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Pharmaceutics
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Skin Care Products for Healthy and Diseased Skin
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Skin Care Products for Healthy and Diseased Skin

A special issue of Pharmaceutics (ISSN 1999-4923). This special issue belongs to the section "Drug Targeting and Design".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: 30 April 2025 | Viewed by 23773

Special Issue Editor

Dr. Nina Dragićević

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Department of Pharmacy, Singidunum University, 11000 Belgrade, Serbia
Interests: skin delivery; dermal delivery; transdermal delivery; nanocarriers; liposomes; penetration enhancer
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

The skin represents the largest organ in humans, and it covers the whole body. It is the body's first line of defense against undesired influences from the environment caused by exogenous substances. Thus, maintaining skin health is of crucial importance and necessitates a multifaceted approach.

Healthy and diseased skin require distinct yet essential skincare approaches to maintain their wellbeing and address specific concerns. Therefore, skin care products for healthy and diseased skin overlap somewhere, but they also differ because they address different needs and concerns.

In the case of healthy skin, skin care products are used for the delivery of actives to the skin with the aim to maintain the skin's barrier function, minimizing the disruption of the stratum corneum and the acid mantle. Furthermore, skin care products should be used to provide protection against harmful UV rays, preventing premature aging and reducing the risk of skin cancer.

In contrast to healthy skin, diseased skin (e.g., Eczema, Psoriasis, Acne, etc.) demands a rigorous clinical approach, i.e., the use of specialized skin care products besides prescription medications based on corticosteroids, retinoids, antibiotics, etc. Even systemic immunosuppressants could be warranted in severe cases.

Besides conventional products, innovative skincare products are continually emerging to respond to the diverse needs of both healthy and diseased skin. Various new skin-friendly emulsifiers (e.g., natural emulsifiers) and new actives (e.g., different plant extracts, etc.) for skin care have emerged in recent years. Emulsifier-free creams, such as derma membrane structure creams, with a physical structure similar to the skin barriers, are becoming popular as vehicles for modern skincare preparations. Pioneering research into the skin's microbiome underscores the significance of symbiotic microorganisms in dermatological health and disease; thus, microbiome-balancing products containing prebiotics, probiotics, and postbiotics are used to support a healthy skin ecosystem. Furthermore, DNA repair serums containing enzymes and peptides designed to repair DNA damage in the skin, caused by UV exposure and ageing, have been developed. In addition, skincare products designed to protect against blue light damage have also emerged. A hotspot in recent years has been skin care products with nanoparticle-based carriers for pharmaceutical and cosmetic active ingredients, which enhance skin delivery and the efficacy of drugs while minimizing their side effects.

Thus, with this Special Issue, we aim to highlight current progress in the use of conventional skin care products, as well as to represent novel approaches based on multifunctional modern skin care products.

Dr. Nina Dragićević
Guest Editor

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Keywords

  • skin care products
  • skin delivery
  • healthy skin
  • diseased skin
  • nanoparticle-based products
  • natural emulsifiers

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Published Papers (9 papers)

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Research

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18 pages, 4827 KiB  
Article
Influence of Ethanol as a Preservative in Topical Formulation on the Dermal Penetration Efficacy of Active Compounds in Healthy and Barrier-Disrupted Skin
by Christian Raab, Tien Trung Do and Cornelia M. Keck
Pharmaceutics 2025, 17(2), 196; https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics17020196 - 4 Feb 2025
Viewed by 890
Abstract
(1) Background: Ethanol is a multifunctional excipient often used as a preservative in topical formulations. Due to its known ability to impair skin barrier function, this study investigated the effect of ethanol (EtOH) as a preservative in creams on the dermal penetration of [...] Read more.
(1) Background: Ethanol is a multifunctional excipient often used as a preservative in topical formulations. Due to its known ability to impair skin barrier function, this study investigated the effect of ethanol (EtOH) as a preservative in creams on the dermal penetration of active compounds. (2) Methods: A hydrophilic and a lipophilic fluorescent dye were used as active ingredient surrogates that were incorporated into creams with and without ethanol. The dermal penetration efficacy was assessed by epifluorescence microscopy on an ex vivo porcine ear model with intact and irritated skin. (3) Results: Ethanol reduced the dermal penetration by about 40% for the hydrophilic and about 20% for the lipophilic surrogates on intact skin, but had minimal impact on irritated skin. The bio-physical skin properties were also altered by the addition of ethanol to the cream. On intact skin, it increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and decreased skin hydration, whereas on irritated skin, it decreased TEWL and increased skin hydration. The results indicate that skin impairment can be considered to have different stages, while in an early stage of skin impairment, the formation of a “Pudding skin” is proposed. A “Pudding skin” is the formation of a thin layer of dried skin on top of the skin that “seals” the lower parts of the skin and reduces dermal penetration and water loss from inside the skin and reduces the dermal penetration of chemical compounds from outside the skin. (4) Conclusions: Overall, the findings emphasize the need to carefully consider the use of ethanol in formulations, balancing its preservative benefits with its potential to impair the efficacy of active ingredients, particularly in varying skin conditions. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Care Products for Healthy and Diseased Skin)
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23 pages, 4442 KiB  
Article
Biotechnological Phytocomplex of Zanthoxylum piperitum (L.) DC. Enhances Collagen Biosynthesis In Vitro and Improves Skin Elasticity In Vivo
by Giovanna Rigillo, Giovanna Pressi, Oriana Bertaiola, Chiara Guarnerio, Matilde Merlin, Roberto Zambonin, Stefano Pandolfo, Angela Golosio, Francesca Masin, Fabio Tascedda, Marco Biagi and Giulia Baini
Pharmaceutics 2025, 17(1), 138; https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics17010138 - 20 Jan 2025
Viewed by 1453
Abstract
Background: Zanthoxylum piperitum (L.) DC., commonly known as Japanese pepper, is a deciduous shrub native to East Asia. Its berries are widely used as a spice, known for imparting a distinctive, tingly numbing sensation. Biologically, Z. piperitum has antimicrobial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory [...] Read more.
Background: Zanthoxylum piperitum (L.) DC., commonly known as Japanese pepper, is a deciduous shrub native to East Asia. Its berries are widely used as a spice, known for imparting a distinctive, tingly numbing sensation. Biologically, Z. piperitum has antimicrobial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties, and it is studied for its potential benefits in pain relief and digestive health. This study proposed a novel biotechnological Z. piperitum phytocomplex (ZPP) obtained by plant cell culture for skin health, specifically targeting collagen synthesis, extracellular matrix stability, and resilience against cellular stress. Given the bioactivity of Z. piperitum, we aimed to analyze its efficacy as a sustainable alternative for skin-supportive applications in cosmetics and supplements. Methods: ZPP was produced through stable plant cell cultures, yielding a lignan-rich (3.02% w/w) phytocomplex. Human fibroblasts (HFFs) were treated with varying ZPP concentrations to assess cellular viability, collagen metabolism, and ECM-related enzyme activities, both under normal and cell stress conditions. The in vivo assessment was performed by measuring biophysical skin parameters such as hydration, elasticity, and roughness in female volunteers for a period of six weeks. Results: In vitro, ZPP exhibited non-cytotoxicity at all concentrations tested. Under hyperosmotic stress, ZPP reduced cellular damage, suggesting enhanced resilience. ZPP upregulated lysyl oxidase (LOX) protein levels, critical for collagen cross-linking and ECM stability, with protective effects observed under oxidative/inflammatory conditions. Additionally, ZPP selectively inhibited collagenase, attenuating collagen breakdown, though antioxidant activity was modest. In vivo evaluation highlighted improved skin hydration, elasticity, and roughness. Conclusions: ZPP shows promise as a biotechnological agent for skin health, particularly in supporting collagen integrity, ECM stabilization, and cellular resilience under stress. While further studies are needed to explore its full efficacy, especially for aging and environmentally stressed skin, these findings highlight ZPP’s potential as a new ingredient for cosmetic formulations aimed at skin care and the treatment of alterations caused by aging or environmental conditions. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Care Products for Healthy and Diseased Skin)
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19 pages, 7037 KiB  
Article
Therapeutic Potential of Insect Defensin DLP4 Against Staphylococcus hyicus-Infected Piglet Exudative Epidermitis
by Xuanxuan Ma, Zhimin Dong, Ruoyu Mao, Xiangxue Tian, Na Yang, Weike Ren, Ya Hao, Wenluan Shen, Da Teng, Xiuli Li and Jianhua Wang
Pharmaceutics 2024, 16(11), 1350; https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics16111350 - 22 Oct 2024
Viewed by 997
Abstract
Background/Objectives: The emergence of resistance to Staphylococcus hyicus (S. hyicus), the major cause of exudative epidermatitis (EE) in piglets, has led to the need for new antimicrobial agents. The study aimed to evaluate the potential efficacy of the insect defensin [...] Read more.
Background/Objectives: The emergence of resistance to Staphylococcus hyicus (S. hyicus), the major cause of exudative epidermatitis (EE) in piglets, has led to the need for new antimicrobial agents. The study aimed to evaluate the potential efficacy of the insect defensin DLP4 against EE in piglets caused by clinically isolated S. hyicus ACCC 61734. Methods and Results: DLP4 showed strong antibacterial activity against S. hyicus ACCC 61734 (minimum inhibitory concentration, MIC: 0.92 μM, median effect concentration, EC50: 3.158 μM). DLP4 could effectively inhibit the formation of S. hyicus early biofilm with an inhibition rate of 95.10–98.34% and eradicate mature biofilm with a clearance rate of 82.09–86.41%, which was significantly superior to that of ceftriaxone sodium (CRO). Meanwhile, DLP4 could efficiently inhibit bacteria in early and mature biofilm, killing up to 95.3% of bacteria in early biofilm and 87.2–90.3% of bacteria in mature biofilm. The results showed that DLP4 could be effective in alleviating the clinical symptoms of EE by down-regulating the nuclear factor κB (NF-κB) signaling pathway, balancing cytokines, inhibiting bacterial proliferation, and reducing organ tissue damage. Conclusions: This study firstly demonstrated the potential efficacy of DLP4 against EE caused by S. hyicus ACCC 61734 infection in piglets, which may be used as an alternative to antibiotics in treating EE. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Care Products for Healthy and Diseased Skin)
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11 pages, 1758 KiB  
Article
Evaluation of a Cosmetic Formulation Containing Arginine Glutamate in Patients with Burn Scars: A Pilot Study
by HanBi Kim, InSuk Kwak, MiSun Kim, JiYoung Um, SoYeon Lee, BoYoung Chung, ChunWook Park, JongGu Won and HyeOne Kim
Pharmaceutics 2024, 16(10), 1283; https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics16101283 - 30 Sep 2024
Viewed by 2355
Abstract
Background: Patients with burn scars require effective treatments able to alleviate dry skin and persistent itching. Ion pairing has been employed in cosmetic formulations to enhance solubility in solvents and improve skin permeability. To evaluate the efficacy and safety of the cosmetic formula [...] Read more.
Background: Patients with burn scars require effective treatments able to alleviate dry skin and persistent itching. Ion pairing has been employed in cosmetic formulations to enhance solubility in solvents and improve skin permeability. To evaluate the efficacy and safety of the cosmetic formula “RE:pair (arginine–glutamate ion pair)”, we analyzed scar size, itching and pain, skin barrier function, scar scale evaluation, and satisfaction in our study participants. Methods: A total of 10 patients were recruited, and the formula was used twice a day for up to 4 weeks. Results: Itching was significantly alleviated after 4 weeks of treatment (95% CI = −0.11–1.71) compared to before application (95% CI = 2.11–4.68). Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) showed an 11% improvement after 4 weeks (95% CI = 3.43–8.83) compared to before application (95% CI = 3.93–9.88), and skin coreneum hydration (SCH) showed a significant 41% improvement after 4 weeks (95% CI = 43.01–62.38) compared to before application (95% CI = 20.94–40.65). Conclusions: Based on the confirmation that RE:pair improves skin barrier function and relieves itching, it is likely to be used as a topical treatment for burn scars pending evaluation in follow-up studies (IRB no. HG2023-016). Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Care Products for Healthy and Diseased Skin)
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13 pages, 1254 KiB  
Article
Wrinkle Reduction Using Tetrapeptide-68 Contained in an O/W Formulation: A Randomized Double-Blind Placebo-Controlled Study
by Sung-Gyu Lee, Sang-Moon Kang and Hyun Kang
Pharmaceutics 2024, 16(8), 987; https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics16080987 - 25 Jul 2024
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 1629
Abstract
Peptides, composed of 2–50 amino acids, have gained attention in anti-aging treatments due to their high safety, low irritation, and cost-effective production. This study aimed to evaluate the anti-wrinkle efficacy of Tetrapeptide-68, derived from the skin structural protein Loricrin, on periorbital wrinkles in [...] Read more.
Peptides, composed of 2–50 amino acids, have gained attention in anti-aging treatments due to their high safety, low irritation, and cost-effective production. This study aimed to evaluate the anti-wrinkle efficacy of Tetrapeptide-68, derived from the skin structural protein Loricrin, on periorbital wrinkles in women aged 30–65 years. A 12-week, double-blind, randomized controlled trial was conducted with 25 participants who applied the Tetrapeptide-68 (100 ppm) O/W formulation around the eyes. Skin physiological parameters were assessed at baseline, 4, 8, and 12 weeks. Participants also completed efficacy and usability questionnaires. Significant improvements in wrinkle reduction were observed with Tetrapeptide-68 cream treatment, as measured by various skin roughness parameters and 3D imaging analysis. Participants reported positive changes in skin texture and moisture levels, with no adverse reactions noted. Tetrapeptide-68 cream demonstrates promising anti-wrinkle effects, highlighting its potential as an effective ingredient in anti-aging skincare formulations. Further studies are recommended to explore its long-term benefits and underlying mechanisms. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Care Products for Healthy and Diseased Skin)
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14 pages, 346 KiB  
Article
Valorisation of Raspberry Seeds in Cosmetic Industry-Green Solutions
by Ivanka Ćirić, Dragana Dabić Zagorac, Milica Sredojević, Milica Fotirić Akšić, Biljana Rabrenović, Stevan Blagojević and Maja Natić
Pharmaceutics 2024, 16(5), 606; https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics16050606 - 29 Apr 2024
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 2390
Abstract
The fruit processing industry generates large quantities of by-products well known to be rich in bioactive compounds with numerous nutritional properties and beneficial effects for human health. We developed a strategy to valorise raspberry seeds and obtain valuable ingredients with potential application in [...] Read more.
The fruit processing industry generates large quantities of by-products well known to be rich in bioactive compounds with numerous nutritional properties and beneficial effects for human health. We developed a strategy to valorise raspberry seeds and obtain valuable ingredients with potential application in cosmetic skincare formulas. Cold press extraction technology was applied to extract oil, and the remaining defatted raspberry seed cake was treated with three proline based deep eutectic solvents (DES) to extract polyphenols. The most potent was proline/citric acid extract, with free and total ellagic acid content (52.4 mg/L and 86.4 mg/L), total phenolic content (TPC, 550.1 mg GAE/L) and radical scavenging activity (RSA, 4742.7 mmol TE/L). After the direct mixing of the extract and after encapsulation with starch as a carrier, the skincare emulsion and microemulsion were characterised by irritation potential (Zein test), transepidermal water loss (TEWL), red blood cell (RBC), and DPPH antioxidant test. The resulting preparations were of improved quality in comparison to the control hand cream, with a low skin irritation effect, lower TEWL, and higher antioxidant potential. This work complies with circular economy principles and green technology standards, and represents the efficient model on how to reuse natural resources through waste minimization. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Care Products for Healthy and Diseased Skin)
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Review

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25 pages, 2220 KiB  
Review
Flavonoids as Natural Anti-Inflammatory Agents in the Atopic Dermatitis Treatment
by Nurul Ain Zawawi, Haslina Ahmad, Rajesh Madatheri, Nur Izzah Md Fadilah, Manira Maarof and Mh Busra Fauzi
Pharmaceutics 2025, 17(2), 261; https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics17020261 - 15 Feb 2025
Viewed by 1582
Abstract
Eczema is a complex autoimmune condition characterised mainly by inflammation and skin lesions along with physical and psychological comorbidities. Although there have been significant advances in understanding the mechanisms behind atopic dermatitis, conventionally available treatments yield inconsistent results and have some unintended consequences. [...] Read more.
Eczema is a complex autoimmune condition characterised mainly by inflammation and skin lesions along with physical and psychological comorbidities. Although there have been significant advances in understanding the mechanisms behind atopic dermatitis, conventionally available treatments yield inconsistent results and have some unintended consequences. In today’s digital age, where knowledge is just a click away, natural-based supplements have been on the rise for a more “natural” treatment towards any type of disease. Natural compounds, particularly derived from medicinal plants, have piqued significant interest in the development of herbal remedies for chronic inflammatory skin conditions. Among many compounds, flavonoids have shown promise in treating eczema due to their strong anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-allergic properties, making them helpful in preventing allergic reactions, inflammation, and skin irritation. This review highlights the therapeutic potential of flavonoid-based bioactive compounds to manage eczema, emphasising the mechanisms of action. Additionally, providing a comprehensive analysis of the potential of emerging and established compounds, while bridging a gap between traditional and modern medicine. Flavonoids offer a variety of opportunities for further research and innovative formulations that can maximise its full benefits. Further combination of flavonoids with various approaches such as nanoencapsulation for enhanced bioavailability, hydrogel-based delivery systems for a controlled release, and additive manufacturing for personalised topical formulations, could align with future precision medicine needs. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Care Products for Healthy and Diseased Skin)
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26 pages, 2224 KiB  
Review
Mechanism, Formulation, and Efficacy Evaluation of Natural Products for Skin Pigmentation Treatment
by Xueli Peng, Yuning Ma, Chenxin Yan, Xiaocen Wei, Linlin Zhang, Hehe Jiang, Yuxia Ma, Suohui Zhang, Mengzhen Xing and Yunhua Gao
Pharmaceutics 2024, 16(8), 1022; https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics16081022 - 1 Aug 2024
Cited by 5 | Viewed by 4036
Abstract
Skin pigmentation typically arises from the excessive secretion and accumulation of melanin, resulting in a darker complexion compared to normal skin. Currently, the local application of chemical drugs is a first-line strategy for pigmentation disorders, but the safety and efficacy of drugs still [...] Read more.
Skin pigmentation typically arises from the excessive secretion and accumulation of melanin, resulting in a darker complexion compared to normal skin. Currently, the local application of chemical drugs is a first-line strategy for pigmentation disorders, but the safety and efficacy of drugs still cannot meet clinical treatment needs. For long-term and safe medication, researchers have paid attention to natural products with higher biocompatibility. This article begins by examining the pathogenesis and treatment approaches of skin pigmentation diseases and summarizes the research progress and mechanism of natural products with lightening or whitening effects that are clinically common or experimentally proven. Moreover, we outline the novel formulations of natural products in treating pigmentation disorders, including liposomes, nanoparticles, microemulsions, microneedles, and tocosomes. Finally, the pharmacodynamic evaluation methods in the study of pigmentation disorder were first systematically analyzed. In brief, this review aims to collect natural products for skin pigmentation treatment and investigate their formulation design and efficacy evaluation to provide insights for the development of new products for this complex skin disease. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Care Products for Healthy and Diseased Skin)
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54 pages, 3711 KiB  
Review
Liposomes and Other Nanocarriers for the Treatment of Acne Vulgaris: Improved Therapeutic Efficacy and Skin Tolerability
by Nina Dragicevic and Howard I. Maibach
Pharmaceutics 2024, 16(3), 309; https://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics16030309 - 22 Feb 2024
Cited by 4 | Viewed by 6622
Abstract
Acne vulgaris is a common dermatologic disorder that affects approximately 85% of teenagers, which significantly impacts the quality of life in adolescents. It is a chronic disease of the sebaceous follicles that is multifactorial in etiology. Topical treatment is the first choice for [...] Read more.
Acne vulgaris is a common dermatologic disorder that affects approximately 85% of teenagers, which significantly impacts the quality of life in adolescents. It is a chronic disease of the sebaceous follicles that is multifactorial in etiology. Topical treatment is the first choice for mild and moderate acne, while systemic therapy is reserved for severe and certain moderate cases. Topical treatments include retinoids (e.g., tretinoin and adapalene), antibiotics (e.g., clindamycine), and other agents (e.g., benzoyl peroxide and azelaic acid), often applied in combination. The mechanisms of action include antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and keratolytic activities, as well as sebum secretion reduction, and the normalization of follicular keratinization. However, these topical agents commonly induce side effects, such as dryness, burning, stinging, peeling, redness, erythema, and photosensitivity. Therefore, there is a need to reduce the side effects of anti-acne drugs, while maintaining or enhancing their therapeutic effectiveness. This article aims to comprehensively outline nanotechnology strategies, particularly the use of phospholipid-based nanocarriers like liposomes and related vesicles, to enhance therapeutic efficacy, skin tolerability, and patient compliance in the treatment of acne vulgaris. In addition, novel active ingredients encapsulated in vesicles beyond those recommended in official guidelines are discussed. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Skin Care Products for Healthy and Diseased Skin)
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