Green Ingredients in Cosmetics and Food (Volume II)

Ultraviolet-B (UVB) exposure is one of the primary extrinsic factors causing skin photoaging. It stimulates inflammatory responses and arrests the cell cycle. Matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) secreted by keratinocytes is one of the important extracellular matrixes to attenuate UVB-induced skin aging via collagen degradation. Curcuma aromatica (CA) and Curcuma comosa (CC), the herbaceous plants in the Zingiberaceae family, are commonly used in Thai traditional women’s medicines. The present work was aimed to investigate the potential of the CA and CC extracts and their isolated compounds to attenuate UVB-induced MMP-1 and cell cycle arrest in HaCaT keratinocytes. Total phenolic contents and antioxidant capacities of the extracts were determined. CC extract contains more phenolic components and provides more potent antioxidant activities than CA extract. HaCaTs were pretreated with the extracts or their isolated constituents 1–4 for 24 h and then repeatedly exposed to UVB at 100 mJ/cm² 10 times. Both extracts and compounds 1–4 effectively reduce UVB-induced MMP-1 levels in HaCaT cells and restore cell cycle arrest. This is the first report on the potential of CA and CC extracts in reducing UVB-induced MMP-1 expression and regulating cell proliferation in HaCaT cells. Thus, CA and CC extracts might be used as alternative natural agents to prevent UVB-induced skin photoaging. Full article

Ground seeds from three species of the genus Passiflora, P. ligularis, P. edulis Sims fo edulis, and P. mollissima, were obtained by extraction, drying, grinding, and sieving, and their physicochemical properties (morphology, hardness, and proximal analysis) were compared to those of commercial exfoliant seeds from passion fruit. Particle sizes between 0.5 and 1 mm were obtained, and their properties were similar to the commercial product except for the extractable material content that was higher. Subsequently, prototypes of an exfoliating cosmetic product were developed by using the ground seeds as the main active ingredient. Rheology characterization of samples enables to verify that the particles have minor effects on emulsion properties and that the emulsion is stable even after thermal treatment. In particular, the pH of the emulsion decreased when using the obtained ground seeds. This is consistent with the extraction and solvation of organic acids into the emulsion, in particular, alpha-hydroxy acids, which are present in high concentrations in Passiflora species. This indicates that the prepared emulsions could have a synergic chemical and physical exfoliating activity and could be used in cosmetic products. Full article

The investigation into promising botanical materials for natural cosmetics is expanding due to environmental and health awareness. Here, we aimed to evaluate the phytochemical substances and the potential skin-related pharmacological activities of four Mucuna seeds, namely M. gigantea (Willd.) DC. (MGG), M. interrupta Gagnep. (MIT), M. monosperma Wight (MMM), and M. pruriens (L.) DC. (MPR), belonging to the Fabaceae family. In methodology, the Mucuna seeds were authenticated using morphological and molecular approaches. L-DOPA, phenolics, and flavonoid content, incorporated with HPLC and GC–MS fingerprinting analyses, were determined. Then, skin-related antimicrobial, antioxidant, and antiaging activities were determined. The results revealed that MPR showed the highest L-DOPA content (75.94 mg/100 mg extract), whereas MGG exhibited the highest phenolic and flavonoid content (56.73 ± 0.62 mg gallic/g extract and 1030.11 ± 3.97 mg quercetin/g extract, respectively). Only MMM and MPR could inhibit all of S. aureus, S. epidermidis, and C. albicans, but no sample could inhibit C. acnes. Furthermore, all samples demonstrated antioxidant activity. Interestingly, all Mucuna samples exhibited strong collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase inhibitory activities. We conclude that the ethanolic extracts of four Mucuna seeds are probably advantageous in the development of skincare cosmeceutical products. Full article

This study focused on the biological evaluation and chemical characterization of a new ingredient obtained by in vitro cell culture of Rhus coriaria L. An in vitro plant cell culture method permits to cultivate plant in a short period of time and to obtain extract with a high safety profile for the consumer, free from heavy metals, pesticides, aflatoxins, bacterial or fungal contamination. Through the selection of specific cell culture media, it was possible to obtain a Rhus coriaria cell line with a high content of gallic acid derivatives. The Rhus coriaria L. phytocomplex (RC-P), containing 7.6% w/w of acid gallic derivatives, was obtained by drying of plant cell biomass after 14 days of growth in the final selected culture medium. UPLC-ESI-MS and UPLC-DAD analysis allowed to identify numerous gallic acid derivatives, such as galloyl hexose, trigalloyl hexose and high molecular weight galloyl derivatives, and to quantify their overall content. The antioxidant activity of the RC-P was tested by DPPH assay and the wound healing activity was evaluated using a scratch wound healing test on human keratinocytes and fibroblasts. This work showed that RC-P could be a new effective cosmetic ingredient with antioxidant and skin repair activity. Full article

Palm fruits (Elaeis guineensis) comprise antioxidants that can be used as skin care agents. This study developed a cosmeceutical cream containing E. guineensis extract, loaded with solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs), and assessed its efficacy on female volunteers. The E. guineensis extract exhibited a good antioxidant activity with high levels of vitamin E, β-carotene, and palmitic acid. Day and night creams containing E. guineensis fruit extract, loaded with SLNs, were formulated and exhibited acceptable physical characteristics and good stability. Subsequently, their clinical efficacy and safety were evaluated on female volunteers. Both creams were non-irritating and had good cutaneous compatibility. Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin elasticity, melanin index, and skin texture were measured before and 30 min after the first application, as well as after 7, 14, and 30 days of daily application. A satisfactory survey was implemented using a questionnaire, and volunteer satisfaction scores were high for the product’s performance. Overall, the results showed that skin hydration, TEWL, cutaneous elasticity, and melanin index were improved, compared to the baseline data, after 30 days. Thus, the formulated facial day and night creams made the skin moist, reduced wrinkles, increased elasticity, and cleared the skin to the consumers’ satisfaction. Full article

Premature aging can be triggered by free radicals from UV rays, since exposure to these rays can cause the skin to experience oxidative stress. Oxidative stress induces intracellular DNA damage, protein denaturation, and lipid peroxidation that lead to cell death. However, cell death can be prevented with antioxidants such as carotenoids, which are among the potential natural compounds for its treatment. Sources of carotenoids include microbial symbionts associated with Sinularia sp., one of which is the bacterium Virgibacillus salarius strain 19.PP.Sc1.6, a carotenoid-producing bacteria. This study aims to explore the utilization of carotenoids from the bacterium V. salarius strain 19.PP.Sc1.6 for the preparation of anti-aging creams. Furthermore, the method employed three formulations (vs, ow, and wo) containing different types of cream tested for stability, and antioxidant and sunscreen abilities. The results obtained established that the carotenoid extract from V. salarius strain 19.PP.Sc1.6 was more stable in the cream vs. the oil-in-water type cream with an anionic emulsifier. Full article

Witch hazel extracts have been used for decades as cosmetic ingredients in skin care products. Our present study aims to evaluate its potential in anti-pollution products using a previously reported in vitro model. Calcium is a universal second messenger, and we used human respiratory and skin cells to detect changes in intracellular Ca²⁺ concentrations upon particulate matter contact. Both an increase in pro-inflammatory markers and a decrease in tight junction proteins were confirmed, as previously reported. Witch hazel stem and leaf extract showed significant attenuation of Ca²⁺ response upon the challenge; it displayed systematic regulations of the signal generator, PAR-2; a pro-inflammatory marker, NF-κB; and a tight junction protein, Occludin. We identified hexagalloylglucose from the extract and concluded that it is a major component regulating protection from particulate matter. Based on these results, witch hazel extract containing hexagalloylglucose is an active ingredient in anti-pollution skin care products. Full article

The present study describes a procedure to isolate essential oils from Rosmarinus officinalis L. using simultaneous distillation–extraction (SDE). Rosmarinus officinalis L. can be used for medicinal purposes, as well in the cooking and cosmetics industries. SDE technique extraction combines a steam distillation combined with a continuous extraction using a solvent or a co-solvent mixture, providing faster extractions with low extraction solvent volumes. The effect of the solvent nature and the extraction time on the simultaneous distillation–extraction efficiency was evaluated. The best performance was achieved using pentane as a solvent for 1 h of extraction. The essential oils obtained by simultaneous distillation–extraction extracts were analyzed by gas chromatography with flame ionization detection (GC-FID). Extraction efficiencies ranged from 40 to 70% for the majority of the compounds tested, and the precision (measured by the relative standard deviation) varied between 6 and 35%. Among the compounds analyzed the most abundant in the Rosmarinus officinalis L. sample were 1,8-cineole, (-) –borneol, α-pinene, (S)-(-)- α–terpineol, (-)-bornyl acetate, linalool, and 2,2,6-trimethylcyclohexanone. The SDE method proved to be a suitable option for obtaining extracts free from cuticular waxes or chlorophylls. Full article

Acne vulgaris is a common chronic inflammatory skin disease. In the present study, we reported the anti-acne vulgaris effect of the Mesua ferrea (M. ferrea) flower extract. The extract was evaluated for three anti-acne-causing bacteria properties including Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes), Staphylococcus epidermidis (S. epidermidis) and Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus). The results indicated that the M. ferrea flower extract could be considered as the bactericidal agent against S. epidermidis and S. aureus with MIC values of 0.78 and 6.25 mg mL⁻¹ and MBC values of 1.56 and 12.50 mg mL⁻¹ and the bacteriostatic agent against C. acnes with MIC and MBC values of 3.12 and 25.00 mg mL⁻¹, respectively. The extract at a concentration of 25 µg mL⁻¹ also presented potent anti-inflammatory activity with a significant decrease of nitric oxide (NO) and tumor necrosis factor (TNF)-α productions in RAW 264.7 macrophage cells stimulated by LPS. In addition, the extract showed moderate to weak anti-oxidative capacities against DPPH, ABTS, FRAP and NO assays and also showed weak anti-tyrosinase activity. M. ferrea flower extract may serve as the alternative natural anti-acne formulations. Full article

The purpose of this work was to evaluate the total phenol content and antioxidant activity of different types of handcrafted beers (Ego, Alter, Fiat Lux, Triplo Malto, Ubi, and Maior), as well as the starting materials (malts, hops, and yeast), the intermediate products, and the waste products (spent malts, hops, and yeast), in view of their use in innovative cosmetic formulations. Extractions from starting and spent samples were taken from water or 70° alcohol. The total phenol content (Folin Ciocalteau Essay) of all the brewing products depended on the specific product under investigation. The highest values were found in starting hops (ranging from approximately 93 to 155 mg GAE/g, according to the extraction solvent), intermediate ones in starting malt and starting yeast, and the lowest values in wort. The total phenol content in the final beers originates from the phenols that were extracted from the different ingredients, namely the starting malts, hops and yeast, but non-negligible values were still observed in spent products. The method used for the evaluation of the antioxidant activity, trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity (DPPH), ferric-ion reducing antioxidant parameter (FRAP), and radical cation scavenging activity and reducing power (ABTS) strongly influenced the results. In general, the results reflected the trend observed for the total phenol content: that beers are progressively enriched by phenols originating from all the starting ingredients, and that spent products still possess non-negligible antioxidant activity. It is interesting to note that waste yeast frequently showed higher values than those of the starting material; it can be inferred that yeast is able to absorb phenols from the beer during brewing. By considering the interest in exploiting waste derived from processing foods, the biological activity of waste Alter brewery products has been evaluated on a cell culture of keratinocytes (spent products of malt, hop, and yeast). Preliminary in vitro assays in keratinocyte HaCaT cells were carried out to assess the potential bioactivity of spent extracts. Among the spent extracts, the spent hop and yeast extracts showed the ability to improve the mitochondrial activity and prevent oxidative stress in HaCaT cells, two features in skin ageing. In conclusion, this study offers evidence that waste from handcrafted beers can be an interesting source of phenols for the preparation of skin anti-aging cosmetics. Full article

As public attention on sustainability is increasing, the use of polysaccharides as rheological modifiers in skin-care products is becoming the first choice. Polysaccharide associations can be used to increase the spreading properties of products and to optimize their sensorial profile. Since the choice of natural raw materials for cosmetics is wide, instrumental methodologies are useful for formulators to easily characterize the materials and to create mixtures with specific applicative properties. In this work, we performed rheological and texture analyses on samples formulated with binary and ternary associations of polysaccharides to investigate their structural and mechanical features as a function of the concentration ratios. The rheological measurements were conducted under continuous and oscillatory flow conditions using a rotational rheometer. An immersion/de-immersion test conducted with a texture analyzer allowed us to measure some textural parameters. Sclerotium gum and iota-carrageenan imparted high viscosity, elasticity, and firmness in the system; carob gum and pectin influenced the viscoelastic properties and determined high adhesiveness and cohesiveness. The results indicated that these natural polymers combined in appropriate ratios can provide a wide range of different textures and that the use of these two complementary techniques represents a valid pre-screening tool for the formulation of green products. Full article

This project aimed to apply eco-friendly extraction methods to Crocus sativus L. by-product (flowers without stigmas i.e., tepals composed of petals and sepals) to recover extracts with high antioxidant capacity and polyphenol content, to be used in cosmetic products. Flowers grown in two different Italian regions (Sample 1—Alba in Piemonte, north of Italy and Sample 2—Sibillini in Marche, centre of Italy) were subjected for the first time to different eco-friendly microwave-mediated green solvents extractions (MGSE) andquali-quantitative determination in antioxidant molecules. Firstly, the extracts from Sample 1 were selected according to their total phenol content (TPC) by Folin–Ciocalteu’s assay and antioxidant capacity (AC) by spectrophotometric assays. Then, according to preliminary results, MGSE carried out in ethanol 70°, water, and glycerin were selected as the most performing methods and applied to both Samples 1 and 2. The best results were obtained using green solvents, such as water or ethanol 70°, for the samples coming from Marche. The identification and quantification of phenolic compounds, belonging to anthocyanins and flavonols classes, was performed by using UPLC-DAD-ESI-MS. Concerning flavonols content, the most abundant analyte is kaempferol 3-O-sophoroside and the extract in water from Sample 1 showed the higher amount of flavonols, reaching the concentration of 25.35 mg of kaempferol 3-O-glucoside equivalent per gram of tepals DW of raw material. Among anthocyanins, the most abundant was delphinidin 3,5-O-diglucoside and the high concentration of anthocyanin was detected in water and ethanol extract. Two new compounds, myricetin-di-glucoside and primflasine, were identified for the first time in Crocus sativus L. by-product by high-resolution mass spectrometry (HRMS). The green batches obtained by extraction were thus characterized and evaluated for their biological potential and safety in keratinocyte HaCaT cells. The extracts were not cytotoxic up to 0.03 mg/mL. The water and ethanol 70° extracts were the most effective in counteracting oxidative stress induced by H2O2 and UVA exposure and reduced cytotoxicity induced by UVB exposure. The water extract was also able to significantly reduce cytotoxicity induced by sodium dodecyl sulphate-induced damage. Taken together, these results suggest a potential use of these waste materials as cosmeceutical preparations such as antiaging, and as anti-skin irritation formulation by-products. Full article

A considerable amount of literature has been published on several aspects of lipsticks production. To date, there is no collation of studies related to lipsticks production that has been published. This review was conducted to examine information about the history of lipsticks; ingredients used in the preparation of lipsticks, focusing on the natural and chemical ingredients; methods of preparation for the lipsticks; and the characterization of the lipsticks. A literature search for English language articles was conducted by searching electronic databases including Web of Science, Scopus, PubMed, and Google Scholar. Overall, the evidence indicates that lipsticks have been used since ancient times and are among the highest demand cosmetics. The findings of this review summarize those of earlier studies that explained the use of different types of ingredients in the manufacturing processes of lipsticks. It highlights the importance of using green technology and ingredients to fabricate lipsticks to avoid potential side effects such as skin irritation and allergy reaction. Full article

Many substances derived from animals are used as ingredients in the cosmetic industry and constitute a particular type of product: zooceuticals. The main ingredients used can come from insects, such as snail slime; land animals, such as lanolin; and marine animals, such as marine collagen. Today, they are used less than in the past for hygienic–sanitary, ethical, and ecological reasons. Moreover, some can give rise to irritative or allergic dermatitis. However, they still represent a fraction of the common ingredients in certain types of cosmetic products today. Full article

The interest in plant extracts and natural compounds in cosmetic formulations is growing. Natural products may significantly improve cosmetics performance since they have both cosmetic and therapeutic-like properties, known as cosmeceutical effects. Glycyrrhiza genus, belonging to the Leguminosae family, comprises more than 30 species, widely distributed worldwide. The rhizomes and roots are the most important medicinal parts currently used in pharmaceutical industries and in the production of functional foods and food supplements. In the last few years, the interest in their potential activities in cosmetic formulations has greatly increased. Glycyrrhiza spp. extracts are widely implemented in cosmetic products for their good whitening effect. The biological effects of Glycyrrhiza extracts are especially ascribable to the occurrence of specialized metabolites belonging to the flavonoid class. This review focuses on the botany and the chemistry of the main investigated Glycyrrhiza spp. (G. glabra, G. uralensis, and G. inflata) along with their cosmeceutical activities categorized as skin anti-aging, photoprotective, hair care, and anti-acne. It has been highlighted how, along with Glycyrrhiza extracts, three main flavonoids namely licochalcone A, glabridin, and dehydroglyasperin C are the most investigated compounds. It is noteworthy that other molecules from licorice show potential cosmeceutical effects. These data suggest further investigations to clarify their potential value for cosmetic industries. Full article

The increased demand for conscious, sustainable and beneficial products by the consumers has pushed researchers from both industries and universities worldwide to search for smart strategies capable of reducing the environmental footprint, especially the ones connected with industrial wastes. Among various by-products, generally considered as waste, those obtained by winemaking industries have attracted the attention of a wide variety of companies, other than the vineries. In particular, grape pomaces are considered of interest due to their high content in bioactive molecules, especially phenolic compounds. The latter can be recovered from grape pomace and used as active ingredients in easily marketable cosmetic products. Indeed, phenolic compounds are well known for their remarkable beneficial properties at the skin level, such as antioxidant, antiaging, anti-hyperpigmentation and photoprotective effects. The exploitation of the bioactives contained in grape pomaces to obtain high value cosmetics may support the growing of innovative start-ups and expand the value chain of grapes. This review aims to describe the strategies for recovery of polyphenols from grape pomace, to highlight the beneficial potential of these extracts, both in vitro and in vivo, and their potential utilization as active ingredients in cosmetic products. Full article

Long life expectancy of populations in the developing world together with some cultural and social issues has driven the need to pay special attention to health and physical appearance. Cosmeceuticals are gaining interest in the cosmetic industry as their uses fulfills a double purpose: the requirements of a cosmetic (clean, perfume, protect, change the appearance of the external parts of the body or keeping them in good condition) with a particular bioactivity function. The cosmetics industry, producing both cosmetics and cosmeceuticals, is currently facing numerous challenges to satisfy different attitudes of consumers (vegetarianism, veganism, cultural or religious concerns, health or safety reasons, eco-friendly process, etc.). A currently growing trend in the market is the interest in products of low environmental impact. Marine origin ingredients are increasingly being incorporated into cosmeceutical preparations because they are able to address several consumer requirements and also due to the wide range of bioactivities they present (antioxidant, whitening, anti-aging, etc.). Many companies claim “Marine” as a distinctive marketing signal; however, only a few indicate whether they use sustainable ingredient sources. Sustainable marine ingredients might be obtained using wild marine biomass through a sustainable extractive fishing activity; by adopting valorization strategies including the use of fish discards and fish by-products; and by sustainably farming and culturing marine organisms. Full article