Sustainable Clothing Consumption: Circular Use of Apparel

Clothing is an essential part of our daily lives that contributes to physical and psychosocial well-being. However, clothing production and consumption has increased to a level that has a severe negative impact on the environment. The industry is now one of the most polluting in the world, with a direct negative impact on water, soil, and air, in addition to having major ethical challenges [1–3]. It is estimated that clothing production and consumption now constitutes 3–6.7% of global carbon dioxide emissions [4,5].

Consumers can reduce their negative environmental contribution through various strategies in different consumption phases, from acquisition through use and care to disposal [6,7]. The most effective measure is to reduce consumption levels [8]. The aim of this thematic issue is to get more knowledge on topics that affect clothing lifespans and use including the technical and social aspects, which factors contribute to these, and how to change consumption patterns so that significant reductions can be achieved.

For reducing the total volume of clothing consumption, strategies such as prolonging clothing lifespans, and using collaborative consumption principles e.g. sharing can contribute to decreasing personal wardrobe sizes [9–13]. Reuse, repair, and repurposing are examples of tools that consumers may use for this purpose [14,15]. Several design strategies have been suggested to lower clothing replacement cycles, including user involvement in design and/or manufacture, production on demand, service-based systems, as well as multifunctional and repairable garments [16–19]. However, there is lack of empirical data on whether these reduce the environmental impact of consumption, and there is evidence that they may not function as intended [20,21]. At the final consumption phase, selecting disposal methods that are higher on the waste hierarchy is environmentally preferable, such as giving clothing to reuse instead of wasting it [22].

Maintenance of clothing is important, as it contributes to pollution in waterways such as the spread of microplastics and harmful chemicals from detergents, in addition to the consumption of energy and water in laundering, drying, and other care [23,24]. At the same time, maintenance is crucial for keeping clothing functional. Consumers can reduce this environmental impact through choice of materials, washing frequencies, and cleaning methods [25,26].

This thematic Issue encourages research into all above-mentioned topics and strategies related to clothing use phase and sustainable consumption. Articles focusing on production are outside the scope of this Issue. Different methodological approaches are welcome, including qualitative and quantitative studies, case studies, experiments, as well as articles that aim to develop theoretical approaches.

References

1. Lehmann, M.; Tärneberg, S.; Tochtermann, T.; Chalmer, C.; Eder-Hansen, J.; Seara, J.F.; Boger, S.; Hase, C.; Berlepsch, V.V.; Deichmann, S. Pulse of the fashion industry; Global Fashion Agenda & The Boston Consulting Group: 2018; http://www.globalfashionagenda.com/download/3700/.
2. Fletcher, K. Sustainable fashion & textiles: Design journeys. Earthscan: London, 2008; ISBN 1844074633.
3. Allwood, J.M.; Laursen, S.E.; Malvido de Rodríquez, C.; Bocken, N.M.P. Well dressed? The present and future sustainability of clothing and textiles in the united kingdom; University of Cambridge, Institute for Manufacturing: Cambridge, 2006; https://www.ifm.eng.cam.ac.uk/uploads/Resources/Other_Reports/UK_textiles.pdf.
4. Carbon Trust. International carbon flows - clothing (ctc793); CTC793; Carbon Trust: London, 6.5.2011, 2011; p 17 http://www.carbontrust.com/media/38358/ctc793-international-carbon-flows-clothing.pdf.
5. Quantis. Measuring fashion. Environmental impact of the global apparel and footwear industries study; ClimateWorks Foundation: 2018; https://quantis-intl.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/measuringfashion_globalimpactstudy_full-report_quantis_cwf_2018a.pdf.
6. Laitala, K.; Boks, C. Sustainable clothing design: Use matters. Journal of design research 2012, 10, 121-139, doi 10.1504/JDR.2012.046142
7. Gracey, F.; Moon, D. Valuing our clothes: The evidence base; WRAP: Banbury, UK, July, 2012; p 69 http://www.wrap.org.uk/sites/files/wrap/10.7.12%20VOC-%20FINAL.pdf.
8. Cooper, T. Longer lasting products: Alternatives to the throwaway society. Gower Publishing Limited Surrey, UK, 2010;
9. Goworek, H.; Oxborrow, L.; Claxton, S.; McLaren, A.; Cooper, T.; Hill, H. Managing sustainability in the fashion business: Challenges in product development for clothing longevity in the uk. Journal of Business Research 2018, doi https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2018.07.021.
10. Zamani, B.; Sandin, G.; Peters, G.M. Life cycle assessment of clothing libraries: Can collaborative consumption reduce the environmental impact of fast fashion? Journal of Cleaner Production 2017, 162, 1368-1375, doi https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2017.06.128.
11. Klepp, I.G.; Laitala, K. Shared use and owning of clothes: Borrow, steal, or inherit. In Contemporary collaborative consumption - trust and reciprocity revisited, Cruz, I.S.; Ganga, R.; Wahlen, S., Eds. Springer VS: Wiesbaden, Germany, 2018; pp 153-177
12. Fletcher, K. Craft of use : Post-growth fashion. Routledge: Abingdon, Oxon, 2016; ISBN 9781138021006.
13. Fletcher, K.; Grose, L. Fashion and sustainability: Design for change. Laurence King: London, 2012; p 192 978 1 85669 754 5.
14. Fisher, K.; James, K.; Maddox, P. Benefits of reuse case study: Clothing; WRAP: Banbury, UK, November, 2011; p 41 http://www.wrap.org.uk/sites/files/wrap/Clothing%20reuse_final.pdf.
15. Laitala, K.; Klepp, I.G. Care and production of clothing in norwegian homes: Environmental implications of mending and making practices. Sustainability 2018, 10, 2899, doi 10.3390/su10082899.
16. Maldini, I.; Balkenende, A.R. In Reducing clothing production volumes by design: A critical review of sustainable fashion strategies, Product Lifetimes And The Environment - PLATE 2017, Delft, 9 November, 2017; Bakker, C.; Mugge, R., Eds. Delft University of Technology and IOS Press: Delft, pp 233-237 http://ebooks.iospress.nl/publication/47876.
17. Cooper, T.; Hill, H.; Kininmonth, J.; Townsend, K.; Hughes, M.; Shorrocks, J.; Knox, A.; Fisher, T.; Saicheua, V. Design for longevity - guidance on increasing the active life of clothing; Wrap: Banbury, Oxon, 2013; http://www.wrap.org.uk/sites/files/wrap/Design%20for%20Longevity%20Report_0.pdf.
18. Niinimäki, K.; Hassi, L. Emerging design strategies in sustainable production and consumption of textiles and clothing. Journal of Cleaner Production 2011, 19, 1876-1883, doi 10.1016/j.jclepro.2011.04.020.
19. Niinimäki, K. Sustainable fashion: New approaches. Aalto University: Helsinki, 2013; 9789526055725.
20. Maldini, I.; Stappers, P.J.; Gimeno-Martinez, J.C.; Daanen, H.A.M. Assessing the impact of design strategies on clothing lifetimes, usage and volumes: The case of product personalisation. Journal of Cleaner Production 2019, 210, 1414-1424, doi https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.11.056.
21. Fletcher, K. Durability, fashion, sustainability: The processes and practices of use. Fashion Practice: The Journal of Design, Creative Process & the Fashion 2012, 4, 221-238, doi 10.2752/175693812X13403765252389.
22. Laitala, K.; Klepp, I.G. Clothing disposal habits and consequences for life cycle assessment (lca). In Handbook of life cycle assessment (lca) of textiles and clothing, Muthu, S.S., Ed. Woodhead Publishing (Elsevier Ltd): Cambridge, 2015; pp 345-365 9780081001691.
23. Bain, J.; Beton, A.; Schultze, A.; Mudgal, S.; Dowling, M.; Holdway, R.; Owens, J. Reducing the environmental impact of clothes cleaning: A research report completed for defra; BIO intelligence Service in collaboration with Giraffe and Intertek: London, 2009; http://randd.defra.gov.uk/Document.aspx?Document=EV0419_8628_FRP.pdf.
24. Henry, B.; Laitala, K.; Klepp, I.G. Microfibres from apparel and home textiles: Prospects for including microplastics in environmental sustainability assessment. Science of The Total Environment 2019, 652, 483-494, doi https://doi.org/10.1016/j.scitotenv.2018.10.166.
25. Laitala, K.; Boks, C.; Klepp, I.G. Potential for environmental improvements in laundering. International Journal of Consumer Studies 2011, 35, 254-264, doi 10.1111/j.1470-6431.2010.00968.x.
26. Laitala, K.; Klepp, I.; Henry, B. Does use matter? Comparison of environmental impacts of clothing based on fiber type. Sustainability 2018, 10, doi 10.3390/su10072524.

Dr. Kirsi Laitala
Guest Editor

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• Apparel longevity and active use
• Circular economy and collaborative clothing consumption
• Clothing design for sustainable behaviour
• Environemtnal impact of use phase
• Laundry and maintenance
• Policy measures for sustainable consumption
• Repair, repurposing, and redesign
• Reuse and disposal.