Coastal Sediments: Processes, Transport, Modeling and Hydrodynamics

A special issue of Water (ISSN 2073-4441). This special issue belongs to the section "Oceans and Coastal Zones".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (29 February 2024) | Viewed by 2146

Special Issue Editors


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Guest Editor
Korean Institute of Ocean Science and Technology, Busan, Republic of Korea
Interests: coastal sediment transport; beach process; small-scale sediment dynamics; turbulence and turbulent boundary layer flows; coastal hydrodynamics; sediment transport modeling; turbulence modeling
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E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Korean Institute of Ocean Science and Technology, Busan, Republic of Korea
Interests: wave modeling; wave measurements; wave energy; wave propagation modeling; harbor design; coastal engineering; numerical modeling; coastal processes
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Coastal areas are important given that most of the world population lives within such areas, and the protection and conservation of coastal zones are crucial for various communities. In nature, the shape of a beach is not fixed, but it dynamically changes in response to environmental conditions such as waves and currents that produce sediment transport in the cross- and/or longshore directions. Therefore, it is important to precisely understand/predict such processes to prevent disastrous results. It is, however, still challenging because they are initiated by small-scale motions in the near-bed boundary layers, but the results occur in wide areas over long-term periods, requiring advanced techniques and knowledge to monitor and model the processes in both short-term and long-term scales. In this Special Issue, therefore, we invite research papers devoted to enhancing the quality of observational and numerical methods to understand/predict both long-term scale coastal processes and small-scale sediment transport/dynamics. We also invite papers on coastal hydrodynamics such as nearshore currents, wind waves, and infragravity waves that can have significant impacts on sediment motions and coastal structures.

Dr. Yeon S. Chang
Dr. Weon-Mu Jeong
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

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Keywords

  • coastal sediment transport
  • coastal processes
  • shoreline evolution
  • surf zone hydrodynamics
  • surface gravity waves and infragravity waves

Published Papers (3 papers)

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Research

30 pages, 12227 KiB  
Article
Spatio-Temporal Morphodynamics of a Nourished Sandy Shore Based on LiDAR Measurements
by Marek Harenda, Aleksandra Dudkowska and Piotr Szmytkiewicz
Water 2024, 16(7), 1055; https://doi.org/10.3390/w16071055 - 06 Apr 2024
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Abstract
Coastal erosion is a pervasive global phenomenon, exemplified by the Hel Peninsula situated in the Gulf of Gdańsk, the southern Baltic Sea. The geological constitution of the Hel Peninsula, characterized by sandy and loosely consolidated material, predisposes its coastal zones to continual morphological [...] Read more.
Coastal erosion is a pervasive global phenomenon, exemplified by the Hel Peninsula situated in the Gulf of Gdańsk, the southern Baltic Sea. The geological constitution of the Hel Peninsula, characterized by sandy and loosely consolidated material, predisposes its coastal zones to continual morphological changes. The peninsula’s limited width and elevation exacerbate shoreline erosion, particularly during periods of heightened storm activity. This study scrutinizes the effectiveness of coastal nourishment interventions, with a specific focus on segments influenced by the Władysławowo port and the Kuźnica vicinity, over several years. This specific section of the coast serves as a significant case study due to its role as a transit zone for sand transport along the whole peninsula. Protective measures, including shore nourishments and coastal groynes, aim to mitigate erosion impacts. Utilizing Airborne Laser Scanning (ALS) data spanning from 2008 to 2022, erosion dynamics were analyzed. The analysis reveals significant erosion patterns coinciding with the frequency and volume of nourishment material deposition, particularly evident in heavily nourished areas proximate to Władysławowo and Kuźnica. Despite persistent monitoring endeavors, persistent erosive trends pose imminent threats to Kuźnica’s infrastructure, necessitating further research into the efficacy of implemented coastal protection measures. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Coastal Sediments: Processes, Transport, Modeling and Hydrodynamics)
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23 pages, 8202 KiB  
Article
Prediction of Bedform Dimensions on Alluvial Bed in Unidirectional Flow
by Rui Wang and Guoliang Yu
Water 2024, 16(6), 893; https://doi.org/10.3390/w16060893 - 20 Mar 2024
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Abstract
In this study, the bedform dimensions of an alluvial bed in a unidirectional flow were experimentally investigated. A series of flume experiments was conducted; 700 sets of flume and field data were used in developing formulae for predicting the bedform dimensions on alluvial [...] Read more.
In this study, the bedform dimensions of an alluvial bed in a unidirectional flow were experimentally investigated. A series of flume experiments was conducted; 700 sets of flume and field data were used in developing formulae for predicting the bedform dimensions on alluvial beds in unidirectional flow. Bedform dimensions include the length and height of bedforms generated by the lower and upper flow regimes; the resistance coefficient for the flow in different flow regimes is introduced into the proposed formulae. The momentum boundary-layer thickness was introduced as an independent variable instead of the flow depth. Based on a large amount of flume and field data, the coefficients of each parameter were determined; four typical formulae were used to compare the accuracy of the proposed formulae. The experimental results show that the momentum boundary-layer thickness, hydraulic radius, and resistance coefficient for the flow in different regimes correlate well with the bedform dimensions. The calculation results show that the dimensionless particle size should not be ignored in the calculation of bedform dimensions. The bedform dimensions have an obvious trend of rapid increase with an increase in the ratio of flow depth to sand size (H/d). The bedform dimensions obtained using the van Rijn method and the Engelund and Hansen method did not represent the variation trend of the bedform length in the upper flow regime with an increase in H/d when H/d was greater than 103. The calculations using the proposed formulae are more accurate and reasonable than those in previous studies predicting the bedform height and length on an alluvial bed in a unidirectional flow. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Coastal Sediments: Processes, Transport, Modeling and Hydrodynamics)
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22 pages, 10902 KiB  
Article
Swash-Zone Formula Evaluation of Morphological Variation in Haeundae Beach, Korea
by Jong Dae Do, Sang Kwon Hyun, Jae-Youll Jin, Weon-Mu Jeong, Byunggil Lee and Yeon S. Chang
Water 2024, 16(6), 836; https://doi.org/10.3390/w16060836 - 14 Mar 2024
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Abstract
In this study, a swash-zone model, using Larson and Wamsley formula (LW07), was combined into the Telemac-2D model system to examine the performance of modeling swash-zone processes through comparisons with field observation data. The experimental site was the Haeundae Beach in South Korea [...] Read more.
In this study, a swash-zone model, using Larson and Wamsley formula (LW07), was combined into the Telemac-2D model system to examine the performance of modeling swash-zone processes through comparisons with field observation data. The experimental site was the Haeundae Beach in South Korea where Typhoon Phanfone occurred in October 2014, and bathymetric surveys were performed before and after the typhoon. Hydrodynamic data were also measured to validate the modeled data. The performance of LW07 was tested by running the model in two modes, with and without LW07. First, the model was run to simulate the shoreline response to an imaginary coastal breakwater. The result showed a clear discrepancy between the two modes as the sediments were considerably cumulated behind the breakwater in the case with the swash-zone formula (LW07) in the wide range along the shoreline behind the breakwater, indicating that the sediments more actively and rapidly responded to the shadowing by the breakwater with LW07. The model was also run for a realistic case from August to October 2014, which included the typhoon’s period during 2–6 October. The results showed that the morphological changes at both ends of the beach in the swash zone were simulated with higher accuracy with LW07, supporting the effectiveness of LW07 in simulating the short-term morphological changes induced by the typhoon attack. In particular, the successful simulation of the sand accumulation at the end sides of the beach’s swash zone indicates that LW07 was effective in estimating not only the cross-shore transport but also longshore transport, which was likely due to the characteristics of LW07 that calculated sand transport in both directions. The enhanced modeling performance with LW07 was likely due to the adjustment of the sediment transport rate to the instantaneous changes in the local beach slope, which could successfully control the erosion/accretion process in the swash zone more realistically. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Coastal Sediments: Processes, Transport, Modeling and Hydrodynamics)
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