Cosmetics

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25 pages, 9543 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Systematic Evaluation and Identification of Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-Aging Ginseng Peptides for Skincare Applications

by Ze Xia, Wei Liu, Fanmo Zeng, Sining Kang, Junxiang Li, Wenfei Xu, Pingxiang Tang, Xinyi Zheng, Dandan Li, Xuebin Yang, Qing Sheng and Xuhui Li

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 85; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020085 - 21 Apr 2025

Abstract

This study explores the potential of ginseng-derived peptides (GPs) as multifunctional bioactive agents for skincare. Unlike previous research into ginseng saponins and polysaccharides, we identified that ginseng extracts containing water-soluble small molecules and polypeptides exhibit potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties. In vitro [...] Read more.

This study explores the potential of ginseng-derived peptides (GPs) as multifunctional bioactive agents for skincare. Unlike previous research into ginseng saponins and polysaccharides, we identified that ginseng extracts containing water-soluble small molecules and polypeptides exhibit potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties. In vitro assays revealed that ginseng peptide extract (GPE) reduced reactive oxygen species (ROS) and inflammatory cytokines (IL-6, TNF-α, IL-1β) in RAW264.7 macrophages while enhancing collagen synthesis in human skin fibroblasts (HSFs). Validation using 3D epidermal and dermal models further confirmed GPE’s ability to mitigate UV-induced damage, restore skin barrier proteins (filaggrin, loricrin), and increase collagen content. In addition, we screened 19 candidate peptides from ginseng extract using machine learning and prioritized their interaction with skin aging and inflammation-related targets. Three peptides (QEGIYPNNDLYRPK, VDCPTDDATDDYRLK, and ADEVVHHPLDKSSEVE) demonstrated significant collagen-promoting, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory effects in cellular models. These findings highlight the efficacy of computational approaches in identifying natural bioactive ingredients, positioning ginseng peptides as promising candidates for innovative cosmeceutical formulations targeting inflammaging and skin rejuvenation. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)

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17 pages, 6585 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Investigation of the Anti-Aging Effects of Composite Nanocarriers Based on Autophagy Regulation and Oxidative Stress Inhibition

by Min Liu, Lei Ye, Lingling Jiang, Xi Wang, Cui Sun, Jiuyan Zheng and Wei Liu

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 83; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020083 - 17 Apr 2025

Viewed by 153

Abstract

Focusing on the anti-aging mechanism and efficient utilization of anti-aging active ingredients in the skin is an excellent strategy to mitigate aging. In this study, ribose/collagen/decarboxylated carnitine hydrochloride/palmitoyl tripeptide-1 composite nanocarriers (RCDP NCs) were synthesized using transdermal drug delivery nanotechnology. The drug delivery [...] Read more.

Focusing on the anti-aging mechanism and efficient utilization of anti-aging active ingredients in the skin is an excellent strategy to mitigate aging. In this study, ribose/collagen/decarboxylated carnitine hydrochloride/palmitoyl tripeptide-1 composite nanocarriers (RCDP NCs) were synthesized using transdermal drug delivery nanotechnology. The drug delivery of composite nanocarriers and the anti-aging mechanism of RCDP NCs were studied through transdermal behavior, cell uptake, cell proliferation, antioxidant enzyme activity, lipid oxidation product expression, β—galactosidase content, autophagy vesicle number, autophagy-related protein expression, and other indicators. The results showed that the composite nanocarriers on the skin could reach a dermal depth of 460.0 μm (4 h). The uptake of RCDP NCs by keratinocytes and fibroblasts increased by 47.37% and 89.11% (4 h), respectively. RCDP NCs promoted cell proliferation, enhanced the activities of the main antioxidant enzymes, and reduced the production of the lipid oxidation product malondialdehyde (MDA). Sequestosome-1 protein (p62) decreased, whereas both the ratio of microtubule-associated protein light chain 3 II/microtubule-associated protein light chain 3 I (LC3II/LC3I) and the number of autophagosomes increased, indicating that RCDP NCs promoted autophagy. The drug delivery nanotechnology in this study achieved better transdermal application of active ingredients, which could mitigate skin aging faster and more effectively. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)

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17 pages, 1258 KiB

Open AccessArticle

The Oral Intake of Specific Bovine-Derived Bioactive Collagen Peptides Has a Stimulatory Effect on Dermal Matrix Synthesis and Improves Various Clinical Skin Parameters

by Ehrhardt Proksch, Denise Zdzieblik and Steffen Oesser

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 79; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020079 - 14 Apr 2025

Viewed by 381

Abstract

Collagen products are widely marketed for skin improvement. This study evaluated the efficacy of VERISOL B in relation to key skin aging parameters. In a double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, 66 women (aged 35–55) were randomized to receive either 2.5 g of bovine-derived bioactive collagen [...] Read more.

Collagen products are widely marketed for skin improvement. This study evaluated the efficacy of VERISOL B in relation to key skin aging parameters. In a double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, 66 women (aged 35–55) were randomized to receive either 2.5 g of bovine-derived bioactive collagen peptides (SCPs) (n = 33) or a placebo (n = 33) daily for 8 weeks. Their eye wrinkle volume, skin elasticity, and hydration were objectively measured at baseline (X₀), 4 weeks (X₄), and 8 weeks (X₈). Additionally, the SCPs’ impact on type I collagen, elastin, and proteoglycan biosynthesis was assessed in human dermal fibroblasts. The SCP supplementation significantly (p < 0.05) reduced their eye wrinkle volume and improved their skin elasticity and hydration within 4 weeks. After 8 weeks of treatment, the positive effects were even more pronounced for all of the clinical parameters measured (p < 0.05). The fibroblast experiments confirmed the SCPs’ stimulatory impact on dermal metabolism (p < 0.05). In conclusion, oral SCP supplementation effectively reduced wrinkles and enhanced skin elasticity and hydration, likely by promoting extracellular matrix biosynthesis. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)

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12 pages, 4292 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Photoprotective Effect and Potential Mechanisms of Gardeniae Fructus Extract in UVB-Irradiated HaCaT Cells

by Kaile Zong, Xiang Li, Fangni Zhou, Junzi Dong, Qing Huang and Jianxin Wu

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 72; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020072 - 9 Apr 2025

Viewed by 253

Abstract

Gardeniae Fructus (GF), the desiccative mature fruitage of Gardenia jasminoides J. Ellis (G. jasminoides), is a traditional herbal medicine in China with potential value against skin photodamage. However, the phytochemical basis and mechanisms underlying GF’s anti-photodamage effects remain unclear. In this [...] Read more.

Gardeniae Fructus (GF), the desiccative mature fruitage of Gardenia jasminoides J. Ellis (G. jasminoides), is a traditional herbal medicine in China with potential value against skin photodamage. However, the phytochemical basis and mechanisms underlying GF’s anti-photodamage effects remain unclear. In this study, the chemical components in GF extract (GFE) were analyzed using ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with tandem mass spectrometry (UPLC-MS/MS), and iridoids were identified as the main components. The antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and barrier-repair effects of GFE in UVB-induced photodamage were assessed through in vitro experiments. Additionally, the potential mechanisms of GFE against skin photodamage were predicted using proteomics and network pharmacology. The results showed that GFE significantly increased the levels of total superoxide dismutase (T-SOD), catalase (CAT), and glutathione peroxidase (GSH-Px) induced by UVB, while decreasing reactive oxygen species (ROS) and malondialdehyde (MDA) contents. GFE also inhibited the secretion of interleukin-6 (IL-6) and interleukin-1β (IL-1β). Additionally, GFE upregulated the expression of filaggrin (FLG), loricrin (LOR), and involucrin (IVL) in 3D epidermal skin models. Proteomic analysis and network pharmacology indicated that the iridoid components identified in GFE ameliorated UVB-induced damage probably by regulating cell cycle-related proteins and signaling pathways, though this requires further experimental confirmation. Overall, the results provide essential evidence to support the development of GFE as a skincare active ingredient. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)

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19 pages, 3796 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Exploring Skin Longevity Pathways: Rosa hybrid Extract-Mediated AMP-Activated Protein Kinase Activation, Antioxidant, and Autophagic Mechanisms in Human Keratinocytes

by Olivier Gouin, Andrea Cavagnino, Gayané Azadiguian, Sibylle Jäger, Gilles Comte, Mohammed Bendahmane, Lionel Breton, Martin A. Baraibar and Annie F. Black

Cosmetics 2025, 12(2), 57; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12020057 - 25 Mar 2025

Viewed by 297

Abstract

The skin is continuously exposed to environmental changes, rendering it vulnerable to damage from external stressors that contribute to premature skin aging. This study aims to explore skin longevity pathways stimulated by a rose extract (RE) derived from petals. Human keratinocytes treated with [...] Read more.

The skin is continuously exposed to environmental changes, rendering it vulnerable to damage from external stressors that contribute to premature skin aging. This study aims to explore skin longevity pathways stimulated by a rose extract (RE) derived from petals. Human keratinocytes treated with RE exhibited a significant increase in NRF2 (NF-E2-related factor 2; ≈2–4% of induction) and LAMP2A (Lysosome-Associated Membrane Protein 2A; ≈6–12% of induction) levels. The presence of RE significantly mitigated the increase in carbonylation levels (≈34–37% of protection) and the number of labeled P16^INK4A cells (≈60–72% of protection), associated with proliferation arrest, both induced by exposure to BAP (Benzo[a]pyrene) coupled with UV-A (Ultraviolet A) irradiation. The beneficial effects mediated by RE were inhibited by Compound C, a specific AMPK inhibitor (AMP-activated protein kinase). The involvement of the AMPK pathway in mediating the beneficial effects of RE has been confirmed by assessing its activation through the evaluation of its phosphorylation state which was significantly elevated in the presence of RE compared to the stress condition. In conclusion, the activation of the AMPK pathway enhances antioxidant defenses and promotes autophagy. This dual action, mediated by RE, helps protect skin cells from oxidative damage and senescence while maintaining proteostasis, skin integrity, and cellular proliferation under pollution-induced stress (BAP + UV-A). These findings highlight the potential in mitigating age-related skin changes through the modulation of longevity pathways. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)

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11 pages, 3947 KiB

Open AccessArticle

In Vivo Application of the Effects of Red-to-Near-Infrared Light Spectroscopy on Skin-Brightening and Anti-Aging Properties via LED Facial Masks

by Sunghoon Lee, Mohammad M. Afandi, Jungah Lee and Jongsu Kim

Cosmetics 2025, 12(1), 4; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics12010004 - 1 Jan 2025

Viewed by 1313

Abstract

Most people want effective anti-aging and skin-brightening products. Although red-to-near-infrared (R/NIR) spectroscopy has recently been used in cosmetology, its practical use with high efficacy for anti-aging and skin brightening remains challenging. Herein, we aimed to determine the efficacy and improvement effects of a [...] Read more.

Most people want effective anti-aging and skin-brightening products. Although red-to-near-infrared (R/NIR) spectroscopy has recently been used in cosmetology, its practical use with high efficacy for anti-aging and skin brightening remains challenging. Herein, we aimed to determine the efficacy and improvement effects of a newly developed anti-aging and skin-brightening facial mask. A face study was conducted to assess efficacy and improvement effectiveness, with 21 female volunteers with oily, dry, and normal skin conditions applying the product under study (CF Magic Mask) to their face for 4-week periods. The dermatologist investigator evaluated the skin brightness, skin elasticity, eye wrinkles, dead skin cells on the scalp, dermal density, face lifting, scalp sebum, and global appearance. The mean skin-brightening and anti-aging parameters were improved (p < 0.05) after the use of the newly developed CF Magic Masks for 4-week periods. Significantly, the scalp sebum and dead skin cells on the scalp showed the greatest improvement, being reduced by about 26.71% and 21.96%, respectively. The global assessment by the volunteers showed moderate efficacy and preference, with no adverse effects or skin irritation indicated after the use of the test product. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)

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21 pages, 2267 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Multifunctional, Novel Formulation for Repairing Photoaged and Sun-Damaged Skin: Insights from In Vitro, Ex Vivo, and In Vivo Studies

by María Moneo-Sánchez, Nagore de Pablo, Leire Arana-Pascual, Itziar Beitia, Sandra Benito-Cid and Raúl Pérez-González

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 224; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060224 - 17 Dec 2024

Viewed by 1531

Abstract

Prolonged sun exposure disrupts the skin’s structural, mechanical, and functional properties, accelerating aging and contributing to skin disorders. To counteract these effects, we developed a formulation containing potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and reparative ingredients to protect and repair sun-damaged skin. The efficacy of [...] Read more.

Prolonged sun exposure disrupts the skin’s structural, mechanical, and functional properties, accelerating aging and contributing to skin disorders. To counteract these effects, we developed a formulation containing potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and reparative ingredients to protect and repair sun-damaged skin. The efficacy of the formulation was evaluated through in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo studies. Results demonstrated that the formulation reduced oxidative stress and suppressed the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines interleukin-6 (IL-6) and interleukin-8 (IL-8), as well as lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) secretion, in a photodamaged skin model, nearly reaching levels observed in undamaged skin. It also restored collagen levels, improving structural integrity. In vivo, no adverse reactions were observed when used for 28 or 56 days. The formulation improved skin hydration by up to 46%, reduced transepidermal water loss by 20%, increased luminosity by 70%, and reduced hyperpigmented spots by 14%. It also enhanced skin firmness and elasticity by 30% and reduced wrinkle volume and density by up to 53% and 19%, respectively. These findings demonstrate that the formulation’s active ingredients effectively target the pathways altered by UV exposure, offering considerable potential for preventing and reversing sun-induced skin damage while improving both the appearance and functionality of the skin. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)

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19 pages, 1609 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Formulation of Biological Sunscreen from Calendula arvensis Capitula Extracts: Antioxidant, Anti-Aging, Surface Tension, and UVB Protection Properties Assessed

by Najlae El-Otmani, Ikrame Zeouk and Ahmed Zahidi

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 216; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060216 - 9 Dec 2024

Viewed by 2527

Abstract

Skin protection against ultraviolet (UV) radiation has long been crucial due to its role in photoaging, sunburn, and wrinkles. This study focuses on developing a bio-based sunscreen from Calendula arvensis capitula extract. Various extraction methods (maceration, sonication, and infusion) and solvents (EtOH, EtOH-H [...] Read more.

Skin protection against ultraviolet (UV) radiation has long been crucial due to its role in photoaging, sunburn, and wrinkles. This study focuses on developing a bio-based sunscreen from Calendula arvensis capitula extract. Various extraction methods (maceration, sonication, and infusion) and solvents (EtOH, EtOH-H₂O, and H₂O) were explored in order to identify the most effective extract for use in a sunscreen formulation. Each extract was analyzed for its phenolic content, as well as antioxidant activities (assessed through DPPH, CAT, and FRAP assays). Enzyme inhibition assays for tyrosinase, elastase, and collagenase highlighted the low IC₅₀ values of the hydroethanolic extract. Furthermore, the in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) against UVB radiation was measured using ultraviolet spectrophotometry. A phytochemical analysis showed phenolic levels between 8 and 27 mg GAE/g, flavonoid concentrations of 7–13 mg QE/g, and tannin levels of 1.15–1.68 mg/mL, alongside moderate antioxidant activity. The ethanol maceration extract reduced the interfacial tension to 2.15 mN/m in 600 s, outperforming the conventional emulsifier polysorbate 20. The sonicated hydroethanolic extract demonstrated remarkable SPF efficacy (SPF = 193.65 ± 0.02), far exceeding that of the standard zinc oxide (SPF = 11.88 ± 0.03). The proposed formulations meet the COSMOS standards, suggesting their potential for certification as biological products. Further clinical and in vivo studies are necessary to confirm their safety and commercial viability. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)

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11 pages, 2136 KiB

Open AccessArticle

1,2-Dihydroxy-9H-Xanthen-9-One, a Multifunctional Nature-Inspired Active Ingredient

by Ana Jesus, Sara F. Vieira, Gonçalo Brites, Mylène Carrascal, Helena Ferreira, Nuno M. Neves, Honorina Cidade, Madalena Pinto, Emília Sousa, Isabel F. Almeida and Maria T. Cruz

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 215; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060215 - 8 Dec 2024

Viewed by 1314

Abstract

Incorporating antioxidants into cosmetics is the mainstay for developing new products to mitigate skin aging. However, identifying novel multifunctional antioxidant ingredients with additional relevant properties that block the skin hallmarks of aging is a very striking strategy. Many natural compounds, including xanthones, have [...] Read more.

Incorporating antioxidants into cosmetics is the mainstay for developing new products to mitigate skin aging. However, identifying novel multifunctional antioxidant ingredients with additional relevant properties that block the skin hallmarks of aging is a very striking strategy. Many natural compounds, including xanthones, have demonstrated biologically notable properties. In particular, 1,2-dihydroxy-9H-xanthen-9-one (1,2-DHX) has inhibitory activity against skin enzymes, and metal-chelating and radical-scavenging activities. Therefore, 1,2-DHX is an attractive molecule for cosmetic purposes. With this goal in mind, the anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-allergic potentials of 1,2-DHX were investigated. 1,2-DHX demonstrated anti-inflammatory properties by inhibiting the synthesis of specific pro-inflammatory mediators, including interleukin-6 (IL-6) and prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), in human macrophages. This xanthone did not elicit sensitization reactions and did inhibit allergic reactions triggered by a strong skin allergen, suggesting its potential as an anti-allergic compound. 1,2-DHX also revealed mitochondrial antioxidant activity by mitigating rotenone-induced oxidative stress in macrophages by up to 40%. Overall, 1,2-DHX displayed a safety profile and noteworthy biological activities, highlighting its multifunctional profile as an active cosmetic ingredient with anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-allergic properties. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)

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22 pages, 11784 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Willaertia Lysate: A Hydrobiome-Biosourced Ingredient with Multi-Site Antioxidative and Antiaging Properties

by Morgan Dos Santos, Julie Rorteau, Kilian Laho, Hanan Osman-Ponchet, Manon Barthe, Benjamin Quelard, Antoine Carlino, Adeline Saha and Sandrine Troussieux

Cosmetics 2024, 11(6), 200; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060200 - 21 Nov 2024

Viewed by 1666

Abstract

Aging is synonymous with the skin becoming increasingly thin and fragile, which is associated with a decrease in epidermal cell layers. Beyond this intrinsic aging process, the skin is continually exposed to environmental stressors such as UV radiation that accelerate aging. To fight [...] Read more.

Aging is synonymous with the skin becoming increasingly thin and fragile, which is associated with a decrease in epidermal cell layers. Beyond this intrinsic aging process, the skin is continually exposed to environmental stressors such as UV radiation that accelerate aging. To fight the signs of aging, a comprehensive program was implemented in this study to evaluate the efficacy of an innovative ingredient, Willaertia lysate, through a multi-scale approach encompassing cellular and advanced 3D skin models. The results show that Willaertia lysate, initially sourced from French Alps thermal spring waters, is able to (i) promote cell migration; (ii) improve the quality and abundance of the extracellular matrix in aged skins and in young skins exposed to UV radiation to a similar level to that in unexposed young skins; (iii) decrease tyrosinase activity and melanin content; and (iv) reduce oxidative stress after UV exposure by decreasing exposome markers such as protein carbonylation and lipid peroxidation expression. This complete set of coherent results demonstrates the global protective efficacy of Willaertia lysate against the effects of photoaging. This study is the first to report the use of a protozoan lysate as a natural and biosourced postbiotic active ingredient in the fields of cosmetics and dermocosmetics. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)

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19 pages, 2289 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Anti-Aging Effects of Low-Molecular-Weight Collagen Peptide Supplementation on Facial Wrinkles and Skin Hydration: Outcomes from a Six-Week Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Trial

by Juan Antonio Carrillo-Norte, Baldomero García-Mir, Lluis Quintana, Bruno Buracchio and Rafael Guerrero-Bonmatty

Cosmetics 2024, 11(4), 137; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040137 - 12 Aug 2024

Viewed by 12777

Abstract

In recent decades, there has been a rising demand for anti-aging interventions aimed at postponing or potentially reversing indicators of skin aging. The use of collagen-based nutraceutical supplements has gained popularity as they have shown promise in enhancing skin health and reducing signs [...] Read more.

In recent decades, there has been a rising demand for anti-aging interventions aimed at postponing or potentially reversing indicators of skin aging. The use of collagen-based nutraceutical supplements has gained popularity as they have shown promise in enhancing skin health and reducing signs of aging. The aim of this randomized, placebo-controlled, blinded study was to investigate the effects of 2.5 g COLLinstant^® LMW, a novel cosmeceutical containing low-molecular-weight (≤1000 Da) collagen peptides, on skin aging and health. The trial was conducted with 80 healthy women aged 30 years and older. They received a daily oral dose of either the food supplement (n = 40) or placebo (n = 40) for six weeks. Skin assessment was performed based on validated objective methods, such as Visioface 1000D (skin wrinkling), cutometry (elasticity and fatigue), and corneometry (skin hydration) at baseline (T0) and at week 6 (T6). After 6 weeks, participants that received collagen had significant improvements in biometric skin wrinkle parameters from baseline, with a reduction in volume by 46%, in area by 44%, and in depth by 9%, along with a greater increase in skin moisturization (by 34%) than those in the placebo group (p < 0.001). The food supplement did not significantly modify skin firmness or fatigue and had only slight beneficial effects on skin elasticity. The investigational product was well tolerated. The observed effects aligned closely with the subjective assessments reported by study participants. The study provides substantiated evidence supporting the efficacy of low-molecular-weight collagen peptides in restoring altered skin biometric parameters, as objectively assessed. Thus, regular supplementation with this nutraceutical may contribute to achieving smoother and more radiant skin. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Anti-Aging Strategies)

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