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Secondary Metabolites Extraction and/or Functionalization: from Industrial Co-product to Cosmetic Applications

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A special issue of Antioxidants (ISSN 2076-3921). This special issue belongs to the section "Extraction and Industrial Applications of Antioxidants".

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (20 August 2022) | Viewed by 42346

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Special Issue Editors

Dr. Irina Ioannou

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Guest Editor

URD Agro-Biotechnologies Industrielles (ABI), CEBB (Centre Européen de Biotechnologie et de Bioéconomie), AgroParisTech, 51110 Pomacle, France
Interests: green extraction; process engineering; modeling; antioxidant activity; antioxidants; biological activitiesphenolic compounds; biorefinery; agro-industrial by-products; ultrasound; microwave; supercritical CO₂
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Dr. Cédric Peyrot

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Co-Guest Editor

URD Industrial Agro-biotechnologies (ABI)-AgroParisTech, 51110 Pomacle, France
Interests: phenolics; UV filters; antioxidants; green chemistry; cosmetic; whitening agents; circular economy; biosourced; coproduct valorizations

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

Currently, consumers are increasingly favoring the replacement of petrochemical molecules by bio-based molecules. This is the case in many fields and especially in the cosmetic industry where renewable antioxidants, preservatives, dyes, and whitening agents are sought after. These compounds are present in varying amounts in several industrial co-products that are currently undervalued or not valued at all. The recovery of bioactive secondary metabolites from these co-products through eco-extraction processes appears to be a relevant recovery method. Subsequently, the extracts can be used or functionalized by green chemistry or enzymatic reactions. Thus, this Special Issue will present work related to (i) the implementation of eco-extraction, separation, and purification processes to obtain extracts rich in secondary metabolites with cosmetic properties, (ii) their functionalization by green chemistry or biocatalysis, and (iii) characterization of unknown native/modified secondary metabolites or extracts through techniques such as HPLC, MS, LC–MS, HPLC–MS, and NMR for cosmetic applications. On the contrary, if sources are already identified, chemical characterization is not required.

Dr. Irina Ioannou
Guest Editor

Dr. Cédric Peyrot
Co-Guest Editor

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Keywords

Industrial by-products
Cosmetic activities
Bioactivities
Eco-extraction processes
Purification processes
Green chemistry
Sustainable
Bio-based
Secondary metabolites

Published Papers (12 papers)

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Research

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16 pages, 6420 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Ultrasound-Assisted Aqueous Extraction of Chlorogenic Acid and Cynarin with the Impact of Inulin from Burdock (Arctium lappa L.) Roots

by Yuan Chen, Jing-Yi Su and Chun-Yao Yang

Antioxidants 2022, 11(7), 1219; https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox11071219 - 22 Jun 2022

Cited by 7 | Viewed by 1892

Abstract

The ultrasound-assisted aqueous extraction of chlorogenic acid (CGA) and cynarin with the impact of inulin from burdock (Arctium lappa L.) roots was investigated. Three extraction modes, ultrasound at 40 kHz/300 W (U-40), ultrasound at 120 kHz/300 W (U-120), and shaking at 120 rpm (S-120), were compared. The effects of process parameters on the extraction of polyphenols, CGA, cynarin, inulin, and antioxidant activity using U-40 were evaluated. In 10 min, 50 °C, and 1/30 (g/mL-water) of solid-to-liquid ratio, the order of CGA content in the dried burdock root powder (DBR) was U-40 (484.65 μg/g-DBR) > U-120 (369.93 μg/g-DBR) > S-120 (176.99 μg/g-DBR), while the order of cynarin content in DBR was U-120 (376.47 μg/g-DBR) > U-40 (341.54 μg/g-DBR) > S-120 (330.44 μg/g-DBR), showing the selective extraction of CGA and cynarin between using 40 and 120 kHz of ultrasound. The profiles of increase and then decrease in free CGA and cynarin concentrations against time revealed their degradation, including their interactions with the abundant inulin. The kinetic model, considering extraction followed by degradation, was proposed to describe the variations of free CGA and cynarin against time. This study provides an effective method using water to extract CGA, cynarin, and inulin from burdock roots. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Secondary Metabolites Extraction and/or Functionalization: from Industrial Co-product to Cosmetic Applications)

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13 pages, 2731 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Phenolic Compounds Extracted from Cherry Tree (Prunus avium) Branches: Impact of the Process on Cosmetic Properties

by Gaëlle Willig, Fanny Brunissen, Fanny Brunois, Blandine Godon, Christian Magro, Charles Monteux, Cédric Peyrot and Irina Ioannou

Antioxidants 2022, 11(5), 813; https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox11050813 - 22 Apr 2022

Cited by 7 | Viewed by 2432

Abstract

Cherry tree branches (Prunus avium var burlat Rosaceae) are agricultural by-products that are often neglected, yet they are rich in phenolic compounds and highly appreciated for their numerous biological activities. Extracts of cherry tree branches were evaluated for their use in cosmetics, particularly for their antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, and antimicrobial activities. Samples were obtained by accelerated solvent extraction (ASE) at different ethanol percentages and different temperatures. Fourteen phenolic compounds were identified in the extracts by mass spectrometry. Three major compounds were identified (catechin, genistin, and prunin) representing 84 wt% of the total phenolic compounds. Optimal operating conditions maximizing the content of phenolic compounds were determined using a one factor at a time (OFAT) approach (70% aqueous ethanol, 70 °C). The extract obtained under these conditions also showed the highest antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase activities, certainly due to a high catechin content. Although the antimicrobial activities of extracts are less versatile than those of synthetic molecules, they are nonetheless interesting. According to these results, the extracts of cherry tree branches could be used in cosmetics for their interesting properties. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Secondary Metabolites Extraction and/or Functionalization: from Industrial Co-product to Cosmetic Applications)

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19 pages, 2270 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Valorization of Juglans regia Leaves as Cosmeceutical Ingredients: Bioactivity Evaluation and Final Formulation Development

by Nermine Besrour, Taofiq Oludemi, Filipa Mandim, Carla Pereira, Maria Inês Dias, Marina Soković, Dejan Stojković, Olga Ferreira, Isabel C. F. R. Ferreira and Lillian Barros

Antioxidants 2022, 11(4), 677; https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox11040677 - 30 Mar 2022

Cited by 6 | Viewed by 2746

Abstract

The cosmetic industry is constantly searching for bioactive ingredients, namely, those obtained from natural sources with environmentally friendly connotations and less toxic effects. A previous study of our research group optimized the extraction of phenolic compounds from Juglans regia by heat-assisted extraction. Due to its richness in different phenolic compounds, the present work aimed to develop a formulation containing J. regia leaf extract. The extract’s antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, wound healing, cytotoxicity, and photostability properties were evaluated. The extract was then incorporated into an O/W base cream, followed by characterization of the final formulation in terms of its antioxidant properties, phenolic composition, and stability over time and at different storage conditions. The most abundant compounds in the hydroethanolic extract were 3-O-caffeoylquinic acid (18.30 ± 0.04 mg/g), quercetin-O-pentoside (9.64 ± 0.06 mg/g), and quercetin 3-O-glucoside (6.70 ± 0.19 mg/g). Besides those, the extract presented antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, wound closure, and antibacterial effects against several skin pathogens. In addition, HaCaT cell viability was maintained up to 98% at 400 µg/mL. Within Proteus vulgaris-infected HaCaT cells, the extract also presented an over 40% bacterial mortality rate at its nontoxic concentration (200 µg/mL). After incorporating the extract, the obtained formulation presented a good physicochemical profile over time and at different storage conditions while also maintaining its antioxidant effect; as such, it can be considered stable for topical application. Future work to evaluate its performance in terms of skin permeation and detailed toxicological studies with a focus on regulatory requirements, involving skin irritation, eye irritation, genotoxicity, photo-irritation, and dermal absorption, should be conducted, as the prepared formulation demonstrated relevant properties that deserve to be further explored. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Secondary Metabolites Extraction and/or Functionalization: from Industrial Co-product to Cosmetic Applications)

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19 pages, 1863 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Comparative Extraction of Phenolic Compounds from Olive Leaves Using a Sonotrode and an Ultrasonic Bath and the Evaluation of Both Antioxidant and Antimicrobial Activity

by Beatriz Martín-García, Soumi De Montijo-Prieto, Maria Jiménez-Valera, Alegría Carrasco-Pancorbo, Alfonso Ruiz-Bravo, Vito Verardo and Ana María Gómez-Caravaca

Antioxidants 2022, 11(3), 558; https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox11030558 - 15 Mar 2022

Cited by 27 | Viewed by 3946

Abstract

A sonotrode ultrasound-assisted extraction of phenolic compounds from olive leaves has been developed using a Box–Behnken design to optimize the effects of solvent composition and ultrasound parameters. The determination of single phenolic compounds was performed by HPLC–MS and the highest recovery in total compounds, oleuropein and hydroxytyrosol was achieved using EtOH/H₂O (55:45, v/v), 8 min and 100% of amplitude. The optimal conditions were applied on leaves from seven olive cultivars grown under the same conditions and the results were compared with those found by using a conventional ultrasonic bath, obtaining no statistical differences. Moreover, antioxidant activity by FRAP, DPPH and ABTS in these olive leaf extracts was evaluated and they exhibited a significant correlation with oleuropein and total phenolic content. All cultivars of olive leaf extracts were found to be active against S. aureus and methicillin-resistant S. aureus with minimum bactericidal concentration (MBC) values) that ranged from 5.5 to 22.5 mg mL⁻¹. No extracts showed antimicrobial activity against C. albicans. The percentages of mycelium reduction in B. cinerea ranged from 2.2 and 18.1%. Therefore, sonotrode could be considered as an efficient and fast extraction technique that could be easily scaled-up at industrial level, thus allowing for olive leaves to be revalorized. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Secondary Metabolites Extraction and/or Functionalization: from Industrial Co-product to Cosmetic Applications)

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20 pages, 2621 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Phytochemical Analysis and Dermo-Cosmetic Evaluation of Cymbidium sp. (Orchidaceae) Cultivation By-Products

by Evangelos Axiotis, Apostolis Angelis, Lemonia Antoniadi, Eleftherios A. Petrakis and Leandros A. Skaltsounis

Antioxidants 2022, 11(1), 101; https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox11010101 - 31 Dec 2021

Cited by 5 | Viewed by 2633

Abstract

Cymbidium is one of the most popular genera in Orchidaceae family, commercialized either as loose flowers or as potted plants in floriculture worldwide. The non-marketable parts are typically discarded (e.g., unsuitable flowers, leaves, pseudobulbs, roots), generating an enormous quantity of unutilized biomass. The above by-products were studied through phytochemical analysis and investigated for their dermo-cosmetic potential. The initial antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, anti-elastase, and anti-collagenase assays of the total extracts indicated that the pseudobulb and root ethyl acetate extracts were the most potent. Those extracts were then submitted to chromatographic separation leading to the isolation of 16 secondary metabolites (four phenanthrenes, three 1,4-phenanthrenquinones, three dibenzyls, two phenolic acid derivatives, two sterols, one dehydrodiconiferyl alcohol derivative, and one simple phenolic compound), including 6-hydroxy-5,7-dimethoxy-1,4-phenanthrenequinone (cymbisamoquinone), which was identified as a new natural product. In parallel, 48 metabolites were identified by UPLC-HRMS analysis of the extracts. The biological evaluation of the isolated compounds revealed that gigantol and tristin present important anti-tyrosinase activity, while bulbophyllanthrin, 3-hydroxy-2,4,7-trimethoxy-phenanthrene, marylaurencinol A, 5-hydroxy-2-methoxy-1,4-phenanthrenequinone, and ephemeranthroquinone B show dose-dependent anti-collagenase activity. In contrast to isolated metabolites, which may act selectively on specific enzymes, the initial total extracts exhibited inhibitory activity against tyrosinase, elastase, and collagenase enzymes, thus showing better prospects for use in dermo-cosmetic formulations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Secondary Metabolites Extraction and/or Functionalization: from Industrial Co-product to Cosmetic Applications)

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19 pages, 1393 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Concentration of Antioxidant Compounds from Calendula officinalis through Sustainable Supercritical Technologies, and Computational Study of Their Permeability in Skin for Cosmetic Use

by Raquel Mur, Elisa Langa, M. Rosa Pino-Otín, José S. Urieta and Ana M. Mainar

Antioxidants 2022, 11(1), 96; https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox11010096 - 30 Dec 2021

Cited by 2 | Viewed by 3236

Abstract

The growing interest in the cosmetic industry in using compounds of natural and sustainable origin that are safe for humans is encouraging the development of processes that can satisfy these needs. Chlorogenic acid (CHA), caffeic acid (CAF) and ferulic acid (FA) are three compounds widely used within the cosmetic industry due to their functionalities as antioxidants, collagen modifiers or even as radiation protectors. In this work, two advanced separation techniques with supercritical CO₂ are used to obtain these three compounds from Calendula officinalis, and these are then evaluated using a computational skin permeability model. This model is encompassed by the COSMO-RS model, the calculations of which make it possible to study the behaviour of the compounds in the epidermis. The results show that both CAF and FA are retained in the stratum corneum, while CHA manages to penetrate to the stratum spinosum. These compounds were concentrated by antisolvent fractionation with super-critical CO₂ using a Response Surface Methodology to study the effect of pressure and CO₂ flow rate. CHA, CAF and FA were completely retained in the precipitation vessel, with concentrations between 40% and 70% greater than in the original extract. The conditions predicted that the optimal overall yield and enrichment achieved would be 153 bar and 42 g/min. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Secondary Metabolites Extraction and/or Functionalization: from Industrial Co-product to Cosmetic Applications)

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22 pages, 26160 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Ultrasound-Assisted “Green” Extraction (UAE) of Antioxidant Compounds (Betalains and Phenolics) from Opuntia stricta var. Dilenii’s Fruits: Optimization and Biological Activities

by Iván Gómez-López, Gloria Lobo-Rodrigo, María P. Portillo and M. Pilar Cano

Antioxidants 2021, 10(11), 1786; https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox10111786 - 8 Nov 2021

Cited by 10 | Viewed by 3393

Abstract

Opuntia stricta var. Dillenii’s prickly pears are an underutilized fruit with a high content of betalains and phenolic compounds that could bring potential health benefits for humans. The aim of this study is the optimization of the “green” extraction of betalains and phenolic compounds from Opuntia stricta var. Dillenii’s whole fruits by ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE), using a response surface methodology (RSM) by a central composite design (CCD) in order to obtain extracts rich in betalains and phenolic compounds with proven biological activities. For UAE optimization, the extraction temperature (20–50 °C), the amplitude (20–50%) and the ethanol volume in extraction solvent (15–80%, v/v) were selected as independent variables. All combinations were conducted at 2, 5, 10, 20 and 30 min to determinate the time effect. The betalain and phenolic compound content in Opuntia stricta var. Dillenii’s whole fruits and UAE extracts were identified by HPLC-DAD-ESI/MS and HPLC-DAD-MS/QTOF and the antioxidant (ORAC method) and the anti-inflammatory (hyaluronidase inhibition method) in vitro biological activities also were determined. The most efficient extraction time was 5 min and the best UAE parameter combination was 50% amplitude, 15% ethanol in solvent (ethanol/water, 15/85, v/v) and 20 °C temperature, obtaining 10.06 ± 0.10 mg of total major betalains/g dry weight, 2.32 ± 0.08 mg of piscidic acid/g dry weight and 0.38 ± 0.00 mg of total major flavonoids/g dry weight. All applied UAE combinations significantly improved the in vitro bioactive activities (antioxidant and anti-inflammatory) of the Opuntia stricta var. Dillenii’s extracts compared to the bioactivities of the extracts obtained by standard homogenization processes. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Secondary Metabolites Extraction and/or Functionalization: from Industrial Co-product to Cosmetic Applications)

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19 pages, 1512 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Optimization of Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction of Bioactive Compounds from Acacia Seyal Gum Using Response Surface Methodology and Their Chemical Content Identification by Raman, FTIR, and GC-TOFMS

by Tahani Maher, Nassereldeen A. Kabbashi, Mohamed E. S. Mirghani, Md Z. Alam, Djabir Daddiouaissa, Ferid Abdulhafiz, Mohd Farhan Hanif Reduan, Jihad I. Omran, Mohammad Khairul Azhar Abdul Razab and Arifullah Mohammed

Antioxidants 2021, 10(10), 1612; https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox10101612 - 13 Oct 2021

Cited by 14 | Viewed by 3742

Abstract

Acacia Seyal gum (ASG), also known as gum Arabic, is an antioxidant-rich soluble fiber. ASG has been reported to have many biological activities, including anticancer, antidiabetic, antiulcer, and immunomodulatory activity. Extraction of bioactive compounds from ASG is commonly performed using conventional extraction methods. However, these techniques have certain limitation in terms of extraction time, energy, and solvent requirements. Ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) could be used as an alternative technique to extract bioactive compounds in less time, at low temperature, and with less energy and solvent requirements. In this study, the UAE extraction of ASG was optimized using response surface methodology (RSM). A face-centered central composite design (FCCCD) was used to monitor the effect of different independent factors of ultrasound operation (sonication time, temperature, and solvent ratio) on ASG extraction yield. In addition, screening and characterization of phytochemicals in 60% ethanol ASG extract was carried out using Raman microscopy, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), and gas chromatography time-of-flight mass spectroscopy (GC-TOFMS) analysis. The results indicated that, under optimal conditions (extraction time 45 min, extraction temperature 40 °C, and solid–liquid ratio of 1:25 g/mL), the yield of ASG was 75.87% ± 0.10. This yield was reasonably close to the predicted yield of 75.39% suggested by the design of experiment. The ANOVA revealed that the model was highly significant due to the low probability value (p < 0.0001). Raman spectrum fingerprint detected polysaccharides, such as galactose and glucose, and protein like lysine and proline, while FTIR spectrum revealed the presence of functional groups peaks value of alkanes, aldehydes, aliphatic amines, and phenol. GC-TOFMS spectroscopic detected the presence of strong d-galactopyranose, carotenoid, and lycopene antioxidant compounds. In conclusion, this study demonstrated that the UAE technique is an efficient method to achieve a high yield of ASG extracts. The selected model is adequate to optimize the extraction of several chemical compounds reported in this study. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Secondary Metabolites Extraction and/or Functionalization: from Industrial Co-product to Cosmetic Applications)

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12 pages, 2925 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Anti-Wrinkle Effect of Isatis indigotica Leaf Extract: Evaluation of Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammation, and Clinical Activity

by Jin Hyeok Kim, Dan Gao, Won Seok Jeong, Cheong Taek Kim, Chong Woon Cho, Hyung Min Kim and Jong Seong Kang

Antioxidants 2021, 10(9), 1339; https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox10091339 - 25 Aug 2021

Cited by 12 | Viewed by 4411

Abstract

Isatis indigotica leaf is an oriental herbal medicine that has been known for various pharmacological effects. However, its anti-wrinkle activity has not been fully evaluated. Therefore, we evaluated the anti-wrinkle effect of I. indigotica leaf extract on human skin. The purified extract inhibited 85.4% of 2,2-diphenyl-1-1picrylhydrazyl and 72.2% of 2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt radicals at a concentration of 1 mg/mL. Nitrite production was reduced by 30% after treatment with 50 μg/mL of extract. Three fractions from the extract downregulated the mRNA expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 and -3 and upregulated the expression of interleukin 4. Among the three fractions, fraction 2 exhibited the highest activity. The major component of the extract was identified as 3,4,5-trimethoxycinnamic acid by liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry. Molecular docking was conducted to predict the binding mechanism of 3,4,5-trimethoxycinnamic with matrix metalloproteinase-1 and -3, and their binding energies were −5.20 and −4.89 kcal/mol, respectively. In a clinical trial, five roughness values of visiometer and visual score were significantly reduced in treated groups compared with the placebo group after 8 weeks. I. indigotica leaf extract inhibits wrinkle formation, and could be a potential anti-wrinkle agent. This is the first clinical trial demonstrating its anti-wrinkle activity. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Secondary Metabolites Extraction and/or Functionalization: from Industrial Co-product to Cosmetic Applications)

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8 pages, 729 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Biocatalyzed Flow Oxidation of Tyrosol to Hydroxytyrosol and Efficient Production of Their Acetate Esters

by Francesca Annunziata, Martina L. Contente, Cecilia Pinna, Lucia Tamborini and Andrea Pinto

Antioxidants 2021, 10(7), 1142; https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox10071142 - 19 Jul 2021

Cited by 18 | Viewed by 3415

Abstract

Tyrosol (Ty) and hydroxytyrosol (HTy) are valuable dietary phenolic compounds present in olive oil and wine, widely used for food, nutraceutical and cosmetic applications. Ty and HTy are endowed with a number of health-related biological activities, including antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. In this work, we developed a sustainable, biocatalyzed flow protocol for the chemo- and regio-selective oxidation of Ty into HTy catalyzed by free tyrosinase from Agaricus bisporus in a gas/liquid biphasic system. The aqueous flow stream was then in-line extracted to recirculate the water medium containing the biocatalyst and the excess ascorbic acid, thus improving the cost-efficiency of the process and creating a self-sufficient closed-loop system. The organic layer was purified in-line through a catch-and-release procedure using supported boronic acid that was able to trap HTy and leave the unreacted Ty in solution. Moreover, the acetate derivatives (TyAc and HTyAc) were produced by exploiting a bioreactor packed with an immobilized acyltransferase from Mycobacterium smegmatis (MsAcT), able to selectively act on the primary alcohol. Under optimized conditions, high-value HTy was obtained in 75% yield, whereas TyAc and HTyAc were isolated in yields of up to 80% in only 10 min of residence time. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Secondary Metabolites Extraction and/or Functionalization: from Industrial Co-product to Cosmetic Applications)

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20 pages, 1460 KiB

Open AccessArticle

Development and Optimisation of Solid-Phase Extraction of Extractable and Bound Phenolic Acids in Spelt (Triticum spelta L.) Seeds

by Marjeta Mencin, Maja Mikulic-Petkovsek, Robert Veberič and Petra Terpinc

Antioxidants 2021, 10(7), 1085; https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox10071085 - 5 Jul 2021

Cited by 7 | Viewed by 3092

Abstract

A solid-phase extraction (SPE) technique was developed and optimised for isolation and concentration of extractable and bound phenolic acids from germinated spelt seeds, for analysis by liquid chromatography–mass spectrometry. Samples initially underwent solvent extraction under different conditions to maximise the yield of phenolic antioxidants. Optimal extraction conditions for extractable phenolics were absolute methanol as solvent, sample-to-methanol ratio 1:9, and reconstitution in non-acidified water. The bound phenolics were extracted from sample pellets using hydrolysis with 2 M NaOH, acidification of the hydrolysate with formic acid, and simultaneous isolation and purification using Strata X polymeric RP tubes. Compared to liquid-liquid extraction, this direct SPE protocol has significant advantages in terms of higher extraction efficiencies of total and individual phenolics and their antioxidant activities. These data suggest that direct SPE represents a rapid and reliable method for quantitative analysis of both the extractable and the commonly overlooked bound phenolics in Triticum spelta seeds. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Secondary Metabolites Extraction and/or Functionalization: from Industrial Co-product to Cosmetic Applications)

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Review

Jump to: Research

37 pages, 1675 KiB

Open AccessReview

Cosmeceutical Potential of Major Tropical and Subtropical Fruit By-Products for a Sustainable Revalorization

by Abigail García-Villegas, Alejandro Rojas-García, María del Carmen Villegas-Aguilar, Patricia Fernández-Moreno, Álvaro Fernández-Ochoa, María de la Luz Cádiz-Gurrea, David Arráez-Román and Antonio Segura-Carretero

Antioxidants 2022, 11(2), 203; https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox11020203 - 21 Jan 2022

Cited by 17 | Viewed by 5488

Abstract

The increasing production of tropical fruits followed by their processing results in tons of waste, such as skins or seeds. However, these by-products have been reported to be rich in bioactive compounds (BACs) with excellent properties of interest in the cosmeceutical industry: antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and photoprotective properties. This review summarizes the tropical fruits most produced worldwide, their bioactive composition and the most important and studied therapeutic properties that their by-products can contribute to skin health, as well as the different approaches for obtaining these compounds using techniques by conventional (Soxhlet, liquid-liquid extraction or maceration) and non-conventional extractions (supercritical fluid extraction (SFE), ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE), microwave-assisted extraction (MAE), pressurized liquid extraction (PLE) and two-phase aqueous system), followed by their identification by HPLC-MS or GC-MS analysis. Moreover, this work encompasses several studies that may prove the effects of seeds and skins from tropical fruits against oxidative stress, hyperpigmentation, acne, aging or UV radiation. Therefore, the investigation of functional components present in tropical fruit by-products under a circular bioeconomy model could be of great interest for the cosmeceutical industry and a very promising option for obtaining new cosmeceutical formulations. Full article

(This article belongs to the Special Issue Secondary Metabolites Extraction and/or Functionalization: from Industrial Co-product to Cosmetic Applications)

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