Antioxidants from Agrofood Wastes for Cosmetic Industry: Insights into Green Extraction Approaches

A special issue of Antioxidants (ISSN 2076-3921). This special issue belongs to the section "Extraction and Industrial Applications of Antioxidants".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (30 June 2023) | Viewed by 16224

Special Issue Editor

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

In recent decades, concerns related to food by-products and their associated environmental problems have arisen as challenges for agrofood industries, governments, and civil society. It is estimated that 88 million tonnes of food waste are annually generated in the EU, with associated costs of 143 billion euros. Most of these residues are not transformed due to technical limitations or difficulties in market access, meaning solutions to deal with this problem are urgently needed. These topics make researchers aware of the bioactive composition of food wastes and of the possibility to obtain new active ingredients. The extractive process is the most critical step. Conventional extraction has long been applied to the recovery of bioactive compounds from natural sources, but this technique has limitations. Alternative greener extraction technologies, such as Subcritical Water Extraction (SWE), Supercritical Fluids Extraction (SFE) or Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction (UAE), have emerged as more sustainable and effective.

This Special Issue intends to explore the extraction of food by-products with antioxidative activity using eco-friendly techniques, aiming to reuse them as new cosmetic ingredients. Special attention will be given to in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo studies, mathematical models to optimize extraction procedures and deep insights into the characterization of bioactive compositions using analytical methodologies (such as HPLC-DAD, HPLC-MS, LC–MS, HPLC–MS and NMR). Regulatory review papers are welcome.

Dr. Francisca Rodrigues
Guest Editor

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Keywords

  • green extraction techniques
  • subcritical water extraction
  • ultrasound-assisted extraction
  • food by-products
  • 3D skin models
  • skin permeation
  • regulatory frameworks
  • biological properties
  • cosmetic formulation
  • anti-aging effects

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Published Papers (5 papers)

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Research

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19 pages, 2400 KiB  
Article
Green Extraction of Polyphenols from Waste Bentonite to Produce Functional Antioxidant Excipients for Cosmetic and Pharmaceutical Purposes: A Waste-to-Market Approach
by Giulia Di Prima, Elena Belfiore, Martina Migliore, Amalia Giulia Scarpaci, Giuseppe Angellotti, Ignazio Restivo, Mario Allegra, Vincenzo Arizza and Viviana De Caro
Antioxidants 2022, 11(12), 2493; https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox11122493 - 19 Dec 2022
Cited by 8 | Viewed by 2601
Abstract
In an ever-growing perspective of circular economy, the development of conscious, sustainable and environmental-friendly strategies to recycle the waste products is the key point. The scope of this work was to validate the waste bentonite from the grape processing industries as a precious [...] Read more.
In an ever-growing perspective of circular economy, the development of conscious, sustainable and environmental-friendly strategies to recycle the waste products is the key point. The scope of this work was to validate the waste bentonite from the grape processing industries as a precious matrix to extract polyphenols by applying a waste-to-market approach aimed at producing novel functional excipients. The waste bentonite was recovered after the fining process and opportunely pre-treated. Subsequently, both the freeze dried and the so-called “wet” bentonites were subjected to maceration. PEG200 and Propylene Glycol were selected as solvents due to their ability to dissolve polyphenols and their wide use in the cosmetic/pharmaceutical field. The extracts were evaluated in terms of yield, density, pH after water-dilution, total phenolic (Folin–Ciocalteu) and protein (Bradford) contents, antioxidant power (DPPH), amount of some representative polyphenols (HPLC-DAD), cytocompatibility and stability. Both solvents validated the bentonite as a valuable source of polyphenols and led to colored fluids characterized by an acidic pH after water-dilution. The best extract was obtained from the wet bentonite with PEG200 and highlighted the highest phenolic content and consequently the strongest antioxidant activity. Additionally, it displayed proliferative properties and resulted almost stable over time. Hence, it might be directly used as polyphenols-enriched functional novel raw material for cosmetic and pharmaceutics purposes. Full article
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18 pages, 689 KiB  
Article
Salicornia ramosissima: A New Green Cosmetic Ingredient with Promising Skin Effects
by Ana Correia, Ana Margarida Silva, Manuela M. Moreira, Miguel Salazar, Jaroslava Švarc-Gajić, Tanja Brezo-Borjan, Maria de la Luz Cádiz-Gurrea, Antonio Segura Carretero, Francesca Loschi, Stefano Dall’Acqua, Cristina Delerue-Matos and Francisca Rodrigues
Antioxidants 2022, 11(12), 2449; https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox11122449 - 12 Dec 2022
Cited by 10 | Viewed by 3178
Abstract
This study aims to validate a new cosmetic ingredient from Salicornia ramosissima S J. Woods through in vitro and ex vivo assays. The halophyte extracts were obtained by subcritical water extraction (SWE) at different temperatures (110, 120, 140, 160 and 180 °C). The [...] Read more.
This study aims to validate a new cosmetic ingredient from Salicornia ramosissima S J. Woods through in vitro and ex vivo assays. The halophyte extracts were obtained by subcritical water extraction (SWE) at different temperatures (110, 120, 140, 160 and 180 °C). The antioxidant/radical scavenging activities and the phenolic profile were screened for all extracts. The optimal extract was assessed in keratinocytes and fibroblasts, while permeation assays were performed in Franz cells. The inhibitory activity of hyaluronidase and elastase was also evaluated. The sample extracted at 180 °C presented the highest phenolic content (1739.28 mg/100 g of dry weight (dw)). Despite not being efficient in the sequestration of ABTS•+, this extract scavenged the DPPH (IC50 = 824.57 µg/mL). The scavenging capacity of superoxide (O2•−) and hypochlorous acid (HOCl) was also considerable (respectively, IC50 = 158.87 µg/mL and IC50 = 5.80 µg/mL). The cell viability assays confirmed the absence of negative effects on keratinocytes, while the fibroblasts’ viability slightly decreased. The ex vivo permeation of rutin, quercetin and syringic acid after 24 h was, respectively, 11, 20 and 11%. Additionally, the extract showed a good elastase and hyaluronidase inhibitory activity. The results obtained support the S. ramosissima bioactivity as a cosmetic ingredient. Full article
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10 pages, 1844 KiB  
Article
A Liposomal Formulation to Exploit the Bioactive Potential of an Extract from Graciano Grape Pomace
by Carlos Asensio-Regalado, Rosa María Alonso-Salces, Blanca Gallo, Luis A. Berrueta, Clara Porcedda, Francesca Pintus, Antonio Vassallo and Carla Caddeo
Antioxidants 2022, 11(7), 1270; https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox11071270 - 27 Jun 2022
Cited by 4 | Viewed by 2423
Abstract
Antioxidant compounds with health benefits can be found in food processing residues, such as grape pomace. In this study, antioxidants were identified and quantified in an extract obtained from Graciano red grape pomace via a green process. The antioxidant activity of the extract [...] Read more.
Antioxidant compounds with health benefits can be found in food processing residues, such as grape pomace. In this study, antioxidants were identified and quantified in an extract obtained from Graciano red grape pomace via a green process. The antioxidant activity of the extract was assessed by the DPPH and FRAP tests, and the phenolic content by the Folin–Ciocalteu test. Furthermore, nanotechnologies were employed to produce a safe and effective formulation that would exploit the antioxidant potential of the extract for skin applications. Anthocyanins, flavan-3-ols and flavanols were the main constituents of the grape pomace extract. Phospholipid vesicles, namely liposomes, were prepared and characterized. Cryo-TEM images showed that the extract-loaded liposomes were predominantly spherical/elongated, small, unilamellar vesicles. Light scattering results revealed that the liposomes were small (~100 nm), homogeneously dispersed, and stable during storage. The non-toxicity of the liposomal formulation was demonstrated in vitro in skin cells, suggesting its possible safe use. These findings indicate that an extract with antioxidant properties can be obtained from food processing residues, and a liposomal formulation can be developed to exploit its bioactive value, resulting in a promising healthy product. Full article
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15 pages, 1929 KiB  
Article
Valorization of Kiwiberry Leaves Recovered by Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction for Skin Application: A Response Surface Methodology Approach
by Ana Margarida Silva, Diana Pinto, Manuela M. Moreira, Paulo C. Costa, Cristina Delerue-Matos and Francisca Rodrigues
Antioxidants 2022, 11(4), 763; https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox11040763 - 12 Apr 2022
Cited by 22 | Viewed by 3853
Abstract
This study aims to evaluate the optimal ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) conditions of antioxidants polyphenols from Actinidia arguta (Siebold & Zucc.) Planch. Ex Miq. (kiwiberry) leaves using a response surface methodology (RSM). The effects of solid:liquid ratio (2.5–10.0% w/v), time (20–60 [...] Read more.
This study aims to evaluate the optimal ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) conditions of antioxidants polyphenols from Actinidia arguta (Siebold & Zucc.) Planch. Ex Miq. (kiwiberry) leaves using a response surface methodology (RSM). The effects of solid:liquid ratio (2.5–10.0% w/v), time (20–60 min), and intensity (30–70 W/m2) on the total phenolic content (TPC) and antioxidant/antiradical activities were investigated. The optimal UAE conditions were achieved using a solid:liquid ratio of 10% (w/v) and an ultrasonic intensity of 30 W/m2 for 31.11 min. The results demonstrated that the optimal extract showed a high TPC (97.50 mg of gallic acid equivalents (GAE)/g dw) and antioxidant/antiradical activity (IC50 = 249.46 µg/mL for ABTS assay; IC50 = 547.34 µg/mL for DPPH assay; 1440.13 µmol of ferrous sulfate equivalents (FSE)/g dw for ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP)) as well as a good capacity to scavenge superoxide and hypochlorous acid (respectively, IC50 = 220.13 μg/mL and IC50 =10.26 μg/mL), which may be related with the 28 phenolic compounds quantified. The in vitro cell assay demonstrated that the optimal extract did not decrease the keratinocytes’ (HaCaT) viability, while the fibroblasts’ (HFF-1) viability was greater than 70.63% (1000 µg/mL). This study emphasizes the great potential of kiwiberry leaves extracted by UAE for skin application. Full article
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Review

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23 pages, 1298 KiB  
Review
Application of Response Surface Methodologies to Optimize High-Added Value Products Developments: Cosmetic Formulations as an Example
by Francisco-Javier Leyva-Jiménez, Álvaro Fernández-Ochoa, María de la Luz Cádiz-Gurrea, Jesús Lozano-Sánchez, Rodrigo Oliver-Simancas, M. Elena Alañón, Ines Castangia, Antonio Segura-Carretero and David Arráez-Román
Antioxidants 2022, 11(8), 1552; https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox11081552 - 10 Aug 2022
Cited by 16 | Viewed by 3190
Abstract
In recent years, green and advanced extraction technologies have gained great interest to revalue several food by-products. This by-product revaluation is currently allowing the development of high value-added products, such as functional foods, nutraceuticals, or cosmeceuticals. Among the high valued-added products, cosmeceuticals are [...] Read more.
In recent years, green and advanced extraction technologies have gained great interest to revalue several food by-products. This by-product revaluation is currently allowing the development of high value-added products, such as functional foods, nutraceuticals, or cosmeceuticals. Among the high valued-added products, cosmeceuticals are innovative cosmetic formulations which have incorporated bioactive natural ingredients providing multiple benefits on skin health. In this context, the extraction techniques are an important step during the elaboration of cosmetic ingredients since they represent the beginning of the formulation process and have a great influence on the quality of the final product. Indeed, these technologies are claimed as efficient methods to retrieve bioactive compounds from natural sources in terms of resource utilization, environmental impact, and costs. This review offers a summary of the most-used green and advanced methodologies to obtain cosmetic ingredients with the maximum performance of these extraction techniques. Response surface methodologies may be applied to enhance the optimization processes, providing a simple way to understand the extraction process as well as to reach the optimum conditions to increase the extraction efficiency. The combination of both assumes an economic improvement to attain high value products that may be applied to develop functional ingredients for cosmetics purposes. Full article
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