oils (p = 0.001). Raspberry oil demonstrated the most significant moisturizing effect, while coconut oil showed the weakest impact. Only raspberry seed oil (p = 0.012) resulted in a noteworthy decrease in TEWL. The initial skin condition did not correlate with the subjects’ body composition, and the improvement induced by the application of the oils was not dependent on body weight, body water content, or BMI (body mass index). The applied vegetable oils positively influence the level of SC hydration. Improvement in barrier function, as measured by TEWL, was observed only for raspberry seed oil. Full article

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30 pages, 4953 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Multifunctional Biotechnological Lip Moisturizer for Lip Repair and Hydration: Development, In Vivo Efficacy Assessment and Sensory Analysis

by Débora Dahmer, Sara Scandorieiro, Briani Gisele Bigotto, Thays Amélio Bergamini, Jennifer Germiniani-Cardozo, Isabela Mazarim da Costa, Renata Katsuko Takayama Kobayashi, Gerson Nakazato, Dionísio Borsato, Sandra Helena Prudencio, Marina Leite Mitterer Daltoé, Maria Antonia Pedrine Colabone Celligoi and Audrey Alesandra Stinghen Garcia Lonni

Cosmetics 2023, 10(6), 166; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10060166 - 05 Dec 2023

Viewed by 3008

Abstract

The demand for sustainable cosmetics leads to the search for natural and biotechnological ingredients. The present study reports the development of a multifunctional lip moisturizer containing levan (LEV) from Bacillus subtilis natto, sophorolipids (SOPs) from Starmerella bombicola and Citrus paradisi (OCP) essential [...] Read more.

The demand for sustainable cosmetics leads to the search for natural and biotechnological ingredients. The present study reports the development of a multifunctional lip moisturizer containing levan (LEV) from Bacillus subtilis natto, sophorolipids (SOPs) from Starmerella bombicola and Citrus paradisi (OCP) essential oil, using a simplex-centroid experimental design. The formulations were evaluated physicochemically, pharmacotechnically and by DPPH assay. The optimized formulation was selected through the Response Surface Method, and the evaluation of its efficiency in lip hydration was carried out using the bioimpedance method and sensory analysis. The formulations showed pH compatibility with lips and remained stable after a centrifuge test and thermal stress. Spreadability varied between 415.3 and 1217.1 mm², moisture retention was above 95% and antioxidant capacity was around 50% for all formulations. The optimized formulation, containing 0.4% LEV and 0.8% SOF, maintained the lip hydration already shown by the participants; 85% of them reported improvement in this aspect. For the first time, LEV and SOP were incorporated in lip moisturizers, which is an environmentally friendly product with marketing potential. Furthermore, the use of the Skin Analyzer Digital equipment, a low-cost and non-invasive technique, to evaluate the effectiveness of lip products is innovative; this methodology may help in the development of future cosmetology studies. Full article

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21 pages, 8729 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Development of a “Green” Emulsion with a Milk Protein Hydrolysate: An Evaluation of Rheology, Texture, In Vitro Bioactivity, and Safety

by Mila Vukašinović, Ivana Pantelić, Sanela Savić, Nebojša Cekić, Maja Vukašinović Sekulić, Jelena Antić Stanković, Dragana D. Božić, Anđela Tošić, Slobodanka Tamburić and Snežana D. Savić

Cosmetics 2023, 10(6), 162; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10060162 - 28 Nov 2023

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 2039

Abstract

Bioactive peptides are promising cosmetic active ingredients that can improve skin health and appearance. They exhibit a broad spectrum of activity, including anti-aging, antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory effects. The aim of this study was to develop a safe, stable, and efficacious environmentally friendly [...] Read more.

Bioactive peptides are promising cosmetic active ingredients that can improve skin health and appearance. They exhibit a broad spectrum of activity, including anti-aging, antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory effects. The aim of this study was to develop a safe, stable, and efficacious environmentally friendly (“green”) emulsion using a milk protein hydrolysate as a model active ingredient. Potential emulsions were formulated with biodegradable emollients, stabilized with naturally derived mixed emulsifier, and prepared by cold process. They were evaluated for rheological behavior (continuous rotation and oscillation tests), physical stability (dynamic mechanical thermal analysis—DMTA test), and texture profiles, as well as cytotoxic, antioxidant, and antimicrobial effects. Rheological characterization revealed shear-thinning flow behavior with yield point from continuous rotation tests and predominantly elastic character from oscillation (amplitude and frequency sweep) tests, with small structural change detected in the DMTA test. These results implied satisfactory rheological properties and good stability. Texture analysis revealed acceptable spreadability and substantivity of the emulsions. The protein hydrolysate showed antioxidant activity. The developed emulsions showed low antibacterial activity against selected microorganisms, but this was due to the action of preservatives, not peptides. All potential emulsions showed a desirable safety profile. The results obtained provide the basis for the next stage of formulation development, i.e., in vivo efficacy tests. Full article

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14 pages, 622 KiB

Open AccessReview

Endocrine Disruptors in Cosmetic Products and the Regulatory Framework: Public Health Implications

by Paraskevi Kalofiri, Foteini Biskanaki, Vasiliki Kefala, Niki Tertipi, Eleni Sfyri and Efstathios Rallis

Cosmetics 2023, 10(6), 160; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10060160 - 24 Nov 2023

Viewed by 3470

Abstract

Endocrine disruptors (EDs) are molecules capable of mimicking the natural hormones of the body and interfering with the endocrine system in both humans and wildlife. Cosmetic products are one source of EDs; these include an extensive variety of personal care and beauty products [...] Read more.

Endocrine disruptors (EDs) are molecules capable of mimicking the natural hormones of the body and interfering with the endocrine system in both humans and wildlife. Cosmetic products are one source of EDs; these include an extensive variety of personal care and beauty products designed for the skin and hair, as well as makeup. The widespread use of such products has raised concerns about the presence of EDs within them. In this study, we highlight the issue of EDs and analyze the functioning of the EU regulatory framework for chemicals, specifically those which act as EDs in cosmetic products. We also highlight issues related to the interface between science and policy in the critical area of risk regulation within the EU. In addition, we investigate how chemical substances that act as EDs are identified based on specific criteria and conditions, a process which involves the production and adoption of particular scientific opinions. Finally, we assess the efficiency, suitability, and effectiveness of the regulatory framework in this sensitive area of human exposure to chemicals, especially those that function as EDs. Full article

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17 pages, 3506 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Characterization and Efficacy of Essential Oil-Based Cosmetic Formulations for Acne-Prone Skin

by Victor Hugo Pacagnelli Infante, Maxim E. Darvin and Patrícia M. B. G. Maia Campos

Cosmetics 2023, 10(6), 158; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10060158 - 16 Nov 2023

Viewed by 2509

Abstract

This randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind clinical in vivo study aimed to evaluate the clinical efficacy of a cosmetic formulation for non-inflammatory acne using essential oils. Fifty-three male participants were divided into four groups: a formulation containing a mixture of four essential oils (4EO), Melaleuca [...] Read more.

This randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind clinical in vivo study aimed to evaluate the clinical efficacy of a cosmetic formulation for non-inflammatory acne using essential oils. Fifty-three male participants were divided into four groups: a formulation containing a mixture of four essential oils (4EO), Melaleuca alternifolia (M.a.), nanoemulsion of M. alternifolia (Nanoem.), and a placebo group. The participants applied the formulation daily for 90 days and non-invasive skin imaging techniques were employed to assess the outcomes. Skin microrelief images and reflectance confocal microscopy images were captured in the malar region, and Raman spectroscopy was used to analyze the terpene composition of the essential oils, oil mixture, and nanoemulsion. The results indicated that the nanoemulsion, M.a. essential oil, and 4EO formulation effectively reduced the overall number of comedone and improved follicular hyperkeratinization. The nanoemulsion of M.a. demonstrated the most promising outcomes in reducing comedone areas, especially in the infundibular region. This effect could be attributed to the presence of terpinene-4-ol in the essential oil and the enhanced penetration provided by the nanoemulsion formulation. These findings suggest that cosmetic formulations containing essential oils, particularly in nanoemulsion form, have potential against mild acne. This study contributes to our understanding of the relationship between terpene composition and clinical activity, highlighting the importance of innovative delivery systems. Full article

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11 pages, 1231 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Long-Term Efficacy and Safety of Dupilumab in Patients with Atopic Dermatitis: A Single-Centre Retrospective Study

by Michela Ortoncelli, Nicole Macagno, Luca Mastorino, Federica Gelato, Irene Richiardi, Giovanni Cavaliere, Pietro Quaglino and Simone Ribero

Cosmetics 2023, 10(6), 153; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10060153 - 07 Nov 2023

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 2043

Abstract

Introduction: There are few long-term effectiveness and safety data for dupilumab in the treatment of atopic dermatitis (AD). The aim of this study was to evaluate efficacy and safety of dupilumab for up to three years after treatment initiation. Materials and Methods: We [...] Read more.

Introduction: There are few long-term effectiveness and safety data for dupilumab in the treatment of atopic dermatitis (AD). The aim of this study was to evaluate efficacy and safety of dupilumab for up to three years after treatment initiation. Materials and Methods: We collected data from patients ≥ 12 years with severe AD who started dupilumab at the Dermatology Clinic of the Turin University Hospital between December 2018 and October 2022. Clinic and patient reported outcomes were evaluated from baseline, up to 3 years (T9), every 4 months. Results: A total of 418 patients were observed. A progressive decrease in the meanEASI was observed: from 23.64 at baseline to 2.31 at T9. Similar trends were observed in patients’ reported outcomes. The achievement of EASI75 and EASI90 was observed in 75.58% of patients and 53.49%, respectively, at T1 (4 months), and in 92.55% and 80.85% at T9; DLQI 0/1 was achieved at T9 in 61.7%. Mean NRSpp ≤ 4 was achieved at T9 in 91.5% (86 out of 94 patients). The most common adverse event was conjunctivitis occurring in 13% of patients on average at each timepoint analyzed. Conclusions: Dupilumab proved to be effective and safe for the treatment of AD in clinical practice, up to 3 years. Full article

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6 pages, 3626 KiB

Open AccessCase Report

Quality-Switched Nd:YAG 1064 nm Laser for Management of Hyperpigmentation and Atrophic Scars after Long-Pulsed Nd:YAG Laser for Treatment of Leg Telangiectasias—A Case Report

by Kristine Heidemeyer, S. Morteza Seyed Jafari, Maurice A. Adatto, Laurence Feldmeyer, Nikhil Yawalkar and Simon Bossart

Cosmetics 2023, 10(6), 147; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10060147 - 25 Oct 2023

Viewed by 3055

Abstract

The correction of leg telangiectasias is one of the most frequently performed interventions in the Western world. While sclerotherapy remains the gold standard of treatment, several studies have shown comparable efficacy and, in some situations, an even more favorable use of lasers as [...] Read more.

The correction of leg telangiectasias is one of the most frequently performed interventions in the Western world. While sclerotherapy remains the gold standard of treatment, several studies have shown comparable efficacy and, in some situations, an even more favorable use of lasers as an alternative treatment option. The most frequent side effect of both treatment options is hyperpigmentation, which usually clears spontaneously in most cases but can be challenging to treat if it persists. The origin of this hyperpigmentation is not fully understood; small studies point to hemosiderin as the causative pigment, at least in post-sclerotherapy hyperpigmentation. More rare side effects of the treatment include ulcerations and scarring. Quality-switched (QS) Nd:YAG lasers have demonstrated good efficacy in treating hemosiderin depositions in the skin, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and atrophic scars. We present a case of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and scarring after laser treatment of leg telangiectasia with a long-pulsed Nd:YAG laser that was successfully treated using a QS Nd:YAG 1064 nm laser. This case suggests the QS Nd:YAG laser as a possible treatment option in cases of hyperpigmentation with various origins, including hemosiderin and melanin, and scarring after laser treatment of leg telangiectasias. Full article

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11 pages, 695 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Impact of COVID-19 Pandemic on Acne Patients and Their Management: An Observational Multicenter Study from Italy

by Marta Grimaldi, Giuseppe Micali, Vincenzo Bettoli, Giulia Odorici, Concetta Potenza, Maria Letizia Musumeci, Sara Cacciapuoti, Giulia Giovanardi, Benedetta Agrifoglio and Cristina Guerriero

Cosmetics 2023, 10(6), 146; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10060146 - 24 Oct 2023

Viewed by 2914

Abstract

Acne vulgaris was one of several diseases whose progression was significantly influenced psychologically by the rapid and protracted alteration of daily routines that occurred during the COVID-19 pandemic, especially for specific populations like adolescents. In order to assess their psychological impact and the [...] Read more.

Acne vulgaris was one of several diseases whose progression was significantly influenced psychologically by the rapid and protracted alteration of daily routines that occurred during the COVID-19 pandemic, especially for specific populations like adolescents. In order to assess their psychological impact and the relationship with the progression of acne vulgaris, this study aims to examine the quality of life, stress, anxiety, and depression of acne patients during the COVID-19 pandemic and their care. This observational, multicenter investigation was carried out in five dermatology clinics in Italy. Data were obtained via a remote telephone interview using questionnaires that were approved by a group of dermatologists and psychiatrists. Evaluations included demographic information, treatment status, disease progression, dietary habits, and employment activities. Some 178 acne vulgaris patients in various stages of systemic or topical medication were included in the study: 47 of 178 (26.4%) patients showed high scores on the HADS anxiety subscale, and 41 of 178 (23%) patients showed high scores on the HADS depression subscale. The Brief Resilience Scale (BRS) was used to measure resilience; 70 patients out of 178 (or 39.3%) showed low resilience (range: 1.00–2.99). In 32 out of 178 patients with PSS, high levels of stress were discovered (18%). Some 50 out of 178 patients experienced alterations in their way of life, including increased acne-related symptoms of relationship humiliation and constraints on everyday activities. Some 52 out of 178 patients (29.2%) said that they felt their condition had gotten worse over the study period. Our findings revealed a potential link between the exacerbation of acne and high levels of anxiety and depressive symptoms, as well as an elevated sense of stress and low or moderate levels of adaptability and resilience. Full article

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12 pages, 2392 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Skin Anti-Aging Effect of Oral Vitamin A Supplementation in Combination with Topical Retinoic Acid Treatment in Comparison with Topical Treatment Alone: A Randomized, Prospective, Assessor-Blinded, Parallel Trial

by Massimo Milani and Francesca Colombo

Cosmetics 2023, 10(5), 144; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10050144 - 18 Oct 2023

Viewed by 5883

Abstract

Topical retinoid treatment is considered a standard therapeutic approach for chrono and photo skin aging. Retinol (vitamin A) is the precursor of endogenous retinoids. A prospective, 12-week, randomized, parallel-group trial comparing the combination of vitamins’ oral supplementation (one capsule daily, 50.000 UI vitamin [...] Read more.

Topical retinoid treatment is considered a standard therapeutic approach for chrono and photo skin aging. Retinol (vitamin A) is the precursor of endogenous retinoids. A prospective, 12-week, randomized, parallel-group trial comparing the combination of vitamins’ oral supplementation (one capsule daily, 50.000 UI vitamin A and 50 mg vitamin E) and a 0.02% retinoic acid topical gel formulation (RG) applied in the evening (Group B) in comparison with the topical RG treatment alone (Group A) was conducted. A total of 60 subjects (men and women, aged >50 years, mean age 60 ± 8 years) with moderate-severe facial skin aging (Glogau score > 2) were enrolled after their written informed consent. Thirty participants were randomly assigned to Group A and 30 to Group B. The primary endpoint was the clinical evaluation of a Skin Aging Global Score (SAGS), at baseline, and after 6 and 12 weeks. A VISIA^® (Canfield Scientific, Parsippany, NJ, USA)face sculptor analysis was performed in a subgroup of 20 subjects. Skin tolerability was evaluated in both groups at weeks 6 and 12. In comparison with the baseline, SAGS scores in both groups were reduced by 13% (Group A) and by 14% (Group B) after 6 weeks and by 22% (Group A) and by 27% (Group B) at week 12. At the end of the study, SAGS score absolute reduction in Group B was significantly greater (p < 0.01) in comparison with the absolute reduction in Group A. Both treatment regimens were well tolerated. The combination of medium-high doses of oral retinol supplementation (Vitamin A) and topical retinoic acid gel showed superior efficacy in terms of clinical improvement in comparison with the topical treatment alone in subjects with moderate/severe skin aging. Full article

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27 pages, 4773 KiB

Open AccessReview

Enhancing Skin Anti-Aging through Healthy Lifestyle Factors

by Helen Knaggs and Edwin D. Lephart

Cosmetics 2023, 10(5), 142; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10050142 - 12 Oct 2023

Cited by 4 | Viewed by 6202

Abstract

Lifestyle health has been recognized as an evidence-based innovation that defines how everyday behaviors and routines influence the avoidance and therapy of illness and provides an important adjunctive component to overall health. Specifically, an approach with small changes over time can have a [...] Read more.

Lifestyle health has been recognized as an evidence-based innovation that defines how everyday behaviors and routines influence the avoidance and therapy of illness and provides an important adjunctive component to overall health. Specifically, an approach with small changes over time can have a dramatic impact on the health and well-being of individuals not only, in general, but also can be applied to skin health. However, lifestyle health factors to improve skin well-being have not been discussed extensively and/or well promulgated. The narrative for this overview focuses on providing a summary for topic background information, but more importantly, presents four lifestyle factors that can improve dermal health [i.e., factor 1: nutrition—diet; factor 2: rest (sleep); factor 3: movement/physical exercise, and factor 4: social and community associations]. This was accomplished by identifying preceding journal reports/reviews covering especially the last five years (January 2018 to July 2023; 164 out of 205 references cited or 80%) using scientific search databases. The main conclusions of this overview encourage the concept that lifestyle health factors such as nutrition/diet, rest/sleep, movement/physical exercise, and community/social interactions support enhanced skin health and well-being with aging. Plus, social media interventions that aim to promote dietary, sleep and physical activity changes might be an application to improve skin health in the future. Full article

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15 pages, 1997 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Effect of Phenolic Compounds Extracted from Turmeric (Curcuma longa L.) and Ginger (Zingiber officinale) on Cutaneous Wound Healing in Wistar Rats

by Chaymae Bouchama, Abdellah Zinedine, João Miguel Rocha, Noureddine Chadli, Lahsen El Ghadraoui, Rachida Chabir, Sidi Mohammed Raoui and Faouzi Errachidi

Cosmetics 2023, 10(5), 137; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10050137 - 02 Oct 2023

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 2403

Abstract

Turmeric and ginger, widely used rhizomes in culinary arts, have several beneficial biological activities, such as hypoglycemic, hepato-protective, antimicrobial, and antioxidant properties. This work investigated the effects of three phenolic extracts isolated from turmeric and ginger rhizomes on anti-inflammatory and healing properties using [...] Read more.

Turmeric and ginger, widely used rhizomes in culinary arts, have several beneficial biological activities, such as hypoglycemic, hepato-protective, antimicrobial, and antioxidant properties. This work investigated the effects of three phenolic extracts isolated from turmeric and ginger rhizomes on anti-inflammatory and healing properties using the solid–liquid extraction method. Wistar rats were used as a biological model. The anti-inflammatory activity was evaluated on induced edema in the rat’s hind paw using carrageenan (1%). Paw volume was measured at 0 min, 45 min, 3 h, and 5 h. Treatment with turmeric and ginger extracts, administered at a dose of 100 mg/kg, revealed a reduction in edema volume by 98.8%, 94.8%, and 98.3% using an aqueous extract of turmeric, ethanolic extract of turmeric, and methanolic extract of ginger, respectively. The healing activity parameters of induced burns on the rat’s dorsal region in nine groups (7 rats each) were monitored daily throughout the experiment’s duration. Results showed that the application of creams composed of petroleum jelly dispersing turmeric and ginger extracts to wounds at a dose of 100 mg/kg g induced complete healing after 19 days while the negative control was only 60% cured. On day 14, the aqueous, ethanolic, and methanolic turmeric extracts nearly resulted in complete tissue repair by 95.26%, 98.34%, and 87.39%, respectively. According to the chromatographic analysis (Sephadex G50 column), there is a variation in the molecular weight distribution of phenolic compounds (polymers, oligomers, and monomers) in the three studied extracts, which has a differential effect on the anti-inflammatory and wound healing activities of the extracts. Full article

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14 pages, 1364 KiB

Open AccessReview

by Iva Japundžić, Massimo Bembić, Bruno Špiljak, Ena Parać, Jelena Macan and Liborija Lugović-Mihić

Cosmetics 2023, 10(5), 134; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10050134 - 25 Sep 2023

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 2254

Abstract

Work-related skin conditions, including work-related irritant and allergic contact dermatitis, rank as the second most prevalent among work-related diseases. The most commonly reported manifestation of these conditions is hand eczema, which develops due to exposure to various substances in the workplace. Understanding the [...] Read more.

Work-related skin conditions, including work-related irritant and allergic contact dermatitis, rank as the second most prevalent among work-related diseases. The most commonly reported manifestation of these conditions is hand eczema, which develops due to exposure to various substances in the workplace. Understanding the origins and triggers of eczema and contact dermatitis enables healthcare professionals to educate themselves and their patients about effective preventive measures, such as avoiding specific irritants and allergens, using protective equipment, and maintaining proper skincare hygiene. Additionally, this knowledge facilitates the development of new recommendations to enhance skin protection in work-related settings, regulate the use of substances known to cause work-related skin diseases, and provide healthcare practitioners with the necessary training to recognize and manage these conditions. Given that approximately one in every five healthcare workers is considered to have hand eczema, the objective of this study was to review the existing literature regarding the characteristics of eczema in healthcare workers. Furthermore, this study aimed to comprehensively investigate environmental and constitutional factors (including years of work experience involving exposure to skin hazards, frequent glove use, regular handwashing and water contact, frequent use of disinfectants and detergents, and a history of previous allergies and atopic dermatitis) that influence the occurrence and progression of eczema. Full article

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22 pages, 3089 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Sustainability by Reduced Energy Consumption during Manufacturing: The Case of Cosmetic Emulsions

by Slobodanka Tamburic, Jana Fröhlich, Shivani Mistry, Ludger Josef Fischer, Tim Barbary, Sylvie Bunyan and Elisabeth Dufton

Cosmetics 2023, 10(5), 132; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10050132 - 20 Sep 2023

Viewed by 2612

Abstract

Energy input in emulsion manufacturing comprises thermal and mechanical energy, with thermal energy being predominant. In terms of raw material selection, there is a widely accepted belief that natural formulations are more “eco-friendly” than their standard (not natural) counterparts. The aim of this [...] Read more.

Energy input in emulsion manufacturing comprises thermal and mechanical energy, with thermal energy being predominant. In terms of raw material selection, there is a widely accepted belief that natural formulations are more “eco-friendly” than their standard (not natural) counterparts. The aim of this study was to compare the energy consumption and subsequent carbon footprint resulting from the production of two main emulsion types, each represented by its standard and natural variant and made by using different manufacturing processes (hot, hot-cold and cold). This resulted in six samples of oil-in-water (O/W) and water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion types, respectively. Scale-down calculations were used to establish the required homogenisation time and speed of the laboratory homogeniser, necessary to achieve the same shear rates as the chosen industrial vessel. The resulting emulsions were characterised using rheological and textural analysis. The six emulsions within each emulsion type have exhibited sufficiently similar characteristics for the purpose of carbon footprint comparisons. Calculations were conducted to quantify the energy input of hot and hot-cold procedures, followed by cradle-to-gate life cycle analysis (LCA). Energy calculations demonstrated that the hot-cold manufacturing process saved approximately 82% (for O/W) and 86% (for W/O) of thermal energy in comparison to the hot process. LCA has shown that the effects of using natural instead of standard ingredients were negative, i.e., it led to a higher carbon footprint. However, it was dwarfed by the effect of the energy used, specifically thermal energy during manufacturing. This strongly indicates that the most efficient way for companies to reduce their carbon footprint is to use the hot-cold emulsification process. Full article

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12 pages, 726 KiB

Open AccessReview

Topical AHA in Dermatology: Formulations, Mechanisms of Action, Efficacy, and Future Perspectives

by Kanwarpreet Karwal and Ilya Mukovozov

Cosmetics 2023, 10(5), 131; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10050131 - 19 Sep 2023

Viewed by 8453

Abstract

The utilization of topical formulations containing alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) has garnered considerable attention. This review summarizes the effectiveness of the most common topical AHA formulations, including mechanisms of action and future research directions. AHAs have a dramatic impact on diverse skin conditions, [...] Read more.

The utilization of topical formulations containing alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) has garnered considerable attention. This review summarizes the effectiveness of the most common topical AHA formulations, including mechanisms of action and future research directions. AHAs have a dramatic impact on diverse skin conditions, enhancing texture and stimulating collagen synthesis. Uncertainties persist regarding optimal concentration, pH, and vehicle for maximum efficacy. Advancements in formulation technologies offer opportunities for AHA penetration and stability. Understanding mechanisms is vital for skincare optimization. The review covers AHAs, their concentrations, formulation considerations, safety measures, and future directions. Full article

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27 pages, 4362 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Psychobiotics-like Activity as a Novel Treatment against Dry Scalp Related-White Flakes Production with Pogostemon cablin Leaf Extract

by Marie Meunier, Emilie Chapuis, Cyrille Jarrin, Julia Brooks, Heather Carolan, Jean Tiguemounine, Carole Lambert, Bénédicte Sennelier-Portet, Catherine Zanchetta, Amandine Scandolera and Romain Reynaud

Cosmetics 2023, 10(5), 130; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10050130 - 15 Sep 2023

Viewed by 1757

Abstract

Microbiome supplementation initially targeted the gut microbiota but has since been extended to the skin. A new category, psychobiotics, defined beneficial compounds with a positive action on microbiota, providing benefits to the host’s mental health. Pogostemon cablin leaf extract, proven to alleviate scalp [...] Read more.

Microbiome supplementation initially targeted the gut microbiota but has since been extended to the skin. A new category, psychobiotics, defined beneficial compounds with a positive action on microbiota, providing benefits to the host’s mental health. Pogostemon cablin leaf extract, proven to alleviate scalp dryness, was clinically evaluated on volunteers presenting dry scalp with flakes. A metagenomics study and sebum production analysis were performed, coupled to flakes scoring. The benefits of Pogostemon cablin leaf extract on emotions were assessed through three neuroscientific methods. Through this study, we proved that the skin microbiota of dry scalp was imbalanced, with increased alpha diversity and decreased Cutibacterium relative abundance compared to oilier skin. After applying our ingredient for one month, microbiota was rebalanced with a decrease in alpha diversity and increase in Cutibacterium relative abundance compared to the initial profile. Microbiota rebalancing led to an increase in scalp sebum and decrease in dry flakes compared to the start of the study. This global rebalancing improved the emotional state of people with scalp dryness who expressed more positive emotions after treatment. Full article

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11 pages, 675 KiB

Open AccessSystematic Review

Cannabinoids for the Treatment of Hair, Scalp, and Skin Disorders: A Systematic Review

by Meagan Popp, Steven Latta, Betty Nguyen, Colombina Vincenzi and Antonella Tosti

Cosmetics 2023, 10(5), 129; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10050129 - 15 Sep 2023

Viewed by 3604

Abstract

Cannabinoid products have been studied in the treatment of various dermatologic conditions. We searched PubMed/MEDLINE for articles published before 1 February 2023 that described the use of cannabinoids in the management of hair, scalp, and skin conditions, identifying 18 original articles that encompassed [...] Read more.

Cannabinoid products have been studied in the treatment of various dermatologic conditions. We searched PubMed/MEDLINE for articles published before 1 February 2023 that described the use of cannabinoids in the management of hair, scalp, and skin conditions, identifying 18 original articles that encompassed 1090 patients who used various forms of cannabinoid products. Where specified, topical cannabidiol (CBD) was the most commonly utilized treatment (64.3%, 173/269), followed by oral dronabinol (14.4%, 39/269), oral lenabasum (14.1%, 38/269), and oral hempseed oil (5.9%, 16/269). Using the GRADE approach, we found moderate-quality evidence supporting the efficacy of cannabinoid products in managing atopic dermatitis, dermatomyositis, psoriasis, and systemic sclerosis and moderate-quality evidence supporting a lack of efficacy in treating trichotillomania. There was low to very low quality evidence supporting the efficacy of cannabinoid products in managing alopecia areata, epidermolysis bullosa, hyperhidrosis, seborrheic dermatitis, and pruritus. Our findings suggest that cannabinoids may have efficacy in managing symptoms of certain inflammatory dermatologic conditions. However, the evidence is still limited, and there is no standardized dosage or route of administration for these products. Large randomized controlled trials and further studies with standardized treatment regimens are necessary to better understand the safety and efficacy of cannabinoids. Full article

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0 pages, 2593 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Effect of the Hypoxic Chamber Training Series on Skin Characteristics of Overweight and Obese Women

by Anna Grodecka, Olga Czerwińska-Ledwig, Adrianna Dzidek, Wiktoria Lis, Dorota Cwalińska, Weronika Kozioł, Aneta Teległów, Tomasz Pałka and Anna Piotrowska

Cosmetics 2023, 10(5), 128; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10050128 - 14 Sep 2023

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1372

Abstract

Obesity is a disease of civilization. The COVID-19 pandemic has caused an increase in its incidence; therefore, there is an increasing emphasis on programs aimed at improving body composition, often through physical activity. Various modifications to training interventions are being introduced, including the [...] Read more.

Obesity is a disease of civilization. The COVID-19 pandemic has caused an increase in its incidence; therefore, there is an increasing emphasis on programs aimed at improving body composition, often through physical activity. Various modifications to training interventions are being introduced, including the modification of the thermo-climatic conditions of the training. However, to date, whether such a modification is safe for the skin has not been studied. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effects of a series of workouts in a hypoxic chamber on skin characteristics such as elasticity, hydration, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Women who were overweight or obese were invited to participate in the project. The workouts took place in a hypoxic chamber where conditions were mimicked at 2500 m, three times a week for a period of four weeks, for 60 min each. Finally, the results from 11 women in the study group and 9 in the control group were included in the analysis. Body composition analysis was performed, and venous blood was drawn (morphology and lipidogram). No statistically significant changes in skin firmness or the amount of TEWL were observed in the subjects. An increase in skin hydration on the hand was observed only after the first workout (p = 0.046), while skin hydration on the mandible did not change. A significant reduction in body weight (p = 0.042), BMI (p = 0.045), and TBW (p = 0.017) was indicated in the study group. The control group showed an increase in BMI (p = 0.045) and VFA (p = 0.042). There was no correlation between measured skin characteristics and body composition indices or the results of blood indices. A correlation was observed between TEWL and lipidogram results. Training under hypoxic conditions does not affect skin features in overweight and obese women. Even a significant reduction in TBW did not result in a decrease in hydration. It was also shown that the proper barrier function of the skin is closely dependent on the serum lipid profile. Full article

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14 pages, 943 KiB

Open AccessReview

Applications of Beehive Products for Wound Repair and Skin Care

by Simona Martinotti, Gregorio Bonsignore and Elia Ranzato

Cosmetics 2023, 10(5), 127; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10050127 - 14 Sep 2023

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 2829

Abstract

There is a long and interesting history between honeybees and humans. From the beginning, honey has been utilized not only as a sweetener, but also as an ointment and a drug to treat several diseases. Until the discovery of antibiotics, honey was a [...] Read more.

There is a long and interesting history between honeybees and humans. From the beginning, honey has been utilized not only as a sweetener, but also as an ointment and a drug to treat several diseases. Until the discovery of antibiotics, honey was a very popular product used to protect and preserve skin and promote wound healing, to counteract gastrointestinal pains and disorders of the oral cavity, and for other diseases. After the development of antibiotic resistance, honey again gained interest for its use in wound management. Subsequently, more recently, in vitro and in vivo studies have displayed antimicrobial, antioxidant, and other effects of honey and honeybee products, as well as protection of cardiovascular, respiratory, nervous, and gastrointestinal systems. Moreover, recent studies have demonstrated that beehive products are also able to influence the phenotype of skin cells, such as keratinocytes, fibroblasts, and endothelial cells, involved in correct wound healing. This review will characterize the great potential of honeybee products in the field of health and skin care, considering that honey is a virtually inexhaustible natural resource which people, as bees have been domesticated over the centuries, can freely access. Full article

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12 pages, 1433 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Sequential and Combined Efficacious Management of Auricular Keloid: A Novel Treatment Protocol Employing Ablative CO₂ and Dye Laser Therapy—An Advanced Single-Center Clinical Investigation

by Simone Amato, Steven Paul Nisticò, Giovanni Pellacani, Stefania Guida, Anthony Rossi, Caterina Longo, Enzo Berardesca and Giovanni Cannarozzo

Cosmetics 2023, 10(5), 126; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10050126 - 08 Sep 2023

Viewed by 1516

Abstract

Auricular keloids pose significant aesthetic and functional challenges, and traditional treatments often fall short in addressing these issues. Our study presents an innovative combined approach of ablative CO₂ and dye laser therapy for improved keloid management. This treatment protocol was applied to [...] Read more.

Auricular keloids pose significant aesthetic and functional challenges, and traditional treatments often fall short in addressing these issues. Our study presents an innovative combined approach of ablative CO₂ and dye laser therapy for improved keloid management. This treatment protocol was applied to 15 patients with auricular keloids after an initial multispectral analysis to assess keloid composition. The laser sequence was tailored per patient based on this analysis. Evaluations using the Vancouver Scar Scale and Patient and Observer Scar Assessment Scale were carried out at baseline and at 3-week intervals post-treatment. The results showed a significant reduction in these scores at the final follow-up (p < 0.05), suggesting improvements in keloid color, texture, and pliability, with minimal adverse events. Additionally, no recurrence of keloids was observed. Our findings indicate that this novel methodology of multispectral analysis followed by tailored laser therapy may offer a safe and effective solution for auricular keloids, promising enhanced keloid treatment and prevention of recurrence. However, further investigations, including randomized controlled trials, are needed to confirm and optimize this treatment protocol. Full article

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13 pages, 1885 KiB

Open AccessReview

Carotenoids and Dermoaesthetic Benefits: Public Health Implications

by Foteini Biskanaki, Paraskevi Kalofiri, Niki Tertipi, Eleni Sfyri, Eleni Andreou, Vasiliki Kefala and Efstathios Rallis

Cosmetics 2023, 10(5), 120; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10050120 - 28 Aug 2023

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 2208

Abstract

Food technology, health, nutrition, dermatology, and aesthetics have focused on colorless carotenoids. Carotenoids are readily bioavailable and have demonstrated various health-promoting actions. This article reviews the recent literature concerning carotenoids with the aim to systematize the scattered knowledge on carotenoids and aesthetics. The [...] Read more.

Food technology, health, nutrition, dermatology, and aesthetics have focused on colorless carotenoids. Carotenoids are readily bioavailable and have demonstrated various health-promoting actions. This article reviews the recent literature concerning carotenoids with the aim to systematize the scattered knowledge on carotenoids and aesthetics. The applications of carotenoids in health-promoting and nutrient products and their potential health effects are discussed. The carotenoids, particularly phytoene and phytofluene, have the unique ability to absorb ultraviolet radiation. Their distinct structures and properties, oxidation sensitivity, stiffness, aggregation tendency, and even fluorescence in the case of phytofluene, contribute to their potential benefits. A diet rich in carotenoid-containing products can positively impact skin health, overall well-being, and the prevention of various diseases. Future studies should focus on generating more data about phytoene and phytofluene levels in the skin to accurately assess skin carotenoid status. This expanding area of research holds promise for the development of novel applications in the fields of health and cosmetics. Full article

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14 pages, 1209 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Reporting Quality of Randomized Controlled Trial Abstracts on Aesthetic Use of Botulinum Toxin: How Much Do Abstracts Actually Tell Us?

by Ante Sucic, Ana Seselja Perisin, Tomislav Zuvela, Dario Leskur, Doris Rusic, Darko Modun and Josipa Bukic

Cosmetics 2023, 10(5), 119; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10050119 - 23 Aug 2023

Viewed by 1359

Abstract

Botulinum toxin use has become the most commonly performed aesthetic procedure among individuals of all age groups, encompassing both women and men. Randomized controlled trials (RCTs) provide the highest level of evidence and quality reporting of their abstracts plays a significant role for [...] Read more.

Botulinum toxin use has become the most commonly performed aesthetic procedure among individuals of all age groups, encompassing both women and men. Randomized controlled trials (RCTs) provide the highest level of evidence and quality reporting of their abstracts plays a significant role for health professionals, influencing their decision-making in patient management. Therefore, our study aimed to assess the reporting quality of published RCT abstracts for botulinum toxin aesthetic use in the head area. The CONSORT-A checklist with 17 items was used to assess the quality of reporting. All available RCT abstracts (N = 191) found by searching the Medline database that were published up until June 2023 were included in this study. The average reporting rate was 52.9%. General items were inadequately reported (30.9%), with few abstracts describing the trial design. The methods section was better reported (62.0%), with interventions, objectives, and outcomes properly reported in over 97.5% abstracts. The results section (56.9%) demonstrated good reporting of randomized participant numbers but limited reporting of primary outcomes and harms. None of the abstracts reported funding sources or randomization information. To enhance the transparency and reliability of RCT results, abstracts should adhere more rigorously to the CONSORT-A guidelines. Improved reporting in abstracts can facilitate evidence-based decision-making in everyday practice of medical professionals in the field of aesthetic medicine. Full article

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14 pages, 2116 KiB

Open AccessReview

Filler Migration after Facial Injection—A Narrative Review

by Uwe Wollina and Alberto Goldman

Cosmetics 2023, 10(4), 115; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040115 - 17 Aug 2023

Cited by 3 | Viewed by 9004

Abstract

Background: The injection of dermal fillers for facial esthetics has become a very popular procedure. Although usually safe in the hands of the experienced user, filler injections may bear a risk of unwanted side effects. Material and Methods: This is a narrative review [...] Read more.

Background: The injection of dermal fillers for facial esthetics has become a very popular procedure. Although usually safe in the hands of the experienced user, filler injections may bear a risk of unwanted side effects. Material and Methods: This is a narrative review of dermal filler migration after facial injections. We performed research on the literature on Pubmed and Google Scholar. Inclusion criteria were observational studies, case reports, and clinical trials which investigated the association of facial filler injections to filler migration. Animal studies have not been considered. Intravascular injections were excluded. Results: We identified 28 reports that met the inclusion criteria. The age range of affected patients was 21 to 86 years (mean ± standard deviation: 47 ± 14.8 years). Women were 25 times more reported than males. Hyaluronic acid and polyalkylimide were the most commonly encountered filler substances. Injections into the nose, lips, nasolabial folds, and forehead (including glabella) are more often reported for filler migration than injections into the cheeks. Tear-trough correction bears a risk for orbital migration. The delay from injection to presentation of filler migration was highly variable. Very late filler migration was more commonly seen with permanent fillers than non-permanent products. Conclusions: Filler migration distant from the injection site can occur even several years after the primary treatment. All filler types can be involved. Permanent fillers bear a higher risk of very late filler migration. Migration of permanent fillers needs surgical treatment, while HA fillers respond to hyaluronidase injections. Detailed knowledge of facial anatomy, safer injection techniques, and filler qualities are preventive measures. Full article

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21 pages, 419 KiB

Open AccessReview

Olea europea and By-Products: Extraction Methods and Cosmetic Applications

by Cecilia Dauber, Emma Parente, María Pía Zucca, Adriana Gámbaro and Ignacio Vieitez

Cosmetics 2023, 10(4), 112; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040112 - 03 Aug 2023

Cited by 3 | Viewed by 2584

Abstract

Currently, in addition to the use of olive oil in cosmetics, the use of olive-derived bioactives and their incorporation into cosmetics is a growing trend. The olive oil industry produces vast quantities of by-products, such as olive mill wastewater, olive pomace and leaves [...] Read more.

Currently, in addition to the use of olive oil in cosmetics, the use of olive-derived bioactives and their incorporation into cosmetics is a growing trend. The olive oil industry produces vast quantities of by-products, such as olive mill wastewater, olive pomace and leaves from which new ingredients may be obtained for cosmetic use. In this way, by-products are revalorized, which contributes to the implementation of a sustainable economy or upcycling. This review intends to provide a detailed overview of the different extraction techniques reported in order to obtain the bioactive compounds of cosmetic value that can be found in olive by-products: fatty acids, tocopherols, polyphenols, phytosterols and squalene. Different extraction techniques are presented, including some traditional techniques (solid–liquid extraction) and more novel or “greener” ones: ultrasound, microwave, supercritical extraction, pressurized fluids and deep eutectic solvents. Additionally, different applications of olive by-products in skin care products are explored: emollient, antioxidant, anti-age, anti-inflammatory, antiviral, antifungal and antibacterial, and the perspective of consumers is also considered since they increasingly demand products formulated with natural ingredients. Full article

18 pages, 986 KiB

Open AccessReview

Insights into Bioactive Peptides in Cosmetics

by Le Thi Nhu Ngoc, Ju-Young Moon and Young-Chul Lee

Cosmetics 2023, 10(4), 111; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040111 - 02 Aug 2023

Cited by 3 | Viewed by 13233

Abstract

Bioactive peptides have gained significant attention in the cosmetic industry due to their potential in enhancing skin health and beauty. These small protein fragments exhibit various biological activities, such as antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial activities, making them ideal ingredients for cosmetic formulations. [...] Read more.

Bioactive peptides have gained significant attention in the cosmetic industry due to their potential in enhancing skin health and beauty. These small protein fragments exhibit various biological activities, such as antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial activities, making them ideal ingredients for cosmetic formulations. These bioactive peptides are classified into four categories: signal, carrier, neurotransmitter-inhibitory, and enzyme-inhibitory peptides. This review provides insight into applying bioactive peptides in cosmetics and their mechanisms of action (e.g., downregulating pro-inflammatory cytokines, radical scavenging, inhibiting collagen, tyrosinase, and elastase synthesis). The abundant natural origins (e.g., animals, plants, and marine sources) have been identified as primary sources for extractions of cosmetic peptides through various techniques (e.g., enzymatic hydrolysis, ultrafiltration, fermentation, and high-performance liquid chromatography). Furthermore, the safety and regulatory aspects of using peptides in cosmetics are examined, including potential allergic reactions and regulatory guidelines. Finally, the challenges of peptides in cosmetics are discussed, emphasizing the need for further research to fully harness their potential in enhancing skin health. Overall, this review provides a comprehensive understanding of the application of peptides in cosmetics, shedding light on their transformative role in developing innovative and effective skincare products. Full article

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12 pages, 2318 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Citrulluside T, Isolated from the Citrullus lanatus Stem, Inhibits Melanogenesis in α-MSH-Induced Mouse B16F10 Cells

by Hyeon-Mi Kim, Mi-Yeon Moon and Chang-Gu Hyun

Cosmetics 2023, 10(4), 108; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040108 - 21 Jul 2023

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1417

Abstract

With the increasing number of cosmetic consumers emphasizing value consumption and sustainability, upcycling has gained attention as a solution to agricultural by-products, which are the main culprits of environmental problems. In this study, we isolated citrulluside T with whitening activity from discarded Citrullus [...] Read more.

With the increasing number of cosmetic consumers emphasizing value consumption and sustainability, upcycling has gained attention as a solution to agricultural by-products, which are the main culprits of environmental problems. In this study, we isolated citrulluside T with whitening activity from discarded Citrullus lanatus stems and investigated the anti-melanogenic effect of citrulluside T and the underlying mechanisms. We found that citrulluside T did not exhibit cytotoxicity up to a concentration of 90 μM and significantly reduced the melanin content and intracellular tyrosinase activity in B16F10 cells. In addition, citrulluside T inhibited the expression of melanogenic enzymes such as tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1, and TRP-2, as well as melanin synthesis via cAMP-dependent protein kinase (PKA)/cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB)-mediated downregulation of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), a key transcription factor in melanogenesis. Furthermore, we found that citrulluside T exerted its anti-melanogenic effect by downregulating the β-catenin protein and upregulating phosphorylated β-catenin. Finally, we confirmed that citrulluside T was safe for skin through skin irritation tests on 33 subjects, suggesting its applicability as a protective agent against hyperpigmentation for topical applications such as cosmetics and ointments. Full article

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14 pages, 1308 KiB

Open AccessReview

Hair Lipid Structure: Effect of Surfactants

by Luisa Coderch, Cristina Alonso, M. Teresa García, Lourdes Pérez and Meritxell Martí

Cosmetics 2023, 10(4), 107; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040107 - 19 Jul 2023

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 6836

Abstract

Human hair fibres are mainly comprised of proteins (>90%) and lipids (1–9%), which are characterised as exogenous or endogenous, depending on whether they originate from sebaceous glands or hair matrix cells, respectively. Exogenous lipids consist of free fatty acids (FFAs), triglycerides, cholesterol (CH), [...] Read more.

Human hair fibres are mainly comprised of proteins (>90%) and lipids (1–9%), which are characterised as exogenous or endogenous, depending on whether they originate from sebaceous glands or hair matrix cells, respectively. Exogenous lipids consist of free fatty acids (FFAs), triglycerides, cholesterol (CH), wax esters, and squalene. Endogenous hair lipids comprise FFAs, CH, ceramides, glycosylceramides, cholesterol sulfate, and 18-methyleicosanoic acid. Lipids were demonstrated to be fundamental against damage and maintenance of healthy hair. Several studies have evaluated the effects of hair lipid content and have shown how hair properties were altered when lipids were removed by solvent extraction. The effect of surfactants on hair lipids is difficult to determine, as the complex structure of the cell membrane complex makes it difficult to determine where surfactants act. Shampoos and conditioners contain surfactants that remove lipids during routine cleansing of hair. However, shampooing does not completely remove all free lipids from the surface layers. The effect of surfactants on the alteration and removal of structural lipids is poorly developed, and there is no consensus on the results. Further research on the lipid composition of the hair could provide information on the penetration pathways of surfactants to improve effectiveness and limit possible damage. Full article

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11 pages, 2020 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Follicular Delivery of Caffeine from a Shampoo for Hair Retention

by Loris Busch, Anna Lena Klein, James R. Schwartz, Kathleen Pearson, Heike Richter, Sabine Schanzer, Silke B. Lohan, Fabian Schumacher, Burkhard Kleuser and Martina C. Meinke

Cosmetics 2023, 10(4), 104; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040104 - 17 Jul 2023

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 3699

Abstract

A key factor in the prevention of hair loss is the provision of optimal conditions on the scalp. In this regard, reduction of oxidative stress on the scalp is one critical requirement to support the hair follicles to function optimally. Recently, a novel [...] Read more.

A key factor in the prevention of hair loss is the provision of optimal conditions on the scalp. In this regard, reduction of oxidative stress on the scalp is one critical requirement to support the hair follicles to function optimally. Recently, a novel shampoo formulation technology containing anti-oxidants such as piroctone olamine has been demonstrated to improve hair retention based on micellar degradation and coacervation effects. Caffeine has also been shown to exhibit anti-oxidant activity including the ability to inhibit lipid peroxidation. As with piroctone olamine, it is expected that follicular delivery of caffeine will enhance its anti-oxidant activity in a region that will be beneficial for hair retention. In this study, two shampoo formulations as well as a control formulation were applied to the calf area of n = 9 male participants. The technique of differential tape stripping was applied to obtain the caffeine penetrated to the stratum corneum and to the hair follicles. Isotope-dilution liquid chromatography coupled with tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) was performed to demonstrate caffeine follicular delivery from the shampoo formulas. The results showed that the percentage of caffeine recovered in the hair follicles was 8–9% of the caffeine absorbed into the skin and matched an existing caffeine-based shampoo. In conclusion, a novel shampoo formulation technology has been developed that effectively delivers beneficial anti-oxidants to improve hair retention. This new shampoo is expected to be especially useful in the goal of retaining hair during aging. Full article

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8 pages, 1544 KiB

Open AccessCommunication

Brevundimonas aurantiaca M3d10, Isolated from the Olive Fly, Produces Hydroxylated Astaxanthin

by Marisanna Centini, Isabel Martinez-Sañudo, Marco Biagi, Elena Dreassi, Luca Mazzon and Laura Marri

Cosmetics 2023, 10(4), 103; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040103 - 15 Jul 2023

Viewed by 1515

Abstract

In recent years, the exploitation of bacteria for the production of carotenoids has become of great interest as a sustainable alternative to chemical synthesis, which is expensive and technically challenging. This study contributes to the repertoire of carotenogenic bacteria by reporting the isolation [...] Read more.

In recent years, the exploitation of bacteria for the production of carotenoids has become of great interest as a sustainable alternative to chemical synthesis, which is expensive and technically challenging. This study contributes to the repertoire of carotenogenic bacteria by reporting the isolation of an orange-pigmented bacterium from the gut of adult olive flies. The novel isolate, designated as M3d10, shared 100% identity with Brevundimonas aurantiaca strain CB-R 16S ribosomal RNA, and, through a preliminary characterization, its orange pigment was predicted to be a hydroxylated astaxanthin derivative. Full article

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22 pages, 2131 KiB

Open AccessReview

Ultraviolet Filters for Cosmetic Applications

by Georgiana Nitulescu, Dumitru Lupuliasa, Ines Adam-Dima and George Mihai Nitulescu

Cosmetics 2023, 10(4), 101; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040101 - 12 Jul 2023

Cited by 4 | Viewed by 6655

Abstract

Sunscreens reduce the occurrence risk of skin disorders such as sunburn, skin aging, and cancer through their ability to absorb, reflect, and scatter ultraviolet (UV) radiation. This review provides an overview of UV filters as active ingredients of sunscreen products, emphasizing their classification [...] Read more.

Sunscreens reduce the occurrence risk of skin disorders such as sunburn, skin aging, and cancer through their ability to absorb, reflect, and scatter ultraviolet (UV) radiation. This review provides an overview of UV filters as active ingredients of sunscreen products, emphasizing their classification and structural characteristics. Their photostability, mechanism of action of ultraviolet radiation absorption, optical properties, and regulatory status are discussed based on their chemical structure. The main classes of organic UV filters presented include aminobenzoic acid derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, cinnamic acid derivatives, benzophenones, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, benzylidene camphor derivatives, triazines, benzimidazole derivatives, and benzotriazole derivatives. The pursuit of new UV filters through research is crucial in advancing sunscreen technology and ensuring the availability of effective and safe options for sun protection. Full article

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12 pages, 2458 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Modulation of Cutaneous Carotenoid Content via Ozone Exposure

by Franco Cervellati, Mascia Benedusi, Angela Mastaloudis, Vittoria Nagliati and Giuseppe Valacchi

Cosmetics 2023, 10(4), 97; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040097 - 04 Jul 2023

Viewed by 1265

Abstract

Ozone (O₃) is a harmful air pollutant to which we are constantly exposed. Given its strong oxidizing effects and pervasiveness in the air we breathe, O₃ is especially damaging to target organs in the respiratory system (e.g., lungs) and the [...] Read more.

Ozone (O₃) is a harmful air pollutant to which we are constantly exposed. Given its strong oxidizing effects and pervasiveness in the air we breathe, O₃ is especially damaging to target organs in the respiratory system (e.g., lungs) and the integumentary apparatus (e.g., skin). Both of these systems act as a barrier and are able to limit the penetration of atmospheric pollutants into the body. In this regard, skin—the largest and main barrier against atmospheric intrusions—offers continuous protection against environmental intrusions. The skin is equipped with several defensive molecules that act as protective intracellular antioxidants against oxidative intrusions, including O₃. Among these antioxidants are carotenoids, a family of lipophilic phytonutrients that are abundant in fruits and vegetables. It is well established that carotenoids accumulate in the epidermis layer of the skin, where they confer protection against oxidative intrusions and modulate inflammation, and that there is a direct correlation between skin and serum carotenoids level. The present study aimed to evaluate the variations in carotenoid content present in human skin prior to and after O₃ exposure in 141 human subjects. Carotenoids were measured non-invasively using a resonance Raman spectroscopy (RRS)-based photonic device (Pharmanex BioPhotonic Scanner (BPS) Nu Skin Enterprises). In each volunteer, RRS skin carotenoids were determined at baseline and after 15 and 30 min of exposure to O₃ 0.8 ppm. The data obtained have an indicative value for individual variations in the cutaneous carotenoids, which have been shown to correlate with plasmatic contents. After the first 15 min of O₃ exposure, there was a modulation of skin carotenoids, confirming their importance in the maintenance of cutaneous redox homeostasis. Full article

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16 pages, 616 KiB

Open AccessReview

Active Ingredients and Natural Raw Materials Used in Foot Care in Diabetic Patients—A Literature Review

by Aleksandra Krawiec, Olga Czerwińska-Ledwig, Bartłomiej Kita and Anna Piotrowska

Cosmetics 2023, 10(4), 96; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040096 - 28 Jun 2023

Viewed by 3470

Abstract

Diabetic foot syndrome is the leading cause of limb loss due to non-healing ulcers. Repeated injuries, abnormal foot loads, and ischemia lead to ulcers. Poor shoe selection and inadequate care worsen the situation. Lack of patient education contributes to bacterial infections, tissue necrosis, [...] Read more.

Diabetic foot syndrome is the leading cause of limb loss due to non-healing ulcers. Repeated injuries, abnormal foot loads, and ischemia lead to ulcers. Poor shoe selection and inadequate care worsen the situation. Lack of patient education contributes to bacterial infections, tissue necrosis, and amputation. Vigilant observation and regular care can reduce wound size and prevent new wounds. Cleansing, infection control, and pressure relief are crucial in diabetic foot treatment. In this review, the effect of selected active ingredients and natural raw materials used for topical application in the care of diabetic foot was analyzed. The main focus used was on ingredients of natural origin—research studies utilizing emollients, humectants, plant extracts, and animal-derived ingredients were discussed. In addition, research studies on the application of nanomaterials, ozone and stem cells are also discussed. The cosmetics industry and manufacturers of podiatric products play a vital role in diabetic care. They should prioritize proper formulation, optimal ingredient doses, and skin microbiome control. Educating diabetics and using cosmetic products with self-massage elements can reduce the risk of hard-to-heal ulcers. Full article

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14 pages, 4773 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Improvement of Human Epidermal Barrier Structure and Lipid Profile in Xerotic- and Atopic-Prone Skin via Application of a Plant-Oil and Urea Containing pH 4.5 Emulsion

by Jürgen Blaak, Dorothee Dähnhardt, Stephan Bielfeldt, Christiane Theiss, Isabel Simon, Klaus-Peter Wilhelm, Stephan Dähnhardt-Pfeiffer and Peter Staib

Cosmetics 2023, 10(4), 95; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040095 - 25 Jun 2023

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 2167

Abstract

Epidermal barrier dysfunction can lead to xerotic skin and promote skin disorders like atopic dermatitis. Atopic skin is characterized by reduced water-retaining compounds, altered lipid composition and elevated skin pH. Against this background, a study was conducted to investigate the impact of a [...] Read more.

Epidermal barrier dysfunction can lead to xerotic skin and promote skin disorders like atopic dermatitis. Atopic skin is characterized by reduced water-retaining compounds, altered lipid composition and elevated skin pH. Against this background, a study was conducted to investigate the impact of a specific skin care product on epidermal barrier function in dry and atopic-prone skin. A marketed pH 4.5 cosmetic formulation containing 10% urea and specific plant oils was evaluated on 25 subjects with dry and atopic-prone skin. Measurements of skin hydration, pH, and barrier function were performed before and after 3 weeks of product usage. Additionally, visual scoring and stratum corneum lipid analysis using electron microscopy were conducted to investigate lipid composition. An improved skin hydration compared to the untreated area and a tendency to decrease the baseline elevated skin surface pH were observed. The visual scoring showed reduced dryness, roughness, and tension through the application. Furthermore, the stratum corneum lipid matrix was improved in terms of lipid content and organization. The combination of an acidic product’s pH, a relevant urea content and effective plant oils is shown to be beneficial in terms of improving the skin barrier function, structure and appearance and is recommended for dry and atopic-prone skin. Full article

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27 pages, 729 KiB

Open AccessReview

Hydrobiome of Thermal Waters: Potential Use in Dermocosmetics

by María Lourdes Mourelle, Carmen P. Gómez and José L. Legido

Cosmetics 2023, 10(4), 94; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10040094 - 21 Jun 2023

Cited by 3 | Viewed by 3131

Abstract

Over the course of the last 20 years, numerous studies have identified the benefits of thermal waters on different skin conditions. Consequently, several investigations have been carried out on their effects on the skin, which are linked to their chemical composition, and, recently, [...] Read more.

Over the course of the last 20 years, numerous studies have identified the benefits of thermal waters on different skin conditions. Consequently, several investigations have been carried out on their effects on the skin, which are linked to their chemical composition, and, recently, scientists have turned their attention to the role of the thermal spring’s microbiota, named “hydrobiome”, regarding these therapeutic effects. At the same time, the development of cosmetics based on pre, pro, and postbiotics has reached great relevance and research is increasing every day. This review gathers information on the biological diversity of thermal spring waters and their potential use in obtaining biological compounds, metabolites, or bacterial extracts for use in dermocosmetics as active ingredients. These bioactive compounds are able to improve dermatological diseases such as atopic dermatitis or rosacea and ameliorate pruritus and xerosis; moreover, they can increase protection against UV exposure, strengthen barrier function, maintain good homeostasis of skin defenses, repair damaged skin, promote wound healing, improve skin condition, reduce uneven skin pigmentation, and prevent skin aging. From a future perspective, fruitful cooperation among researchers, hydrologists, thermal spa centers, and cosmetic industries will drive this sector toward a better understanding of the role of the hydrobiome of thermal spring waters on healthy skin and dermatological diseases and consider the inclusion of derivatives of this hydrobiome (in the form of fermenters, lysates, extracts, etc.) in dermocosmetic formulations. Therefore, and being aware of the potential of the hydrobiome in dermatological and skin care applications, the future prospects for the use of bioactive substances derived from it in dermocosmetic formulations are promising. Full article

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12 pages, 1362 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Tolerability and Effectiveness of Marine-Based Ingredients in Cosmetics: A Split-Face Clinical Study of a Serum Spray Containing Fucus vesiculosus Extract, Ulva lactuca Extract, and Ectoin

by Ciska Janssens-Böcker, Karin Wiesweg and Claudia Doberenz

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 93; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030093 - 16 Jun 2023

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 3171

Abstract

Introduction: Marine-derived compounds, such as seaweed extracts, fucoidan and ulvans, and ectoin, have gained attention in recent years due to their unique structural and functional characteristics, which make them attractive ingredients for skincare products. In this study, we developed a serum spray based [...] Read more.

Introduction: Marine-derived compounds, such as seaweed extracts, fucoidan and ulvans, and ectoin, have gained attention in recent years due to their unique structural and functional characteristics, which make them attractive ingredients for skincare products. In this study, we developed a serum spray based on fucoidan, Ulva lactuca extract, and ectoin and evaluated its efficacy on facial skin. Materials and Methods: A split-face design dermatological evaluation of the serum spray was conducted on 33 subjects with visible signs of skin aging, with 29 subjects completing the study according to its protocol. The subjects had a mean age of 50 years and 16 had sensitive skin. The instrumental efficacy and subjective efficacy of the spray were measured on facial skin by evaluating the trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), skin pH, skin roughness/wrinkle reduction, and skin hydration at baseline, 20 min after its application and 28 days after its continuous use. Results: We found that the application of the serum spray did not significantly affect the TEWL. The hydration in the area treated with Moisturizer + Spray was 17% higher than that in the area treated with Moisturizer alone after 20 min of application (p < 0.001) and 5% higher after 28 days of use (p < 0.05). Twenty minutes after the application of the product, the average roughness in the area treated with Moisturizer + Spray decreased significantly, with an average of 7% compared to baseline (p < 0.001). With regard to the long-term antiwrinkle effect, 28 days after the continuous use of the product, the average roughness in the area treated with Moisturizer + Spray decreased significantly, with an average of 17% in relation to baseline (p < 0.001). The skin pH was significantly lowered by 6% after 28 days of use of the moisturizer + spray (p < 0.05). Conclusion: The results of this study suggest that the marine-derived compounds fucoidan, ulvans, and ectoin have hydrating and anti-wrinkle properties that make them effective ingredients for skincare products. The serum spray developed in this study was demonstrated to be safe and increase hydration, showing a reduction in wrinkles and maintenance of the skin barrier function after 28 days of its continuous use. Therefore, it could be a promising addition to skincare products for improving skin health. Full article

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13 pages, 1545 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Phenolic Composition and Wound Healing Potential Assessment of Moroccan Henna (Lawsonia inermis) Aqueous Extracts

by Soukaina El Massoudi, Abdellah Zinedine, João Miguel Rocha, Meryem Benidir, Ilham Najjari, Lahsen El Ghadraoui, Meryem Benjelloun and Faouzi Errachidi

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 92; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030092 - 15 Jun 2023

Cited by 6 | Viewed by 2017

Abstract

The present study aims at valorizing Moroccan Henna (Lawsonia inermis) by developing healing formulations for cosmetic and therapeutic uses. For such a goal, the plant was collected from three locations in southeastern Morocco (Alnif, Tafraoute Sidi Ali and Tazarine). Phytochemical analysis [...] Read more.

The present study aims at valorizing Moroccan Henna (Lawsonia inermis) by developing healing formulations for cosmetic and therapeutic uses. For such a goal, the plant was collected from three locations in southeastern Morocco (Alnif, Tafraoute Sidi Ali and Tazarine). Phytochemical analysis of Henna leaves was performed by determining phenolic compound contents, and flavonoids and tannins in it, through its aqueous extracts. Then, specific formulations were prepared using aqueous extracts of L. inermis to assess their in vivo wound healing potential in Swiss albino mice used as animal models. Results disclosed that phenolic compounds (13.48%), as well as flavonoid (9.25%) and tannin (2.57%) contents are higher in Henna leaf extracts from Alnif, while Tazarine Henna aqueous extract was found to be richer in saponins (0.32%). Exclusion chromatographic analysis on Sephadex G50 gel corroborates the obtained results and shows that Lawsone levels (Henna coloring agent) are higher in Henna collected from Alnif. Aqueous Henna leaf extracts, at a dose of 10% in petroleum jelly, have been assessed for their ability to heal induced burns in mice. Healing monitoring, carried-out with Henna extracts on mice batches and those of two control batches (mice batch treated with petroleum jelly alone and batch treated with petroleum jelly containing 1% (flamazine), showed a great reduction in burnt surface with an accentuated contraction percentage (CP) and complete re-epithelialization duration (CRD) at 21 days in the 3 studied Henna-based formulations. These findings suggest the interest of potential development of Henna-based formulations, as a source of phenolic compounds, for further dermatological, cosmetic and therapeutic applications. Full article

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18 pages, 2211 KiB

Open AccessReview

Acne-like Eruptions: Disease Features and Differential Diagnosis

by Ena Parać, Bruno Špiljak, Liborija Lugović-Mihić and Zrinka Bukvić Mokos

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 89; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030089 - 08 Jun 2023

Cited by 3 | Viewed by 5466

Abstract

The term “acne-like eruptions” encompasses a variety of skin conditions resembling acne vulgaris. While both acne-like dermatoses and true acne are frequently observed in clinical settings, differentiating between the two might be challenging. Similar to acne, the lesions of acne-like eruptions may exhibit [...] Read more.

The term “acne-like eruptions” encompasses a variety of skin conditions resembling acne vulgaris. While both acne-like dermatoses and true acne are frequently observed in clinical settings, differentiating between the two might be challenging. Similar to acne, the lesions of acne-like eruptions may exhibit papules, pustules, nodules, and cysts. However, contrary to acne, comedones are uncommon but may still be observed in certain types of acne-like eruptions. Moreover, acne-like eruptions can be differentiated from acne based on their sudden onset, the propensity to occur across all age groups, the monomorphic appearance of lesions, and the distributions extending outside the seborrheic regions. The development of acne-like eruptions cannot be attributed to a single underlying mechanism; nevertheless, various factors such as patient age, infections, occupation, habits, cosmetics, and medications may be involved. The observed lesions may not respond to standard acne therapy, necessitating that treatment strategies are tailored in accordance with the identified causative agents. The following review aims to outline distinct entities of acne-like eruptions and present features that set them apart from true acne. Acne-like eruptions in the adult population, infectious diseases resembling acne, and acne-like eruptions resulting from exposure to chemical and physical agents are addressed in this paper. An understanding of the clinical presentation, pathophysiology, and epidemiology of this group of dermatoses is pivotal for a precise diagnosis and provision of appropriate care. Full article

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24 pages, 4080 KiB

Open AccessReview

Cosmetic and Pharmaceutic Products with Selected Natural and Synthetic Substances for Melasma Treatment and Methods of Their Analysis

by Agata Wawrzyńczak

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 86; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030086 - 02 Jun 2023

Cited by 3 | Viewed by 4698

Abstract

Melasma is a fairly common condition that is the result of hyperpigmentation caused by increased melanin secretion. In the course of melasma, certain areas of the skin become darker than the rest of the epidermis. Although the pathogenesis remains incompletely clarified, several contributing [...] Read more.

Melasma is a fairly common condition that is the result of hyperpigmentation caused by increased melanin secretion. In the course of melasma, certain areas of the skin become darker than the rest of the epidermis. Although the pathogenesis remains incompletely clarified, several contributing factors have been identified, namely exposure to ultraviolet and visible light, family predisposition, pregnancy, and the use of exogenous hormones. Since current beauty standards associate healthy skin with its flawless and uniform color, people strive to eliminate any unaesthetic discoloration. Cosmetic and pharmaceutical products containing active substances with a whitening effect then become helpful. The most commonly used for this purpose are hydroquinone, arbutin, retinoids, organic acids (e.g., kojic, azelaic, and ellagic), and vitamins (B3, C, and E). However, the undesirable side effects they cause and the drive to replace synthetic chemicals with their natural counterparts have resulted in numerous reports on extracts of natural origin that exhibit skin-whitening effects. The purpose of this paper is to review the most recent scientific literature, which presents active substances of natural and synthetic origin with potential for the treatment of melasma. In addition, analytical techniques that can be used for qualitative and quantitative analysis of these substances present in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products will also be presented. Full article

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14 pages, 849 KiB

Open AccessReview

Vitiligo: A Review of Aetiology, Pathogenesis, Treatment, and Psychosocial Impact

by Khadeejeh AL-smadi, Mohammad Imran, Vania R. Leite-Silva and Yousuf Mohammed

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 84; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030084 - 27 May 2023

Cited by 6 | Viewed by 9236

Abstract

Vitiligo is an acquired, chronic condition characterised by depigmentation of the epidermis or by destruction/loss of melanin. Skin cells (melanocytes) are responsible for producing melanin, the substance that gives pigmentation to the skin. This review aims to provide a comprehensive overview of the [...] Read more.

Vitiligo is an acquired, chronic condition characterised by depigmentation of the epidermis or by destruction/loss of melanin. Skin cells (melanocytes) are responsible for producing melanin, the substance that gives pigmentation to the skin. This review aims to provide a comprehensive overview of the current state of knowledge about vitiligo. Although there is no specific ethnic group, gender, or skin type that is more prone to vitiligo than others, it can affect anyone. The most commonly prescribed treatments for vitiligo are systemic and topical phototherapy and immunomodulators such as corticosteroids, calcineurin inhibitors, and vitamin D analogues, in addition to cosmetics that can camouflage and improve the quality of life. Even though vitiligo is typically thought of as a cosmetic disorder, its effects on the physical and psychosocial health of sufferers cannot be ignored. Full article

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16 pages, 3177 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Optimization of the Composition of a Cosmetic Formulation Containing Tremella fuciformis Extract (Fungi)

by Bartosz Woźniak, Jagoda Chudzińska, Paulina Szczyglewska, Izabela Nowak and Agnieszka Feliczak-Guzik

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 82; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030082 - 18 May 2023

Viewed by 2895

Abstract

According to recent trends, people are more interested in cosmetic products based on natural raw materials, known to be safe for humans, including extracts obtained from selected plants, rich in active ingredients, such as proteins, vitamins, micro- and macro-elements, phospholipids, antioxidants, and natural [...] Read more.

According to recent trends, people are more interested in cosmetic products based on natural raw materials, known to be safe for humans, including extracts obtained from selected plants, rich in active ingredients, such as proteins, vitamins, micro- and macro-elements, phospholipids, antioxidants, and natural preservatives. An example of such raw materials is Tremella fuciformis extract, which is a natural alternative to hyaluronic acid. It retains water deep in the skin cells and stimulates the skin to fight free radicals, which are responsible for the premature aging of the skin. The aim of this study was to optimize the composition of cosmetic formulations based on natural substitutes for the synthetic substances, as well as their characterization, which included the determination of the physicochemical and skin care properties. Formulations containing Tremella fuciformis extract had the effect of reducing TEWL by 12.4%, compared to a formulation that did not contain this active ingredient, and allowed adequate hydration of the epidermis, which was confirmed by apparatus methods. Additionally, dermatological tests were also conducted for the formulations obtained, which showed that no erythema or swelling/irritation was observed in any of the test volunteers 48 and 72 h after the application of the product. Full article

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23 pages, 2547 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Hot Springs Cyanobacteria Endowed with Biological Activities for Cosmetic Applications: Evaluation of On-Site Collected Communities and Isolated Strains

by Natascia Biondi, Maria Raffaella Martina, Marisanna Centini, Cecilia Anselmi and Mario R. Tredici

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 81; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030081 - 17 May 2023

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 2814

Abstract

Microbial communities growing around hot springs (bioglea), of which cyanobacteria are the main components, contribute to beneficial properties of thermal muds and often enter cosmetic treatment products. Bioglea is obtainable via alternative approaches to harvesting from nature: direct cultivation of whole [...] Read more.

Microbial communities growing around hot springs (bioglea), of which cyanobacteria are the main components, contribute to beneficial properties of thermal muds and often enter cosmetic treatment products. Bioglea is obtainable via alternative approaches to harvesting from nature: direct cultivation of whole communities and isolation and cultivation of the isolated strains. Cultivation represents a step towards industrial production, guaranteeing higher availability, quality and safety. In this work, the biochemical composition of natural and cultivated bioglea collected in different hot springs and of cyanobacterial strains isolated thereof was analysed. Lipophilic and hydrophilic extracts were tested for antimicrobial and radical scavenging activities and toxicity against Artemia salina. Higher antimicrobial activity was found in lipophilic than hydrophilic bioglea extracts and the opposite in isolates’ extracts. Thermal water extracts also showed some activity. No toxicity was observed. Bioglea radical scavenging activity positively correlated with carotenoids (lipophilic extracts) and phycobiliproteins (hydrophilic extracts). No correlation was observed for isolated strains. Cultivation at the 10 L scale of Chroococcidiopsis BIOG3 evidenced bioactivity changes with the growth phase and life cycle stage. From activity comparison, communities showed higher potential over single strains cultivation; however, further investigations should elucidate isolates’ full potential also by combining them into synthetic communities to simplify production and standardisation. Full article

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18 pages, 2518 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Profiling and Evaluation of the Effect of Guarana-Loaded Liposomes on Different Skin Cell Lines: An In Vitro Study

by Isabel Roggia, Patrícia Gomes, Ana Julia Figueiró Dalcin, Aline Ferreira Ourique, Ivana Beatrice Mânica da Cruz, Euler E. Ribeiro, Montserrat Mitjans and Maria Pilar Vinardell

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 79; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030079 - 12 May 2023

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 2328

Abstract

The objective of this study was to analyze the in vitro stability and toxicity of liposomes containing guarana in skin cell lines. The liposomes were produced by the reverse phase evaporation method containing 1 mg/mL guarana. The stability of the liposomes was evaluated [...] Read more.

The objective of this study was to analyze the in vitro stability and toxicity of liposomes containing guarana in skin cell lines. The liposomes were produced by the reverse phase evaporation method containing 1 mg/mL guarana. The stability of the liposomes was evaluated by physical-chemical parameters for up to 90 days using three different storage conditions. The cytotoxicity of guarana (GL), liposomes (B-Lip), and guarana-loaded liposomes (G-Lip) was evaluated on spontaneously immortalized human keratinocyte cell lines (HaCaT), murine Swiss albino fibroblasts (3T3), and human fibroblasts (1BR.3.G). The evaluation was performed using cellular viability analysis. The techniques used were 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) and neutral red capturing (NRU), and the analyses were conducted after 24, 48, and 72 h of exposure of these cells to the different treatments. The G-Lip exhibited physical-chemical stability for 60 days when the samples were stored in a refrigerator. The GL, B-Lip, and G-Lip demonstrated low cytotoxicity in the three different cell cultures tested since a small reduction in cell viability was only observed at the highest concentrations. In addition, greater cell damage was observed for B-Lip; however, guarana protected the cells from this damage. Thus, G-Lip structures can be considered promising systems for topical applications. Full article

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17 pages, 351 KiB

Open AccessReview

Acne Vulgaris Topical Therapies: Application of Probiotics as a New Prevention Strategy

by Ieva Dapkevicius, Vânia Romualdo, Ana Camila Marques, Carla M. Lopes and Maria Helena Amaral

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 77; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030077 - 11 May 2023

Cited by 4 | Viewed by 7764

Abstract

The skin microbiome is an essential barrier for preventing the invasion of pathogens and regulating the immune responses. When this barrier is disrupted, several dermatoses, including acne vulgaris, may arise. Most people will experience acne starting at the onset of puberty and continuing [...] Read more.

The skin microbiome is an essential barrier for preventing the invasion of pathogens and regulating the immune responses. When this barrier is disrupted, several dermatoses, including acne vulgaris, may arise. Most people will experience acne starting at the onset of puberty and continuing into adolescence; a significant percentage of those individuals continue to suffer from it into adulthood. Although common, this dermatosis usually has an enormous impact on the self-esteem and quality of life of individuals who suffer from it. An increase in consumer literacy regarding skincare leads buyers to seek out innovative products containing ingredients with proven benefits for their concerns. Probiotics have proven to be an alternative to the use of antibiotics, often associated with undesirable effects, in the treatment and prevention of dermatological disorders such as acne. This review provides a comprehensive analysis of the pathophysiology, risk factors, symptoms, conventional treatment recommendations and main studies emphasizing innovative topical products for acne-prone skin based on probiotics. In addition, the potential advantages, and limitations/challenges associated with the implementation and manufacturing of these innovative skin products are also highlighted. Full article

14 pages, 3021 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Cosmeceutical Potential of the Yellow-Green Alga Trachydiscus minutus Aqueous Extract: Preparation of a Natural-Based Dermal Formula as a Proof of Concept

by Nikolaos D. Georgakis, Elisavet Ioannou, Marianna Chatzikonstantinou, Marián Merino, Evangelia G. Chronopoulou, José Luis Mullor, Panagiotis Madesis and Nikolaos E. Labrou

Cosmetics 2023, 10(3), 75; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030075 - 10 May 2023

Cited by 1 | Viewed by 2362

Abstract

In the present study, selected cosmeceutical properties of aqueous extracts from the microalgae strain Trachydiscus minutus were assessed and compared with those obtained using three widely used Chlorella strains (C. vulgaris, C. sorokiniana, and C. minutissima). Among all extracts, [...] Read more.

In the present study, selected cosmeceutical properties of aqueous extracts from the microalgae strain Trachydiscus minutus were assessed and compared with those obtained using three widely used Chlorella strains (C. vulgaris, C. sorokiniana, and C. minutissima). Among all extracts, T. minutus extracts showed the highest total antioxidant capacity (TAC) and inhibitory potency towards elastase, suggesting potential activity in controlling skin aging. Furthermore, the cytotoxicity, anti-inflammatory activity and UVA protection of T. minutus extract were evaluated employing normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) and human keratinocyte HaCaT cells. The results showed that the T. minutus extract was able to significantly inhibit the transcription of selected marker genes involved in inflammation [interleukin-6 (IL-6), interleukin-8 (IL-8) and tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNFα)]. In addition, treatment of NHDF and HaCaT cells with T. minutus extract ameliorate the UVA-induced cell damage by decreasing the accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Extracts from T. minutus were formulated into a skin care cream and an aqueous gel. Both formulas exhibited excellent compatibility and stability. Comprehensively, all these results suggest that T. minutus extract displays promising cosmeceutical properties by providing antioxidant, anti-aging, and anti-inflammatory activities, and therefore has potential for cosmeceutical use. Full article

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11 pages, 727 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Compositions of Abrasive Cosmetics from Polish Manufacturers

by Martyna Guzik, Olga Czerwińska-Ledwig and Anna Piotrowska

Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 67; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020067 - 20 Apr 2023

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 2887

Abstract

Microplastics have been widely used in cosmetics and, among other things, very often as an abrasive component in peelings. This type of additive is not the main cause of environmental microplastic contamination, but it can pose a significant threat to the environment and [...] Read more.

Microplastics have been widely used in cosmetics and, among other things, very often as an abrasive component in peelings. This type of additive is not the main cause of environmental microplastic contamination, but it can pose a significant threat to the environment and to people. Manufacturers are increasingly taking the decision to withdraw microplastics from cosmetics, replacing them with alternatives, and this is also happening because of legal requirements. The European Chemicals Agency, in 2019, presented a proposal to limit the use of polymer plastics in cosmetic products due to the fact that they may be a potential source of primary microplastics. The final form of the EU regulation is planned for the years 2023–2024. The aim of this study was to analyze the compositions of widely available rinse-off abrasive cosmetics from Polish manufacturers and to identify the most common natural raw materials replacing microplastics. Fifty randomly selected rinse-off products were analyzed for abrasive ingredients in INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) formulations. Among the tested cosmetics, 13 contained microplastics and 49 contained natural abrasive particles, and polyethylene did not appear in any product. The most common vegetable raw material substitute for microplastics was sugar, and sodium chloride was the most common mineral substitute. Compared to previous years, there has been an improvement in the Polish cosmetics market, where manufacturers are increasingly opting for plant-based substitutes for microplastics, but relevant legal regulation is still needed. Full article

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21 pages, 2421 KiB

Open AccessReview

In Vitro Models for Anti-Aging Efficacy Assessment: A Critical Update in Dermocosmetic Research

by Ana M. Cruz, Margarida C. Gonçalves, Matilde S. Marques, Francisco Veiga, Ana Cláudia Paiva-Santos and Patrícia C. Pires

Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 66; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020066 - 20 Apr 2023

Cited by 7 | Viewed by 9844

Abstract

The skin is the human body’s largest organ and serves as a crucial boundary between the body and the external environment. As a natural process, skin aging cannot be avoided, and it causes changes in the skin’s strength, structure, elasticity, and integrity. Many [...] Read more.

The skin is the human body’s largest organ and serves as a crucial boundary between the body and the external environment. As a natural process, skin aging cannot be avoided, and it causes changes in the skin’s strength, structure, elasticity, and integrity. Many approaches have been developed over the years to study the skin, including in vivo and in vitro methods. Nevertheless, animal assays have ethical issues and a lack of reproducibility. Hence, in vitro skin models have been increasingly developed and used. For the assessment of the potential of the anti-aging activity of compounds of different origins, the most commonly used in vitro assays are the ones evaluating antioxidant, anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, anti-hyaluronidase, anti-tyrosinase, anti-inflammatory, antiglycation, or moisturizing activity, and the induction of skin cell proliferation/anti-senescence effects or the inhibition of matrix metalloproteinase production. The purpose of this review is to summarize the most commonly used in vitro models for the evaluation of skin aging and cometic products’ anti-aging efficacy, providing a useful guide for researchers in the field. Overall, these assays provide important data on the safety and efficacy of anti-aging compounds, and a foundation for research on and the eventual introduction of formulations into the cosmetics market. Full article

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14 pages, 3204 KiB

Open AccessReview

Therapeutic Values of Exosomes in Cosmetics, Skin Care, Tissue Regeneration, and Dermatological Diseases

by Abhimanyu Thakur, Disheet Shah, Deepika Rai, Diana Carolina Parra, Spoorthy Pathikonda, Svetlana Kurilova and Alma Cili

Cosmetics 2023, 10(2), 65; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10020065 - 20 Apr 2023

Cited by 7 | Viewed by 22849

Abstract

Exosomes are small extracellular nanovesicles that are released by cells, and their potential has been explored for use in cosmetics, skin care, tissue regeneration, and dermatological diseases. The therapeutic value of exosomes lies in their ability to modulate the microenvironment of cells, regulate [...] Read more.

Exosomes are small extracellular nanovesicles that are released by cells, and their potential has been explored for use in cosmetics, skin care, tissue regeneration, and dermatological diseases. The therapeutic value of exosomes lies in their ability to modulate the microenvironment of cells, regulate gene expression, and induce cell differentiation, which can have a positive impact on skin health. In terms of cosmetics, exosomes have been used to reduce wrinkles, improve skin texture and hydration, and enhance skin elasticity, as well as to reduce inflammation and damage caused by UV radiation. Furthermore, exosomes have been used to promote tissue regeneration in skin wounds and to treat dermatological diseases such as systemic lupus erythematosus, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, systemic sclerosis, pigment regulation, vitiligo, and hair growth. In this review, the therapeutic value of exosomes in the field of cosmetics, skin care, tissue regeneration, and dermatological diseases, has been elaborated. The existing literature demonstrated that with further research, exosomes may become a viable therapeutic option for many skin conditions. Full article

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