Beach Nourishment Protection against Storms for Contrasting Backshore Typologies
Abstract
:1. Introduction
2. Study Site
3. Materials and Methods
3.1. Pre- and Post-Nourishment Topo-Bathymetric Conditions
3.2. Hydrodynamic Storm Conditions
3.3. Numerical Modelling
4. Results
4.1. Spatial Distribution of the Nourishment
4.2. Wave Climate and Sea Level
4.3. Morphodynamic Model Validation
4.4. Storm Impact in the Pre- and Post-Nourished Conditions
5. Discussion
- (i)
- Shoreline retreat: the nourishment effectively reduced the retreat of the beach face observed in the absence of intervention, thereby protecting the shoreline.
- (ii)
- Enhanced beach resistance: a post-storm evaluation of the nourished beach revealed a significant volume of sand remaining on the beach face and backshore, suggesting that the nourishment project has been effective in resisting erosion.
- (iii)
- Seawall protection: by avoiding or limiting the direct wave action on the seawall, the nourishment mitigates potential structural damage and erosion.
- (iv)
- Safeguarding infrastructure: the nourished beach reduces the risk of overtopping and inundation events, which have historically affected the area [39], and provides a protective buffer for the beach and urban support infrastructure located landward of the seawall.
- (i)
- The validation was restricted to the morphological evolution because of nonexistent measured synoptic hydrodynamic data. Despite the inherent hydrodynamic action of morphological evolution, the two components of morphodynamics should be validated separately to control the largest possible number of site-dependent parameters. For a study site 200 km north of Costa da Caparica, ref. [40] concluded that the numerical scheme used to propagate short waves and the breaking criterion were important calibration parameters to improve the surfbeat model performance. In our study, unlike [40], who used the original second-order upwind scheme, we used the warmbeam scheme to improve the surfbeat solver stability as suggested by [35], and we used the same formulation for the wave dissipation by breaking the [34] formulation, but without adjusting the breaking criterion parameter as performed by the authors.
- (ii)
- The current numerical domain is restricted by the limitations of the existing topo-bathymetric monitoring area. Expanding the monitoring area laterally and further offshore would be beneficial. This expanded data collection would enable a more accurate representation of the physical processes, particularly the influence of long waves [7,32].
- (iii)
- The selection of the 1DH stationary solver [7] for model validation was driven by a combination of factors: the study area’s size, the need for high grid resolution, the two-month simulation period, and the prevailing low-energy wave conditions. While strategically chosen application profiles minimized errors caused by longitudinal morphodynamic variability, the 2DH model version [7,32] is likely to yield more accurate results overall.
6. Conclusions
Author Contributions
Funding
Institutional Review Board Statement
Informed Consent Statement
Data Availability Statement
Acknowledgments
Conflicts of Interest
References
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Intervention Date | Volume Deposited in the Beach Face and Berm [m3] | Location of the Deposit |
---|---|---|
August 2007 | 0.5 × 106 | between EV1 and EC4 (extension 2.4 km) |
August 2008 | 106 | between EV1 and about 500 m south of EC1 (extension 3.8 km) |
August 2009 | 106 | between EV1 and about 500 m south of EC1 (extension 3.8 km) |
26 June–25 August 2014 | 106 | between EV1 and about 500 m south of EC1 (extension 3.8 km) |
August 2019 | 106 | between EV1 and about 500 m south of EC1 (extension 3.8 km) |
Volume × (103) [m3] | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Topo-Bathymetric Survey | Above −9 m CD | Above −1 m CD | Below −1 m CD | Above +2 m CD | Below +2 m CD |
July–August 2008 | 16.03 | 1.74 | 14.29 | 0.30 | 15.73 |
November 2008 | 16.75 | 2.73 | 14.02 | 0.94 | 15.81 |
Profile | Performance Indicators | ||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Impact (Numerical/Observed) | Error | ||||
Retreat [m] at the Levels | Erosion Volume [m3/m] | BSS (δ = 0.15/0.3) | |||
−1 m CD | 0 m CD | +2 m CD | |||
PCC3 | 20/40 | −55/−85 | 0/0 | 77/141 | 0.5/0.6 |
PCC5 | −30/−15 | −25/−35 | 25/30 | 100/113 | 0.7/0.8 |
PCC7 | −70/−75 | −45/−65 | 15/10 | 157/77 | 0.7/0.8 |
PCC9 | −95/−60 | −70/−40 | −10/25 | 199/215 | 0.7/0.8 |
PCC11 | −65/−35 | −45/−30 | 20/15 | 143/153 | 0.6/0.6 |
PCC14 | −45/−30 | −30/−35 | −10/25 | 135/86 | 0.4/0.6 |
Erosion [m3/m] | |||
---|---|---|---|
Cell | Beach Length [m] | Pre-Nourishment | Post-Nourishment |
EC1-EC2 | 295 | 10.6 | 9.5 |
EC2-EC3 | 230 | 8.1 | 7.8 |
EC3-EC4 | 375 | 9.5 | 8.9 |
EC4-EC5 | 280 | 10.2 | 7.3 |
EC5-EC6 | 300 | 13.2 | 8.8 |
EC6-EC7 | 300 | 12.0 | 10.1 |
EC7-EV1 | 1400 | 9.9 | 7.7 |
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Oliveira, F.S.B.F.; Fortunato, A.B.; Freire, P. Beach Nourishment Protection against Storms for Contrasting Backshore Typologies. J. Mar. Sci. Eng. 2024, 12, 1465. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12091465
Oliveira FSBF, Fortunato AB, Freire P. Beach Nourishment Protection against Storms for Contrasting Backshore Typologies. Journal of Marine Science and Engineering. 2024; 12(9):1465. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12091465
Chicago/Turabian StyleOliveira, Filipa S. B. F., André B. Fortunato, and Paula Freire. 2024. "Beach Nourishment Protection against Storms for Contrasting Backshore Typologies" Journal of Marine Science and Engineering 12, no. 9: 1465. https://doi.org/10.3390/jmse12091465